Investigation on formaldehyde release from preservatives in cosmetics

Decoding Cosmetic Complexities: A Comprehensive Guide to Matrix Composition and Pretreatment Technology

Despite advancements in analytical technologies, the complex nature of cosmetic matrices, coupled with the presence of diverse and trace unauthorized additives, hinders the application of these technologies in cosmetics analysis. This not only impedes effective regulation of cosmetics but also leads to the continual infiltration of illegal products into the market, posing serious health risks to consumers. The establishment of cosmetic regulations is often based on extensive scientific experiments, resulting in a certain degree of latency. Therefore, timely advancement in laboratory research is crucial to ensure the timely update and adaptability of regulations. A comprehensive understanding of the composition of cosmetic matrices and their pretreatment technologies is vital for enhancing the efficiency and accuracy of cosmetic detection. Drawing upon the China National Medical Products Administration's 2021 Cosmetic Classification Rules and Classification Catalogue, we streamline the wide array of cosmetics into four principal categories based on the following compositions: emulsified, liquid, powdered, and wax-based cosmetics. In this review, the characteristics, compositional elements, and physicochemical properties inherent to each category, as well as an extensive overview of the evolution of pretreatment methods for different categories, will be explored. Our objective is to provide a clear and comprehensive guide, equipping researchers with profound insights into the core compositions and pretreatment methods of cosmetics, which will in turn advance cosmetic analysis and improve detection and regulatory approaches in the industry.

Imidazolidinyl Urea

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed updated information that has become available since their original assessment from 1980, along with updated information regarding product types, and frequency and concentrations of use, and reaffirmed their original conclusion that Imidazolidinyl Urea is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the practices of use and concentration as described in this report.

N-Acyloxymethyl-phthalimides deliver genotoxic formaldehyde to human cells

Formaldehyde is a pollutant and human metabolite that is toxic at high concentrations. Biological studies on formaldehyde are hindered by its high reactivity and volatility, which make it challenging to deliver quantitatively to cells. Here, we describe the development and validation of a set of N-acyloxymethyl-phthalimides as cell-relevant formaldehyde delivery agents. These esterase-sensitive compounds were similarly or less inhibitory to human cancer cell growth than free formaldehyde but the lead compound increased intracellular formaldehyde concentrations, increased cellular levels of thymidine derivatives (implying increased formaldehyde-mediated carbon metabolism), induced formation of cellular DNA-protein cross-links and induced cell death in pancreatic cancer cells. Overall, our N-acyloxymethyl-phthalimides and control compounds provide an accessible and broadly applicable chemical toolkit for formaldehyde biological research and have potential as cancer therapeutics.

Addition of formaldehyde releaser imidazolidinyl urea and MOPS buffer to urine samples enables delayed processing for flow cytometric analysis of urinary cells: A simple, two step conservation method of urinary cells for flow cytometry

INTRODUCTION

Kidney diseases are a major health concern worldwide. Currently there is a large unmet need for novel biomarkers to non-invasively diagnose and monitor kidney diseases. Urinary cells are promising biomarkers and their analysis by flow cytometry has demonstrated its utility in diverse clinical settings. However, up to date this methodology depends on fresh samples, as cellular event counts and the signal-to-noise-ratio deter over time. Here we developed an easy-to-use two-step preservation method for conservation of urine samples for subsequent flow cytometry.

METHODS

The protocol utilizes a combination of the formaldehyde releasing agent imidazolidinyl urea (IU) and MOPS buffer, leading to gentle fixation of urinary cells.

RESULTS

The preservation method increases acceptable storing time of urine samples from several hours to up to 6 days. Cellular event counts and staining properties of cells remain comparable to fresh untreated samples.

OUTLOOK

The hereby presented preservation method facilitates future investigations on flow cytometry of urinary cells as potential biomarkers and may enable broad implementation in clinical practice.

Short-term in vitro exposure of Pinctada imbricata's haemocytes to Quaternium-15: exploring physiological and cellular responses

Since the 2000s, the pearl oyster Pinctada imbricata (Röding, 1798) has become established along the transitional waterways of the "Capo Peloro Lagoon" natural reserve, where it is now abundant due to its adaptability to different hydrological, climatic, environmental, and pollution conditions. This study aims to evaluate haemocyte immune-mediated responses in vitro to quaternium-15, a common pollutant in aquatic ecosystems. Cell viability and phagocytosis activity decreased when exposed to 0.1 or 1mg/L of quaternium-15. Moreover, decreasing phagocytosis was confirmed by gene expression modulation of actin, involved in cytoskeleton rearrangement. Effects on oxidative stress-related genes were also assessed (Cat, MnSod, Zn/CuSod, GPx). The qPCR data revealed alterations in antioxidant responses through gene dose- and time-dependent modulation. This study presents insights into the physiological responses and cellular mechanisms of P. imbricata haemocytes to environmental stressors, indicating that this species is useful as a novel bioindicator for future toxicological studies.

Inhalational exposure to formaldehyde, carcinogenic, and non-carcinogenic risk assessment: A systematic review

Formaldehyde is one of the most widely used substances in a variety of industries, although it was classified as a human carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC). The present systematic review was conducted to retrieve studies related to occupational exposure to formaldehyde until November 2, 2022. Aims of the study were to identify workplaces exposed to formaldehyde, to investigate the formaldehyde concentrations in various occupations and to evaluate carcinogenic and non-carcinogenic risks caused by respiratory exposure to this chemical among workers. A systematic search was done in Scopus, PubMed and Web of Science databases to find the studies done in this field. In this review, studies that did not meet the criteria specified by Population, Exposure, Comparator, and Outcomes (PECO) approach were excluded. In addition, the inclusion of studies dealing with the biological monitoring of FA in the body and review studies, conference articles, books, and letters to the editors were avoided. The quality of the selected studies was also evaluated using the Joanna Briggs Institute (JBI) checklist for analytic-cross-sectional studies. Finally, 828 studies were found, and after the investigations, 35 articles were included in this study. The results revealed that the highest formaldehyde concentrations were observed in waterpipe cafes (1,620,000 μg/m³) and anatomy and pathology laboratories (4237.5 μg/m³). Carcinogenic and non-carcinogenic risk indicated the potential health effects for employees due to respiratory exposure as acceptable levels of CR = 1.00 × 10^-4 and HQ = 1, respectively were reported to be exceeded in more than 71% and 28.57% of the investigated studies. Therefore, according to the confirmation of formaldehyde's adverse health effects, it is necessary to adopt targeted strategies to reduce or eliminate exposure to this compound from the occupational usage.

Quantitative Risk Assessment of Dermal Sensitization Potential Following Use of Shampoo Products Containing the Formaldehyde Releasing Preservative DMDM Hydantoin

Historically, formaldehyde was used as a preservative in personal care products to extend product shelf-life; however, given its skin sensitization potential it has been phased out of use and replaced with formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, such as Dimethyloldimethyl hydantoin (DMDMH). A relationship has been established between positive patch test results following exposure to DMDMH and previous sensitization to formaldehyde. Upon direct contact with the skin, formaldehyde can react with skin proteins and cause an acute inflammatory reaction, which may progress to skin sensitization following repeated exposure. This quantitative risk assessment (QRA) aimed to assess the risk of skin sensitization induction following use of shampoo products containing the maximum allowable concentrations of DMDMH in formulation (1% w/v), translating to a free formaldehyde concentration of 0.02%. To determine a margin of safety (MOS) for exposure to DMDMH from use of shampoo products, consumer exposure levels (CEL) were estimated based on typical use scenarios and then benchmarked against an acceptable exposure level (AEL). The AEL was derived using a weight of evidence approach where a range of no expected sensitization induction levels (NESILs) was utilized. The MOS values for a shampoo product containing 1% DMDMH (.02% formaldehyde) was above 1 for the typical use scenario indicating a low likelihood of skin sensitization induction among healthy individuals. Thus, it can be concluded that shampoo products containing DMDMH at or below current allowable concentrations are not expected to increase the risk of skin sensitization induction.

Potential Carcinogens in Makeup Cosmetics

Facial makeup cosmetics are commonly used products that are applied to the skin, and their ingredients come into contact with it for many years. Consequently, they should only contain substances that are considered safe or used within an allowable range of established concentrations. According to current European laws, all cosmetics approved for use should be entirely safe for their users, and the responsibility for this lies with manufacturers, distributors, and importers. However, the use of cosmetics can be associated with undesirable effects due to the presence of certain chemical substances. An analysis of 50 random facial makeup cosmetics commercially available on the European Union market and manufactured in six European countries was carried out, concerning the presence of substances with potential carcinogenic properties, as described in recent years in the literature. Nine types of facial makeup cosmetics were selected, and their compositions, as declared on the labels, were analyzed. The carcinogens were identified with information present in the European CosIng database and according to the Insecticide Resistance Action Committee's (IRAC) classification. As a result, the following potential carcinogens were identified: parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and ethylparaben), ethoxylated compounds (laureth-4, lautreth-7, or ethylene glycol polymers known as PEG), formaldehyde donors (imidazolidinyl urea, quaternium 15, and DMDM hydantoin), and ethanolamine and their derivatives (triethanolamine and diazolidinyl urea), as well as carbon and silica. In conclusion, all of the analyzed face makeup cosmetics contain potential carcinogenic substances. The literature review confirmed the suppositions regarding the potential carcinogenic effects of selected cosmetic ingredients. Therefore, it seems necessary to carry out studies on the long-term exposure of compounds present in cosmetics and perhaps introduce stricter standards and laws regulating the potential presence of carcinogens and their activity in cosmetics.

Formaldehyde reacts with N-terminal proline residues to give bicyclic aminals

Formaldehyde (HCHO) is a potent electrophile that is toxic above threshold levels, but which is also produced in the nuclei of eukaryotic cells by demethylases. We report studies with the four canonical human histones revealing that histone H2B reacts with HCHO, including as generated by a histone demethylase, to give a stable product. NMR studies show that HCHO reacts with the N-terminal proline and associated amide of H2B to give a 5,5-bicyclic aminal that is relatively stable to competition with HCHO scavengers. While the roles of histone modification by this reaction require further investigation, we demonstrated the potential of N-terminal aminal formation to modulate protein function by conducting biochemical and cellular studies on the effects of HCHO on catalysis by 4-oxalocrotonate tautomerase, which employs a nucleophilic N-terminal proline. The results suggest that reactions of N-terminal residues with HCHO and other aldehydes have potential to alter protein function.

Chemicals of concern in personal care products used by women of color in three communities of California

BACKGROUND

Personal care products (PCPs) may contain chemicals associated with adverse health effects. Prior studies found differences in product use by race/ethnicity and suggest some women are disproportionately exposed to chemicals of concern (CoCs).

OBJECTIVE

We quantified chemicals linked to cancer, reproductive or developmental harm, or endocrine disruption in PCPs used by women of color.

METHODS

We documented PCPs in stores frequented by Black, Latina, and Vietnamese women in their communities in California and CoCs on ingredient labels of 546 unique hair, skin, makeup, nail, deodorant/perfume, and intimate care products. Community partners chose 31 products for a combined targeted and suspect screen (National Institute of Standards and Technology mass spectral library search) two-dimensional gas chromatography time-of-flight mass spectrometry (GCxGC-TOFMS) analysis to detect chemicals not on ingredient labels.

RESULTS

We found that 65% of labels included CoCs, and 74% of labels had undisclosed ingredients listed as "fragrance." The most prevalent chemicals were parabens, cyclosiloxanes, and formaldehyde releasers. GCxGC-TOFMS found additional CoCs, including fragrances, solvents, preservatives, ultraviolet filters, and contaminants.

SIGNIFICANCE

These findings contribute to awareness of potentially hazardous chemicals in PCPs, can help estimate disparities in chemical exposure, and complement research on health inequities due to chemical exposures from various contributors.

IMPACT STATEMENT

This study is one of the first detailed assessments of chemicals of concern found in various types of PCPs used by several racial/ethnic groups. We found that over half of the 546 products selected by community partners as marketed to and/or used by them contained ingredients linked to cancer, reproductive or developmental harm, or endocrine disruption. Laboratory analysis identified additional chemicals in a subset of products, including unlabeled fragrance chemicals and contaminants. Elucidating exposures to chemicals in PCPs is important for risk assessment and health inequity research.

Decision making in next generation risk assessment for skin allergy: Using historical clinical experience to benchmark risk

Our aim is to develop and apply next generation approaches to skin allergy risk assessment that do not require new animal test data and better quantify uncertainties. Quantitative risk assessment for skin sensitisation uses safety assessment factors to extrapolate from the point-of-departure to an acceptable human exposure level. It is currently unclear whether these safety assessment factors are appropriate when using non-animal test data to derive a point-of departure. Our skin allergy risk assessment model Defined Approach uses Bayesian statistics to infer a human-relevant metric of sensitiser potency with explicit quantification of uncertainty, using any combination of human repeat insult patch test, local lymph node assay, direct peptide reactivity assay, KeratinoSens™, h-CLAT or U-SENS™ data. Here we describe the incorporation of benchmark exposures pertaining to use of consumer products with clinical data supporting a high/low risk categorisation for skin sensitisation. Margins-of-exposure (potency estimate to consumer exposure level ratio) are regressed against the benchmark risk classifications, enabling derivation of a risk metric defined as the probability that an exposure is low risk. This approach circumvents the use of safety assessment factors and provides a simple and transparent mechanism whereby clinical experience can directly feed-back into risk assessment decisions.

Contact allergy to and allergic contact dermatitis from formaldehyde and -releasers: A clinical review and update

This review aims to provide a clinically useful update regarding the role of formaldehyde (FA) and its five main releasers (FRs) quaternium-15, diazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea and 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (bronopol) in contact allergy and allergic contact dermatitis. These ubiquitous preservatives are still often, and sometimes undeclared, present in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, medical devices, household detergents and chemical (industrial) products. In Europe, the use of free FA and quaternium-15 in cosmetics is forbidden and contact allergy rates have been found to be stable to decreasing. However, FA/FRs still readily provoke localized (e.g., facial/hand), airborne and generalized dermatitis, and may also complicate atopic and stasis dermatitis, or result in nummular dermatitis. Seborrheic-, rosacea- and impetigo-like dermatitis have recently been reported. For a correct diagnosis, FA 2% aq. (0.60 mg/cm² ) should be used, and particularly the FRs bronopol 0.5% pet. and diazolidinyl urea 2% should be patch tested separately in a baseline series. If sensitization to FA occurs, both FA and FRs should preferably be avoided, except perhaps for bronopol in case it tests negatively. If a patient reacts to one or more FRs (such as bronopol, or diazolidinyl/imidazolidinyl urea), but not to FA, then the specific FR(s) should be avoided. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Analytical Method Development for Determining Formaldehyde in Cream Cosmetics Using Hyphenated Gas Chromatography

Formaldehyde has been reported to be a potential human carcinogen due to its toxicity. However, formaldehyde releaser substances are still widely used as a preservative in cosmetics. Researchers have developed various methods for determining formaldehyde. One of the problems involved in the standard method is that of obtaining a derivatization agent, especially for routine analysis in the National Agency of Drug and Food, Indonesia. Therefore, this study aimed to develop a new method using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and gas chromatography-flame ionization detection (GC-FID). The significant modifications involved optimizations of five series of concentrations of p-toluenesulfonic (PTS) acid in ethanol (acidified ethanol), used as the derivatization agent, and the conditions of time and temperature of the reaction to yield the highest peak area. In addition, sample analysis was also carried out using the 2,4-dinitrophenylhydrazine (DNPH) method with high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to compare the quantification results. The validated method showed intraday and interday precision, an accuracy (% RSD) of less than 3.7%, confidence interval 95.0-105.0%, a limit of detection and quantitation of 0.0099 and 0.0329 μg/mL (for DNPH by HPLC-DAD), 0.0158 and 0.0528 μg/mL (for PTS by SHS-GC-MS), and 1.1287 and 3.7625 μg/mL (for PTS liquid by GC-FID), respectively. These results have met the requirements for a validated analytical method and could be applied for routine analysis.

Controversy around parabens: Alternative strategies for preservative use in cosmetics and personal care products

Parabens usage as preservatives in cosmetics and personal care products have been debated among scientists and consumers. Parabens are easy to production, effective and cheap, but its safety status remains controversial. Other popular cosmetics preservatives are formaldehyde, triclosan, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol and sodium benzoate. Although their high antimicrobial effectiveness, they also exhibit some adverse health effects. Lately, scientists have shown that natural substances such as essential oils and plant extracts present antimicrobial potential. However, their use in cosmetic is a challenge. The present review article is a comprehensive summary of the available methods to prevent microbial contamination of cosmetics and personal care products, which can allow reducing the use of parabens in these products.

In vitro skin penetration of bronidox, bronopol and formaldehyde from cosmetics

The objective was to evaluate the influence of the formulation in the in vitro transdermal absorption through pig ear skin of three preservatives, bronopol, bronidox and formaldehyde as well as the absorption of formaldehyde from bronopol and dimethyloldimethyl hydantoin (DMDM hydantoin). An aqueous solution, an O/W emulsion and a hydrogel were assayed. Bronidox and bronopol absorption depends on the formulation. The O/W emulsion was the system that least promoted absorption of bronidox while the absorption of bronopol was lower from the hydrogel. The aqueous solution provided maximal transdermal absorption of both preservatives. Moreover, the transdermal absorption of formaldehyde released from bronopol also depends on the formulation, being the aqueous solution the system that allowed greater absorption. Transdermal absorption of formaldehyde, applied directly or released from DMDM hydantoin, is not conditioned by the excipients. The degree of transdermal absorption of all the preservatives tested is low and therefore the concentrations allowed by regulations are safely used. Nonetheless, since formaldehyde was detected in the receptor compartment after a long time exposure to bronopol and DMDM hydantoin it would be important to consider the possibility of limiting the use of these two preservatives to rinse off products as is the case of bronidox.

Formaldehyde Exposure and Its Potential Health Risk in Some Beauty Salons in Kumasi Metropolis

Cosmetologists may be potentially exposed to high levels of formaldehyde as a result of their exposure to formaldehyde released from the various cosmetic products used in the beauty salons. In order to assess the exposure of cosmetologists to formaldehyde, the indoor air in sixty beauty salons across the ten submetros in Kumasi were sampled to determine the formaldehyde levels and the associated noncarcinogenic human health risks. Sampling was done using System Service Innovation Incorporation air sampler model 1000i, and the MBTH spectrophotometric method was used for analysis. The mean levels of formaldehyde concentrations ranged from 88.67 to 170.67 µg/m³. Out of the sixty salons sampled, 36 salons had formaldehyde levels above the WHO permissible limit of 100 µg/m³ for an eight-hour working period and also exceeded the 55 and 9 µg/m³ for chronic and acute reference exposure limit, respectively, set by the Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment. The results of this study revealed that the number of customers that visit the salon in a week, number of salon services offered, and age of salon had a positive significant correlation with the level of formaldehyde determined in each salon. The health risk study also revealed that about 50% of the salons had hazard quotient (HQ) above the safety limit (HQ = 1) and may, therefore, pose health risks to cosmetologists in these salons. Results from the analysis of the questionnaire revealed that hairdressers in salons that provide the entire range of salon services captured in the study are at higher risk to the effects of formaldehyde.

The Beast of Beauty: Environmental and Health Concerns of Toxic Components in Cosmetics

Cosmetic products are used in large quantities across the world. An increasing number of chemical compounds are being added to the formulation of cosmetic products as additives, fragrances, preservatives, stabilizers, surfactants, dye and shine to potentiate their quality, property and shelf life. Owing to their widespread use, active residues of cosmetic products are continuously introduced into the environment in several ways. Many of these chemicals are bioactive and are characterized by potential bioaccumulation ability and environmental persistence, thus exerting a major risk to humans and the health of ecosystems. Hence, the indiscriminate consumption of cosmetics may present a looming issue with significant adverse impacts on public health. This review intends to spotlight a current overview of toxic ingredients used in formulating cosmetics such as parabens, triclosan, benzalkonium chloride, 1,4-dioxane, plastic microbeads, formaldehyde, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, sunscreen elements (organic and inorganic UV filters) and trace metals. Specific focus is given to illustrate the biological risks of these substances on human health and aquatic system in terms of genotoxicity, cytotoxicity, neurotoxicity mutagenicity, and estrogenicity. In addition to conclusive remarks, future directions are also suggested.

An insight into toxicity and human-health-related adverse consequences of cosmeceuticals - A review

In recent years, the use of cosmeceutical-based personal care and beauty products has ever increased, around the world. Currently, an increasing number of compounds are being assimilated in the formulation of cosmetic products as preservatives, fragrances, surfactants, etc. to intensify the performance, quality, value, and lifespan of cosmetics. Nevertheless, many of these chemical additives pose toxic effects to the human body, exhibiting health risks from a mild hypersensitivity to life-threatening anaphylaxis or lethal intoxication. Therefore, the indiscriminate application of cosmeceuticals has recently become a mounting issue confronting public health. The present review focuses on exposure to a large variety of toxic substances used in cosmetic formulations such as 1,4-dioxane formaldehyde, paraformaldehyde, benzalkonium chloride, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, trace heavy metals, parabens derivatives, phthalates, isothiazolinone derivatives (methylchloroiso-thiazolinone, and methylisothiazolinone), methyldibromo glutaronitrile, and phenoxy-ethanol. The biological risks related to these substances that they can pose to human health in terms of cytotoxicity, genotoxicity, mutagenicity, neurotoxicity oestrogenicity or others are also discussed. Researchers from academia, consultancy firms, governmental organizations, and cosmetic companies should carry out further progress to keep updating the consumers regarding the dark-sides, and health-related harmful apprehensions of cosmetics. In addition, the industry-motivated initiatives to abate environmental impact through green, sustainable and eco-friendly product development grasp significant perspective.

Undeclared formaldehyde levels in patient consumer products: formaldehyde test kit utility

PURPOSE

Formaldehyde allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) may be due to products with free formaldehyde or formaldehyde-releasing agents; however, assessment of formaldehyde levels in such products is infrequently conducted. The present study quantifies total releasable formaldehyde from "in-use" products associated with formaldehyde ACD and tests the utility of commercially available formaldehyde spot test kits.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Personal care products from 2 patients with ACD to formaldehyde were initially screened at the clinic for formaldehyde using a formaldehyde spot test kit. Formaldehyde positive products were sent to the laboratory for confirmation by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. In addition, 4 formaldehyde spot test kits were evaluated for potential utility in a clinical setting.

RESULTS

Nine of the 10 formaldehyde spot test kit positive products obtained from formaldehyde allergic patients had formaldehyde with total releasable formaldehyde levels ranging from 5.4 to 269.4 µg/g. Of these, only two shampoos tested listed a formaldehyde-releasing agent in the ingredients or product literature. Subsequently, commercially available formaldehyde spot test kits were evaluated in the laboratory for ability to identify formaldehyde in personal care products.

CONCLUSIONS

Chemical based formaldehyde spot test were more reliable than the enzymatic based test in identifying product releasable formaldehyde content. It is concluded that product labeled ingredient lists and available information are often inadequate to confirm the potential for formaldehyde exposure and chemical based spot test kits may have utility for identification of potential formaldehyde exposure from personal care products.

Cosmetics Preservation: A Review on Present Strategies

Cosmetics, like any product containing water and organic/inorganic compounds, require preservation against microbial contamination to guarantee consumer’s safety and to increase their shelf-life. The microbiological safety has as main goal of consumer protection against potentially pathogenic microorganisms, together with the product’s preservation resulting from biological and physicochemical deterioration. This is ensured by chemical, physical, or physicochemical strategies. The most common strategy is based on the application of antimicrobial agents, either by using synthetic or natural compounds, or even multifunctional ingredients. Current validation of a preservation system follow the application of good manufacturing practices (GMPs), the control of the raw material, and the verification of the preservative effect by suitable methodologies, including the challenge test. Among the preservatives described in the positive lists of regulations, there are parabens, isothiasolinone, organic acids, formaldehyde releasers, triclosan, and chlorhexidine. These chemical agents have different mechanisms of antimicrobial action, depending on their chemical structure and functional group’s reactivity. Preservatives act on several cell targets; however, they might present toxic effects to the consumer. Indeed, their use at high concentrations is more effective from the preservation viewpoint being, however, toxic for the consumer, whereas at low concentrations microbial resistance can develop.

A novel mass spectrometric method for formaldehyde in children's personal-care products and water via derivatization with acetylacetone

RATIONALE

New legislation in the state of Minnesota prohibits the sale of children's personal-care products (PCPs) that contain more than 500 ng/mg formaldehyde. Previous attempts to quantify formaldehyde in PCPs use nonspecific derivatization procedures that employ harsh reagents and/or nonspecific detection. Derivatization of formaldehyde by acetylacetone occurs under mild conditions and is specific for formaldehyde but it has not been investigated using high-performance liquid chromatography/tandem mass-spectrometry (HPLC/MS/MS).

METHODS

To determine formaldehyde, PCPs were dissolved and then interferences were minimized by graphitized-carbon solid-phase extraction. Formaldehyde was derivatized to 3,5-diacetyl-1,4-dihydrolutidine (DDL) using an acetylacetone solution. Post-derivatization, samples were diluted and analyzed by HPLC/MS/MS. Quantification was performed by isotopic dilution. Product-ion spectra were acquired for DDL and D₁₂ -DDL. The mass shifts between the two product-ion spectra were used to assign fragment structures. To confirm molecular formulas, high-resolution accurate-mass analysis of the DDL product ions was performed by quadrupole time-of-flight MS.

RESULTS

Structures were proposed for all product ions of DDL above 10% relative intensity. Method accuracy ranged between 96-104% for all matrices at all concentrations tested. Method precision was less than 4% relative standard deviation. The reporting limit was 10 ng/mg in PCPs and 100 μg/L in water. Twenty children's PCPs were tested to demonstrate the method and formaldehyde was reported in five from 23-1500 ng/mg. Of those five, two samples contained formaldehyde above the Minnesota regulatory limit.

CONCLUSIONS

The developed method allows for the accurate quantification of formaldehyde in PCPs at levels below those required by a new regulation on children's products in Minnesota. The method includes a derivatization procedure that is newly adapted to HPLC/MS/MS; therefore, structures were proposed for the product ions of the derivative (DDL). Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Using thermal desorption electrospray ionization mass spectrometry to rapidly determine antimicrobial preservatives in cosmetics

RATIONALE

Characterization and quantification of permitted preservatives are important inspections to prevent the overuse of preservatives in authentic formulations. However, the complexity of sample matrices makes preservative determination in cosmetics a tedious process. A rapid analytical strategy to identify preservatives would insure large numbers of products are in compliance with government regulations.

METHODS

Thermal desorption electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (TD-ESI-MS) was used to directly detect preservative compounds in authentic formulations without sample pretreatment. The technique employs a metal probe, which was configured for sampling cosmetics in their original states and was inserted in a closed preheated oven to thermally desorb analytes. The desorbed analytes were then carried by a nitrogen gas stream into an ESI plume, where the formed ions were subsequently detected by the mass analyzer.

RESULTS

The TD-ESI mass and tandem mass spectra of different classes of preservative standards were rapidly obtained, and the limits of detection were far below the legal limit of their respective concentrations. The preservatives were also directly detected in different types of authentic formulations in the absence of sample preparation, and within a few seconds per sample. Calibration curves for preservatives in four common formulations yielded good linearity in the regulation-allowed range.

CONCLUSIONS

Due to its sensitivity, short analysis time, repeatability, and quantitative ability, TD-ESI-MS may serve as a suitable tool for large-scale screening of cosmetic preservatives to assure product safety. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Cytotoxicity, haemolymphatic parameters, and oxidative stress following exposure to sub-lethal concentrations of quaternium-15 in Mytilus galloprovincialis

The presence of a xenobiotic in the environment can often represent a risk for living organisms. Quaternium-15, a preservative, is one of the most used substances and is added to several cosmetics and other industrial products. For this reason,kwowing the bio-indicator of the marine environment, the toxicological effects potentially elicited by this preservative on the marine invertebrate Mytilus galloprovincialis were studied. The results of this work confirm that quaternium-15, used at 0.1 and 1mg/l concentrations, while metabolized in M. galloprovincialis, causes a decrease in cellular viability, and remarkable changes to the defense and antioxidant system. In fact, haemocyte viability is dramatically reduced, and haemolymphatic parameter measurements indicate a stress on the animal. Moreover, an increase in radical species production, in Thiobarbituric Acid Reactive Species (TBARS) concentration, and in the Heat Shock Protein 70 amount, were observed in hepatopancreas. These changes suggest that the antioxidant systems are activated to overwhelm the oxidative damage induced by quaternium-15. Quaternium-15 jeopardizes both the defense and antioxidant systems. These results provide essential information with the biological fate of quaternium-15 in aquatic organisms, and confirm that biomarkers represent an important tool for modern environmental assessments as they can help with the prediction of pollutants involved in the monitoring program.

Evaluation of Functionality and Biological Responses of Mytilus galloprovincialis after Exposure to Quaternium-15 (Methenamine 3-Chloroallylochloride)

Although the irritant effects of quaternium-15 have been established, little is known about the toxicological consequences induced by this xenobiotic on aquatic invertebrates. The present article reports toxicological, histological and physiological effects of quaternium-15 following the exposure of Mytilus galloprovincialis for 18 days at three different concentrations (0.1, 1.0 and 2.0 mg/L). The results demonstrate that at higher concentrations histological damages to M. galloprovincialis gills occur, like melanosis, light exfoliations, increase of mucus production and infiltrative inflammation. In addition digestive gland cells of M. galloprovincialis, were not able to perform the regulation volume decrease (RVD) owing to osmotic stress following the exposure to the preservative. Overall, this first study on quaternium-15 highlights that it can jeopardize both the morphology and vital physiological processes in marine invertebrates, depending on the duration of exposure and the concentration of the preservative, indicating that further studies are necessary to increase our knowledge about the effects of this substance, commonly added to our products of daily use.