Niacinamide and 12-hydroxystearic acid prevented benzo(a)pyrene and squalene peroxides induced hyperpigmentation in skin equivalent

Squalane and Squalene

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed newly available studies since their original assessment in 1982, along with updated information regarding product types and concentrations of use, and confirmed that Squalane and Squalene are safe as cosmetic ingredients in the practices of use and concentration as described in this report.

Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation

Vitamin B3 (nicotinic acid, niacin) deficiency causes the systemic disease pellagra, which leads to dermatitis, diarrhea, dementia, and possibly death depending on its severity and duration. Vitamin B3 is used in the synthesis of the NAD+ family of coenzymes, contributing to cellular energy metabolism and defense systems. Although nicotinamide (niacinamide) is primarily used as a nutritional supplement for vitamin B3, its pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical uses have been extensively explored. In this review, we discuss the biological activities and cosmeceutical properties of nicotinamide in consideration of its metabolic pathways. Supplementation of nicotinamide restores cellular NAD+ pool and mitochondrial energetics, attenuates oxidative stress and inflammatory response, enhances extracellular matrix and skin barrier, and inhibits the pigmentation process in the skin. Topical treatment of nicotinamide, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, reduces the progression of skin aging and hyperpigmentation in clinical trials. Topically applied nicotinamide is well tolerated by the skin. Currently, there is no convincing evidence that nicotinamide has specific molecular targets for controlling skin aging and pigmentation. This substance is presumed to contribute to maintaining skin homeostasis by regulating the redox status of cells along with various metabolites produced from it. Thus, it is suggested that nicotinamide will be useful as a cosmeceutical ingredient to attenuate skin aging and hyperpigmentation, especially in the elderly or patients with reduced NAD+ pool in the skin due to internal or external stressors.

Skin Pigmentation Abnormalities and Their Possible Relationship with Skin Aging

Skin disorders showing abnormal pigmentation are often difficult to manage because of their uncertain etiology or pathogenesis. Abnormal pigmentation is a common symptom accompanying aging skin. The association between skin aging and skin pigmentation abnormalities can be attributed to certain inherited disorders characterized by premature aging and abnormal pigmentation in the skin and some therapeutic modalities effective for both. Several molecular mechanisms, including oxidative stress, mitochondrial DNA mutations, DNA damage, telomere shortening, hormonal changes, and autophagy impairment, have been identified as involved in skin aging. Although each of these skin aging-related mechanisms are interconnected, this review examined the role of each mechanism in skin hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation to propose the possible association between skin aging and pigmentation abnormalities.

Development and characterization of a 3D in vitro model mimicking acneic skin

Acne is an inflammatory skin disease of the pilosebaceous unit, involving four essential factors: hyperseborrhoea combined to a modification of sebum composition, colonization by Cutibacterium (C.) acnes, hyperkeratinization and secreted inflammation. Understanding and mimicking compromised skin is essential to further develop appropriate therapeutic solutions. This study aimed to develop new in vitro 3D models mimicking acneic skin, by combining two main factors involved in the physiopathology, namely, altered sebum composition and C. acnes invasion. Normal human keratinocytes were first used to generate reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) that were then left untreated (control) or treated topically with a combination of both peroxidized squalene and C. acnes cultures. Once validated, this model considered relevant to mimic acneic skin, was further improved by using different phylotypes of C. acnes strains specifically isolated from healthy and acneic patients. While both phylotypes IB and II did not significantly alter RHE, C. acnes IA1 strains induce major acneic skin hallmarks such as hyperkeratinization, secreted inflammation and altered barrier function. Interestingly, these results are obtained independently of the origin of IA1 phylotypes (acneic vs. healthy patient), thus suggesting a role of the ecosystem in controlling C. acnes virulence in healthy skin. In conclusion, by combining two major factors involved in the physiopathology of acne, we (1) succeeded to design in vitro 3D models mimicking this skin disorder and (2) highlighted how C. acnes phylotypes can have an impact on epidermal physiology. These relevant models will be suitable for the substantiation of therapeutic molecules dedicated to acne treatment.

Recombinant Oleate Hydratase from Lactobacillus rhamnosus ATCC 53103: Enzyme Expression and Design of a Reliable Experimental Procedure for the Stereoselective Hydration of Oleic Acid

Different microbial strains are able to transform oleic acid (OA) into 10-hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA) by means of the catalytic activity of the enzymes oleate hydratase (EC 4.2.1.53). Lactobacillus rhamnosus ATCC 53103 performs this biotransformation with very high stereoselectivity, affording enantiopure (R)-10-HSA. In this work, we cloned, in Escherichia coli, the oleate hydratase present in the above-mentioned probiotic strain. Our study demonstrated that the obtained recombinant hydratase retains the catalytic properties of the Lactobacillus strain but that its activity was greatly affected by the expression procedure. According to our findings, we devised a reliable procedure for the hydration of oleic acid using a recombinant E. coli whole-cell catalyst. We established that the optimal reaction conditions were pH 6.6 at 28 °C in phosphate buffer, using glycerol and ethanol as co-solvents. According to our experimental protocol, the biocatalyst does not show significant substrate inhibition as the hydration reaction can be performed at high oleic acid concentration (up to 50 g/L).

Evolution of the use of antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics

OBJECTIVE

Skin health and beauty are a cornerstone of general well-being in humans. Anti-ageing cosmetics are used to provide a healthy and youthful appearance. Among the different cosmetic actives, antioxidants are incorporated in anti-ageing products due to their beneficial effects in preventing and minimizing the signs of skin ageing. This work aims to understand how anti-ageing formulations changed in the past 7 years regarding pure antioxidants composition.

METHODS

Data were collected from anti-ageing formulations commercialized in main stores and pharmacies in the Portuguese market. The study started on 2011 and was updated with products launched or whose composition has been renewed on 2013, 2015 or 2018.

RESULTS

Ascorbic acid and tocopherol and their derivatives were consistently the most used antioxidants in anti-ageing formulations; followed by niacinamide and retinyl palmitate. Seven ascorbic acid derivatives are currently used in anti-ageing formulations while only three tocopherol derivatives were identified in this study. Several combinations of antioxidants were routinely found, mainly tocopherol (or tocopherol derivatives) with other antioxidants and tocopherol with tocopherol derivatives. We have not identified emerging antioxidants with great impact in anti-ageing formulations even though niacinamide and retinyl palmitate exhibited over 10% more usage in 2018.

CONCLUSION

This insight is relevant to the cosmetic industry providing a better understanding of the scientific-based formulation of modern cosmetics and supports the need for innovative antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics.