Towards symmetry driven and nature inspired UV filter design

Dual Photo-Responsive Diphenylacetylene Enables PET In-Situ Upcycling with Reverse Enhanced UV-Resistance and Strength

A novel in situ chemical upcycling strategy for plastic waste is proposed by the customized diphenylacetylene monomer with dual photo-response. That is, diphenylacetylene reactive monomers are in situ inserted into the macromolecular chain of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) plastics/fibers through one-pot transesterification of slight-depolymerization and re-polymerization. On the one hand, the diphenylacetylene group absorbs short-wave high-energy UV rays and then releases long-wave low-energy harmless fluorescence. On the other hand, the UV-induced photo-crosslinking reaction among diphenylacetylene groups produces extended π-conjugated structure, resulting in a red-shift (due to decreased HOMO-LUMO separation) in the UV absorption band and locked crosslink points between PET chains. Therefore, with increasing UV exposure time, the upcycled PET plastics exhibit reverse enhanced UV resistance and mechanical strength (superior to original performance), instead of serious UV-photodegradation and damaged performance. This upcycling strategy at oligomer-scale not only provides a new idea for traditional plastic recycling, but also solves the common problem of gradual degradation of polymer performance during use.

An expeditive and green chemo-enzymatic route to diester sinapoyl-l-malate analogues: sustainable bioinspired and biosourced UV filters and molecular heaters

Sinapoyl malate, naturally present in plants, has proved to be an exceptional UV filter and molecular heater for plants. Although there are nowadays industrially relevant sustainable synthetic routes to sinapoyl malate, its incorporation into certain cosmetic formulations, as well as its adsorption on plant leaves, is limited by its hydrophilicity. To overcome these obstacles, it is important to find a way to effectively control the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of sinapoyl malate to make it readily compatible with the cosmetic formulations and stick on the waxy cuticle of leaves. To this end, herein, we describe a highly regioselective chemo-enzymatic synthesis of sinapoyl malate analogues possessing fatty aliphatic chains of variable length, enabling the lipophilicity of the compounds to be modulated. The potential toxicity (i.e., mutagenicity, carcinogenicity, endocrine disruption, acute and repeated-dose toxicity), bioaccumulation, persistence and biodegradability potential of these new analogues were evaluated in silico, along with the study of their transient absorption spectroscopy, their photostability as well as their photodegradation products.

Understanding the Impact of Symmetrical Substitution on the Photodynamics of Sinapate Esters Using Gas-Phase Ultrafast Spectroscopy

Two model biomimetic systems, ethyl sinapate (ES) and its symmetrical analogue, diethyl 2-(4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzylidene)malonate (or diethyl sinapate, DES), are stripped to their core fundamentals through gas-phase spectroscopy to understand the underlying photophysics of photothermal materials. Following photoexcitation to the optically bright S1(ππ*) state, DES is found to repopulate the electronic ground state over 3 orders of magnitude quicker than its nonsymmetrical counterpart, ES. Our XMS-CASPT2 calculations shed light on the experimental results, revealing crucial differences in the potential energy surfaces and conical intersection topography between ES and DES. From this work, a peaked conical intersection, seen for DES, shows vital importance for the nonradiative ground-state recovery of photothermal materials. This fundamental comparative study highlights the potential impact that symmetrical substitution can have on the photodynamics of sinapate esters, providing a blueprint for future advancement in photothermal technology.

Characteristic Photoprotective Molecules from the Sphagnum World: A Solution-Phase Ultrafast Study of Sphagnic Acid

A natural UV-absorbing chromophore extracted from sphagnum mosses, sphagnic acid, is proposed as a new natural support to chemical UV filters for use in cosmetic applications. Sphagnic acid is structurally related to the cinnamate family of molecules, known for their strong UV absorption, efficient non-radiative decay, and antioxidant properties. In this study, transient electronic absorption spectroscopy is used, in conjunction with steady-state techniques, to model the photodynamics following photoexcitation of sphagnic acid in different solvent systems. Sphagnic acid was found in each system to relax with lifetimes of ~200 fs and ~1.5 ps before generating a cis-isomer photoproduct. This study helps to elucidate the photoprotective mechanism of a new potential natural support to sunscreens, from a unique plant source.

Spectroscopic insight on impact of environment on natural photoprotectants

Biomimicry has become a key player in researching new materials for a whole range of applications. In this study, we have taken a crude extract from the red algae Palmaria palmata containing mycosporine-like amino acids - a photoprotective family of molecules. We have applied the crude extract onto a surface to assess if photoprotection, and more broadly, light-to-heat conversion, is retained; we found it is. Considering sunscreens as a specific application, we have performed transmission and reflection terahertz spectroscopy of the extract and glycerol to demonstrate how one can monitor stability in real-world applications.

Synergic photoprotection of phenolic compounds present in tomato fruit cuticle: a spectroscopic investigation in solution

Coumaric acids and flavonoids play pivotal roles in protecting plants against ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure. In this work, we focus our photoprotection studies on p-coumaric acid and the flavonoid naringenin chalcone. Photoprotection is well-understood in p-coumaric acid; in contrast, information surrounding photoprotection in naringenin chalcone is lacking. Additionally, and vitally, how these two species work in unison to provide photoprotection across the UV-B and UV-A is unknown. Herein, we employ transient absorption spectroscopy together with steady-state irradiation studies to unravel the photoprotection mechanism of a solution of p-coumaric acid and naringenin chalcone. We find that the excited state dynamics of p-coumaric acid are significantly altered in the presence of naringenin chalcone. This finding concurs with quenching of the p-coumaric acid fluorescence with increasing concentration of naringenin chalcone. We propose a Förster energy transfer mechanism is operative via the formation of dipole-dipole interactions between p-coumaric acid and naringenin chalcone. To our knowledge, this is the first demonstration in plants of a synergic effect between two classes of phenolics to bypass the potentially damaging effects of UVR.

Direct structural observation of ultrafast photoisomerization dynamics in sinapate esters

Sinapate esters have been extensively studied for their potential application in 'nature-inspired' photoprotection. There is general consensus that the relaxation mechanism of sinapate esters following photoexcitation with ultraviolet radiation is mediated by geometric isomerization. This has been largely inferred through indirect studies involving transient electronic absorption spectroscopy in conjunction with steady-state spectroscopies. However, to-date, there is no direct experimental evidence tracking the formation of the photoisomer in real-time. Using transient vibrational absorption spectroscopy, we report on the direct structural changes that occur upon photoexcitation, resulting in the photoisomer formation. Our mechanistic analysis predicts that, from the photoprepared ππ* state, internal conversion takes place through a conical intersection (CI) near the geometry of the initial isomer. Our calculations suggest that different CI topographies at relevant points on the seam of intersection may influence the isomerization yield. Altogether, we provide compelling evidence suggesting that a sinapate ester's geometric isomerization can be a more complex dynamical process than originally thought.

From Biomass-Derived p-Hydroxycinnamic Acids to Novel Sustainable and Non-Toxic Phenolics-Based UV-Filters: A Multidisciplinary Journey

Although organic UV-filters are extensively used in cosmetics to protect consumers from the deleterious effects of solar UV radiation-exposure, they suffer from some major drawbacks such as their fossil origin and their toxicity to both humans and the environment. Thus, finding sustainable and non-toxic UV-filters is becoming a topic of great interest for the cosmetic industry. A few years ago, sinapoyl malate was shown to be a powerful naturally occurring UV-filter. Building on these findings, we decided to design and optimize an entire value chain that goes from biomass to innovative biobased and non-toxic lignin-derived UV-filters. This multidisciplinary approach relies on: 1) The production of phenolic synthons using either metabolite extraction from biomass or their bioproduction through synthetic biology/fermentation/in stream product recovery; 2) their functionalization using green chemistry to access sinapoyl malate and analogues; 3) the study of their UV-filtering activity, their photostability, their biological properties; and 4) their photodynamics. This mini-review aims at demonstrating that combining biotechnology, green chemistry, downstream process and photochemistry is a powerful approach to transform biomass and, in particular lignins, into high value-added innovative UV-filters.

A Perspective on Femtosecond Pump-Probe Spectroscopy in the Development of Future Sunscreens

Given the negative impacts of overexposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on humans, sunscreens have become a widely used product. Certain ingredients within sunscreens are responsible for photoprotection and these are known, collectively herein, as ultraviolet (UV) filters. Generally speaking, organic UV filters work by absorbing the potentially harmful UVR and dissipating this energy as harmless heat. This process happens on picosecond time scales and so femtosecond pump–probe spectroscopy (FPPS) is an ideal technique for tracking this energy conversion in real time. Coupling FPPS with complementary techniques, including steady-state spectroscopy and computational methods, can provide a detailed mechanistic picture of how UV filters provide photoprotection. As such, FPPS is crucial in aiding the future design of UV filters. This Perspective sheds light on the advancements made over the past two years on both approved and nature-inspired UV filters. Moreover, we suggest where FPPS can be further utilized within sunscreen applications for future considerations.

UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects

The use of sunscreens is an established and recommended practice to protect skin from solar-induced damage. Around 30 UV filters can be used in sunscreen products in the European Union, which ought to follow the requirements of the regulation 1223/2009 to ensure their efficacy and safety for humans. Nevertheless, low photostability and putative toxicity for humans and environment have been reported for some UV filters. Particularly, the negative impact in marine organisms has recently raised concern on the scientific community. Therefore, it is important to develop new UV filters with improved safety profile and photostability. Over the last two decades, nearly 200 new compounds have revealed promising photoprotection properties. The explored compounds were obtained through different approaches, including exploration of natural sources, synthetic pathways, and nanotechnology. Almost 50 natural products and around 140 synthetic derivatives, such as benzimidazoles, benzotriazoles, hydroxycinnamic acids, xanthones, triazines, among others, have been studied aiming the discovery of novel, effective, and safer future photoprotective agents. Herein, we provide the reader with an overview about UV filters’ challenges and prospects, offering a forward-looking to the next-generation of UV filters.

Elucidating the photoprotective properties of natural UV screening agents: ZEKE-PFI spectroscopy of methyl sinapate

As a prominent derivative of a natural sunscreen, methyl sinapate is an ideal candidate to provide fundamental insight into strategies on how to come to a rational design of artificial sunscreen filters with improved photoprotective properties. Here, static and time-resolved Zero Kinetic Energy-Pulsed Field Ionization (ZEKE-PFI) photoelectron spectroscopy has been used to study the spectroscopy and decay pathways of its electronically excited states. We find that different conformers are subject to distinct structural changes upon electronic excitation, and trace the structural changes that occur upon excitation back to the character of the LUMO. Ionization efficiency spectra in combination with pump-probe ZEKE-PFI spectra are consistent with the conclusion that the long-lived electronically excited state observed in the decay of the lowest excited singlet state is the lowest excited triplet state. Concurrently with providing information on the electronically excited states, the studies allow for a detailed characterization of the spectroscopic properties of the ground state of the radical ion, which is important in the context of the use of cinnamates in nature as antioxidants. Our studies determine the adiabatic ionization energies of the syn/cis, anti/cis and anti/trans conformers as 60 291.1 ± 0.5, 60 366.9 ± 0.5 and 60 503.9 ± 1.0 cm^-1, respectively, and provide accurate vibrational fequencies of low-frequency modes of the molecular ion in its electronic ground state. Finally, the studies emphasize the important role of vibrational and electronic autoionization processes that start to dominate the ionization dynamics in non-rigid molecules of the present size.

Predicting Molecular Photochemistry Using Machine-Learning-Enhanced Quantum Dynamics Simulations

The processes which occur after molecules absorb light underpin an enormous range of fundamental technologies and applications, including photocatalysis to enable new chemical transformations, sunscreens to protect against the harmful effects of UV overexposure, efficient photovoltaics for energy generation from sunlight, and fluorescent probes to image the intricate details of complex biomolecular structures. Reflecting this broad range of applications, an enormously versatile set of experiments are now regularly used to interrogate light-driven chemical dynamics, ranging from the typical ultrafast transient absorption spectroscopy used in many university laboratories to the inspiring central facilities around the world, such as the next-generation of X-ray free-electron lasers.Computer simulations of light-driven molecular and material dynamics are an essential route to analyzing the enormous amount of transient electronic and structural data produced by these experimental sources. However, to date, the direct simulation of molecular photochemistry remains a frontier challenge in computational chemical science, simultaneously demanding the accurate treatment of molecular electronic structure, nuclear dynamics, and the impact of nonadiabatic couplings.To address these important challenges and to enable new computational methods which can be integrated with state-of-the-art experimental capabilities, the past few years have seen a burst of activity in the development of "direct" quantum dynamics methods, merging the machine learning of potential energy surfaces (PESs) and nonadiabatic couplings with accurate quantum propagation schemes such as the multiconfiguration time-dependent Hartree (MCTDH) method. The result of this approach is a new generation of direct quantum dynamics tools in which PESs are generated in tandem with wave function propagation, enabling accurate "on-the-fly" simulations of molecular photochemistry. These simulations offer an alternative route toward gaining quantum dynamics insights, circumventing the challenge of generating ab initio electronic structure data for PES fitting by instead only demanding expensive energy evaluations as and when they are needed.In this Account, we describe the chronological evolution of our own contributions to this field, focusing on describing the algorithmic developments that enable direct MCTDH simulations for complex molecular systems moving on multiple coupled electronic states. Specifically, we highlight active learning strategies for generating PESs during grid-based quantum chemical dynamics simulations, and we discuss the development and impact of novel diabatization schemes to enable direct grid-based simulations of photochemical dynamics; these developments are highlighted in a series of benchmark molecular simulations of systems containing multiple nuclear degrees of freedom moving on multiple coupled electronic states. We hope that the ongoing developments reported here represent a major step forward in tools for modeling excited-state chemistry such as photodissociation, proton and electron transfer, and ultrafast energy dissipation in complex molecular systems.

Unravelling the Photoprotection Properties of Garden Cress Sprout Extract

Plants, as with humans, require photoprotection against the potentially damaging effects of overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Previously, sinapoyl malate (SM) was identified as the photoprotective agent in thale cress. Here, we seek to identify the photoprotective agent in a similar plant, garden cress, which is currently used in the skincare product Detoxophane nc. To achieve this, we explore the photodynamics of both the garden cress sprout extract and Detoxophane nc with femtosecond transient electronic absorption spectroscopy. With the assistance of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry, we determine that the main UV-absorbing compound in garden cress sprout extract is SM. Importantly, our studies reveal that the photoprotection properties of the SM in the garden cress sprout extract present in Detoxophane nc are not compromised by the formulation environment. The result suggests that Detoxophane nc containing the garden cress sprout extract may offer additional photoprotection to the end user in the form of a UV filter booster.

Towards developing novel and sustainable molecular light-to-heat converters

Light-to-heat conversion materials generate great interest due to their widespread applications, notable exemplars being solar energy harvesting and photoprotection. Another more recently identified potential application for such materials is in molecular heaters for agriculture, whose function is to protect crops from extreme cold weather and extend both the growing season and the geographic areas capable of supporting growth, all of which could help reduce food security challenges. To address this demand, a new series of phenolic-based barbituric absorbers of ultraviolet (UV) radiation has been designed and synthesised in a sustainable manner. The photophysics of these molecules has been studied in solution using femtosecond transient electronic and vibrational absorption spectroscopies, allied with computational simulations and their potential toxicity assessed by in silico studies. Following photoexcitation to the lowest singlet excited state, these barbituric absorbers repopulate the electronic ground state with high fidelity on an ultrafast time scale (within a few picoseconds). The energy relaxation pathway includes a twisted intramolecular charge-transfer state as the system evolves out of the Franck–Condon region, internal conversion to the ground electronic state, and subsequent vibrational cooling. These barbituric absorbers display promising light-to-heat conversion capabilities, are predicted to be non-toxic, and demand further study within neighbouring application-based fields.

The synthesis and photophysical properties of phenolic barbiturics are reported. These molecules convert absorbed ultraviolet light to heat with high fidelity and may be suitable for inclusion in foliar sprays to boost crop protection and production.

Determining the photostability of avobenzone in sunscreen formulation models using ultrafast spectroscopy

Avobenzone is an ultraviolet (UV) filter that is often included in sunscreen formulations despite its lack of photostability. Its inclusion is necessary due to few existing alternatives for photoprotection in the UVA region (320-400 nm). To better understand and predict the photostability of avobenzone, ultrafast transient electronic absorption spectroscopy (TEAS) has been used to study the effects of solvent (including emollients), concentration and skin surface temperature on its excited-state relaxation mechanism, following photoexcitation with UVA radiation (∼350 nm). Subtle differences between the excited-state lifetimes were found between the systems, but the TEAS spectral features were qualitatively the same for all solution and temperature combinations. Alongside TEAS measurements, UV filter/emollient blends containing avobenzone were irradiated using simulated solar light and their degradation tracked using steady-state UV-visible spectroscopy. Sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) assessments were also carried out on representative oil phases (higher concentration blends), which could be used to formulate oil-in-water sunscreens. It was found that there was an apparent concentration dependence on the long-term photoprotective efficacy of these mixtures, which could be linked to the ultrafast photodynamics by the presence of a ground-state bleach offset. This combination of techniques shows potential for correlating long-term behaviours (minutes to hours) of avobenzone with its ultrafast photophysics (femtoseconds to nanoseconds), bridging the gap between fundamental photophysics/photochemistry and commercial sunscreen design.

Diethyl sinapate-grafted cellulose nanocrystals as nature-inspired UV filters in cosmetic formulations

Inspired by nature’s photoprotection mechanisms, we report an effective UV-blocking nanomaterial based on diethyl sinapate-grafted cellulose nanocrystals (CNC-DES). The colloidal stability and UV-blocking performance of CNC-DES in aqueous glycerol (a common humectant in petroleum-free cosmetic formulations) and in a commercially available moisturizing cream were studied. Grafting the water-insoluble DES onto CNCs renders it dispersible in these water-based formulations, thanks to the excellent water-dispersibility of CNC nanoparticles. Glycerol dispersions containing 0.1 to 1.5 wt% CNC-DES display very high UV-blocking activity owing to the anti-UV DES moieties anchored onto CNCs. A facial cream blended with 1.5 wt% CNC-DES exhibits an SPF of 5.03, which is higher than a commercially available sunscreen with the same active ingredient concentration (SPF = 3.84). DPPH radical scavenging assay also showed the antioxidant potential of CNC-DES, albeit coinciding with a significant reduction in antioxidant activity after grafting DES onto CNCs. Cytotoxicity measurements revealed the CNC-DES not to cause significant cytotoxicity to murine fibroblast cells after 24 h of exposure. Overall, CNC-DES exhibits strong anti-UV and antioxidant properties and is water-dispersible, biocompatible, non-greasy, and lightweight. This study demonstrates the exceptional potential of DES-grafted CNCs as nature-inspired UV filters in the next generation of cosmetic formulations, including those for sensitive skins.

Mechanistic Aspects of the Photophysics of UVA Filters Based on Meldrum Derivatives

Skin photoprotection against UVA radiation is crucial, but it is hindered by the sparsity of approved commercial UVA filters. Sinapoyl malate (SM) derivatives are promising candidates for a new class of UVA filters. They have been previously identified as an efficient photoprotective sunscreen in plants due to their fast nonradiative energy dissipation. Combining experimental and computational results, in our previous letter (J. Phys. Chem. Lett. 2021, 12, 337-344) we showed that coumaryl Meldrum (CMe) and sinapoyl Meldrum (SMe) are outstanding candidates for UVA filters in sunscreen formulations. Here, we deliver a comprehensive computational characterization of the excited-state dynamics of these molecules. Using reaction pathways and excited-state dynamics simulations, we could elucidate the photodeactivation mechanism of these molecules. Upon photoexcitation, they follow a two-step logistic decay. First, an ultrafast and efficient relaxation stabilizes the excited state alongside a 90° twisting around the allylic double bond, giving rise to a minimum with a twisted intramolecular excited-state (TICT) character. From this minimum, internal conversion to the ground state occurs after overcoming a 0.2 eV barrier. Minor differences in the nonradiative decay and fluorescence of CMe and SMe are associated with an additional minimum present only in the latter.

Sinapic Acid and Sinapate Esters in Brassica: Innate Accumulation, Biosynthesis, Accessibility via Chemical Synthesis or Recovery From Biomass, and Biological Activities

Sinapic acid (SinA) and corresponding esters are secondary metabolites abundantly found in plants of Brassica family. Belonging to the family of p-hydroxycinnamic acids, SinA and its esters analogues are present in different plant parts and involved in multiple biological processes in planta. Moreover, these metabolites are also found in relatively large quantities in agro-industrial wastes. Nowadays, these metabolites are increasingly drawing attention due to their bioactivities which include antioxidant, anti-microbial, anti-cancer and UV filtering activities. As a result, these metabolites find applications in pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food industries. In this context, this article reviews innate occurrence, biosynthesis, accessibility via chemical synthesis or direct extraction from agro-industrial wastes. Biological activities of SinA and its main corresponding esters will also be discussed.

Classification and Effects of Symmetry of Mechanical Structure and Its Application in Design

Symmetry widely exists in natural objects and man-made objects. Mechanical structures, as man-made objects, have the property of symmetry without exception. The existence of symmetry affects the function and performance of mechanical products. Therefore, on the basis of analyzing a large number of examples and referring to the Schoenflies symbol of crystal, the symmetry of mechanical structures is divided into point group symmetry and space group symmetry, and these two types are further subdivided according to the types and spatial positions of the symmetry elements. Then, the general effects of symmetry are summarized according to symmetry types and functions, and several symmetry rules for design are further refined. Finally, after defining the requirements of speed change and technology background, a multispeed device for bicycle shaft drive is proposed by applying symmetry knowledge comprehensively.

Substitution effect on the nonradiative decay and trans → cis photoisomerization route: a guideline to develop efficient cinnamate-based sunscreens

Cinnamate derivatives are very useful as UV protectors in nature and as sunscreen reagents in daily life. They convert harmful UV energy to thermal energy through effective nonradiative decay (NRD) including trans → cis photoisomerization. However, the mechanism is not simple because different photoisomeirzation routes have been observed for different substituted cinnamates. Here, we theoretically examined the substitution effects at the phenyl ring of methylcinnamate (MC), a non-substituted cinnamate, on the electronic structure and the NRD route involving trans → cis isomerization based on time-dependent density functional theory. A systematic reaction pathway search using the single-component artificial force-induced reaction method shows that the very efficient photoisomerization route of MC can be essentially described as "1ππ* (trans) → 1nπ* → T1 (3ππ*) → S0 (trans or cis)". We found that for efficient 1ππ* (trans) → 1nπ* internal conversion (IC), MC should have the substituent at the appropriate position of the phenyl ring to stabilize the highest occupied π orbital. Substitution at the para position of MC slightly lowers the 1ππ* state energy and photoisomerization occurs via a slightly less efficient "1ππ* (trans) → 3nπ* → T1 (3ππ*) → S0 (trans or cis)" pathway. Substitution at the meta or ortho positions of MC significantly lowers the 1ππ* state energy so that the energy barrier of IC (1ππ* → 1nπ*) becomes very high. This substitution leads to a much longer 1ππ* state lifetime than that of MC and para-substituted MC, and a change in the dominant photoisomerization route to "1ππ* (trans) → C[double bond, length as m-dash]C bond twisting on 1ππ* → S0 (trans or cis)". As a whole, the "1ππ* → 1nπ*" IC observed in MC is the most important initial step for the rapid change of UV energy to thermal energy. We also found that the stabilization of the π orbital (i) minimizes the energy gap between 1ππ* and 1nπ* at the 1ππ* minimum and (ii) makes the 0-0 level of 1ππ* higher than 1nπ* as observed in MC. These MC-like relationships between the 1ππ* and 1nπ* energies should be ideal to maximize the "1ππ* → 1nπ*" IC rate constant according to Marcus theory.

New Generation UV-A Filters: Understanding Their Photodynamics on a Human Skin Mimic

The sparsity of efficient commercial ultraviolet-A (UV-A) filters is a major challenge toward developing effective broadband sunscreens with minimal human- and eco-toxicity. To combat this, we have designed a new class of Meldrum-based phenolic UV-A filters. We explore the ultrafast photodynamics of coumaryl Meldrum, CMe, and sinapyl Meldrum (SMe), both in an industry-standard emollient and on a synthetic skin mimic, using femtosecond transient electronic and vibrational absorption spectroscopies and computational simulations. Upon photoexcitation to the lowest excited singlet state (S₁), these Meldrum-based phenolics undergo fast and efficient nonradiative decay to repopulate the electronic ground state (S₀). We propose an initial ultrafast twisted intramolecular charge-transfer mechanism as these systems evolve out of the Franck-Condon region toward an S₁/S₀ conical intersection, followed by internal conversion to S₀ and subsequent vibrational cooling. Importantly, we correlate these findings to their long-term photostability upon irradiation with a solar simulator and conclude that these molecules surpass the basic requirements of an industry-standard UV filter.

Grafting Nature-Inspired and Bio-Based Phenolic Esters onto Cellulose Nanocrystals Gives Biomaterials with Photostable Anti-UV Properties

New nature-inspired and plant-derived p-hydroxycinnamate esters and p-hydroxycinnamate diesters provide excellent protection against UV radiation when incorporated into a matrix. Herein, an efficient and sustainable pathway is reported to graft these phenolic compounds onto cellulose nanocrystals (CNCs) via click-type copper-catalyzed azide/alkyne cycloaddition (CuAAC) reaction. The successful grafting of the phenolic esters on CNC surface was evidenced by a range of chemical analyses, and the degrees of substitution (DS) of the CNC were found to depend on the structure of the phenolic ester grafted. Moreover, aqueous suspensions of the phenolic ester-grafted CNCs not only strongly absorb in both the UVA and UVB regions, but they also exhibit average to very high photostability. Their wide spectrum UV-absorbing properties and their stability upon exposure to UV are highly influenced by the structure of the phenolic ester, particularly by the extra ester group in p-hydroxycinnamate diesters. These findings demonstrate that cellulose nanocrystals decorated with such plant-derived and nature-inspired phenolic esters are promising sustainable nanomaterials for anti-UV applications.

On the IR spectroscopy and chemometric based rapid and non-destructive method for the investigation of sunscreen stains: Application in forensic science

Cosmetic products such as sunscreens may often be encountered in forensic investigations as traces left on tissue paper, apparels, drinkware, painted exterior, or various alternative surfaces. The pilot study aimed at efficiently using Infrared spectroscopy coupled with chemometrics to cater to unbiased, rapid, and non-destructive identification of sunscreens which will aid various forensic investigations soon. In the present research, a total of 109 sunscreen samples were analyzed using Attenuated Total Reflectance Fourier Transform Infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy. The physicochemical data from the FTIR instrument was then subjected to principal component analysis (PCA), which successfully distinguished most of the samples based on their spectral information. The trained model resulted in clear segregation of unknown sunscreen samples. This could provide an outstanding level of confidence during the conduction of 'questioned versus known' comparisons of similar sunscreens and will give the details of the manufacturer, thereby, helping in rounding off the suspects.

Computational and experimental characterization of novel ultraviolet filters

Many current ultraviolet filters present potential hazards both to humans and to the natural environment. As such there is a new impetus to develop, through intimate characterisation, ultraviolet filters for use in cosmeceuticals. Here we report a new class of organic molecules which have a strong absorption band across the ultraviolet-A and -B regions of the electromagnetic spectrum and high photostability. We have performed ultrafast transient electronic absorption spectroscopy and steady-state spectroscopies, alongside computational studies to track and manipulate photoprotection mechanisms. Our results present a potentially new generation of ultraviolet filters for use in commercial formulations.

Reinvestigating the Photoprotection Properties of a Mycosporine Amino Acid Motif

With the growing concern regarding commercially available ultraviolet (UV) filters damaging the environment, there is an urgent need to discover new UV filters. A family of molecules called mycosporines and mycosporine-like amino acids (referred to as MAAs collectively) are synthesized by cyanobacteria, fungi and algae and act as the natural UV filters for these organisms. Mycosporines are formed of a cyclohexenone core structure while mycosporine-like amino acids are formed of a cyclohexenimine core structure. To better understand the photoprotection properties of MAAs, we implement a bottom-up approach by first studying a simple analog of an MAA, 3-aminocyclohex-2-en-1-one (ACyO). Previous experimental studies on ACyO using transient electronic absorption spectroscopy (TEAS) suggest that upon photoexcitation, ACyO becomes trapped in the minimum of an S₁ state, which persists for extended time delays (>2.5 ns). However, these studies were unable to establish the extent of electronic ground state recovery of ACyO within 2.5 ns due to experimental constraints. In the present studies, we have implemented transient vibrational absorption spectroscopy (as well as complementary TEAS) with Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and density functional theory to establish the extent of electronic ground state recovery of ACyO within this time window. We show that by 1.8 ns, there is >75% electronic ground state recovery of ACyO, with the remaining percentage likely persisting in the electronic excited state. Long-term irradiation studies on ACyO have shown that a small percentage degrades after 2 h of irradiation, plausibly due to some of the aforementioned trapped ACyO going on to form a photoproduct. Collectively, these studies imply that a base building block of MAAs already displays characteristics of an effective UV filter.

Exploring the Photochemistry of an Ethyl Sinapate Dimer: An Attempt Toward a Better Ultraviolet Filter

The photochemistry and photostability of a potential ultraviolet (UV) radiation filter, dehydrodiethylsinapate, with a broad absorption in the UVA region, is explored utilizing a combination of femtosecond time-resolved spectroscopy and steady-state irradiation studies. The time-resolved measurements show that this UV filter candidate undergoes excited state relaxation after UV absorption on a timescale of ~10 picoseconds, suggesting efficient relaxation. However, steady-state irradiation measurements show degradation under prolonged UV exposure. From a photochemical standpoint, this highlights the importance of considering both the ultrafast and “ultraslow” timescales when designing new potential UV filters.

Unravelling the Photoprotective Mechanisms of Nature-Inspired Ultraviolet Filters Using Ultrafast Spectroscopy

There are several drawbacks with the current commercially available ultraviolet (UV) filters used in sunscreen formulations, namely deleterious human and ecotoxic effects. As a result of the drawbacks, a current research interest is in identifying and designing new UV filters. One approach that has been explored in recent years is to use nature as inspiration, which is the focus of this review. Both plants and microorganisms have adapted to synthesize their own photoprotective molecules to guard their DNA from potentially harmful UV radiation. The relaxation mechanism of a molecule after it has been photoexcited can be unravelled by several techniques, the ones of most interest for this review being ultrafast spectroscopy and computational methods. Within the literature, both techniques have been implemented on plant-, and microbial-inspired UV filters to better understand their photoprotective roles in nature. This review aims to explore these findings for both families of nature-inspired UV filters in the hope of guiding the future design of sunscreens.

Sinapic Acid Esters: Octinoxate Substitutes Combining Suitable UV Protection and Antioxidant Activity

In 2021, Hawaii will permanently ban the use and sale of octinoxate-based sunscreens as studies have shown serious impacts of such UV filters on the coral reef. This ban, which could be generalized to other countries, highlights the extreme need to offer alternative UV filters that are not only effective in terms of sun protection, but also healthy with regards to human health and the environment. In this context, a wide library of p-hydroxycinnamic esters deriving from naturally occurring sinapic acid has been synthesized using a Knoevenagel–Doebner condensation. The UV filtering activities as well as the antioxidant properties of these sinapic acid esters were then investigated. The results showed promising UVB protection and antioxidant efficacy. A Structure–Activity Relationship (SAR) study on the sinapic acid esters highlighted the need of a free phenol to, as expected, observe antioxidant activity, but also to obtain a higher intensity of protection. Moreover, the nature of the ester moiety also proved to be a key structural feature for the UV absorbance, as higher steric hindrance on the ester moiety leads to more active compounds. The judicious structural design of sinapic esters thus provides promising compounds combining UV protection and antioxidant activity.

Innovative Bio-Based Organic UV-A and Blue Light Filters from Meldrum's Acid

Faced with the ban of some organic UV filters such as octinoxate or avobenzone, especially in Hawaii, it became essential to offer new alternatives that are both renewable and safe for humans and the environment. In this context, a class of bio-based molecules displaying interesting UV filter properties and great (photo)stability has been developed from Meldrum's acid and bio-based and synthetic p-hydroxycinnamic acids, furans and pyrroles. Moreover, p-hydroxycinnamic acid-based Meldrum's derivatives possess valuable secondary activities sought by the cosmetic industry such as antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase properties. The evaluation of the properties of mixture of judiciously chosen Meldrum's acid derivatives highlighted the possibility to modulate secondary activity while maintaining excellent UV protection. Meldrum's acid derivatives are not only competitive when benchmarked against organic filters currently on the market (i.e., avobenzone), but they also do not exhibit any endocrine disruption activity.

Sustainable Synthesis of p-Hydroxycinnamic Diacids through Proline-Mediated Knoevenagel Condensation in Ethanol: An Access to Potent Phenolic UV Filters and Radical Scavengers

p-Hydroxycinnamic diacids are reaction intermediates of the classical Knoevenagel–Doebner condensation between malonic acid and benzaldehydes. As they are generally obtained in low yields, they remain relatively under-studied and under-exploited. Herein, we developed and optimized a sustainable synthetic procedure allowing the production of these compounds in good to high yields (60–80%) using proline as the catalyst and ethanol as the solvent. Study of their antioxidant and anti-UV activities revealed that these p-hydroxycinnamic diacids were not only potent radical scavengers but also efficient UV filters exhibiting high photostability.

Electronic State and Photophysics of 2-Ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate as UV-B Sunscreen under Jet-Cooled Condition

The title compound, 2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (2EH4MC), is known as a typical ingredient of sunscreen cosmetics that effectively converts the absorbed UV-B light to thermal energy. This energy conversion process includes the nonradiative decay (NRD): trans-cis isomerization and finally going back to the original structure with a release of thermal energy. In this study, we performed UV spectroscopy for jet-cooled 2EH4MC to investigate the electronic/geometrical structures as well as the NRD mechanism. Laser-induced-fluorescence (LIF) spectroscopy gave the well-resolved vibronic structure of the S₁-S₀ transition; UV-UV hole-burning (HB) spectroscopy and density functional theory (DFT) calculations revealed the presence of syn and anti isomers, where the methoxy (-OCH₃) groups orient in opposite directions to each other. Picosecond UV-UV pump-probe spectroscopy revealed the NRD process from the excited singlet (S₁ (¹ππ*)) state occurs at a rate constant of ∼10¹⁰-10¹¹ s^-1, attributed to internal conversion (IC) to the ¹nπ* state. Nanosecond UV-deep UV (DUV) pump-probe spectroscopy identified a transient triplet (T₁ (³ππ*)) state, whose energy (from S₀) and lifetime are 18 400 cm^-1 and 20 ns, respectively. These results demonstrate that the photoisomerization of 2EH4MC includes multistep internal conversions and intersystem crossings, described as "S₁ (trans, ¹ππ*) → ¹nπ* → T₁ (³ππ*) → S₀ (cis)".