Mechanisms of impairment in hair and scalp induced by hair dyeing and perming and potential interventions

With the rapid growth of beauty and personal care industries, many hair-relevant products, hair dyes and hair perms in particular, are increasingly prevalent in both women and men, regardless of being young or old as they frequently change hair color or shape to enhance youthfulness and beauty and to follow fashion trends. Hair dyes and perms alter hair color and/or shape by mechanically changing the physical structure and chemical substances of the hair shaft. However, treatment of hair with chemical formulations has been potentially ascribed to adverse outcomes in the hair shaft including structure damage, chemical constituent disorder, and impaired physical properties, although hair cosmetics procedures are intrinsically safe. Nevertheless, the mechanisms of impairment in the hair shaft and scalp induced by hair dyeing and perming remain elusive. Additionally, adverse reactions activated by exposure to specific chemical ingredients including skin irritation, allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), and even cancer risk have been reported clinically, but existing evidence is not consistent enough in the case of human studies. Herein, the review aims to give an overview of hair cosmetics, especially concerning the basic knowledge about various hair dyes and perms, the consequences for hair shafts and the scalp resulting from the application of hair cosmetics mentioned above, mechanisms of hazardous outcomes, and potential desirable interventions to alleviate the impairment.

Impact of mono-culture vs. Co-culture of keratinocytes and monocytes on cytokine responses induced by important skin sensitizers

Sensitization to a contact allergen brings with it a lifelong risk to develop allergic contact dermatitis. Inflammation is an important part of the skin sensitizing mechanism, and understanding how different haptens stimulate the immune system, as well as the role played by different cell types present in skin, may be helpful for developing optimized in vitro models for risk assessment of new chemicals or mixtures. The aim of this study was to compare the cytokine profile following exposure of cells representing keratinocytes (HaCaT), monocytes (THP-1) and a co-culture of these cells to three clinically important skin sensitizers: cobalt (II) chloride (CoCl₂), methylisothiazolinone (MI) and p-phenylenediamine (PPD). Secretion of ten pro-inflammatory cytokines was measured using multiplexing. The results showed that the cytokine response differed substantially between the three cell assays. CoCl₂ caused an increase of IL-8 in HaCaT cells, while the induction of also IL-13 and IL-1β was observed in THP-1 cells and co-cultures. MI induced six cytokines in HaCaT cells but only IL-1β in the THP-1 cells and four cytokines in the co-culture. Interestingly, the IL-1β response was massive in the co-culture. PPD caused release of IL-1β in all three models as well as IL-8 in the co-culture. Control experiments with two non-sensitizers and irritants (lactic acid and sodium dodecyl sulfate) showed no effect on IL-8 or IL-1β in the co-culture. Taken together, results from this exploratory analysis show unique cytokine profiles dependent on the type of hapten and cell model. Importantly, all three haptens triggered secretion of IL-1β and IL-8 in a co-culture of HaCaT cells and THP-1 cells, representing the most robust test system.