Identification of immature cornified envelopes in the barrier-impaired epidermis by characterization of their hydrophobicity and antigenicities of the components

Lipid Monolayer on Cell Surface Protein Templates Functional Extracellular Lipid Assembly

When the ancestors of men moved from aquatic habitats to the drylands, their evolutionary strategy to restrict water loss is to seal the skin surface with lipids. It is unknown how these rigid ceramide-dominated lipids with densely packed chains squeeze through narrow extracellular spaces and how they assemble into their complex multilamellar architecture. Here it is shown that the human corneocyte lipid envelope, a monolayer of ultralong covalently bound lipids on the cell surface protein, templates the functional barrier assembly by partly fluidizing and rearranging the free extracellular lipids in its vicinity during the sculpting of a functional skin lipid barrier. The lipid envelope also maintains the fluidity of the extracellular lipids during mechanical stress. This local lipid fluidization does not compromise the permeability barrier. The results provide new testable hypotheses about epidermal homeostasis and the pathophysiology underlying diseases with impaired lipid binding to corneocytes, such as congenital ichthyosis. In a broader sense, this lipoprotein-mediated fluidization of rigid (sphingo)lipid patches may also be relevant to lipid rafts and cellular signaling events and inspire new functional materials.

Characterisation of topographical, biomechanical and maturation properties of corneocytes with respect to anatomical location

BACKGROUND

The Stratum Corneum (SC) is the first barrier of the skin. The properties of individual cells are crucial in understanding how the SC at different anatomical regions maintains a healthy mechanical barrier. The aim of the current study is to present a comprehensive description of the maturation and mechanical properties of superficial corneocytes at different anatomical sites in the nominal dry state.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Corneocytes were collected from five anatomical sites: forearm, cheek, neck, sacrum and medial heel of 10 healthy young participants. The surface topography was analysed using Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) and Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM). The level of positive-involucrin cornified envelopes (CEs) and desmoglein-1 (Dsg1) were used as indirect measures of immature CEs and corneodesmosomes, respectively. In addition, AFM nanoindentation and stress-relaxation experiments were performed to characterise the mechanical properties.

RESULTS

Volar forearm, neck and sacrum corneocytes presented similar topographies (ridges and valleys) and levels of Dsg1 (13-37%). In contrast, cheek cells exhibited circular nano-objects, while medial heel cells were characterized by villi-like structures. Additionally, medial heel samples also showed the greatest level of immature CEs (32-56%, p < 0.001) and Dsg1 (59-78%, p < 0.001). A large degree of inter-subject variability was found for the Young's moduli of the cells (0.19-2.03 GPa), which was correlated with the level of immature CEs at the cheek, neck and sacrum (p < 0.05).

CONCLUSION

It is concluded that a comprehensive study of the mechanical and maturation properties of corneocytes may be used to understand the barrier functions of the SC at different anatomical sites.

Characterisation of superficial corneocyte properties over category I pressure ulcers: Insights into topographical and maturation changes

BACKGROUND

Pressure ulcers (PUs) are chronic wounds that are detrimental to the quality of life of patients. Despite advances in monitoring skin changes, the structure and function of skin cells over the site of pressure ulcers are not fully understood.

OBJECTIVE

The present study aims to evaluate local changes in the properties of superficial corneocytes in category 1 PU sites sampled from a cohort of hospitalised patients.

METHODS

Cells were collected from a PU-compromised site and an adjacent control area and their topographical, maturation and mechanical properties were analysed.

RESULTS

Corneocytes at the PU-compromised site were characterised by higher levels of immature cornified envelopes (p < 0.001) and greater amounts of desmoglein-1 (corneodesmosomal protein) (p < 0.001) compared to the adjacent control area. The cells at the control site presented the typical ridges-and-valleys topographical features of sacrum corneocytes. By contrast, the PU cells presented circular nano-objects at the cell surface, and, for some patients, the cell topography was deformed. CEs at the PU site were also smaller than at the control site. Although differences were not observed in the mechanical properties of the cells, those of the elderly patients were much softer compared with young subjects.

CONCLUSION

This is the first study investigating the changes in corneocyte properties in category I pressure ulcers. Superficial cells at the PU sites showed altered topographical and maturation characteristics. Further studies are required to elucidate if these changes are a consequence of early loss of skin integrity or a result of mechanical and microclimate insults to the skin surface.

Staining of stratum corneum with fluorescent ε-poly-L-lysine and its application to evaluation of skin conditions

BACKGROUND

ε-Poly-L-lysine (PLL) is a cationic polymer consisting of 25 to 35 L-lysine residues that adheres to the surface of skin as well as hair. However, the properties of PLL regarding its adhesion to the skin remain to be elucidated. In this study, we examined the staining of stratum corneum (SC) with fluorescence-labeled PLL and explored its relationship with skin condition.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Alexa Fluor 488-labeled PLL (AF-PLL) was reacted with tape-stripped stratum corneum (SC), and the staining properties were monitored by fluorescence microscopy. Clinical study was performed by measuring the water content of the cheek SC and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and the tape-stripped SC was subjected to staining with AF-PLL.

RESULTS

AF-PLL staining of the SC was inhibited at acidic pH or by the addition of high concentration of salt solution, suggesting the involvement of ionic interaction between PLL and the SC, at least in part. The AF-PLL staining was inhibited by unlabeled PLL or various alkyl amines, but not by L-lysine monomer. AF-PLL staining was observed inside the corneocytes as well as surrounding cornified envelope. Clinical study revealed that AF-PLL staining intensity of the SC was negatively correlated with its water content and positively correlated with its TEWL.

CONCLUSION

PLL can efficiently adhere to SC and AF-PLL staining of SC can be applied to evaluate skin conditions.

Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare

BACKGROUND

This review covers the last 20 years of research we and our collaborators have conducted on ethnic differences in facial skin moisturization placed in historical context with previous research.

METHODS

We have focussed particularly on the biochemical and cellular gradients of the stratum corneum (SC) with the aim of discovering new skin moisturization and SC maturation mechanisms, identifying new technologies and/or providing conceptual innovations for ingredients that will improve our understanding and treatment of dry skin. Specifically, we discuss gradients for corneodesmosomes and proteases, corneocyte phenotype-inducing enzymes, filaggrin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and barrier lipids. These gradients are interdependent and influence greatly corneocyte maturation.

RESULTS

The interrelationship between corneodesmolysis and the covalent attachment of ω-hydroxy ceramides and ω-hydroxy fatty acids to the corneocyte protein envelope forming the corneocyte lipid envelope is especially relevant in our new understanding of mechanisms leading to dry skin. This process is initiated by a linoleoyl-ω-acyl ceramide transforming enzyme cascade including 12R lipoxygenase (12R-LOX), epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3), epoxide hydrolase 3 (EPHX3), short-chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7), ceramidase and transglutaminase 1.

CONCLUSION

Our research has opened the opportunity of using novel treatment systems for dry skin based on lipids, humectants, niacinamide and inhibitors of the plasminogen system. It is clear that skin moisturization is a more complex mechanism than simple skin hydration.

Glycan-Dependent Corneocyte Adherence of Staphylococcus epidermidis Mediated by the Lectin Subdomain of Aap

Staphylococcus epidermidis and other coagulase-negative staphylococci (CoNS) that colonize skin are known to promote skin immunity and inhibit colonization of pathogens that cause skin and soft tissue infections, including Staphylococcus aureus. However, S. epidermidis adherence to corneocytes, the cells that constitute the uppermost layer of the skin epidermis, remains poorly understood. Our study documents that S. epidermidis corneocyte adherence is dependent upon the accumulation-associated protein (Aap). Aap is composed of two distinct A and B domains. The A domain is comprised of a repeat region and a conserved L-type lectin domain, whereas the fibrillar B domain, which is comprised of G5 and E repeats, is linked to the cell wall in a sortase-dependent manner. Our studies revealed that adherence to corneocytes is dependent upon the lectin subdomain within the A domain. However, significant adherence was only observed when the lectin domain was expressed with both the A repeat and the B domain, suggesting further interactions between these three domains. Our data also suggest that the A repeat domain is important for stability or expression of Aap. Deglycosylation treatment suggested that glycans expressed in the host stratum corneum serve as potential binding partners for Aap-mediated corneocyte adherence. Last, bioinformatic analyses of the predominant commensal species of CoNS identified open reading frames (ORFs) homologous to aap, thus suggesting that Aap orthologues containing lectin-like domains may provide the basis for staphylococcal colonization of skin. Corroborating these observations, adherence to corneocytes in an S. aureus mgrA mutant was dependent upon SasG, the Aap orthologue in S. aureus. IMPORTANCE Staphylococcus aureus is the most significant cause of skin and soft tissue infections yet it rarely colonizes the skin of healthy individuals. This is believed to be due, in part, to inhibition of colonization via toxic substances produced by normal skin flora, including by S. epidermidis. Furthermore, we surmise that S. aureus colonization inhibition may also be due to competition for binding sites on host corneocytes. To understand these potential interactions between S. aureus and S. epidermidis and, potentially, other coagulase-negative staphylococci, we must first understand how staphylococci adhere to corneocytes. This work documents that S. epidermidis adherence to corneocytes is dependent upon the fibrillar cell wall-associated protein Aap. Our work further documents that Aap binds to glycans exposed on the corneocyte surface, which are commonly exploited by bacteria to facilitate adherence to host cells. Furthermore, we find that Aap orthologues may be responsible for corneocyte adherence in other staphylococci, including in S. aureus.

Corneocytes: Relationship between Structural and Biomechanical Properties

BACKGROUND

Skin is the interface between an organism and the external environment, and hence the stratum corneum (SC) is the first to withstand mechanical insults that, in certain conditions, may lead to integrity loss and the development of pressure ulcers. The SC comprises corneocytes, which are vital elements to its barrier function. These cells are differentiated dead keratinocytes, without organelles, composed of a cornified envelope and a keratin-filled interior, and connected by corneodesmosomes (CDs).

SUMMARY

The current review focusses on the relationship between the morphological, structural, and topographical features of corneocytes and their mechanical properties, to understand how they assist the SC in maintaining skin integrity and in responding to mechanical insults. Key Messages: Corneocytes create distinct regions in the SC: the inner SC is characterized by immature cells with a fragile cornified envelope and a uniform distribution of CDs; the upper SC has resilient cornified envelopes and a honeycomb distribution of CDs, with a greater surface area and a smaller thickness than cells from the inner layer. The literature indicates that this upward maturation process is one of the most important steps in the mechanical resistance and barrier function of the SC. The morphology of these cells is dependent on the body site: the surface area in non-exposed skin is about 1,000-1,200 μm2, while for exposed skin, for example, the cheek and forehead, is about 700-800 μm2. Corneocytes are stiff cells compared to other cellular types, for example, the Young's modulus of muscle and fibroblast cells is typically a few kPa, while that of corneocytes is reported to be about hundreds of MPa. Moreover, these skin cells have 2 distinct mechanical regions: the cornified envelope (100-250 MPa) and the keratin matrix (250-500 MPa).

Protective Effect of Spirulina-Derived C-Phycocyanin against Ultraviolet B-Induced Damage in HaCaT Cells

Background and objectives: Reactive oxygen species (ROS) overwhelm the antioxidant defense system, induce oxidative stress, and increase matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) expression, resulting in skin aging. Thus, preventing ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin damage can attenuate skin aging. Spirulina (a biomass of cyanobacteria, also called blue-green algae) is comprised of prokaryotes, whereas microalgae are eukaryotes and are rich in phycocyanin, a powerful antioxidant. Materials and Methods: Here, we investigated the photoprotective effects of spirulina-derived C-phycocyanin (C-PC) against UVB radiation using keratinocytes (HaCaT cells). Results: UVB radiation increased MMP-1 and MMP-9 expression but decreased involucrin, filaggrin, and loricrin expression. C-PC showed no toxicity at concentrations of 5–80 μg/mL in terms of HaCaT cell viability. UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells had a 50.8% survival rate, which increased to 80.3% with C-PC treatment. MMP expression increased with UVB treatment, whereas MMP-1 and MMP-9 concentrations decreased with C-PC treatment. UVB reduced involucrin, filaggrin, and loricrin expression in HaCaT cells, but 80 μg/mL C-PC increased their expression by >25%. In the UVB radiation group, dichlorofluorescin diacetate fluorescence intensity in HaCaT cells increased by 81.6% compared with that in the control group, whereas ROS production was reduced by 51.2% and 55.1% upon treatment with 40 and 80 μg/mL C-PC, respectively. Conclusions: C-PC might reduce or prevent skin aging by reducing UVB irradiation-induced skin wrinkles and free radicals.

Effects of petrolatum, a petrolatum depositing body wash and a regular body wash on biomarkers and biophysical properties of the stratum corneum

BACKGROUND

An important trend in the personal care industry involves the development of body wash products that not only clean the skin without damage but deposit conditioning ingredients to improve skin barrier function.

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this study was to develop skin biomarker measures to quantify the treatment effects of body wash products.

METHODS

We employed analysis of structural proteins (keratin 1,10,11 and involucrin), a natural moisturizing factor (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) and an inflammatory mediator (IL-1ra/IL-1α) from adhesive discs with dry skin grading, TEWL and capacitance measurements to compare the effects of direct application of petrolatum, a high petrolatum depositing body wash, and a regular body wash on dry leg skin in a standard leg-wash treatment protocol.

RESULTS

High depositing body wash and petrolatum had positive effects on stratum corneum barrier function as judged by biomarker analysis, biophysical measurements and skin grading compared to the regular body wash product.

CONCLUSIONS

The results clearly indicate that a combination of biomarker and biophysical property measurements is effective for determining the skin benefits of moisturizing body wash products.

Targeted dry skin treatment using a multifunctional topical moisturizer

OBJECTIVE

The development of dry skin is a complex process, with a wide variety of factors each playing different roles in its evolution. Given this, it is important when designing a formulation to tackle dry skin that these varied aspects of skin behaviour are addressed. Presented here are the results of a 3-week moisturization study carried out on dry legs. A wide range of traditional and more recently developed biophysical measurement methods have been combined with visual assessment of skin condition to enable multiple aspects of skin function to be determined. The observed changes in the skin are discussed in terms of the ingredients used in the moisturizing formulation.

METHODS

A range of novel and traditional skin assessment methods and techniques were used to assess the effects of an oil in water-based moisturizing product compared to an untreated site during a 3-week in vivo study on dry lower leg skin.

RESULTS

Statistically significant improvements were observed in a range of skin parameters as a result of product usage. Skin hydration assessed using Corneometer®, Epsilon® and visual dry skin grading all increased after 3 weeks of use. Skin barrier function measured using transepidermal water loss also improved. Levels of cholesterol, free fatty acids and Ceramide NH increased, as well as the average length of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid lamella bilayers, and the ratio of lipid to protein increased (measured using Lipbarvis® and in vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy). Increases in the levels of Ceramide EOS and NP were also observed, along with an improvement in corneocyte maturity, although these were not statistically significant.

CONCLUSIONS

Using a variety of traditional and novel skin assessment techniques, a wide range of factors associated with the evolution of dry skin have been assessed upon treatment with a new topical moisturizer. Product usage resulted in significant improvements to skin hydration and barrier function, the levels and morphology of SC barrier lipids, and overall epidermal differentiation. As a result there was a significant reduction in the characteristics associated with the development of dry skin after use of the test product.

Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations

Age-related differences in maturation parameters of corneocyte envelopes (size, hydrophobicity and rigidity) were examined at several facial test sites in young and old female Caucasians. In addition, the effect of topically applied niacinamide on these parameters was evaluated in a 4-week placebo-controlled study.

Biomarker Mapping on Skin Tape Strips Using MALDI Mass Spectrometry Imaging

Keratinocyte organization and biochemistry are important in forming the skin's protective barrier. Intrinsic and extrinsic factors can affect skin barrier function at the cellular and molecular levels. Matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization (MALDI) mass spectrometric imaging, a technique which combines both molecular aspects and histological details, has proven to be a valuable method in various disciplines including pharmacology, dermatology and cosmetology. It typically requires ex vivo samples, prepared following frozen tissue sectioning. This paper demonstrates the feasibility of performing MALDI analysis on tape strips collected non-invasively on skin. The aim is to obtain molecular imaging of corneocytes on tapes towards novel biological insights. Tapes were collected from two skin sites (volar forearm and cheek) of human volunteers. Ten molecules relating to skin barrier function were detected with a single mode of acquisition at high spatial resolution with a 7 T MALDI-Fourier transform ion cyclotron resonance (FTICR) instrument. The method sensitivity was adequate to create molecular maps which could be overlaid on transmission microscopy images of the same area of the tape. Analysis of the molecular distributions from tapes at the two skin sites was consistent with the known skin properties of the two sites, confirming the validity of the observations. Hierarchical clustering analysis was used to differentiate corneocyte populations based on their molecular profiles. Furthermore, morphological analysis provided a new way of considering statistical populations of corneocytes on the same tape, rather than measuring a single averaged value, providing additional useful information relating to their structure-function relationship.

Facial skin mapping: from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types

Dry skin is one of the most important concerns of consumers worldwide. Despite huge efforts over several decades, the personal care industry still does not offer a perfect solution to satisfy the unmet needs of consumers for moisturising treatments in different ethnic groups. The paucity of data for the underlying cellular and biochemical problems in, and the effects of moisturisers on photodamaged facial skin may partly explain this. Mainly, single point measurements are used to understand the effects of products on skin physiology even on surrogate skin sites such as the non‐photodamaged volar forearm. Some groups have developed discontinuous facial maps of skin biophysical properties, however, in 2014 a continuous facial analysis of bio‐instrumental evaluations was developed using a heat map approach. These maps enabled a continuous visualization of features that not only revealed an unexpected complexity of facial skin but also indicated that use of surrogate skin sites for facial skin is inappropriate. We have demonstrated that remarkable gradients of skin hydration, TEWL, skin surface pH and sebum exist within short distances across the face and the gradients are distinctive among different ethnic groups. In addition, these studies have demonstrated that darkly‐pigmented individuals do not necessarily have a better skin barrier function than their less‐pigmented counterparts and that Caucasians have a lower facial skin surface pH compared with more pigmented subjects. Overall, there are no correlations between capacitance, TEWL and skin surface pH including individual topology angle values. Novel 3D camera approaches have also been used to facilitate a more precise assignment of measurement sites and visualisation. The 3D facial colour mappings illustrated precisely the local moisturising effects of a moisturising cream. There were subtle ethnic differences in efficacy that may be related to underlying skin biochemistry and/or ethnic differences in product application. A placebo‐controlled study using conductance measurements in Chinese subjects is also reported. Finally, a new whole face statistical approach has been taken to prove differences in skin parameters but also of moisturiser treatment that adds further to our understanding of the ethnic differences in skin physiology and product application. This paper reviews the background of the development and application of this methodology.

A proof-of-principle study comparing barrier function and cell morphology in face and body skin

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this pilot in vivo study was to investigate corneocyte size and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in facial cheek and volar forearm skin as a function of consecutive tape stripping. Changes in corneocyte size and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured as a function of stratum corneum (SC) depth at both anatomical sites. To our knowledge, this is the first published quantitative comparison based on these parameters. This work complements our previously published studies on face skin barrier recovery at 24 h and 4 weeks post-tape stripping [Gorcea et al., Skin Res. Technol., 19, 2013, e375-e382; Gorcea et al., Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 35, 2013, 250].

METHODS

Transepidermal water loss in vivo measurements of forearm and facial skin sites were taken before tape stripping commenced (baseline) and after each tape was collected. Optical microscopy and image analysis techniques were employed to characterize corneocyte size as a function of skin depth (tape strip number) for both anatomical sites.

RESULTS

Transepidermal water loss increased significantly from baseline with sequential tape stripping at both anatomical skin sites. Volar forearm skin required approximately three times as many tapes to 'damage' the SC barrier (arbitrarily defined as twice baseline TEWL) compared to facial cheek skin demonstrating significant differences in barrier properties between cheeks and forearms (P < 0.05). Corneocyte size decreased significantly with depth for both sites (P < 0.001). Corneocytes from face skin were significantly smaller than corneocytes from volar forearm skin.

CONCLUSION

Statistically significant differences between facial and body skin stratum corneum cell morphology and transepidermal water loss were demonstrated and quantitatively measured as a function of tape stripping.

A new approach to assess the effect of photodamage on corneocyte envelope maturity using combined hydrophobicity and mechanical fragility assays

BACKGROUND

The maturity of the corneocyte envelope (CE) provides information about the barrier functionality of the stratum corneum (SC). Corneocytes are enclosed by the CE, a protein-lipid matrix, contributing to mechanical resistance and hydrophobicity of the SC.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of the work was to develop a novel and robust approach to characterize CE maturity based on rigidity, hydrophobicity and surface area. This offers an alternative approach to the Nile red staining and antigenicity of involucrin to characterize the CE. The photoexposed (PE) cheek and photoprotected (PP) post-auricular sites were selected for investigation.

METHODS

Nine tape strips were obtained from the cheek and post-auricular sites of healthy Caucasians. CEs on the first and last tape strip were subjected to sonication to assess rigidity, and Nile red staining to determine hydrophobicity per unit surface area. In addition, the presence of involucrin and lipids was assessed to determine CE maturity by examination of the red/green pixel ratio, percentage of involucrin expressing CEs and alternatively the ratio of fluorescence density.

RESULTS

The CE rigidity was lower in the deeper SC layers of the cheek, whereas post-auricular CEs were mechanically more resistant. Post-auricular CEs from the superficial SC had a larger surface area with a stronger fluorescence signal than those from the cheek. Interestingly, those CEs from the deeper SC layers had similar surface areas in both anatomical sites but were significantly different in hydrophobicity. These three parameters can be summarized as a relative CE maturity index that expresses CE maturity more precisely with a higher sensitivity than the conventional involucrin and Nile red staining approach. CEs of the cheek surface are more mature than CEs in the deeper SC layer, whereas CEs obtained from the post-auricular surface are more mature than those from the cheek surface.

CONCLUSION

The combined method developed allows characterization of CE maturity based on hydrophobicity per unit surface area and rigidity rather than a simple ratio of lipid to involucrin. A more robust and sensitive measurement has therefore been developed addressing the limitations of earlier protocols.

PNPLA1 defects in patients with autosomal recessive congenital ichthyosis and KO mice sustain PNPLA1 irreplaceable function in epidermal omega-O-acylceramide synthesis and skin permeability barrier

Autosomal recessive congenital ichthyosis (ARCI) is a heterogeneous group of monogenic genodermatoses that encompasses non-syndromic disorders of keratinization. The pathophysiology of ARCI has been linked to a disturbance in epidermal lipid metabolism that impaired the stratum corneum function, leading to permeability barrier defects. Functional characterization of some genes involved in ARCI contributed to the identification of molecular actors involved in epidermal lipid synthesis, transport or processing. Recently, PNPLA1 has been identified as a gene causing ARCI. While other members of PNPLA family are key elements in lipid metabolism, the function of PNPLA1 remained unclear. We identified 5 novel PNPLA1 mutations in ARCI patients, mainly localized in the putative active enzymatic domain of PNPLA1. To investigate Pnpla1 biological role, we analysed Pnpla1-deficient mice. KO mice died soon after birth from severe epidermal permeability defects. Pnpla1-deficient skin presented an important impairment in the composition and organization of the epidermal lipids. Quantification of epidermal ceramide species highlighted a blockade in the production of ω-O-acylceramides with a concomitant accumulation of their precursors in the KO. The virtually loss of ω-O-acylceramides in the stratum corneum was linked to a defective lipid coverage of the resistant pericellular shell encapsulating corneocytes, the so-called cornified envelope, and most probably disorganized the extracellular lipid matrix. Finally, these defects in ω-O-acylceramides synthesis and cornified envelope formation were also evidenced in the stratum corneum from PNPLA1-mutated patients. Overall, our data support that PNPLA1/Pnpla1 is a key player in the formation of ω-O-acylceramide, a crucial process for the epidermal permeability barrier function.

From observational to analytical morphology of the stratum corneum: progress avoiding hazardous animal and human testings

Background

In cosmetic science, noninvasive sampling of the upper part of the stratum corneum is conveniently performed using strippings with adhesive-coated discs (SACD) and cyanoacrylate skin surface strippings (CSSSs).

Methods

Under controlled conditions, it is possible to scrutinize SACD and CSSS with objectivity using appropriate methods of analytical morphology. These procedures apply to a series of clinical conditions including xerosis grading, comedometry, corneodynamics, corneomelametry, corneosurfametry, corneoxenometry, and dandruff assessment.

Results

With any of the analytical evaluations, SACD and CSSS provide specific salient information that is useful in the field of cosmetology. In particular, both methods appear valuable and complementary in assessing the human skin compatibility of personal skincare products.

Conclusion

A set of quantitative analytical methods applicable to the minimally invasive and low-cost SACD and CSSS procedures allow for a sound assessment of cosmetic effects on the stratum corneum. Under regular conditions, both methods are painless and do not induce adverse events. Globally, CSSS appears more precise and informative than the regular SACD stripping.

Effect of prolactin-induced protein on human skin: new insight into the digestive action of this aspartic peptidase on the stratum corneum and its induction of keratinocyte proliferation

Human prolactin-induced protein (PIP) is a major protein found in exocrine fluids such as saliva and sweat. Intriguingly, PIP possesses residues (human PIP (hPIP): PIP (29-63)) that display similarity to the aspartic peptidase candidapepsin. Here, we aimed to determine the effect of PIP as a protease on normal skin structure. Using an adhesive tape-stripping technique, we applied hPIP peptide on the corneocytes of normal-appearing facial skin from infants with eczema and healthy infants and then analyzed the morphological structure of corneocytes with Nile Red fluorescence. We also repeatedly applied the hPIP peptide onto the surface of a three-dimensional (3-D) human skin model and then analyzed any changes to the stratum corneum and epidermis using light microscopy and scanning electron microscopy. In both infant groups, a decrease in hydrophobic lipids from the cornified envelope was observed after treatment with hPIP. The peptide hPIP appeared to digest the fine structure of the stratum corneum and induce a proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes within the 3-D human skin model. Our results suggest that aspartic peptidase of PIP found in sweat or saliva deteriorates the skin barrier in a de novo manner, which potentially leads directly to the proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes without any external antigenic factors.

Cyanoacrylate skin surface stripping and the 3S-Biokit advent in tropical dermatology: a look from Liège

In the dermatopathology field, some simple available laboratory tests require minimum equipment for establishing a diagnosis. Among them, the cyanoacrylate skin surface stripping (CSSS), formerly named skin surface biopsy or follicular biopsy, represents a convenient low cost procedure. It is a minimally invasive method collecting a continuous sheet of stratum corneum and horny follicular casts. In the vast majority of cases, it is painless and is unassociated with adverse events. CSSS can be performed in subjects of any age. The method has a number of applications in diagnostic dermatopathology and cosmetology, as well as in experimental dermatology settings. A series of derived analytic procedures include xerosis grading, comedometry, corneofungimetry, corneodynamics of stratum corneum renewal, corneomelametry, corneosurfametry, and corneoxenometry.

Epidermal barrier: Adverse and beneficial changes induced by ultraviolet B irradiation depending on the exposure dose and time (Review)

Exposure of the skin to ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces various harmful effects in the tissues, particularly disruption of the epidermal barrier. However, ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation has been applied in the treatment of atopic dermatitis, a skin disease in which the epidermal barrier is defective. We reviewed the homeostasis of the epidermal barrier and several studies investigating the adverse and beneficial effects caused by different doses of UVB irradiation in the epidermal barrier. It may be concluded that, despite the harmful effects of UVB irradiation on the skin, UVB irradiation is able to exert beneficial effects in the epidermal barrier when administered in suberythemal doses and over a relatively short period of time, with no clinically evident inflammation or barrier disruption. This may be a useful therapeutic strategy for the use of UVB irradiation in the treatment of skin diseases with a disrupted epidermal barrier, such as atopic dermatitis, while reducing or avoiding the side-effects.

Influence of niacinamide containing formulations on the molecular and biophysical properties of the stratum corneum

Niacinamide-containing moisturisers are known be efficacious in alleviating dry skin conditions and improving stratum corneum (SC) barrier function. However, the mechanisms of action of niacinamide at the molecular level in the SC are still not well understood. Previously, we have reported the development of novel methods to probe SC barrier properties in vivo. The aim of the present study was to characterise changes in Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), corneocyte surface area and maturity, selected protease activities and SC thickness after repeated application of a simple vehicle containing niacinamide. A commercial formulation was also included as a reference. The left and right mid-volar forearms of 20 healthy volunteers were used as study sites, to which topical formulations were applied twice daily for 28 days. After successive tape-stripping, corneocyte maturity and surface area were assessed. In addition, activity of the desquamatory kallikrein (KLK) protease enzymes KLK5 and KLK7, and tryptase and plasmin (implicated in inflammatory process) were measured using a fluorogenic probe assay. The amount of protein removed and TEWL were also recorded. SC thickness before and after treatment was determined using Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS). Overall (i) corneocyte maturity and surface area decreased with increasing number of tape strips, (ii) activity of both the desquamatory and inflammatory enzymes was highest in the outer layers of the SC and decreased with depth (iii) TEWL increased as more SC layers were removed. Furthermore, areas treated with formulations containing niacinamide were significantly different to pre-treatment baseline and untreated/vehicle-control treated sites, with larger and more mature corneocytes, decreased inflammatory activity, decreased TEWL and increased SC thickness. These data (a) confirm the utility of measures and metrics developed previously for the non-invasive assay of SC barrier function, (b) present an holistic picture of a SC compartment managing barrier function through dynamic optimisation of pathlength and quality of building materials used, and (c) shed new light on niacinamide as a topical formulation adjunct with unique SC barrier-augmentation properties.

Variation of stratum corneum biophysical and molecular properties with anatomic site

Several serine protease enzymes are known to be involved in both normal desquamation and the inflammatory processes of the skin. Alteration in the activity of these proteases should also affect corneocyte maturity and size as well as stratum corneum thickness. The aim of the present work was to characterise the baseline changes in corneocyte size, corneocyte maturity, selected protease activity (specifically, Kallikreins-5 and 7, tryptase), protein content and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) as a function of anatomic site. The anatomic sites investigated were: cheek, abdomen, wrist and mid-ventral forearm. TEWL values were highest for the cheek (p < 0.05). The TEWL values were also significantly higher (p < 0.05) for cheek and wrist compared with other sites. Protein content was significantly lower for wrist (p < 0.05) compared with other sites. Corneocyte maturity and surface area were significantly (p < 0.05) lower for cheek and wrist compared with other sites. An excellent correlation (r (2) = 0.99) was obtained for maturity and surface area measurements. Kallikrein-5 and tryptase activity were significantly higher for the cheek compared with other sites but Kallikrein-7 values were uniform across sites. The findings have significant implications for skin permeability to drugs and other substances such as environmental toxins depending on the anatomic site of delivery or exposure.

Functional analyses of the skin surface of the areola mammae: comparison between healthy adult male and female subjects and between healthy individuals and patients with atopic dermatitis

BACKGROUND

Although the nipple and areola of the breast constitute a unique and prominent area on the chest, so far no study has been done on the functional properties of their skin surfaces.

OBJECTIVE

To study the stratum corneum (SC) covering the areola using noninvasive methods.

METHODS

Eighteen adult healthy subjects comprising nine men and nine women and 18 age- and sex-matched patients with atopic dermatitis (AD), none of whom had visible skin lesions, participated in the study. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface hydration and skin surface lipid levels were measured on the areola and adjacent breast skin. The size of the skin surface corneocytes of these skin regions was assessed.

RESULTS

All the healthy subjects showed significantly higher TEWL accompanied by smaller sized corneocytes on the areola than on the adjacent breast skin. Only female subjects revealed a significantly higher skin surface hydration state together with significantly increased skin surface lipid levels on the areola than on the adjacent breast skin. These sex differences were observed even in patients with AD. Comparison between healthy individuals and the patients with AD demonstrated higher TEWL, decreased skin surface hydration state and lower skin surface lipid levels associated with smaller sized corneocytes in the areola in the patients with AD, especially in male patients.

CONCLUSIONS

In adults, the SC barrier function and SC water-binding capacity of the areola were functionally poorer than in the adjacent skin, being covered by smaller sized corneocytes and lower amounts of skin surface lipids, especially in men and in patients with AD.

Corneobiology and corneotherapy--a final chapter

The text obtained for this review from Professor Albert Kligman was drawn posthumously from a variety of notes that he had been planning to use to write a review on corneobiology and corneotherapy. It was a review that he had dearly hoped to complete--his final 'magnum opus' with reflections on the subject.

Structural and functional differences in barrier properties of African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin

BACKGROUND

Differences in structural and functional skin characteristics have been linked with ethnical background. But racial differences in skin have not been thoroughly investigated by objective methods and the data are often contradictory.

OBJECTIVES

This study was undertaken to compare skin barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum on African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin by objective measurements.

METHODS

Baseline values of trans epidermal water loss were collected on the face. Consecutive stratum corneum D-squame tape strippings were collected on the panelist's ventral forearm and face to evaluate skin barrier strength and cohesion. Stratum corneum ceramides, maturation, measured as the transglutaminase-mediated cross-linking of stratum corneum proteins, and stratum corneum trypsin like enzyme activity were measured on the D-squame tape strippings.

RESULTS

East Asian and to some extent Caucasian skin was characterized by low maturation and relatively weak skin barrier. African American skin was characterized by low ceramide levels and high protein cohesion in the uppermost layers of the stratum corneum. These data can be interpreted in terms of the high prevalence of xerosis in black skin and increased skin sensitivity in East Asian skin.

CONCLUSION

These results demonstrate that skin properties at the level of the stratum corneum vary considerably among these ethnic groups. This contributes to an improved understanding of physiological differences between these study populations.

Up-regulation of serpin SCCA1 is associated with epidermal barrier disruption

BACKGROUND

Parakeratosis, the persistent presence of nuclei in the stratum corneum (SC) is associated with serious disruption of skin barrier function. Squamous cell carcinoma antigen 1 (SCCA1) is strongly up-regulated in inflamed and parakeratotic skin.

OBJECTIVE

To find a biochemical marker for the SC barrier disruption, especially the disruption associated with parakeratosis.

METHODS

An ELISA assay system was established to quantify SCCA1 in the extract of tape-stripped cornified cells. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and other skin parameters were measured and compared with the amount of SCCA1. Localization of SCCA1 was investigated immunohistochemically in various skin diseases with parakeratosis. Nuclei and SCCA1 on the skin surface were detected by staining of corniocytes collected on an adhesive-coated slide glass.

RESULTS

SCCA1 showed strong up-regulation in lesional skin with psoriasis (466-fold), hayfever skin caused by Japanese ceder pollen (232-fold) and sun-exposed skin of healthy individuals (90-fold) compared to their normal sun-protected skin. The increased levels of SCCA1 were well correlated with increased values of TEWL and the number of parakeratotic cells in the SC. Furthermore, subjects with high levels of SCCA1 in the epidermis were more susceptible to barrier disruption by external stimuli, and this was accompanied with a further increase of SCCA1. We confirmed that localization of SCCA1 was limited to parakeratotic areas by using the skin surface staining technique. Immunohistochemical study also demonstrated that SCCA1 was always present at high levels in parakeratotic epidermis.

CONCLUSION

All of our findings indicate that SCCA1 plays an important role in the induction of epidermal barrier disruption. SCCA1 may be a critical determinant of barrier function in the epidermis.

Location-related differences in structure and function of the stratum corneum with special emphasis on those of the facial skin

Between the two different kinds of the skin covering the body, the glabrous skin is found only on the palmo-plantar surface because of its rather simple function to protect the underlying living tissue with its remarkably thick stratum corneum (SC) from strong external force and friction. Thus, its barrier function is extremely poor. In contrast, the hair-bearing skin covers almost all over the body surface regardless of the presence of long hair or vellus hair. In regard to its SC, many dermatologists and skin scientists think that it is too thin to show any site-specific differences, because the SC is just present as an efficient barrier membrane to protect our body from desiccation as well as against the invasion by external injurious agents. However, there are remarkable regional differences not only in the living skin tissue but also even in such thin SC reflecting the function of each anatomical location. These differences in the SC have been mostly disclosed with the advent of non-invasive biophysical instruments, particularly the one that enables us to measure transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the parameter of the SC barrier function, and the one that evaluates the hydration state of the skin surface, the parameter of the water-holding capacity of the SC that brings about softness and smoothness to the skin surface. These in vivo instrumental measurements of the SC have disclosed the presence of remarkable differences in the functional properties of the SC particularly between the face and other portions of the body. The SC of the facial skin is thinner, being composed of smaller layers of corneocytes than that of the trunk and limbs. It shows unique functional characteristics to provide hydrated skin surface but relatively poor barrier function, which is similar to that observed in retinoid-treated skin or to that of fresh scar or keloidal scars. Moreover, there even exist unexpected, site-dependent differences in the SC of the facial skin such as the forehead, eyelid, cheek, nose and perioral regions, although each location occupies only a small area. Between these locations, the cheek shows the lowest TEWL in contrast to the perioral region that reveals the highest one. Moreover, these features are not static but change with age particularly between children and adults and maybe also between genders. Among various facial locations, the eyelid skin is distinct from others because its SC is associated with poor skin surface lipids and a thin SC cell layer composed of large corneocytes that brings about high surface hydration state but poor barrier function, whereas the vermillion borders of the lips that are covered by an exposed part of the oral mucosa exhibit remarkably poor barrier function and low hydration state. Future studies aiming at the establishment of the functional mapping in each facial region and in other body regions will shed light on more delicate site-dependent differences, which will provide us important information in planning the strategy to start so called tailor-made skin care for each location of the body.

Connexin Levels Regulate Keratinocyte Differentiation in the Epidermis

To understand the role of connexin43 (Cx43) in epidermal differentiation, we reduced Cx43 levels by RNA-mediated interference knockdown and impaired its functional status by overexpressing loss-of-function Cx43 mutants associated with the human disease oculodentodigital dysplasia (ODDD) in rat epidermal keratinocytes. When Cx43 expression was knocked down by 50-75%, there was a coordinate 55-65% reduction in Cx26 level, gap junction-based dye coupling was reduced by 60%, and transepithelial resistance decreased. Importantly, the overall growth and differentiation of Cx43 knockdown organotypic epidermis was severely impaired as revealed by alterations in the levels of the differentiation markers loricrin and involucrin and by reductions in vital and cornified layer thicknesses. Conversely, although the expression of Cx43 mutants reduced the coupling status of rat epidermal keratinocytes by approximately 80% without altering the levels of endogenous Cx43 or Cx26, their ability to differentiate was not altered. In addition, we used a mouse model of ODDD and found that newborn mice harboring the loss-of-function Cx43(G60S) mutant had slightly reduced Cx43 levels, whereas Cx26 levels, epidermis differentiation, and barrier function remained unaltered. This properly differentiated epidermis was maintained even when Cx43 and Cx26 levels decreased by more than 70% in 3-week-old mutant mice. Our studies indicate that Cx43 and Cx26 collectively co-regulate epidermal differentiation from basal keratinocytes but play a more minimal role in the maintenance of established epidermis. Altogether, these studies provide an explanation as to why the vast majority of ODDD patients, where Cx43 function is highly compromised, do not suffer from skin disease.

Depth Dependence of Stratum Corneum Lipid Ordering: A Slow-Tumbling Simulation for Electron Paramagnetic Resonance

We investigated the structural ordering of stratum corneum (SC) lipid by means of electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) slow-tumbling simulation in conjunction with spin probe studies. The SC of human mid-volar forearm was stripped consecutively from three to six times. The EPR probe method detected a characteristic peak of sebaceous matter in the first SC stripping. The order parameter values obtained by the slow-tumbling simulation (S(0)) showed significant differences between each layer compared with those indicated by the conventional order parameter (S) using hyperfine couplings. Although the conventional S values were in the range of 0.56 (outermost layer) to 0.61 (bottom layer), the S(0) values by the simulation changed from 0.22 to 0.96. The present results suggest that the structural ordering of the outermost SC layer is less tight, whereas the structure of inner layers becomes more rigid. Therefore, we concluded that the EPR probe method recognizes sebaceous matters, whereas EPR in conjunction with the simulation allows quantitative evaluation of SC lipid ordering in relation to skin depth.

A simple and non-invasive visualization for assessment of carbonylated protein in the stratum corneum

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE

Stratum corneum (SC) is the interface of body and environment and is continuously exposed to oxidative stress, resulting in oxidative modification of proteins. Consequent carbonylated proteins (CPs) have so far been labeled with 2,4-dinitrophenyl (DNP) hydrazine and subsequently detected with anti-DNP antibody. We developed a simpler, non-invasive method to assess CP level in the SC and applied it to following research.

METHODS

SC was collected by adhesive tape stripping and its carbonyl groups were labeled with fluorescein-5-thiosemicarbazide (FTZ). The staining image was observed by fluorescence microscopy and the average fluorescence intensity of the SC extracted from the image was calculated as stratum corneum carbonylated protein (SCCP) level.

RESULTS

By reaction with FTZ, carbonyl groups in the SC could be detected easily. Relatively strong fluorescence was observed in exfoliating scales. Lipid removal from the SC in vitro or in vivo did not show any change in fluorescence intensity, suggesting that carbonyl groups were mainly derived from proteins, not from lipids. SCCP level was higher in the upper layer than the lower layer, and higher in the cheek (sun-exposed) than the inside of upper arm (unexposed), positively correlated with age especially in male cheek, positively correlated with transepidermal water loss, negatively correlated with water content, and showed a subtle correlation with sebum level. On the other hand, SC collected by cyanoacrylate resin and labeled with FTZ revealed strong fluorescence around the pores in the cheek and on the grooves in the upper arm, suggesting the role of sebum in the generation of SCCP.

CONCLUSION

SCCP was assessed in a simple and non-invasive method, and suggested to be a novel indicator that reflects some aspect of skin condition.

Chemical Peeling by SA-PEG Remodels Photo-damaged Skin: Suppressing p53 Expression and Normalizing Keratinocyte Differentiation

Chemical peeling with salicylic acid in polyethylene glycol vehicle (SA-PEG), which specifically acts on the stratum corneum, suppresses the development of skin tumors in UVB-irradiated hairless mice. To elucidate the mechanism through which chemical peeling with SA-PEG suppresses skin tumor development, the effects of chemical peeling on photodamaged keratinocytes and cornified envelopes (CEs) were evaluated in vivo. Among UVB-irradiated hairless mice, the structural atypia and expression of p53 protein in keratinocytes induced by UVB irradiation were intensely suppressed in the SA-PEG-treated mice 28 days after the start of weekly SA-PEG treatments when compared to that in the control UVB-irradiated mice. Incomplete expression of filaggrin and loricrin in keratinocytes from the control mice was also improved in keratinocytes from the SA-PEG-treated mice. In photo-exposed human facial skin, immature CEs were replaced with mature CEs 4 weeks after treatment with SA-PEG. Restoration of photodamaged stratum corneum by treatment with SA-PEG, which may affect remodeling of the structural environment of the keratinocytes, involved the normalization of keratinocyte differentiation and suppression of skin tumor development. These results suggest that the stratum corneum plays a protective role against carcinogenesis, and provide a novel strategy for the prevention of photo-induced skin tumors.

Carbonylation of cornified envelopes in the stratum corneum

Stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin, is continuously exposed to oxidative stress via sunlight, lipid peroxidation, and is subsequently accompanied by oxidative modification. Previous studies have shown that major oxidative target proteins in the SC are keratins. However, it remains unclear to date whether cornified envelopes (CEs), protein envelopes of the corneocytes (cornified cells), would be oxidized. In this study, we first revealed oxidative modification of CEs using labeled hydrazide derivatives to detect carbonyl moieties. Carbonylation of CEs was confirmed by reaction with monoclonal antibodies against aldehyde-bound proteins, including anti-acrolein, anti-crotonaldehyde, anti-4-hydroxy-2-nonenal. The extent of carbonylation is stronger in CEs from the face, a sun-exposed area, than those from the inside of upper arm, an unexposed area. Carbonylation of CEs did not depend on their maturity, as evaluated by loss of involucrin antigenicity during maturation process, suggesting that CEs are carbonylated regardless of their maturation stage.

Decreased Levels of Covalently Bound Ceramide Are Associated with Ultraviolet B-Induced Perturbation of the Skin Barrier

Although ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation perturbs the skin barrier, little is known about the mechanism(s) with respect to the metabolism of ceramide (Cer). We examined changes in intercellular lipids in murine stratum corneum following UVB irradiation. A single UVB (75 mJ per cm(2)) irradiation caused a significant increase in transepidermal water loss, which plateaued at day 4. In parallel, covalently bound Cer was significantly decreased with the greatest decrease at days 3-4. In contrast, the levels of other free, non-bound lipids (including Cer or acylceramides) were significantly increased for Cer, or remained unchanged at day 4 compared with non-irradiated controls. RT-PCR analysis demonstrated a significant decrease in mRNA encoding transglutaminase-1 (TGase1). The peak occurred 2-4 d after a single UVB irradiation, a time when covalently bound Cer was significantly downregulated in concert with the disruption of the skin barrier. Furthermore, UVB-induced epidermal hyperplasia occurred to the greatest extent between 2 and 4 d following UVB irradiation. These results suggest that decreases in covalently bound Cer in the stratum corneum are mediated via the downregulation of TGase-1 as well as by the rapid induction of epidermal hyperplasia, which is attributable to the perturbation of the skin barrier induced by UVB irradiation.

Ratio of immature cornified envelopes does not correlate with parakeratosis in inflammatory skin disorders

We have previously established a non-invasive method to evaluate the maturity of cornified envelopes (CEs), and have reported the appearance of immature CEs in the stratum corneum (SC) with poor barrier function, such as the SC of the face. The purpose of the present study was to evaluate CEs in inflammatory skin disorders, and to clarify the relationship between the appearance of the immature CEs and parakeratosis, which is often used as a marker for defective keratinization in inflammatory skin disorders. Cornified envelopes in the outermost SC of involved areas of psoriasis vulgaris (PV) and atopic dermatitis (AD) were strikingly heterogeneous, and consisted of immature CEs stained with anti-involucrin and mature CEs stained with Nile red, whereas CEs of the uninvolved areas were relatively homogeneous, exhibiting mature phenotype. The ratio of immature CEs was significantly higher in the involved areas of PV and AD than that in the corresponding uninvolved areas, suggesting that defective CE maturation may, at least in part, account for the inflammatory disorders. Simultaneous evaluation of CE maturity and parakeratosis was carried out by a combination of involucrin immunostaining and nuclear staining of detergent-dissociated corneocytes. In the involved area of PV, four types of corneocytes in regard to the combination of involucrin staining and nuclear remnant were observed, while both immature CEs and parakeratosis were more often detected in the involved areas of PV than in the uninvolved areas or the upper arm of healthy subjects as a normal control. Thus, corneocytes with involucrin-positive immature CEs were not always associated with parakeratosis at the cellular level. In the involved areas of PV, the ratio of immature CEs and that of parakeratosis were heterogeneous, depending on the cases, and no correlation between the ratios was observed. Inter-individual and intraindividual variations in CE maturity were also suggested by the heterogeneous localization of involucrin in the psoriatic epidermis as examined by immunohistochemistry. In addition, in the face of healthy subjects, four types of corneocytes were similarly detected, and the ratio of immature CEs was significantly higher than that of parakeratosis. These results obviously suggest that the maturation of CEs and disappearance of nuclei are differentially regulated in the epidermis.

The stratum corneum: structure and function in health and disease

Our understanding of the formation, structure, composition, and maturation of the stratum corneum (SC) has progressed enormously over the past 30 years. Today, there is a growing realization that this structure, while faithfully providing a truly magnificent barrier to water loss, is a unique, intricate biosensor that responds to environmental challenges and surface trauma by initiating a series of biologic processes which rapidly seek to repair the damage and restore barrier homeostasis. The detailed ultrastructural, biochemical, and molecular dissection of the classic "bricks and mortar" model of the SC has provided insights into the basis of dry, scaly skin disorders that range from the cosmetic problems of winter xerosis to severe conditions such as psoriasis. With this knowledge comes the promise of increasingly functional topical therapies.