Protective effect of dietary Alchemilla mollis on UVB-irradiated premature skin aging through regulation of transcription factor NFATc1 and Nrf2/ARE pathways

α-Arbutin ameliorates UVA-induced photoaging through regulation of the SIRT3/PGC-1α pathway

Owing to its tyrosinase inhibitory activity, α-arbutin has been added to several skin care products as a skin-lightening agent. However, the protective effect of α-arbutin against ultraviolet A (UVA)-induced photoaging has not been well investigated. The present study was designed to investigate the photoprotective effect and mechanism of α-arbutin against UVA-induced photoaging. In vitro experiments, HaCaT cells were treated with UVA at a dose of 3 J/cm2 to evaluate the anti-photoaging effect of α-arbutin. α-Arbutin was found to exhibit a strong antioxidant effect by increasing glutathione (GSH) level and inhibiting reactive oxygen species (ROS) production. Meanwhile, α-arbutin markedly improved the expression of sirtuin 3 (SIRT3) and peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor γ coactivator 1 α (PGC-1α) proteins, initiating downstream signaling to increase mitochondrial membrane potential and mediate mitochondrial biogenesis, and improve mitochondrial structure significantly. In vivo analysis, the mice with shaved back hair were irradiated with a cumulative UVA dose of 10 J/cm2 and a cumulative ultraviolet B (UVB) dose of 0.63 J/cm2. The animal experiments demonstrated that α-arbutin increased the expression of SIRT3 and PGC-1α proteins in the back skin of mice, thereby reducing UV-induced skin damage. In conclusion, α-arbutin protects HaCaT cells and mice from UVA damage by regulating SIRT3/PGC-1α signaling pathway.

Preventive and Therapeutic Benefits of Natural Ingredients in Photo-Induced Epidermal Dysfunction

BACKGROUND

The skin, particularly the epidermis, is subjected to various external stresses, including ultraviolet (UV) irradiation. UV irradiation, mainly UVB at wavelength of 280-315 nm, can alter several epidermal functions, including cutaneous inflammation, epidermal hyperproliferation, DNA damage, disruption of epidermal permeability barrier and reduction in stratum corneum hydration levels. Because of the negative impacts of UVB irradiation on epidermal functions, great efforts have been made to develop regimens for the protection of alterations in epidermal function induced by UV irradiation.

SUMMARY

While sunscreen can provide physical barrier to UV light, some natural ingredients can also effectively protect the skin from UVB irradiation-induced damages. Studies have demonstrated that either topical or oral administrations of some natural ingredients attenuate UVB irradiation-induced alterations in the epidermal function. The underlying mechanisms by which natural ingredients improve epidermal functions are attributable to antioxidation, stimulation of keratinocyte differentiation, increases in the content of epidermal natural moisturizers and inhibition of inflammation.

KEY MESSAGE

Some natural ingredients exhibit protective and therapeutical benefits in photo-induced epidermal dysfunctions via divergent mechanisms.

A review of the traditional uses, phytochemistry, pharmacology, and clinical evidence for the use of the genus Alchemilla (Rosaceae)

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The genus Alchemilla L. (lady's mantle) comprises 1000 species, of which more than 300 have been characterized from Europe. Notably, as folk medicines, Alchemilla species have long been prescribed for the treatment of dysmenorrhea, pruritus vulvae, menopausal complaints, and related diseases in women. This review summarizes the traditional uses, highlights promising plant species, and focuses on phytochemical and biological studies to highlight future areas of research.

AIM OF THE REVIEW

This literature review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of Alchemilla species, covering their botany, traditional uses, phytochemistry, and biological and pharmacological activities, and to summarize the current research status to better understand the application value of Alchemilla plants in modern phytotherapy.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The search strategy utilized the major thematic platforms Reaxys, Web of Science, Google Scholar, Scopus, ScienceDirect, PubMed, the USDA Plant Database and Kew Science (Royal Botanic Gardens) and was performed with the term Alchemilla. These platforms were systematically searched for articles published from 1960 to 2023.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Alchemilla species, as members of the Rosaceae family, produce tannins, phenolic acids, flavonoids, anthocyanins, coumarins, triterpenes and violet compounds. Effort has been made with this comprehensive review of Alchemilla plants to highlight the recent developments and milestones achieved in modern phytochemistry and phytotherapy, underlaying a broad spectrum of the activities of these plants, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, neuroprotective, antimicrobial, antiobesity, cardiovascular, anticancer, and wound healing effects.

CONCLUSIONS

An increasing number of studies on the plants in the Alchemilla genus have provided data about the main constituents and their importance in modern medicine. Both in vitro and in vivo studies have indicated that Alchemilla plants possess an extensive spectrum of biological activities. Regardless of the remarkable medical potential of Alchemilla extracts, clinical studies are limited and need to be performed to produce safer and less expensive plant-based drugs.

Live-cell imaging Unveils stimulus-specific dynamics of Nrf2 activation in UV-exposed melanoma cells: Implications for antioxidant compound screening

The transcription factor Nuclear factor e2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) is pivotal in orchestrating cellular antioxidant defense mechanisms, particularly in skin cells exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and electrophilic phytochemicals. To comprehensively investigate Nrf2's role in maintaining cellular redox equilibrium following UV-induced stress, we engineered a novel Nrf2 fusion-based reporter system for real-time, live-cell quantification of Nrf2 activity in human melanoma cells. Utilizing live quantitative imaging, we dissected the kinetic profiles of Nrf2 activation in response to an array of stimuli, including UVA and UVB radiation, as well as a broad spectrum of phytochemicals including ferulic acid, gallic acid, hispidulin, p-coumaric acid, quercetin, resveratrol, tannic acid, and vanillic acid as well as well-known Nrf2 inducers, tert-butylhydroquinone (tBHQ) and sulforaphane (SFN). Intriguingly, we observed distinct dynamical patterns of Nrf2 activity contingent on the specific stimuli applied. Sustained activation of Nrf2 was empirically correlated with the increased antioxidant response element (ARE) activity. Our findings demonstrate the nuanced impact of different phenolic compounds on Nrf2 activity and the utility of our Nrf2-CTΔ16-YFP reporter in characterizing the dynamics of Nrf2 translocation in response to diverse stimuli. In summary, our innovative reporter system not only revealed compounds capable of modulating UVA-induced Nrf2 activity but also showcased its utility as a robust tool for future antioxidant compound screening efforts.

Anti-Photoaging Effect of Phaseolus angularis L. Extract on UVB-Exposed HaCaT Keratinocytes and Possibilities as Cosmetic Materials

Phaseolus angularis L. is widely cultivated and is considered a superfood because of its nutritious protein and starch contents. Nevertheless, P. angularis's effects on skin photoaging are unknown. The aim of this study was to research the effects of P. angularis seed extract (PASE) on photoaging in human keratinocytes (HaCaT) damaged by UVB radiation so as to find out whether PASE can be used as an effective anti-photoaging ingredient in cosmetic products. The antioxidant activities were assessed using 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2'-azino-bis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline)-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) radical scavenging, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) assays. Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) analysis was used to determine the change in matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, and MMP-3. The protein levels of mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein (AP)-1, transforming growth factor beta (TGF)-β/suppressor of mothers against decapentaplegic (Smad), and NF-E2-related factor (Nrf)2/antioxidant response element (ARE) were measured by western blot. As a result, PASE increased DPPH and ABTS antioxidant activities in a dose-dependent manner. Additionally, PASE treatment (100 µg/mL) significantly reverted the damage induced by UVB (125 mJ/cm²) irradiation by downregulating ROS, matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, and MMP-3 secretion and expression and increasing procollagen type I production. To suppress MMP-1 and MMP-3 secretion, PASE significantly decreased UVB-induced p38 and JNK phosphorylation and phosphorylated c-Fos and c-Jun nuclear translocation. PASE promoted collagen I production by inhibiting UVB-induced TGF-β activation and Smad7 overexpression; antioxidant properties also arose from the stimulation of the Nrf2-dependent expression of the antioxidant enzymes heme oxygenase (HO)-1 and quinone oxidoreductase (NQO)-1. Our data demonstrated that PASE has the potential to prevent ROS formation induced by UVB exposure by targeting specific pathways. Thus, PASE might be a potent anti-photoaging component to exploit in developing anti-aging products.

Mechanism of action and therapeutic effects of oxidative stress and stem cell-based materials in skin aging: Current evidence and future perspectives

Aging is associated with multiple degenerative diseases, including atherosclerosis, osteoporosis, and Alzheimer's disease. As the most intuitive manifestation of aging, skin aging has received the most significant attention. Skin aging results from various intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Aged skin is characterized by wrinkles, laxity, elastosis, telangiectasia, and aberrant pigmentation. The underlying mechanism is complex and may involve cellular senescence, DNA damage, oxidative stress (OS), inflammation, and genetic mutations, among other factors. Among them, OS plays an important role in skin aging, and multiple antioxidants (e.g., vitamin C, glutathione, and melatonin) are considered to promote skin rejuvenation. In addition, stem cells that exhibit self-replication, multi-directional differentiation, and a strong paracrine function can exert anti-aging effects by inhibiting OS. With the further development of stem cell technology, treatments related to OS mitigation and involving stem cell use may have a promising future in anti-skin aging therapy.

Recent Advances in Herbal-Derived Products with Skin Anti-Aging Properties and Cosmetic Applications

Although aesthetic benefits are a desirable effect of the treatment of skin aging, it is also important in controlling several skin diseases, mainly in aged people. The development of new dermocosmetics has rapidly increased due to consumers' demand for non-invasive products with lower adverse effects than those currently available on the market. Natural compounds of plant origin and herbal-derived formulations have been popularized due to their various safe active products, which act through different mechanisms of action on several signaling pathways for skin aging. Based on this, the aim of the review was to identify the recent advances in herbal-derived product research, including herbal formulations and isolated compounds with skin anti-aging properties. The studies evaluated the biological effects of herbal-derived products in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies, highlighting the effects that were reported in clinical trials with available pharmacodynamics data that support their protective effects to treat, prevent, or control human skin aging. Thus, it was possible to identify that gallic and ferulic acids and herbal formulations containing Thymus vulgaris, Panax ginseng, Triticum aestivum, or Andrographis paniculata are the most promising natural products for the development of new dermocosmetics with skin anti-aging properties.

Phenolic Composition and Antioxidant Activity of Alchemilla Species

The genus Alchemilla, belonging to the Rosaceae family, is a rich source of interesting secondary metabolites, including mainly flavonoids, tannins, and phenolic acids, which display a variety of biological activities, such as anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant. Alchemilla species are used in traditional medicine for treatment of acute diarrhea, wounds, dysmenorrhea, and menorrhagia. In this review, we focus on the phenolic compound composition and antioxidative activity of Alchemilla species. We can assume that phytomedicine and natural products chemistry are of significant importance due to the fact that extract combinations with various bioactive compounds possess the activity to protect the human body rather than disturb damaging factors.

Antiphotoaging Effects of Damiana (Turnera diffusa) Leaves Extract via Regulation AP-1 and Nrf2/ARE Signaling Pathways

Damiana (Turnera diffusa), of the family Passifloraceae, has been widely studied for its pharmacological effects, especially for antioxidant and antibacterial actions. However, there are limited scientific findings describing its antiphotoaging effects on the skin. In the present study, the underlying molecular mechanisms of the protective effect of Damiana were investigated in keratinocytes (HaCaTs) and normal human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) subject to UVB irradiation. The mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and procollagen type I was determined by reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction. The protein expression of antiphotoaging-related signaling molecules in the activator protein-1 (AP-1) and nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (NRF2)/antioxidant response element (ARE) pathways was assessed by Western blotting. We observed that Damiana blocked the upregulated production of reactive oxygen species induced in UVB-irradiated HaCaTs and HDFs in a dose-dependent manner. Treatment with Damiana also significantly ameliorated the mRNA expression of MMPs and procollagen type I. In addition, the phosphorylation level of c-Jun and c-Fos was also decreased through the attenuated expression of p-38, p-ERK, and p-JNK after treatment with Damiana. Furthermore, the treatment of cells with Damiana resulted in the inhibition of Smad-7 expression in the TGF-β/Smad pathway and upregulated the expression of the Nrf2/ARE signaling pathway. Hence, the synthesis of procollagen type I, a precursor of collagen I, was promoted. Collectively, these results provide us with the novel insight that Damiana is a potential source of antiphotoaging compounds.

Role of Phytochemicals in Skin Photoprotection via Regulation of Nrf2

Ethnopharmacological studies have become increasingly valuable in the development of botanical products and their bioactive phytochemicals as novel and effective preventive and therapeutic strategies for various diseases including skin photoaging and photodamage-related skin problems including abnormal pigmentation and inflammation. Exploring the roles of phytochemicals in mitigating ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced skin damage is thus of importance to offer insights into medicinal and ethnopharmacological potential for development of novel and effective photoprotective agents. UVR plays a role in the skin premature aging (or photoaging) or impaired skin integrity and function through triggering various biological responses of skin cells including apoptosis, oxidative stress, DNA damage and inflammation. In addition, melanin produced by epidermal melanocytes play a protective role against UVR-induced skin damage and therefore hyperpigmentation mediated by UV irradiation could reflect a sign of defensive response of the skin to stress. However, alteration in melanin synthesis may be implicated in skin damage, particularly in individuals with fair skin. Oxidative stress induced by UVR contributes to the process of skin aging and inflammation through the activation of related signaling pathways such as the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein-1 (AP-1), the phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K)/protein kinase B (Akt), the nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) and the signal transducer and activator of transcription (STAT) in epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts. ROS formation induced by UVR also plays a role in regulation of melanogenesis in melanocytes via modulating MAPK, PI3K/Akt and the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R)-microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) signaling cascades. Additionally, nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)-regulated antioxidant defenses can affect the major signaling pathways involved in regulation of photoaging, inflammation associated with skin barrier dysfunction and melanogenesis. This review thus highlights the roles of phytochemicals potentially acting as Nrf2 inducers in improving photoaging, inflammation and hyperpigmentation via regulation of cellular homeostasis involved in skin integrity and function. Taken together, understanding the role of phytochemicals targeting Nrf2 in photoprotection could provide an insight into potential development of natural products as a promising strategy to delay skin photoaging and improve skin conditions.

Protective effects of gallocatechin gallate against ultraviolet B induced skin damages in hairless mice

Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) has the effect to protect skin from ultraviolet B (UVB) induced damages, but it is unstable under ambient conditions, being susceptible to become brown in color. Gallocatechin gallate (GCG), an epimer counterpart of EGCG, is more stable chemically than EGCG. The potential effects of GCG against UVB-induced skin damages has not been available. The objective of this study was to investigate the protective effects of GCG against UVB-induced skin photodamages. GCG was topically applied on the skin of hairless mice at three dosage levels (LL, 12.5 mg/mL; ML 25 mg/mL; HL, 50 mg/mL), with EGCG and a commercially available baby sunscreen lotion SPF50 PA⁺⁺⁺ as control. The mice were then irradiated by UVB (fluence rate 1.7 µmol/m² s) for 45 min. The treatments were carried out once a day for 6 consecutive days. Skin measurements and histological studies were performed at the end of experiment. The results show that GCG treatments at ML and HL levels inhibited the increase in levels of skin oil and pigmentation induced by UVB irradiation, and improved the skin elasticity and collagen fibers. GCG at ML and HL levels inhibited the formation of melanosomes and aberrations in mitochondria of UVB-irradiated skin in hairless mice. It is concluded that GCG protected skin from UVB-induced photodamages by improving skin elasticity and collagen fibers, and inhibiting aberrations in mitochondria and formation of melanosomes.

miRNA and lncRNA Expression Networks Modulate Cell Cycle and DNA Repair Inhibition in Senescent Prostate Cells

Cellular senescence is a state of permanent growth arrest that arises once cells reach the limit of their proliferative capacity. It creates an inflammatory microenvironment favouring the initiation and progression of various age-related diseases, including prostate cancer. Non-coding RNAs (ncRNAs) have emerged as important regulators of cellular gene expression. Nonetheless, very little is known about the interplay of microRNAs (miRNAs) and long non-coding RNAs (lncRNAs) and how deregulation of ncRNA networks promotes cellular senescence. To investigate this, human prostate epithelial cells were cultured through different passages until senescent, and their RNA was extracted and sequenced using RNA sequencing (RNAseq) and microRNA sequencing (miRNA-seq) miRNAseq. Differential expression (DE) gene analysis was performed to compare senescent and proliferating cells with Limma, miRNA-target interactions with multiMiR, lncRNA-target interactions using TCGA data and network evaluation with miRmapper. We found that miR-335-3p, miR-543 and the lncRNAs H19 and SMIM10L2A all play central roles in the regulation of cell cycle and DNA repair processes. Expression of most genes belonging to these pathways were down-regulated by senescence. Using the concept of network centrality, we determined the top 10 miRNAs and lncRNAs, with miR-335-3p and H19 identified as the biggest hubs for miRNAs and lncRNA respectively. These ncRNAs regulate key genes belonging to pathways involved in cell senescence and prostate cancer demonstrating their central role in these processes and opening the possibility for their use as biomarkers or therapeutic targets to mitigate against prostate ageing and carcinogenesis.

Luteolin Prevents UVB-Induced Skin Photoaging Damage by Modulating SIRT3/ROS/MAPK Signaling: An in vitro and in vivo Studies

The aim of this study was to investigate the role of luteolin in the mechanism of ultraviolet radiation B (UVB)-induced photoaging. An in vivo photoaging model was established using UVB irradiation of bare skin on the back of rats, and an in vitro photoaging model was established using UVB irradiation of human dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Skin damage was observed using hematoxylin-eosin (HE) and Masson staining, skin and cellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels were detected by DHE and DCF fluorescent probes, mitochondrial membrane potential was detected by JC-1 staining, and protein expressions were detected by immunofluorescence and Western Blot. Results from animal experiments showed that luteolin reduced UVB-induced erythema and wrinkle formation. Results from cellular assays showed that luteolin inhibited UVB-induced decrease in cell viability. In addition, in vitro and in vivo experiments showed that luteolin reduced oxidative stress levels, decreased activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and increased collagen expression. Continued cellular experiments using 3-TYP, an inhibitor of Sirtuin 3 (SIRT3), revealed a loss of cellular protection by luteolin and a decrease in collagen, suggesting that luteolin acts by targeting and promoting SIRT3. luteolin is involved in the protection of skin cells against UVB radiation-induced ageing via the SIRT3/ROS/mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK) axis and it may be a promising therapeutic agent for the prevention of UVB photoaging.

Anti-Adipogenic Effect of Alchemilla monticola is Mediated Via PI3K/AKT Signaling Inhibition in Human Adipocytes

Obesity is a persistent and continuously expanding social health concern. Excessive fat mass accumulation is associated with increased risk of chronic diseases including diabetes, atherosclerosis, non-alcoholic steatohepatitis, reproductive dysfunctions and certain types of cancer. Alchemilla monticola Opiz. is a perennial plant of the Rosaceae family traditionally used to treat inflammatory conditions and as a component of weight loss herbal mixtures. In the search for bioactive leads with potential anti-adipogenic effect from A. monticola extract (ALM), we have employed nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) based metabolomics to obtain data for the phytochemical profile of the extract. Further, molecular docking simulation was performed against key adipogenic targets for selected pure compounds, present in the ALM extract. Evaluation of the biological activity was done in human adipocytes exposed to ALM (5, 10 and 25 μg/ml), pure astragalin (AST) or quercitrin (QUE) both at the concentrations of 5, 10 and 25 μM. Investigation of the molecular pathways involved was performed through real-time quantitative PCR and Western blot analyses. According to the docking predictions strong putative affinity was revealed for both AST and QUE towards peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor gamma (PPARγ) and phosphoinositide 3-kinase (PI3K). Assessment of the intracellular lipid accumulation revealed anti-adipogenic activity of ALM. Correspondingly, the expression of the adipogenic genes CCAAT/enhancer-binding protein alpha (CEBPA) and PPARG was downregulated upon ALM and AST treatment. The Western blotting results exposed protein kinase B (AKT), PI3K and PPARγ as targets for the inhibitory effect of ALM and AST on adipogenesis. Collectively, we provide a broader insight of the phytochemical composition of A. monticola. Additionally, we demonstrate the anti-adipogenic effect of ALM and its active compound AST in human adipocytes. Furthermore, PI3K/AKT signaling pathway is identified to mediate the ALM anti-adipogenic action. Hence, the ALM extract and its secondary metabolite AST are worth further exploration as potentially active agents in obesity management.

Anti-Wrinkle Effect of Isatis indigotica Leaf Extract: Evaluation of Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammation, and Clinical Activity

Isatis indigotica leaf is an oriental herbal medicine that has been known for various pharmacological effects. However, its anti-wrinkle activity has not been fully evaluated. Therefore, we evaluated the anti-wrinkle effect of I. indigotica leaf extract on human skin. The purified extract inhibited 85.4% of 2,2-diphenyl-1-1picrylhydrazyl and 72.2% of 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt radicals at a concentration of 1 mg/mL. Nitrite production was reduced by 30% after treatment with 50 μg/mL of extract. Three fractions from the extract downregulated the mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and -3 and upregulated the expression of interleukin 4. Among the three fractions, fraction 2 exhibited the highest activity. The major component of the extract was identified as 3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamic acid by liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. Molecular docking was conducted to predict the binding mechanism of 3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamic with matrix metalloproteinase-1 and -3, and their binding energies were -5.20 and -4.89 kcal/mol, respectively. In a clinical trial, five roughness values of visiometer and visual score were significantly reduced in treated groups compared with the placebo group after 8 weeks. I. indigotica leaf extract inhibits wrinkle formation, and could be a potential anti-wrinkle agent. This is the first clinical trial demonstrating its anti-wrinkle activity.

Effect of ultraviolet radiation on the Nrf2 signaling pathway in skin cells

PURPOSE

Excessive exposure of skin to solar radiation is associated with greatly increased production of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species (ROS, RNS) resulting in oxidative stress (OS), inflammation, immunosuppression, the production of matrix metalloproteinase, DNA damage and mutations. These events lead to increased incidence of various skin disorders including photoaing and both non-melanoma and melanoma skin cancers. The ultraviolet (UV) part of sunlight, in particular, is responsible for structural and cellular changes across the different layers of the skin. Among other effects, UV photons stimulate oxidative damage to biomolecules via the generation of unstable and highly reactive compounds. In response to oxidative damage, cytoprotective pathways are triggered. One of these is the pathway driven by the nuclear factor erythroid-2 related factor 2 (Nrf2). This transcription factor translocates to the nucleus and drives the expression of numerous genes, among them various detoxifying and antioxidant enzymes. Several studies concerning the effects of UV radiation on Nrf2 activation have been published, but different UV wavelengths, skin cells or tissues and incubation periods were used in the experiments that complicate the evaluation of UV radiation effects.

CONCLUSIONS

This review summarizes the effects of UVB (280-315 nm) and UVA (315-400 nm) radiation on the Nrf2 signaling pathway in dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes and melanocytes. The effects of natural compounds (pure compounds or mixtures) on Nrf2 activation and level as well as on Nrf2-driven genes in UV irradiated human skin fibroblasts, keratinocytes and melanocytes are briefly mentioned as well.HighlightsUVB radiation is a rather poor activator of the Nrf2-driven pathway in fibroblastsUVA radiation stimulates Nrf2 activation in dermal fibroblastsEffects of UVA on the Nrf2 pathway in keratinocytes and melanocytes remain unclearLong-term Nrf2 activation in keratinocytes disturbs their normal differentiationPharmacological activation of Nrf2 in the skin needs to be performed carefully.

Poria cocos (Fuling) targets TGFβ/Smad7 associated collagen accumulation and enhances Nrf2-antioxidant mechanism to exert anti-skin aging effects in human dermal fibroblasts

Oxidative stress is a major cause of aging related skin injuries. Hydrogen peroxide related ROS accumulation triggers increase in matrix metalloproteinases and elevated collagen degradation, which is a characteristic of skin aging. In this study, we investigated the protective effect of Poria cocos, used widely in the treatment of inflammatory diseases, against H₂ O₂ induced oxidative stress. The aqueous extract of dried P. cocos was obtained by heating 10 g in 500 ml of distilled water. The mixture was evaporated up to 400 ml and the remaining 100 ml was filtered through muslin cloth repeatedly to obtain a clear aqueous extract of the P. cocos. Hs68 human dermal fibroblast cells were challenged with 100 μM of H₂ O₂ for 24 h. Following H₂ O₂ challenge, the cells were treated with increasing concentration of P. cocos extract (100-400 μg/ml) for 24 h. P. cocos extract hindered the H₂ O₂ induced cell death significantly that was correlated with reduction in ROS accumulation. Western blot analysis show that P. cocos extract suppressed the expression of metallomatrix proteinases, inflammatory markers and skin aging markers, but increased TGF-β1 levels and antioxidant related proteins. These data suggest that P. cocos is effective in attenuating oxidative stress associated skin aging effects and may be a potential agent in cosmetics products.

Exosome Derived from ADSCs Attenuates Ultraviolet B-mediated Photoaging in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Stem cell therapies have attracted a lot of attention in the fields of dermatological and esthetic medicine. The paracrine action of stem cells is deemed to play a crucial role in skin treatments. Many reports have demonstrated the beneficial effects of conditioned medium (CM) derived from ADSCs on skin photoaging. However, few reports have presented the application of exosome (Exo) derived from ADSCs in the treatment of photoaging. To clarify the effects of Exo, we collected Exo from the CM of ADSCs and the photoprotective effects of Exo, as well as those of the CM with and without Exo, were investigated by detecting the intracellular ROS, DNA damage and some photoaging-associated signal pathways on UVB-treated human dermal fibroblasts. The results showed that Exo had significant efficiency in preventing photoaging, and it could inhibit UVB-induced cellular DNA damage, overexpression of ROS and MMP-1 via regulating Nrf2 and MAPK/AP-1 pathway. In addition, Exo could effectively activate the TGF-β/Smad pathway to elevate the expression of procollagen type I. However, these photoprotective effects were weakened when Exo was removed from the CM. Taken together, the results suggested that Exo, a key component of paracrine activity, played an important role in the treatment of photoaging.

Evaluation of the Antiwrinkle Activity of Enriched Isatidis Folium Extract and an HPLC-UV Method for the Quality Control of Its Cream Products

Currently, many extracts from natural sources are added to cosmetic products for reducing facial aging and wrinkles. This study investigated the antiwrinkle activity of enriched extract of Isatidis Folium used for a novel antiwrinkle cream product. The result demonstrated that this enriched extract has excellent antiwrinkle activity by significantly inhibiting mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1, matrix metalloproteinase-3, and pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-1β and upregulating the mRNA expression of IL-4 and procollagen. Additionally, to implement effective quality control of the entire manufacturing process of antiwrinkle cream products based on the enriched extract of Isatidis Folium, the main chemical constituents of the enriched extract of Isatidis Folium was evaluated by high-performance liquid chromatography-photodiode array-tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-PDA-ESI-MS/MS), five constituents were undisputedly confirmed. An HPLC-UV method in 15-min analysis time for quality assessment of the entire manufacturing process of antiwrinkle cream products was proposed and validated. The optimal conditions for extracting TMCA (3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamic acid) from the developed antiwrinkle cream products were determined using response surface methodology based on central composite design. The established HPLC method and optimal extract condition are suitable for routinely analyzing this novel antiwrinkle cream product.

Protective Effects of Indole 3-Acetonitrile-4-Methoxy-2-S-β-d-Glucopyranoside From Nasturtium officinale R. Br. Against Ultraviolet B-Induced Photodamage in Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Ultraviolet radiation induces skin photoaging, which is associated with the elevation of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and the decrease of procollagen. Nasturtium officinale plays a well-known role in the treatment of sulfur-containing compounds and their important role in protecting human health. However, their skin protective activity toward UVB-induced photodamage remains unclear. In the present study, we investigated the protective effect of indole 3-acetonitrile-4-methoxy-2- S-β-d-glucopyranoside (IAMG) from N. officinale on UVB-irradiated normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF). Our results show that IAMG enhanced NHDF cell migration. The UVB-induced increases in MMP-1 and decrease in type I procollagen were ameliorated by IAMG treatment. Taken together, our data strongly suggest that IAMG from N. officinale could reduce UVB-induced photodamage.

Protective Effects of C24 Ceramide From the Seeds of Brassica napus L. Against Ultraviolet B-Induced Photoaging in Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces skin photoaging, which is associated with the elevation of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and the decrease of collagen. Brassica napus plays a well-known role in the treatment of canola oil through their anti-oxidative and DNA protective properties. However, their skin protective activity toward UVB-induced damage remains unclear. In the present study, we investigated the protective effect of C24 ceramide from B. napus on UVB-irradiated normal human dermal fibroblasts. Our results show that C24 ceramide enhanced NHDFs cell migration. The UVB-induced increase in MMP-1 and decrease in type I procollagen were ameliorated by C24 ceramide treatment. Taken together, our data strongly suggest that C24 ceramide from B. napus could reduce UVB-induced photoaging.

Protective Effects of Euphrasia officinalis Extract against Ultraviolet B-Induced Photoaging in Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces skin photoaging, which is associated with the elevation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and the impairment of collagen. The Euphrasia species play a well-known role in the treatment of certain eye disorders through their anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory activities. However, their protective activity toward UVB-induced damage remains unclear. In the present study, we investigated the protective effect of Euphrasia officinalis (95% ethanol extract) on UVB-irradiated photoaging in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). Our results show that Euphrasia officinalis extract exhibited obvious reactive oxygen species (ROS) and 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging activity, enhanced NHDF cell migration, and reduced UVB-induced apoptosis. The UVB-induced increases in MMP-1 and MMP-3 and decrease in type I procollagen were ameliorated by Euphrasia officinalis treatment, which worked by suppressing the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) and nuclear transcription factor activator protein 1 (AP-1) signaling pathways. Taken together, our data strongly suggest that Euphrasia officinalis ethanol extract could reduce UVB-induced photoaging by alleviating oxidative stress, proinflammatory activity, and cell apoptosis.