New insights in photoaging, UVA induced damage and skin types

Resveratrol activates autophagy and protects from UVA-induced photoaging in human skin fibroblasts and the skin of male mice by regulating the AMPK pathway

Skin photoaging is mostly caused by ultraviolet A (UVA), although active medications to effectively counteract UVA-induced photoaging have not yet been created. Resveratrol, a naturally occurring polyphenol found in the skin of grapes, has been shown to have various biological functions such as anti-inflammatory and antioxidant characteristics. However, the role of resveratrol in UVA-induced photoaging has not been clarified. We investigated the mechanism of action of resveratrol by UVA irradiation of human skin fibroblasts (HSF) and innovatively modified a mouse model of photoaging. The results demonstrated that resveratrol promoted AMP-activated protein kinase (AMPK) phosphorylation to activate autophagy, reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, inhibit apoptosis, and restore normal cell cycle to alleviate UVA-induced photoaging. In addition, subcutaneous injection of resveratrol not only improved the symptoms of roughness, erythema, and increased wrinkles in the skin of UVA photodamaged mice, but also alleviated epidermal hyperkeratosis and hyperpigmentation, reduced inflammatory responses, and inhibited collagen fiber degradation. In conclusion, our studies proved that resveratrol can treat UVA-induced photoaging and elucidated the possible molecular mechanisms involved, providing a new therapeutic strategy for future anti-aging.

Effects of rice fermentation and its bioactive components on UVA-induced oxidative stress and senescence in dermal fibroblasts

Photoaging, caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation, is characterized by the senescence of skin cells and reduction of collagens. Although rice fermentation is widely used in the cosmetics, its impact on skin photoaging is still not well understood. Herein, we investigated the possible effectiveness of Maifuyin, a fermented rice product, and its components, succinic acid (SA), and choline, for safeguarding UVA-exposed human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) against photoaging. In this study, the effects of Maifuyin, SA, and choline on UVA-induced cell death and senescence in fibroblasts were evaluated in cell counting kit-8 (CCK-8), expression of β-galactosidase (β-GAL), and matrix metalloproteinases (MMP)-1. To identify oxidative stress, the investigation focused on reactive oxygen species, glutathione, superoxide dismutase, and malondialdehyde. Additionally, a mRNA sequencing technology (RNA-seq) was applied to study the underlying mechanisms of these components on UVA-induced photoaging. Meanwhile, the level of C-X-C motif chemokine ligand 2 (CXCL2) in the cell supernatant was confirmed to assess the autocrine chemokine level. To reassess the involvement of CXCL2, the expression of β-GAL was evaluated in fibroblasts treated with or without CXCL2. The results indicated that 1 mg/mL Maifuyin and SA inhibited UVA-induced senescence in fibroblasts, MMP-1 expression, and oxidative damage. The RNA-seq revealed 1 mg/mL Maifuyin and SA might be recruited chemokine CXCLs to inhibit MMPs production and fibroblast senescence via TNFα, MAPK, and NF-κB pathways. ELISA results showed a significant reduction of autocrine CXCL2 in UVA-irradiated HDFs by pretreating Maifuyin and SA. The β-GAL staining assay revealed that CXCL2 treatment increased β-GAL activity, while the administration of Maifuyin and SA counteracted this effect in HDFs. These results highlighted the potential use of Maifuyin and SA as promising candidates for anti-photoaging applications.

Influence of ultraviolet A1 exposures on mood states: a randomized controlled study

We investigated the effects of daily ultraviolet A1 (UV-A1, 340-400 nm) exposures on mood states (#R19055, approval on 21 October 2020). Based on our earlier findings of the influence of diurnal preference on mood, we investigated further whether diurnal preference plays a role in the influence of UV-A1 on mood states. Forty-one healthy participants aged 19-55 years were randomized to receive either UV-A1 (n = 21) or control (n = 20) exposures (violet light, 390-440 nm). The irradiations were administered on three consecutive mornings on the skin of the buttocks and middle back. Diurnal preference was assessed with the modified 6-item Morningness-Eveningness Questionnaire (mMEQ). Changes in mood were assessed with Total Mood Disturbance (TMD) score of the 40-item Profile of Mood States (POMS) before the first irradiation, immediately after each irradiation and one week after the last irradiation. Mood improved among those subjected to UV-A1 exposures compared with the controls (p = 0.031). Individuals with more pronounced morningness had mood improvement (p = 0.011), whereas those with more pronounced eveningness did not (p = 0.41). At follow-up of one week after the last irradiation the mood improvement had disappeared.

Skin Rejuvenation Efficacy and Safety Evaluation of Kaempferia parviflora Standardized Extract (BG100) in Human 3D Skin Models and Clinical Trial

Polymethoxyflavones from Kaempferia parviflora rhizomes have been shown to effectively combat aging in skin cells and tissues by inhibiting senescence, reducing oxidative stress, and enhancing skin structure and function. This study assessed the anti-aging effects and safety of standardized K. parviflora extract (BG100), enriched with polymethoxyflavones including 5,7-dimethoxyflavone, 5,7,4'-trimethoxyflavone, 3,5,7,3',4'-pentamethoxyflavone, 3,5,7-trimethoxyflavone, and 3,5,7,4'-tetramethoxyflavone. We evaluated BG100's impact on skin rejuvenation and antioxidant properties using photoaged human 3D full-thickness skin models. The potential for skin irritation and sensitization was also assessed through studies on reconstructed human epidermis and clinical trials. Additionally, in vitro genotoxicity testing was performed following OECD guidelines. Results indicate that BG100 promotes collagen and hyaluronic acid production, reduces oxidative stress, and minimizes DNA damage in photoaged full-thickness 3D skin models. Furthermore, it exhibited non-irritating and non-sensitizing properties, as supported by tests on reconstructed human epidermis and clinical settings. BG100 also passed in vitro genotoxicity tests, adhering to OECD guidelines. These results underscore BG100's potential as a highly effective and safe, natural anti-aging agent, suitable for inclusion in cosmeceutical and nutraceutical products aimed at promoting skin rejuvenation.

Topical diosmetin attenuates nociception and inflammation in a ultraviolet B radiation-induced sunburn model in mice

Burns are a global health problem and can be caused by several factors, including ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Exposure to UVB radiation can cause sunburn and a consequent inflammatory response characterised by pain, oedema, inflammatory cell infiltration, and erythema. Pharmacological treatments available to treat burns and the pain caused by them include nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), opioids, antimicrobials and glucocorticoids, which are associated with adverse effects. Therefore, the search for new therapeutic alternatives is needed. Diosmetin, an aglycone of the flavonoid diosmin, has antinociceptive, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Thus, we evaluated the antinociceptive and anti-inflammatory effects of topical diosmetin (0.01, 0.1 and 1%) in a UVB radiation-induced sunburn model in mice. The right hind paw of the anaesthetised mice was exposed only once to UVB radiation (0.75 J/cm2) and immediately treated with diosmetin once a day for 5 days. The diosmetin antinociceptive effect was evaluated by mechanical allodynia and pain affective-motivational behaviour, while its anti-inflammatory activity was assessed by measuring paw oedema and polymorphonuclear cell infiltration. Mice exposed to UVB radiation presented mechanical allodynia, increased pain affective-motivational behaviour, paw oedema and polymorphonuclear cell infiltration into the paw tissue. Topical Pemulen® TR2 1% diosmetin reduced the mechanical allodynia, the pain affective-motivational behaviour, the paw oedema and the number of polymorphonuclear cells in the mice's paw tissue similar to that presented by Pemulen® TR2 0.1% dexamethasone. These findings indicate that diosmetin has therapeutic potential and may be a promising strategy for treating patients experiencing inflammatory pain, especially those associated with sunburn.

The polyphenolic compound punicalagin protects skin fibroblasts from UVA radiation oxidative damage

Polyphenols are a class of natural compounds that act as antioxidants, neutralising harmful free radicals that would damage cells and increase the risk of diseases such as cancer, diabetes and heart disease. They also reduce inflammation, which is thought to be at the root of many chronic diseases. We are investigating the photoprotective effects of punicalagin, a type of polyphenolic compound mainly found in pomegranates, against UVA-induced damage in human skin fibroblasts. Punicalagin increases cell viability and reduces the high levels of ROS generated by photooxidative stress through its ability to modulate the Nrf2 transcriptional pathway. Interestingly, activation of the Nrf2 pathway results in an increase in reduced glutathione, NADH, and subsequently protects mitochondrial respiratory capacity. Integrating molecular and imaging approaches, our results demonstrate a potential cytoprotective effect of punicalagin against UVA-induced skin damage through an anti-apoptotic mechanism.

Comparison of five retinoids for anti-photoaging therapy: Evaluation of anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative activities in vitro and therapeutic efficacy in vivo

Over the past decades, increasing evidences have demonstrated that five retinoids, including retinol (ROL), retinol acetate (RAc), retinol propionate (RP), retinol palmitate (RPalm), and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), can be potential therapeutic agents for skin photoaging. However, therapeutic efficacies and biosafety have never been compared to these compounds. This study aimed to determine the optimal retinoid type(s) for anti-photoaging therapy both in vitro and in vivo. Our data demonstrated that four retinoids (RPalm, RP, HPR and ROL) but not RAc were effective for anti-photoaging treatment at 5 μg/mL in vitro, with action mechanisms associated with antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and anti-skin ECM degradation activities. Notably, both RPalm and RP appeared superior to HPR and ROL for those activities. Importantly, both RPalm and RP were shown to be optimal for anti-photoaging therapy when topically applied at 5 mg/kg in a UVB-induced mice model of photoaging, which is consistent with their high anti-photoaging activities in vitro. Additionally, topical application of these five retinoids showed satisfactory biosafety without causing significant apoptosis in animal organs, although RP application led to a slight decline in animal body weights. Collectively, these data have laid a good foundation for the next development of the clinical application of these retinoids for skin healthcare.

Effect of education on sun-safe behaviour in kidney transplant recipients

BACKGROUND

Organ transplant recipients (OTR) are more likely to develop skin cancer than the general population. One of the main components of the exposome that triggers the development of skin tumours is solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation. To reduce the incidence of harmful consequences of sun exposure, sun protection education is needed for patients taking long-term immunosuppressive drugs.

METHODS

In a previous study, we assessed the sun-safe behaviour of 221 OTR using a questionnaire before and after transplantation and personally educated the patients about proper sun protection. After the education, there were no further reminder presentations. Presently, the sun protection and sun seeking habits of the available 176 of these patients were questioned to assess the long-term effect of the previous sun protection education.

RESULTS

Two-four years after the education, more patients wore hats and protected their skin with long-sleeved clothing than before the education. In terms of sun seeking habits, both occupational and recreational sun exposure decreased significantly. Significantly fewer people went on holiday after transplantation, but those who went on holiday spent significantly less time in the sun.

CONCLUSION

The long-term positive effects of education can be seen both in the patients' sun protection and in their sun seeking habits. However, the long-term goal is to maintain these results and thereby reduce the likelihood of skin tumours and consequently the associated tumour death.

Phototoxicity in vitro and safety in vivo of the emulsion photosensitizer based on furanocoumarins of Heracleum sosnowskyi

The use of plants such as giant hogweed as raw materials for the manufacture of dosage forms has been little explored. In this study, we utilized furanocoumarins from the Heracleum sosnowskyi plant to create an experimental emulsion dosage form (EmFHS). The EmFHS was finely dispersed (481.8 nm ± 71.1 nm), shelf-stable, and contained predominantly 8-methoxypsoralen at a concentration of 1 mg/ml. Phototoxicity analysis of EmFHS for THP-1 cells under UV (365 nm) irradiation showed an IC50 of 19.1 µg/ml (24 h) and 6.3 µg/ml (48 h). In relation to spheroids (L929), EmFHS exhibited a phototoxic effect in the concentration range of 31.25-125 µg/ml8-MOP. A full phototoxic effect was observed 48 h after UV irradiation. The phototoxic effect of EmFHS in vitro was dose-dependent and comparable to the effect of emulsion synthetic 8-methoxypsoralen and chlorin e6 solution. EmFHS cytotoxicity was caused solely by UV radiation, and toxicity in the dark was minimal. EmFHS, administered at a dose of 3 mg/kg8-MOP, was found to be safe after a single intravenous administration to rats. It had a photosensitizing effect in the form of local photodermatitis when exposed to UV irradiation at a dose of 44 J/cm2. The biokinetics of emulsion furanocoumarins showed that the phototoxic effect of EmFHS is due to the high penetration ability of the emulsion into cells of spheroids. At the same time, it has a low degree of cumulation when administered intravenously. The obtained data suggest that EmFHS may be a promising treatment for PUVA therapy of various dermatological diseases. Additionally, the plant Heracleum sosnowskyi shows potential as a basis for creating new dosage forms with phototherapeutic effects.

A highly bioactive THPC-crosslinked recombinant collagen hydrogel implant for aging skin rejuvenation

Skin aging, a complex physiological progression marked by collagen degradation, poses substantial challenges in dermatology. Recombinant collagen emerges as a potential option for skin revitalization, yet its application is constrained by difficulties in forming hydrogels. We have for the first time developed a highly bioactive Tetrakis(hydroxymethyl) phosphonium chloride (THPC)-crosslinked recombinant collagen hydrogel implant for aging skin rejuvenation. THPC demonstrated superior crosslinking efficiency compared to traditional agents such as EDC/NHS and BDDE, achieving complete recombinant collagen crosslinking at minimal concentrations and effectively inducing hydrogel formation. THPC's four reactive hydroxymethyl groups facilitate robust crosslinking with triple helical recombinant collagen, producing hydrogels with enhanced mechanical strength, excellent injectability, increased stability, and greater durability. Moreover, the hydrogel exhibited remarkable biocompatibility and bioactivity, significantly promoting the proliferation, adhesion, and migration of human foreskin fibroblast-1. In photoaged mice skin models, the THPC-crosslinked collagen hydrogel implant notably improved dermal density, skin elasticity, and reduced transepidermal water loss, creating a conducive environment for fibroblast activity and healthy collagen regeneration. Additionally, it elevated superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity and displayed substantial anti-calcification properties. The THPC-crosslinked recombinant collagen hydrogel implant presents an innovative methodology in combating skin aging, offering significant promise in dermatology and tissue engineering.

New trends on personalized sunscreens

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE

Nowadays, there are emerging trends in customized and personalized photoprotection, focusing on the innovative approaches to enhance sun protection efficacy tailored to individual needs.

METHODS

We conducted an electronic search of the following databases: MEDLINE, EMBASE, Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews, Cochrane Skin Group Specialised Skin Register, and TESEO. Specific search terms related to personalized photoprotection and the variables of age, genetic predisposition, skin phototype, photodermatosis, and physiological conditions such as pregnancy, as well as lifestyle habits were used.

RESULTS/CONCLUSION

The article highlights the challenges and opportunities in adopting personalized photoprotection strategies, aiming to promote skin health and prevent the harmful effects of UV radiation in the era of precision medicine.

Skin-derived precursor conditioned medium alleviated photoaging via early activation of TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway by thrombospondin1: In vitro and in vivo studies

Photoaging is one major exogenous factor of skin aging. Efficacy and safety of current anti-photoaging therapies remained to be improved. Our previous studies indicated that skin-derived precursors (SKPs) alleviated photodamage by early activation of TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway via thrombospondin1 (TSP1). However, the research concerning SKP conditioned medium (SKP-CM) has never been reported. In the current study, we aimed to explore the anti-photoaging effects of SKP-CM both in vitro and in vivo, and to elucidate the possible mechanisms. Mouse SKP-CM (mSKP-CM) collection was optimized by a comparative method. The concentration of protein and growth factors in mSKP-CM was detected using BCA protein assay kit and growth factor protein chip. The anti-photoaging effects of mSKP-CM and its regulation of key factors in the TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway were explored using UVA + UVB photoaged mouse fibroblasts (mFBs) and nude mice dorsal skin. The research revealed that mSKP-CM contained significantly higher-concentration of protein and growth factors than mouse mesenchymal stem cell conditioned medium (mDMSC-CM). mSKP-CM alleviated mFBs photoaging by restoring cell viability and relieving senescence and death. ELISA, qRT-PCR, and western blot results implied the potential mechanisms were associated with the early activation of TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway by TSP1. In vivo experiments demonstrated that compared with the topical intradermal mDMSC-CM injection and retinoic acid cream application, the photodamaged mice dorsal skin intradermally injected with mSKP-CM showed significantly better improvement. Consistent with the in vitro results, both western blot and immunohistochemistry results confirmed that protein expression of TSP1, smad2/3, p-smad2/3, TGF-β1, and collagen I increased, and matrix metalloproteinases decreased. In summary, both in vitro and in vivo experiments demonstrated that mSKP-CM alleviated photoaging through an early activation of TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway via TSP1. SKP-CM may serve as a novel and promising cell-free therapeutical approach for anti-photoaging treatment and regenerative medicine.

Integrated sun protection advice for the South African population

Exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is associated with several cutaneous adverse effects. However, to the best of our knowledge, in South Africa there are no formal guidelines on sun protection. A group of South African dermatologists and researchers convened over the course of 1 year to deliberate on integrated advice for sun protection among the multi-ethnic South African population. For people with light skin and those with genetic skin disorders (e.g., oculocutaneous albinism), sun protection was identified as critical to prevent sunburn, skin cancer, and photoaging. The evidence is less clear for people with medium and darker skin types, especially the latter, in whom melanin may confer a degree of protection against some parts of the solar spectrum. Recent studies have demonstrated that visible light can cause pigmentary changes in individuals with darker skin types in particular. Sun protection for people of all skin colors is beneficial to protect against photoaging and ocular damage. Herein sun protection advice is suggested for South Africans of all skin colors to reduce morbidity and mortality from sun exposure, particularly relating to skin cancer. Several knowledge gaps are identified as future research priorities.

Ring buckling and C=N isomerization pathways for efficient photoprotection in two nature-inspired UVA sunscreens revealed through ultrafast dynamics and high-level calculations

Sunscreens provide a frontline defense for our DNA against the damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The active ingredients in topically applied sunscreens that provide this defense are UV filters, which preferentially absorb or reflect UV radiation before it penetrates the skin and interacts with photosensitive nucleic acids. However, there are concerns related to human and environmental toxicity of current UV filters, and consequently a shift toward nature-inspired, particularly microbial, UV filters. In this paper, new physical insight is provided into the fundamental mechanisms of photoprotection in two synthetic analogs of mycosporine-like amino acid-type UV filters, demonstrating new methods of protection that are distinct from those of current commercial sunscreens, extending previous work in this area. Transient absorption measurements (both transient electronic absorption spectroscopy and transient vibrational absorption spectroscopy) are combined with steady-state studies and high-level computational results to aid our mapping of the experimentally derived lifetimes to real-time photodynamic processes. The conclusions reached here pave the way toward developing new and more efficient biomimetic DNA photoprotectant materials.

Role of autophagy in skin photoaging: A narrative review

As the largest organ of the human body, the skin serves as the primary barrier against external damage. The continuous increase in human activities and environmental pollution has resulted in the ongoing depletion of the ozone layer. Excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation enhances the impact of external factors on the skin, leading to photoaging. Photoaging causes physical and psychological damage to the human body. The prevention and management of photoaging have attracted increased attention in recent years. Despite significant progress in understanding and mitigating UV-induced photoaging, the precise mechanisms through which autophagy contributes to the prevention of photoaging remain unclear. Given the important role of autophagy in repairing UV-induced DNA damage and scavenging oxidized lipids, autophagy is considered a novel strategy for preventing the occurrence of photoaging and other UV light-induced skin diseases. This review aims to elucidate the biochemical and clinical features of photoaging, the relationship of skin photoaging and chronological aging, the mechanisms underlying skin photoaging and autophagy, and the role of autophagy in skin photoaging.

Integrative analysis of RNA-sequencing and microarray for the identification of adverse effects of UVB exposure on human skin

Background

Ultraviolet B (UVB) from sunlight represents a major environmental factor that causes toxic effects resulting in structural and functional cutaneous abnormalities in most living organisms. Although numerous studies have indicated the biological mechanisms linking UVB exposure and cutaneous manifestations, they have typically originated from a single study performed under limited conditions.

Methods

We accessed all publicly accessible expression data of various skin cell types exposed to UVB, including skin biopsies, keratinocytes, and fibroblasts. We performed biological network analysis to identify the molecular mechanisms and identify genetic biomarkers.

Results

We interpreted the inflammatory response and carcinogenesis as major UVB-induced signaling alternations and identified three candidate biomarkers (IL1B, CCL2, and LIF). Moreover, we confirmed that these three biomarkers contribute to the survival probability of patients with cutaneous melanoma, the most aggressive and lethal form of skin cancer.

Conclusion

Our findings will aid the understanding of UVB-induced cutaneous toxicity and the accompanying molecular mechanisms. In addition, the three candidate biomarkers that change molecular signals due to UVB exposure of skin might be related to the survival rate of patients with cutaneous melanoma.

Dithiothreitol reduces oxidative stress and necrosis caused by ultraviolet A radiation in L929 fibroblasts

Ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation, present in sunlight, can induce cell redox imbalance leading to cellular damage and even cell death, compromising skin health. Here, we evaluated the in vitro antioxidant and photochemoprotective effect of dithiothreitol (DTT). DTT neutralized the free radicals 2,2-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS·+), 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH·), and superoxide anion (O2·-) in in vitro assays, as well as the ferric ion (Fe3+) in the ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) assay. We also evaluated the effect of DTT pre-treatment in L929 dermal fibroblasts and DTT (50 and 100 µM) led to greater cell viability following UVA-irradiation compared to cells that were untreated. Furthermore, the pre-treatment of cells with DTT prevented the increase of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, including hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), lipid peroxidation, and DNA condensation, as well as the decrease in mitochondrial membrane potential (Δψm), that occurred following irradiation in untreated cells. The endogenous antioxidant system of cells was also improved in irradiated cells that were DTT pre-treated compared to the untreated cells, as the activity of the superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT) enzymes remained as high as non-irradiated cells, while the activity levels were depleted in the untreated irradiated cells. Furthermore, DTT reduced necrosis in UVA-irradiated fibroblasts. Together, these results showed that DTT may have promising use in the prevention of skin photoaging and photodamage induced by UVA, as it provided photochemoprotection against the harmful effects of this radiation, reducing oxidative stress and cell death, due mainly to its antioxidant capacity.

Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and photoprotective activity of standardised Gaultheria procumbens L. leaf, stem, and fruit extracts in UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Gaultheria procumbens L. is a polyphenolic-rich medicinal and food plant. Its leaves, stems, and fruits are traditional anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, antioxidant, and antimicrobial herbal medicines used to treat internal and external inflammation-related ailments, including rheumatic diseases, influenza, the common cold, fever, and skin and periodontal problems. Moreover, G. procumbens leaf extract is used for skin care as an anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle ingredient.

AIM OF THE STUDY

Various environmental factors, especially solar ultraviolet radiation, accelerate skin ageing by promoting oxidative stress and inflammation. Despite the dermoprotective and anti-ageing applications, the impact of G. procumbens on human dermal fibroblasts is unknown. Therefore, the study aimed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and photoprotective activity of G. procumbens standardised leaf, stem, and fruit extracts in cellular models, including human dermal fibroblasts (Hs68 cells) under UVA-irradiation, the primary pro-ageing skin stressor.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Hs68 fibroblasts were pre-treated (24h) with G. procumbens extracts (0.5-100 μg/mL) or reference compounds followed by UVA-irradiation (8 J/cm2). Cell viability and metabolic activity were measured by CCK-8 and MTT assays in human Hs68 and mouse L929 fibroblasts, respectively. The ROS level, SOD, and GST activities were estimated by fluorescence and spectrophotometric techniques. The pro-inflammatory potential (NF-κB transcription factor activation) was checked using THP1-Blue™ NF-κB cells, and the anti-inflammatory activity was studied by measuring IL-8, ICAM-1, and NF-κB levels and phosphorylation of Erk kinase in LPS-stimulated Hs68 cells by spectrophotometry and confocal microscopy. The UVA-induced DNA damage and cell migration were evaluated by comet and scratch assays, respectively.

RESULTS

The extracts did not affect the metabolic activity of mouse L929 fibroblasts and the viability of unirradiated human Hs68 cells. Additionally, the extracts noticeably enhanced the viability of UVA-irradiated Hs68 cells up to 115-120% (p < 0.001) for stem and leaf extract at 25 μg/mL. All extracts in a wide concentration range (0.5-100 μg/mL) did not activate monocytes or induce the NF-κB transcription factor in LPS-stimulated Hs68 fibroblasts. On the other hand, the extracts (5-25 μg/mL) restored the activity of endogenous antioxidant enzymes, i.e., SOD and GST, up to 120-140% (p < 0.001) in the UVA-irradiated Hs68 cells. Moreover, a statistically significant reduction of ROS, IL-8, ICAM-1, and NF-κB levels by up to 48%, 88%, 43%, and 39%, respectively (p < 0.001) and strong suppression of Erk kinase activation was observed for the extracts (25-50 μg/mL) in LPS-stimulated human fibroblasts. The total DNA damage (% tail DNA) in irradiated Hs68 cells was also strongly decreased by up to 66-69% (p < 0.001) at 50 μg/mL. However, the treatment with the extracts did not relevantly enhance the cell migration of Hs68 fibroblasts.

CONCLUSIONS

The results suggest that G. procumbens may effectively protect human skin fibroblast from UVA irradiation. The leaf and stem extracts were the most potent antioxidants, while fruit and stem extracts revealed the strongest anti-inflammatory activity. The observed effects support the traditional use of aerial plant parts (leaves, stems, and fruits) in treating inflammation-related skin disorders cross-linked with oxidative stress and the topical application of Gaultheria extracts as anti-ageing agents intended for skin care.

Theoretical studies on the photo protective mechanism of curcuminoids

In this work, the deactivation pathways of curcuminoids after photoexcitation was studied by employing density functional theory to explore their UVA radiation screening capacity. A comprehensive computational characterization of the excited-state processes of curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, and bis-demethoxycurcumin was done. The molecules exist in diketo and enol forms which are in equilibrium and interconvertible through keto-enol tautomerism. The enolic forms of each of the studied molecules have eight geometric cis-trans isomers as a result of torsion rotation about three different carbon-carbon double bonds across the aliphatic chain. For each geometric isomer, sixteen possible rotamers are found to exist due to rotation about five different carbon-carbon single bond rotations, also across the skeleton of the aliphatic chain. Upon photoexcitation, the studied molecules follow three main pathways of radiationless decay: (a) rotamerism and interconversion between rotamers of comparable energies which are in equilibrium, (b) interconversion between the cis-trans geometrical isomers where an efficient vibrational relaxation path is formed at ∼90° during torsion rotation about carbon-carbon double bond, and (c) excited state intramolecular proton transfer in a single O-H stretching vibration through a cyclic intramolecular hydrogen bonded ring formed at the centre of the molecule giving back the original structure. The absorption and emission spectra of the molecules were also simulated where the theoretically obtained absorption and emission maxima are close to the reported experimental values.

Amaranthus cruentus L. Seed Oil Counteracts UVA-Radiation-Induced Inhibition of Collagen Biosynthesis and Wound Healing in Human Skin Fibroblasts

The effect of Amaranthus cruentus L. seed oil (AmO) on collagen biosynthesis and wound healing was studied in cultured human dermal fibroblasts exposed to UVA radiation. It was found that UVA radiation inhibited collagen biosynthesis, prolidase activity, and expression of the β1-integrin receptor, and phosphorylated ERK1/2 and TGF-β, while increasing the expression of p38 kinase. The AmO at 0.05-0.15% counteracted the above effects induced by UVA radiation in fibroblasts. UVA radiation also induced the expression and nuclear translocation of the pro-inflammatory NF-κB factor and enhanced the COX-2 expression. AmO effectively suppressed the expression of these pro-inflammatory factors induced by UVA radiation. Expressions of β1 integrin and IGF-I receptors were decreased in the fibroblasts exposed to UVA radiation, while AmO counteracted the effects. Furthermore, AmO stimulated the fibroblast's migration in a wound healing model, thus facilitating the repair process following exposure of fibroblasts to UVA radiation. These data suggest the potential of AmO to counteract UVA-induced skin damage.

Awareness of sun exposure risks and photoprotection for preventing pigmentary disorders in Asian populations: Survey results from three Asian countries and expert panel recommendations

BACKGROUND

In this article, we review and discuss the photoprotection behavior of Asians based on the literature, along with a subanalysis of an original online survey, and make recommendations to optimize photoprotection for Asian populations to prevent photoaging and pigmentary disorders.

METHODS

An international panel of eight dermatologists from Asia (China, Korea, Japan, Singapore, Indonesia, and Vietnam) met to discuss sunscreen photoprotection for Asian patients. Additionally, a subanalysis of an online survey by 3000 respondents from three Asian countries (China, Indonesia, and Japan) investigated general public awareness and attitudes to sun exposure.

RESULTS

A pre-meeting survey of the eight experts from Asia showed key concerns of Asian patients consulting dermatologists are pigmentary disorders, especially actinic/senile lentigo, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, vitiligo, and Hori's nevus. The survey subanalysis of participants from China, Indonesia, and Japan with predominantly Fitzpatrick skin types (FST) II to IV revealed that they are particularly concerned about sun exposure causing photoaging and pigmentary disorders. Most of the respondents indicated they have limited knowledge on sunlight radiation and appropriate sunscreen protection factors. Only 22%, 13%, and 3% for China, Indonesia, and Japan, respectively, systematically use multiple protective measures (using sunscreen, avoiding midday sun, staying in the shade, wearing a hat, protective clothing, and sunglasses) when exposed to the sun.

CONCLUSIONS

Further education is needed for Asian populations on the importance of comprehensive daily photoprotection, including broad-spectrum sunscreen, with high UVA and visible light protection, to reduce and prevent photoaging and pigmentary disorders.

Sesamin attenuates UVA-induced keratinocyte injury via inhibiting ASK-1-JNK/p38 MAPK pathways

BACKGROUND

Ultraviolet (UV) exposure-stimulated reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation in keratinocytes is a crucial factor in skin aging. Phytochemicals have become widely popular for protecting the skin from UV-induced cell injury. Sesamin (SSM) has been shown to play a role in extensive pharmacological activity and exhibit photoprotective effects.

AIM

To assess the protective effect of SSM on UVA-irradiated keratinocytes and determine its potential antiphotoaging effect.

METHODS

HaCaT keratinocytes pretreated with SSM were exposed to UVA radiation at 8 J/cm2 for 10 min. Cell viability and oxidative stress indicators were evaluated using a cell counting kit-8 and lactate dehydrogenase (LDH), malondialdehyde (MDA), glutathione (GSH), and superoxide dismutase (SOD) assay kits. Apoptosis and intracellular ROS levels were analyzed using annexin V-fluorescein isothiocyanate/propyridine iodide and dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate staining, respectively. Protein levels of matrix metalloprotein-1 (MMP-1), MMP-9, Bax/Bcl-2, and mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway proteins, phospho-apoptosis signal-regulating kinase-1 (p-ASK-1)/ASK-1, phospho-c-Jun N-terminal protein kinase (p-JNK)/JNK, and p-p38/p38 were determined using western blotting.

RESULTS

Sesamin showed no cytotoxicity until 160 μmol/L on human keratinocytes. Sesamin pretreatment (20 and 40 μM) reversed the suppressed cell viability, increased LDH release and MDA content, decreased cellular antioxidants GSH and SOD, and elevated intracellular ROS levels, which were induced by UVA irradiation. Additionally, SSM inhibited the expression of Bax, MMP-1, and MMP-9 and stimulated Bcl-2 expression. In terms of the regulatory mechanisms, we demonstrated that SSM inhibits the phosphorylation of ASK-1, JNK, and p38.

CONCLUSION

The results suggest that SSM attenuates UVA-induced keratinocyte injury by inhibiting the ASK-1-JNK/p38 MAPK pathways.

Sun exposure behaviours as a compromise to paradoxical injunctions: Insight from a worldwide survey

BACKGROUND

Behavioural interventions can improve attitudes towards sun protection but the impact remains inconsistent worldwide.

OBJECTIVE

To assess awareness of and attitudes towards the multiple facets of sun exposure and suggest ways to improve prevention from overexposure to the sun in all geographical zones and multiple skin types.

METHODS

Online survey was conducted from 28 September to 18 October 2021. Study population was selected from the Ipsos online Panel (3,540,000 panellists), aged ≥18 years, from 17 countries around the five continents. Demographics, sun-exposure habits and practices, understanding of risks and information on phototypes were documented and analysed using descriptive statistics.

RESULTS

Eighty-eight per cent of participants knew that sunlight can cause skin health problems (90% phototypes I-II, 82% phototypes V-VI, >90% in American and European countries, 72% in Asia and 85% in Africa). Eighty-five per cent used some form of protection against sunlight, predominantly: Seeking shade (77%), avoiding the midday sun (66%), facial application of sunscreen (60%) and wearing protective clothing (44%). The perception of sunlight itself is positive ('it gives energy' for 82%; 'tanned skin looks attractive' for 72%), although less in Asian countries and among individuals with dark skin phototypes. Eighty-three per cent reported having experienced sunburn, mainly in Australia, Canada, USA, Germany, France and Russia, and among individuals with dark skin phototypes. Only 12% systematically/often used all types of protection during exposure to the sun and 23% believed it is safe to go out in the sun with no protection when their skin is already tanned. From 13% (skin phototype I) to 26% (phototype VI) reported not using any form of protection against the sun. Knowledge and habits were significantly superior among people who are accustomed to seeing a dermatologist for a complete skin exam.

CONCLUSIONS

Dermatologists could play a crucial role in relaying novel prevention messages, more finely tailored to specific risks, populations and areas of the world.

Cell Viability Assessment of PEDOT Conducting Polymer-Coated Microneedles for Skin Sampling

Recently, transdermal monitoring and drug delivery have gained much interest, owing to the introduction of the minimally invasive microneedle (MN) device. The advancement of electroactive MNs electrically assisted in the capture of biomarkers or the triggering of drug release. Recent works have combined conducting polymers (CPs) onto MNs owing to the soft nature of the polymers and their tunable ionic and electronic conductivity. Though CPs are reported to work safely in the body, their biocompatibility in the skin has been insufficiently investigated. Furthermore, during electrical biasing of CPs, they undergo reduction or oxidation, which in practical terms leads to release/exchange of ions, which could pose biological risks. This work investigates the viability and proliferation of skin cells upon exposure to an electrochemically biased MN pair comprising two differently doped poly(3,4-ethylenedioxy-thiophene) (PEDOT) polymers that have been designed for skin sampling use. The impact of biasing on human keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts was determined at different initial cell seeding densities and incubation periods. Indirect testing was employed, whereby the culture media was first exposed to PEDOTs prior to the addition of this extract to cells. In all conditions, both unbiased and biased PEDOT extracts showed no cytotoxicity, but the viability and proliferation of cells cultured at a low cell seeding density were lower than those of the control after 48 h of incubation.

Advances in the Applications of Extracellular Vesicle for the Treatment of Skin Photoaging: A Comprehensive Review

Skin photoaging is a complex biological process characterized by the accumulation of oxidative damage and structural changes in the skin, resulting from chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Despite the growing demand for effective treatments, current therapeutic options for skin photoaging remain limited. However, emerging research has highlighted the potential of extracellular vesicles (EVs), including exosomes, micro-vesicles, apoptotic bodies and liposomes, as promising therapeutic agents in skin rejuvenation. EVs are involved in intercellular communication and can deliver bioactive molecules, including proteins, nucleic acids, and lipids, to recipient cells, thereby influencing various cellular processes. This comprehensive review aims to summarize the current research progress in the application of EVs for the treatment of skin photoaging, including their isolation and characterization methods, roles in skin homeostasis, therapeutic potential and clinical applications for skin photoaging. Additionally, challenges and future directions in EVs-based therapies for skin rejuvenation are discussed.

Photoaging's portrait: The road map towards its photoprotection

OBJECTIVE

To summarize key research published by the author's group, dealing with skin photoaging and its photoprotection.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Two methodologies (standard photographs and selfies imaging) resulting from referential skin ageing atlases were applied on 2487 subjects of different ancestries, ages and gender. These aimed at first to best assess and grade the variable severities of some facial signs (texture/wrinkles, pigmentary spots, sagging and vascular disorders) that occur progressively during the photoaging process. Second, such methodologies were used to record the benefits brought by a photoprotective regimen (671 women and men).

RESULTS

In all studied ancestries, each facial sign show an increase severity along decades, at its own pace, some showing a linear like progression, whereas some plateau at early ages. These changes differed according to skin innate colour (phototype) and with individual behaviours vis-à-vis sun exposures, more so among European women than North-East Asian women. An effect of gender (less severe alterations) was observed on Chinese men, as compared to Chinese women. Pigmentary disorders were found hallmarks of photo-aged North-East Asian women. Globally, photoaging impact the apparent age of the different subjects. The counteracting effects of strong topical Photoprotective regimens were evidenced along a 6-month seasonality in Chinese and French women or 1-year period in Brazilian women with phototypes II to VI. Photoprotection led to a more even skin complexion among Indian subjects with pigment irregularities.

CONCLUSION

Two factors clearly hamper a better assessment of the efficiency of photoprotection of the sun-induced cutaneous ageing: short durations (months) of the studies with regard to the global fate of photoaging by decades and the number of studied subjects, limited to hundreds for practical reasons. The methodology based on the automatic analysis of facial signs through selfies images could theoretically bypass both factors, allowing thousands of subjects to be studied along years.

A systematic review and meta-analysis of efficacy, safety, and satisfaction rates of laser combination treatments vs laser monotherapy in skin rejuvenation resurfacing

Laser therapies have been well-established in ameliorating skin-aging consequences. This systematic review aims to determine the efficacy, safety profile, and satisfaction rates of laser combination therapies on skin rejuvenation resurfacing. A systematic search was performed in four major databases up to September 2022. Skin rejuvenation studies were eligible comprising at least one laser combination arm, inclusive of all laser types (ablative or non-ablatives), and one monotherapy arm selected from one of the combined modalities. Studies combining one laser modality with radiofrequency (RF) or intense pulse light (IPL) were also assessed. Trials that did not encompass a monotherapy control arm were evaluated independently as single-arm studies. Eighteen clinical trials recruiting 448 cases were included after screening. A total of 532 nm KTP + 1064 nm Nd:YAG and 2940 nm Er:YAG + Nd:YAG were the two most utilized laser combinations and exerted higher improvements and milder adverse events, compared to their monotherapy in most studies. Combining CO2 with rhodamine-IPL or gallium arsenide laser increased efficacy and satisfaction and brings about faster skin recovery time. Augmenting CO2 + RF did not increase improvement vs CO2 laser alone but prolonged skin erythema. Our meta-analysis revealed the pooled prevalence of quartile improvement rates as 0%, 28%, 40%, 27% in laser combination group, and 0%, 9%, 31%, 17% in laser monotherapy group, respectively. The satisfaction within each quartile category was 39%, 25%, 15%, 7% in laser combination and 20%, 25%, 16%, 17% in laser monotherapy, respectively, suggestive of the higher efficacy and satisfaction of laser combination group. The pain scores were lower in laser combination group than monotherapy (4.8 ± 1.18 vs 7.18 ± 0.7, converted on a scale of 0 to 10). Post-laser skin erythema lasted less longer in the combination group (12.8 vs 15.24 days). Laser combination therapies were discovered to be superior to their monotherapies in terms of clinical improvement rates, diminished adverse events such as pain and erythema and patients satisfaction rates. Due to paucity of high-quality reportings, additional trials are warranted to corroborate these results.

Ecology and resistance to UV light and antibiotics of microbial communities on UV cabins in the dermatology service of a Spanish hospital

Microorganisms colonize all possible ecological habitats, including those subjected to harsh stressors such as UV radiation. Hospitals, in particular the UV cabins used in phototherapy units, constitute an environment in which microbes are intermittently subjected to UV irradiation. This selective pressure, in addition to the frequent use of antibiotics by patients, may represent a threat in the context of the increasing problem of antimicrobial resistance. In this work, a collection of microorganisms has been established in order to study the microbiota associated to the inner and outer surfaces of UV cabins and to assess their resistance to UV light and the antibiotics frequently used in the Dermatology Service of a Spanish hospital. Our results show that UV cabins harbor a relatively diverse biocenosis dominated by typically UV-resistant microorganisms commonly found in sun-irradiated environments, such as Kocuria, Micrococcus or Deinococcus spp., but also clinically relevant taxa, such as Staphylococcus or Pseudomonas spp. The UV-radiation assays revealed that, although some isolates displayed some resistance, UV is not a major factor shaping the biocenosis living on the cabins, since a similar pool of resistant microorganisms was identified on the external surface of the cabins. Interestingly, some Staphylococcus spp. displayed resistance to one or more antibiotics, although the hospital reported no cases of antibiotic-resistance infections of the patients using the cabins. Finally, no association between UV and antibiotic resistances was found.

Ultrasonographic analysis of facial skin thickness in relation to age, site, sex, and body mass index

BACKGROUND

Numerous nonsurgical but invasive cosmetic procedures are performed blindly in the dermis or subcutaneous fat layer of the facial skin.

OBJECTIVES

To measure the numerical skin thickness of the facial areas where dermatological procedures are performed by applying ultrasound techniques, and to make it possible to estimate the skin thickness by investigating the influence of several individual constitutional factors such as age, sex, and body mass index (BMI), so that these variables can be applied to estimate skin thickness.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Skin thickness was measured at eight different facial points using an ultrasound machine (Affiniti 50; Philips Inc.). Demographic data were gathered using questionnaires. Manual BMI was calculated from the weight and height of each participant, and individual BMI measurements were performed using a body composition analyzer.

RESULTS

In terms of whole skin thickness, the thickest point was the mouth corner, and the thinnest point was the lateral forehead. The thickest point in the epidermis was the chin, and the thinnest point was the nasolabial fold. The thickest point in the dermis was the corner of the mouth, and the thinnest was the lateral forehead. Full skin thickness and dermal thickness were mostly lower in females. Skin thickness was not significantly correlated with BMI.

CONCLUSION

The skin thickness at different points on the face was variable, and realistic data about skin thickness can be obtained by in vivo ultrasonographic analysis of the skin.

Research Progress on Skin Aging and Active Ingredients

With the advancement of living standards in modern society and the emergence of an aging population, an increasing number of people are becoming interested in the topic of aging and anti-aging. An important feature of aging is skin aging, and women are particularly concerned about skin aging. In the field of cosmetics, the market share of anti-aging products is increasing year by year. This article reviews the research and development progress of skin aging and related active compounds both domestically and internationally in recent years. The results show that, in terms of the research on skin aging, the popular theories mainly include free radicals and oxidative stress theory, inflammation theory, photoaging theory, and nonenzymatic glycosyl chemistry theory. In terms of research on the active ingredients with anti-aging activities in the skin, there are numerous reports on related products in clinical studies on human subjects, animal experiments, and experimental studies on cell cultures, with a variety of types. Most of the compounds against skin aging are sourced from natural products and their action mechanisms are mainly related to scavenging oxygen free radicals and enhancing antioxidant defenses. This review provides important references for the future research of skin aging and the development of related products. Although there is a great progress in skin aging including related active ingredients, ideal compounds or products are still lacking and need to be further validated. New mechanisms of skin aging, new active ingredients sourced from natural and artificial products, and new pharmaceutical forms including further clinical validations should be further investigated in the future.

Topical Application of M89PF Containing Vichy Mineralising Water and Probiotic Fractions Prevents Cutaneous Damage Induced by Exposure to UV and O3

Purpose

Exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation (UV) or ozone (O₃) results in stressed skin, leading to the alteration of the skin physical barrier and defence functions. In this work, the preventive benefit of a dermocosmetic, M89PF, containing Vichy mineralising water, probiotic fractions, antioxidant vitamins and hyaluronic acid, in the alteration of skin physical barrier and skin defence functions after exposure to O₃ and UV, alone or combined, was assessed.

Methods

Untreated and treated (M89PF) skin explants were exposed to O₃, to UV rays or to O₃+UV. Immunofluorescence was performed for skin barrier, oxidative stress, and inflammatory markers after one and four days of exposure to the pollutants.

Results

M89PF significantly (p≤0.05) prevented the decrease of the expression level of different skin barrier markers, and significantly (p≤0.05) prevented the induction of OxInflammatory markers and inflammasome components by UV, O_3, or both combined.

Conclusion

M89PF prevents skin barrier damage, as well as oxidative stress and inflammatory markers induced by exposome factors, such as UV, O_3, or both combined.

Photoaging and Topical Rejuvenation

Photoaging is a complex process of skin changes associated with chronic ultraviolet exposure. Prevention with photoprotection and treatment with topical retinoids are the core components of a topical antiaging regimen. Other topicals such as hydroquinone, vitamin C, niacinamide, and alpha hydroxyl acid can be added based on specific concerns. However, caution must be used with some of these products as the stability and absorption are major considerations. A simple topical regimen will reduce irritability and enhance compliance.

Protective Effect of Amaranthus cruentus L. Seed Oil on UVA-Radiation-Induced Apoptosis in Human Skin Fibroblasts

Since the exposure of fibroblasts to prolonged UVA radiation induces oxidative stress and apoptosis, there is a need for effective skin protection compounds with cytoprotective and antioxidant properties. One of their sources is Amaranthus cruentus L. seed oil (AmO), which is rich in unsaturated fatty acids, squalene, vitamin E derivatives and phytosterols. The aim of this study was to evaluate whether AmO evokes a protective effect on the apoptosis induced by UVA radiation in human skin fibroblasts. UVA radiation at an applied dose of 10 J/cm² caused a significant reduction in the survival of human skin fibroblasts and directed them into the apoptosis pathway. Increased expression of p53, caspase-3, caspase-9 and PARP proteins in UVA-treated fibroblasts suggests the intrinsic mechanism of apoptosis. Application of the oil at 0.1% and 0.15% concentrations to UVA-treated cells decreased the expression of these proteins, which was accompanied by increased cell survival. Similarly, the UVA-dependent decrease in the expression of p-Akt and mTOR proteins was restored under the effect of the studied oil. The molecular mechanism of this phenomenon was related to the stimulation of antioxidant processes through the activation of Nrf2. This suggests that AmO stimulated the antioxidant system in fibroblasts, preventing the effects of UVA-induced oxidative stress, which may lead to pharmaceutical and cosmetological applications as a sun-protective substance.

A Comparative Study of Skin Changes in Different Species of Mice in Chronic Photoaging Models

This study aimed to design a novel mouse model of chronic photoaging. We used three different species of mice (C57BL/6J, ICR, and KM) to create a chronic photoaging model of the skin. The irradiation time was gradually increased for 40 consecutive days. The skins of the mice were removed on day 41 and subjected to staining to observe them for morphological changes. Immunohistochemistry was used to detect tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) and p53 expression; superoxide dismutase (SOD) and malondialdehyde (MDA) were measured as well. Compared with C57BL/J mice, which showed hyperpigmentation, the irradiated skin of ICR and KM mice showed more obvious skin thickening and photoaging changes of the collagen and elastic fibers. KM mice had higher levels of inflammation, oxidative stress, and senescent cells. Compared with the 5-month-old KM mice, the photoaging changes of the 9-month-old KM mice were more pronounced, the SOD values were lower, and the MDA values were higher. In summary, KM mice have higher levels of abnormal elastic fibers, inflammation, cellular senescence, and oxidative stress than ICR mice, and are more suitable for studies related to chronic skin photoaging. C57BL/6J mice were found to be suitable for studies related to skin pigmentation due to photoaging.

The role and safety of UVA and UVB in UV-induced skin erythema

Background

Different wavelengths of ultraviolet (UV) light cause skin damage through different mechanisms. Minimal erythema dose (MED) is usually used to clinically evaluate skin sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation by inducing skin erythema using ultraviolet B (UVB) or ultraviolet A (UVA) + UVB.

Aims

In this study, we detected changes in the blood flow at the MED erythema caused by UVB and UVA + UVB radiation through optical coherence tomography (OCT) to explain the role of different bands of ultraviolet rays in erythema induction.

Methods

Two MED irradiation areas on the subjects' back were irradiated with UVB alone or UVA + UVB (UVA: UVB = 8:1). The absolute energy of UVB remained the same in UVB and UVA+UVB. At 24 h after the irradiation, the changes in the blood flow in the MED area were detected using OCT.

Results

Compared with the blank control, the maximum blood flow depth, blood flow peak, and total blood flow of UVB-MED and UVA+UVB-MED were significantly increased. Notably, the maximum blood flow depth and blood flow peak of UVB-MED were higher than UVA+UVB-MED. There was no significant difference in total blood perfusion between UVA+UVB-MED and UVB-MED. Under the same UVB energy, the skin erythema caused by UVA + UVB was weaker than UVB alone.

Conclusions

The analysis of local blood flow by OCT showed that the peak and maximum depth of local blood flow caused by UVB alone were significantly higher than UVA + UVB.

Environmental Air Pollutants Affecting Skin Functions with Systemic Implications

The increase in air pollution worldwide represents an environmental risk factor that has global implications for the health of humans worldwide. The skin of billions of people is exposed to a mixture of harmful air pollutants, which can affect its physiology and are responsible for cutaneous damage. Some polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons are photoreactive and could be activated by ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Therefore, such UVR exposure would enhance their deleterious effects on the skin. Air pollution also affects vitamin D synthesis by reducing UVB radiation, which is essential for the production of vitamin D3, tachysterol, and lumisterol derivatives. Ambient air pollutants, photopollution, blue-light pollution, and cigarette smoke compromise cutaneous structural integrity, can interact with human skin microbiota, and trigger or exacerbate a range of skin diseases through various mechanisms. Generally, air pollution elicits an oxidative stress response on the skin that can activate the inflammatory responses. The aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) can act as a sensor for small molecules such as air pollutants and plays a crucial role in responses to (photo)pollution. On the other hand, targeting AhR/Nrf2 is emerging as a novel treatment option for air pollutants that induce or exacerbate inflammatory skin diseases. Therefore, AhR with downstream regulatory pathways would represent a crucial signaling system regulating the skin phenotype in a Yin and Yang fashion defined by the chemical nature of the activating factor and the cellular and tissue context.

Disease-related biomarkers as experimental endpoints in 3D skin culture models

The success of in vitro 3D models in either recapitulating the normal tissue physiology or altered physiology or disease condition depends upon the identification and/or quantification of relevant biomarkers that confirm the functionality of these models. Various skin disorders, such as psoriasis, photoaging, vitiligo, etc., and cancers like squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma, etc. have been replicated via organotypic models. The disease biomarkers expressed by such cell cultures are quantified and compared with the biomarkers expressed in cultures depicting the normal tissue physiology, to identify the most prominent variations in their expression. This may also indicate the stage or reversal of these conditions upon treatment with relevant therapeutics. This review article presents an overview of the important biomarkers that have been identified in in-vitro 3D models of skin diseases as endpoints for validating the functionality of these models.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s10616-023-00574-2.

Smart nanostructures for targeted oxygen-producing photodynamic therapy of skin photoaging and potential mechanism

Background: Photodynamic therapy increases collagen and decreases solar fibrosis in photoaged skin; however, the efficacy of photodynamic therapy is limited in tissues with a hypoxic microenvironment. Methods: A novel autogenous oxygen-targeted nanoparticle, named MCZT, was synthesized based on the zeolitic imidazole framework material ZIF-8, methyl aminolevulinate, catalase and an anti-TRPV1 monoclonal antibody, and its effects on skin photoaging were investigated. Results: MCZT was successfully synthesized and showed uniform particle size, good dispersion, and excellent biocompatibility and safety. Moreover, MCZT effectively alleviated UV-induced inflammation, cellular senescence and apoptosis in HFF-1 cells. In in vivo models, MCZT ameliorated UV-evoked erythema and wrinkling, inflammation and oxidative stress, as well as the loss of collagen fibers and water, in the skin of mice. Conclusion: These findings suggest that MCZT holds promising potential for the treatment of skin photoaging.

Photoaging: Reversal of the Oxidative Stress Through Dietary Changes and Plant-Based Products

Redox flagging represents all life processes, and maintaining a physiological level of antioxidants is essential for the legitimate working of the cell. Genetics and environmental triggers are two major culminating factors for skin aging, both chronological and photoaging. The latter, however, relies principally upon the level of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure and the skin phototype. Apart from causing DNA damage, UVR also stimulates the receptors present in keratinocytes as well as fibroblasts. This in turn leads to the breakdown of collagen and a breach in the generation of new collagen. It is speculated that the breakdown of collagen in the dermis is ensured by the defective restoration that ultimately hampers the structural integrity of skin, leading to wrinkled and atrophic skin. The skin has an admixture of various endogenous antioxidants that work synergistically with vitamins and minerals to maintain cellular equilibrium. Although, their role in safeguarding the cells against the detrimental effects induced by UVR is still questionable and requires further research. However, the advancement in the biology of skin has led to the development of strategies that aim at skin rejuvenation and retarding the progression of photoaging and its visible signs. Photoaging in this article is reviewed in light of current concepts in pathogenesis and its prevention. In addition, the article focuses on both prevailing and forthcoming treatment strategies primarily through plant-based products that will help slow down the process of photoaging.

Photoreactivity and phototoxicity of experimentally photodegraded hair melanosomes from individuals of different skin phototypes

Even though melanin is commonly viewed as natural photoprotectant, the pigment demonstrates residual photoreactivity, which under certain conditions could contribute to UVA-dependent melanomagenesis. Skin melanin is constantly exposed to external stressors, including solar radiation, which could induce photodegradation of the pigment. Although photodegradation of melanin pigments was studied in synthetic models and RPE melanosomes, photochemical and photobiological effects of experimental photodegradation of human skin melanin of different chemical composition remain unknown. In this work, melanosomes isolated from hair of individuals of different skin phototypes (I-III, V) were exposed to high-intensity violet light and its impact on physical and chemical properties of the pigments were analyzed using electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR), spectrophotometry and dynamic light scattering (DLS). Photoreactivity of photodegraded melanins was examined by EPR oximetry, EPR spin-trapping and time-resolved singlet oxygen phosphorescence. Antioxidant potential of the pigments was measured using the EPR DPPH assay. Cellular effect of the exposure of melanosome-loaded HaCaT cells to UV-Vis light was determined by MTT assay, JC-10 assay, and iodometric assay. The data revealed that experimental photodegradation increased photoreactivity of natural melanins, while decreasing their antioxidant capacity. Photodegraded melanin was responsible for higher cell death, a decrease in mitochondrial membrane potential and elevated levels of lipid hydroperoxides.

The Extracellular Matrix Vitalizer RATM Increased Skin Elasticity by Modulating Mitochondrial Function in Aged Animal Skin

Oxidative stress-induced cellular senescence and mitochondrial dysfunction result in skin aging by increasing ECM levels-degrading proteins such as MMPs, and decreasing collagen synthesis. MMPs also destroy the basement membrane, which is involved in skin elasticity. The extracellular matrix vitalizer RATM (RA) contains various antioxidants and sodium hyaluronate, which lead to skin rejuvenation. We evaluated whether RA decreases oxidative stress and mitochondrial dysfunction, eventually increasing skin elasticity in aged animals. Oxidative stress was assessed by assaying NADPH oxidase activity, which is involved in ROS generation, and the expression of SOD, which removes ROS. NADPH oxidase activity was increased in aged skin and decreased by RA injection. SOD expression was decreased in aged skin and increased by RA injection. Damage to mitochondrial DNA and mitochondrial fusion markers was increased in aged skin and decreased by RA. The levels of mitochondrial biogenesis markers and fission markers were decreased in aged skin and increased by RA. The levels of NF-κB/AP-1 and MMP1/2/3/9 were increased in aged skin and decreased by RA. The levels of TGF-β, CTGF, and collagen I/III were decreased in aged skin and increased by RA. The expression of laminin and nidogen and basement membrane density were decreased in aged skin and increased by RA. RA increased collagen fiber accumulation and elasticity in aged skin. In conclusion, RA improves skin rejuvenation by decreasing oxidative stress and mitochondrial dysfunction in aged skin.

The Impact of Flavonoid-Loaded Nanoparticles in the UV Protection and Safety Profile of Topical Sunscreens

Excessive UV radiation exposure is harmful to skin cells since sunburn is accompanied by oxidative burst, leading to a rapid increase in skin cancer. However, the insufficient UV photoprotection of approved sunscreens and the negative impact of their compositions on ecosystems and human health makes the utility of sunscreen a questionable recommendation. Therefore, discovering UV filters with significant antioxidant activity and improved topical performance and photostability is an urgent need. Recently, the use of nanosized natural molecules incorporated in sunscreens has been a scientific hot topic, as it has been suggested that they provide a synergistic effect with synthetic UV filters, improving overall SPF and antioxidant activity, higher retention on the epidermis, and less toxicity. The aim of this review was to verify the usefulness of sunscreens incorporating flavonoid-loaded nanoparticles. A literature review was performed, where original and review articles published in the last 6 years were analyzed. Formulations containing nanosized flavonoids with improved UVA photoprotection and safer toxicological profiles, associated or not with synthetic filters, are promising sunscreens and more clinical investigation must be performed to validate these findings.

Molecular basis of skin photoaging and therapeutic interventions by plant-derived natural product ingredients: A comprehensive review

Skin areas exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UV) from sunlight are more prone to photoaging than unexposed areas evidenced by several signs which include skin dryness, irregular pigmentation, lentigines, hyperpigmentation, wrinkling, and decreased elasticity. Plant-based natural product ingredients with therapeutic potential against skin photoaging are gaining more attention. This article aims the reviewing the research work done in exploring the cellular and molecular mechanisms involved in UV-induced skin photoaging, followed by summarizing the mechanistic insights involved in its therapeutics by natural product-based ingredients. In the mechanistic section of the convoluted procedure of photoaging, we described the effect of UV radiation (UVR) on different cellular macromolecules (direct damage) and subsequently, the deleterious consequences of UVR-generated reactive oxygen species (indirect damage) and signaling pathways activated or inhibited by UV induced ROS generation in various cellular pathologies of skin photoaging like inflammation, extracellular matrix degradation, apoptosis, mitochondrial dysfunction, and immune suppression. We also discussed the effect of UV radiation on the adipose tissue, and transient receptor potential cation channel V of photoaging skin. In the past few decades, mechanistic studies performed in this area have deciphered various therapeutic targets, opening avenues for different available therapeutic options against this pathological condition. So the remaining portion of the review deals with various natural product-based therapeutic agents available against skin photodamage.

Handelin Reduces Ultraviolet A-Induced Photoaging by Inhibiting Reactive Oxygen Species Generation and Enhancing Autophagy

Photoaging is mainly caused by the exposure of the skin to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Among them, damage to human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cells caused by ultraviolet A (UVA) is the main cause of skin aging. Researchers have dedicated to identifying natural compounds from plants to fight against UV radiation-induced photoaging. We previously found that extracts from wild chrysanthemum could prevent acute damage and photoaging induced by UV irradiation. As one of the most abundant ingredients in wild chrysanthemum extract, handelin was hypothesized to have the potential to prevent UVA-induced photoaging of skin fibroblast. In the present study, we report the great potential of handelin in combating UVA-induced photoaging of fibroblasts. We firstly demonstrated that handelin was safe for skin fibroblast as high as a concentration of 0.0125 μM, showing no toxicity on the cells and improved cell viability. Furthermore, handelin can reduce UVA-induced cellular senescence, indicated by a reduced proportion of senescence-associated beta-galactose positive cells and the expression of P21. We then verified that handelin pretreatment markedly attenuated the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation after UVA irradiation. Meanwhile, we found that handelin enhances autophagy after UVA irradiation, and autophagy is involved in the quality control of intracellular proteins after UV-induced damage (partially indirectly via ROS). Therefore, these results suggest that handelin has a very high potential as an effective ingredient against UVA-induced skin aging. Moreover, this provides an important basis for further research on the photoprotective mechanism of handelin.

Use of Natural Agents and Agrifood Wastes for the Treatment of Skin Photoaging

Photoaging is the premature aging of the skin caused by repeated exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays. The harmful effects of UV rays-from the sun or from artificial sources-alter normal skin structures and cause visible damage, especially in the most exposed areas. Fighting premature aging is one of the most important challenges of the medical landscape. Additionally, consumers are looking for care products that offer multiple benefits with reduced environmental and economic impact. The growing requests for bioactive compounds from aromatic plants for pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications have to find new sustainable methods to increase the effectiveness of new active formulations derived from eco-compatible technologies. The principle of sustainable practices and the circular economy favor the use of bioactive components derived from recycled biomass. The guidelines of the European Commission support the reuse of various types of organic biomass and organic waste, thus transforming waste management problems into economic opportunities. This review aims to elucidate the main mechanisms of photoaging and how these can be managed using natural renewable sources and specific bioactive derivatives, such as humic extracts from recycled organic biomass, as potential new actors in modern medicine.

Preparation of Cod Skin Collagen Peptides/Chitosan-Based Temperature-Sensitive Gel and Its Anti-Photoaging Effect in Skin

Background

Photoaging decreases quality of life and increases the risk of skin cancer, underscoring the urgent need to explore natural, high-efficacy, anti-skin photoaging (SP) active substances.

Methods

In this study, a gel (CS/CSCPs/β-GP gel) was prepared using chitosan (CS) and sodium β-glycerophosphate (β-GP) through crosslinking with small molecular CSCPs as the carried drug. We evaluated its structural characteristics and properties. The effect of CS/CSCPs/β-GP gel on the degree of ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin aging of mice was investigated through comparative analysis of skin damage, the integrity of collagen tissues and elastic fibers, levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and key inflammatory factors (tumor necrosis factor [TNF]-α and interleukin [IL]-1β, IL-6, and IL-10), and tissue expression of matrix metalloproteinase-3 (MMP-3) after repeated UV irradiation in a nude mice SP model.

Results

The results showed that CS/CSCPs/β-GP gel was successfully prepared and had the desired characteristics. Compared with CSCPs alone, the CS/CSCPs/β-GP gel more evidently improved typical photoaging characteristics on mouse dorsal skin. It also increased the moisture content, causing the skin to become glossy and elastic. Pathological skin analysis revealed that this peptide-carrying gel can effectively inhibit epidermal thickening, reduce tissue inflammatory infiltration, suppress collagen fiber degradation, increase the collagen content, alleviate structural elastic fiber damage, and significantly inhibit abnormal MMP-3 expression. In addition, biochemical analysis showed that the CS/CSCPs/β-GP gel can effectively inhibit the elevated expressions of ROS and key proinflammatory factors (TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6) in photoaging skin tissues and promote expression of the anti-inflammatory factor IL-10.

Conclusion

SP can cause many clinical skin diseases, such as solar freckle-like nevus, solar keratosis, cutaneous melanoma, and squamous cell carcinoma. CSCPs are a high-efficacy anti-SP natural active substance and CS/CSCPs/β-GP gel can synergistically enhance the CSCPs' anti-SP effect. The mechanism is likely related to the inhibited activation of ROS/nuclear transcription factor-κB signaling and the expression of downstream inflammatory factors.

Optimization of Cyclodextrin-Assisted Extraction of Phenolics from Helichrysum italicum for Preparation of Extracts with Anti-Elastase and Anti-Collagenase Properties

Helichrysum italicum is a plant traditionally used for skin-related disorders that is becoming an increasingly popular ingredient in cosmetic products. In this work, a "green" ultrasound-assisted extraction method for H. italicum phenolics was developed using skin-friendly cyclodextrins (CDs). Extraction conditions needed for the greatest yield of target compounds (total phenolics, phenolic acids, and flavonoids) were calculated. The composition of the extracts was determined using LC-MS and spectrophotometric methods. Among the tested CDs, 2-hydroxylpropyl-beta-CD (HP-β-CD) was the best suited for extraction of target phenolics and used to prepare two optimized extracts, OPT 1 (the extract with the highest phenolic acid content) and OPT 2 (the extract with the highest total phenol and flavonoid content). The extracts were prepared at 80 °C, using 0.089 g of plant material/g solvent (0.6 mmol of HP-β-CD), with or without addition of 1.95% (w/w) lactic acid. The main metabolite in both extracts was 3,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid. It was found that the addition of lactic acid greatly contributes to the extraction of arzanol, a well-known anti-inflammatory agent. IC₅₀ values of the anti-elastase (22.360 ± 0.125 μL extract/mL and 20.067 ± 0.975 for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) and anti-collagenase (12.035 ± 1.029 μL extract/mL and 14.392 ± 0.705 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) activities of the extracts surpassed those of the applied positive controls, namely ursolic and gallic acids. This activity deems the prepared extracts promising ingredients for natural cosmetics, appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products, removing the need for the evaporation of conventional solvents.

Inflammatory stimulus worsens the effects of UV-A exposure on J774 cells

UV-A radiation affects skin homeostasis by promoting oxidative distress. Endogenous photosensitizers in the dermis and epidermis of human skin absorb UV-A radiation forming excited states (singlet and triplet) and reactive oxygen species (ROS) producing oxidized compounds that trigger biological responses. The activation of NF-kB induces the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines and can intensify the generation of ROS. However, there is no studies evaluating the cross talks between inflammatory stimulus and UV-A exposure on the levels of redox misbalance and inflammation. In here, we evaluated the effects of UV-A exposure on J774 macrophage cells previously challenged with LPS in terms of oxidative distress, release of pro-inflammatory cytokines, and activation of regulated cell death pathways. Our results showed that LPS potentiates the dose-dependent UV-A-induced oxidative distress and cytokine release, in addition to amplifying the regulated (autophagy and apoptosis) and non-regulated (necrosis) mechanisms of cell death, indicating that a previous inflammatory stimulus potentiates UV-A-induced cell damage. We discuss these results in terms of the current-available skin care strategies.

The Effect of Carnosine on UVA-Induced Changes in Intracellular Signaling of Human Skin Fibroblast Spheroids

Dermis fibroblasts are very sensitive to penetrating UVA radiation and induce photo-damage. To protect skin cells against this environmental damage, there is an urgent need for effective compounds, specifically targeting UVA-induced mitochondrial injury. This study aimed to analyze the effect of carnosine on the proteome of UVA-irradiated human skin fibroblast, cultured in a three-dimensional (3D) biological system recapitulating dermal compartment as a test system to investigate the altered cellular pathways after 48 h and 7 days of culture with or without carnosine treatment. The obtained results indicate that UVA dysregulates Oxidative Phosphorylation, the Fibrosis Signaling Pathway, Glycolysis I and Nrf2-mediated Oxidative Stress Response. Carnosine exercises provide a protective function against the harmful effects of UVA radiation by activating the Nrf2 pathway with the upregulations of some ROS-detoxifying enzymes such as the glutathione S-transferase (GST) protein family. Additionally, carnosine regulates the activation of the Epithelial Adherens Junction and Wound Healing Signaling Pathway by mediating the activation of structural proteins such as vinculin and zyxin as well as fibronectin 1 and collagen type XVIII alpha 1 chain against UVA-induced changes.

(-)-Epigallocatechin-3-Gallate Protects Human Skin Fibroblasts from Ultraviolet a Induced Photoaging

Background

Ultraviolet (UV) is a common stressor of skin and repeated UVA radiation contributes to photoaging. (-)-Epigallocatechin-3-Gallate (EGCG), as the major polyphenol that is found in green tea, and catechins and have shown considerable antioxidant capacity.

Purpose

Our study aims to explore the effects of EGCG on UVA-induced skin photoaging process and associated mechanisms.

Methods

In this study, human skin fibroblasts (HSFs) were treated with UVA and EGCG, and subsequent changes in cell morphology, telomeres, antioxidant capacity, cell cycle, and related genes were evaluated to examine the role and mechanisms of EGCG in delaying skin photoaging.

Results

HSF exposed to UVA underwent an increase in aging-related biomarkers and telomere shortening. Also, UVA radiation inhibited the secretion of transforming growth factor-beta1 (TGF-β1), induced cell cycle arrest, down-regulated antioxidant enzymes, and promoted the accumulation of oxidative product malondialdehyde (MDA) to cause further damage to cells. Increased expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase-1 (TIMP-1), p66 at mRNA levels were also observed after UVA irradiation. EGCG treatment effectively inhibited above damage processes caused by UVA radiation in HSF.

Conclusion

Our study indicated that the potential mechanism of EGCG retarding photoaging is closely related to its powerful antioxidant effects and the ability to regulate the expression of related genes, and the usage of EGCG will be a potential strategy in preventing skin photoaging induced by UVA radiation.