Involvement of photooxidation of melanogenic precursors in prolonged pigmentation induced by ultraviolet A

2-Mercaptonicotinoyl glycine prevents UV-induced skin darkening and delayed tanning in healthy subjects: A randomized controlled clinical study

BACKGROUND

Chronic nonextreme sun exposure induces two mechanisms of skin pigmentation, causing immediate darkening and delayed tanning. A new molecule, 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG), has been shown in vitro to inhibit both immediate darkening and new melanin synthesis via covalent conjugation of the thiol group of 2-MNG to melanin precursors.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate 2-MNG in preventing both mechanisms in vivo.

METHODS

In a randomized, intra-individual and controlled study, 33 subjects with melanin-rich skin were exposed to UV daylight on designated areas on the back and treated with a cosmetic formula containing 0.5% or 1% 2-MNG alone or 0.5% 2-MNG in association with lipohydroxy acid (LHA, 0.3%) plus Mexoryl-SX (MSX, 1.5%). The respective vehicles were used as controls and 4-n-butyl-resorcinol (4-n-BR, 2.5%) as a positive reference.

RESULTS

2-MNG alone significantly reduced immediate darkening and inhibited new melanin production when compared with vehicle, with higher performance at 1% than at 0.5%. 2-MNG at 0.5% in association with LHA and MSX showed significantly higher performance than 2-MNG 0.5% alone. 2-MNG at 0.5% and 1% showed significantly better performance than 4-n-BR.

CONCLUSIONS

2-MNG inhibited both UV-induced skin pigmentation mechanisms in vivo. The association of 2-MNG with LHA plus MSX showed the highest efficacy on melanin-rich skin with pigmentation induced by UV exposure.

A Bayesian network meta-analysis of 14 molecules inhibiting UV daylight-induced pigmentation

INTRODUCTION

Hyperpigmentation disorders are very frequent, affect the quality of life and may become a psychological burden for afflicted patients. Many anti-pigmenting or depigmenting agents are available with various efficacy and almost no comparative data. 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) was recently proposed as a viable candidate showing safe and effective results on hyperpigmentation control in vitro and in vivo.

OBJECTIVES

A Bayesian network meta-analysis (BNMA) was conducted to map and rank the anti-pigmenting and depigmenting efficacy of 2-MNG 0.5% on UV daylight (UVDL)-induced pigmentation together with 13 other reference molecules. A comparison in the kinetics of 2-MNG 0.5% was also performed.

METHODOLOGY

Fourteen studies were conducted, for each, on 15-30 women of skin phototype III in Shanghai, China and Paris, France. The products were applied on mini zone, in randomized and blinded protocol, on the back, 5 days a week during 6 weeks, at a dose of 4 mg/cm2 . During the second week, volunteers were exposed under to varying minimum erythemal dose of UVDL during 4 consecutive days-adapted to obtain a similar induction of skin pigmentation regardless of the population. Assessments were performed instrumentally using Chromameter®. Ascorbic acid 7% was used as a positive control for all experiments. A Bayesian network meta-analysis was then established to map and follow the kinetics of 2-MNG 0.5% performance with 13 reference molecules (glutathione 2%, kojic acid 1%, hydroquinone 4%, ascorbyl glucoside 2%, niacinamide 4%, etc.).

RESULTS

2-MNG 0.5% dominated the ranking at all time points with a significant high probability of strong efficacy against UVDL-induced pigmentation. Ascorbic acid 7% ranks second after 4 days of irradiations (D12 ) whereas hydroquinone 4% ranks second 1 month after irradiations (D40 ). In the kinetics, 2-MNG at 0.5% was effective as from the end of irradiations (D12 ) to the study endpoint (D40 ). This suggested an immediate and persistent efficacy across all timepoints evaluated.

CONCLUSION

The BNMA revealed a rapid and lasting efficacy of 2-MNG 0.5% on the anti-pigmenting and depigmenting phases of the clinical protocol. 2-MNG 0.5% ranked first, with immediate and lasting effect compared to 13 other references. This study is the first allowing comparison between reference anti-pigmenting and depigmenting agents and will help clinicians for proposing the most effective approach for their patients.

In Vitro Evaluation of Skin-Related Physicochemical Properties and Biological Activities of Astaxanthin Isomers

Dietary astaxanthin exists predominantly as the all-E-isomer; however, certain amounts of the Z-isomers are universally present in the skin, whose roles remain largely unknown. The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of the astaxanthin E/Z-isomer ratio on skin-related physicochemical properties and biological activities using human dermal fibroblasts and B16 mouse melanoma cells. We revealed that astaxanthin enriched in Z-isomers (total Z-isomer ratio = 86.6%) exhibited greater UV-light-shielding ability and skin antiaging and skin-whitening activities, such as anti-elastase and anti-melanin formation activities, than the all-E-isomer-rich astaxanthin (total Z-isomer ratio = 3.3%). On the other hand, the all-E-isomer was superior to the Z-isomers in singlet oxygen scavenging/quenching activity, and the Z-isomers inhibited type I collagen release into the culture medium in a dose-dependent manner. Our findings help clarify the roles of astaxanthin Z-isomers in the skin and would help in the development of novel skin health-promoting food ingredients.

Z-Isomers of lycopene and β-carotene exhibit greater skin-quality improving action than their all-E-isomers

Although most carotenoids in fruits and vegetables exist as the all-E-isomers, several carotenoids accumulated in the skin exist as the Z-isomers. However, the differences in the skin-related biological activities of the all-E- and Z-isomers are largely unknown. This study investigated the effects of E/Z-isomer ratios of lycopene and β-carotene on their ultraviolet (UV)-light-shielding ability and skin-related biological activities (i.e., antioxidant, skin anti-aging, and skin-whitening activities). Z-Isomer-rich lycopene and β-carotene were prepared by thermal isomerization of their all-E-isomers, i.e., the total Z-isomer ratios of lycopene and β-carotene were 97.7 and 89.0%, respectively. The Z-isomers exhibited higher UV-A- and UV-B-shielding abilities and greater skin-related biological activities (e.g., anti-elastase activity, hyaluronic acid production-promoting effect, anti-melanin formation activity, and inhibitory activity for melanin precursor darkening) in several assays than the all-E-isomers. These findings may contribute to understanding the significance of carotenoid Z-isomers in the skin and developing food ingredients that promote skin health.

Multiphoton FLIM Analyses of Native and UVA-Modified Synthetic Melanins

To better understand the impact of solar light exposure on human skin, the chemical characterization of native melanins and their structural photo-modifications is of central interest. As the methods used today are invasive, we investigated the possibility of using multiphoton fluorescence lifetime (FLIM) imaging, along with phasor and bi-exponential fitting analyses, as a non-invasive alternative method for the chemical analysis of native and UVA-exposed melanins. We demonstrated that multiphoton FLIM allows the discrimination between native DHI, DHICA, Dopa eumelanins, pheomelanin, and mixed eu-/pheo-melanin polymers. We exposed melanin samples to high UVA doses to maximize their structural modifications. The UVA-induced oxidative, photo-degradation, and crosslinking changes were evidenced via an increase in fluorescence lifetimes along with a decrease in their relative contributions. Moreover, we introduced a new phasor parameter of a relative fraction of a UVA-modified species and provided evidence for its sensitivity in assessing the UVA effects. Globally, the fluorescence lifetime properties were modulated in a melanin-dependent and UVA dose-dependent manner, with the strongest modifications being observed for DHICA eumelanin and the weakest for pheomelanin. Multiphoton FLIM phasor and bi-exponential analyses hold promising perspectives for in vivo human skin mixed melanins characterization under UVA or other sunlight exposure conditions.

The Damaging Effects of Long UVA (UVA1) Rays: A Major Challenge to Preserve Skin Health and Integrity

Within solar ultraviolet (UV) light, the longest UVA1 wavelengths, with significant and relatively constant levels all year round and large penetration properties, produce effects in all cutaneous layers. Their effects, mediated by numerous endogenous chromophores, primarily involve the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The resulting oxidative stress is the major mode of action of UVA1, responsible for lipid peroxidation, protein carbonylation, DNA lesions and subsequent intracellular signaling cascades. These molecular changes lead to mutations, apoptosis, dermis remodeling, inflammatory reactions and abnormal immune responses. The altered biological functions contribute to clinical consequences such as hyperpigmentation, inflammation, photoimmunosuppression, sun allergies, photoaging and photocancers. Such harmful impacts have also been reported after the use of UVA1 phototherapy or tanning beds. Furthermore, other external aggressors, such as pollutants and visible light (Vis), were shown to induce independent, cumulative and synergistic effects with UVA1 rays. In this review, we synthetize the biological and clinical effects of UVA1 and the complementary effects of UVA1 with pollutants or Vis. The identified deleterious biological impact of UVA1 contributing to clinical consequences, combined with the predominance of UVA1 rays in solar UV radiation, constitute a solid rational for the need for a broad photoprotection, including UVA1 up to 400 nm.

Timeline of the Development of Skin-Lightening Active Ingredients in Japan

Japanese pharmaceutical cosmetics, often referred to as quasi-drugs, contain skin-lightening active ingredients formulated to prevent sun-induced pigment spots and freckles. Their mechanisms of action include suppressing melanin production in melanocytes and promoting epidermal growth to eliminate melanin more rapidly. For example, arbutin and rucinol are representative skin-lightening active ingredients that inhibit melanin production, and disodium adenosine monophosphate and dexpanthenol are skin-lightening active ingredients that inhibit melanin accumulation in the epidermis. In contrast, oral administration of vitamin C and tranexamic acid in pharmaceutical products can lighten freckles and melasma, and these products are more effective than quasi-drugs. On the basis of their clinical effectiveness, skin-lightening active ingredients can be divided into four categories according to their effectiveness and adverse effects. This review discusses academic research and development regarding skin-lightening ingredients in Japan.

Spatiotemporal Control of Melanin Synthesis in Liquid Droplets

Melanins are natural biopolymers that have remarkable properties including UV-protection, coloration, and antioxidant activity. Their biosynthesis is regulated both spatially and temporally and involves supramolecular templating and compartmentalization of enzymes and reactants within specialized organelles called melanosomes. In contrast, the laboratory-based bulk synthesis of melanin by tyrosine or dopamine oxidation is a poorly controlled process, resulting in materials with undefined properties. Inspired by the pigment's biosynthesis, we developed a methodology to spatiotemporally regulate melanin formation in liquid droplets. The spatial control is achieved by sequestration of the reaction in dextran-rich droplets of a polyethylene glycol/dextran aqueous two-phase system, where the use of a photocleavable protected tyrosine provides a temporal control over its enzymatic oxidation-polymerization. We show that the liquid droplets allow for confined local reactivity as they serve as reaction centers for melanin synthesis and compartmentalize the melanin product. This methodology opens tremendous opportunities for applications in skincare and biomedicine.

A new visible light absorbing organic filter offers superior protection against pigmentation by wavelengths at the UVR-visible boundary region

Skin pigmentation by solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR; ~295-400 nm) is well established. More recently, visible light (VL; 400-740 nm) has been shown to induce rapid pigmentation. Such pigmentation is thought to be caused by oxidative stress, which has associations with skin cancer and photoageing. However, the UVR-VL boundary region has been less well studied. The lower back of healthy Fitzpatrick skin type II-IV individuals was irradiated with increasing doses of narrow-band 385 nm and 405 nm radiation. Pigmentation change was measured immediately, 6 h and 24 h post-irradiation using two reflectance spectroscopy devices and visual grading. Pigmentation was dose-dependently increased in all skin types and time points for both spectra. Two sunscreens, both labelled SPF 15 and UVA protective in the EU and USA (but with different Boots star rating in the UK, 2* vs 5*) were compared. Their formulations were the same apart from the addition of a new organic filter bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) piperazine (BDBP) that absorbs between 350 and 425 nm. The product that lacked BDBP provided minimal protection against pigmentation, but its addition provided almost complete protection. This demonstrates the needs to improve photoprotection at the UVR-visible border and for sunscreens to act as neutral density filters.

Oxidative stress in the skin: Impact and related protection

Skin, our first interface to the external environment, is subjected to oxidative stress caused by a variety of factors such as solar ultraviolet, infrared and visible light, environmental pollution, including ozone and particulate matters, and psychological stress. Excessive reactive species, including reactive oxygen species and reactive nitrogen species, exacerbate skin pigmentation and aging, which further lead to skin tone unevenness, pigmentary disorder, skin roughness and wrinkles. Besides these, skin microbiota are also a very important factor ensuring the proper functions of skin. While environmental factors such as UV and pollutants impact skin microbiota compositions, skin dysbiosis results in various skin conditions. In this review, we summarize the generation of oxidative stress from exogenous and endogenous sources. We further introduce current knowledge on the possible roles of oxidative stress in skin pigmentation and aging, specifically with emphasis on oxidative stress and skin pigmentation. Meanwhile, we summarize the science and rationale of using three well-known antioxidants, namely vitamin C, resveratrol and ferulic acid, in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Finally, we discuss the strategy for preventing oxidative stress-induced skin pigmentation and aging.

The Aqueous Extract of Polypodium leucotomos (Fernblock®) Regulates Opsin 3 and Prevents Photooxidation of Melanin Precursors on Skin Cells Exposed to Blue Light Emitted from Digital Devices

The effects of sun exposure on the skin and specifically those related to pigmentation disorders are well known. It has recently been shown that blue light leads to the induction of oxidative stress and long-lasting pigmentation. The protective effect of an aqueous extract of Polypodium leucotomos (Fernblock^®) is known. Our aim was to investigate the action mechanism of Fernblock^® against pigmentation induced by blue light from digital devices. Human fibroblasts (HDF) and murine melanocytes (B16-F10) were exposed to artificial blue light (a 400–500 nm LED lamp). Cell viability, mitochondrial morphology, and the expression of the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) p38, known markers involved in the melanogenesis pathway, were evaluated. The activation of Opsin-3, a membrane protein sensitive to blue light that triggers the activation of the enzyme tyrosinase responsible for melanogenesis in melanocytes, was also analyzed. Our results demonstrated that pretreatment with Fernblock^® prevents cell death, alteration of mitochondrial morphology, and phosphorylation of p38 in HDF exposed to blue light. In addition, Fernblock^® significantly reduced the activation of Opsin-3 in melanocytes and the photo-oxidation of melanin, preventing its photodegradation. In sum, Fernblock^® exerts beneficial effects against the detrimental impact of blue light from digital devices and could prevent early photoaging, while maintaining skin homeostasis.

Melanogenic Difference Consideration in Ethnic Skin Type: A Balance Approach Between Skin Brightening Applications and Beneficial Sun Exposure

Human skin demonstrates a striking variation in tone and color that is evident among multiple demographic populations. Such characteristics are determined predominantly by the expression of the genes controlling the quantity and quality of melanin, which can alter significantly due to the presence of small nucleotide polymorphism affecting various steps of the melanogenesis process and generally linked to the lighter skin phenotypes. Genetically determined, constitutive skin color is additionally complemented by the facultative melanogenesis and tanning responses; with high levels of melanin and melanogenic factors broadly recognized to have a protective effect against the UVR-induced molecular damage in darker skin. Long-term sun exposure, together with a genetic makeup responsible for the ability to tan or the activity of constitutive melanogenic factors, triggers defects in pigmentation across all ethnic skin types. However, sun exposure also has well documented beneficial effects that manifest at both skin homeostasis and the systemic level, such as synthesis of vitamin D, which is thought to be less efficient in the presence of high levels of melanin or potentially linked to the polymorphism in the genes responsible for skin darkening triggered by UVR. In this review, we discuss melanogenesis in a context of constitutive pigmentation, defined by gene polymorphism in ethnic skin types, and facultative pigmentation that is not only associated with the capacity to protect the skin against photo-damage but could also have an impact on vitamin D synthesis through gene polymorphism. Modulating the activities of melanogenic genes, with the focus on the markers specifically altered by polymorphism combined with differential requirements of sun exposure in ethnic skin types, could enhance the applications of already existing skin brightening factors and provide a novel approach toward improved skin tone and health in personalized skincare.

Protective Effect of the Aqueous Extract of Deschampsia antarctica (EDAFENCE®) on Skin Cells against Blue Light Emitted from Digital Devices

Skin is being increasingly exposed to artificial blue light due to the extensive use of electronic devices. This, together with recent observations reporting that blue light—also known as high-energy visible light—can exert cytotoxic effects associated with oxidative stress and promote hyperpigmentation, has sparked interest in blue light and its potential harmful effects on skin. The photoprotective properties of new extracts of different botanicals with antioxidant activity are therefore being studied. Deschampsia antarctica (Edafence^®, EDA), a natural aqueous extract, has shown keratinocyte and fibroblast cell protection effects against ultraviolet radiation and dioxin toxicity. In this regard, we studied the protective capacity of EDA against the deleterious effects of artificial blue light irradiation in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) and melanocytes. We analyzed the impact of EDA on viability, cell morphology, oxidative stress, melanogenic signaling pathway activation and hyperpigmentation in HDF and melanocytes subjected to artificial blue light irradiation. Our results show that EDA protects against cell damage caused by artificial blue light, decreasing oxidative stress, melanogenic signaling pathway activation and hyperpigmentation caused by blue light irradiation. All these findings suggest that EDA might help prevent skin damage produced by artificial blue light exposure from screen of electronic devices.

The potential role of antioxidants in mitigating skin hyperpigmentation resulting from ultraviolet and visible light-induced oxidative stress

Oxidative stress is an integral element that influences a variety of biochemical reactions throughout the body and is known to play a notable role in melanogenesis. Exogenous triggers of oxidative stress, such as ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and visible light (VL), lead to pigment formation through somewhat different pathways, but both share a common endpoint-the potential to generate cosmetically undesirable hyperpigmentation. Though organic and inorganic sunscreens are available to protect against the UVR portion of the electromagnetic spectrum, coverage is lacking to protect against the VL spectrum. In this manuscript, we review the phases of tanning, pathways of melanogenesis triggered by UVR and VL, and the associated impact of oxidative stress. We also discuss the known intrinsic mechanisms and paracrine regulation of melanocytes that influence their response to UVR. Understanding these mechanisms and their role in UVR-induced hyperpigmentation should potentially lead to identification of useful targets that can be coupled with antioxidant therapy to alleviate this effect.

Clinical and Biological Characterization of Skin Pigmentation Diversity and Its Consequences on UV Impact

Skin color diversity is the most variable and noticeable phenotypic trait in humans resulting from constitutive pigmentation variability. This paper will review the characterization of skin pigmentation diversity with a focus on the most recent data on the genetic basis of skin pigmentation, and the various methodologies for skin color assessment. Then, melanocyte activity and amount, type and distribution of melanins, which are the main drivers for skin pigmentation, are described. Paracrine regulators of melanocyte microenvironment are also discussed. Skin response to sun exposure is also highly dependent on color diversity. Thus, sensitivity to solar wavelengths is examined in terms of acute effects such as sunburn/erythema or induced-pigmentation but also long-term consequences such as skin cancers, photoageing and pigmentary disorders. More pronounced sun-sensitivity in lighter or darker skin types depending on the detrimental effects and involved wavelengths is reviewed.

Topical silymarin versus hydroquinone in the treatment of melasma: A comparative study

BACKGROUND

Melasma is a highly prevalent hyperpigmentation disorder with a high relapsing rate and a negative impact on the psychological state of the affected patients. The exact pathogenesis of melasma is not completely elucidated; however, ultraviolet induced oxidative stress has an important role in its pathogenesis. Silymarin, antioxidant drug, reduces the harmful effects of solar ultraviolet radiation such as inflammation, immune responses, DNA damage, and pigmentation.

OBJECTIVES

To assess the efficacy and safety of topical silymarin with different concentrations (0.7% and 1.4%) versus hydroquinone 4% in the treatment of melasma.

METHODS

Forty-two adult female patients with melasma were assigned to three equal groups each containing 14 patients; group1 was treated by silymarin 0.7% cream, group 2 was treated by silymarin 1.4% cream and group 3 was treated by hydroquinone 4% cream. The duration of treatment was 3 months.

RESULTS

MASI score was significantly reduced in all groups at the end of third month; however, there were no significant differences in the therapeutic response between the three studied groups. No side effects were recorded with silymarin, while hydroquinone was associated with significant adverse effects.

CONCLUSIONS

Silymarin cream might serve as an effective and safe treatment modality for melasma.

The Late Stages of Melanogenesis: Exploring the Chemical Facets and the Application Opportunities

In the last decade, the late stages of melanin biosynthesis involving the oxidative polymerization of 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI) and 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) have been extensively investigated. Most of the information derived from a biomimetic approach in which the oxidation of melanogenic indoles was carried out under conditions mimicking those occurring in the biological environment. Characterization of the early oligomers allowed for drawing a structural picture of DHI and DHICA melanins, providing also an interpretative basis for the different properties exhibited by these pigments, e.g., the chromophore and the antioxidant ability. The improved knowledge has opened new perspectives toward the exploitation of the unique chemistry of melanins and its precursors in cosmetic and health care applications. A noticeable example is the development of an innovative hair dyeing system that is based on the marked ease of DHI to give rise to black melanin on air oxidation under slightly alkaline conditions. The advantage of this method for a step-wise coverage of gray hair with a natural shade pigmentation on repeated treatment with a DHI-based formulation with respect to traditional dyes is presented. A variant of DHICA melanin combining solubility in water-miscible organic solvents, an intense chromophore in the UltraViolet-A UV-A region, and a marked antioxidant potency was evaluated as an ingredient for cosmetic formulations.

Heat shock antagonizes UVA-induced responses in murine melanocytes and melanoma cells: an unexpected interaction

The skin is under the influence of oscillatory factors such as light and temperature. This organ possesses a local system that controls several aspects in a time-dependent manner; moreover, the skin has a well-known set of opsins whose function is still unknown. We demonstrate that heat shock reduces Opn2 expression in normal Melan-a melanocytes, while the opposite effect is found in malignant B16-F10 cells. In both cell lines, UVA radiation increases the expression of Opn4 and melanin content. Clock genes and Xpa, a DNA repair gene, of malignant melanocytes are more responsive to UVA radiation when compared to normal cells. Most UVA-induced effects are antagonized by heat shock, a phenomenon shown for the first time. Based on our data, the heat produced during UV experiments should be carefully monitored since temperature represents, according to our results, an important confounding factor, and therefore it should, when possible, be dissociated from UV radiation. The responses displayed by murine melanoma cells, if proven to also take place in human melanoma, may represent an important step in cancer development and progression.

Photodegradation of Eumelanin and Pheomelanin and Its Pathophysiological Implications

Eumelanin is photoprotective for pigmented tissues while pheomelanin is phototoxic. In this review, we summarize current understanding of how eumelanin and pheomelanin structures are modified by ultraviolet A (UVA) and also by visible light and how reactive oxygen species participate in those processes. Alkaline hydrogen peroxide oxidation was employed to characterize eumelanin and benzothiazole-type pheomelanin, giving pyrrole-2,3,5-tricarboxylic acid (PTCA) and thiazole-2,4,5-tricarboxylic acid (TTCA), respectively. Reductive hydrolysis with hydroiodic acid gives 4-amino-3-hydroxyphenylalanine (4-AHP) from the benzothiazine moiety of pheomelanin. The results show that the photoaging of eumelanin gives rise to free PTCA (produced by peroxidation in situ) and pyrrole-2,3,4,5-tetracarboxylic acid (PTeCA, produced by cross-linking). The TTCA/4-AHP ratio increases with photoaging, indicating the conversion of benzothiazine to the benzothiazole moiety. Analysis of those markers and their ratios show that both eumelanin and pheomelanin in human retinal pigment epithelium melanosomes undergo extensive structural modifications due to their lifelong exposure to blue light. Using synthetic melanins, we also found that singlet oxygen, in addition to superoxide anions, is photogenerated and quenched upon UVA irradiation. The (patho)physiological significance of those findings is discussed in relation to the tanning process, to melanomagenesis in the skin and to age-related macular degeneration in the eyes.

Induction of retinal-dependent calcium influx in human melanocytes by UVA or UVB radiation contributes to the stimulation of melanosome transfer

OBJECTIVES

The transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to neighbouring keratinocytes is critical to protect the skin from the deleterious effects of ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation; however, the initial factor(s) that stimulates melanosome transfer remains unclear. In this study, we investigated the induction of retinal-dependent calcium (Ca²⁺ ) influx in melanocytes (MCs) by UVA or UVB irradiation and the effect of transient receptor potential cation channel subfamily M member 1 (TRPM1) (melastatin1)-related Ca²⁺ influx on melanosome transfer.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Primary human epidermal MCs were exposed to physiological doses of UVB or UVA light and loaded with a calcium indicator Fluo-4 dye. The change of intracellular calcium of MCs was monitored using a two-photon confocal fluorescence microscopy. MCs were co-cultured with human epidermal keratinocytes (KCs) in the absence or presence of voriconazole (a TRPM1 blocker) or calcium chelators. MCs were also transfected with TRPM1 siRNA for silencing the expression of TRPM1 gene. The melanosome transfer in the co-cultured cells was quantitatively analysed using flow cytometry and was further confirmed by immunofluorescent double-staining. The protein levels and distributions of TRPM1, OPN3 and OPN5 in MCs were measured by Western blotting or immunofluorescent staining.

RESULTS

The retinal-dependent Ca²⁺ influx of UVA-exposed melanocytes differed greatly from that of UVB-exposed melanocytes in the timing-phase. The protein expression of TRPM1 in mono- and co-cultured MCs was dose-dependently up-regulated by UVA and UVB. TRPM1 siRNA-mediated knockdown and the blockage of TRPM1 channel using a putative antagonist (voriconazole) significantly inhibited melanosome transfer in co-cultures following UVA or UVB exposure.

CONCLUSIONS

The distinct time-phases of Ca²⁺ influx in MCs induced by UVA or UVB contribute to the consecutive stimulation of melanosome transfer, thereby providing a potent photoprotection against harmful UV radiation.

Roles of reactive oxygen species in UVA-induced oxidation of 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid-melanin as studied by differential spectrophotometric method

Eumelanin photoprotects pigmented tissues from ultraviolet (UV) damage. However, UVA-induced tanning seems to result from the photooxidation of preexisting melanin and does not contribute to photoprotection. We investigated the mechanism of UVA-induced degradation of 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA)-melanin taking advantage of its solubility in a neutral buffer and using a differential spectrophotometric method to detect subtle changes in its structure. Our methodology is suitable for examining the effects of various agents that interact with reactive oxygen species (ROS) to determine how ROS is involved in the UVA-induced oxidative modifications. The results show that UVA radiation induces the oxidation of DHICA to indole-5,6-quinone-2-carboxylic acid in eumelanin, which is then cleaved to form a photodegraded, pyrrolic moiety and finally to form free pyrrole-2,3,5-tricarboxylic acid. The possible involvement of superoxide radical and singlet oxygen in the oxidation was suggested. The generation and quenching of singlet oxygen by DHICA-melanin was confirmed by direct measurements of singlet oxygen phosphorescence.

Protective and therapeutic effects of fucoxanthin against sunburn caused by UV irradiation

Mild exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is also harmful and hazardous to the skin and often causes a photosensitivity disorder accompanied by sunburn. To understand the action of UV on the skin we performed a microarray analysis to isolate UV-sensitive genes. We show here that UV irradiation promoted sunburn and downregulated filaggrin (Flg); fucoxanthin (FX) exerted a protective effect. In vitro analysis showed that UV irradiation of human dermal fibroblasts caused production of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) without cellular toxicity. ROS production was diminished by N-acetylcysteine (NAC) or FX, but not by retinoic acid (RA). In vivo analysis showed that UV irradiation caused sunburn and Flg downregulation, and that FX, but not NAC, RA or clobetasol, exerted a protective effect. FX stimulated Flg promoter activity in a concentration-dependent manner. Flg promoter deletion and chromatin immunoprecipitation analysis showed that caudal type homeo box transcription factor 1 (Cdx1) was a key factor for Flg induction. Cdx1 was also downregulated in UV-exposed skin. Therefore, our data suggested that the protective effects of FX against UV-induced sunburn might be exerted by promotion of skin barrier formation through induction of Flg, unrelated to quenching of ROS or an RA-like action.

The Glutathione Derivative, GSH Monoethyl Ester, May Effectively Whiten Skin but GSH Does Not

Glutathione in its reduced form (GSH) is an antioxidant and also is involved in pheomelanin formation. Thus, it has been long believed that GSH has a skin whitening effect. However, its actual or direct effect is unproven. We evaluated the anti-melanogenic effects of GSH and its derivatives in vitro. We examined change of melanogenesis and its related proteins by GSH itself and its derivatives, including GSH monoethyl ester (GSH-MEE), GSH diethyl ester (GSH-DEE) and GSH monoisopropyl ester (GSH-MIPE) in Melan-A cells, Mel-Ab cells, and B16F10 cells. GSH and GSH-MEE did not display cytotoxic activity, but GSH-MIPE and GSH-DEE did. Intriguingly, GSH itself had no inhibitory effect on melanin production or intracellular tyrosinase activity. Rather, it was GSH-MEE and GSH-MIPE that profoundly reduced the amount of melanin and intracellular tyrosinase activity. Thus, GSH-MEE was selected as a suitable candidate skin-whitening agent and it did not alter melanogenesis-associated proteins such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2, but it did increase the amount of suggested pheomelanin and suggested pheomelanin/eumelanin ratio. GSH-MEE was effective for anti-melanogenesis, whereas GSH itself was not. GSH-MEE could be developed as a safe and efficient agent for the treatment of hyperpigmentation skin disorders.

Visible Light Induces Melanogenesis in Human Skin through a Photoadaptive Response

Visible light (400–700 nm) lies outside of the spectral range of what photobiologists define as deleterious radiation and as a result few studies have studied the effects of visible light range of wavelengths on skin. This oversight is important considering that during outdoors activities skin is exposed to the full solar spectrum, including visible light, and to multiple exposures at different times and doses. Although the contribution of the UV component of sunlight to skin damage has been established, few studies have examined the effects of non-UV solar radiation on skin physiology in terms of inflammation, and limited information is available regarding the role of visible light on pigmentation. The purpose of this study was to determine the effect of visible light on the pro-pigmentation pathways and melanin formation in skin. Exposure to visible light in ex-vivo and clinical studies demonstrated an induction of pigmentation in skin by visible light. Results showed that a single exposure to visible light induced very little pigmentation whereas multiple exposures with visible light resulted in darker and sustained pigmentation. These findings have potential implications on the management of photo-aggravated pigmentary disorders, the proper use of sunscreens, and the treatment of depigmented lesions.

p21-activated kinase 4 critically regulates melanogenesis via activation of the CREB/MITF and β-catenin/MITF pathways

p21-activated kinase 4 (PAK4) regulates a wide range of cellular events, including cytoskeletal remodeling, cell growth, and survival. Our previous study identified PAK4 as a key regulator of cAMP-response element-binding protein (CREB) that acts upstream of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), a master transcription factor in melanogenesis. We therefore investigated the role of PAK4 in melanogenesis. Melanocytes express both PAK2 and PAK4 isoforms, but only RNA interference knockdown of PAK4 significantly influenced α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells. Consistent with this result, PAK4 inhibition by PF3758309, a potent ATP-competitive inhibitor of PAKs, suppressed not only α-MSH-induced melanogenesis in B16 melanoma and human epithelial melanocyte cells but also UVB-induced melanogenesis in the skin of melanin-possessing hairless mice (HRM-2) in a dose-dependent manner. Inhibition of PAK4 over several days markedly decreased the levels of CREB, MITF, and tyrosinase in both HRM-2 mice and B16 melanoma cells. Moreover, PAK4 knockdown and inhibition suppressed α-MSH-stimulated β-catenin phosphorylation at serine 675 (S675) but enhanced phosphorylation at S33/37, an indicator for ubiquitination-dependent proteolysis. Together, our results provide evidence that PAK4 promotes α-MSH/UVB-induced melanogenesis via the CREB and Wnt/β-catenin signaling pathways and suggest that PAK4 may be a potential therapeutic target in pigmentation disorders.

Skin-whitening and skin-condition-improving effects of topical oxidized glutathione: a double-blind and placebo-controlled clinical trial in healthy women

Purpose

Glutathione is a tripeptide consisting of cysteine, glycine, and glutamate and functions as a major antioxidant. It is synthesized endogenously in humans. Glutathione protects thiol protein groups from oxidation and is involved in cellular detoxification for maintenance of the cell environment. Reduced glutathione (GSH) has a skin-whitening effect in humans through its tyrosinase inhibitory activity, but in the case of oxidized glutathione (GSSG) this effect is unclear. We examined the skin-whitening and skin-condition effects of topical GSSG in healthy women.

Subjects and methods

The subjects were 30 healthy adult women aged 30 to 50 years. The study design was a randomized, double-blind, matched-pair, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Subjects applied GSSG 2% (weight/weight [w/w]) lotion to one side of the face and a placebo lotion to the other side twice daily for 10 weeks. We objectively measured changes in melanin index values, moisture content of the stratum corneum, smoothness, wrinkle formation, and elasticity of the skin. The principal investigator and each subject also used subjective scores to investigate skin whitening, wrinkle reduction, and smoothness. Analysis of variance was used to evaluate differences between groups.

Results

The skin melanin index was significantly lower with GSSG treatment than with placebo from the early weeks after the start of the trial through to the end of the study period (at 10 weeks, P<0.001). In addition, in the latter half of the study period GSSG-treated sites had significant increases in moisture content of the stratum corneum, suppression of wrinkle formation, and improvement in skin smoothness. There were no marked adverse effects from GSSG application.

Conclusion

Topical GSSG is safe and effectively whitens the skin and improves skin condition in healthy women.

Oxidative stress status in patients with melasma

BACKGROUND

Melasma is an acquired skin disease characterized clinically by development of gray-brown macules or patches. The lesions have geographic borders and most often seen on face and less frequently on the neck and forearms. Pathogenesis has not been completely understood yet. Although the disease constitutes a very disturbing cosmetic problem, it has not obtained an efficient treatment. There were not any studies in the literature that evaluates the role of oxidative stress in melasma.

OBJECTIVES

The evaluation of the role of oxidative stress in melasma.

METHODS

Fifty melasma patients and 50 healthy volunteers were included in the study. The diagnosis was made clinically and the patients were evaluated by Melasma Area Severity Index. Superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px) enzyme activities and malondialdehyde, nitric oxide, protein carbonyl levels were measured both in the melasma group and the control group.

RESULTS

SOD and GSH-Px enzyme activities were significantly higher in the patient group in comparison with the control group (p < 0.001). Protein carbonyl levels were significantly lower in the patient group (p < 0.001).

CONCLUSION

The results show that the balance between oxidant and anti-oxidants was disrupted and the oxidative stress increased in melasma. These results improve the understanding of etiology-pathogenesis of the disease and its treatment.

Melanins and melanogenesis: methods, standards, protocols

Despite considerable advances in the past decade, melanin research still suffers from the lack of universally accepted and shared nomenclature, methodologies, and structural models. This paper stems from the joint efforts of chemists, biochemists, physicists, biologists, and physicians with recognized and consolidated expertise in the field of melanins and melanogenesis, who critically reviewed and experimentally revisited methods, standards, and protocols to provide for the first time a consensus set of recommended procedures to be adopted and shared by researchers involved in pigment cell research. The aim of the paper was to define an unprecedented frame of reference built on cutting-edge knowledge and state-of-the-art methodology, to enable reliable comparison of results among laboratories and new progress in the field based on standardized methods and shared information.

UVA-induced oxidative degradation of melanins: fission of indole moiety in eumelanin and conversion to benzothiazole moiety in pheomelanin

Eumelanin is photoprotective while pheomelanin is phototoxic to pigmented tissues. Ultraviolet A (UVA)-induced tanning seems to result from the photooxidation of pre-existing melanin and contributes no photoprotection. However, data available for melanin biodegradation remain limited. In this study, we first examined photodegradation of eumelanin and pheomelanin in human black hairs and found that the ratio of Free (formed by peroxidation in situ) to Total (after hydrogen peroxide oxidation) pyrrole-2,3,5-tricarboxylic acid (PTCA) increases with hair aging, indicating fission of the dihydroxyindole moiety. In red hair, the ratio of thiazole-2,4,5-tricarboxylic acid (TTCA) to 4-amino-3-hydroxyphenylalanine (4-AHP) increases with aging, indicating the conversion from benzothiazine to benzothiazole moiety. These photodegradation of melanins were confirmed by UVA (not UVB) irradiation of melanins from mice and human hairs and synthetic eumelanin and pheomelanin. These results show that both eumelanin and pheomelanin degrade by UVA and that Free/Total PTCA and TTCA/4-AHP ratios serve as sensitive indicators of photodegradation.

Melanoma induction by ultraviolet A but not ultraviolet B radiation requires melanin pigment

Malignant melanoma of the skin (CMM) is associated with ultraviolet radiation exposure, but the mechanisms and even the wavelengths responsible are unclear. Here we use a mammalian model to investigate melanoma formed in response to precise spectrally defined ultraviolet wavelengths and biologically relevant doses. We show that melanoma induction by ultraviolet A (320-400 nm) requires the presence of melanin pigment and is associated with oxidative DNA damage within melanocytes. In contrast, ultraviolet B radiation (280-320 nm) initiates melanoma in a pigment-independent manner associated with direct ultraviolet B DNA damage. Thus, we identified two ultraviolet wavelength-dependent pathways for the induction of CMM and describe an unexpected and significant role for melanin within the melanocyte in melanomagenesis.

Shining light on skin pigmentation: the darker and the brighter side of effects of UV radiation

The term barrier function as applied to human skin often connotes the physical properties of this organ that provides protection from its surrounding environment. This term does not generally include skin pigmentation. However, skin pigmentation, which is the result of melanin produced in melanocytes residing in the basal layer of the skin and exported to the keratinocytes in the upper layers, serves equally important protective function. Indeed, changes in skin pigmentation are often the most readily recognized indicators of exposure of skin to damaging agents, especially to natural and artificial radiation in the environment. Several recent studies have shed new light on (1) the mechanisms involved in selective effects of subcomponents of UV radiation on human skin pigmentation and (2) the interactive influences between keratinocytes and melanocytes, acting as "epidermal melanin unit," that manifest as changes in skin pigmentation in response to exposure to various forms of radiation. This article provides a concise review of our current understanding of the effects of the nonionizing solar radiation, at cellular and molecular levels, on human skin pigmentation.

Investigating the role of melanin in UVA/UVB- and hydrogen peroxide-induced cellular and mitochondrial ROS production and mitochondrial DNA damage in human melanoma cells

Skin cancer incidence is dramatically increasing worldwide, with exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) a predominant factor. The UVA component initiates oxidative stress in human skin, although its exact role in the initiation of skin cancer, particularly malignant melanoma, remains unclear and is controversial because there is evidence for a melanin-dependent mechanism in UVA-linked melanoma studies. Nonpigmented (CHL-1, A375), moderately pigmented (FM55, SKmel23), and highly pigmented (FM94, hyperpigmented FM55) human melanoma cell lines have been used to investigate UVA-induced production of reactive oxygen species using FACS analysis, at both the cellular (dihydrorhodamine-123) and the mitochondrial (MitoSOX) level, where most cellular stress is generated. For the first time, downstream mtDNA damage (utilizing a quantitative long-PCR assay) has been investigated. Using UVA, UVB, and H(2)O(2) as cellular stressors, we have explored the dual roles of melanin as a photoprotector and photosensitizer. The presence of melanin has no influence over cellular oxidative stress generation, whereas, in contrast, melanin protects against mitochondrial superoxide generation and mtDNA damage (one-way ANOVA with post hoc Tukey's analysis, P<0.001). We show that if melanin binds directly to DNA, it acts as a direct photosensitizer of mtDNA damage during UVA irradiation (P<0.001), providing evidence for the dual roles of melanin.

1-(2,4-Dihydroxyphenyl)-3-(2,4-dimethoxy-3-methylpheny)propane inhibits melanin synthesis by dual mechanisms

BACKGROUND

1-(2,4-Dihydroxyphenyl)-3-(2,4-dimethoxy-3-methylpheny)propane (DP) was reported as a novel tyrosinase inhibitor by Nesterov et al. In previous study, we showed that DP is an antioxidant and accelerates the fading of UVB-induced tan in human skin but details of inhibiting mechanism of DP in melanogenesis remain incomplete.

OBJECTIVE

To clarify additional mechanisms of DP inhibition of melanogenesis, we studied the effect of DP on tyrosinase processing and degradation.

METHODS

Tyrosinase inhibition was assessed using mushroom and human tyrosinase. The effect of DP on mRNA and protein levels as well as glycosylation and degradation of tyrosinase was examined using normal human epidermal melanocytes (NHEM).

RESULTS

DP was 200 times more potent than that of kojic acid in inhibiting mushroom tyrosinase activity. In contrast, DP (IC(50)=200μM) was significantly less effective at inhibiting tyrosinase from NHEM. DP decreased melanin content in cultured NHEM after 7th day (IC(50)=10μM). The IC(50) for DP against human tyrosinase activity was found to be at least 20 times higher than that of melanin synthesis. At a non-cytotoxic concentration DP did not decrease tyrosinase mRNA however protein level decreased by 46% after 48h treatment. DP did not alter the ratio of mature and immature tyrosinase assayed by endo H cleavage. Tyrosinase degradation assays revealed that DP accelerated tyrosinase degradation in NHEM.

CONCLUSIONS

We found that DP acts through dual mechanisms to reduce melanin synthesis; by inhibition of tyrosinase activity via an anti-oxidant effect, and, more importantly, by the acceleration of tyrosinase degradation.

The deceptive nature of UVA tanning versus the modest protective effects of UVB tanning on human skin

The relationship between human skin pigmentation and protection from ultraviolet (UV) radiation is an important element underlying differences in skin carcinogenesis rates. The association between UV damage and the risk of skin cancer is clear, yet a strategic balance in exposure to UV needs to be met. Dark skin is protected from UV-induced DNA damage significantly more than light skin owing to the constitutively higher pigmentation, but an as yet unresolved and important question is what photoprotective benefit, if any, is afforded by facultative pigmentation (i.e. a tan induced by UV exposure). To address that and to compare the effects of various wavelengths of UV, we repetitively exposed human skin to suberythemal doses of UVA and/or UVB over 2 weeks after which a challenge dose of UVA and UVB was given. Although visual skin pigmentation (tanning) elicited by different UV exposure protocols was similar, the melanin content and UV-protective effects against DNA damage in UVB-tanned skin (but not in UVA-tanned skin) were significantly higher. UVA-induced tans seem to result from the photooxidation of existing melanin and its precursors with some redistribution of pigment granules, while UVB stimulates melanocytes to up-regulate melanin synthesis and increases pigmentation coverage, effects that are synergistically stimulated in UVA and UVB-exposed skin. Thus, UVA tanning contributes essentially no photoprotection, although all types of UV-induced tanning result in DNA and cellular damage, which can eventually lead to photocarcinogenesis.

Quasi-drugs developed in Japan for the prevention or treatment of hyperpigmentary disorders

Excess production of melanin or its abnormal distribution, or both, can cause irregular hyperpigmentation of the skin, leading to melasma and age spots. To date, various quasi-drugs that prevent or improve hyperpigmentary disorders have been developed and officially approved by the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare of Japan. Many of these inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme required for melanin synthesis, for example, by competitive or non-competitive inhibition of its catalytic activity, by inhibiting its maturation, or by accelerating its degradation. In this review, we categorize the quasi-drugs developed in Japan to prevent or treat hyperpigmentary disorders, or both, and discuss perspectives for future development.

Regulation of human skin pigmentation in situ by repetitive UV exposure: molecular characterization of responses to UVA and/or UVB

UV radiation is a major environmental factor that affects pigmentation in human skin and can eventually result in various types of UV-induced skin cancers. The effects of various wavelengths of UV on melanocytes and other types of skin cells in culture have been studied, but little is known about gene expression patterns in situ following in situ exposure of human skin to different types of UV (UVA and/or UVB). Paracrine factors expressed by keratinocytes and/or fibroblasts that affect skin pigmentation might be regulated differently by UV, as might their corresponding receptors expressed on melanocytes. To test the hypothesis that different mechanisms are involved in the pigmentary responses of the skin to different types of UV, we used immunohistochemical and whole human genome microarray analyses to characterize human skin in situ to examine how melanocyte-specific proteins and paracrine melanogenic factors are regulated by repetitive exposure to different types of UV compared with unexposed skin as a control. The results show that gene expression patterns induced by UVA or UVB are distinct-UVB eliciting dramatic increases in a large number of genes involved in pigmentation as well as in other cellular functions, whereas UVA had little or no effect on these. The expression patterns characterize the distinct responses of the skin to UVA or UVB, and identify several potential previously unidentified factors involved in UV-induced responses of human skin.

Pigmentation effects of solar-simulated radiation as compared with UVA and UVB radiation

Different wavelengths of ultraviolet (UV) radiation elicit different responses in the skin. UVA induces immediate tanning and persistent pigment darkening through oxidation of pre-existing melanin or melanogenic precursors, while UVB induces delayed tanning which takes several days or longer to develop and requires activation of melanocytes. We compared the effects of a 2-week repetitive exposure of human skin to solar-simulated radiation (SSR), UVA or UVB at doses eliciting comparable levels of visible tanning and measured levels of melanins and melanin-related metabolites. Levels of eumelanin and pheomelanin were significantly higher in the order of SSR, UVB, UVA or unexposed control skin. Levels of free 5-S-cysteinyldopa (5SCD) were elevated about 4-fold in SSR- or UVB-exposed skin compared with UVA-exposed or control skin. Levels of protein-bound form of 5SCD tended to be higher in SSR- or UVB-exposed skin than in UVA-exposed or control skin. Total levels of 5-hydroxy-6-methoxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (5H6MI2C) and 6H5MI2C were higher in SSR- than in UVB-exposed or control skin. These results show that SSR is more effective in promoting delayed tanning than UVB radiation alone, suggesting a synergistic effect of UVA radiation. Furthermore, free 5SCD may serve as a good marker of the effect of SSR and UVB.