Spatial distribution of active compounds in stratum corneum-partitioning between corneocytes and lipid matrix

The interaction of active substances with molecular structures in stratum corneum (SC) is crucial for the efficacy and safety of cosmetic formulations and topical drugs. However, the molecular architecture of SC is highly complex and methods to unambiguously localize exogenous molecules within SC are lacking. Consequently, little is known about the distribution of actives within SC, and proposed penetration mechanisms through SC are typically limited to simple diffusion via a tortuous (lipid only) or transverse (across corneocytes and lipid matrix) pathway. In this work, 3D mass spectrometry imaging is used to determine the spatial distributions of four active substances at subcellular resolution in SC, including partitioning between the corneocytes and the intercellular lipid matrix. The results indicate that caffeine, 2-methyl resorcinol and oxybenzone are homogeneously distributed in the corneocytes but largely absent in the lipid matrix, despite considerable differences in lipophilicity. In contrast, the distribution- of jasmonic acid derivative is more inhomogeneous and indicates considerable localization to both the lipid phase and the corneocytes.

Epidermal barrier function in dry, flaky and sensitive skin: A narrative review

The stratum corneum (SC)-the outermost layer of the epidermis-is the principal permeability and protective barrier of the skin. Different components of the SC, including corneocytes, natural moisturizing factor, a variety of enzymes and their inhibitors, antimicrobial peptides and lipids, work interactively to maintain barrier function. The main barrier properties of the SC are the limitation of water loss and the prevention of infection and contact with potentially harmful exogenous factors. Although the SC functions consistently as a protective barrier throughout the body, variations in functions and morphology occur across body sites with age and skin type. Healthy SC function also depends on the interplay between the chemosensory barrier, the skin's microbiome and the innate immune system. Dysregulation of SC barrier function can lead to the development of skin disorders, such as dry, flaky or sensitive skin, but the complete underlying pathophysiology of these are not fully understood. This review provides insight into the current literature and emerging themes related to epidermal barrier changes that occur in the context of dry, flaky and sensitive skin. Additional studies are needed to further elucidate the underlying aetiology of dry, flaky and sensitive skin and to provide tailored treatment.

Solvent and Crystallization Effects on the Dermal Absorption of Hydrophilic and Lipophilic Compounds

This study probes the mechanisms by which volatile solvents (water, ethanol) and a nonionic surfactant (Triton X-100) influence the skin permeation of dissolved solutes following deposition of small doses onto unoccluded human skin. A secondary objective was to sharpen guidelines for the use of these and other simple solvent systems for dermal safety testing of cosmetic ingredients at finite doses. Four solutes were studied - niacinamide, caffeine, testosterone and geraniol - at doses close to that estimated to saturate the upper layers of the stratum corneum. Methods included tensiometry, visualization of spreading on skin, polarized light microscopy and in vitro permeation testing using radiolabeled solutes. Ethanol, aqueous ethanol and dilute aqueous Triton solutions all yielded surface tensions below 36 mN/m, allowing them to spread easily on the skin, unlike water (72.4 mN/m) which did not spread. Deposition onto skin of niacinamide (32 μg·cm-2) or caffeine (3.2 μg·cm-2) from water and ethanol led to crystalline deposits on the skin surface, whereas the same amounts applied from aqueous ethanol and 2 % Triton did not. Skin permeation of these compounds was inversely correlated to the extent of crystallization. A separate study with caffeine showed the absence of a dose-related skin permeability increase with Triton. Permeation of testosterone (8.2 μg·cm-2) was modestly increased when dosed from aqueous ethanol versus ethanol. Permeation of geraniol (2.9 μg·cm-2) followed the order aqueous ethanol > water ∼ 2 % Triton >> ethanol and was inversely correlated with evaporative loss. We conclude that, under the conditions tested, aqueous ethanol and Triton serve primarily as deposition aids and do not substantially disrupt stratum corneum lipids. Implications for the design of in vitro skin permeability tests are discussed.

Characterisation of topographical, biomechanical and maturation properties of corneocytes with respect to anatomical location

BACKGROUND

The Stratum Corneum (SC) is the first barrier of the skin. The properties of individual cells are crucial in understanding how the SC at different anatomical regions maintains a healthy mechanical barrier. The aim of the current study is to present a comprehensive description of the maturation and mechanical properties of superficial corneocytes at different anatomical sites in the nominal dry state.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Corneocytes were collected from five anatomical sites: forearm, cheek, neck, sacrum and medial heel of 10 healthy young participants. The surface topography was analysed using Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) and Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM). The level of positive-involucrin cornified envelopes (CEs) and desmoglein-1 (Dsg1) were used as indirect measures of immature CEs and corneodesmosomes, respectively. In addition, AFM nanoindentation and stress-relaxation experiments were performed to characterise the mechanical properties.

RESULTS

Volar forearm, neck and sacrum corneocytes presented similar topographies (ridges and valleys) and levels of Dsg1 (13-37%). In contrast, cheek cells exhibited circular nano-objects, while medial heel cells were characterized by villi-like structures. Additionally, medial heel samples also showed the greatest level of immature CEs (32-56%, p < 0.001) and Dsg1 (59-78%, p < 0.001). A large degree of inter-subject variability was found for the Young's moduli of the cells (0.19-2.03 GPa), which was correlated with the level of immature CEs at the cheek, neck and sacrum (p < 0.05).

CONCLUSION

It is concluded that a comprehensive study of the mechanical and maturation properties of corneocytes may be used to understand the barrier functions of the SC at different anatomical sites.

New Insights in Topical Drug Delivery for Skin Disorders: From a Nanotechnological Perspective

Skin, the largest organ in humans, is an efficient route for the delivery of drugs as it circumvents several disadvantages of the oral and parenteral routes. These advantages of skin have fascinated researchers in recent decades. Drug delivery via a topical route includes moving the drug from a topical product to a locally targeted region with dermal circulation throughout the body and deeper tissues. Still, due to the skin's barrier function, delivery through the skin can be difficult. Drug delivery to the skin using conventional formulations with micronized active components, for instance, lotions, gels, ointments, and creams, results in poor penetration. The use of nanoparticulate carriers is one of the promising strategies, as it provides efficient delivery of drugs through the skin and overcomes the disadvantage of traditional formulations. Nanoformulations with smaller particle sizes contribute to improved permeability of therapeutic agents, targeting, stability, and retention, making nanoformulations ideal for drug delivery through a topical route. Achieving sustained release and preserving a localized effect utilizing nanocarriers can result in the effective treatment of numerous infections or skin disorders. This article aims to evaluate and discuss the most recent developments of nanocarriers as therapeutic agent vehicles for skin conditions with patent technology and a market overview that will give future directions for research. As topical drug delivery systems have shown great preclinical results for skin problems, for future research directions, we anticipate including in-depth studies of nanocarrier behavior in various customized treatments to take into account the phenotypic variability of the disease.

Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare

BACKGROUND

This review covers the last 20 years of research we and our collaborators have conducted on ethnic differences in facial skin moisturization placed in historical context with previous research.

METHODS

We have focussed particularly on the biochemical and cellular gradients of the stratum corneum (SC) with the aim of discovering new skin moisturization and SC maturation mechanisms, identifying new technologies and/or providing conceptual innovations for ingredients that will improve our understanding and treatment of dry skin. Specifically, we discuss gradients for corneodesmosomes and proteases, corneocyte phenotype-inducing enzymes, filaggrin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and barrier lipids. These gradients are interdependent and influence greatly corneocyte maturation.

RESULTS

The interrelationship between corneodesmolysis and the covalent attachment of ω-hydroxy ceramides and ω-hydroxy fatty acids to the corneocyte protein envelope forming the corneocyte lipid envelope is especially relevant in our new understanding of mechanisms leading to dry skin. This process is initiated by a linoleoyl-ω-acyl ceramide transforming enzyme cascade including 12R lipoxygenase (12R-LOX), epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3), epoxide hydrolase 3 (EPHX3), short-chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7), ceramidase and transglutaminase 1.

CONCLUSION

Our research has opened the opportunity of using novel treatment systems for dry skin based on lipids, humectants, niacinamide and inhibitors of the plasminogen system. It is clear that skin moisturization is a more complex mechanism than simple skin hydration.

Changes in levels of omega-O-acylceramides and related processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facial stratum corneum in differently pigmented ethnic groups

INTRODUCTION

We report on the differences in ceramide composition and levels of omega-O-acylceramide processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facialstratum corneum (SC) among Albino African, Black African and Caucasian women living in South Africa.

METHODS

Tape strippings were taken from the sun-exposed cheek and the sunprotected postauricular site (PA). In two subsets proteomic (n = 18) and lipidomic (n = 24) analysis were performed using mass-spectrometry-based shotgun platforms.

RESULTS

No significant differences in total ceramide levels or ceramide subtypes were found between the Black African and Caucasian women in either the cheek or PA samples. Compared to the other two groups the levels of total ceramide as well as selected omega-O-acylceramide species were increased in Albino Africans. On the cheek, ceramide (CER) EOS, EOH along with CER AS were increased relative to the Caucasian women, while CER EOP and EOdS were elevated relative to the Black African women. Moreover, on the PA site CER EOP and EOdS were elevated compared with the Black African women and CER EOdS in Caucasians. Decreasesin masslevels of 12R-LOX and eLOX3 were observed on cheeks compared with the PA sites in all ethnic groups. On the PA sites 12R-LOX was particularly lower in the Albino Africans compared with the Black African and Caucasian women. On the cheeks mass levels of SDR9C7 was also lower in the Albino Africans.

CONCLUSION

The mass levels of the ceramides were similar between Black African and Caucasian women. However, elevated total ceramides and excessively elevated selected omega-O-acylceramides were apparent in the Albino African women. The findings in the Albino African women were unexpected as these participants suffer from impaired skin barrier function. However, the elevated levels omega-O-acylceramides can contribute to barrier insufficiency by directly impacting SC lipid phase behaviour and/or secondly elevated omegaO-acylceramide levels may indicate a reduced attachment of ceramides to the corneocyte lipid envelope and reduced corneocyte maturation that can also impair the barrier. Indeed, differences in the mass levels of omega-O-acylceramide processing enzymes were observed for 12R-LOX and SDR9C7 for the Albino Africans. This indicates a corneocyte lipid scaffold disorder in this population.

Topical drug delivery: History, percutaneous absorption, and product development

Topical products, widely used to manage skin conditions, have evolved from simple potions to sophisticated delivery systems. Their development has been facilitated by advances in percutaneous absorption and product design based on an increasingly mechanistic understanding of drug-product-skin interactions, associated experiments, and a quality-by-design framework. Topical drug delivery involves drug transport from a product on the skin to a local target site and then clearance by diffusion, metabolism, and the dermal circulation to the rest of the body and deeper tissues. Insights have been provided by Quantitative Structure Permeability Relationships (QSPR), molecular dynamics simulations, and dermal Physiologically Based PharmacoKinetics (PBPK). Currently, generic product equivalents of reference-listed products dominate the topical delivery market. There is an increasing regulatory interest in understanding topical product delivery behavior under 'in use' conditions and predicting in vivo response for population variations in skin barrier function and response using in silico and in vitro findings.

A unique mode of keratinocyte death requires intracellular acidification

The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost epidermal layer, consists of nonviable anuclear keratinocytes, called corneocytes, which function as a protective barrier. The exact modes of cell death executed by keratinocytes of the upper stratum granulosum (SG1 cells) remain largely unknown. Here, using intravital imaging combined with intracellular Ca²⁺- and pH-responsive fluorescent probes, we aimed to dissect the SG1 death process in vivo. We found that SG1 cell death was preceded by prolonged (∼60 min) Ca²⁺ elevation and rapid induction of intracellular acidification. Once such intracellular ionic changes were initiated, they became sustained, irreversibly committing the SG1 cells to corneocyte conversion. Time-lapse imaging of isolated murine SG1 cells revealed that intracellular acidification was essential for the degradation of keratohyalin granules and nuclear DNA, phenomena specific to SC corneocyte formation. Furthermore, intravital imaging showed that the number of SG1 cells exhibiting Ca²⁺ elevation and the timing of intracellular acidification were both tightly regulated by the transient receptor potential cation channel V3. The functional activity of this protein was confirmed in isolated SG1 cells using whole-cell patch-clamp analysis. These findings provide a theoretical framework for improved understanding of the unique molecular mechanisms underlying keratinocyte-specific death mode, namely corneoptosis.

Corneocytes: Relationship between Structural and Biomechanical Properties

BACKGROUND

Skin is the interface between an organism and the external environment, and hence the stratum corneum (SC) is the first to withstand mechanical insults that, in certain conditions, may lead to integrity loss and the development of pressure ulcers. The SC comprises corneocytes, which are vital elements to its barrier function. These cells are differentiated dead keratinocytes, without organelles, composed of a cornified envelope and a keratin-filled interior, and connected by corneodesmosomes (CDs).

SUMMARY

The current review focusses on the relationship between the morphological, structural, and topographical features of corneocytes and their mechanical properties, to understand how they assist the SC in maintaining skin integrity and in responding to mechanical insults. Key Messages: Corneocytes create distinct regions in the SC: the inner SC is characterized by immature cells with a fragile cornified envelope and a uniform distribution of CDs; the upper SC has resilient cornified envelopes and a honeycomb distribution of CDs, with a greater surface area and a smaller thickness than cells from the inner layer. The literature indicates that this upward maturation process is one of the most important steps in the mechanical resistance and barrier function of the SC. The morphology of these cells is dependent on the body site: the surface area in non-exposed skin is about 1,000-1,200 μm2, while for exposed skin, for example, the cheek and forehead, is about 700-800 μm2. Corneocytes are stiff cells compared to other cellular types, for example, the Young's modulus of muscle and fibroblast cells is typically a few kPa, while that of corneocytes is reported to be about hundreds of MPa. Moreover, these skin cells have 2 distinct mechanical regions: the cornified envelope (100-250 MPa) and the keratin matrix (250-500 MPa).

Effects of petrolatum, a petrolatum depositing body wash and a regular body wash on biomarkers and biophysical properties of the stratum corneum

BACKGROUND

An important trend in the personal care industry involves the development of body wash products that not only clean the skin without damage but deposit conditioning ingredients to improve skin barrier function.

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this study was to develop skin biomarker measures to quantify the treatment effects of body wash products.

METHODS

We employed analysis of structural proteins (keratin 1,10,11 and involucrin), a natural moisturizing factor (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) and an inflammatory mediator (IL-1ra/IL-1α) from adhesive discs with dry skin grading, TEWL and capacitance measurements to compare the effects of direct application of petrolatum, a high petrolatum depositing body wash, and a regular body wash on dry leg skin in a standard leg-wash treatment protocol.

RESULTS

High depositing body wash and petrolatum had positive effects on stratum corneum barrier function as judged by biomarker analysis, biophysical measurements and skin grading compared to the regular body wash product.

CONCLUSIONS

The results clearly indicate that a combination of biomarker and biophysical property measurements is effective for determining the skin benefits of moisturizing body wash products.

Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations

Age-related differences in maturation parameters of corneocyte envelopes (size, hydrophobicity and rigidity) were examined at several facial test sites in young and old female Caucasians. In addition, the effect of topically applied niacinamide on these parameters was evaluated in a 4-week placebo-controlled study.

The importance of 12R-lipoxygenase and transglutaminase activities in the hydration-dependent ex vivo maturation of corneocyte envelopes

Background

Terminally differentiated keratinocytes acquire corneocyte protein envelopes (CPE) complexed with corneocyte lipid envelopes (CLE). These two structural components of the corneocyte envelopes (CEs) undergo maturation by gaining in hydrophobicity, rigidity and surface area. Linoleoyl acylceramides are processed by 12R‐lipoxygenase (12R‐LOX) and other enzymes before transglutaminase (TG) attaches ω‐hydroxyceramides to involucrin in the CPE. Concurrently, structural proteins are cross‐linked by TG that has been activated by cathepsin D (CathD).

Objectives

The primary aim of this work was to demonstrate the impact of relative humidity (RH) during ex vivo CE maturation. Low, optimal and high RH were selected to investigate the effect of protease inhibitors (PIs) on CE maturation and TG activity; in addition, 12R‐LOX and CathD activity were measured at optimal RH. Finally, the effect of glycerol on ex vivo CE maturation was tested at low, optimal and high RH.

Methods

The first and ninth tape strip of photo‐exposed (PE) cheek and photo‐protected (PP) post‐auricular sites of healthy volunteers were selected. Ex vivo CE maturation was assessed via the relative CE maturity (RCEM) approach based on CE rigidity and hydrophobicity. The second and eighth tapes were exposed to RH in the presence of inhibitors.

Results

Irrespective of tape stripping depth, CEs from PE samples attained CE rigidity to the same extent as mature CEs from the PP site, but such improvement was lacking for CE hydrophobicity. 70% RH was optimal for ex vivo CE maturation. The inhibition of 12R‐LOX activity resulted in enhanced CE rigidity which was reduced by the TG inhibitor. CE hydrophobicity remained unchanged during ex vivo maturation in the presence of TG or 12R‐LOX inhibition. CE hydrophobicity was enhanced in the presence of glycerol at 44% RH and 100% RH but not at 70% RH. Furthermore, TG activity was significantly diminished at 100% RH compared to the commercial inhibitor LDN‐27219. However, a protease inhibitor mix reversed the negative effect of overhydration.

Conclusion

The study adds to the understanding of the roles of 12R‐LOX and TG activity in CE maturation and gives further insight into the effect of glycerol on the SC.

Protein kinases involved in epidermal barrier formation: The AKT family and other animals

Formation of a stratified epidermis is required for the performance of the essential functions of the skin; to act as an outside-in barrier against the access of microorganisms and other external factors, to prevent loss of water and solutes via inside-out barrier functions and to withstand mechanical stresses. Epidermal barrier function is initiated during embryonic development and is then maintained throughout life and restored after injury. A variety of interrelated processes are required for the formation of a stratified epidermis, and how these processes are both temporally and spatially regulated has long been an aspect of dermatological research. In this review, we describe the roles of multiple protein kinases in the regulation of processes required for epidermal barrier formation.

12R-lipoxygenase activity is reduced in photodamaged facial stratum corneum. A novel activity assay indicates a key function in corneocyte maturation

Background

During the late stage of keratinocyte differentiation, corneocytes gain a strong protein–lipid structure: the corneocyte envelopes (CE), composed of the inner corneocyte protein envelope (CPE) and the outer corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE). The hydrophobicity of CEs depends on the covalent attachment of linoleoyl‐acyl‐ceramides by transglutaminases (TG). These ceramides are processed by a range of other enzymes, including 12R‐lipoxygenase (12R‐LOX), before the covalent attachment of the free ω‐hydroxyceramides to the CPE surface to form the CLE. The mechanical strength of CE is obtained with the formation of isodipeptide bonds by TG. The increase in hydrophobicity and rigidity leads to CE maturation which supports the integrity and mechanical resistance of the stratum corneum (SC).

Objectives

The aim of this work was to develop and validate a novel enzyme activity assay for 12R‐LOX in tape strippings of photo‐exposed (PE) cheek and photo‐protected (PP) post‐auricular SC of healthy Chinese volunteers (n = 12; age 25 ± 3 years).

Results

A fluorescence‐based assay was developed with ethyl linoleic acid as the substrate and a polyclonal antibody against 12R‐LOX as an inhibitor. The specificity was shown by the lack of effect by a LOX inhibitor (ML351) and an epidermal‐type lipoxygenase 3 (eLOX3) antibody on the acquired 12R‐LOX activity. Reduced 12R‐LOX activity was observed in the outer compared to the inner SC layers. Moreover, dramatically lower activity was shown in the PE vs. PP samples. Furthermore, the enzyme activity has a positive correlation (r = 0.94 ± 0.03) with CE maturity, in particular hydrophobicity, and a negative correlation (r = −0.96 ± 0.01) with transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Conclusion

This novel enzyme assay revealed a lower 12R‐LOX activity in tape strippings from PE cheek for the first time. This finding is in line with less mature CEs and higher TEWL compared to PP post‐auricular samples. This study indicates a strong link between 12R‐LOX activity and CE maturation and SC integrity.

A new approach to assess the effect of photodamage on corneocyte envelope maturity using combined hydrophobicity and mechanical fragility assays

BACKGROUND

The maturity of the corneocyte envelope (CE) provides information about the barrier functionality of the stratum corneum (SC). Corneocytes are enclosed by the CE, a protein-lipid matrix, contributing to mechanical resistance and hydrophobicity of the SC.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of the work was to develop a novel and robust approach to characterize CE maturity based on rigidity, hydrophobicity and surface area. This offers an alternative approach to the Nile red staining and antigenicity of involucrin to characterize the CE. The photoexposed (PE) cheek and photoprotected (PP) post-auricular sites were selected for investigation.

METHODS

Nine tape strips were obtained from the cheek and post-auricular sites of healthy Caucasians. CEs on the first and last tape strip were subjected to sonication to assess rigidity, and Nile red staining to determine hydrophobicity per unit surface area. In addition, the presence of involucrin and lipids was assessed to determine CE maturity by examination of the red/green pixel ratio, percentage of involucrin expressing CEs and alternatively the ratio of fluorescence density.

RESULTS

The CE rigidity was lower in the deeper SC layers of the cheek, whereas post-auricular CEs were mechanically more resistant. Post-auricular CEs from the superficial SC had a larger surface area with a stronger fluorescence signal than those from the cheek. Interestingly, those CEs from the deeper SC layers had similar surface areas in both anatomical sites but were significantly different in hydrophobicity. These three parameters can be summarized as a relative CE maturity index that expresses CE maturity more precisely with a higher sensitivity than the conventional involucrin and Nile red staining approach. CEs of the cheek surface are more mature than CEs in the deeper SC layer, whereas CEs obtained from the post-auricular surface are more mature than those from the cheek surface.

CONCLUSION

The combined method developed allows characterization of CE maturity based on hydrophobicity per unit surface area and rigidity rather than a simple ratio of lipid to involucrin. A more robust and sensitive measurement has therefore been developed addressing the limitations of earlier protocols.

Quantitation of 24-Hour Moisturization by Electrical Measurements of Skin Hydration

PURPOSE

The purpose of this study was to quantify the effects of several moisturizers on hydration of the stratum corneum by measuring their effect on electrical conductance over a 24-hour period.

DESIGN

Double-blind, randomized controlled trial.

SUBJECTS AND SETTING

Twenty-five healthy female volunteers aged 18 to 65 years with dry skin on the lower legs and no other known dermatologic pathology participated in the study. Additional exclusion criteria were pregnant or taking anti-inflammatory steroids. The study was carried out in a clinical research facility in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada.

METHODS

Subjects underwent a 3-day conditioning period using a natural soap bar on the lower legs and no application of moisturizer to the skin. Participants then came to the test site and equilibrated for at least 30 minutes under controlled conditions of temperature and humidity. After baseline hydration measurements on test sites on the lower legs of each subject, a single application of each of 5 test products at a dose of 2 mg/cm was made. Skin hydration was assessed by electrical conductance measurements with a specialized probe. The probe was briefly placed on the skin surface with light pressure, and the measurement recorded in units of microsiemens (μS). Conductance was measured at 2, 4, 6, 8, and 24 hours after product applications.

RESULTS

Although all but 1 of the test products increased conductance at 2 hours, only 2 moisturizers containing high levels of glycerin (products C and E) maintained increased conductance relative to baseline at 24 hours, +37.8 (P < .001) and +103.5 (P < .001), respectively.

CONCLUSIONS

Moisturizers containing high levels of glycerin can provide a measurable moisturization benefit as determined by skin conductance for at least 24 hours after a single application.

The effect of photodamage on the female Caucasian facial stratum corneum corneome using mass spectrometry-based proteomics

BACKGROUND

The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood.

OBJECTIVE

To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular (PA) site, a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a better understanding of keratinocyte signalling pathways and identification of new molecular targets for the treatment of photoaged skin.

METHODS

Female Caucasian subjects had nine consecutive tape strippings taken from their cheeks and PA site. Proteins were extracted and the trypsin-digested peptides were analysed by nanochromatography coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer. Data-dependent acquisition allowed protein identification that was processed by Paragon algorithm of Protein Pilot software.

RESULTS

Changes in the levels of epidermal differentiation proteins were apparent indicating poor epidermal differentiation and SC maturation (keratins, cornified envelope (CE) proteins) on photoexposed cheeks. Differences in protease-anti-protease balance were observed for corneodesmolysis (favouring desquamation) and filaggrinolysis (favouring reduced filaggrin processing). 12R-LOX, a CE maturation enzyme, was reduced in photodamaged skin but not transglutaminases. Changes in signal keratinocyte transduction pathway markers were demonstrated especially by reduced levels of downstream signalling markers such as calreticulin (unfolded protein response; UPR) and increased level of stratifin (target of rapamycin; mTOR). Evidence for impaired proteostasis was apparent by reduced levels of a key proteasomal subunit (subunit beta type-6). Finally, key antioxidant proteins were upregulated except catalase.

CONCLUSION

Clear examples of poor keratinocyte differentiation and associated metabolic and signalling pathways together with reduced SC maturation were identified in photodamaged facial SC. Corneocyte immaturity was evident with changes in CE proteins. Particularly, the reduction in 12R-LOX is a novel finding in photodamaged skin and supports the lack of SC maturation. Moreover, filaggrinolysis was reduced, whereas corneodesmolysis was enhanced. From our results, we propose that there is a poor cross-talk between the keratinocyte endoplasmic reticulum UPR, proteasome network and autophagy machinery that possibly leads to impaired keratinocyte proteostasis. Superimposed on these aberrations is an apparently enhanced mTOR pathway that also contributes to reduced SC formation and maturation. Our results clearly indicate a corneocyte scaffold disorder in photodamaged cheek SC.

Moisturizers: The Slippery Road

Moisturizers are an important part of a dermatologist's armamentarium although little is written and well, a less is truly known about them. There is a cornucopia of projected skin products in the market whose real scientific role is not proven. These products although at times are regarded as mere cosmetics but have a well-known role in many skin disorders. Adequate knowledge about their mechanism of action, dosage, usage, and adverse effects is must for a dermatologist in this era. This article aims to bring forth the ever hidden facts of the much-hyped moisturizers. It is probably the first of its kind covering all aspects of moisturizers ranging from basic science to clinical usage, a subject that receives a short shrift in the current dermatological text.

A fundamental investigation into aspects of the physiology and biochemistry of the stratum corneum in subjects with sensitive skin

BACKGROUND

Sensitive skin is a poorly understood skin condition. Defects in stratum corneum (SC) barrier function and/or extrasensory neuronal networks in the epidermis are believed to be involved in the problem.

OBJECTIVES

This study aimed to unravel the relationships between bleomycin hydrolase (BH) and calpain-1 (C-1), pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) levels, corneocyte maturation, transglutaminase (TG) and plasmin activities on the cheeks of subjects with sensitive skin.

METHODS

Forty-eight female Caucasian subjects, Fitzpatrick skin phototypes II-III, with self-perceived sensitive facial skin, were assessed and underwent a capsaicin reactivity test. Expert grading of skin condition was conducted as well as the measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin capacitance, SC cohesion and SC integrity. BH, C-1 and plasmin activities were measured as well as PCA levels, plasmin and TG activity. Differential Nile red and involucrin immunostaining was performed to assess corneocyte maturation and size.

RESULTS

About 52% of the subjects reacted to capsaicin. There were no significant differences between the capsaicin-sensitive and non-capsaicin-sensitive subjects with reference to skin grading, TEWL, skin capacitance and SC cohesion. PCA levels and BH activity were lowest in the capsaicin-sensitive panel (P < 0.05) and were correlated in non-capsaicin-sensitive subjects (r = 0.72). The activity of TG was significantly lower (48%) in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects (P < 0.001) and their corneocytes were less mature and smaller (P ≤ 0.05). SC was estimated to be thinner (6.87 ± 0.28 vs. 8.68 ± 0.26 μm; P = 0.001) in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects with a corresponding shorter SC path length (83.2 ± 4.4 μm and 113.1 ± 4.5 μm; P = 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

Despite the physiological similarities between the two groups of sensitive skin subjects, differences in their biochemistry were clearly evident. Lower levels of PCA, BH and TG activities together with a greater number of smaller and immature corneocytes indicate inferior SC maturation in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects. The reduced maturation of corneocytes and thinner SC likely contributes to a greater penetration of capsaicin and the associated increased skin sensitivity.

Variation in the activities of late stage filaggrin processing enzymes, calpain-1 and bleomycin hydrolase, together with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid levels, corneocyte phenotypes and plasmin activities in non-sun-exposed and sun-exposed facial stratum corneum of different ethnicities

BACKGROUND

Knowledge of the ethnic differences and effects of photodamage on the relative amounts of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) together with filaggrin processing enzymes in facial stratum corneum is limited. Our aim was to characterize the activities of calpain-1 (C-1), bleomycin hydrolase (BH) and the levels of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) as a marker for total NMF levels and to relate them to plasmin activities and corneocyte maturation.

METHODS

Enzyme activities, PCA levels and corneocyte maturation were determined from facial tape strippings of photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular areas (PA) of healthy Caucasian (C), Black African (BA) and albino African (AA) female subjects living in South Africa.

RESULTS

PCA concentration levels were of the order AA > BA > C subjects, and the highest activities of BH were present in the AA subjects. BH activities were greater on the photoexposed sites for the BA and C subjects, but they were only numerically elevated in the AA subjects. Photoprotected sites had an increase in C-1 activity in pigmented groups (C and BA), whereas in the AA subjects, the opposite was measured. Plasmin activities were greater on the cheek compared with the PA site for the AA and C subjects, but the activity was low in the BA subjects. In both test sites, the AA, but not the BA and C subjects, had smaller, parakeratotic and less mature corneocytes.

CONCLUSION

Variation in PCA levels has been found for different ethnic groups in this study (AA > BA > C subjects). The values in the AA subjects are surprising as one might expect that the lack of pigmentation, and thereby increased photodamage, might lead to lower levels. Increased BH, but not C-1 activity, was observed in the AA subjects indicating that BH is associated with PCA production to a greater extent. Surprisingly, corneocyte maturation is still impaired with elevated PCA levels in AA subjects. The higher levels of plasmin and BH activities on the cheeks, especially for AA and C subjects, suggest that they can be used as markers for epidermal photodamage.

Understanding age-induced alterations to the biomechanical barrier function of human stratum corneum

BACKGROUND

The appearance and function of human skin are dramatically altered with aging, resulting in higher rates of severe xerosis and other skin complaints. The outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), is responsible for the biomechanical barrier function of skin and is also adversely transformed with age. With age the keratin filaments within the corneocytes are prone to crosslinking, the amount of intercellular lipids decreases resulting in fewer lipid bilayers, and the rate of corneocyte turnover decreases.

OBJECTIVES

The effect of these structural changes on the mechanical properties of the SC has not been determined. Here we determine how several aspects of the SC's mechanical properties are dramatically degraded with age.

METHODS

We performed a range of biomechanical experiments, including micro-tension, bulge, double cantilever beam, and substrate curvature testing on abdominal stratum corneum from cadaveric female donors ranging in age from 29 to 93 years old.

RESULTS

We found that the SC stiffens with age, indicating that the keratin fibers stiffen, similarly to collagen fibers in the dermis. The cellular cohesion also increases with age, a result of the altered intercellular lipid structure. The kinetics of water movement through the SC is also decreased.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results indicate that the combination of structural and mechanical property changes that occur with age are quite significant and may contribute to the prevalence of skin disorders among the elderly.

Filaggrin breakdown products determine corneocyte conformation in patients with atopic dermatitis

Background

Loss-of-function (LOF) mutations in the filaggrin gene (FLG) are a well-replicated risk factor for atopic dermatitis (AD) and are known to cause an epidermal barrier defect. The nature of this barrier defect is not fully understood. Patients with AD with FLG LOF mutations are known to have more persistent disease, more severe disease, and greater risk of food allergies and eczema herpeticum. Abnormalities in corneocyte morphology have been observed in patients with AD, including prominent villus-like projections (VP); however, these ultrastructural features have not been systematically studied in patients with AD in relation to FLG genotype and acute and convalescent status.

Objective

We sought to quantitatively explore the relationship between FLG genotype, filaggrin breakdown products (natural moisturizing factor [NMF]), and corneocyte morphology in patients with AD.

Methods

We studied 15 children at first presentation of AD and after 6 weeks of standard therapy. We applied atomic force microscopy to study corneocyte conformation in patients with AD stratified by FLG status and NMF level. By using a new quantitative methodology, the number of VPs per investigated corneocyte area was assessed and expressed as the Dermal Texture Index score. Corneocytes were also labeled with an anti-corneodesmosin antibody and visualized with scanning electron microscopy.

Results

We found a strong correlation between NMF levels and Dermal Texture Index scores in both acute and convalescent states (respective r = −0.80 and −0.75, P < .001 and P = .002). Most, but not all, VPs showed the presence of corneodesmosin abundantly all over the cell surface in homozygous/compound heterozygous FLG patients and, to a lesser extent, in heterozygous and wild-type patients.

Conclusions

NMF levels are highly correlated with corneocyte morphology in patients with AD. These corneocyte conformational changes shed further insight into the filaggrin-deficient phenotype and help explain the barrier defect in patients with AD with FLG LOF mutations.

Molecular basis for stratum corneum maturation and moisturization

This themed edition of BJD is dedicated to the work of Professor Ronald Marks for his untiring work on the understanding of stratum corneum (SC) structure and function. He and his coworkers, in my opinion, had the right focus for cosmetic dermatology issues. Namely, consumers experience the wonderful properties of the SC through sight, touch and the somatosensory system. They do not experience, for example, transepidermal water loss and skin conductance or capacitance! Marks understood this and set about developing the methodologies to examine the changes in SC architecture and function when desquamation goes haywire. More importantly, he understood that moisturizers do far more than simply hydrate the SC, as exemplified in the paper by Tree and Marks, 'An explanation for the placebo effect of bland ointment bases.' Moisturizing ingredients influence the properties of the SC in many ways with the sole purpose of overcoming the signs and symptoms of dry skin. Marks demonstrated the decrease in SC cohesion following use of hydrating agents, which led to the mechanistic work on the effects of a simple molecule like glycerol on the desquamatory process. In further exploiting forced desquamation and use of abrasion, he showed that improvements in exfoliation contribute to the mitigation of the signs of photodamaged skin, which can explain part of the antiageing effect of simple moisturizers. It is here that I should point out that at least this particular author in 1988 was 'standing on the shoulders of' a great corneologist whose work influenced his research directions. So this paper will provide an update on the latest developments for the molecular basis of SC maturation and moisturization, while highlighting the contributions of Professor Marks in the different areas.

From observational to analytical morphology of the stratum corneum: progress avoiding hazardous animal and human testings

Background

In cosmetic science, noninvasive sampling of the upper part of the stratum corneum is conveniently performed using strippings with adhesive-coated discs (SACD) and cyanoacrylate skin surface strippings (CSSSs).

Methods

Under controlled conditions, it is possible to scrutinize SACD and CSSS with objectivity using appropriate methods of analytical morphology. These procedures apply to a series of clinical conditions including xerosis grading, comedometry, corneodynamics, corneomelametry, corneosurfametry, corneoxenometry, and dandruff assessment.

Results

With any of the analytical evaluations, SACD and CSSS provide specific salient information that is useful in the field of cosmetology. In particular, both methods appear valuable and complementary in assessing the human skin compatibility of personal skincare products.

Conclusion

A set of quantitative analytical methods applicable to the minimally invasive and low-cost SACD and CSSS procedures allow for a sound assessment of cosmetic effects on the stratum corneum. Under regular conditions, both methods are painless and do not induce adverse events. Globally, CSSS appears more precise and informative than the regular SACD stripping.

The relationship between water loss, mechanical stress, and molecular structure of human stratum corneum ex vivo

Proper hydration of the stratum corneum (SC) is important for maintaining skin's vital functions. Water loss causes development of drying stresses, which can be perceived as 'tightness', and plays an important role in dry skin damage processes. However, molecular structure modifications arising from water loss and the subsequent development of stress has not been established. We investigated the drying stress mechanism by studying, ex vivo, the behaviors of the SC components during water desorption from initially fully hydrated samples using Raman spectroscopy. Simultaneously, we measure the SC mechanical stress with a substrate curvature instrument. Very good correlations of water loss to the mechanical stress of the stratum corneum were obtained, and the latter was found to depend mainly on the unbound water fraction. In addition to that, the water loss is accompanied with an increase of lipids matrix compactness characterized by lower chain freedom, while protein structure showed an increase in amount of α-helices, a decline in α-sheets, and an increase in folding in the tertiary structure of keratin. The drying process of SC involves a complex interplay of water binding, molecular modifications, and mechanical stress. This article provides a better understanding of the molecular mechanism associated to SC mechanics.

Retention of corneodesmosomes and increased expression of protease inhibitors in dandruff

BACKGROUND

Dandruff is a common, relapsing and uncomfortable scalp condition affecting a large proportion of the global population. The appearance of flakes on the scalp and in the hair line, and associated itch are thought to be consequences of a damaged skin barrier, altered corneocyte cohesion and abnormal desquamation in dandruff. The balance between skin proteases and protease inhibitors is essential for driving the key events, including corneodesmosome degradation, in the desquamation process and to maintain stratum corneum (SC) barrier integrity.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the distribution of corneodesmosomes, the key component of the SC cohesivity and barrier function, and the protease inhibitors lympho-epithelial Kazal-type-related inhibitor (LEKTI-1) and squamous cell carcinoma antigen (SCCA1) in the scalp of dandruff-affected participants.

METHODS

The methods utilized were immunohistochemistry, scanning immunoelectron microscopy, phase-contrast microscopy, Western blotting and serine protease activity assay on tape-stripped SC or scalp skin biopsies.

RESULTS

In SC samples from healthy subjects, corneodesmosomes were peripherally located in the corneocytes. In samples of dandruff lesions, corneodesmosomes were located both peripherally and on the entire surface area of the corneocytes. LEKTI-1 and SCCA1 protein levels and parakeratosis were found to be highly elevated in the lesional samples.

CONCLUSIONS

The persistence of nonperipheral corneodesmosomes is a characteristic feature of the perturbed desquamation seen in dandruff. The increased expression levels of LEKTI-1 and SCCA1 are consistent with the view that the dandruff condition is characterized by an imbalance in protease-protease inhibitor interaction in the SC.

Cyanoacrylate skin surface stripping and the 3S-Biokit advent in tropical dermatology: a look from Liège

In the dermatopathology field, some simple available laboratory tests require minimum equipment for establishing a diagnosis. Among them, the cyanoacrylate skin surface stripping (CSSS), formerly named skin surface biopsy or follicular biopsy, represents a convenient low cost procedure. It is a minimally invasive method collecting a continuous sheet of stratum corneum and horny follicular casts. In the vast majority of cases, it is painless and is unassociated with adverse events. CSSS can be performed in subjects of any age. The method has a number of applications in diagnostic dermatopathology and cosmetology, as well as in experimental dermatology settings. A series of derived analytic procedures include xerosis grading, comedometry, corneofungimetry, corneodynamics of stratum corneum renewal, corneomelametry, corneosurfametry, and corneoxenometry.

Filaggrin - revisited

Profilaggrin (proFLG) and its processing products are critical to the health and appearance of skin. The recent identification of loss-of-function filaggrin (FLG) mutations as a predisposing factor in ichthyosis vulgaris and atopic dermatitis has lead to a resurgent interest in this enigmatic protein. Here, we review the literature on the structure and many functions of proFLG, from its role as a filament-aggregating protein and a source of natural moisturizing factor (NMF), to the more recent discoveries of its role in epidermal barrier formation and its more speculative functions as an antimicrobial and sunscreen. Finally, we discuss the relationship of proFLG with dry skin, the influence of moisturizers on NMF generation and speculate on next generation of FLG research.

Tribology of bio-inspired nanowrinkled films on ultrasoft substrates

Biomimetic design of new materials uses nature as antetype, learning from billions of years of evolution. This work emphasizes the mechanical and tribological properties of skin, combining both hardness and wear resistance of its surface (the stratum corneum) with high elasticity of the bulk (epidermis, dermis, hypodermis). The key for combination of such opposite properties is wrinkling, being consequence of intrinsic stresses in the bulk (soft tissue): Tribological contact to counterparts below the stress threshold for tissue trauma occurs on the thick hard stratum corneum layer pads, while tensile loads smooth out wrinkles in between these pads. Similar mechanism offers high tribological resistance to hard films on soft, flexible polymers, which is shown for diamond-like carbon (DLC) and titanium nitride thin films on ultrasoft polyurethane and harder polycarbonate substrates. The choice of these two compared substrate materials will show that ultra-soft substrate materials are decisive for the distinct tribological material. Hierarchical wrinkled structures of films on these substrates are due to high intrinsic compressive stress, which evolves during high energetic film growth. Incremental relaxation of these stresses occurs by compound deformation of film and elastic substrate surface, appearing in hierarchical nano-wrinkles. Nano-wrinkled topographies enable high elastic deformability of thin hard films, while overstressing results in zigzag film fracture along larger hierarchical wrinkle structures. Tribologically, these fracture mechanisms are highly important for ploughing and sliding of sharp and flat counterparts on hard-coated ultra-soft substrates like polyurethane. Concentration of polyurethane deformation under the applied normal loads occurs below these zigzag cracks. Unloading closes these cracks again. Even cyclic testing do not lead to film delamination and retain low friction behavior, if the adhesion to the substrate is high and the initial friction coefficient of the film against the sliding counterpart low, e.g. found for DLC.

Solar UV radiation reduces the barrier function of human skin

The ubiquitous presence of solar UV radiation in human life is essential for vitamin D production but also leads to skin photoaging, damage, and malignancies. Photoaging and skin cancer have been extensively studied, but the effects of UV on the critical mechanical barrier function of the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), are not understood. The SC is the first line of defense against environmental exposures like solar UV radiation, and its effects on UV targets within the SC and subsequent alterations in the mechanical properties and related barrier function are unclear. Alteration of the SC's mechanical properties can lead to severe macroscopic skin damage such as chapping and cracking and associated inflammation, infection, scarring, and abnormal desquamation. Here, we show that UV exposure has dramatic effects on cell cohesion and mechanical integrity that are related to its effects on the SC's intercellular components, including intercellular lipids and corneodesmosomes. We found that, although the keratin-controlled stiffness remained surprisingly constant with UV exposure, the intercellular strength, strain, and cohesion decreased markedly. We further show that solar UV radiation poses a double threat to skin by both increasing the biomechanical driving force for damage while simultaneously decreasing the skin's natural ability to resist, compromising the critical barrier function of the skin.

Effect of skin-to-skin contact on preterm infant skin barrier function and hospital-acquired infection

Background

The preterm infants' skin is structurally and functionally immature at birth because of immature stratum corneum barrier function, leading to problems with fluid loses, thermoregulation, and infection. Two parameters of barrier function can be non-invasively assessed: Stratum Corneum Hydration (SCH) and Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL). Skin-to-Skin Care (SSC) is the proposed independent variable that might affect barrier function by decreasing TEWL and increasing SCH, thereby improving stratum corneum barrier function and consequently decreasing the rate of infection. No study of SSC's effects on TEWL and SCH of preterm infants could be found. The purpose of the study was to determine the effect of 5 daily Skin-to-Skin Contact sessions on infant skin hydration (SCH), transepidermal evaporated water loss (TEWL), and on SCH when TEWL was controlled, and on the presence of hospital acquired infection.

Methods

A one-group pretest-test-posttest design with 10 preterm infants (28 - 30 wks GA < 32 wks postmenstrual age, and no infection at entry). Test = 90 minutes of SSC; pre-test and post-test = 30 minutes each of prone positioning in an incubator. SCH and TEWL were taken on Days 1 and 5 at the beginning, middle and end of each period using Multi-Probe Adaptor. A 3 X 3 X 2 Repeated Measures Mixed Models Design, including a covariate, was used to analyze level of Skin Hydration. Specifically, the model tested comparisons in SCH made across repetitions, time, and days, as well as all possible interactions while controlling for TEWL. Descriptive statistics described the number of positive blood cultures during hospitalization and the presence of infections four weeks post-discharge.

Results

Significant differences in skin hydration were found across TIME (Pre-SSC, SSC, Post-SSC) (F = 21.86; p < 0.001). One infant had a positive blood culture during hospitalization; no infants had signs of infection by 4 weeks post-discharge.

Conclusions

The study has begun fulfilling the recommendation that SSC be tested as a strategy to improve skin hydration, but reveals that evaporative loss may be higher during SSC than during incubator care, and that the higher transepidermal evaporated water loss values may not necessarily be detrimental because few infections occurred even in its presence. A definitive randomized controlled trial is recommended.

Keywords

Skin-to-skin contact; Skin hydration; Transepidermal water loss; Infection; Preterm

Detection of corneodesmosin on the surface of stratum corneum using atomic force microscopy

Corneodesmosin, a protein known to be present in the stratum corneum (SC), plays an important role in its physical integrity. Here, a specific antibody to corneodesmosin was tethered via a flexible linker to an atomic force microscopy tip, and the interaction forces between this tip and the surface of the SC were successfully measured. Using the recently developed technique of simultaneous topography and recognition imaging, we were able to map the distribution of corneodesmosin on the surface of the SC at the nanoscale.

Corneobiology and corneotherapy--a final chapter

The text obtained for this review from Professor Albert Kligman was drawn posthumously from a variety of notes that he had been planning to use to write a review on corneobiology and corneotherapy. It was a review that he had dearly hoped to complete--his final 'magnum opus' with reflections on the subject.

Structural and functional differences in barrier properties of African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin

BACKGROUND

Differences in structural and functional skin characteristics have been linked with ethnical background. But racial differences in skin have not been thoroughly investigated by objective methods and the data are often contradictory.

OBJECTIVES

This study was undertaken to compare skin barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum on African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin by objective measurements.

METHODS

Baseline values of trans epidermal water loss were collected on the face. Consecutive stratum corneum D-squame tape strippings were collected on the panelist's ventral forearm and face to evaluate skin barrier strength and cohesion. Stratum corneum ceramides, maturation, measured as the transglutaminase-mediated cross-linking of stratum corneum proteins, and stratum corneum trypsin like enzyme activity were measured on the D-squame tape strippings.

RESULTS

East Asian and to some extent Caucasian skin was characterized by low maturation and relatively weak skin barrier. African American skin was characterized by low ceramide levels and high protein cohesion in the uppermost layers of the stratum corneum. These data can be interpreted in terms of the high prevalence of xerosis in black skin and increased skin sensitivity in East Asian skin.

CONCLUSION

These results demonstrate that skin properties at the level of the stratum corneum vary considerably among these ethnic groups. This contributes to an improved understanding of physiological differences between these study populations.

Drying stress and damage processes in human stratum corneum

SYNOPSIS

The drying stresses that develop in stratum corneum (SC) are crucial for its mechanical and biophysical function, its cosmetic feel and appearance, and play a central role in processes of dry skin damage. However, quantitative methods to characterize these stresses are lacking and little understanding exists regarding the effects of drying environment, chemical exposures and moisturizing treatments. We describe the application of a substrate curvature technique adapted for biological tissue to accurately characterize SC drying stresses as a function of time following environmental pre-conditioning and chemical treatment in a range of drying environments. SC stresses were observed to increase to stress levels of up to approximately 3 MPa over periods of 8 h depending on pretreatment and drying environment. A unique relationship between the SC stress and water in the drying environment was established. The effect of glycerol on lowering SC stresses and damaging surfactants on elevating SC stresses were quantified. Extensions of the method to continuous monitoring of SC stresses in response to changes in environmental moisture content and temperature are reported. Finally, a biomechanics framework to account for the SC drying stress as a mechanical driving force for dry skin damage is presented.