Characterization and mechanisms of photoageing-related changes in skin. Damages of basement membrane and dermal structures

Resveratrol activates autophagy and protects from UVA-induced photoaging in human skin fibroblasts and the skin of male mice by regulating the AMPK pathway

Skin photoaging is mostly caused by ultraviolet A (UVA), although active medications to effectively counteract UVA-induced photoaging have not yet been created. Resveratrol, a naturally occurring polyphenol found in the skin of grapes, has been shown to have various biological functions such as anti-inflammatory and antioxidant characteristics. However, the role of resveratrol in UVA-induced photoaging has not been clarified. We investigated the mechanism of action of resveratrol by UVA irradiation of human skin fibroblasts (HSF) and innovatively modified a mouse model of photoaging. The results demonstrated that resveratrol promoted AMP-activated protein kinase (AMPK) phosphorylation to activate autophagy, reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, inhibit apoptosis, and restore normal cell cycle to alleviate UVA-induced photoaging. In addition, subcutaneous injection of resveratrol not only improved the symptoms of roughness, erythema, and increased wrinkles in the skin of UVA photodamaged mice, but also alleviated epidermal hyperkeratosis and hyperpigmentation, reduced inflammatory responses, and inhibited collagen fiber degradation. In conclusion, our studies proved that resveratrol can treat UVA-induced photoaging and elucidated the possible molecular mechanisms involved, providing a new therapeutic strategy for future anti-aging.

Intradermal Treatment with a Hyaluronic Acid Complex Supplemented with Amino Acids and Antioxidant Vitamins Improves Cutaneous Hydration and Viscoelasticity in Healthy Subjects

Intradermal injection of bioactive compounds is used to reduce the effects of aging skin. The aim of this work is to study the response of facial injection of a hyaluronic acid complex supplemented with amino acids and antioxidant vitamins on skin rejuvenation. A total of 40 healthy adult subjects were recruited to whom this complex was injected into the facial skin, three consecutive times every two weeks. Together with assessing the degree of skin hydration, the level of skin microcirculation, wrinkles, skin color, and skin biomechanical parameters were evaluated. Using the GAIS scale, the degree of satisfaction of the participants was assessed. At 42 days (D42), there was an 11-12% increase in skin hydration and viscoelasticity, a 23% increase in skin density, a 27% increase in skin microcirculation, and a significant lightening and whitening of skin color, but without causing changes in skin wrinkles. A value between 1 and 3 on the GAIS scale was observed between 70 and 92% of the participants, and 87% of subjects found their skin more beautiful, 85% would recommend this treatment, and more than 50% found their face rejuvenated. In summary, the intradermal treatment tested suggests skin rejuvenation, with a good degree of safety.

Bioinformatics-based analysis of the relationship between plasminogen regulatory genes and photoaging

BACKGROUND

Ultraviolet radiation causes skin photoaging by producing a variety of enzymes, which impact both skin health and hinder beauty. Currently, the early diagnosis and treatment of photoaging remain a challenge. Bioinformatics analysis has strong advantages in exploring core genes and the biological pathways of photoaging.

AIMS

To screen and validate key risk genes associated with plasminogen in photoaging and to identify potential target genes for photoaging.

METHODS

Two human transcriptome datasets were obtained by searching the Gene Expression Omnibus (GEO) database, and the mRNAs in the GSE131789 dataset were differentially analyzed, and then the weighted gene co-expression network analysis (WGCNA) was performed to find out the strongest correlations. Template genes, interaction analysis of differentially expressed genes (DEGs), modular genes with the most WGCNA correlations, and genecard database genes related to plasminogen were performed, and further Kyoto genes and Genome Encyclopedia (KEGG) pathway analysis. Two different algorithms, least absolute shrinkage and selection operator (LASSO) and support vector machines-recursive feature elimination (SVM-RFE), were used to find key genes. Then the data set (GSE206495) was validated and analyzed. Real-time PCR was performed to validate the expression of key genes through in vitro cellular experiments.

RESULTS

IFI6, IFI44L, HRSP12, and BMP4 were screened from datasets as key genes for photoaging and further analysis showed that these genes have significant diagnostic value for photoaging.

CONCLUSION

IFI6, IFI44L, HRSP12, and BMP4 play a key role in the pathogenesis of photoaging, and serve as promising potential predictive biomarkers for photoaging.

Potential of Bioactive Protein and Protein Hydrolysate from Apis mellifera Larvae as Cosmeceutical Active Ingredients for Anti-Skin Aging

This study aimed to extract bioactive proteins and protein hydrolysates from Apis mellifera larvae and assess their potential application in cosmetics as well as their irritation properties. The larvae were defatted and extracted using various mediums, including DI water, along with 0.5 M aqueous solutions of sodium hydroxide, ascorbic acid, citric acid, and hydrochloric acid. Subsequently, the crude proteins were hydrolyzed using the Alcalase® enzyme. All extracts underwent testing for antioxidant activities via the 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) and Griess assays. Anti-aging properties were evaluated in terms of anti-collagenase and anti-hyaluronidase effects. Irritation potential was assessed using the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) test. The results revealed that the sodium hydroxide extraction showed promising outcomes in terms of yield, protein content, and effectiveness in inhibiting hyaluronidase, with the highest inhibition at 78.1 ± 1.5%, comparable to that of oleanolic acid. Conversely, crude protein extracted with ascorbic acid and its hydrolysate showed notable antioxidant and collagenase-inhibitory activities. Remarkably, their anti-collagenase effects were comparable to those of ascorbic acid and lysine. Additionally, it demonstrated safety upon testing with the CAM. In conclusion, the findings provided valuable insights into the utilization of A. mellifera larval proteins as active ingredients with a wide range of cosmeceutical applications, particularly due to their antioxidant, anti-aging, and low irritation properties, which hold significant promise for anti-skin wrinkles.

Extracellular Vesicles from Ecklonia cava and Phlorotannin Promote Rejuvenation in Aged Skin

Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (EVs) elicit diverse biological effects, including promoting skin health. EVs isolated from Ecklonia cava (EV-EC) carry heat shock protein 70 (HSP70), which inhibits key regulators such as TNF-α, MAPKs, and NF-κB, consequently downregulating matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Aging exacerbates oxidative stress, upregulating MAPK and NF-κB signaling and worsening extracellular matrix degradation in the skin. E. cava-derived phlorotannin (PT) mitigates MAPK and NF-κB signaling. We evaluated the impact of EV-EC and PT on skin rejuvenation using an in vitro keratinocyte senescence model and an in vivo aged-mouse model. Western blotting confirmed the presence of HSP70 in EV-EC. Treatment with EV-EC and PT in senescent keratinocytes increased HSP70 expression and decreased the expression of TNF-α, MAPK, NF-κB, activator protein-1 (AP-1), and MMPs. Oxidative stress was also reduced. Sequential treatment with PT and EV-EC (PT/EV-EC) yielded more significant results compared to individual treatments. The administration of PT/EV-EC to the back skin of aged mice mirrored the in vitro findings, resulting in increased collagen fiber accumulation and improved elasticity in the aged skin. Therefore, PT/EV-EC holds promise in promoting skin rejuvenation by increasing HSP70 expression, decreasing the expression of MMPs, and reducing oxidative stress in aged skin.

New Insight into Utilization of Fish By-Product Proteins and Their Skin Health Promoting Effects

In regions reliant on fisheries for livelihoods, a significant number of fish by-products are generated annually due to processing. These discarded parts contain valuable biological resources, such as proteins, fish oils, and trace elements, thus holding enormous potential for reutilization. In recent years, fish by-product proteins have been widely utilized in skincare products due to their rich collagen content, biosafety, and biocompatibility. This review summarizes the research into and applications of fish by-product proteins in skin health, including alleviating oxidative stress and skin inflammation, reducing DNA damage, mitigating melanin production, improving skin hydration, slowing skin matrix degradation, and promoting synthesis. Additionally, the possibility of improving skin health by improving the abundance of gut microbiota is also discussed. This review underscores the importance of fish by-product proteins in the fisheries, food processing, cosmetics, and biomedical industries.

Radiofrequency Treatment Attenuates Age-Related Changes in Dermal-Epidermal Junctions of Animal Skin

The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) is essential for maintaining skin structural integrity and regulating cell survival and proliferation. Thus, DEJ rejuvenation is key for skin revitalization, particularly in age-related DEJ deterioration. Radiofrequency (RF) treatment, known for its ability to enhance collagen fiber production through thermal mechanisms and increase heat shock protein (HSP) expression, has emerged as a promising method for skin rejuvenation. Additionally, RF activates Piezo1, an ion channel implicated in macrophage polarization toward an M2 phenotype and enhanced TGF-β production. This study investigated the impact of RF treatment on HSP47 and HSP90 expression, known stimulators of DEJ protein expression. Furthermore, using in vitro and aged animal skin models, we assessed whether RF-induced Piezo1 activation and the subsequent M2 polarization could counter age-related DEJ changes. The RF treatment of H2O2-induced senescent keratinocytes upregulated the expression of HSP47, HSP90, TGF-β, and DEJ proteins, including collagen XVII. Similarly, the RF treatment of senescent macrophages increased Piezo1 and CD206 (M2 marker) expression. Conditioned media from RF-treated senescent macrophages enhanced the expression of TGF-β and DEJ proteins, such as nidogen and collagen IV, in senescent fibroblasts. In aged animal skin, RF treatment increased the expression of HSP47, HSP90, Piezo1, markers associated with M2 polarization, IL-10, and TGF-β. Additionally, RF treatment enhanced DEJ protein expression. Moreover, RF reduced lamina densa replication, disrupted lesions, promoted hemidesmosome formation, and increased epidermal thickness. Overall, RF treatment effectively enhanced DEJ protein expression and mitigated age-related DEJ structural changes by increasing HSP levels and activating Piezo1.

Co-Treatment with Phlorotannin and Extracellular Vesicles from Ecklonia cava Inhibits UV-Induced Melanogenesis

Hyperpigmentation due to ultraviolet (UV)-induced melanogenesis causes various esthetic problems. Phlorotannin (PT) and extracellular vesicles (EVs) derived from various plants suppress melanogenesis pathways. We used UV-exposed keratinocytes and animal skin to determine if co-treatment with PT and EVs from Ecklonia cava (EVE) could inhibit melanogenesis by reducing UV-induced oxidative stress and the expression of the thioredoxin-interacting protein (TXNIP)/nucleotide-binding oligomerization domain-like receptor family pyrin domain containing the 3 (NLRP3)/interleukin-18 (IL-18) pathway, which are upstream signals of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor. UV exposure increased oxidative stress in keratinocytes and animal skin, as evaluated by 8-OHdG expression, and this effect was reduced by co-treatment with PT and EVE. UV also increased binding between NLRP3 and TXNIP, which increased NLRP3 inflammasome activation and IL-18 secretion, and this effect was reduced by co-treatment with PT and EVE in keratinocytes and animal skin. In melanocytes, conditioned media (CM) from UV-exposed keratinocytes increased the expression of melanogenesis-related pathways; however, these effects were reduced with CM from UV-exposed keratinocytes treated with PT and EVE. Similarly, PT and EVE treatment reduced melanogenesis-related signals, melanin content, and increased basement membrane (BM) components in UV-exposed animal skin. Thus, co-treatment with PT and EVE reduced melanogenesis and restored the BM structure by reducing oxidative stress and TXNIP/NLRP3/IL-18 pathway expression.

Compound collagen peptide powder improves skin photoaging by reducing oxidative stress and activating TGF-β1/Smad pathway

Fish collagen peptide (FCP) has been extensively investigated as a natural product that can combat photoaging; however, its efficacy is limited by its singular composition. Compound collagen peptide powder (CCPP) is a novel functional food formulation that exhibits photoprotective properties and comprises FCP and a blend of natural botanical ingredients. The objective of this study was to investigate the efficacy of CCPP and its molecular mechanism. CCPP had a low molecular weight, facilitating its efficient absorption, and was abundant in amino acids, total polyphenols, and total flavonoids. The results of in vivo studies demonstrated that CCPP exhibited significant efficacy in reducing skin wrinkles, enhancing the contents of water and oil in the skin, and ameliorating histopathological alterations in mice. The results of in vitro studies demonstrated that CCPP effectively mitigated photoaging in human skin fibroblasts by attenuating oxidative stress and promoting extracellular matrix (ECM) synthesis. Moreover, we clearly demonstrated that the TGF β1/Smad pathway was involved in the promotion of ECM synthesis and cell proliferation by CCPP in human skin fibroblasts. These findings suggest that, compared with single collagen, CCPP has a more comprehensive range of antiphotoaging properties.

Objective Non-Invasive Bio-Parametric Evaluation of Regenerated Skin: A Comparison of Two Acellular Dermal Substitutes

Several dermal substitutes are available on the market, but there is no precise indication that helps surgeons choose the proper one. Few studies have tried to compare different xenogeneic bioengineered products, but no objective bio-parametric comparison has been made yet. Fifteen patients who underwent skin reconstruction with Integra® or Pelnac® were retrospectively evaluated. After at least 12 months of follow-up, an objective and quantitative assessment of several skin biophysical properties, such as color, texture, elasticity, hydration, glossiness and trans-epidermal water loss, were measured with non-invasive skin measurement devices. The grafted skin showed a reduction of the superficial hydration level and a tendency to lower values of trans-epidermal water loss with both dermal substitutes. Melanic and hemoglobin pigmentation were higher in comparison to the donor site in both groups, while a melanic pigmentation increase versus the surrounding skin was seen just with Integra®. Finally, the skin was found to be more elastic when reconstructed with Integra®. The skin barrier appeared to be intact in both groups. Hence, these substitutes are valuable means of skin regeneration. Integra® seems to be more advantageous for reconstructing areas that need more skin flexibility.

FBLN5 was Regulated by PRDM9, and Promoted Senescence and Osteogenic Differentiation of Human Periodontal Ligament Stem Cells

OBJECTIVES

Periodontal ligament stem cells (PDLSCs) are ideal seed cells for periodontal tissue regeneration. Our previous studies have indicated that the histone methyltransferase PRDM9 plays an important role in human periodontal ligament stem cells (hPDLSCs). Whether FBLN5, which is a downstream gene of PRDM9, also has a potential impact on hPDLSCs is still unclear.

METHODS

Senescence was assessed using β-galactosidase and Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). Osteogenic differentiation potential of hPDLSCs was measured through Alkaline phosphatase (ALP) activity assay and Alizarin red detection, while gene expression levels were evaluated using western blot and RT-qPCR analysis.

RESULTS

FBLN5 overexpression promoted the osteogenic differentiation and senescence of hPDLSCs. FBLN5 knockdown inhibited the osteogenic differentiation and senescence of hPDLSCs. Knockdown of PRDM9 decreased the expression of FBLN5 in hPDLSCs and inhibited senescence of hPDLSCs. Additionally, both FBLN5 and PRDM9 promoted the expression of phosphorylated p38 MAPK, Erk1/2 and JNK. The p38 MAPK pathway inhibitor SB203580 and the Erk1/2 pathway inhibitor PD98059 have the same effects on inhibiting the osteogenic differentiation and senescence of hPDLSCs. The JNK pathway inhibitor SP600125 reduced the senescence of hPDLSCs.

CONCLUSION

FBLN5 promoted senescence and osteogenic differentiation of hPDLSCs via activation of the MAPK signaling pathway. FBLN5 was positively targeted by PRDM9, which also activated the MAPK signaling pathway.

Correlating facial skin parameters with age and gender in population of Shaanxi Province, China

OBJECTIVE

This study was designed to comprehensively evaluate the changes in facial skin biophysical parameters with age, as well the influence of gender differences in populations of Shaanxi Province, China.

METHODS

Fourteen skin parameters, including stratum corneum hydration (SCH), transdermal water loss (TEWL), erythema, melanin, R0, R2, R5, R7, F4, gloss, skin surface pH, skin erythema index (a*), wrinkle length, and sebum, were measured by noninvasive instruments in 481 volunteers from Shaanxi Province. Spearman correlation analysis was performed to analyze the relationship between skin parameters and age. Additionally, skin parameters were analyzed for different age groups and different genders.

RESULTS

The results of the study showed a linear decrease in skin surface pH and sebum content with age, and the skin elasticity parameters R0, R2, R5, and R7 decreased significantly at the age of 54-65 years. Wrinkle length showed a linear and increase with age. R5 showed a weak negative correlation with age, R2, R7, and sebum content showed a moderate negative correlation, while wrinkle length showed a strong positive correlation. Considering the effect of gender on skin parameters, the results showed that SCH and gloss were lower in men than in women, while TEWL, erythema, melanin, wrinkle length, and sebum were higher than in women. However, there was no difference in skin elasticity between them.

CONCLUSION

The facial skin parameters, especially for the wrinkle length, exhibited the strong correlation relationship with ages in Shaanxi Province. Meanwhile, most skin parameters show significant differences with gender, which can provide a reference for future research and development in the field of cosmetics.

Molecular insights of human skin epidermal and dermal aging

Human skin is the most widespread and abundant type of tissue in the human body. With the passage of time, most of our organs, including a substantial part of the skin, tend to undergo a gradual thinning or decrease in size. As we age, there is a gradual and progressive reduction in the thickness of both the epidermis and dermis layers of our skin. This is primarily attributed to the decline of epidermal stem cells and the loss of dermal collagen, which is the most abundant protein in the human body. Age-related alterations of the epidermis and dermis impair skin structure/function and create a tissue microenvironment that promotes age-related skin diseases, such as impaired skin barrier, delayed wound healing, and skin cancer development. This review will examine the current body of literature pertaining to our knowledge of skin epidermal and dermal aging.

Evaluation of effectiveness of tranexamic acid as mesotherapy in improvement of periorbital wrinkling in a trial study

BACKGROUND

Tranexamic acid is used to treat pigmented disorder in dermatology for a long time however there are limited data for effectiveness of tranexamic acid for rejuvenation and improvement of wrinkle. Here we want to find the effectiveness of tranexamic acid as mesotherapy in improvement of periorbital wrinkle in a clinical trial study.

METHODS

Patients with melasma who were treated with 4 session of tranexamic acid mesotherapy at intervals on 1 week were evaluated with Visioface device before starting and 1 month after last course of treatment. The outcomes including volume, area, area percent, and depth were measured by Visioface device.

RESULTS

Mean of periorbital wrinkles volume before and after procedure were 89 271 and 74 639 pixel3 (px3 ), respectively. Very significant difference with p-value of <0.001 was detected at volume of patient wrinkles before and after treatment. Moreover, the mean of area (and area percent) of their periorbital wrinkles before and after therapeutic method were 8481 Px3 (1.131%) and 7184 Px3 (0.646%), respectively, with significant differences (both have p-value of <0.001).Mean of periorbital wrinkles depth at before and after treatment were 9.8 and 9.6, respectively, without remarkable difference (p-value was 0.257).

CONCLUSION

Tranexamic acid mesotherapy significantly leads to reduced volume and area of wrinkles. Injection of tranexamic acid as mesotherapy seems to be effective in improvement of periorbital wrinkling.

Effect of stem cell secretome in skin rejuvenation: a narrative review

PURPOSE

Cutaneous aging is an inevitable biological process that develops over time due to cumulative cellular and molecular changes caused by exposure to intrinsic (chronological aging) and extrinsic (photo-aging) factors on the skin. Skin aging is characterized by a decline in the body's capability to sustain senescence, dermal cell apoptosis, and homeostasis. Stem cell secretions (secretome) are defined as the total set of dynamically overlapping paracrine soluble growth factors, cytokines, chemokines, angiogenic factors, extracellular matrix proteins, and antimicrobial peptides known to be responsible for tissue rejuvenation, regeneration, homeostasis, and immunomodulation.

METHODS

In this review, we summarized the molecular and regulatory mechanism of the secretome in preventing the skin aging process, as well as its capacity in inducing skin rejuvenation. Furthermore, we illustrated secretome efficiency as an anti-aging therapeutic strategy based on in vitro and in vivo published studies.

RESULTS

In all reviewed publications, the secretome has been proven to be the most effective treatment for aged skin, capable of reversing the aging process through the action of cytokines, growth factors, and collagen, which are its primary components. The reported mechanism of action involves modulating the signaling pathways of aging and replenishing the skin with collagen, fibronectin, and elastin, ultimately resulting in skin renewal and rejuvenation.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, compared to available treatments, the secretome shows great promise as an anti-aging therapy.

Tolerability and efficacy assessment of an oral collagen supplement for the improvement of biophysical and ultrasonographic parameters of skin in middle eastern consumers

BACKGROUND

Topical skin care products often do not reach the deeper layers of the skin, and oral hydrolyzed collagen is one of the newest and most popular systemic supplementations for skin rejuvenation. However, there are limited information in case of Middle Eastern consumers OBJECTIVE: The purpose of this study was to evaluate the tolerability and efficacy of an oral collagen supplement for improvement of skin elasticity, hydration, and roughness in Middle Eastern consumers.

METHODS AND MATERIALS

It was a 12-week, before-after clinical study, conducted on 20 participants (18 women and 2 men) aged 44.15 ± 5.36 years with skin type III-IV. Skin elasticity parameters (R0, R2, R5, and R7), skin hydration and friction, as well as the thickness and echo density of the dermis, were measured after six and 12 weeks daily intake of the study product, as well as 4 weeks after stopping its use (week 16). Participants' satisfaction was assessed on the basis of their answers to the standard questionnaire, and tolerability of the product was assessed by monitoring the adverse effects.

RESULTS

A significant improvement was detected in R2, R5, and skin friction at week 12 (p-values 0.041, 0.012 and <0.01, respectively). At week 16, the values remained at an increased level, which indicates the persistence of the results. The increase of dermis density in week 16 was also significant (p-value = 0.03). Moderate overall satisfaction was reported with the treatment, and a few gastrointestinal complications were reported.

CONCLUSION

The study demonstrated that oral collagen peptides could significantly improve the skin elasticity, roughness, and dermis echo density, and they also proved to be safe and well-tolerated.

Skin antiaging effects of a multiple mechanisms hyaluronan complex

OBJECTIVE

Intrinsic skin aging is an inevitable process with reduced extracellular matrix deposition and impaired mechanical integrity in the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). Hyaluronan is one of the most promising natural ingredients. In this research, multiple mechanisms of a novel hyaluronan complex against intrinsic skin aging were revealed.

METHOD

Immunohistochemical analysis and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay were employed to evaluate the effect of low-molecular weight sodium hyaluronan, its acetylated derivative and HA complex on expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and type I collagen in normal human fibroblasts. Then, immunohistochemical analysis and hematoxylin and eosin staining was carried out to evaluate identical effects of HA complex in reconstructed skin equivalents, as well as its benefits on histological structure and DEJ.

RESULT

In normal human dermal fibroblasts, the hyaluronan complex, which contains low-molecular weight sodium hyaluronate and its acetylated derivative, has synergistic effects by increasing type I collagen expression. At the same time, MMP-1 production was inhibited. This was confirmed in subsequent experiments with skin equivalent, and intriguingly, the hyaluronan complex was also found to increase the expression of two DEJ proteins.

CONCLUSION

The multimechanism hyaluronan complex in this proof-of-concept study exhibited skin antiaging effects in vitro through inhibiting the expression of MMP-1 and enhancing type I collagen accumulation and the expression of DEJ proteins, which reveals new avenues for investigating more biological activities of various types of hyaluronan.

Skin aging from mechanisms to interventions: focusing on dermal aging

Skin aging is a multifaceted process that involves intrinsic and extrinsic mechanisms that lead to various structural and physiological changes in the skin. Intrinsic aging is associated with programmed aging and cellular senescence, which are caused by endogenous oxidative stress and cellular damage. Extrinsic aging is the result of environmental factors, such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation and pollution, and leads to the production of reactive oxygen species, ultimately causing DNA damage and cellular dysfunction. In aged skin, senescent cells accumulate and contribute to the degradation of the extracellular matrix, which further contributes to the aging process. To combat the symptoms of aging, various topical agents and clinical procedures such as chemical peels, injectables, and energy-based devices have been developed. These procedures address different symptoms of aging, but to devise an effective anti-aging treatment protocol, it is essential to thoroughly understand the mechanisms of skin aging. This review provides an overview of the mechanisms of skin aging and their significance in the development of anti-aging treatments.

Effects of cadmium and diethylhexyl phthalate on skin microbiota of Rana chinensis tadpoles

Skin microbiotas play a crucial role in the health, homeostasis, and immune function of amphibians. The contaminants in water could affect the structure and composition of microbial communities. The effects of coexisting pollutants on frogs cannot be adequately explained by a single exposure due to the coexistence of Cd and DEHP in the environment. Following exposure to Cd and/or DEHP, we examined the histological characteristics of Rana chensinensis tadpoles. We also used the 16S rRNA gene sequencing technique to assess the relative abundance of skin microbial communities among tadpoles from each treatment group. Our findings indicate that R. chensinensis' skin experienced some degree of injury due to exposure to Cd and DEHP, which led to the imbalance of their skin microbial community homeostasis and thus interfered with the normal trial status of the host. That may eventually lead to the decline of the amphibian population.

Multiparametric Quantitative Analysis of Photodamage to Skin Using Optical Coherence Tomography

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation causes 90% of photodamage to skin and long-term exposure to UV irradiation is the largest threat to skin health. To study the mechanism of UV-induced photodamage and the repair of sunburnt skin, the key problem to solve is how to non-destructively and continuously evaluate UV-induced photodamage to skin. In this study, a method to quantitatively analyze the structural and tissue optical parameters of artificial skin (AS) using optical coherence tomography (OCT) was proposed as a way to non-destructively and continuously evaluate the effect of photodamage. AS surface roughness was achieved based on the characteristic peaks of the intensity signal of the OCT images, and this was the basis for quantifying AS cuticle thickness using Dijkstra's algorithm. Local texture features within the AS were obtained through the gray-level co-occurrence matrix method. A modified depth-resolved algorithm was used to quantify the 3D scattering coefficient distribution within AS based on a single-scattering model. A multiparameter assessment of AS photodamage was carried out, and the results were compared with the MTT experiment results and H&E staining. The results of the UV photodamage experiments showed that the cuticle of the photodamaged model was thicker (56.5%) and had greater surface roughness (14.4%) compared with the normal cultured AS. The angular second moment was greater and the correlation was smaller, which was in agreement with the results of the H&E staining microscopy. The angular second moment and correlation showed a good linear relationship with the UV irradiation dose, illustrating the potential of OCT in measuring internal structural damage. The tissue scattering coefficient of AS correlated well with the MTT results, which can be used to quantify the damage to the bioactivity. The experimental results also demonstrate the anti-photodamage efficacy of the vitamin C factor. Quantitative analysis of structural and tissue optical parameters of AS by OCT enables the non-destructive and continuous detection of AS photodamage in multiple dimensions.

Marine Natural Products as Innovative Cosmetic Ingredients

Over the course of the last 20 years, numerous studies have identified the benefits of an array of marine natural ingredients for cosmetic purposes, as they present unique characteristics not found in terrestrial organisms. Consequently, several marine-based ingredients and bioactive compounds are under development, used or considered for skin care and cosmetics. Despite the multitude of cosmetics based on marine sources, only a small proportion of their full potential has been exploited. Many cosmetic industries have turned their attention to the sea to obtain innovative marine-derived compounds for cosmetics, but further research is needed to determine and elucidate the benefits. This review gathers information on the main biological targets for cosmetic ingredients, different classes of marine natural products of interest for cosmetic applications, and the organisms from which such products can be sourced. Although organisms from different phyla present different and varied bioactivities, the algae phylum seems to be the most promising for cosmetic applications, presenting compounds of many classes. In fact, some of these compounds present higher bioactivities than their commercialized counterparts, demonstrating the potential presented by marine-derived compounds for cosmetic applications (i.e., Mycosporine-like amino acids and terpenoids’ antioxidant activity). This review also summarizes the major challenges and opportunities faced by marine-derived cosmetic ingredients to successfully reach the market. As a future perspective, we consider that fruitful cooperation among academics and cosmetic industries could lead to a more sustainable market through responsible sourcing of ingredients, implementing ecological manufacturing processes, and experimenting with inventive recycling and reuse programs.

Effects of probiotics supplementation on skin photoaging and skin barrier function: A systematic review and meta-analysis

BACKGROUND

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation is one of the major causes of skin aging. To date, there remains limited evidence on using oral probiotics for skin anti-photoaging.

OBJECTIVES

This systematic review and meta-analysis aims to assess the effects of probiotics on skin photoaging.

METHODS

We searched the PubMed and Embase databases for studies published until August 31, 2021, and included randomized controlled trials, murine randomized controlled experiments, and in vitro studies. Skin barrier function was compared between UV irradiated probiotics and controls.

RESULTS

After given oral probiotics supplements, a significant reduction was shown in all types of measured MMPs in both murine and in vitro studies. Oral probiotics supplementation significantly reversed UV-induced increase of epidermal thickness (standardized mean differences [SMD] = -1.76; 95% confidence interval [CI] = -3.04 to -0.49; p = .007; I²  = 81%), UV-induced increase trans-epidermal water loss (SMD = -1.72; 95% CI = -2.76 to -0.67; p = .001; I²  = 57%), and UV-induced skin dehydration (SMD = 1.85; 95% CI = 1.16 to 2.55; p < .00001; I²  = 4%).

CONCLUSIONS

Probiotics are effective against skin photoaging in terms of MMP pathways and reversing skin barrier function from murine randomized data. Further randomized controlled trials on humans are required to warrant these results.

Prediction and association analyses of skin phenotypes in Japanese females using genetic, environmental, and physical features

BACKGROUND

Skin characteristics show great variation from person to person and are affected by multiple factors, including genetic, environmental, and physical factors, but details of the involvement and contributions of these factors remain unclear.

OBJECTIVES

We aimed to characterize genetic, environmental, and physical factors affecting 16 skin features by developing models to predict personal skin characteristics.

METHODS

We analyzed the associations of skin phenotypes with genetic, environmental, and physical features in 1472 Japanese females aged 20-80 years. We focused on 16 skin characteristics, including melanin, brightness/lightness, yellowness, pigmented spots, wrinkles, resilience, moisture, barrier function, texture, and sebum amount. As genetic factors, we selected 74 single-nucleotide polymorphisms of genes related to skin color, vitamin level, hormones, circulation, extracellular matrix (ECM) components and ECM-degrading enzymes, inflammation, and antioxidants. Histories of ultraviolet (UV) exposure and smoking as environmental factors and age, height, and weight as physical factors were acquired by means of a questionnaire.

RESULTS

A linear association with age was prominent for increase in the area of crow's feet, increase in number of pigmented spots, decrease in forehead sebum, and increase in VISIA wrinkle parameters. Associations were analyzed by constructing linear regression models for skin feature changes and logistic regression models to predict whether subjects show lower or higher skin measurement values in the same age groups. Multiple genetic factors, history of UV exposure and smoking, and body mass index were statistically selected for each skin characteristic. The most important association found for skin spots, such as lentigines and wrinkles, was adolescent sun exposure.

CONCLUSION

Genetic, environmental, and physical factors associated with interindividual differences of the selected skin features were identified. The developed models should be useful to predict the skin characteristics of individuals and their age-related changes.

Design and Evaluation of Complex Polypeptide-Loaded Dissolving Microneedles for Improving Facial Wrinkles in Different Areas

Wrinkles are one of the most intuitive manifestations of skin aging. Complex polypeptide-loaded dissolving microneedles (CP-DMNs) for facial wrinkles in different areas have been developed and evaluated for the first time. In optimizing formulations, we compared the differences in CP-DMNs heights on skin insertion depth and skin repair and healing. Furthermore, systemic safety experiments were carried out to provide a reference for clinical application. On this basis, an 84-day efficacy assessment based on the improvement of facial wrinkles in different areas and a comparison between CP-DMNs vs. placebo was performed on 30 healthy subjects. As a result, DMNs with a height of 300 μm presented sufficient strength to pierce the stratum corneum with minimized skin damage. In addition, CP-DMNs possessed excellent biological safety and skin compatibility for clinical application. Compared with placebo, CP-DMNs exhibited obvious improvements in wrinkles distributed in the corners of eyes, under-eyes, and nasolabial folds. Furthermore, after using CP-DMNs for 84 days, facial wrinkles in five different areas were smoothed. In short, the complex polypeptides showed apparent anti-wrinkle efficacy with the aid of DMNs technology, and CP-DMNs seemed to work better on deeper wrinkles, such as frown lines and nasolabial folds.

Synergistic effect of microneedle-delivered extracellular matrix compound and radiofrequency on rejuvenation of periorbital wrinkles

Background

A combination of minimally invasive modalities can induce collagen regeneration more quickly and promote the penetration of topical agents, thus promoting skin rejuvenation. In this study, we aimed to investigate the synergistic efficacy of extracellular matrix compound (ECM-C) via microneedle (MN) and radiofrequency (RF) on periorbital wrinkles.

Method

A total of 25 participants with periorbital wrinkles were selected for this study. The left and right side of the periorbital area was randomly given ECM-C via MN or ECM-C via MN combined with RF. MN combined with ECM-C treatment was given 5 times at 2 weeks intervals, whereas RF treatment was given 3 times at 4-week intervals. The following items were assessed: wrinkles by VISIA^® system; biophysical parameters such as skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema index, and melanin index by CK multiple probe adapter; and skin elasticity and skin thickness by DermaLab Combo^® photographs were taken at the baseline and 2 weeks after the last treatment. Subjective assessments, such as Crow's Feet Grading Scale (CFGS) and Global Aesthetic International Scale (GAIS), were also recorded.

Result

A total of 25 participants with an average age of 43 years participated in this trial. Periorbital wrinkles on both sides decreased after the treatment, and the side treated with ECM via MN and RF showed better improvement than the other side with ECM-C via MN alone. Skin hydration increased after the treatment on both sides. TEWL, skin erythema, and skin melanin indexes were not changed. Skin elasticity and skin thickness increased more on the side of ECM-C via MN and RF than on the other side of ECM-C via MN alone. The evaluation scores for CFGS improved on either side; however, no difference was found for CFGS and GAIS between intergroup comparisons after the treatment.

Conclusion

The objective assessment of wrinkles, elasticity, and thickness of periorbital skin improved more on the side with ECM-C treatment via MN combined with RF than on the other side of ECM-C treatment via MN only. However, no statistically significant difference was found between the subjective CFGS and GAIS evaluation of the two sides.

Structural and Functional age-related changes in some facial signs of Chinese men. A Pilot study

OBJECTIVE

To associate, on the same Chinese male subjects, changes in facial aging signs with some biomechanical skin properties.

METHODS

The severities of 20 facial aging signs of 219 differently aged Chinese men (20-65y) were graded in blind by trained experts through standardized photographs, using a referential skin Atlas dedicated to Asian men. On each subject, the mechanical properties were assessed on the cheek area (left or right at random) by the validated suction technique Cutometer®. Finally, the skin color parameters were assessed on images from VISIA-CR device.

RESULTS

Clinically speaking, the severity of almost all facial aging signs increases from 30y to 65y, in a linear like progression, whereas the 20-30y shows weak increases. Skin color shows slight but progressive decreases in Luminance and ITA, whereas the yellow and red components slightly increased between 40y and 65y. At the exception of skin firmness, the skin mechanical properties show a clear decline during the 30-50y period and plateau beyond.

CONCLUSION

The present study suggests that the 20-30y period, albeit more clinically "silent" than the other periods of age, seems to be an age-range during which early alterations of some dermal elements' onset. Deeper in vivo investigating techniques (Echography, Multiphotonic microscopy) are needed to confirm such hypothesis.

Newborn and elderly skin: two fragile skins at higher risk of pressure injury

Skin is a key organ maintaining internal homeostasis by performing many functions such as water loss prevention, body temperature regulation and protection from noxious substance absorption, microorganism intrusion and physical trauma. Skin ageing has been well studied and it is well known that physiological changes in the elderly result in higher skin fragility favouring the onset of skin diseases. For example, prolonged and/or high-intensity pressure may suppress local blood flow more easily, disturbing cell metabolism and inducing pressure injury (PI) formation. Pressure injuries (PIs) represent a significant problem worldwide and their prevalence remains too high. A higher PI prevalence is correlated with an elderly population. Newborn skin evolution has been less studied, but some data also report a higher PI prevalence in this population compared to older children, and several authors also consider this skin as physiologically fragile. In this review, we compare the characteristics of newborn and elderly skin in order to determine common features that may explain their fragility, especially regarding PI risk. We show that, despite differences in appearance, they share many common features leading to higher fragility to shear and pressure forces, not only at the structural level but also at the cellular and molecular level and in terms of physiology. Both newborn and elderly skin have: (i) a thinner epidermis; (ii) a thinner dermis containing a less-resistant collagen network, a higher collagen III:collagen I ratio and less elastin; (iii) a flatter dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) with lower anchoring systems; and (iv) a thinner hypodermis, resulting in lower mechanical resistance to skin damage when pressure or shear forces are applied. At the molecular level, reduced expression of transforming growth factor β (TGFβ) and its receptor TGFβ receptor II (TβRII) is involved in the decreased production and/or increased degradation of various dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) components. Epidermal fragility also involves a higher skin pH which decreases the activity of key enzymes inducing ceramide deficiency and reduced barrier protection. This seems to be correlated with higher PI prevalence in some situations. Some data also suggest that stratum corneum (SC) dryness, which may disturb cell metabolism, also increases the risk of PI formation. Besides this structural fragility, several skin functions are also less efficient. Low applied pressures induce skin vessel vasodilation via a mechanism called pressure-induced vasodilation (PIV). Individuals lacking a normal PIV response show an early decrease in cutaneous blood flow in response to the application of very low pressures, reflecting vascular fragility of the skin that increases the risk of ulceration. Due to changes in endothelial function, skin PIV ability decreases during skin ageing, putting it at higher risk of PI formation. In newborns, some data lead us to hypothesize that the nitric oxide (NO) pathway is not fully functional at birth, which may partly explain the higher risk of PI formation in newborns. In the elderly, a lower PIV ability results from impaired functionality of skin innervation, in particular that of C-fibres which are involved in both touch and pain sensation and the PIV mechanism. In newborns, skin sensitivity differs from adults due to nerve system immaturity, but the role of this in PIV remains to be determined.

Protective Effect of Fat-Tissue-Derived Products against Ultraviolet Irradiation-Induced Photoaging in Mouse Skin

BACKGROUND

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation causes erythema, inflammation, and photoaging. Mechanical micronization of adipose tissue can concentrate functional cells and has great potential as an alternative for regenerative medicine. Stromal vascular fraction gel is produced by means of a series of mechanical processes of lipoaspirates and can be injected intradermally. This study aimed to assess the therapeutic effect of stromal vascular fraction gel on photoaging skin.

METHODS

A photoaging model was established in nude mice. Photoaging mice received treatments of stromal vascular fraction gel, fat, tretinoin, or phosphate-buffered saline. Photoaging skin was characterized by histologic and immunohistochemical analyses. Expression of collagen synthesis-related or photoaging-related genes was assessed.

RESULTS

Stromal vascular fraction gel, fat, and tretinoin reversed photoaging, whereas stromal vascular fraction gel demonstrated the greatest therapeutic effect. Treatment with stromal vascular fraction gel restored intradermal fat tissue content and increased dermal collagen density. Injection of stromal vascular fraction gel had the strongest effect on stimulating fibroblasts and increasing the expression of transforming growth factor β1 (TGF-β1), propeptide of type-I procollagen, and Smad 2, decreasing the expression of Smad 3, compared with fat and tretinoin. Expression of photoaging-related genes was significantly reduced, whereas expression of fibulin-5 was significantly increased after stromal vascular fraction gel treatment.

CONCLUSIONS

Stromal vascular fraction gel demonstrated remarkable therapeutic effects in reversing photoaging skin. Stromal vascular fraction gel can be injected intradermally and survive within dermal layer after grafting. This product increased TGF-β1expression and activated fibroblasts to produce propeptide of type I procollagen, thus increasing the amount of collagen I, leading to thickening of the dermis of photoaging skin.

Structural and Functional Changes and Possible Molecular Mechanisms in Aged Skin

Skin aging is a complex process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Together, these factors affect the structure and function of the epidermis and dermis. Histologically, aging skin typically shows epidermal atrophy due to decreased cell numbers. The dermis of aged skin shows decreased numbers of mast cells and fibroblasts. Fibroblast senescence contributes to skin aging by secreting a senescence-associated secretory phenotype, which decreases proliferation by impairing the release of essential growth factors and enhancing degradation of the extracellular matrix through activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Several molecular mechanisms affect skin aging including telomere shortening, oxidative stress and MMP, cytokines, autophagic control, microRNAs, and the microbiome. Accumulating evidence on the molecular mechanisms of skin aging has provided clinicians with a wide range of therapeutic targets for treating aging skin.

Role of collagen degradation pathway in sphingomyelin synthase 2-deficient mouse skin

Background

Sphingomyelin synthase (SMS) is the only enzyme that synthesizes sphingomyelin from ceramide. The role of sphingomyelin synthase in epidermis is being understood, but there is no report on its role in the dermis. Quantitative and qualitative evaluation of collagen in SMS2-deficient mice reveals the role of SMS2 in collagen production.

Methods

SMS2-deficient mice were used for in this study. The dermis thickness was measured by Elastica van Gieson staining, the collagen fiber was observed by Scanning Electron Microscopy, the collagen content by ELISA, the ceramide and sphingomyelin content by Thin Layer Chromatography, the collagen-generating and metabolizing gene expression level by RT-PCR, and MMP13 protein level was measured by western blotting.

Results

Thinner dermis in these mice compared to wild-type mice. A reduced number of collagen fibers were observed, and decreased levels of type I collagen and sphingolipids. Gene expression levels of collagen production-related genes in the dermis were found to be unaltered. The expression of several genes related to collagen degradation was found to be affected. The expression level of TNFα and MMP13 and MMP13 protein levels were increased relative to those of wild-type mice, while the expression level of TIMP1 was decreased.

Conclusions

These results indicate that SMS is involved not only in maintaining the sphingolipid content of the epidermal barrier but also in maintaining collagen homeostasis. Further elucidation of the role of SMS2 in the skin may lead to SMS2 comprising a new target for the treatment of skin diseases and the development of functional cosmetics.

Taxifolin as a Promising Ingredient of Cosmetics for Adult Skin

Active substances, effective in the reduction in or delay of skin changes caused by aging occurring in natural compounds, are desirable. Taxifolin (TXF), a flavonoid of strong antioxidant activity found in the plant Stizolophus balsamita (S. balsamita), has been tested for its biological effects on adult human skin. The aim of the study was to investigate the effects of two creams: 3% S. balsamita extract and 3% TXF on the function of adult skin. In total, 97 Caucasian women with clinical signs of skin aging were investigated. The biophysical and biomechanical skin parameters were measured before and after applying the creams, using Colorimeter CL400, Mexameter MX16, Skin-pH-Meter PH900, Skin-Thermometer ST 500, Glossymeter GL200, and Cutiscan SC100. Patch tests were performed with the investigated products to assess their potential irritant properties. The percutaneous penetration of creams was examined with the use of electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ESI-MS) and confocal Raman spectroscopy. The 3% S. balsamita extract cream reduced hyperpigmentation, erythema, and elevated pH. All the tested preparations were proven to be nonirritant. A higher penetration rate was revealed for the 3% TXF cream than for the 3% S. balsamita extract cream. A total of 3% TXF cream improved skin viscoelasticity. The obtained results suggested that S. balsamita extract and TXF may be considered as ingredients of skincare products for adults.

Anti-damage effect of theaflavin-3'-gallate from black tea on UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells by photoprotection and maintaining cell homeostasis

Keratinocytes are rich in lipids and are the main sensitive cells to ultraviolet (UV) rays. Theaflavins are the core functional components of black tea and are known as the "soft gold" in tea. In this study, ultraviolet-B (UVB) irradiation caused apoptosis and necrosis of human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT). EGCG and the four theaflavins had anti-UVB damage activity, among which theaflavin-3'-gallate (TF3'G) had the best activity. The results of biophysical and molecular biology experiments showed that TF3'G has anti-damage effects on UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells through the dual effects of photoprotection and maintenance of cell homeostasis. That is, TF3'G preincubation could absorb UV rays, reduce the accumulation of aging-related heterochromatin (SAHF) formation, increase mitochondrial membrane potential, downregulate NF-κB inflammation pathways, inhibit the formation of cytotoxic aggregates, and protect biological macromolecules Structure, etc. The accumulation of conjugated π bonds and the balance benzoquinone are the core functional structure of TF3'G with high efficiency and low toxicity. The study indicates that TF3'G has the potential to inhibit the photoaging and intrinsic aging of skin cells.

Clinical and biological impact of the exposome on the skin

The skin exposome is defined as the totality of environmental exposures over the life course that can induce or modify various skin conditions. Here, we review the impact on the skin of solar exposure, air pollution, hormones, nutrition and psychological factors. Photoageing, photocarcinogenesis and pigmentary changes are well-established consequences of chronic exposure of the skin to solar radiation. Exposure to traffic-related air pollution contributes to skin ageing. Particulate matter and nitrogen dioxide cause skin pigmentation/lentigines, while ozone causes wrinkles and has an impact on atopic eczema. Human skin is a major target of hormones, and they exhibit a wide range of biological activities on the skin. Hormones decline with advancing age influencing skin ageing. Nutrition has an impact on numerous biochemical processes, including oxidation, inflammation and glycation, which may result in clinical effects, including modification of the course of skin ageing and photoageing. Stress and lack of sleep are known to contribute to a pro-inflammatory state, which, in turn, affects the integrity of extracellular matrix proteins, in particular collagen. Hormone dysregulation, malnutrition and stress may contribute to inflammatory skin disorders, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne and rosacea.

Basement Membrane Helps Maintain Epidermal Hyaluronan Content

Hyaluronan (HA) is the major glycosaminoglycan in the extracellular matrix of most mammalian tissues, including the epidermis. It is synthesized in epidermis, and mainly metabolized after transfer to the liver via lymphatic vessels in the dermis following its passage through the basement membrane (BM) at the dermal-epidermal junction. The aim of the present study was to investigate the influence of BM integrity on the level of HA in the epidermis. Epidermal HA content was decreased in sun-exposed skin of older subjects, whose BM structure was impaired, compared with sun-exposed young skin and sun-protected skin, in which BM integrity was well maintained. In an organotypic culture model of sun-exposed facial skin, epidermal HA was increased in the presence of inhibitors of BM-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and heparanase. In a skin equivalent model treated with these inhibitors, HA content was increased in the epidermis, but decreased in conditioned medium. These findings suggest that the BM at the dermal-epidermal junction plays an important role in maintaining epidermal HA levels.

The dark side of daylight: photoaging and the tumor microenvironment in melanoma progression

Continued thinning of the atmospheric ozone, which protects the earth from damaging ultraviolet radiation (UVR), will result in elevated levels of UVR reaching the earth's surface, leading to a drastic increase in the incidence of skin cancer. In addition to promoting carcinogenesis in skin cells, UVR is a potent extrinsic driver of age-related changes in the skin known as "photoaging." We are in the preliminary stages of understanding of the role of intrinsic aging in melanoma, and the tumor-permissive effects of photoaging on the skin microenvironment remain largely unexplored. In this Review, we provide an overview of the impact of UVR on the skin microenvironment, addressing changes that converge or diverge with those observed in intrinsic aging. Intrinsic and extrinsic aging promote phenotypic changes to skin cell populations that alter fundamental processes such as melanogenesis, extracellular matrix deposition, inflammation, and immune response. Given the relevance of these processes in cancer, we discuss how photoaging might render the skin microenvironment permissive to melanoma progression.

Rapamycin Protects Skin Fibroblasts From UVA-Induced Photoaging by Inhibition of p53 and Phosphorylated HSP27

Skin aging caused by UV radiation is called photoaging is characterized by skin roughness and dryness accompanied by a significant reduction of dermal collagen. Rapamycin is a macrolide immunosuppressant which has been shown to exhibit “anti-aging” effects in cells and organisms, however, its roles in the skin photoaging remains unclear. Here, we investigate the role of rapamycin and HSP27, which we have previously identified as an inhibitor of UV-induced apoptosis and senescence in HaCat cells, in a UVA-induced photoaging model of primary human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). Results from senescence-associated beta-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) staining revealed that rapamycin significantly reduced senescence in UVA-treated HDFs. In addition, treatment with rapamycin significantly increased cell autophagy levels, decreased the expression of p53 and phosphorylated HSP27, and reduced genotoxic and oxidative cellular stress levels in UVA-induced HDFs. Knockdown of HSP27 resulted in a significant increase of MMP-1 and MMP-3 as well as a decrease in type I collagen expression. Rapamycin mitigated these effects by activation of the classical TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway and increasing the transcriptional activity of MAPK/AP-1. Taken together, these results suggest that rapamycin may potentially serve as a preventive and therapeutic agent for UVA-induced photoaging of the skin.

Depth-resolved investigation of multiple optical properties and wrinkle morphology in eye-corner areas with multi-contrast Jones matrix optical coherence tomography

BACKGROUND

Multi-contrast Jones matrix optical coherence tomography (JM-OCT) can provide quantitative depth-resolved local optical properties by improving the measurement algorithm.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We examined the relationship between depth-resolved local optical properties of eye-corner skin measured by JM-OCT and corresponding wrinkle morphology of aged women (n = 21; age range, 71.7 ± 1.7 years). Wrinkle morphology was analyzed by measuring the surface topography of three-dimensional replicas. The same regions were measured three-dimensionally by JM-OCT, and the local optical properties at each depth were computed.

RESULTS

Birefringence (BR) and mean wrinkle depth correlated significantly at a depth of 88.2-138.6 µm from the skin surface, and attenuation coefficient (AC) and mean wrinkle depth correlated significantly at a depth of 12.6-18.9 µm and 189-459.9 μm from the skin surface, although a degree of polarization uniformity (DOPU) did not. Stepwise multiple regression analysis demonstrated that a significant regression equation (R²  = 0.649, P < .001) for predicting mean wrinkle depth was determined by BR at 107.1 µm depth (BR _{107.1 µm} ), DOPU at 170.1 µm (DOPU _170.1µm ), and AC at 252 µm (AC _{252 µm} ) as independent variables and that these standardized beta regression coefficients were -0.860, -0.593, and -0.440, respectively, suggesting that BR, DOPU, and AC sufficiently explained mean wrinkle depth.

CONCLUSION

These results suggest that BR _{107.1 µm} , DOPU _{170.1 µm,} and AC _{252 µm} may indicate collagen-related structure in the papillary, upper-reticular dermis, and microstructure or tissue density in reticular dermis, respectively, and may be involved in wrinkle formation.

Basic analysis of facial ageing: The relationship between the superficial musculoaponeurotic system and age

BACKGROUND

The superficial musculoaponeurotic system (SMAS) is an anatomical structure involved in the facial ageing process. We aimed to evaluate the SMAS laxity using multi-detector row computed tomography (MDCT) as a diagnostic tool, and to analyse the relationship between SMAS laxity and age.

METHODS

Fifty-seven female subjects (aged 21-57 years) were enrolled in the study. The subjects were divided into two age groups: one below the mean age (Group Y, 30 subjects) and one over it (Group O, 27 subjects). The Posture Change (PC)-induced SMAS Laxity Index was measured using reconstructed CT images, and the relationship between the PC-induced SMAS Laxity Index and age was analysed.

RESULTS

The PC-induced SMAS Laxity Index was significantly larger in Group O than in Group Y. As well, a strong and significant positive correlation was detected between the PC-induced SMAS Laxity Index and age (r = 0.72; P < 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

The use of MDCT provides insight into the detailed changes associated with ageing that take place within the cheeks. This study objectively demonstrated that SMAS laxity and age are factors associated with facial ageing, as the SMAS laxity increased with age. Finally, the imaging features confirmed the dermatological and aesthetic knowledge gained from plastic surgery regarding the loss of the SMAS supporting force due to facial ageing.

Matrisome Provides a Supportive Microenvironment for Skin Functions of Diverse Species

A biomaterial scaffold is a promising tool employed to drive tissue regeneration. This technology has been successfully applied in human tissue rebuilding, particularly for the skin. Meanwhile, there is still room for further improvement, such as maintaining sufficient functionality of a biomaterial scaffold. Here, we developed a new decellularization method to generate a complete anatomical skin biomatrix scaffold with a preserved extracellular matrix (ECM) architecture. We performed proteomic and bioinformatic analyses of the skin scaffold maps of humans, pigs, and rats and systematically analyzed the interaction between ECM proteins and different cell types in the skin microenvironment. These interactions served to quantify the structure and function of the skin's Matrisome comprising core ECM components and ECM-associated soluble signaling molecules required for the regulation of epidermal development. We primarily found that the properties of the skin ECM were species-specific. For example, the composition and function of the ECM of the human skin were more similar to those of pigs compared with those of rats. However, the skin ECM of the pig was significantly deficient in its enzyme systems and immune regulatory factors compared with that of humans. These findings provide a new understanding of the role of the skin ECM niche as well as an attractive strategy that can apply tissue engineering principles to skin biomatrix scaffold materials, which promises to accelerate and enhance tissue regeneration.

Pharmacological and Cosmeceutical Potential of Seaweed Beach-Casts of Macaronesia

Seaweed beach-casts are a seasonal phenomenon that regularly deposits tons of algae biomass on beaches, which are usually disposed of in landfills. The present work aimed to contribute to the valorization of this biomass by studying bioactivities that reveal its potential in the pharmaceutical and/or cosmeceutical industries. Methanol and ethanol extracts and fractions from 15 beach-casts biomass were tested for a range of bioactivities. Eight of the most active samples exhibit IC50 values between 11.38 µg/mL and 19.28 µg/mL and selectivity indexes higher than 3.8, against NCI-H1299 (lung cancer) and T47D (breast cancer). Concerning antiaging potential, all the extracts tested presented UV protection, with SPF values above 30, like the standard sunscreen. Regarding aging-related enzymes, 24 samples were tyrosinase inhibitors exhibiting IC50 values from 9.01 µg/mL to 200.09 µg/mL. Eight extracts inhibited collagenase (IC50 < 248.76 µg/mL), two of them more actively than positive control EDTA (IC50 = 59.26 µg/mL). In addition to UV protection, the cumulative effect of antityrosinase and anticollagenase activities shown by the samples suggest that they may play a significant role in preventing skin photoaging. The results obtained demonstrate the high potential of beach-cast seaweed biomass as sources of cosmetic bioproducts with antiaging effects, and of selective cytotoxic metabolites.

Histological investigation of picosecond laser-toning and fractional laser therapy

Background and Aims

Rejuvenation therapy using picosecond pulse laser and picosecond pulsed fractional therapy with a fractional lens have been performed with clinical effects evaluated. However, no histological analysis of effects on photoaged skin exists. In this study, influence of laser-toning and fractional therapy using picosecond pulse laser on photoaging was histologically investigated.

Subjects and Methods

The flexor side forearm of a male, age 61, with photoaging was divided into three 20 cm² areas and irradiated with approximately 400 shots of 10-Hz laser, 8 mm spot size, and nine passes at an output of 0.7, 0.9, and 1.1 J/cm² using picosecond laser-toning therapy six times, every two weeks. Two weeks post final irradiation, 2 mm punch biopsies were taken from the irradiation fields. Fractional therapy using Micro Lens Array (MLA) attached picosecond fractional therapy was applied to the medial crural skin with marked photoaging of a male, age 63. Irradiation was applied at 0.5 and 0.7 J/cm² through two passes, with 3 mm punch biopsies taken from each irradiation field immediately after and again two months post-irradiation. Samples were subjected to hematoxylin and eosin (HE) and Elastica van Gieson staining and compared.

Results

In the picosecond laser-toning therapy sample, photoaging-induced dermis reconstruction occurred. The picosecond fractional therapy sample showed both epidermis and dermis reconstruction, with intrinsic aging and photoaging improvements.

Conclusions

Recovery of dermal and epidermal age related atrophy by picosecond laser-toning and picosecond fractional therapy was histologically confirmed. Picosecond fractional therapy demonstrated superior improvement.

A type IV collagenase inhibitor, N-hydroxy-3-phenyl-2-(4-phenylbenzenesulfonamido) propanamide (BiPS), suppresses skin injury induced by sulfur mustard

Sulfur mustard (SM) is a highly toxic blistering agent thought to mediate its action, in part, by activating matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) in the skin and disrupting components of the basement membrane zone (BMZ). Type IV collagenases (MMP-9) degrade type IV collagen in the skin, a major component of the BMZ at the dermal-epidermal junction. In the present studies, a type IV collagenase inhibitor, N-hydroxy-3-phenyl-2-(4-phenylbenzenesulfonamido) propanamide (BiPS), was tested for its ability to protect the skin against injury induced by SM in the mouse ear vesicant model. SM induced inflammation, epidermal hyperplasia and microblistering at the dermal/epidermal junction of mouse ears 24-168 h post-exposure. This was associated with upregulation of MMP-9 mRNA and protein in the skin. Dual immunofluorescence labeling showed increases in MMP-9 in the epidermis and in the adjacent dermal matrix of the SM injured skin, as well as breakdown of type IV collagen in the basement membrane. Pretreatment of the skin with BiPS reduced signs of SM-induced cutaneous toxicity; expression of MMP-9 mRNA and protein was also downregulated in the skin by BiPS. Following BiPS pretreatment, type IV collagen appeared intact and was similar to control skin. These results demonstrate that inhibiting type IV collagenases in the skin improves basement membrane integrity after exposure to SM. BiPS may hold promise as a potential protective agent to mitigate SM induced skin injury.

Effects of solvent and micellar encapsulation on the photostability of avobenzone

Avobenzone, the only UVA-absorbing molecule approved for use in sunscreens by the FDA, degrades to its diketone structure under UV light. We found that this photoisomerization is effectively prevented when avobenzone is sequestered in micelles.

Anti-Wrinkle Benefits of Peptides Complex Stimulating Skin Basement Membrane Proteins Expression

The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) provides a physical and biological interface between the epidermis and the dermis. In addition to providing a structural integrity, the DEJ also acts as a passageway for molecular transport. Based on the recently reported importance of the DEJ in skin aging, novel peptide derivatives have been tested for their effects on basement membrane (BM) protein expressions in cultured human epidermal keratinocytes. As a result, protein expressions of collagen XVII, laminin and nidogen were stimulated by the test peptide and peptides complex. Further ex vivo evaluation using excised human skin, confirmed that the topical application of the peptides complex significantly increased dermal collagen expression, as well as expressions of collagen XVII and laminin. Interestingly, while the origin of the laminin protein is epidermal keratinocytes, the immunohistochemical staining of skin showed that laminin was only detected in the uppermost layer of the dermis, which suggests a tight assembly of laminin protein onto the dermal side of the DEJ. These results suggest that a peptide complex could improve the structural properties of the DEJ through its ability to stimulate BM proteins. In order to evaluate the anti-wrinkle benefits of the peptide complex in vivo, a clinical study was performed on 22 healthy Asian female volunteers older than 40 years. As a result, significant improvements in skin wrinkles for all of the five sites were observed after two weeks, as assessed by skin topographic measurements. Collectively, these results demonstrate the anti-aging efficacy of the peptides complex.

The Effects of a Novel Series of KTTKS Analogues on Cytotoxicity and Proteolytic Activity

KTTKS is a matrikine that originates from the proteolytic hydrolysis of collagen. This peptide stimulates ECM production and types I and III collagen expression in vitro. A more stable form of KTTKS is pal-KTTKS, known as Matrixyl^® or palmitoyl pentapeptide-3. A series of novel pentapeptides, analogues of KTTKS with the general formula X-KTTKS-OH(NH₂), where X = acetyl, lipoyl, palmitoyl residues, was designed and synthesized. Their effect on amidolytic activity of urokinase, thrombin, trypsin, plasmin, t-PA, and kallikrein were tested. Cytotoxic tests on fibroblasts, as well as collagen and DNA biosynthesis tests for selected peptides, were also carried out. The test results showed that the most active plasmin inhibitors were palmitoyl peptides, whether in acid or amide form. No biological effects of lysine modification to arginine in the synthesized peptides were found. None of the synthesized peptides was not cytotoxic on fibroblasts, and three of them showed cell growth. These three compounds showed no concentration-activity relationship in the collagen and DNA biosynthesis assays.

Expression and ultrastructural localization of plasmin(ogen) in the terminally differentiated layers of normal human epidermis

Objective

Plasmin, a relatively unspecific trypsin‐like serine protease, is involved in many physiological and pathological conditions, particularly in dermatoses with barrier impairment. It is secreted as the inactive zymogen plasminogen and is activated to plasmin by plasminogen activators, such as urokinase. There still exists a paucity of data on the precise localization of epidermal plasmin(ogen) within the epidermis and the stratum corneum. The aim of the present study was to get information about its origin and ultrastructural localization within normal human epidermis.

Method

We performed immunoelectron transmission electron microscopy immunogold labelling in normal abdominal human skin.

Result

Plasmin was only observed in the terminally differentiated cell layers of the epidermis and was largely associated with the corneocyte envelopes and to some extent with the intercellular lipid matrix in the stratum corneum.

Conclusion

Our results indicate that in normal human skin, plasmin(ogen) is synthesized by differentiated epidermal keratinocytes of the stratum granulosum and is not serum‐born.

Effects of Facial Threading on Female Skin Texture: A Prospective Trial with Physiological Parameters and Sense Assessment

BACKGROUND

Facial threading is a common tradition in Taiwan, Southeast Asia (called "Bande Abru"), Middle East (called "Khite"), and Egypt (called "Fatlah"). In addition to the ability to remove facial vellus hairs, facial threading can make the skin fairer and shinier. However, there has been a lack of hard evidence regarding the effects of facial threading on the skin.

OBJECTIVE

To examine the effects of facial threading on skin physiology as well as visual and touch senses by using scientific instruments.

METHODS

A total of 80 participants were allocated to receive facial threading, application of powder only, exfoliation, and shaving. Prior to and following the assigned treatment, a noninvasive skin condition detection device was used to measure skin coarseness, hydration, melanin, and erythema index. Sense assessment and image analysis were also performed.

RESULTS

This study showed that facial threading was found to improve the facial skin roughness indices with significant decreases by 30.4%, 35.9%, and 16.7%, respectively, for the participants' forehead, cheek, and mouth corner skin. No significant adverse changes in moisture levels and skin pigment indices were detected. In addition, there was improvement in subjects' touch sense of their skin and feelings about skin color.

CONCLUSIONS

Traditional facial threading can remove facial vellus hairs and lower skin roughness levels, thereby improving the skin texture. However, pricking sensation appeared during the facial threading process, which might cause concerns about irritation.

Bio-derived hydroxystearic acid ameliorates skin age spots and conspicuous pores

INTRODUCTION

We report on the preparation and efficacy of 10-hydroxystearic acid (HSA) that improves facial age spots and conspicuous pores.

METHODS

The hydration of oleic acid into HSA was catalyzed by the oleate hydratase from Escherichia coli. Following treatment with HSA, collagen type I and type III was assessed in primary human dermal fibroblasts together with collagen type III, p53 protein levels and sunburn cells (SBC) after UVB irradiation (1 J cm^-2 ) by immunohistochemistry on human ex vivo skin. UVB-induced expression of matrix metalloprotease-1 (MMP-1) was determined from full thickness skin by RT-qPCR. Modification of the fibroblast secretome by HSA was studied by mass-spectrometry-based proteomics. In a full-face, double blind, vehicle-controlled trial HSA was assessed for its effects on conspicuous facial pore size and degree of pigmentation of age spots in Caucasian women over an 8-week period.

RESULTS

HSA was obtained in enantiomeric pure, high yield (≥80%). Collagen type I and type III levels were dose-dependently increased (96% and 244%; P < 0.01) in vitro and collagen type III in ex vivo skin by +57% (P < 0.01) by HSA. HSA also inhibited UVB-induced MMP-1 gene expression (83%; P < 0.01) and mitigated SBC induction (-34% vs. vehicle control) and reduced significantly UV-induced p53 up-regulation (-46% vs. vehicle control; P < 0.01) in irradiated skin. HSA modified the fibroblast secretome with significant increases in proteins associated with the WNT pathway that could reduce melanogenesis and proteins that could modify dermal fibroblast activity and keratinocyte differentiation to account for the alleviation of conspicuous pores. Docking studies in silico and EC50 determination in reporter gene assays (EC50 5.5 × 10^-6  M) identified HSA as a peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor-α (PPARα) agonist. Clinically, HSA showed a statistically significant decrease of surface and volume of skin pores (P < 0.05) after 8 weeks of application and age spots became significantly less pigmented than the surrounding skin (contrast, P < 0.05) after 4 weeks.

CONCLUSION

HSA acts as a PPARα agonist to reduce the signs of age spots and conspicuous pores by significantly modulating the expression of p53, SBC, MMP-1 and collagen together with major changes in secreted proteins that modify keratinocyte, melanocyte and fibroblast cell behavior.

Molecular Mechanisms of Dermal Aging and Antiaging Approaches

The dermis is primarily composed of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and fibroblasts. During the aging process, the dermis undergoes significant changes. Collagen, which is a major component of ECM, becomes fragmented and coarsely distributed, and its total amount decreases. This is mainly due to increased activity of matrix metalloproteinases, and impaired transforming growth factor-β signaling induced by reactive oxygen species generated during aging. The reduction in the amount of collagen hinders the mechanical interaction between fibroblasts and the ECM, and consequently leads to the deterioration of fibroblast function and further decrease in the amount of dermal collagen. Other ECM components, including elastic fibers, glycosaminglycans (GAGs), and proteoglycans (PGs), also change during aging, ultimately leading to a reduction in the amount of functional components. Elastic fibers decrease in intrinsically aged skin, but accumulate abnormally in photoaged skin. The changes in the levels of GAGs and PGs are highly diverse, and previous studies have reported conflicting results. A reduction in the levels of functional dermal components results in the emergence of clinical aging features, such as wrinkles and reduced elasticity. Various antiaging approaches, including topicals, energy-based procedures, and dermal fillers, can restore the molecular features of dermal aging with clinical efficacy. This review summarizes the current understanding of skin aging at the molecular level, and associated treatments, to put some of the new antiaging technology that has emerged in this rapidly expanding field into molecular context.