An overview of chemical straightening of human hair: technical aspects, potential risks to hair fibre and health and legal issues

Dermatology in black skin

The vast majority of publications in dermatology refer to lightly pigmented skin, with few addressing the peculiarities of black skin. In addition there is no consensus on what it means to be black in different regions of the world. The lack of knowledge on the subject makes it difficult to recognize and manage dermatoses in this type of skin. This article aims to review the literature on intrinsic characteristics, as well as epidemiological and clinical aspects of the cutaneous manifestations of different dermatoses in black skin. It was found that there are sometimes striking differences, in the structural, biological, and functional aspects when comparing lightly pigmented and black skin. There are also physiological changes that need to be recognized to avoid unnecessary interventions. Some dermatoses have a higher incidence in black skin, such as acne, eczema, dyschromia and dermatophytosis. On the other hand, several dermatoses are more specific to black skin, such as pseudofolliculitis barbae, keloid, dermatosis papulosa nigra, ulcers caused by sickle-cell anemia, dactylolysis spontanea, confluent and reticulated papillomatosis of Gougerot and Carteaud, and some diseases of the hair and scalp (including fragile and brittle hair, traction alopecia, folliculitis keloidalis nuchae, folliculitis dissecans and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia). A spectrum of peculiar aspects of specific dermatoses, including sarcoidosis, lichen planus (with emphasis on the pigmentosus variant), psoriasis, lupus erythematosus, vitiligo, syphilis, pityriasis versicolor, and neoplasms are highlighted. In the latter, characteristics of basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and melanoma are compared, in addition to highlighting unusual aspects of primary cutaneous T-cell lymphoma, endemic Kaposi sarcoma, and dermatofibrosarcoma protuberans.

Morphological and chemical profiling for forensic hair examination: A review of quantitative methods

Within the past two decades, there have been many studies for quantitative analysis on human hair samples. Microscopical and chemical analysis techniques have been used to analyze various aspects of hair regarding biological, chemical, anthropological, cosmetic, and forensic applications. Studies have attempted to develop quantification methods to increase the evidentiary value of hair in forensic casework. The literature reviewed in this paper provides some of the current techniques used for forensic examinations and quantitative methods. Although microscopical analysis has been scrutinized in the past, using chemical and microscopical techniques can provide a myriad of information. The extraction of DNA from hair provides high-value evidence; however, it may not be readily available and may yield inconclusive results. Hair analysis can be used for many forensic applications such as comparison, toxicology, and exposure analysis. In this article, we will review published research material regarding chemical and microscopical techniques for human hair analysis. Aspects considered for this review were the sample size requirement for analysis and the destructive nature of the instrumental method. This review will focus on both macro and micro quantitative methods for human hair analysis.

Promotion of glyoxylic acid penetration into human hair by glycolic acid

OBJECTIVE

Glyoxylic acid (GA) is widely used as a straight perming agent for hair care products, however, advanced GA penetration-enhancing agents are desired due to the peculiar odour and hair colour fading caused by the continuous use of GA products. Hence, it is important to develop a penetration-enhancing agent that helps minimize the GA concentration. We have found that the combined use of GA and glycolic acid (GCA) has a strong hair straightening effect.

METHODS

Straightening hair test was carried out to the evaluation of the effect of additives. Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC/MS) was performed to quantify the GA penetration amount into human hair. Attenuated total reflection (ATR) Fourier transform-infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) and FT-IR microscope were implemented to estimate the localization of GA in the hair.

RESULTS

Straightening hair tests indicated that the hair straightening effect by GA was enhanced by the presence of GCA. LC/MS results showed that the addition of GCA enhanced the amount of GA that penetrated human hair by about four times. ATR FT-IR and FT-IR microscope measurements indicated that GA was localized more in the innermost region of hair (medulla) than the cortex and cuticle. The GA accumulated in the medulla disappeared after a hair straightener treatment at 180°C due to the chemical reaction.

CONCLUSIONS

The GA penetration-enhancing effect of GCA is worth investigating to reduce the GA concentration in products for more comfortable use.

Compulsory notification of injuries in aesthetic procedures. Impact on patient safety

The disparity between the number of aesthetic procedures performed worldwide, and the complications described in the literature is remarkable. Doubts regarding the underreporting are reasonable and should be considered. The aim of this study is to demonstrate the scarcity of scientific publications on complications in aesthetic procedures compared to the abundance of these procedures performed worldwide. Based on this knowledge, it will be demonstrated to the health authorities the importance of compulsory notification of complications in aesthetic procedures that require medical attention so that the available data will allow their prevention. The limitation of knowledge regarding complications was demonstrated in the data collection for the preparation of the thesis “Deaths Related to Liposuction in Brazil” presented in 2018 and published in Surgical and Cosmetical Dermatology in 2020. The definition of complication in aesthetic procedures needs to be objective to prevent different and subjective interpretations. With the compulsory notification of complications in aesthetic procedures, it is intended to learn about their causes to develop guidelines for their prevention.

Natural ‘Green’ Sugar-Based Treatment for Hair Styling

A major drawback of current hair styling treatments is their use of toxic chemicals, such as thioglycolates, sulfites, formaldehyde, and others. Exposure to such chemicals is not only harmful to hairstylists but also to the millions who routinely receive hair treatments. The present research discusses the development of a benign sucrose-based crosslinker consisting of aldehyde groups to stabilize hair via crosslinking amine groups in keratin. ATR-FTIR and 1H-NMR were used to confirm functional groups on sucrose. Hair straightening was carried out by crosslinking via flat ironing. Crosslinked hair swatches were hung in a high humidity environment and subjected to repeated washings with shampoo to characterize the permanency of the treatment. Hair straightening through crosslinking was found to be durable to high humidity and repeat shampoo washings. The tensile characteristics of hair, such as fracture stress, strain, and Young’s modulus, were unaffected by the treatment. SEM images showed no damage to surface scales. The sucrose-based crosslinker could be used to create curls in straight hair as well.

Recent Applications of Derivatization Techniques for Pharmaceutical and Bioanalytical Analysis through High-performance Liquid Chromatography

Background:

Derivatization of analytes is a quite convenient practice from an analytical perspective. Its vast prevalence is accounted by the availability of distinct reagents, primarily pragmatic for obtaining desired modifications in an analyte structure. Another reason for its handiness is typically to overcome limitations such as lack of sensitive methodology or instrumentation.The past decades have witnessed various new derivatization techniques including in-situ, enzymatic, ultrasound-assisted, microwave-assisted, and photochemical derivatization which have gain popularity recently.

Methods:

The online literature available on the utilization of derivatization as prominent analytical tools in recent years with typical advancements is reviewed. The illustrations of the analytical condition together with the structures of different derivatizing reagents (DRs) are provided to acknowledge the vast capability of derivatization to resolve analytical problems.

Results:

The derivatization techniques have enabled analytical chemists throughout the globe to develop an enhanced sensitivity method with the simplest of the instrument like High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). The HPLC, compared to more sensitive Liquid chromatography coupled to tandem mass spectrometer, is readily available and can be readily utilized for routine analysis in fields of pharmaceuticals, bioanalysis, food safety, and environmental contamination. A troublesome aspect of these fields is the presence of a complex matrix with trace concentrations for analyses. Liquid chromatographic methods devoid of MS detectors do not have the desired sensitivity for this. A possible solution for overcoming this is to couple HPLC with derivatization to enable the possibility of detecting trace analytes with a less expensive instrument. Running cost, enhanced sensitivity, low time consumption, and overcoming the inherent problems of analyte are critical parameters for which HPLC is quite useful in high throughput analysis.

Conclusion:

The review critically highlights various kinds of derivatization applications in different fields of analytical chemistry. The information primarily focuses on pharmaceutical and bioanalytical applications in recent years. The various modes, types, and derivatizing reagents with brief mechanisms have been ascribed briefly Additionally, the importance of HPLC coupled to fluorescence and UV detection is presented as an overview through examples accompanied by their analytical conditions.

The Use of Calcium Phosphates in Cosmetics, State of the Art and Future Perspectives

Calcium phosphates (CaPs) belong to a class of biomimetic materials widely employed for medical applications thanks to their excellent properties, such as biodegradability, biocompatibility and osteoinductivity. The recent trend in the cosmetics field of substituting potentially hazardous materials with natural, safe, and sustainable ingredients for the health of consumers and for the environment, as well as the progress in the materials science of academics and chemical industries, has opened new perspectives in the use of CaPs in this field. While several reviews have been focused on the applications of CaP-based materials in medicine, this is the first attempt to catalogue the properties and use of CaPs in cosmetics. In this review a brief introduction on the chemical and physical characteristics of the main CaP phases is given, followed by an up-to-date report of their use in cosmetics through a large literature survey of research papers and patents. The application of CaPs as agents in oral care, skin care, hair care, and odor control has been selected and extensively discussed, highlighting the correlation between the chemical, physical and toxicological properties of the materials with their final applications. Finally, perspectives on the main challenges that should be addressed by the scientific community and cosmetics companies to widen the application of CaPs in cosmetics are given.

Closing the Loop with Keratin-Rich Fibrous Materials

One of the agro-industry's side streams that is widely met is the-keratin rich fibrous material that is becoming a waste product without valorization. Its management as a waste is costly, as the incineration of this type of waste constitutes high environmental concern. Considering these facts, the keratin-rich waste can be considered as a treasure for the producers interested in the valorization of such slowly-biodegradable by-products. As keratin is a protein that needs harsh conditions for its degradation, and that in most of the cases its constitutive amino acids are destroyed, we review new extraction methods that are eco-friendly and cost-effective. The chemical and enzymatic extractions of keratin are compared and the optimization of the extraction conditions at the lab scale is considered. In this study, there are also considered the potential applications of the extracted keratin as well as the reuse of the by-products obtained during the extraction processes.

Straight to the Point: What Do We Know So Far on Hair Straightening?

Background

Hair represents a valued aspect of human individuality. The possibility of having an easy to handle hairstyle and changing it from time to time promoted an increasing search for chemical hair transformations, including hair straightening. Hair straightening is the process used to convert curly into straight hair.

Aims

This review aims to discuss hair straightening, addressing techniques, products, methods of application, consequences to hair shafts, recommendations on this topic, and the risks involving the safety of both the user and the performing professional.

Methods and Results

The terms "straightening" AND "hair," "straightening" AND "alopecia," and "straightening" AND "human hair" were used to perform a literature search in MEDLINE through PubMed until July 15, 2020. We limited the search to articles available in English, considering those mentioning alternatives to straighten the hair. We had a total of 33 relevant articles.

Conclusions

This article will help dermatologists to advise their patients, providing a more suitable orientation on how to get the best outcome without risking one's safety.

Polymeric Hydrogel Coating for Modulating the Shape of Keratin Fiber

Hydrogel coating was explored to modulate the shape of keratin hair fiber. The motivation was the development of an eco-friendly methodology with non-toxic chemicals to modulate keratin fiber. Polymeric hydrogel of acrylic acid and N-N-dimethylacrylamide was prepared by free-radical polymerization in aqueous solution, using nano-alumina particles as crosslinker and potassium persulfate as an initiator. Physico-chemical properties of the hydrogel was investigated by Fourier transformer infrared spectrum (FTIR), thermal analysis and swelling ratio behavior. After hydrogel coating, morphological modification was observed from straight to curly hair effect. The influence of hydrogel coating on hair fiber was evaluated by perming efficiency supported by X-ray diffraction and morphological characterization (SEM and AFM). The durability of hydrogel coating was tested until four wash processes maintaining around 65% the new configuration of the hair fiber.

Microscopic Characteristics Of Scalp Hair Subjected To Cultural Styling Methods In Ghanaian African Females

Purpose

To provide data for forensic use and provoke ideas to preserve shaft integrity, we studied microstructural alterations of female scalp hair subjected to Ghanaian cultural styling methods. Hence, topographical features of female hairs styled by braiding/weaving, and chemical relaxation sampled from five different scalp regions were assessed and compared with natural (Afro) hair.

Subjects and methods

Ninety-six indigenous Ghanaian females volunteered 480 hairs, which were analyzed by light microscopy. Hairs were plucked using a pair of cosmetologist’s tweezers from frontal, left temporal, right temporal, vertex, and occipital regions of the scalp. Hairs were categorized by their grooming styles as Afro (natural-unstyled), natural-styled (weaved/braided), and chemically relaxed. These were studied according to shaft/medulla dimensions and conventional cuticular scale features, and comparisons were made between styling procedures and scalp regions.

Results

Chemically styled hair had the widest shaft diameter, but the lowest incidence of continuous medullation. Medullary diameter and index increased from chemically relaxed, natural-styled, to Afro hair. A positive but modest correlation between shaft and medullary diameters existed for Afro (r = 0.320, p = 0.011) and natural-styled hairs (r = 0.235, p = 0.022) but not chemically relaxed hair (r = 0.122, p = 0.2). Scale margins were predominantly smooth in Afro hair, crenate in natural-styled hair, and rippled in chemically relaxed hair. With respect to scalp regions, hair shaft diameter was widest in vertex hair and smallest in right temporal hair in all styling methods.

Conclusion

Medulla was thickest in Afro hair, which also exhibited a correlation with shaft diameter in conformity with the published data. Chemically relaxed hairs did not exhibit these characteristics, which affirm altered morphology. Research on how chemicals affect these changes should help find antidote. The dimensional variations of hairs from different scalp regions are instructive for both cosmetic and forensic examination of hairs.

Thiolated polymers: Bioinspired polymers utilizing one of the most important bridging structures in nature

Thiolated polymers designated "thiomers" are obtained by covalent attachment of thiol functionalities on the polymeric backbone of polymers. In 1998 these polymers were first described as mucoadhesive and in situ gelling compounds forming disulfide bonds with cysteine-rich substructures of mucus glycoproteins and crosslinking through inter- and intrachain disulfide bond formation. In the following, it was shown that thiomers are able to form disulfides with keratins and membrane-associated proteins exhibiting also cysteine-rich substructures. Furthermore, permeation enhancing, enzyme inhibiting and efflux pump inhibiting properties were demonstrated. Because of these capabilities thiomers are promising tools for drug delivery guaranteeing a strongly prolonged residence time as well as sustained release on mucosal membranes. Apart from that, thiomers are used as drugs per se. In particular, for treatment of dry eye syndrome various thiolated polymers are in development and a first product has already reached the market. Within this review an overview about the thiomer-technology and its potential for different applications is provided discussing especially the outcome of studies in non-rodent animal models and that of numerous clinical trials. Moreover, an overview on product developments is given.

Chemical and physical treatments damage Caucasian and Afro-ethnic hair fibre: analytical and image assays

BACKGROUND

Sensory and structural characteristics of hair can be modified by chemical and physical treatments, as dyeing, brushing, but also by external factors, as sunlight radiation. However, quantitative data relating damage to the degree of hair curliness and treatments are missing.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the effect of chemical and physical treatments on different types of hair.

METHODS

In this study, we compared the effects of bleaching/dyeing, thioglycolate-based straightening, brushing/flat iron and UVA/Vis radiation on different types of hair: Caucasian (straight dark brown, straight blond, wavy dark brown and curly dark brown) and Afro-ethnic hair.

RESULTS

Bleaching/dyeing and UVA/Vis radiation increased combing work of Afro-ethnic hair tresses, indicating damage to the cuticle scales, which was confirmed by SEM images. Further, bleaching/dyeing caused wear on cuticles with high protein loss and reduction on the tryptophan content, independently of the hair curliness, which characterizes those procedures as very aggressive to hair structure. Straightening using ammonium thioglycolate, due to the oxidative treatment evolved, caused significant colour fading in brown/black tresses, while UVA/Vis radiation affected the colour of only blond hair tresses since they are poor in eumelanin, the photoprotective and photostable melanin molecule.

CONCLUSION

The combination of analytical and image techniques contributed to understanding how the hair shape is related to the type of damage caused by several chemical and physical treatments. These findings contribute to the development of safety cosmetics that insure the beauty of curly hair, both Caucasian and Afro-ethnic hair.

Raman spectroscopy and electronic microscopy structural studies of Caucasian and Afro human hair

Human hair fibre is subjected to various structural modifications due to the application of chemicals such as dyes, shampoos and bleaches and/or physical procedures such as heating, and often more than one procedure is performed on the same hair. The present work aims to analyze the changes incurred in hair samples of two ethnic groups, namely Caucasian and Afro, before and after different treatments such as thermal, bleaching and straightening. In addition to observing the damage caused by each treatment separately, the study of samples that received all three treatments was carried out. For molecular structural characterization, the Raman vibrational spectroscopic technique was used and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was used for morphological analysis of the hair fibres. This investigation has shown, through vibrational spectroscopy, that several important bonds have been modified, such as the S-S, C-S, C-C and S-O bonds as well as the secondary structures of proteins that have indergone changes in their conformation as a result of the treatment. Hair from the two ethnic groups showed small differences in relation to each applied treatment. Excessive heat generated a higher rate of Raman spectral band intensity changes when compared to the other treatments and it was observed that the action of several treatments on the same hair fibres resulted in even more pronounced structural changes. Finally, scanning electron microscopy showed that each treatment caused a different morphological deformation pattern on the capillary surface of the human hair.

New pattern hair loss in young Turkish women; What's wrong in their daily life?

BACKGROUND

The application of heat, used to straighten the typically coiled hair, has long been hypothesized to play a role in the etiologic factor for central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA). The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of thermal hair straightening on hair loss pattern in Asian women exist.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Thirty-five patients with hair loss who have been using hair straightening devices and 25 patients with telogen effluvium were enrolled in this prospective study. Laboratory analysis and dermatoscopic findings were used to compare these groups.

RESULTS

The peripilar white halo around hairs, peripilar dark/gray halo around follicular orifices, the predominance of a single hair perifollicular unit (FU), hair diameter diversity, the thin miniaturized hair, interfollicular pinpoint white dots, and white patches were statistically higher in hair straightener group (P < 0.001). White patches of the scalp increased by the time of the application of these devices (P < 0.01). White patches of vertex region were significantly higher than the midfrontal region (P < 0.01).

CONCLUSION

The common side effects of thermal hot comb strengtheners' were summarized as damage to the hair shaft; decreasing in the brightness of the hair, burns, and scars on the scalp; and lastly CCCA-like hair loss.

Health improvement of human hair and their reshaping using recombinant keratin K31

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We expressed in E. coli, refolded and purified keratin K31, which is known to be a major protein degraded and eluted in hair damage.

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Analysis of the recombinant protein by MALDI-TOF, CD spectroscopy and molecular modelling showed its similarity to the native protein.

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Marked improvements in thickness, strength and smoothness on application of this protein on damaged hair has been shown for the first time.

Hair, being one of the most important components of the beauty care processes, attracts the use of a variety of hair treating cosmetics. Conventional hair treating cosmetics are not satisfactory for one reason or the other. Commercially used keratins are isolated from wool or chicken feathers. As these lack complete sequence identity with human hair keratin, are likely to be less efficient than the human hair keratin. K31, a type I acidic keratin, is a major protein of human hair keratin complex and it is essential for maintaining the hair tensile strength. In this study keratin K31 (46 kDa) gene was expressed in Escherichia coli at a level of approximately 35% of the total cell proteins. The protein, however, was expressed as insoluble inclusion bodies. The expressed protein was refolded and purified by FPLC using an anion-exchange column. The CD analysis results showed that the K31 was properly refolded. MALDI-TOF mass spectroscopy showed the characteristics expected for human K31 keratin. The refolded and partially purified K31 protein, when applied on chemically damaged hairs, increased the diameter of the hair up to 49%. The mechanical strength of the bleached hair increased by almost 2 fold after a single treatment of K31. The protein also straightened curly hair efficiently on a single treatment for one hour. Application of K31 resulted in marked improvements in smoothness, diameter and mechanical strength of the damaged hair.

Reactive keratin derivatives: A promising strategy for covalent binding to hair

HYPOTHESIS

Restoration of damaged hair structure by replacing lost keratin is still of paramount interest. On account of the fact that native keratin is a highly cross-linked protein with numerous disulfide bonds but just a few nucleophilic thiol groups, binding affinity to hair is comparatively low. Hence, the design of reactive keratin derivatives bearing free sulfhydryl groups that are optionally S-protected and preactivated should enhance permanent binding to hair fibers.

EXPERIMENTS

Keratin was extracted from human Caucasian hair and reduced with NaBH₄ to obtain free sulfhydryl groups (keratin-SH). These thiol groups were S-protected via disulfide linkage to 2-mercaptonicotinic acid (keratin-MNA). Hair fibers were either utilized in their natural form or chemically damaged by bleaching. Amount of keratin derivatives being bound to hair fibers was quantified by fluorescence detection of fluorescein isothiocyanate labeled keratins.

FINDINGS

Both modifications induced higher affinity of keratin to hair fibers, resulting in up to 1.7-fold (keratin-MNA) improved binding to natural hair and up to 3.6-fold (keratin-MNA) improved binding to bleached hair. Confocal laser microscopy confirmed the accumulation of keratin derivatives in distinct regions of the cuticle layer. Thiol functionalization seems therefore to be a promising strategy for efficient durable binding of keratin to hair.

Green and Sustainable Technology for High-Efficiency and Low-Damage Manipulation of Densely Crosslinked Proteins

A two-step technology using nontoxic and eco-friendly chemicals is developed for the durable setting of densely/highly crosslinked proteins, such as wool and hair. Currently, most technologies for morphological modification are effective only for materials from non-highly-crosslinked proteins and cellulose. Before their morphological change, only water is needed to interrupt hydrogen bonds and ionic linkages, which stabilize the relative positions of molecules in non-highly-crosslinked proteins and cellulose. However, highly crosslinked proteins contain disulfide crosslinks, which are insusceptible to water. Thus, the controlled cleavage of disulfide bonds is required for creating new morphologies of highly crosslinked protein materials, such as hair and wool. Herein, cysteine and citric acid (CA) were used for the two-step setting of highly crosslinked proteins. This recipe showed better morphological change and less mechanical loss than commercial hair styling products. A reaction between CA and keratin was proposed, and verified via NMR and Raman spectra and titration. This technology could be a prospective alternative to achieve durable hair setting, anticrease finishing of wool textiles, and other durable morphological changes needed for highly crosslinked proteins.

Changing the shape of hair with keratin peptides

Here we propose a solution which will replace harsh reducing agents at alkaline pH by peptide formulations acting at neutral pH to change hair shape through the re-conformation of disulphide bonds.

Solid state NMR of isotope labelled murine fur: a powerful tool to study atomic level keratin structure and treatment effects

We have prepared mouse fur extensively ¹³C,¹⁵N-labelled in all amino acid types enabling application of 2D solid state NMR techniques which establish covalent and spatial proximities within, and in favorable cases between, residues. ¹³C double quantum-single quantum correlation and proton driven spin diffusion techniques are particularly useful for resolving certain amino acid types. Unlike 1D experiments on isotopically normal material, the 2D methods allow the chemical shifts of entire spin systems of numerous residue types to be determined, particularly those with one or more distinctively shifted atoms such as Gly, Ser, Thr, Tyr, Phe, Val, Leu, Ile and Pro. Also the partial resolution of the amide signals into two signal envelopes comprising of α-helical, and β-sheet/random coil components, enables resolution of otherwise overlapped α-carbon signals into two distinct cross peak families corresponding to these respective secondary structural regions. The increase in resolution conferred by extensive labelling offers new opportunities to study the chemical fate and structural environments of specific atom and amino acid types under the influence of commercial processes, and therapeutic or cosmetic treatments.

Hair Breakage in Patients of African Descent: Role of Dermoscopy

Dermoscopy represents a useful technique for the diagnosis and follow-up of hair and scalp disorders. To date, little has been published regarding dermoscopy findings of hair disorders in patients of African descent. This article illustrates how dermoscopy allows fast diagnosis of hair breakage due to intrinsic factors and chemical damage in African descent patients.

Effects of chemical structures of polycarboxylic acids on molecular and performance manipulation of hair keratin

A non-toxic hair crosslinking formula containing polycarboxylic acids and featuring a high treatment performance and mechanical retention is developed.

Trichodystrophies: A hair-raising differential diagnosis

The appearance of an individual's hair is said to be reflective of internal health. Patients with hair shaft disorders commonly present with fragile, lusterless, sparse hair in addition to psychosocial distress. Hair shaft disorders may be hereditary or acquired and may present in children or adults. Due to the varied presentations, the differential diagnosis for hair is broad and often confusing. The authors present a question-by-question guide to help clinicians arrive at the correct diagnosis.

Formaldehyde replacement with glyoxylic acid in semipermanent hair straightening: a new and multidisciplinary investigation

OBJECTIVE

Formaldehyde is an effective and popular semipermanent hair straightener, but the severe consequences for human health due to its toxicity have prompted the search for safer alternatives. Different carbonyl compounds, including glyoxylic acid, have recently been proposed as promising candidates. Despite the interest in this topic, there is a lack of information about the interactions between hair keratin and straightener agents. This study addresses this issue to gain new insights useful in the development of new products for safe, semipermanent hair deformation.

METHODS

The possible reactions occurring between carbonyl groups and nucleophilic sites on amino acid residues belonging to the keratin were investigated using as model compounds some aldehydes and amino acid derivatives. Raman and IR analyses on yak hair subjected to the straightening treatment with glyoxylic acid in different conditions were carried out. Scanning electron microscope (SEM) analyses were carried out on yak and curly human hair after each step of the straightening procedure.

RESULTS

The reactions between aldehydes and N-α-acetyl-L-lysine revealed the importance of the carbonyl electrophilicity and temperature to form imines. Raman and IR analyses on yak hair subjected to the straightening treatment evidenced rearrangements in the secondary structure distribution, conformational changes to the disulphide bridges, a decrease of the serine residues and formation of imines. It was also indicated that straightening produced major conformational rearrangements within the hair fibre rather than on the cuticle.

CONCLUSION

This investigation revealed the role played by the electrophilicity of the carbonyl on the straightener agent and of the temperature, closely related to the dehydration process. Raman and IR studies indicated the involvement of imine bonds and the occurrence of a sequence of conformational modifications during the straightening procedure. SEM analyses showed the effectiveness of the treatment at the cuticular level.