Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels or irritation

Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action

The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal-epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-trans retinoic acid is considered the 'gold standard' for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.

Retinoids in the treatment of photoageing: A histological study of topical retinoid efficacy in black skin

BACKGROUND

Photoageing describes complex cutaneous changes that occur due to chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). The 'gold standard' for the treatment of photoaged white skin is all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA); however, cosmetic retinol (ROL) has also proven efficacious. Recent work has identified that black skin is susceptible to photoageing, characterized by disintegration of fibrillin-rich microfibrils (FRMs) at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). However, the impact of topical retinoids for repair of black skin has not been well investigated.

OBJECTIVES

To determine the potential of retinoids to repair photoaged black skin.

METHODS

An exploratory intervention study was performed using an in vivo, short-term patch test protocol. Healthy but photoaged black volunteers (>45 years) were recruited to the study, and participant extensor forearms were occluded with either 0.025% ATRA (n = 6; 4-day application due to irritancy) or ROL (12-day treatment protocol for a cosmetic) at concentrations of 0.3% (n = 6) or 1% (n = 6). Punch biopsies from occluded but untreated control sites and retinoid-treated sites were processed for histological analyses of epidermal characteristics, melanin distribution and dermal remodelling.

RESULTS

Treatment with ATRA and ROL induced significant acanthosis (all p < 0.001) accompanied by a significant increase in keratinocyte proliferation (Ki67; all p < 0.01), dispersal of epidermal melanin and restoration of the FRMs at the DEJ (all p < 0.01), compared to untreated control.

CONCLUSIONS

This study confirms that topical ATRA has utility for the repair of photoaged black skin and that ROL induces comparable effects on epidermal and dermal remodelling, albeit over a longer timeframe. The effects of topical retinoids on black photoaged skin are similar to those reported for white photoaged skin and suggest conserved biology in relation to repair of UVR-induced damage. Further investigation of topical retinoid efficacy in daily use is warranted for black skin.

Integrating Skincare into Medical Practice

The integration of skincare into medical practice can enhance patient care. Understanding the anatomy and physiology of the skin is the foundation for effective skincare interventions. Genetic and inflammatory conditions play a significant role in aesthetic skin physiology. There are key active ingredients that are pivotal in addressing various skin concerns. Sunscreens provide crucial protection against UV radiation, while pigment control agents such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, and arbutin target the melanin pathway. Exfoliating agents and skin turnover enhancers such as retinoids and hydroxy acids promote skin renewal and rejuvenation. In addition, ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, niacinamide, antioxidants, peptides, and botanicals contribute to improving skin quality. Adding skincare to medical practice requires careful product selection, patient education, and marketing strategies.

Top weapons in skin aging and actives to target the consequences of skin cell senescence

Skin aging has long been considered a purely cosmetic problem. However, as life expectancy increases, skin aging is taking on a functional dimension that goes beyond cosmetics and appearance. Preventive or therapeutic strategies are needed to target cellular senescence, a key process underlying the alterations in skin function and appearance that occur with aging, as well as to address the age-related skin changes associated with 'dermatoporosis' and chronic skin insufficiency/fragility syndrome. Thus, given the need for effective anti-aging products that improve both the appearance and function of the skin, it is essential to distinguish active ingredients that have been proven to be effective, among the large number of available over-the-counter cosmeceuticals. This brief review focuses on a core group of topical actives, describing their clinical effects on senescence and aging, and their molecular mechanisms of action. These actives include hyaluronic acid, which has hydrating and viscoelastic properties and has been shown to reduce skin atrophy; retinaldehyde, which activates retinoid receptors and increases cutaneous elasticity; vitamins C and E, which provide stable oxidative protection; and niacinamide, which reduces inflammation and mitigates the effects of senescence.

Epidermal retinol dehydrogenases cyclically regulate stem cell markers and clock genes and influence hair composition

The hair follicle (HF) is a self-renewing adult miniorgan that undergoes drastic metabolic and morphological changes during precisely timed cyclic organogenesis. The HF cycle is known to be regulated by steroid hormones, growth factors and circadian clock genes. Recent data also suggest a role for a vitamin A derivative, all-trans-retinoic acid (ATRA), the activating ligand of transcription factors, retinoic acid receptors, in the regulation of the HF cycle. Here we demonstrate that ATRA signaling cycles during HF regeneration and this pattern is disrupted by genetic deletion of epidermal retinol dehydrogenases 2 (RDHE2, SDR16C5) and RDHE2-similar (RDHE2S, SDR16C6) that catalyze the rate-limiting step in ATRA biosynthesis. Deletion of RDHEs results in accelerated anagen to catagen and telogen to anagen transitions, altered HF composition, reduced levels of HF stem cell markers, and dysregulated circadian clock gene expression, suggesting a broad role of RDHEs in coordinating multiple signaling pathways.

Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall 'health and wellbeing'; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) - a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical 'gold standard' - a hybrid category of 'cosmeceutical' products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.

Photoaging and Topical Rejuvenation

Photoaging is a complex process of skin changes associated with chronic ultraviolet exposure. Prevention with photoprotection and treatment with topical retinoids are the core components of a topical antiaging regimen. Other topicals such as hydroquinone, vitamin C, niacinamide, and alpha hydroxyl acid can be added based on specific concerns. However, caution must be used with some of these products as the stability and absorption are major considerations. A simple topical regimen will reduce irritability and enhance compliance.

How to Promote Skin Repair? In-Depth Look at Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Strategies

Skin repair encompasses epidermal barrier repair and wound healing which involves multiple cellular and molecular stages. Therefore, many skin repair strategies have been proposed. In order to characterize the usage frequency of skin repair ingredients in cosmetics, medicines, and medical devices, commercialized in Portuguese pharmacies and parapharmacies, a comprehensive analysis of the products' composition was performed. A total of 120 cosmetic products, collected from national pharmacies online platforms, 21 topical medicines, and 46 medical devices, collected from INFARMED database, were included in the study, revealing the top 10 most used skin repair ingredients in these categories. A critical review regarding the effectiveness of the top ingredients was performed and an in-depth analysis focused on the top three skin repair ingredients pursued. Results demonstrated that top three most used cosmetic ingredients were metal salts and oxides (78.3%), vitamin E and its derivatives (54.2%), and Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. extract and actives (35.8%). Regarding medicines, metal salts and oxides were also the most used (47.4%) followed by vitamin B5 and derivatives (23.8%), and vitamin A and derivatives (26.3%). Silicones and derivatives were the most common skin repair ingredients in medical devices (33%), followed by petrolatum and derivatives (22%) and alginate (15%). This work provides an overview of the most used skin repair ingredients, highlighting their different mechanisms of action, aiming to provide an up-to-date tool to support health professionals' decisions.

The Use of Retinoids for the Prevention and Treatment of Skin Cancers: An Updated Review

Retinoids are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives that are effective for the prevention and the treatment of non-melanoma skin cancers (NMSC). NMSCs constitute a heterogenous group of non-melanocyte-derived skin cancers that impose substantial burdens on patients and healthcare systems. They include entities such as basal cell carcinoma and cutaneous squamous cell carcinoma (collectively called keratinocyte carcinomas), cutaneous lymphomas and Kaposi’s sarcoma among others. The retinoid signaling pathway plays influential roles in skin physiology and pathology. These compounds regulate diverse biological processes within the skin, including proliferation, differentiation, angiogenesis and immune regulation. Collectively, retinoids can suppress skin carcinogenesis. Both topical and systemic retinoids have been investigated in clinical trials as NMSC prophylactics and treatments. Desirable efficacy and tolerability in clinical trials have prompted health regulatory bodies to approve the use of retinoids for NMSC management. Acceptable off-label uses of these compounds as drugs for skin cancers are also described. This review is a comprehensive outline on the biochemistry of retinoids, their activities in the skin, their effects on cancer cells and their adoption in clinical practice.

Stability and Applicability of Retinyl Palmitate Loaded Beeswax Microcapsules for Cosmetic Use : Material properties and stability of microencapsulated actives

In our previous study, retinyl palmitate was successfully encapsulated by melt dispersion using waxes as shell materials. Herein, the objective of the present research is to evaluate the shelf life and kinetic release of the developed microcapsules. The study was conducted by measuring actual loading capacity over a period of time using spectroscopic analysis. The transfer percentage of particles from nonwoven facial wipes to skin-like surfaces was also investigated by simulating the rubbing mechanism with a robotic transfer replicator. Although particles stored as powder form under room temperature showed only eight days of shelf-life, particles stored as a dispersion in a refrigerator maintained 60% of the theoretical loading capacity after one month. The kinetic release profile of the particles in ethanol with shaking at 100 rpm and 37±2°C showed an initial burst in the first half an hour, followed by a sustained release. It also showed that 98% of the retinyl palmitate content released within 4 h. Particles incorporated into wet nonwoven wipes gave approximately 22% transfer to skin-like fabric. Thus, the study shows potentials of delivering skincare properties by means of retinyl palmitate capsule loaded textile substrates.

Assessing changes in facial skin quality using noninvasive in vivo clinical skin imaging techniques after use of a topical retinoid product in subjects with moderate-to-severe photodamage

BACKGROUND

Studies utilizing reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) and dynamic optical coherence tomography (D-OCT) to assess cosmetic skin changes are limited.

METHODS

A 12-week, open-label study was conducted using RCM and D-OCT to evaluate the effects of a topical cosmetic retinol (RET05) on subjects with facial photodamage. Study endpoints included investigator grading, standardized (VISIA-CR) and 3D photography (Antera 3D), independent RCM (VivaScope1500) and D-OCT (VivoSight) image analysis, validated FACE-Q scales, and subject questionnaires.

RESULTS

Twenty-three subjects, 45- to 68-year old, with Fitzpatrick skin types II-IV completed the study. After 12 weeks of repeated application, RET05 demonstrated significant corresponding cosmetic improvements for overall photodamage, skin tone unevenness, tactile roughness, fine lines/wrinkles (forehead, periocular, and perioral), and coarse lines/wrinkles (forehead, periocular, and cheeks), and Allergan Skin Roughness Scale. FACE-Q assessments also demonstrated significant improvements from baseline at week 12. RCM analysis showed decreases in all epidermis, less compact stratum corneum (SC), more non-compact SC, decreases in coarse/huddled dermal fibers, and increases in fibrillar dermal fibers, as compared to baseline. D-OCT analysis showed significant decreases in epidermal thickness (ET), reduction of moderate/many collagen fragments and collagen bundles, and significant increases in the stroma attenuation coefficient and collagen density. Moreover, the dermal-epidermal junction was more pronounced, and vascular abundance at 300 and 500 μm depth increased. Independent evaluation of RCM and D-OCT images showed similar decreases in ET and improvements in dermal fibers.

CONCLUSION

This study was the first to utilize RCM and D-OCT to evaluate the cosmetic effects of a topical retinoid and further substantiate improvements in skin quality.

Biomarkers of Tretinoin Precursors and Tretinoin Efficacy in Patients With Moderate to Severe Facial Photodamage: A Randomized Clinical Trial

Importance

Topical formulations of tretinoin precursors (retinol and its ester derivatives) are widely available over the counter and may offer similar clinical benefits to those of tretinoin for treatment of photoaging. However, which of the many purported molecular effects of retinoids most strongly drives clinical improvements in tretinoin-treated skin remains unclear.

Objectives

To evaluate the clinical efficacy of topical tretinoin precursors (TTP) vs tretinoin (RA) in treating moderate to severe facial photodamage and to identify potential biomarkers that correlate with clinical efficacy.

Design, Setting, and Participants

This randomized, double-blind, single-center, parallel-arm study of 24 patients with moderate to severe facial photodamage was conducted at an academic referral center from November 2010 to December 2011, with data analysis performed from January 2012 to December 2021.

Interventions

Daily topical application of 0.02% RA or 1.1% TTP formulation containing retinol, retinyl acetate, and retinyl palmitate for 24 weeks.

Main Outcomes and Measures

Photoaging and tolerability were assessed by dermatologist evaluations and patient-reported outcomes. Target gene expression was assessed by real-time quantitative polymerase chain reaction of biopsied tissue from treated areas.

Results

A total of 20 White women were ultimately analyzed (9 randomized to TTP, 11 randomized to RA). At week 24, there was no significant difference in Griffiths photoaging scores among patients receiving TTP vs RA (median, 4 vs 5) (TTP - RA difference: -1; 95% CI, -2 to 1; P = .27). Treatment with TTP was associated with erythema 6 times less frequently than RA (11% vs 64%) (TTP - RA difference: -0.53; 95% CI, -0.88 to -0.17; P = .01). Target gene analysis showed significant CRABP2 messenger RNA (mRNA) induction (confirming retinoic acid receptor signaling) but no significant changes in procollagen I or MMP1/3/9 mRNA in TTP-treated samples. Instead, MMP2 mRNA, which encodes a type IV collagenase, was significantly reduced in TTP-treated samples (week 24 - baseline mRNA difference: -5; 96% CI, -33 to 1.6; P = .02), and changes in MMP2 were strongly correlated with changes in fine wrinkles (r = 0.54; 95% CI, 0.12 to 0.80; P = .01). Interestingly, patients with severe baseline wrinkles exhibited greater improvements (r = -0.74; 95% CI, -0.89 to -0.43; P < .001). This trend was mirrored in MMP2 mRNA, with initial expression strongly predicting subsequent changes (r = -0.78; 95% CI, -0.89 to -0.43; P < .001).

Conclusions and Relevance

In this randomized clinical trial, there was no significant difference in efficacy between this particular formulation of TTP and tretinoin 0.02%. However, the results of these mechanistic studies highlight MMP2 as a possible mediator of retinoid efficacy in photoaging.

Trial Registration

ClinicalTrials.gov Identifier: NCT01283464.

Antibiotics-Free Compounds for Chronic Wound Healing

The rapid rise in the health burden associated with chronic wounds is of great concern to policymakers, academia, and industry. This could be attributed to the devastating implications of this condition, and specifically, chronic wounds which have been linked to invasive microbial infections affecting patients' quality of life. Unfortunately, antibiotics are not always helpful due to their poor penetration of bacterial biofilms and the emergence of antimicrobial resistance. Hence, there is an urgent need to explore antibiotics-free compounds/formulations with proven or potential antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound healing efficacy. The mechanism of antibiotics-free compounds is thought to include the disruption of the bacteria cell structure, preventing cell division, membrane porins, motility, and the formation of a biofilm. Furthermore, some of these compounds foster tissue regeneration by modulating growth factor expression. In this review article, the focus is placed on a number of non-antibiotic compounds possessing some of the aforementioned pharmacological and physiological activities. Specific interest is given to Aloevera, curcumin, cinnamaldehyde, polyhexanide, retinoids, ascorbate, tocochromanols, and chitosan. These compounds (when alone or in formulation with other biologically active molecules) could be a dependable alternative in the management or prevention of chronic wounds.

Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial aging - Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach

Objective

Skin ageing is a multifactorial process involving formation of reactive oxygen species, consecutive inflammation with reduced epidermal and dermal cell viability and resulting damage to the extracellular matrix. Effective dermocosmetic treatment modalities should ideally address these hallmarks in a holistic approach. Here, we determined the corresponding activity profile of bakuchiol, a plant‐derived meroterpene, in an array of in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies and compared it to retinol, currently considered as gold standard in topical antiageing cosmetics.

Methods

The antioxidative capacity and power of bakuchiol and retinol were analysed by measuring 2,2′‐diphenyl‐1‐picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) reduction via its absorption decay and electron spin resonance spectroscopy, respectively. Effects on prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), macrophage migration inhibitory factor (MIF), fibroblast growth factor 7 (FGF7), collagen type I and VII (COL1A1, COL7A1), fibronectin (FN) levels as well as the metabolization of water‐soluble tetrazolium 1 (WST‐1) were determined in human dermal fibroblasts. Epidermal regeneration was assessed utilizing an in vitro wound healing model. FN protein levels were analysed ex vivo after treatment with a formulation containing bakuchiol, retinol or vehicle using suction blister fluid. Skin condition improvement was determined in vivo in a split‐face comparison study after application of bakuchiol or vehicle.

Results

In contrast to retinol, bakuchiol demonstrated high antioxidative efficacy. Levels of PGE2 and MIF were significantly decreased by both bakuchiol and retinol. Bakuchiol but not retinol significantly increased FGF7 protein levels. WST‐1 metabolization levels were significantly augmented by bakuchiol and retinol. Bakuchiol and retinol application led to a significant augmentation of COL1A1, COL7A1 and FN protein levels. Wounds supplemented with bakuchiol but not retinol displayed a significant increase in epidermis regeneration. Clinically, areas treated with a bakuchiol‐containing formulation showed a statistically significant increase in FN protein values after a 4‐week application compared to untreated areas and areas treated with vehicle.

Conclusion

These data provide evidence for the multidirectional efficacy of bakuchiol against cellular hallmarks of skin ageing. Its activity profile shares some common features with retinol but demonstrates several hitherto unknown biopositive effects in our studies, namely stimulation of the critical extracellular matrix component FN, and accelerated epidermal regeneration and wound healing.

Vitamin deficiencies/hypervitaminosis and the skin

Vitamins are an indispensable food source and important owing to the enzyme cofactor and catalytic roles they play in the body. Fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E, K, and B12, are stored in the body and can cause problems with their excessive accumulation. Other vitamins rarely accumulate in the body because they dissolve in water and are excreted through the kidneys. Alcoholism, strict diets, insufficient parental nutrition, and gastrointestinal absorption problems may be included in the causes of vitamin deficiencies. Although clinical findings of vitamin deficiencies display different characteristics depending on the vitamins, the signs that generally occur are cutaneous pigmentation, pigmentation on mucous membranes, palmoplantar keratoderma characterized by fissures, palmar streaking, yellow streaking on the nails, nail layering, and intranail hemorrhage.

The role of local retinoids in eliminating signs of skin aging

Skin aging is a complex process involving both internal (chronological aging) and external (biological aging) factors. Slowing down the proliferative and immune processes in the epidermis, reducing the activity of fibroblasts and vascularization of the dermis during chronological aging lead to thinning, dryness, hypersensitivity, vulnerability and superficial wrinkles. Exposure to ultraviolet rays, pollutants, climate, and thermal factors cause keratinocyte disorganization, enhanced melanogenesis, collagen dystrophy, solar elastosis, and disorder of microcirculation. The main signs of external skin aging are deep wrinkles, sagging, pigmentation, telangiectasia, skin neoplasms. Among the local anti-aging agents, retinoids occupy a leading place, as they eliminate the main signs of skin aging. Of the entire group of retinoids, retinoic acids are the most active. However, the possibility of skin irritation limits their use. Therapeutic and cosmetic products with retinol esters (retinol palmitate) have a minimal irritating effect and can be used both for the prevention of skin aging and the elimination of its signs. Oral use of isotretinoin as an anti-aging agent is undesirable due to the many side effects and contraindications.

Dermal EZH2 orchestrates dermal differentiation and epidermal proliferation during murine skin development

Skin development and patterning is dependent on factors that regulate the stepwise differentiation of dermal fibroblasts concomitant with dermal-epidermal reciprocal signaling, two processes that are poorly understood. Here we show that dermal EZH2, the methyltransferase enzyme of the epigenetic Polycomb Repressive Complex 2 (PRC2), is a new coordinator of both these processes. Dermal EZH2 activity is present during dermal fibroblast differentiation and is required for spatially restricting Wnt/β-catenin signaling to reinforce dermal fibroblast cell fate. Later in development, dermal EZH2 regulates the expression of reticular dermal markers and initiation of secondary hair follicles. Embryos lacking dermal Ezh2 have elevated epidermal proliferation and differentiation that can be rescued by small molecule inhibition of retinoic acid (RA) signaling. Together, our study reveals that dermal EZH2 is acting like a rheostat to control the levels of Wnt/β-catenin and RA signaling to impact fibroblast differentiation cell autonomously and epidermal keratinocyte development non-cell autonomously, respectively.

Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review

Human skin is continually changing. The condition of the skin largely depends on the individual’s overall state of health. A balanced diet plays an important role in the proper functioning of the human body, including the skin. The present study draws attention to bioactive substances, i.e., vitamins, minerals, fatty acids, polyphenols, and carotenoids, with a particular focus on their effects on the condition of the skin. The aim of the study was to review the literature on the effects of bioactive substances on skin parameters such as elasticity, firmness, wrinkles, senile dryness, hydration and color, and to define their role in the process of skin ageing.

The vitamin A ester retinyl propionate has a unique metabolic profile and higher retinoid-related bioactivity over retinol and retinyl palmitate in human skin models

Human skin is exposed daily to environmental stressors, which cause acute damage and inflammation. Over time, this leads to morphological and visual appearance changes associated with premature ageing. Topical vitamin A derivatives such as retinol (ROL), retinyl palmitate (RPalm) and retinyl propionate (RP) have been used to reverse these changes and improve the appearance of skin. This study investigated a stoichiometric comparison of these retinoids using in vitro and ex vivo skin models. Skin biopsies were treated topically to compare skin penetration and metabolism. Treated keratinocytes were evaluated for transcriptomics profiling and hyaluronic acid (HA) synthesis and treated 3D epidermal skin equivalents were stained for epidermal thickness, Ki67 and filaggrin. A retinoic acid receptor-alpha (RARα) reporter cell line was used to compare retinoid activation levels. Results from ex vivo skin found that RP and ROL have higher penetration levels compared with RPalm. RP is metabolized primarily into ROL in the viable epidermis and dermis whereas ROL is esterified into RPalm and metabolized into the inactive retinoid 14-hydroxy-4,14-retro-retinol (14-HRR). RP treatment yielded higher RARα activation and HA synthesis levels than ROL whereas RPalm had a null effect. In keratinocytes, RP and ROL stimulated similar gene expression patterns and pathway theme profiles. In conclusion, RP and ROL show a similar response directionality whereas RPalm response was inconsistent. Additionally, RP has a consistently higher magnitude of response compared with ROL or RPalm.

Retinol Has a Skin Dehydrating Effect That Can Be Improved by a Mixture of Water-Soluble Polysaccharides

It is common that retinoids used in skincare can cause skin dryness, irritation and redness which is a complaint for the use of these molecules in skincare formulations. Objective: to investigate the influence of a mixture of polysaccharides to improve retinol-based formulations in a 12-day inner volar forearm study. Methods: in total, 22 inner volar forearms were treated over a 12-day topical application of a Placebo formulation containing 0.5% retinol verses a formulation containing 0.5% retinol and 3.0% of a complex of polysaccharides. Application occurred 2X/day in the morning and evening. Skin testing included barrier disruption, erythema, and skin hydration. After a 3-day regression of treatment, skin hydration was measured again. Results: the 0.5% retinol Placebo formulation showed a significant impact on skin dehydration compared to untreated control or polysaccharide-treated areas. The formulation containing retinol and 3.0% of the polysaccharides, maintained skin hydration levels comparable to the untreated control. Neither formulation had a statistically significant impact on skin erythema or barrier disruption. After the 3-day regression, the polysaccharide mixture continued to demonstrate significant moisturization benefits superior to the untreated and active-treated sites. Conclusions: a mixture of polysaccharides was able to mitigate the short-term skin drying effects of retinol and continued to moisturize the skin after a 3-Day regression.

Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review

Over-the-counter antiaging formulations aim to prevent or minimize the signs of aging skin, and to maintain the benefits obtained from different cosmetic procedures. Even though a huge selection of such products is available on the market, evidence and good clinical practice of the data supporting their use are oftentimes lacking. In this systematic review, the authors reviewed scientific data available in the published literature on the most common ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics, with a particular focus on in vivo studies.

Characterization of CYP26B1-Selective Inhibitor, DX314, as a Potential Therapeutic for Keratinization Disorders

Inhibition of CYP450-mediated retinoic acid (RA) metabolism by RA metabolism blocking agents increases endogenous retinoids and is an alternative to retinoid therapy. Currently available RA metabolism blocking agents (i.e., liarozole and talarozole) tend to have fewer adverse effects than traditional retinoids but lack target specificity. Substrate-based inhibitor DX314 has enhanced selectivity for RA-metabolizing enzyme CYP26B1 and may offer an improved treatment option for keratinization disorders such as congenital ichthyosis and Darier disease. In this study, we used RT-qPCR, RNA sequencing, pathway, upstream regulator, and histological analyses to demonstrate that DX314 can potentiate the effects of all-trans-RA in healthy and diseased reconstructed human epidermis. We unexpectedly discovered that DX314, but not all-trans-RA or previous RA metabolism blocking agents, appears to protect epidermal barrier integrity. In addition, DX314-induced keratinization and epidermal proliferation effects are observed in a rhino mice model. Altogether, the results indicate that DX314 inhibits all-trans-RA metabolism with minimal off-target activity and shows therapeutic similarity to topical retinoids in vitro and in vivo. Findings of a barrier-protecting effect require further mechanistic study but may lead to a unique strategy in barrier-reinforcing therapies. DX314 is a promising candidate compound for further study and development in the context of keratinization disorders.

Cellular retinoic acid binding protein-II expression and its potential role in skin aging

Skin aging is an intricate biological process consisting of intrinsic and extrinsic alterations of epidermal and dermal structures. Retinoids play an important role in epidermal cell growth and differentiation and are beneficial to counteract skin aging. Cellular retinoic acid binding protein-II (CRABP-II) selectively binds all trans-retinoic acid, the most active retinoid metabolite, contributing to regulate intracytoplasmic retinoid trafficking and keratinocyte differentiation. Immunohistochemistry revealed a reduced epidermal and dermal CRABP-II expression in aged human and mouse skin. To better clarify the role of CRABP-II, we investigated age-related skin changes in CRABP-II knock-out mice. We documented an early reduction of keratinocyte layers, proliferation and differentiation rate, dermal and hypodermal thickness, pilosebaceous units and dermal vascularity in CRABP-II knock-out compared with wild-type mice. Ultrastructural investigation documented reduced number and secretion of epidermal lamellar bodies in CRABP-II knock-out compared with wild-type mice. Cultured CRABP-II knock-out-derived dermal fibroblasts proliferated less and showed reduced levels of TGF-β signal-related genes, Col1A1, Col1A2, and increased MMP2 transcripts compared with those from wild-type. Our data strongly support the hypothesis that a reduction of CRABP-II expression accelerates and promotes skin aging, and suggest CRABP-II as a novel target to improve the efficacy of retinoid-mediated anti-aging therapies.

Evolution of the use of antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics

OBJECTIVE

Skin health and beauty are a cornerstone of general well-being in humans. Anti-ageing cosmetics are used to provide a healthy and youthful appearance. Among the different cosmetic actives, antioxidants are incorporated in anti-ageing products due to their beneficial effects in preventing and minimizing the signs of skin ageing. This work aims to understand how anti-ageing formulations changed in the past 7 years regarding pure antioxidants composition.

METHODS

Data were collected from anti-ageing formulations commercialized in main stores and pharmacies in the Portuguese market. The study started on 2011 and was updated with products launched or whose composition has been renewed on 2013, 2015 or 2018.

RESULTS

Ascorbic acid and tocopherol and their derivatives were consistently the most used antioxidants in anti-ageing formulations; followed by niacinamide and retinyl palmitate. Seven ascorbic acid derivatives are currently used in anti-ageing formulations while only three tocopherol derivatives were identified in this study. Several combinations of antioxidants were routinely found, mainly tocopherol (or tocopherol derivatives) with other antioxidants and tocopherol with tocopherol derivatives. We have not identified emerging antioxidants with great impact in anti-ageing formulations even though niacinamide and retinyl palmitate exhibited over 10% more usage in 2018.

CONCLUSION

This insight is relevant to the cosmetic industry providing a better understanding of the scientific-based formulation of modern cosmetics and supports the need for innovative antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics.

Menopausal Acne - Challenges And Solutions

Although acne is a disease predominant in adolescence, it is being increasingly observed in adult life, including the menopausal period. The etiology of menopausal acne is multifactorial, with hormonal imbalance being the major culprit. There is a relative increase of androgens in the menopausal female that leads to clinical hyperandrogenism manifesting as acne, hirsutism and androgenetic alopecia. Other endocrine disorders including thyroid abnormalities, hyperprolactinemia and insulin resistance also play a role. Genetics, stress, dietary changes, lack of sleep and exercise and other lifestyle changes are implicated as trigger factors. Most menopausal women with isolated few acne lesions have normoandrogenic serum levels and do not require extensive investigations. However, baseline investigations including total testosterone are useful. Patients must also be evaluated for associated comorbidities such as obesity, diabetes, hypertension and dyslipidemia. A detailed history can help to exclude polycystic ovarian syndrome, late-onset congenital adrenal hyperplasia or medications as a cause of acne. The evaluation of menopausal acne and the approach to treatment depend on the severity of acne and associated features. In patients with mild acne without virilization, prolonged topical therapy is the mainstay of treatment. Though combined oral contraceptives are effective, they are relatively contraindicated in the postmenopausal period. Spironolactone is the first choice of therapy in the subset of patients that require oral anti-androgen therapy. Procedural treatment can be useful as it can also help in the treatment of associated acne scars and concomitant skin aging. It is also important to focus on lifestyle changes such as reducing stress, controlling obesity, having a healthy diet, exercise and proper skin care routine to reduce acne. The focus of this article is on the clinical presentation and management challenges of menopausal acne, which represents a special subtype of acne.

Scavenging of Retinoid Cation Radicals by Urate, Trolox, and α-, β-, γ-, and δ-Tocopherols

Retinoids are present in human tissues exposed to light and under increased risk of oxidative stress, such as the retina and skin. Retinoid cation radicals can be formed as a result of the interaction between retinoids and other radicals or photoexcitation with light. It has been shown that such semi-oxidized retinoids can oxidize certain amino acids and proteins, and that α-tocopherol can scavenge the cation radicals of retinol and retinoic acid. The aim of this study was to determine (i) whether β-, γ-, and δ-tocopherols can also scavenge these radicals, and (ii) whether tocopherols can scavenge the cation radicals of another form of vitamin A—retinal. The retinoid cation radicals were generated by the pulse radiolysis of benzene or aqueous solution in the presence of a selected retinoid under oxidizing conditions, and the kinetics of retinoid cation radical decays were measured in the absence and presence of different tocopherols, Trolox or urate. The bimolecular rate constants are the highest for the scavenging of cation radicals of retinal, (7 to 8) × 10⁹ M⁻¹·s⁻¹, followed by retinoic acid, (0.03 to 5.6) × 10⁹ M⁻¹·s⁻¹, and retinol, (0.08 to 1.6) × 10⁸ M⁻¹·s⁻¹. Delta-tocopherol is the least effective scavenger of semi-oxidized retinol and retinoic acid. The hydrophilic analogue of α-tocopherol, Trolox, is substantially less efficient at scavenging retinoid cation radicals than α-tocopherol and urate, but it is more efficient at scavenging the cation radicals of retinoic acid and retinol than δ-tocopherol. The scavenging rate constants indicate that tocopherols can effectively compete with amino acids and proteins for retinoid cation radicals, thereby protecting these important biomolecules from oxidation. Our results provide another mechanism by which tocopherols can diminish the oxidative damage to the skin and retina and thereby protect from skin photosensitivity and the development and/or progression of changes in blinding retinal diseases such as Stargardt’s disease and age-related macular degeneration (AMD).

Use of formulations for sensitive skin improves the visible signs of aging, including wrinkle size and elasticity

Background: Sensitive skin affects an increasingly large proportion of the population and is less tolerant to frequent and prolonged use of cosmetics. This study investigates the antiaging effects of a skin care system developed for use on sensitive skin. Methods: A total of 30 healthy Caucasian females, aged 32-72, were enrolled in this double-blind randomized placebo-controlled split-face study. A routine consisting of twice daily topical applications of the test cleanser and test moisturizer or placebo or positive control products was followed for 28 days, with parameters measured at baseline and at 7-day intervals. Objective skin assessments for hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface topography, elasticity and safety assessment were conducted. Results: Wrinkle surface, length and depth significantly improved by 34.8±4.7% (P<0.001), 19.0±3.2% (P<0.05) and 24.3±3.5% (P<0.05), respectively, after 28 days of skin care treatment with the test cleanser and test moisturizer. R2 (gross elasticity), R5 (net elasticity) and R7 (biological elasticity) significantly increased by 32.8±6.5% (P<0.001), 47.3±8.6% (P<0.001) and 50.6±5.1% (P<0.001), respectively, while R6 (viscoelastic portion) significantly decreased by 33.4±4.6% (P<0.001) after 28 days. Skin hydration was also found to increase significantly after 28 days by 42.2±8.5% (P<0.01), but there was no change in TEWL. No adverse events were reported. Conclusions: A novel skin care routine developed for use on sensitive skin significantly improves the signs of aging including hydration, wrinkle size and elasticity without significant adverse effects.

Molecular Mechanisms of Dermal Aging and Antiaging Approaches

The dermis is primarily composed of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and fibroblasts. During the aging process, the dermis undergoes significant changes. Collagen, which is a major component of ECM, becomes fragmented and coarsely distributed, and its total amount decreases. This is mainly due to increased activity of matrix metalloproteinases, and impaired transforming growth factor-β signaling induced by reactive oxygen species generated during aging. The reduction in the amount of collagen hinders the mechanical interaction between fibroblasts and the ECM, and consequently leads to the deterioration of fibroblast function and further decrease in the amount of dermal collagen. Other ECM components, including elastic fibers, glycosaminglycans (GAGs), and proteoglycans (PGs), also change during aging, ultimately leading to a reduction in the amount of functional components. Elastic fibers decrease in intrinsically aged skin, but accumulate abnormally in photoaged skin. The changes in the levels of GAGs and PGs are highly diverse, and previous studies have reported conflicting results. A reduction in the levels of functional dermal components results in the emergence of clinical aging features, such as wrinkles and reduced elasticity. Various antiaging approaches, including topicals, energy-based procedures, and dermal fillers, can restore the molecular features of dermal aging with clinical efficacy. This review summarizes the current understanding of skin aging at the molecular level, and associated treatments, to put some of the new antiaging technology that has emerged in this rapidly expanding field into molecular context.

The Use of Cosmeceuticals in Acne: Help or Hoax?

The use of cosmeceuticals by patients with acne is common; however, their role is unclear and confusing, with many asking, "Do they really help acne?" Cosmeceuticals are intermediate products between prescription medications and cosmetics, available to consumers over the counter. These products are popular and may be used without the direct supervision of a dermatologist, creating a practice gap in educating patients. Herein, a variety of cosmeceuticals are discussed, including retinoids, niacinamide, and glycolic acid. The evidence for and against cosmeceutical use in patients with acne is reviewed.

Topical stabilized retinol treatment induces the expression of HAS genes and HA production in human skin in vitro and in vivo

Skin Aging manifests primarily with wrinkles, dyspigmentations, texture changes, and loss of elasticity. During the skin aging process, there is a loss of moisture and elasticity in skin resulting in loss of firmness finally leading to skin sagging. The key molecule involved in skin moisture is hyaluronic acid (HA), which has a significant water-binding capacity. HA levels in skin decline with age resulting in decrease in skin moisture, which may contribute to loss of firmness. Clinical trials have shown that topically applied ROL effectively reduces wrinkles and helps retain youthful appearance. In the current study, ROL was shown to induce HA production and stimulates the gene expression of all three forms of hyaluronic acid synthases (HAS) in normal human epidermal keratinocytes monolayer cultures. Moreover, in human skin equivalent tissues and in human skin explants, topical treatment of tissues with a stabilized-ROL formulation significantly induced the gene expression of HAS mRNA concomitant with an increased HA production. Finally, in a vehicle-controlled human clinical study, histochemical analysis confirmed increased HA accumulation in the epidermis in ROL-treated human skin as compared to vehicle. These results show that ROL increases skin expression of HA, a significant contributing factor responsible for wrinkle formation and skin moisture, which decrease during aging. Taken together with the activity to increase collagen, elastin, and cell proliferation, these studies establish that retinol provides multi-functional activity for photodamaged skin.

A new dermocosmetic containing retinaldehyde, delta-tocopherol glucoside and glycylglycine oleamide for managing naturally aged skin: results from in vitro to clinical studies

INTRODUCTION

Natural aging of skin tissues, the addition of the cumulative action of the time and radiation exposure result in skin atrophy, wrinkles and degeneration of the extracellular matrix (ECM). The aim of the study was to investigate the beneficial effect of a combination containing retinaldehyde (RAL), delta-tocopherol glucoside (delta-TC) and glycylglycine ole-amide (GGO) and of a dermocosmetic containing the combination.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The protective effect of the combination was assessed through in vitro gene expression of ultraviolet (UV)-irradiated fibroblasts. A skin aging assay using UV light on ex vivo skin samples and a clinical study conducted in 36 women aged from 35 to 55 years with a minimum of level 4 to a maximum of level 6 on the crow's feet photoscale assessed the antiaging effect of the dermocosmetic.

RESULTS

When added to UV-irradiated fibroblasts, the combination substantially improved the ECM in activating the elastin fiber production (fibrillin 2, fibulin 1 and 5 and lysyl oxidase-like 2) as well as that of proteins involved in the cellular ECM interactions (integrin b1, paxillin and actin a2). An ex vivo photodamaged human skin model showed that the dermocosmetic formulation containing the combination of the active ingredients protected the elastic network against UV-induced alterations including both elastin and fibrillin-rich fibers in the dermis. A daily application of the dermocosmetic for 2 months on naturally aged skin resulted in a statistically significant improvement (p<0.05) of visible signs of aging comprising crow's feet, wrinkles and periocular fine lines. Finally, the formulation was well tolerated.

CONCLUSION

The dermocosmetic containing RAL, delta-TC and GGO provides a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women aged 35-55 years.

A Mixture of Extracts of Kochia scoparia and Rosa multiflora with PPAR α/γ Dual Agonistic Effects Prevents Photoaging in Hairless Mice

Activation of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPAR) α/γ is known to inhibit the increases in matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) and reactive oxygen species (ROS) induced by ultraviolet light (UV). Extracts of natural herbs, such as Kochia scoparia and Rosa multiflora, have a PPAR α/γ dual agonistic effect. Therefore, we investigated whether and how they have an antiaging effect on photoaging skin. Eighteen-week-old hairless mice were irradiated with UVA 14 J/cm² and UVB 40 mJ/cm² three times a week for 8 weeks. A mixture of extracts of Kochia scoparia and Rosa multiflora (KR) was topically applied on the dorsal skin of photoaging mice twice a day for 8 weeks. Tesaglitazar, a known PPAR α/γ agonist, and vehicle (propylene glycol:ethanol = 7:3, v/v) were applied as positive and negative controls, respectively. Dermal effects (including dermal thickness, collagen density, dermal expression of procollagen 1 and collagenase 13) and epidermal effects (including skin barrier function, epidermal proliferation, epidermal differentiation, and epidermal cytokines) were measured and compared. In photoaging murine skin, KR resulted in a significant recovery of dermal thickness as well as dermal fibroblasts, although it did not change dermal collagen density. KR increased the expression of dermal transforming growth factor (TGF)-β. The dermal effects of KR were explained by an increase in procollagen 1 expression, induced by TGF-β, and a decrease in MMP-13 expression. KR did not affect basal transepidermal water loss (TEWL) or stratum corneum (SC) integrity, but did decrease SC hydration. It also did not affect epidermal proliferation or epidermal differentiation. KR decreased the expression of epidermal interleukin (IL)-1α. Collectively, KR showed possible utility as a therapeutic agent for photoaging skin, with few epidermal side effects such as epidermal hyperplasia or poor differentiation.

RhoA controls retinoid signaling by ROCK dependent regulation of retinol metabolism

The ubiquitously expressed small GTPase RhoA is essential for embryonic development and mutated in different cancers. Functionally, it is well described as a regulator of the actin cytoskeleton, but its role in gene regulation is less understood. Using primary mouse keratinocytes with a deletion of the RhoA gene, we have now been exploring how the loss of RhoA affects gene expression. Performing transcription factor reporter assays, we found a significantly decreased activity of a RAR luciferase reporter in RhoA-null keratinocytes. Inhibition of the RhoA effector ROCK in control cells reproduced this phenotype. ATRA and retinal, but not retinol increased RAR reporter activity of keratinocytes with impaired RhoA/ROCK signaling, suggesting that retinol metabolism is regulated by RhoA/ROCK signaling. Furthermore a significant percentage of known ATRA target genes displayed altered expression in RhoA-null keratinocytes. These data reveal an unexpected link between the cytoskeletal regulator RhoA and retinoid signaling and uncover a novel pathway by which RhoA regulates gene expression.

Characterization of human short chain dehydrogenase/reductase SDR16C family members related to retinol dehydrogenase 10

All-trans-retinoic acid (RA) is a bioactive derivative of vitamin A that serves as an activating ligand for nuclear transcription factors, retinoic acid receptors. RA biosynthesis is initiated by the enzymes that oxidize retinol to retinaldehyde. It is well established that retinol dehydrogenase 10 (RDH10, SDR16C4), which belongs to the 16C family of the short chain dehydrogenase/reductase (SDR) superfamily of proteins, is the major enzyme responsible for the oxidation of retinol to retinaldehyde for RA biosynthesis during embryogenesis. However, several lines of evidence point towards the existence of additional retinol dehydrogenases that contribute to RA biosynthesis in vivo. In close proximity to RDH10 gene on human chromosome 8 are located two genes that are phylogenetically related to RDH10. The predicted protein products of these genes, retinol dehydrogenase epidermal 2 (RDHE2, SDR16C5) and retinol dehydrogenase epidermal 2-similar (RDHE2S, SDR16C6), share 59% and 56% sequence similarity with RDH10, respectively. Previously, we showed that the single ortholog of the human RDHE2 and RDHE2S in frogs, Xenopus laevis rdhe2, oxidizes retinol to retinaldehyde and is essential for frog embryonic development. In this study, we explored the potential of each of the two human proteins to contribute to RA biosynthesis. The results of this study demonstrate that human RDHE2 exhibits a relatively low but reproducible activity when expressed in either HepG2 or HEK293 cells. Expression of the native RDHE2 is downregulated in the presence of elevated levels of RA. On the other hand, the protein encoded by the human RDHE2S gene is unstable when expressed in HEK293 cells. RDHE2S protein produced in Sf9 cells is stable but has no detectable catalytic activity towards retinol. We conclude that the human RDHE2S does not contribute to RA biosynthesis, whereas the low-activity RA-sensitive human RDHE2 may have a role in adjusting the cellular levels of RA in accord with specific physiological conditions.

Retinoids: Literature Review and Suggested Algorithm for Use Prior to Facial Resurfacing Procedures

Vitamin A-containing products have been used topically since the early 1940s to treat various skin conditions. To date, there are four generations of retinoids, a family of Vitamin A-containing compounds. Tretinoin, all-trans-retinoic acid, is a first-generation, naturally occurring, retinoid. It is available, commercially, as a gel or cream. The authors conducted a complete review of all studies, clinical- and basic science-based studies, within the literature involving tretinoin treatment recommendations for impending facial procedures. The literature currently lacks definitive recommendations for the use of tretinoin-containing products prior to undergoing facial procedures. Tretinoin pretreatment regimens vary greatly in terms of the strength of retinoid used, the length of the pre-procedure treatment, and the ideal time to stop treatment before the procedure. Based on the current literature and personal experience, the authors set forth a set of guidelines for the use of tretinoin prior to various facial procedures.

Proretinal nanoparticles: stability, release, efficacy, and irritation

Despite many potent biological activities, retinoids such as retinoic acid (RA) and retinal possess dose-related broad side effects. In this study, we show that this problem, which has been unsolvable for a long time, can be tackled through a controlled release strategy in which retinal is continuously delivered to the skin via sustained release from proretinal nanoparticles. The water dispersible proretinal nanoparticles are stable when kept in water at neutral pH and at room temperature for 8 months under light-proof conditions, and show sustained release of retinal into human synthetic sebum at a pH of 5. In the daily topical application tests performed for 4 weeks on rats' skin, the nanoparticles showed superior ability to increase epidermal thickness compared to RA and retinal, with no skin irritation observed for the proretinal particles, but severe skin irritation observed for RA and free retinal. When tested under occlusion conditions in human volunteers, insignificant skin irritation was observed for the proretinal nanoparticles. The 12-week, double-blind, split-face study on human volunteers indicates better antiaging efficacy of the particles as compared to the free RA.

Levels of retinyl palmitate and retinol in stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis of SKH-1 mice

Vitamin A (retinol) regulates many biological functions, including epidermal cell growth. Retinyl palmitate (RP) is the major esterified form of retinol and the predominant component of retinoids in the skin; however, how endogenous levels of RP and retinol in the skin are affected by the age of the animal remains unknown. Furthermore, the levels of retinol and RP in the various skin layers- the stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis of skin- have not been reported. In this paper, we report the development of a convenient method for separation of the skin from SKH-1 female mice into the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis and the determination of the levels of RP and retinol in the three fractions by HPLC analysis. The total quantities of RP and retinol from the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis are comparable to those extracted from the same amount of intact skin from the same mouse. There was an age-related effect on the levels of RP and retinol in the skin and liver of female mice. An age-related effect was also observed in the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis. The levels of RP and retinol were highest in the epidermis of 20-week-old mice, and decreased when the age increased to 60- and 68-weeks. The total amount of RP at 20 weeks of age was found to be 1.52 ng/mg skin, and decreased about 4-fold at 60- and 68-weeks of age. A similar trend was found for the effects of age on the levels of retinol.

Levels of retinyl palmitate and retinol in the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis of female SKH-1 mice topically treated with retinyl palmitate

Retinyl esters are the storage form of vitamin A in skin, and retinyl palmitate (RP) accounts for the majority of the retinyl esters endogenously formed in skin. RP is also obtained exogenously through the topical application of cosmetic and skin care products that contain RP. There is limited information on the penetration and distribution of RP and vitamin Awithin the stratified layers of the skin. The purpose of these studies was to determine the time course for accumulation and disappearance of RP and retinol in the stratified layers of skin from female SKH-1 mice that received single or repeated topical applications of creams containing 0.5 or 2% of RP. We developed an HPLC method with detection limits of 5.94 and 1.62 ng, to simultaneously quantify the amount of RP and retinol, respectively, in skin samples. Our results showed that RP rapidly diffuses into the stratum corneum and epidermal skin layers within 24 h following the application of RP-containing creams. Of the three skin layers, the highest level of RP and retinol per weight unit (ng/mg) at all time points was found in the epidermis. Levels of RP and retinol were lowest in the dermal layer and intermediate in the stratum corneum. The levels of RP and retinol in the separated skin layers and in the intact skin decreased with time, but levels of RP remained higher than control values for a period of up to 18 days. Our results indicate that the application of RP to mouse skin alters the normal physiological levels of RP and retinol in the skin.