Molecular photoprotection of human keratinocytes in vitro by the naturally occurring mycosporine-like amino acid palythine

Novel synthetic UV screen compounds inspired in mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs): Antioxidant capacity, photoprotective properties and toxicity

The combination of environmental stress on the ozone layer, climate change and a greater sun exposure due to outdoor habits has led to an increase in skin cancer cases and other health issues related with UV radiation. Researchers are searching for new alternative UV filters that could protect our skin from the deleterious effects of UV radiation while also presenting low toxicity and biodegradable character (unlike the UV filters currently available in the market). In this work, two compounds inspired in the natural oxo-mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) have been synthesized and their antioxidant and photoprotective properties, as well as their in vitro and in vivo toxicity effects were evaluated. Both compounds featured a strong UV-B absorption together with a high antioxidant capacity, close to 50 μmol TE g-1 DW in the ABTS assay. Compound 1 presented an absorption peak at 285-300 nm, whereas compound 2 showed a wider band with a peak around 295-305 nm and two shoulders at 318 and 342 nm. The addition of 5 % of compound 2 to galenic formulas increased the photoprotection, reaching SPF values of 4. Both compounds were stable under UV radiation exposure. Regarding toxicity, the synthetic compounds did not show cytotoxic activity against healthy human cell lines or significant toxicity over zebrafish embryos. Compound 1 showed a complete lack of toxicity over zebrafish, although compound 2 showed slight, not-significant effects on viability, hatching, pericardial stability or body axis formation over 5 mg mL-1. Moreover, compound 1 presented relatively antitumoral activities against HCT-116 cells (selective index:1.49). The relevant antioxidant and photoprotective ability together with the great advantage provided by the reduced toxicity to health cells or zebrafish embryos, make these compounds promising candidates to be exploited as functional ingredients with specific applications in the biotechnological or pharma sector.

Extraction, characterization and antioxidative potentials of UV-screening compound, mycosporine-like amino acids from epilithic cyanobacterium Lyngbya sp. HKAR - 15

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are a unique class of UV-screening bioactive molecules with potent antioxidants and photoprotective properties, synthesized by various species of cyanobacteria in different habitats. The cyanobacterial biofilms play a crucial driver in the development of ecological communities. The current study examined the existence of the photoprotective MAAs in a novel epilithic cyanobacterium Lyngbya sp. strain HKAR-15 isolated from cyanobacterial biofilms on the rock surface. The isolated MAAs were identified, purified and characterized using UV-Vis spectroscopy, HPLC (High-Performance Liquid Chromatography), ESI-MS (Electrospray Ionization-Mass Spectrometry), FTIR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy) and NMR (Nuclear Magnetic Resonance). The compounds were recognized as palythine (retention time (RT): 2.7 min; UV λmax: 320 nm; m/z: 245.02) and porphyra-334 (RT: 3.6 min; UV λmax: 334 nm; m/z: 347.1). FTIR spectroscopy analyses also revealed the presence of functional groups of both compounds. NMR spectroscopy analyses confirmed the presence of both palythine and porphyra-334. The UV-induced production of both MAAs was visualized under ultraviolet radiation (UVR) in contrast to the photosynthetically active radiation (PAR). The MAAs (palythine and porphyra-334) had a significant dose-dependent free radical scavenging capacity. The findings show that MAAs perform a dynamic role in the survival and photoprotection of cyanobacteria in hostile environments under high solar UV irradiances. These photoprotective compounds may have various biotechnological applications as well as role in the development of natural sunscreens.

Biotechnological Potential of Macroalgae during Seasonal Blooms for Sustainable Production of UV-Absorbing Compounds

Marine macroalgae (seaweeds) are important primary global producers, with a wide distribution in oceans around the world from polar to tropical regions. Most of these species are exposed to variable environmental conditions, such as abiotic (e.g., light irradiance, temperature variations, nutrient availability, salinity levels) and biotic factors (e.g., grazing and pathogen exposure). As a result, macroalgae developed numerous important strategies to increase their adaptability, including synthesizing secondary metabolites, which have promising biotechnological applications, such as UV-absorbing Mycosporine-Like Amino Acid (MAAs). MAAs are small, water-soluble, UV-absorbing compounds that are commonly found in many marine organisms and are characterized by promising antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and photoprotective properties. However, the widespread use of MAAs by humans is often restricted by their limited bioavailability, limited success in heterologous expression systems, and low quantities recovered from the natural environment. In contrast, bloom-forming macroalgal species from all three major macroalgal clades (Chlorophyta, Phaeophyceae, and Rhodophyta) occasionally form algal blooms, resulting in a rapid increase in algal abundance and high biomass production. This review focuses on the bloom-forming species capable of producing pharmacologically important compounds, including MAAs, and the application of proteomics in facilitating macroalgal use in overcoming current environmental and biotechnological challenges.

Recent Advances and Future Prospects of Mycosporine-like Amino Acids

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are a class of water-soluble active substances produced by various aquatic organisms. However, due to the limitations of low accumulation of MAAs in organisms, the cumbersome extraction process, difficult identification, and high cost, MAAs have not yet been widely used in human life. Recently, there has been an emergence of heterologous synthesis for MAAs, making increasing yield the key to the quantification and application of MAAs. This review summarizes the latest research progress of MAAs, including: (1) introducing the biodistribution of MAAs and the content differences among different species to provide a reference for the selection of research subjects; (2) elaborating the species and molecular information of MAAs; (3) dissecting the synthesis mechanism and sorting out the synthesis pathways of various MAAs; (4) summarizing the methods of extraction and identification, summarizing the advantages and disadvantages, and providing a reference for the optimization of extraction protocols; (5) examining the heterologous synthesis method; and (6) summarizing the physiological functions of MAAs. This paper comprehensively updates the latest research status of MAAs and the various problems that need to be addressed, especially emphasizing the potential advantages of heterologous synthesis in the future production of MAAs.

Isolation of Mycosporine-like Amino Acids from Red Macroalgae and a Marine Lichen by High-Performance Countercurrent Chromatography: A Strategy to Obtain Biological UV-Filters

Marine organisms have gained considerable biotechnological interest in recent years due to their wide variety of bioactive compounds with potential applications. Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are UV-absorbing secondary metabolites with antioxidant and photoprotective capacity, mainly found in organisms living under stress conditions (e.g., cyanobacteria, red algae, or lichens). In this work, five MAAs were isolated from two red macroalgae (Pyropia columbina and Gelidium corneum) and one marine lichen (Lichina pygmaea) by high-performance countercurrent chromatography (HPCCC). The selected biphasic solvent system consisted of ethanol, acetonitrile, saturated ammonium sulphate solution, and water (1:1:0.5:1; v:v:v:v). The HPCCC process for P. columbina and G. corneum consisted of eight separation cycles (1 g and 200 mg of extract per cycle, respectively), whereas three cycles were performed for of L. pygmaea (1.2 g extract per cycle). The separation process resulted in fractions enriched with palythine (2.3 mg), asterina-330 (3.3 mg), shinorine (14.8 mg), porphyra-334 (203.5 mg) and mycosporine-serinol (46.6 mg), which were subsequently desalted by using precipitation with methanol and permeation on a Sephadex G-10 column. Target molecules were identified by HPLC, MS, and NMR.

Exploring Mycosporine-like Amino Acid UV-Absorbing Natural Products for a New Generation of Environmentally Friendly Sunscreens

Human skin needs additional protection from damaging ultraviolet radiation (UVR: 280-400 nm). Harmful UVR exposure leads to DNA damage and the development of skin cancer. Available sunscreens offer chemical protection from detrimental sun radiation to a certain extent. However, many synthetic sunscreens do not provide sufficient UVR protection due to the lack of photostability of their UV-absorbing active ingredients and/or the lack of ability to prevent the formation of free radicals, inevitably leading to skin damage. In addition, synthetic sunscreens may negatively affect human skin, causing irritation, accelerating skin aging and even resulting in allergic reactions. Beyond the potential negative effect on human health, some synthetic sunscreens have been shown to have a harmful impact on the environment. Consequently, identifying photostable, biodegradable, non-toxic, and renewable natural UV filters is imperative to address human health needs and provide a sustainable environmental solution. In nature, marine, freshwater, and terrestrial organisms are protected from harmful UVR through several important photoprotective mechanisms, including the synthesis of UV-absorbing compounds such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). Beyond MAAs, several other promising, natural UV-absorbing products could be considered for the future development of natural sunscreens. This review investigates the damaging impact of UVR on human health and the necessity of using sunscreens for UV protection, specifically UV-absorbing natural products that are more environmentally friendly than synthetic UV filters. Critical challenges and limitations related to using MAAs in sunscreen formulations are also evaluated. Furthermore, we explain how the genetic diversity of MAA biosynthetic pathways may be linked to their bioactivities and assess MAAs' potential for applications in human health.

Marine Natural Products as Innovative Cosmetic Ingredients

Over the course of the last 20 years, numerous studies have identified the benefits of an array of marine natural ingredients for cosmetic purposes, as they present unique characteristics not found in terrestrial organisms. Consequently, several marine-based ingredients and bioactive compounds are under development, used or considered for skin care and cosmetics. Despite the multitude of cosmetics based on marine sources, only a small proportion of their full potential has been exploited. Many cosmetic industries have turned their attention to the sea to obtain innovative marine-derived compounds for cosmetics, but further research is needed to determine and elucidate the benefits. This review gathers information on the main biological targets for cosmetic ingredients, different classes of marine natural products of interest for cosmetic applications, and the organisms from which such products can be sourced. Although organisms from different phyla present different and varied bioactivities, the algae phylum seems to be the most promising for cosmetic applications, presenting compounds of many classes. In fact, some of these compounds present higher bioactivities than their commercialized counterparts, demonstrating the potential presented by marine-derived compounds for cosmetic applications (i.e., Mycosporine-like amino acids and terpenoids’ antioxidant activity). This review also summarizes the major challenges and opportunities faced by marine-derived cosmetic ingredients to successfully reach the market. As a future perspective, we consider that fruitful cooperation among academics and cosmetic industries could lead to a more sustainable market through responsible sourcing of ingredients, implementing ecological manufacturing processes, and experimenting with inventive recycling and reuse programs.

Biomolecules from Macroalgae-Nutritional Profile and Bioactives for Novel Food Product Development

Seaweed is in the spotlight as a promising source of nutrition for humans as the search for sustainable food production systems continues. Seaweed has a well-documented rich nutritional profile containing compounds such as polyphenols, carotenoids and polysaccharides as well as proteins, fatty acids and minerals. Seaweed processing for the extraction of functional ingredients such as alginate, agar, and carrageenan is well-established. Novel pretreatments such as ultrasound assisted extraction or high-pressure processing can be incorporated to more efficiently extract these targeted ingredients. The scope of products that can be created using seaweed are wide ranging: from bread and noodles to yoghurt and milk and even as an ingredient to enhance the nutritional profile and stability of meat products. There are opportunities for food producers in this area to develop novel food products using seaweed. This review paper discusses the unique properties of seaweed as a food, the processes involved in seaweed aquaculture, and the products that can be developed from this marine biomass. Challenges facing the industry such as consumer hesitation around seaweed products, the safety of seaweed, and processing hurdles will also be discussed.

Exploring the Relationship between Biosynthetic Gene Clusters and Constitutive Production of Mycosporine-like Amino Acids in Brazilian Cyanobacteria

Cyanobacteria are oxygenic phototrophic prokaryotes that have evolved to produce ultraviolet-screening mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) to lessen harmful effects from obligatory exposure to solar UV radiation. The cyanobacterial MAA biosynthetic cluster is formed by a gene encoding 2-epi-5-epi-valiolone synthase (EVS) located immediately upstream from an O-methyltransferase (OMT) encoding gene, which together biosynthesize the expected MAA precursor 4-deoxygadusol. Accordingly, these genes are typically absent in non-producers. In this study, the relationship between gene cluster architecture and constitutive production of MAAs was evaluated in cyanobacteria isolated from various Brazilian biomes. Constitutive production of MAAs was only detected in strains where genes formed a co-linear cluster. Expectedly, this production was enhanced upon exposure of the strains to UV irradiance and by using distinct culture media. Constitutive production of MAAs was not detected in all other strains and, unexpectedly, production could not be induced by exposure to UV irradiation or changing growth media. Other photoprotection strategies which might be employed by these MAA non-producing strains are discussed. The evolutionary and ecological significance of gene order conservation warrants closer experimentation, which may provide a first insight into regulatory interactions of genes encoding enzymes for MAA biosynthesis.

Enhancing Bioproducts in Seaweeds via Sustainable Aquaculture: Antioxidant and Sun-Protection Compounds

Marine macroalgae are considered an untapped source of healthy natural metabolites and their market demand is rapidly increasing. Intertidal macroalgae present chemical defense mechanisms that enable them to thrive under changing environmental conditions. These intracellular chemicals include compounds that can be used for human benefit. The aim of this study was to test cultivation protocols that direct seaweed metabolic responses to enhance the production of target antioxidant and photoprotective biomaterials. We present an original integrated multi-trophic aquaculture (IMTA) design, based on a two-phase cultivation plan, in which three seaweed species were initially fed by fish effluents, and subsequently exposed to various abiotic stresses, namely, high irradiance, nutrient starvation, and high salinity. The combined effect of the IMTA's high nutrient concentrations and/or followed by the abiotic stressors enhanced the seaweeds' content of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) by 2.3-fold, phenolic compounds by 1.4-fold, and their antioxidant capacity by 1.8-fold. The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) rose by 2.7-fold, and the chlorophyll and phycobiliprotein synthesis was stimulated dramatically by an order of magnitude. Our integrated cultivation system design offers a sustainable approach, with the potential to be adopted by emerging industries for food and health applications.

Rhodophyta as Potential Sources of Photoprotectants, Antiphotoaging Compounds, and Hydrogels for Cosmeceutical Application

Seaweeds are macroscopic, multicellular, eukaryotic and photosynthetic organisms, and are a source of chemical diversity with powerful biological activities for diversified industrial applications including cosmeceuticals. Red seaweeds (Rhodophyta) are good sources of Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA) for photoprotectant and antiphotoaging compounds. In addition, Rhodophyta are also good sources for hydrogel compounds that are used widely in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries as gelling agents, moisturizers or for their antiphotoaging effects. Our survey and ongoing studies revealed that the biodiversity of Indonesian Rhodophyta is rich and is a treasure trove for cosmeceutical agents including MAA and hydrogels. This study delivers valuable information for identifying potential red seaweeds in screening and searching for cosmeceutical agents.

Molecular mechanisms of Marine-Derived Natural Compounds as photoprotective strategies

Excessive exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) causes oxidative stress, inflammation, immunosuppression, apoptosis, and changes in the extracellular matrix, which lead to the development of photoaging and photodamage of skin. At the molecular level, these pathological changes are mainly caused by the activation of related protein kinases and downstream transcription pathways, the increase of matrix metalloproteinase, the formation of reactive oxygen species, and the combined action of cytokines and inflammatory mediators. At present, the photostability, toxicity, and damage to marine ecosystems of most sun protection products in the market have affected their efficacy and safety. Another way is to use natural products produced by various marine species. Marine organisms have evolved a variety of molecular strategies to protect themselves from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, and their unique chemicals have attracted more and more attention in the research of photoprotection and photoaging resistance. This article provides an extensive description of the recent literature on the potential of Marine-Derived Natural Compounds (MDNCs) as photoprotective and photoprotective agents. It reviews the positive effects of MDNCs in counteracting UV-induced oxidative stress, inflammation, DNA damage, apoptosis, immunosuppression, and extracellular matrix degradation. Some MDNCs have the potential to develop feasible solutions for related phenomena, such as photoaging and photodamage caused by UVR.

Genome Mining as an Alternative Way for Screening the Marine Organisms for Their Potential to Produce UV-Absorbing Mycosporine-like Amino Acid

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are small molecules with robust ultraviolet (UV)-absorbing capacities and a huge potential to be used as an environmentally friendly natural sunscreen. MAAs, temperature, and light-stable compounds demonstrate powerful photoprotective capacities and the ability to capture light in the UV-A and UV-B ranges without the production of damaging free radicals. The biotechnological uses of these secondary metabolites have been often limited by the small quantities restored from natural resources, variation in MAA expression profiles, and limited success in heterologous expression systems. Overcoming these obstacles requires a better understanding of MAA biosynthesis and its regulatory processes. MAAs are produced to a certain extent via a four-enzyme pathway, including genes encoding enzymes dehydroquinate synthase, enzyme O-methyltransferase, adenosine triphosphate grasp, and a nonribosomal peptide synthetase. However, there are substantial genetic discrepancies in the MAA genetic pathway in different species, suggesting further complexity of this pathway that is yet to be fully explored. In recent years, the application of genome-mining approaches allowed the identification of biosynthetic gene clusters (BGCs) that resulted in the discovery of many new compounds from unconventional sources. This review explores the use of novel genomics tools for linking BGCs and secondary metabolites based on the available omics data, including MAAs, and evaluates the potential of using novel genome-mining tools to reveal a cryptic potential for new bioproduct screening approaches and unrevealing new MAA producers.

Triplet-Energy Quenching Functions of Antioxidant Molecules

UV-like DNA damage is created in the dark by chemiexcitation, in which UV-activated enzymes generate reactive oxygen and nitrogen species that create a dioxetane on melanin. Thermal cleavage creates an electronically excited triplet-state carbonyl whose high energy transfers to DNA. Screening natural compounds for the ability to quench this energy identified polyenes, polyphenols, mycosporine-like amino acids, and related compounds better known as antioxidants. To eliminate false positives such as ROS and RNS scavengers, we then used the generator of triplet-state acetone, tetramethyl-1,2-dioxetane (TMD), to excite the triplet-energy reporter 9,10-dibromoanthracene-2-sulfonate (DBAS). Quenching measured as reduction in DBAS luminescence revealed three clusters of 50% inhibitory concentration, ~50 μM, 200–500 μM, and >600 μM, with the former including sorbate, ferulic acid, and resveratrol. Representative triplet-state quenchers prevented chemiexcitation-induced “dark” cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (dCPD) in DNA and in UVA-irradiated melanocytes. We conclude that (i) the delocalized pi electron cloud that stabilizes the electron-donating activity of many common antioxidants allows the same molecule to prevent an electronically excited species from transferring its triplet-state energy to targets such as DNA and (ii) the most effective class of triplet-state quenchers appear to operate by energy diversion instead of electron donation and dissipate that energy by isomerization.

The photoprotective properties of α-tocopherol phosphate against long-wave UVA1 (385 nm) radiation in keratinocytes in vitro

UVA1 radiation (340–400 nm), especially longwave UVA1 (> 370 nm), is often ignored when assessing sun protection due to its low sunburning potential, but it generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) and is poorly attenuated by sunscreens. This study aimed to investigate if α-tocopherol phosphate, (α-TP) a promising new antioxidant, could protect against long-wave UVA1 induced cell death and scavenge UVA1 induced ROS in a skin cell model. HaCaT keratinocyte cell viability (24 h) was assessed with Alamar Blue and Neutral Red assays. The metabolism of α-TP into α-T, assessed using mass spectrometry, and the compound's radical scavenging efficacy, assessed by the dichlorodihydrofluorescein (H2DCFDA) ROS detection assay, was monitored in HaCaTs. The mechanism of α-TP ROS scavenging was determined using non-cell based DPPH and ORAC assays. In HaCaT keratinocytes, irradiated with 226 J/cm² UVA1 in low-serum (2%, starved) cell culture medium, pretreatment with 80 µM α-TP significantly enhanced cell survival (88%, Alamar Blue) compared to control, whereas α-T pre-treatment had no effect survival (70%, Alamar Blue). Pre-treatment of cells with 100 μM α-TP or 100 μM α-T before 57 J/cm² UVA1 also significantly reduced ROS generation over 2 h (24.1% and 23.9% respectively) compared to the control and resulted in α-TP bioconversion into α-T. As α-TP displayed weak antioxidant activity in the cell-free assays thus its photoprotection was assigned to its bioconversion to α-T by cellular phosphatases. Through this mechanism α-TP prevented long-wave UVA1 induced cell death and scavenged UVA1 induced ROS in skin cells when added to the starved cell culture medium before UVA1 exposure by bioconversion into α-T.

Dynamics of the Metabolome of Aliinostoc sp. PMC 882.14 in Response to Light and Temperature Variations

Cyanobacteria are microorganisms able to adapt to a wide variety of environmental conditions and abiotic stresses. They produce a large number of metabolites that can participate in the dynamic adaptation of cyanobacteria to a range of different light, temperature, and nutrient conditions. Studying the metabolite profile is one way to understand how the physiological status of cells is related to their adaptive response. In this study, we sought to understand how the diversity and dynamics of the whole metabolome depended on the growth phase and various abiotic factors such as light intensity and temperature. The cyanobacterium, Aliinostoc sp. PMC 882.14, was selected for its large number of biosynthetic gene clusters. One group of cells was grown under normal conditions as a control, while other groups were grown under higher light or temperature. Metabolomes were analyzed by mass spectrometry (qTOF-MS/MS) combined with untargeted analysis to investigate metabolite dynamics, and significant variation was found between exponential and stationary phases, regardless of culture conditions. In the higher light group, the synthesis of several metabolites, including shinorine, was induced while other metabolites, such as microviridins, were synthesized under higher temperature conditions. Among highly regulated metabolites, we observed the presence of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) and variants of somamides, microginins, and microviridins. This study demonstrated the importance of considering the physiological state of cyanobacteria for comparative global metabolomics and studies of the regulatory processes involved in production of specific metabolites. Our results also open up new perspectives on the use of organisms such as cyanobacteria for the targeted production of bioactive metabolites.

From Sea to Skin: Is There a Future for Natural Photoprotectants?

In the last few decades, the thinning of the ozone layer due to increased atmospheric pollution has exacerbated the negative effects of excessive exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR), and skin cancer has become a major public health concern. In order to prevent skin damage, public health advice mainly focuses on the use of sunscreens, along with wearing protective clothing and avoiding sun exposure during peak hours. Sunscreens present on the market are topical formulations that contain a number of different synthetic, organic, and inorganic UVR filters with different absorbance profiles, which, when combined, provide broad UVR spectrum protection. However, increased evidence suggests that some of these compounds cause subtle damage to marine ecosystems. One alternative may be the use of natural products that are produced in a wide range of marine species and are mainly thought to act as a defense against UVR-mediated damage. However, their potential for human photoprotection is largely under-investigated. In this review, attention has been placed on the molecular strategies adopted by marine organisms to counteract UVR-induced negative effects and we provide a broad portrayal of the recent literature concerning marine-derived natural products having potential as natural sunscreens/photoprotectants for human skin. Their chemical structure, UVR absorption properties, and their pleiotropic role as bioactive molecules are discussed. Most studies strongly suggest that these natural products could be promising for use in biocompatible sunscreens and may represent an alternative eco-friendly approach to protect humans against UV-induced skin damage.

Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids from Red Macroalgae: UV-Photoprotectors with Potential Cosmeceutical Applications

Macroalgae belong to a diverse group of organisms that could be exploited for biomolecule application. Among the biocompounds found in this group, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are highlighted mainly due to their photoprotection, antioxidant properties, and high photo and thermo-stability, which are attractive characteristics for the development of cosmeceutical products. Therefore, here we revise published data about MAAs, including their biosynthesis, biomass production, extraction, characterization, identification, purification, and bioactivities. MAAs can be found in many algae species, but the highest concentrations are found in red macroalgae, mainly in the order Bangiales, as Porphyra spp. In addition to the species, the content of MAAs can vary depending on environmental factors, of which solar radiation and nitrogen availability are the most influential. MAAs can confer photoprotection due to their capacity to absorb ultraviolet radiation or reduce the impact of free radicals on cells, among other properties. To extract these compounds, different approaches can be used. The efficiency of these methods can be evaluated with characterization and identification using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), associated with other apparatus such as mass spectrometry (MS) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). Therefore, the data presented in this review allow a broad comprehension of MAAs and show perspectives for their inclusion in cosmeceutical products.

Exploring Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids (MAAs) as Safe and Natural Protective Agents against UV-Induced Skin Damage

Prolonged exposure to harmful ultraviolet radiation (UVR) can induce many chronic or acute skin disorders in humans. To protect themselves, many people have started to apply cosmetic products containing UV-screening chemicals alone or together with physical sunblocks, mainly based on titanium–dioxide (TiO₂) or zinc-oxide (ZnO₂). However, it has now been shown that the use of chemical and physical sunblocks is not safe for long-term application, so searches for the novel, natural UV-screening compounds derived from plants or bacteria are gaining attention. Certain photosynthetic organisms such as algae and cyanobacteria have evolved to cope with exposure to UVR by producing mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). These are promising substitutes for chemical sunscreens containing commercially available sunblock filters. The use of biopolymers such as chitosan for joining MAAs together or with MAA-Np (nanoparticles) conjugates will provide stability to MAAs similar to the mixing of chemical and physical sunscreens. This review critically describes UV-induced skin damage, problems associated with the use of chemical and physical sunscreens, cyanobacteria as a source of MAAs, the abundance of MAAs and their biotechnological applications. We also narrate the effectiveness and application of MAAs and MAA conjugates on skin cell lines.

Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids (MAAs): Biology, Chemistry and Identification Features

Mycosporines and mycosporine-like amino acids are ultra-violet-absorbing compounds produced by several organisms such as lichens, fungi, algae and cyanobacteria, especially upon exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation. These compounds have photoprotective and antioxidant functions. Mycosporine-like amino acids have been used as a natural bioactive ingredient in cosmetic products. Several reviews have already been developed on these photoprotective compounds, but they focus on specific features. Herein, an extremely complete database on mycosporines and mycosporine-like amino acids, covering the whole class of these natural sunscreen compounds known to date, is presented. Currently, this database has 74 compounds and provides information about the chemistry, absorption maxima, protonated mass, fragments and molecular structure of these UV-absorbing compounds as well as their presence in organisms. This platform completes the previous reviews and is available online for free and in the public domain. This database is a useful tool for natural product data mining, dereplication studies, research working in the field of UV-absorbing compounds mycosporines and being integrated in mass spectrometry library software.

Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids from Marine Resource

In the last 10 years, a great number of publications (both regular papers and reviews) have been published on the interesting molecules—mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). Despite significant advances in the research of MAAs, current overviews in the recent publications involving MAA research still need reporting. The aim of this Special Issue is to join, as an interdisciplinary approach, the photochemical and photobiological aspects, with emphasis on new natural resources to obtain both algae and zooplankton MAAs, advances in methodology of extraction and chemical identification of new MAAs. Finally, this Special Issue reviews the bioactivities of MAAs including UVR screen, antioxidant, immunostimulant, growth factor, DNA protection, inhibition of collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase, and anti-photoaging, among others, and their potential use as nutracosmeceutic molecules (i.e., oral and topic photoprotector).

Cyanobacteria and Red Macroalgae as Potential Sources of Antioxidants and UV Radiation-Absorbing Compounds for Cosmeceutical Applications

In recent years, research on natural products has gained considerable attention, particularly in the cosmetic industry, which is looking for new bio-active and biodegradable molecules. In this study, cosmetic properties of cyanobacteria and red macroalgae were analyzed. The extractions were conducted in different solvents (water, ethanol and two combinations of water:ethanol). The main molecules with antioxidant and photoprotective capacity were mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), scytonemin and phenolic compounds. The highest contents of scytonemin (only present in cyanobacteria) were observed in Scytonema sp. (BEA 1603B) and Lyngbya sp. (BEA 1328B). The highest concentrations of MAAs were found in the red macroalgae Porphyra umbilicalis, Gelidium corneum and Osmundea pinnatifida and in the cyanobacterium Lyngbya sp. Scytonema sp. was the unique species that presented an MAA with maximum absorption in the UV-B band, being identified as mycosporine-glutaminol for the first time in this species. The highest content of polyphenols was observed in Scytonema sp. and P. umbilicalis. Water was the best extraction solvent for MAAs and phenols, whereas scytonemin was better extracted in a less polar solvent such as ethanol:_dH₂O (4:1). Cyanobacterium extracts presented higher antioxidant activity than those of red macroalgae. Positive correlations of antioxidant activity with different molecules, especially polyphenols, biliproteins and MAAs, were observed. Hydroethanolic extracts of some species incorporated in creams showed an increase in the photoprotection capacity in comparison with the base cream. Extracts of these organisms could be used as natural photoprotectors improving the diversity of sunscreens. The combination of different extracts enriched in scytonemin and MAAs could be useful to design broad-band natural UV-screen cosmeceutical products.

Metabolism and Functions of Amino Acids in the Skin

Amino acids are the building blocks of all proteins, including the most abundant fibrous proteins in the skin, as keratins, collagen and elastin. Sagging and wrinkled skin are features of chronic sun-damaged and aged uncared skin, and they are mainly associated with the deterioration of collagen and elastic fibers. The maintenance of skin structures by self-repair processes is essential to skin health. Thus, amino acids significantly impact the appearance of the skin. Amino acids are important nutrients required for (a) wound healing promotion and repair of the damaged skin; (b) acid-base balance and water retention in cellular layers, such as stratum corneum; (c) protection against sunlight damage; (d) maintenance of an appropriate skin microbiome. This review highlights the contribution of all proteinogenic amino acids and some related metabolites to the skin structures as constituents of the main cutaneous proteins or as signaling molecules for the regulation and determination of skin physiology.

Mycosporine-like amino acids stimulate hyaluronan secretion by up-regulating hyaluronan synthase 2 via activation of the p38/MSK1/CREB/c-Fos/AP-1 axis

Hyaluronan (HA) is an extracellular matrix glycosaminoglycan that critically supports the physicochemical and mechanical properties of the skin. Here, we demonstrate that mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), which typically function as UV-absorbing compounds, can stimulate HA secretion from normal human fibroblasts. MAA-stimulated HA secretion was associated with significantly increased and decreased levels of mRNAs encoding HA synthase 2 (HAS2) and the HA-binding protein involved in HA depolymerization (designated HYBID), respectively. Using immunoblotting, we found that MAAs at 10 and at 25 μg/ml stimulate the phosphorylation of the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) p38, extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK)/c-Jun, and mitogen- and stress-activated protein kinase 1 (MSK1) (at Thr-581, Ser-360, and Ser-376, respectively) and activation of cAMP-responsive element-binding protein (CREB) and activating transcription factor 2 (ATF2), but not phosphorylation of JUN N-terminal kinase (JNK) or NF-κB (at Ser-276 or Ser-536, respectively), and increased c-Fos protein levels. Moreover, a p38-specific inhibitor, but not inhibitors of MAPK/ERK kinase (MEK), JNK, or NF-κB, significantly abrogated the increased expression of HAS2 mRNA, accompanied by significantly decreased MAA-stimulated HA secretion. These results suggested that the p38-MSK1-CREB-c-Fos-transcription factor AP-1 (AP-1) or the p38-ATF2 signaling cascade is responsible for the MAA-induced stimulation of HAS2 gene expression. Of note, siRNA-mediated ATF2 silencing failed to abrogate MAA-stimulated HAS2 expression, and c-Fos silencing abolished the increased expression of HAS2 mRNA. Our findings suggest that MAAs stimulate HA secretion by up-regulating HAS2 mRNA levels through activation of an intracellular signaling cascade consisting of p38, MSK1, CREB, c-Fos, and AP-1.

Marine-Derived Polymeric Materials and Biomimetics: An Overview

The review covers recent literature on the ocean as both a source of biotechnological tools and as a source of bio-inspired materials. The emphasis is on marine biomacromolecules namely hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, peptides, collagen, enzymes, polysaccharides from algae, and secondary metabolites like mycosporines. Their specific biological, physicochemical and structural properties together with relevant applications in biocomposite materials have been included. Additionally, it refers to the marine organisms as source of inspiration for the design and development of sustainable and functional (bio)materials. Marine biological functions that mimic reef fish mucus, marine adhesives and structural colouration are explained.

Photoprotection and Skin Pigmentation: Melanin-Related Molecules and Some Other New Agents Obtained from Natural Sources

Direct sun exposure is one of the most aggressive factors for human skin. Sun radiation contains a range of the electromagnetic spectrum including UV light. In addition to the stratospheric ozone layer filtering the most harmful UVC, human skin contains a photoprotective pigment called melanin to protect from UVB, UVA, and blue visible light. This pigment is a redox UV-absorbing agent and functions as a shield to prevent direct UV action on the DNA of epidermal cells. In addition, melanin indirectly scavenges reactive oxygenated species (ROS) formed during the UV-inducing oxidative stress on the skin. The amounts of melanin in the skin depend on the phototype. In most phenotypes, endogenous melanin is not enough for full protection, especially in the summertime. Thus, photoprotective molecules should be added to commercial sunscreens. These molecules should show UV-absorbing capacity to complement the intrinsic photoprotection of the cutaneous natural pigment. This review deals with (a) the use of exogenous melanin or melanin-related compounds to mimic endogenous melanin and (b) the use of a number of natural compounds from plants and marine organisms that can act as UV filters and ROS scavengers. These agents have antioxidant properties, but this feature usually is associated to skin-lightening action. In contrast, good photoprotectors would be able to enhance natural cutaneous pigmentation. This review examines flavonoids, one of the main groups of these agents, as well as new promising compounds with other chemical structures recently obtained from marine organisms.

A Randomized Study to Determine the Sun Protection Factor of Natural Pterostilbene from Pterocarpus Marsupium

Ultraviolet (UV) rays and its harmful effects have always been a concern to skin health. Sunscreen and sunblock prevent the harmful effects of UV radiation on the skin. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is an indication of the sun-protective capacity of an ingredient. There is an ever increasing interest in the cosmetic industry for developing novel functional ingredients from natural sources. The purpose of this study was to determine in-vitro and in vivo SPF of natural 90% pterostilbene extracted from the dried heartwood of Pterocarpus marsupium (Indian Kino). The SPF of purified pterostilbene and a formulation containing 0.4% pterostilbene was determined In Vitro using a UV spectrophotometer. Pterostilbene had an SPF of 21.73 ± 0.06, while the cream formulation had an SPF of 8.84 ± 0.01. The in vivo SPF of the 0.4% pterostilbene cream in humans was found to be 6.2 ± 1.30. Primary skin irritation tests in human subjects showed the formulation was safe and had no irritation potential. Pterostilbene was also found to have significant antioxidant activity as determined by free radical scavenging assays in vitro. These results suggest that natural pterostilbene is an antioxidant and shows SPF value both in-vitro and in the human clinical study and thus could be used as an ingredient in topical sun-protective formulations.

Absolute Configuration of Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids, Their Wound Healing Properties and In Vitro Anti-Aging Effects

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are water-soluble metabolites, reported to exhibit strong UV-absorbing properties. They have been found in a wide range of marine organisms, especially those that are exposed to extreme levels of sunlight, to protect them against solar radiation. In the present study, the absolute configuration of 14 mycosporine-like-amino acids was determined by combining the results of electronic circular dichroism (ECD) experiments and that of advanced Marfey's method using LC-MS. The crystal structure of a shinorine hydrate was determined from single crystal X-ray diffraction data and its absolute configuration was established from anomalous-dispersion effects. Furthermore, the anti-aging and wound-healing properties of these metabolites were evaluated in three different assays namely the inhibition of collagenase, inhibition of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) and wound healing assay (scratch assay).

Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids: Making the Foundation for Organic Personalised Sunscreens

The surface of the Earth is exposed to harmful ultraviolet radiation (UVR: 280-400 nm). Prolonged skin exposure to UVR results in DNA damage through oxidative stress due to the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are UV-absorbing compounds, found in many marine and freshwater organisms that have been of interest in use for skin protection. MAAs are involved in photoprotection from damaging UVR thanks to their ability to absorb light in both the UV-A (315-400 nm) and UV-B (280-315 nm) range without producing free radicals. In addition, by scavenging ROS, MAAs play an antioxidant role and suppress singlet oxygen-induced damage. Currently, there are over 30 different MAAs found in nature and they are characterised by different antioxidative and UV-absorbing capacities. Depending on the environmental conditions and UV level, up- or downregulation of genes from the MAA biosynthetic pathway results in seasonal fluctuation of the MAA content in aquatic species. This review will provide a summary of the MAA antioxidative and UV-absorbing features, including the genes involved in the MAA biosynthesis. Specifically, regulatory mechanisms involved in MAAs pathways will be evaluated for controlled MAA synthesis, advancing the potential use of MAAs in human skin protection.

Terrestrial Microorganisms: Cell Factories of Bioactive Molecules with Skin Protecting Applications

It is well known that terrestrial environments host an immense microbial biodiversity. Exposed to different types of stress, such as UV radiation, temperature fluctuations, water availability and the inter- / intra-specific competition for resources, terrestrial microorganisms have been evolved to produce a large spectrum of bioactive molecules. Bacteria, archaea, protists, fungi and algae have shown a high potential of producing biomolecules for pharmaceutical or other industrial purposes as they combine a sustainable, relatively low-cost and fast-production process. Herein, we provide an overview of the different bioactive molecules produced by terrestrial microorganisms with skin protecting applications. The high content in polyphenolic and carotenoid compounds produced by several strains, as well as the presence of exopolysaccharides, melanins, indole and pyrrole derivatives, mycosporines, carboxylic acids and other molecules, are discussed in the context of their antioxidant, photo-protective and skin-whitening activity. Relevant biotechnological tools developed for the enhanced production of high added value natural products, as well as the protecting effect of some antioxidant, hydrolytic and degrading enzymes are also discussed. Furthermore, we describe classes of microbial compounds that are used or have the potential to be used as antimicrobials, moisturizers, biosurfactants, pigments, flavorings and fragrances.

A Compendium of Mutational Signatures of Environmental Agents

Whole-genome-sequencing (WGS) of human tumors has revealed distinct mutation patterns that hint at the causative origins of cancer. We examined mutational signatures in 324 WGS human-induced pluripotent stem cells exposed to 79 known or suspected environmental carcinogens. Forty-one yielded characteristic substitution mutational signatures. Some were similar to signatures found in human tumors. Additionally, six agents produced double-substitution signatures and eight produced indel signatures. Investigating mutation asymmetries across genome topography revealed fully functional mismatch and transcription-coupled repair pathways. DNA damage induced by environmental mutagens can be resolved by disparate repair and/or replicative pathways, resulting in an assortment of signature outcomes even for a single agent. This compendium of experimentally induced mutational signatures permits further exploration of roles of environmental agents in cancer etiology and underscores how human stem cell DNA is directly vulnerable to environmental agents. VIDEO ABSTRACT.

Photo-protective compounds in red macroalgae from Brittany: Considerable diversity in mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)

To cope with the biotic and abiotic stresses experienced within their environment, marine macroalgae have developed certain defence mechanisms including the synthesis of photo-protective molecules against light and particularly harmful UV radiation. The aim of this study was to screen selected red algae, a highly diverse phylogenetic group, for the production of photo-protective molecules. The pigment content and composition (i.e. chlorophyll-a, phycobiliproteins and carotenoids) and the composition of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) were studied in 40 species of red macroalgae collected in Brittany (France), at two distinct periods (i.e. February and July 2017). A high inter-specific variability was demonstrated in terms of pigment content and MAA composition. Twenty-three potential MAAs were detected by HPLC, and six were identified by LC-MS (i.e. shinorine, palythine, asterina-330, porphyra-334, usurijene and palythene). This is the first study to report on the composition of pigments and MAAs in a diverse group of red seaweeds from Brittany, including some species for which the MAA composition has never been studied before. Nevertheless, the results suggested that some species of red algae are more likely to cope with high levels of light radiation since those species such as Bostrychia scorpioides, Porphyra dioica, Gracilaria vermiculophylla and Vertebrata lanosa are living in environments exposed to higher levels of irradiation, and had various MAAs in addition to their photo-protective pigments.

Antioxidative, Anti-Inflammatory, and Anti-Aging Properties of Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids: Molecular and Cellular Mechanisms in the Protection of Skin-Aging

Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes photoaging of the skin and induces a number of disorders, including sunburn, fine and coarse wrinkles, and skin cancer risk. Therefore, the application of sunscreen has gained much attention to reduce the harmful effects of UV irradiation on our skin. Recently, there has been a growing demand for the replacement of chemical sunscreens with natural UV-absorbing compounds. Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), promising alternative natural UV-absorbing compounds, are a group of widely distributed, low molecular-weight, water-soluble molecules that can absorb UV radiation and disperse the absorbed energy as heat, without generating reactive oxygen species (ROS). More than 30 MAAs have been characterized, from a variety of organisms. In addition to their UV-absorbing properties, there is substantial evidence that MAAs have the potential to protect against skin aging, including antioxidative activity, anti-inflammatory activity, inhibition of protein-glycation, and inhibition of collagenase activity. This review will provide an overview of MAAs, as potential anti-aging ingredients, beginning with their structure, before moving on to discuss the most recent experimental observations, including the molecular and cellular mechanisms through which MAAs might protect the skin. In particular, we focus on the potential anti-aging activity of mycosporine-2-glycine (M2G).

The mycosporine-like amino acids porphyra-334 and shinorine are antioxidants and direct antagonists of Keap1-Nrf2 binding

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are UVR-absorbing metabolites typically produced by cyanobacteria and marine algae, but their properties are not limited to direct sun screening protection. Herein, we examine the antioxidant activities of porphyra-334 and shinorine and demonstrate that these MAAs are prospective activators of the cytoprotective Keap1-Nrf2 pathway. The ability of porphyra-334 and shinorine to bind with Keap1 was determined using fluorescence polarization (FP) and thermal shift assays to detect Keap1 receptor antagonism. Concomitantly, the ability of porphyra-334 and shinorine to dissociate Nrf2 from Keap1 was confirmed also by measurement of increased mRNA expression of Nrf2 targeted genes encoding oxidative stress defense proteins in primary skin fibroblasts prior and post UVR exposure. Surprisingly, enhanced transcriptional regulation was only promoted by MAAs in cells after exposure to UVR-induced oxidative stress. Furthermore, the in-vitro antioxidant activities of porphyra-334 and shinorine determined by the DPPH free-radical quenching assay were low in comparison to ascorbic acid. However, their antioxidant capacity determined by the ORAC assay to quench free radicals via hydrogen atom transfer is substantial. Hence, the dual nature of MAAs to provide antioxidant protection may offer a prospective chemotherapeutic strategy to prevent or retard the progression of multiple degenerative disorders of ageing.

The UV/Visible Radiation Boundary Region (385-405 nm) Damages Skin Cells and Induces "dark" Cyclobutane Pyrimidine Dimers in Human Skin in vivo

The adverse effects of terrestrial solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) (~295–400 nm) on the skin are well documented, especially in the UVB region (~295–320 nm). The effects of very long-wave UVA (>380 nm) and visible radiation (≥400 nm) are much less known. Sunscreens have been beneficial in inhibiting a wide range of photodamage, however most formulations provide very little protection in the long wave UVA region (380–400 nm) and almost none from shortwave visible wavelengths (400–420 nm). We demonstrate photodamage in this region for a number of different endpoints including cell viability, DNA damage (delayed cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers), differential gene expression (for genes associated with inflammation, oxidative stress and photoageing) and induction of oxidizing species in vitro in HaCaT keratinocytes and in vivo in human volunteers. This work has implications for phototherapy and photoprotection.