Innovative cosmeceuticals: sirtuin activators and anti-glycation compounds

Enhancing the Bioavailability of Resveratrol: Combine It, Derivatize It, or Encapsulate It?

Overcoming the limited bioavailability and extensive metabolism of effective in vitro drugs remains a challenge that limits the translation of promising drugs into clinical trials. Resveratrol, despite its well-reported therapeutic benefits, is not metabolically stable and thus has not been utilized as an effective clinical drug. This is because it needs to be consumed in large amounts to overcome the burdens of bioavailability and conversion into less effective metabolites. Herein, we summarize the more relevant approaches to modify resveratrol, aiming to increase its biological and therapeutic efficacy. We discuss combination therapies, derivatization, and the use of resveratrol nanoparticles. Interestingly, the combination of resveratrol with established chemotherapeutic drugs has shown promising therapeutic effects on colon cancer (with oxaliplatin), liver cancer (with cisplatin, 5-FU), and gastric cancer (with doxorubicin). On the other hand, derivatizing resveratrol, including hydroxylation, amination, amidation, imidation, methoxylation, prenylation, halogenation, glycosylation, and oligomerization, differentially modifies its bioavailability and could be used for preferential therapeutic outcomes. Moreover, the encapsulation of resveratrol allows its trapping within different forms of shells for targeted therapy. Depending on the nanoparticle used, it can enhance its solubility and absorption, increasing its bioavailability and efficacy. These include polymers, metals, solid lipids, and other nanoparticles that have shown promising preclinical results, adding more "hype" to the research on resveratrol. This review provides a platform to compare the different approaches to allow directed research into better treatment options with resveratrol.

Enzymatic Deglycation of Damaged Skin by Means of Combined Treatment of Fructosamine-3-Kinase and Fructosyl-Amino Acid Oxidase

The consensus in aging is that inflammation, cellular senescence, free radicals, and epigenetics are contributing factors. Skin glycation through advanced glycation end products (AGEs) has a crucial role in aging. Additionally, it has been suggested that their presence in scars leads to elasticity loss. This manuscript reports fructosamine-3-kinase (FN3K) and fructosyl-amino acid oxidase (FAOD) in counteracting skin glycation by AGEs. Skin specimens were obtained (n = 19) and incubated with glycolaldehyde (GA) for AGE induction. FN3K and FAOD were used as monotherapy or combination therapy. Negative and positive controls were treated with phosphate-buffered saline and aminoguanidine, respectively. Autofluorescence (AF) was used to measure deglycation. An excised hypertrophic scar tissue (HTS) (n = 1) was treated. Changes in chemical bonds and elasticity were evaluated using mid-infrared spectroscopy (MIR) and skin elongation, respectively. Specimens treated with FN3K and FAOD in monotherapy achieved an average decrease of 31% and 33% in AF values, respectively. When treatments were combined, a decrease of 43% was achieved. The positive control decreased by 28%, whilst the negative control showed no difference. Elongation testing of HTS showed a significant elasticity improvement after FN3K treatment. ATR-IR spectra demonstrated differences in chemical bounds pre- versus post-treatment. FN3K and FAOD can achieve deglycation and the effects are most optimal when combined in one treatment.

Statistical development and in vivo evaluation of resveratrol-loaded topical gel containing deformable vesicles for a significant reduction in photo-induced skin aging and oxidative stress

OBJECTIVE

The present study aims to formulate and evaluate a novel vesicular formulation of resveratrol to achieve its dermatological benefits in terms of antiphotoaging and antioxidant.

METHOD

In this study, resveratrol-loaded deformable vesicular gel was prepared and optimized using Box-Behnken design. Selected critical material attributes were amount of phospholipid (X1), concentration of ethanol (X2), and amount of sodium cholate (X3). The prepared transethosomal vesicles were incorporated into carbopol gel base and evaluated. Ultraviolet radiation-induced skin aging and oxidative stress model in Swiss Albino mice was used to evaluate the clinical potential of the developed formulation and compared with conventional gel. Levels of Super Oxide Dismutase (SOD), catalase, glutathione peroxidase, protein content, and malondialdehyde were measured to assess the extent of lipid peroxidation and reactive oxygen species inhibition in different groups.

RESULT

DoE was successfully employed to optimize the vesicular formulation. Vesicle size was found to be 158.9 ± 7.65 nm, while values of entrapment efficiency and skin deposition were found to be 77.83 ± 2.87% and 371.84 ± 5.12 µg cm^-2, respectively. Visual skin grading and histopathological studies confirmed the higher efficacy of transethosomal resveratrol against oxidative stress. Significant enhancement in the levels of antioxidant enzymes and protein content confirmed the ameliorated potential of flexible transethosomal resveratrol as compared to the plain gel of resveratrol.

CONCLUSION

Restoration of first-line defense mechanism in chronic UV-exposed animal model has proved that transethosomal resveratrol can be developed as an innovative cosmetic product for significant improvement and repair of photo-aged skin.

Bioassay-Guided Isolation, Metabolic Profiling, and Docking Studies of Hyaluronidase Inhibitors from Ravenala madagascariensis

Hyaluronidase enzyme (HAase) has a role in the dissolution or disintegration of hyaluronic acid (HA) and in maintaining the heathy state of skin. Bioassay-guided fractionation of Ravenala madagascariensis (Sonn.) organ extracts (leaf, flower, stem, and root) testing for hyaluronidase inhibition was performed followed by metabolic profiling using LC–HRMS. Additionally, a hyaluronidase docking study was achieved using Molecular Operating Environment (MOE). Results showed that the crude hydroalcoholic (70% EtOH) extract of the leaves as well as its n-butanol (n-BuOH) partition showed higher HAase activity with 64.3% inhibition. Metabolic analysis of R. madagascariensis resulted in the identification of 19 phenolic compounds ranging from different chemical classes (flavone glycosides, flavonol glycosides, and flavanol aglycones). Bioassay-guided purification of the leaf n-BuOH partition led to the isolation of seven compounds that were identified as narcissin, rutin, epiafzelechin, epicatechin, isorhamnetin 7-O-glucoside, kaempferol, and isorhamnetin-7-O-rutinoside. The docking study showed that narcissin, rutin, and quercetin 3-O-glucoside all interact with HAase through hydrogen bonding with the Asp111, Gln271, and/or Glu113 residues. Our results highlight Ravenala madagascariensis and its flavonoids as promising hyaluronidase inhibitors in natural cosmetology preparations for skin care.

Green cardamom increases Sirtuin-1 and reduces inflammation in overweight or obese patients with non-alcoholic fatty liver disease: a double-blind randomized placebo-controlled clinical trial

BACKGROUND

Non-alcoholic fatty liver disease (NAFLD) is the hepatic component of metabolic syndrome. Despite the beneficial health effects of cardamom on dyslipidemia, hepatomegaly, and fasting hyperglycemia, no previous human study has been conducted on the efficacy of cardamom in NAFLD. The aim of this study was to assess the effects of green cardamom (GC) on serum Sirtuin-1 (Sirt1), inflammatory factors, and liver enzymes in overweight or obese NAFLD patients.

METHODS

The recruitment of subjects was conducted at the polyclinic of the central hospital of National Iranian Oil Company (NIOC), Tehran. Eighty-seven patients who participated were divided randomly into two groups according to the ultrasonography and eligibility criteria as cardamom (n = 43) or placebo (n = 44). The intervention involves taking two 500 mg capsules three times per day with meals for 3 months. General characteristics, dietary intake and physical activity status, weight and height were determined. In addition, serum Sirt1, tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), high sensitive c-reactive protein (hs-CRP), interleukin-6 (IL-6), alanine transaminase (ALT), and aspartate transaminase (AST) were measured. The degree of fatty liver was determined at beginning and end of the study.

RESULTS

In comparison with placebo, GC significantly increased Sirt1 and decreased hs-CRP, TNF-α, IL-6, ALT, and the degree of fatty liver (P < 0.05). The differences in weight, BMI, and AST were not significant (P > 0.05).

CONCLUSION

GC supplementation could improve some biomarkers related to fatty liver including inflammation, ALT, and Sirt1 in overweight/obese NAFLD patients. Further trials on cardamom's potential are suggested.

TRIAL REGISTRATION

Iranian Registry of Clinical Trials, IRCT2015121317254N4. Registered 27/12/2015.

Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Resveratrol: Mechanistic Insights

Inflammation is the principal response invoked by the body to address injuries. Despite inflammation constituting a crucial component of tissue repair, it is well known that unchecked or chronic inflammation becomes deleterious, leading to progressive tissue damage. Studies over the past years focused on foods rich in polyphenols with anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory properties, since inflammation was recognized to play a central role in several diseases. In this review, we discuss the beneficial effects of resveratrol, the most widely investigated polyphenol, on cancer and neurodegenerative, respiratory, metabolic, and cardiovascular diseases. We highlight how resveratrol, despite its unfavorable pharmacokinetics, can modulate the inflammatory pathways underlying those diseases, and we identify future opportunities for the evaluation of its clinical feasibility.

Extraction Optimization of Flavonoids from Hypericum formosanum and Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 Inhibitory Activity

Hypericum formosanum is a valuable herb in Taiwan. In this study, response surface methodology was employed to optimize the ultrasound-assisted extraction of flavonoids from Hypericum formosanum. A central composite design with three variables (ethanol concentration, extraction time, and extraction temperature) was applied. Experimental results were fitted to the second order polynomial model and one-way analysis of variance was used to determine the goodness of fit of the model and the optimal conditions for responses. The optimal conditions for the maximum extraction yield of total flavonoid content (101.1 mg/g) using ultrasound-assisted extraction were ethanol concentration, 73.5%; extraction time, 38.3 min; and extraction temperature, 62.5 °C. The predicted result was consistent with the experimental result obtained under optimal extraction conditions. Hyperoside, astilbin, quercitrin, and quercetin from Hypericum formosanum extract (HFE) were identified by Ultra performance liquid chromatography-diode array detector-mass (UPLC-DAD-MS). HFE significantly reduced matrix metalloproteinase-1 protein expression in human skin keratinocyte cells, induced by advanced glycation end products.

The effects of green cardamom on blood glucose indices, lipids, inflammatory factors, paraxonase-1, sirtuin-1, and irisin in patients with nonalcoholic fatty liver disease and obesity: study protocol for a randomized controlled trial

BACKGROUND

The relationship between dietary components and nonalcoholic fatty liver disease (NAFLD) needs to be further investigated. The potential health benefits of cardamom have been found in some studies. Cardamom showed beneficial effect on hepatomegaly, dyslipidemia, and fasting hyperglycemia in animals. However, some adverse effects of cardamom have been reported in animals. No previous human study had been conducted on the effects of cardamom in NAFLD. This study aims to determine the effects of green cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum) supplementation on blood glucose indices, lipids, inflammatory profiles, and liver function, especially by examining irisin, paraxonase-1 (PON1) and sirtuin-1 (Sirt1) in obese patients with NAFLD.

METHODS

This trial is to be conducted at the polyclinic of the National Iranian Oil Company (NIOC) Central Hospital, Tehran. Eighty obese patients with NAFLD will be selected according to the eligibility criteria. The NAFLD diagnosis method is ultrasonography. Patients will be randomly divided into two groups by a random-number table (cardamom and placebo groups, two 500-mg capsules, three times/day, taken with meals for 3 months, follow-up monthly). General characteristics, dietary intakes (at the beginning, middle, and end), and physical activity (at the beginning and end) will be assessed using a general, 24-h food recall, and short-form International Physical Activity Questionnaires (IPAQ), respectively. Lifestyle advice will be presented to both groups identically. At the beginning and the end, anthropometrics (weight, height, and waist circumference), blood pressure, extent of fatty liver, and blood biomarkers, including serum glucose indices (fasting blood sugar (FBS)) and insulin (FBI), homeostasis model assessment-insulin resistance (HOMA-IR), Quantitative Insulin Sensitivity Check Index (QUICKI)), lipids (triglyceride (TG), low-density lipoprotein-cholesterol (LDL-c), high-density lipoprotein-cholesterol (HDL-c), total cholesterol (TC)), inflammatory markers (highly sensitive C-reactive protein (hs-CRP), tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), interleukin-6 (IL-6)), liver enzymes (alanine transaminase (ALT), aspartate transaminase (AST)), irisin, PON1, and Sirt1, will be determined.

DISCUSSION

This trial would be the first to assess the effects of green cardamom on several blood factors, including glucose indices, lipids, inflammatory markers, liver enzymes, irisin, PON1, and Sirt1, and blood pressure and anthropometry in obese patients with NAFLD. Further study of cardamom's potential in improving NAFLD is suggested.

TRIAL REGISTRATION

Iranian Registry of Clinical Trials (IRCT), ID number: IRCT2015121317254N4 . Registered on 27 December 2015.

Resveratrol, 4' Acetoxy Resveratrol, R-equol, Racemic Equol or S-equol as Cosmeceuticals to Improve Dermal Health

Phytochemicals are botanical compounds used in dermatology applications as cosmeceuticals to improve skin health. Resveratrol and equol are two of the best-known polyphenolic or phytoestrogens having similar chemical structures and some overlapping biological functions to 17β-estradiol. Human skin gene expression was reviewed for 28 different biomarkers when resveratrol, 4′ acetoxy resveratrol (4AR), R-equol, racemic equol or S-equol were tested. Sirtuin 1 activator (SIRT 1) was stimulated by resveratrol and 4AR only. Resveratrol, R-equol and racemic equol were effective on the aging biomarkers proliferating cell nuclear factor (PCNA), nerve growth factor (NGF), 5α-reductase and the calcium binding proteins S100 A8 and A9. Racemic equol and 4AR displayed among the highest levels for the collagens, elastin and tissue inhibitor of the matrix metalloproteinase 1 (TIMP 1). S-equol displayed the lowest level of effectiveness compared to the other compounds. The 4AR analog was more effective compared to resveratrol by 1.6-fold. R-equol and racemic equol were almost equal in potency displaying greater inhibition vs. resveratrol or its 4′ analog for the matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), but among the inflammatory biomarkers, resveratrol, 4AR, R-equol and racemic equol displayed high inhibition. Thus, these cosmeceuticals display promise to improve dermal health; however, further study is warranted to understand how phytochemicals protect/enhance the skin.

Results from in vitro and ex vivo skin aging models assessing the antiglycation and anti-elastase MMP-12 potential of glycylglycine oleamide

BACKGROUND

Glycation is an aging reaction of naturally occurring sugars with dermal proteins. Type I collagen and elastin are most affected by glycation during intrinsic chronological aging.

AIM

To study the in vitro and ex vivo assays in human skin cells and explants and the antiaging effects of glycylglycine oleamide (GGO).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The antiglycation effect of GGO was assessed in a noncellular in vitro study on collagen and, ex vivo, by immunohistochemical staining on human skin explants (elastin network glycation). The ability of GGO to contract fibroblasts was assessed in a functional assay, and its anti-elastase (MMP-12) activity was compared to that of oleic acid alone, glycylglycine (GG) alone, and oleic acid associated with GG.

RESULTS

In vitro, GGO reduced the glycation of type I collagen. Ex vivo, GGO restored the expression of fibrillin-1 inhibited by glycation. Furthermore, GGO induced a tissue retraction of almost 30%. Moreover, the MMP-12 activity was inhibited by up to 60%.

CONCLUSION

Under the present in vitro and ex vivo conditions, GGO prevents glycation of the major structural proteins of the dermis, helping to reduce the risk of rigidification. By maintaining the elastic function of the skin, GGO may be a promising sparring partner for other topical antiaging agents.

Curious Cases of the Enzymes

Life as we know it heavily relies on biological catalysis, in fact, in a very nonromantic version of it, life could be considered as a series of chemical reactions, regulated by the guarding principles of thermodynamics. In ancient times, a beating heart was a good sign of vitality, however, to me, it is actually the presence of active enzymes that counts… Though we do not usually pay attention, the history of enzymology is as old as humanity itself, and dates back to the ancient times. This paper is dedicated to these early moments of this remarkable science that touched our lives in the past and will make life a lot more efficient for humanity in the future. There was almost always a delicate, fundamentally essential relationship between mankind and the enzymes. Challenged by a very alien and hostile Nature full of predators, prehistoric men soon discovered the medicinal properties of the plants, through trial and error. In fact, they accidently discovered the enzyme inhibitors and thus, in crude terms, kindled a sparkling area of research. These plant-derivatives that acted as enzyme inhibitors helped prehistoric men in their pursuit of survival and protection from predators; in hunting and fishing… Later in history, while the underlying purposes of survival and increasing the quality of life stayed intact, the ways and means of enzymology experienced a massive transformation, as the 'trial and error' methodology of the ancients is now replaced with rational scientific theories.

Anti-glycative effects of asiatic acid in human keratinocyte cells

Background: Human skin keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells served to examine effects of asiatic acid (AA) at 1, 2, 4 and 8 μM against advanced glycative endproduct (AGE)-modified bovine serum albumin (BSA) induced glycative stress. Results: AGE-BSA treatment reduced cell viability; and increased reactive oxygen species, nitric oxide, protein carbonyl, interleukin (IL)-1beta and tumor necrosis factor-alpha levels in HaCaT cells. Yet AA pretreatments decreased these oxidative and inflammatory factors, dose-dependently lowering nitric oxide synthase activity and expression. AGE-BSA raised activity and expression of caspase-3 and caspase-8. AA pretreatments at 2-8 μM decreased activity and expression of these two caspases. AGE-BSA declined collagen I expression, but enhanced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, MMP-8 and MMP-9 protein expression. AA pretreatments at 2-8 μM maintained collagen I expression, and reduced three MMPs expression. AGE-BSA also up-regulated RAGE (receptor of AGE), p-p38 and p-JNK expression. AA pretreatments at 2-8 μM suppressed RAGE expression, and at 1-8 μM down-regulated p-p38 and p-JNK expression. Conclusion: Asiatic acid, via its anti-glycative activity, could protect skin. Thus, this compound could be developed as an external agent and applied for personalized medicine.

Advanced glycation end products: Key players in skin aging?

Aging is the progressive accumulation of damage to an organism over time leading to disease and death. Aging research has been very intensive in the last years aiming at characterizing the pathophysiology of aging and finding possibilities to fight age-related diseases. Various theories of aging have been proposed. In the last years advanced glycation end products (AGEs) have received particular attention in this context. AGEs are formed in high amounts in diabetes but also in the physiological organism during aging. They have been etiologically implicated in numerous diabetes- and age-related diseases. Strategies inhibiting AGE accumulation and signaling seem to possess a therapeutic potential in these pathologies. However, still little is known on the precise role of AGEs during skin aging. In this review the existing literature on AGEs and skin aging will be reviewed. In addition, existing and potential anti-AGE strategies that may be beneficial on skin aging will be discussed.