Body fat measurement in elite sport climbers: Comparison of skinfold thickness equations with dual energy X-ray absorptiometry

Dietary Intakes and the Risk of Low Energy Availability in Male and Female Advanced and Elite Rock Climbers

ABSTRACT

Monedero, J, Duff, C, and Egan, B. Dietary intakes and the risk of low energy availability in male and female advanced and elite rock climbers. J Strength Cond Res 37(3): e8-e15, 2023-There is a culture among rock climbers of striving to maintain low body mass and percentage body fat to enhance performance. Diet practices based on this belief might lead to increased risk of low energy availability (LEA) or eating disorders (EDs). Twenty-five advanced or elite rock climbers (male, n = 14; female, n = 11) had body composition measured, completed 4-day food intake and physical activity diaries while wearing an accelerometer and heart rate monitor, and completed the Eating Attitudes Test (EAT)-26 and the Low Energy Availability in Females Questionnaire (LEAF-Q; n = 11 female subjects only). EAT-26 scores of 3.5 (1.8, 7.0) [median (IQR)] and 9.3 ± 6.4 (mean ± SD ) for male and female subjects, respectively, indicated low risk of ED in this cohort, but 4 female subjects were at high risk of LEA according to LEAF-Q scores. Suboptimal (<45 kcal·kg·FFM -1 ·d -1 ) and LEA (<30 kcal·kg·FFM -1 ·d -1 ) were evident in 88 and 28%, respectively, of climbers. However, only the female climbers had energy intakes (1775 ± 351 kcal·d -1 ) significantly lower than their calculated energy requirements (2056 ± 254 kcal·d -1 ; p = 0.006). In all subjects, carbohydrate intakes were lower (male subjects: 3.8 ± 1.2 g·kg -1 ·d -1 , p = 0.002; female subjects: 3.4 ± 0.7 g·kg -1 ·d -1 , p < 0.001), and fat intakes were higher (male subjects: 1.6 ± 0.5 g·kg -1 ·d -1 , p < 0.001; female subjects: 1.4 ± 0.4 g·kg -1 ·day -1 , p < 0.001) than current sports nutrition recommendations, and inadequate intakes of calcium, magnesium, and vitamin D were observed. Female subjects specifically had lower than recommended intakes of protein and iron. These results show that advanced and elite rock climbers have a high prevalence of LEA and have a risk of having nutritional deficiencies as result of their diet.

Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial

Improving climbing performance strongly depends upon effective training methods. Hangboard training is one of the most popular approaches to increase finger and forearm strength. Training protocols are based on maximizing weight or minimizing edges. We aimed to evaluate which of these protocols was superior. We prospectively analyzed 30 intermediate to advanced climbing athletes [Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) VI–VIII] and randomized them into three groups: control group C (Control, normal climbing training), hangboard group HE (Hang endurance, grips to hold for a determined time decreased every week), and hangboard group HW (Hang weight, + 1.25 kg weight were added each week to hold for a determined time). As endpoints, we measured the grip strength before and after an 8-week training protocol in seven different pinches. Over the 8-week training period, HW hangboard training significantly improved the climbers’ grip strength compared to C [p = 0.032, effect size (ES) 0.36]. Maximizing weight improved the strength in I/II + III, I/II + III + IV and fist significantly. HW was superior compared to C in terms of grip strength improvement in three out of seven pinches and overall grip strength. The overall changes in the HE group did not differ significantly from the C group. An 8-week training protocol with increasing weights (HW) significantly improved overall grip strength more than a regular climbing training without the use of a hangboard.

Simple anthropometry-based calculations to monitor body composition in athletes: Scoping review and reference values

BACKGROUND

Kinanthropometry offers to exercise and health professionals a standardized procedure of acquiring surface anatomical measurements that might be used to track changes in body composition.

AIM

To describe simple anthropometric indices to monitor body composition changes in amateur and elite athletes, and to provide reference values during the competition phase.

METHODS

A search of articles indexed in PubMed/MEDLINE, ScienceDirect, Cochrane, and SciELO databases using the string body composition AND (anthropometric OR skinfolds OR circumferences OR girth OR estimation equation) AND "body fat". Inclusion criteria were: quantitative and/or qualitative research published between 2009 and 2020, written in English or Spanish, reporting simple anthropometric indices that included skinfolds, girths, or basic measures in amateur and elite athletes.

RESULTS

A total of 51 studies (Price's index = 66.4%) met all the inclusion criteria and were included in this scoping review. Contrary to the frequent practice, the use of a regression equation might not be accurate to evaluate body composition. To avoid this, anthropometrists should base their analysis on the absolute values of the sum of skinfolds (∑S) and related variables, such as skinfold-corrected girths and lean mass index. While not definitive, because further research is required, the practical recommendations and updated reference values in competition phase provided by this review would contribute to the accurate identification of body composition changes.

CONCLUSIONS

∑S and lean mass index have been shown to be valid for monitoring changes in fat mass and fat-free mass, respectively. More research is needed to derive the lean mass index-specific coefficient for each sports population.

[Evaluation of the accuracy of different body composition prediction formulas, compared to dual energy X-ray absorptiometry, in soccer players of Colombian professional teams]

Introduction

Introduction: professional soccer both in the local setting and in other countries is highly competitive, and those who practice must have specific morphological, anthropometric, and body composition characteristics, in addition to constant monitoring of nutritional and training interventions. Currently, the gold-standard criterion for the evaluation of body composition is Dual Energy X-ray Absorciometry (DXA), which is a costly laboratory method with limited use for many professionals. Knowing which field methods obtain similar results to this would allow a better interdisciplinary approach, which could have a positive impact on sports performance. The objective of this study was to evaluate the accuracy of different formulas for predicting fat percentage and fat mass, as compared to DXA, in Colombian soccer team players. Methods: a cross-sectional, analytical study using convenience sampling. A total of 79 professional male soccer players, belonging to 4 Colombian first and second division clubs, were included. Thirty anthropometric variables were measured, wherewith a descriptive analysis was performed using the SPSS v.21 program, and a procedure with analytical scope was carried out to establish concordance indices between different measurements using the Bland and Altman method. This statistical process was performed using the library (BlandAltmanLeh) of the statistical program "R". Results: average age was 23 ± 4.4 years, and the percentage of body fat was estimated using six equations: Jackson and Pollock (7.20 ± 2.58 %), Yuhasz as modified by Carter (7.52 ± 8.50 %), Reilly (10.04 ± 1.43 %), Faulkner (11.23 ± 11.90 %), Pariskova and Buskova (11.08 ± 16.06 %), and Durnin and Womersley (12.41 ± 20,10 %), in addition to the calculation of fat percentage for fat mass using the five-component method (13.17 ± 2.86 %). The percentage of body fat that showed the lowest intermethod difference was fractionation by five components (0.54 ± 3.56), followed by Durnin and Womersley (0.66 ± 3.52). Conclusion: the calculations of fat percentage using the fractionation of 5 components method and the Durnin and Womersley equation were closest to the results obtained by the gold-standard method (DXA) in soccer players of Colombian professional teams.

Differences in Fat Mass Estimation Formulas in Physically Active Adult Population and Relationship with Sums of Skinfolds

Changes in body composition and specifically fat mass, has traditionally been used as a way to monitor the changes produced by nutrition and training. The objective of the present study was to analyse the differences between the formulas used to estimate fat mass and to establish the existing relationship with the body mass index and sums of skinfolds measurement in kinanthropometry. A total of 2458 active adults participated in the study. Body mass index (BMI) and skinfolds were measured, and the Kerr, Durnin-Womersley, Faulkner and Carter equations were used to assess fat mass. Significant differences were found between all the formulas for the percentage of fat mass, ranging from 10.70 ± 2.48 to 28.43 ± 5.99% (p < 0.001) and fat mass from 7.56 ± 2.13 to 19.89 ± 4.24 kg (p < 0.001). The correlations among sums of skinfolds and the different equations were positive, high and significant in all the cases (r from 0.705 to 0.926 p < 0.001), unlike in the case of BMI, were the correlation was lower and both positive or negative (r from -0.271 to 0.719; p < 0.001). In conclusion, there were differences between all the formulas used to estimate fat mass; thus, for the evaluation of fat mass with kinanthropometry of an active adult, the use of the same formula is recommended on all occasions when the results are going to be compared or when an athlete is compared with a reference.

Dietary Intake, Body Composition and Iron Status in Experienced and Elite Climbers

Climbing has developed into a popular recreational and elite sport, evidenced by a growing number of licenced competition athletes, and the acceptance into the Olympic calendar for Tokyo 2020. A nutritional assessment, including the evaluation of anthropometric and biochemical data, has not been previously reported in climbing athletes. Therefore, the aim of this study was to assess the dietary intake, body composition, and iron status in experienced climbers, across a range of performance levels. Forty climbers (n = 20 male, n = 20 female; 8.8 ± 6.6 years' experience; BMI 21.6 ± 1.7) aged 18–46 (30.3 ± 6.7 years) participated in the study. Dietary intake was recorded in a 3-days diet diary. Body composition was assessed using a skinfold profile and iron status via blood markers. Mean energy intake was 2154.6 ± 450 kcal·day⁻¹, with 30% of male climbers and 5% of female climbers failing to meet predicted resting metabolic rate. Furthermore, 77.5% of participants failed to meet a predicted energy requirement to support a “moderate” training programme. There were no significant correlations between daily energy intake and exercise volume. Mean intake of carbohydrate, protein and fat was 3.7 ± 0.9 g·kg⁻¹·day⁻¹, 1.6 ± 0.5 g·kg⁻¹·day⁻¹, and 1.4 ± 0.4 g·kg⁻¹·day⁻¹, respectively, with no significant difference between genders. Approximately 17% of males (n =3) and 45% of females (n = 9) had a sub-optimal iron status. Thirty percent of females met the classification criteria for iron deficiency. Mean serum ferritin was significantly greater in males, compared to females (102.7 ± 54.9 vs. 51.4 ± 24.2 μg·L⁻¹; p ≤ 0.01) and significantly lower in vegan/vegetarians vs. omnivores, in female climbers only (33.2 ± 14.8 vs. 57.5 ± 24 μg·L⁻¹; p = 0.05). No significant differences were observed between climbing ability groups (intermediate-advanced/elite-higher elite) for body composition, dietary intake, or iron status, for males or females. These findings suggest that experienced climbers are at risk of energy restriction and iron deficiency, therefore, routine assessment of nutritional status is warranted. Future research should consider iron status in relation to energy availability and investigate additional factors which may predispose this population to iron deficiency, as well as the risk of relative energy deficiency in sport (RED-S).

Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers

Despite climbing's popularity and an increasing number of female participants, there are limited anthropometric and performance data for this population. This study compares the characteristics of 55 experienced female climbers, divided into three categories (lower [ADV-L] and higher advanced [ADV-H] and elite [ELT]) based on self-reported ability. Data on climbing experience, body dimensions, body composition, flexibility, lower and upper-body power and finger strength were assessed. ELT climbers differed significantly from the ADV groups in age (Mean Difference [MD] = 8.8-9.8 yrs; despite smaller differences in years climbing MD = 1.6-2.4 yrs), greater climbing and hours training per week (MD = 3.0-3.7 h & MD = 0.9-1.6 h, respectively), and greater upper-body power (MD = 12.9-16.6 cm) and finger strength (MD = 51.6-65.4 N). Linear regression analysis showed finger strength and upper body power to be associated with ability, particularly when adjusting for descriptive and anthropometric variables (finger strength R² = 53% and 45%; upper-body power R² = 60% and 39% for boulder and sport, respectively). The findings support the importance of finger strength and upper-body power; changes in female anthropometric data over the last decade provide insight into the changing nature of the sport.

A comparison of body composition assessment methods in climbers: Which is better?

Objective

To compare body composition estimations of field estimation methods: Durnin & Womersley anthropometry (DW-ANT), bioelectrical impedance analysis (BIA) and Deborah-Kerr anthropometry (DK-ANT) against dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry (DXA) in a male Chilean sport climbing sample.

Methods

30 adult male climbers of different performance levels participated in the study. A DXA scan (Lunar Prodigy^®) was used to determine fat mass, lean mass and total bone mineral content (BMC). Total muscle mass (MM, kg) was estimated through a validated prediction model. DW-ANT and BIA (“non-athletes” and “athletes” equations) were used to determinate fat mass percentage (FM %), while DK-ANT was utilized to estimate MM and BMC.

Results

A significant (p<0.01) inter-method difference was observed for all methods analyzed. When compared to DXA, DW-ANT and BIA underestimated FM% and DK-ANT overestimated MM and BMC (All p<0.01). The inter-method differences was lower for DW-ANT.

Discussion

We found that body composition estimation in climbers is highly method dependent. If DXA is not available, DW-ANT for FM% has a lower bias of estimation than BIA in young male Chilean climbers. For MM and BMC, further studies are needed to compare and estimate the DK-ANT bias level. For both methods, correction equations for specific climbing population should be considered.

Agreement Between Standard Body Composition Methods to Estimate Percentage of Body Fat in Young Male Athletes

PURPOSE

To examine the intermethods agreement of dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry (DXA) and foot-to-foot bioelectrical impedance analysis (BIA) to assess the percentage of body fat (%BF) in young male athletes using air-displacement plethysmography (ADP) as the reference method.

METHODS

Standard measurement protocols were carried out in 104 athletes (40 swimmers, 37 footballers, and 27 cyclists, aged 12-14 y).

RESULTS

Age-adjusted %BF ADP and %BF BIA were significantly higher in swimmers than footballers. ADP correlates better with DXA than with BIA (r = .84 vs r = .60, P < .001). %BF was lower when measured by DXA and BIA than ADP (P < .001), and the bias was higher when comparing ADP versus BIA than ADP versus DXA. The intraclass correlation coefficients between DXA and ADP showed a good to excellent agreement (r = .67-.79), though it was poor when BIA was compared with ADP (r = .26-.49). The ranges of agreement were wider when comparing BIA with ADP than DXA with ADP.

CONCLUSION

DXA and BIA seem to underestimate %BF in young male athletes compared with ADP. Furthermore, the bias significantly increases with %BF in the BIA measurements. At the individual level, BIA and DXA do not seem to predict %BF precisely compared with ADP in young athletic populations.

An investigation of the accuracy and reliability of body composition assessed with a handheld electrical impedance myography device

The purpose of this study was to compare the body fat per cent (BF%) assessed with a unique handheld electrical impedance myography (EIM) device, along with other popular methods, to dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry (DXA). Participants included 33 males (aged 24.3 ± 4.6 years) and 38 females (aged 25.3 ± 8.9 years) who completed 2 visits separated by 24-72 h. The assessments included DXA, bioelectrical impedance analysis (BIA), skinfold measures (SKF), and three separate EIM measurements. No significant differences in BF% (P > 0.05) were found between all EIM assessments when compared against DXA for both males and females for each visit. All methods showed no significant differences in BF% (P > 0.05) between days within themselves. Across both days, the standard error of the estimate (SEE) for the EIM measurements ranged from 2.66% to 3.15%, the SEE for BIA was 2.80 and 2.85, and for SKF was 2.90 and 2.82. The 95% limits of agreement ranged from ±5.34% to ±6.38% for EIM measurements and were highest for SKF (±7.42% and ±7.47%). The total error for both days was largest for SKF (5.20% and 5.35%) and lowest for the EIM measurements (2.48-3.24%). This investigation supports use of a handheld EIM device as an accurate and reliable method of estimating BF% compared to DXA in young, apparently healthy individuals with BF% in the range of 10-22% for males and 20-32% in females and suggests this EIM device be considered a viable alternative to other established field measurements in this population.

The role of physique, strength and endurance in the achievements of elite climbers

PURPOSE

The primary aim of this study is to determine the principal somatic and motor determinants for elite climbers.

METHODS

Twenty climbers were examined [age: 28.5±6.1 years].The runners were divided into two groups based on their climbing level, according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA). Elite climbers represented a 8b-8c Rotpunkt (RP) climbing level (n = 6), and advanced climbers represented an 7c+-8a RP level (n = 14). The following measurements were assessed: height, weight, lean body mass, upper limb length, arm span, and forearm, arm, thigh and calf circumference. The BMI, Rohrer ratio, and Ape Index were also measured. The following motor tests were assessed: a specific test for finger strength, an arm strength test, and a test of muscle endurance (hanging from 2.5 and 4 cm ledges). In addition, pull ups were used to measure muscle resistance to fatigue.

RESULTS

Elite climbers recorded significantly higher values for finger strength than advanced climbers (129.08 vs. 111.54 kg; t(18) = 2.35, p = 0.03) and arm endurance (33.17 vs. 25.75 pull ups; t(18) = 2.54, p = 0.02). In addition, the calf circumference was significantly lower in elite climbers than that in advanced climbers (34.75 vs. 36.93 cm; t(18) = 3.50, p = 0.003).

CONCLUSION

The results suggest that elite climbers have greater finger strength and arm endurance than advanced climbers.

The effects of high resistance-few repetitions and low resistance-high repetitions resistance training on climbing performance

The aim of the study was to compare the effects of different strength training intensities on climbing performance, climbing-specific tests and a general strength test. Thirty lower grade and intermediate-level climbers participated in a 10-week training programme. The participants were randomized into three groups: high resistance-few repetitions training groups (HR-FR), low resistance-high repetitions training groups (LR-HR) and a control group (CON) which continued climbing/training as usual. Post-testing results demonstrated statistical tendencies for climbing performance improvements in the HR-FR and LR-HR (p = 0.088-0.090, effect size = 0.55-0.73), but no differences were observed between the groups (p = 0.950). For the climbing-specific tests, no differences were observed between the groups (p = 0.507-1.000), but the HR-FR and LR-HR improved their time in both Dead-hang (p = 0.004-0.026) and Bent-arm hang (p < 0.001-0.002). The HR-FR and LR-HR improved their 12RM strength in pull-down (p ≤ 0.001), but not the CON group (p = 0.250). No differences were observed in the CON group in any of the tests (p = 0.190-0.596) with the exception of improvement in Bent-arm Hang (p = 0.018). The training groups reduced their climbing sessions during the intervention compared to the CON group (p = 0.057-0.074). In conclusion, HR-FR and LR-HR training programmes demonstrated an 11% and 12% non-significant improvement in climbing performance despite a 50% reduction in climbing sessions, but improved the results in strength and climbing-specific tests. None of the training intensities was superior compared to the others.

Accuracy of prediction equations to assess percentage of body fat in children and adolescents with Down syndrome compared to air displacement plethysmography

To determine the accuracy of the published percentage body fat (%BF) prediction equations (Durnin et al., Johnston et al., Brook and Slaughter et al.) from skinfold thickness compared to air displacement plethysmography (ADP) in children and adolescents with Down syndrome (DS). Twenty-eight children and adolescents with DS (10-20 years old; 12 girls, 16 boys) participated in the study. Anthropometric measurements height, weight, and skinfolds biceps, triceps, subscapular and suprailiac were performed following ISAK recommendations. Total body density (TBD) was estimated using three equations and was also measured with ADP; while %BF was calculated from all densities using the Siri equation and from skinfolds using the Slaughter et al. equation. Finally, the agreement between methods was assessed by plotting the results in Bland-Altman graphs. The presence of heteroscedasticity was also examined. Despite the equation of Slaughter et al. had a large 95% limits of agreement, it was the only one without a significant inter-methods difference and without heteroscedasticity. The equation of Slaughter seems to be, from the studied, the most accurate for estimating %BF in children and adolescents with DS.

Anthropometry and body composition of female handball players according to competitive level or the playing position

Anthropometry and body composition were investigated in 43 female handball players from the Italian championships, grouped according to their competitive level (elite vs. sub-elite) or their playing position [goalkeeper (n = 7), back (n = 14), wing (n = 18), or pivot (n = 4)]. The anthropometry consisted of several circumferences, lengths, widths, and skinfold measurement at six sites; the regional and total body compositions were assessed by means of dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry (DXA). One-way ANOVA was used for statistical analysis, with a Bonferroni post-hoc test where needed. The results showed that elite players have significantly lower percentages of fat and higher bone mineral content than sub-elite as well as a clear tendency to accrue more lean mass, especially in upper limbs. Overall, the physical characteristics and body composition of handball players in Italy compared unfavourably with those in other countries, suggesting a need for improved selection and training. When playing position was included in the analysis of the whole group of handball players (n = 43) significant differences were found between the stature, mass, body mass index (BMI), several skinfolds, circumferences and lengths, and total body mineral mass, lean mass and fat mass of players in different positions. Post-hoc analysis suggests that players on the wing and in goalkeeper positions differed most from one another. These findings confirm and expand on previous data about the presence of anthropometric differences within playing positions in handball.