Skin care in ethnic populations

Age-dependent changes in skin features and perceived facial appearance in women of five ethnic groups

OBJECTIVE

Research documents effects of skin features on assessments of age, health and attractiveness of female faces. Ethnic variation also has been reported for the impact of age-related changes in skin features on face assessments. Here, we investigate women's self-ratings across age cohorts and ethnic groups and discrepancies with (non-expert) assessor ratings of facial appearance together with age-dependent changes in skin features.

METHODS

Faces of women 20-65 years from five ethnic groups (each n = 36) were imaged. Participants provided self-ratings of age, health and attractiveness, and were judged on these attributes by members of the same ethnic group (each n = 120). Digital image analysis was used to quantify skin gloss, tone evenness, wrinkling and sagging. Age-dependent changes in ratings and skin features within and between ethnic groups were assessed by comparing information from 10-year cohorts. We also tested whether menopausal status could be predicted by self-ratings, assessor ratings and image-based skin features.

RESULTS

Women of all ethnic groups judged themselves younger and higher in attractiveness and health compared to third-party assessors, with the largest discrepancies for age in French women and for attractiveness and health in South African women. In Indian and South African women, specular gloss and skin tone evenness were lower compared to other participants, and sagging was higher in Indian, Japanese and South African women compared to Chinese and French women. Women's menopausal status could be predicted from assessor ratings and image-based skin features but not from self-ratings.

CONCLUSION

There are differences between women's self-ratings and assessor ratings of facial appearance. These discrepancies vary with female age and ethnicity. Age and ethnicity effects also are evident in age-dependent changes in skin features within and across ethnic groups, which together with assessor (but not self-) ratings of facial appearance predict menopausal status.

[Inflammatory dermatoses in skin of color]

Acne, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis vulgaris are common inflammatory dermatoses. Of note, the epidemiology and clinical presentation of these common dermatologic diseases varies considerably between people with different colors of skin. Yet, most dermatology textbooks present and describe the clinical pictures of White people. To provide excellent dermatological care for all patients, it is of central importance to know the epidemiology and recognize key clinical characteristics of these diseases in patients with skin of color (SOC). In acne, cultural habits of Blacks (use of steroid-based lighteners, comedogenic hair care products) may lead to manifestation of specific forms of acne. In addition, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and keloids pose particular therapeutic challenges in this patient group. Atopic dermatitis in Asians shows a clinical and histological picture that is similar to psoriasis in Whites. By contrast, atopic dermatitis manifests on the extensor side in Black people. Due to the difficulty of recognizing erythema in SOC, the severity of the respective inflammatory diseases in these individuals is often underestimated. The treatment of acne, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis does not differ between people of different skin colors. The exception is the necessary therapy for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation in all the inflammatory dermatoses mentioned, and for keloids in acne.

An update on cosmetic procedures in people of color. Part 1: Scientific background, assessment, preprocedure preparation

Increased life expectancy, focus on appearance, and readily available and accessible cosmetic procedures have served to drive an increase in the number of nonsurgical cosmetic procedures performed in the last 20 years. Demographic shifts in the United States, with increases in diverse populations that seek nonsurgical cosmetic procedures, have resulted in the need for a better understanding of cultural preferences as well as structural and biological differences in the skin of people of color (POC). Although many advances in the form of cosmeceuticals, cosmetics, and photoprotection have been made to address the aesthetic needs of and minimize complications in POC, nonsurgical cosmetic procedures are required to address common aesthetic concerns. Gaps remain in the education of dermatologists regarding the appropriate selection and execution of nonsurgical cosmetic procedures in POC. This educational initiative will facilitate a favorable outcome and optimal cosmetic results for POC.

Addressing Human Skin Ethnicity: Contribution of Tissue Engineering to the Development of Cosmetic Ingredients

Recent publications describe various skin disorders in relation to phototypes and aging. The highest phototypes (III to VI) are more sensitive to acne, with the appearance of dark spots due to the inflammation induced by Cutibacterium acnes (previously Propionibacterium acnes). Dryness with aging is due to a lower activity of specific enzymes involved in the maturation of lipids in the stratum corneum. To observe and understand these cutaneous issues, tissue engineering is a perfect tool. Since several years, pigmented epidermis with melanocytes derived from specific phototypes allow to develop in vitro models for biological investigations. In the present study, several models were developed to study various skin disorders associated with phototypes and aging. These models were also used to evaluate selected ingredients’ ability to decrease the negative effects of acne, inflammation, and cutaneous dryness. Hyperpigmentation was observed on our reconstructed pigmented epidermis after the application of C. acnes, and pollutant (PM10) application induced increased inflammatory cytokine release. Tissue engineering and molecular biology offer the capability to modify genetically cells to decrease the expression of targeted proteins. In our case, GCase was silenced to decrease the maturation of lipids and in turn modify the epidermal barrier function. These in vitro models assisted in the development of ethnic skin-focused cosmetic ingredients.

Racial and Ethnic Differences in Self-Assessed Facial Aging in Women: Results From a Multinational Study

BACKGROUND

Racial/ethnic variations in skin structure and function may contribute to differential manifestations of facial aging in various races/ethnicities.

OBJECTIVE

To examine self-assessed differences in facial aging in women by race/ethnicity and Fitzpatrick skin phototypes.

METHODS

Women aged 18 to 75 years in the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, and Australia compared their features against photonumeric rating scales depicting degrees of severity for 10 facial aging characteristics. Impact of race/ethnicity (black, Hispanic, Asian, and Caucasian) and skin phototypes on severity was assessed.

RESULTS

In total, 3,267 women completed the study. Black women reported the least severe facial aging; Caucasian women reported the most severe facial aging, with Asian and Hispanic women falling between these groups. Similarly, women with a skin phototype V/VI reported lesser aging severity than women with phototypes I through IV. More than 30% of black women did not report the presence of moderate/severe aging of facial areas until 60 to 79 years; most Hispanics and Asians did not report moderate/severe facial aging until 50 to 69 years and Caucasians, 40 to 59 years.

CONCLUSION

In this diverse sample, black women reported less severe aging of facial features compared with Hispanic, Asian, and Caucasian women. These results were supported by Fitzpatrick skin phototype analyses.

Treatment of Moderate-to-severe Acne Vulgaris in a Hispanic Population: A Post-hoc Analysis of the Efficacy and Tolerability of Clindamycin 1.2%/Benzoyl Peroxide 3.75% Gel

Background: Acne vulgaris (acne) is highly prevalent in the Hispanic population as it is in other racial/ethnic groups. While nuances in the presentation, quality-of-life impact, and approach to therapy of acne have been reported in various racial ethnic groups and skin types, data on the Hispanic population are limited, and yet they are the fastest growing population in the United States. Potential for irritation, dryness, and pigmentary alteration (due to acne and/or treatment) are key concerns in the management of acne in Hispanic populations. Evaluation of the efficacy and tolerability of topical therapies in this growing segment of the population is therefore important. Methods: A post-hoc analysis of efficacy and cutaneous tolerability in 136 Hispanic subjects receiving clindamycin phosphate 1.2%/benzoyl peroxide (BP) 3.75% gel or vehicle from a 12-week, multicenter, double-blind study of 498 subjects with moderate-to-severe acne. Data was compared to that seen in the non-Hispanic population in the Phase 3 study. Results: Mean reductions in inflammatory and noninflammatory lesions (63.6% and 54.3%, respectively) were significantly greater with clindamycin phosphate 1.2%/BP 3.75% gel versus vehicle (P=0.001 and 0.008, respectively) and numerically greater than the reductions seen in the non-Hispanic population. Treatment success, a 2-grade reduction in severity from baseline (36.5%), was also greater than vehicle at Week 12. Cutaneous tolerability was excellent with all mean scores less than or equal to 0.2 at Week 12 (where 1=mild). No subjects discontinued due to adverse events. Conclusion: Clindamycin phosphate 1.2%/BP 3.75% gel was well tolerated and efficacious in the Hispanic population. Compared with the general population, Hispanic acne subjects were not found to be more susceptible to cutaneous irritation from treatment with clindamycin phosphate 1.2%/BP 3.75% gel.

Meeting the Challenges of Acne Treatment in Asian Patients: A Review of the Role of Dermocosmetics as Adjunctive Therapy

Conventional acne treatment presents several challenges such as intolerable side effects and antibiotic resistance. Dermocosmetic products may be used to reduce these unwanted effects. Dermocosmetics include skin cleansers, topical sebum-controllers, skin antimicrobial/anti-inflammatory agents, moisturizers, sunscreens, and camouflage products. Appropriate use of these products may help augment the benefit of acne treatment, minimize side effects, and reduce the need for topical antibiotics. In Asia, there is currently limited scientific data on the application and recommendations for dermocosmetic use in acne vulgaris (AV). This article reviews the evidence on dermocosmetics for AV and provides practice recommendations as discussed during the 4^th Asia-Pacific Acne Leaders' Summit held in Bangkok, Thailand, on 7 and 8 February 2015. Through a premeeting survey, a series of plenary lectures, a stepwise program of discussion sessions, and Medline article review, the Expert Panel set forth relevant recommendations on the role of dermocosmetics as adjunct for treating AV in Asian patients.

Acne in patients with skin of color: practical management

Acne vulgaris is a prevalent and non-discriminatory condition affecting individuals of all races and ethnicities. As people with skin of color make up a rapidly expanding segment of the US population, dermatologic care must evolve accordingly to address their distinct concerns. Patients with skin of color with acne can be particularly challenging, given their potential for cosmetically disturbing complications, including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and keloid development. A variety of treatments have been shown to be effective in preventing or treating these complications. Topical retinoids are considered first-line therapy for acne in patients of color; topical alternatives include azelaic acid, dapsone, and antimicrobials. Hydroquinone may be used in combating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, specifically. For more severe acne, oral agents, including oral antibiotics or isotretinoin, may be used. Most recently, various lasers and phototherapies have been suggested for their safety and efficacy in patients with skin of color with acne. Ultimately, recognizing the clinical and histologic differences, as well as the variations in treatment regimens for darker skin types will allow for better care and patient satisfaction.