Variation in the activities of late stage filaggrin processing enzymes, calpain-1 and bleomycin hydrolase, together with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid levels, corneocyte phenotypes and plasmin activities in non-sun-exposed and sun-exposed facial stratum corneum of different ethnicities

Senescence Rejuvenation through Reduction in Mitochondrial Reactive Oxygen Species Generation by Polygonum cuspidatum Extract: In Vitro Evidence

Oxidative stress caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) is one of the major causes of senescence. Strategies to reduce ROS are known to be important factors in reversing senescence, but effective strategies have not been found. In this study, we screened substances commonly used as cosmetic additives to find substances with antioxidant effects. Polygonum cuspidatum (P. cuspidatum) extract significantly reduced ROS levels in senescent cells. A novel mechanism was discovered in which P. cuspidatum extract reduced ROS, a byproduct of inefficient oxidative phosphorylation (OXPHOS), by increasing OXPHOS efficiency. The reduction in ROS by P. cuspidatum extract restored senescence-associated phenotypes and enhanced skin protection. Then, we identified polydatin as the active ingredient of P. cuspidatum extract that exhibited antioxidant effects. Polydatin, which contains stilbenoid polyphenols that act as singlet oxygen scavengers through redox reactions, increased OXPHOS efficiency and subsequently restored senescence-associated phenotypes. In summary, our data confirmed the effects of P. cuspidatum extract on senescence rejuvenation and skin protection through ROS reduction. This novel finding may be used as a treatment in senescence rejuvenation in clinical and cosmetic fields.

Natural moisturising factor constituents in South African nursing students

BACKGROUND

The majority of South African healthcare workers are Black Africans with dark-pigmented skin. Studies on how the markers of skin barrier function and natural moisturising factor (NMF) compare between dark and light-pigmented skin are limited. Quantifying NMF in a nursing student population during their practical training at university may provide valuable insight into their potential susceptibility to skin conditions associated with low NMF.

OBJECTIVES

The objectives of this study were to quantify and compare NMF content of Black African, Mixed Race and White nursing students from their dominant dorsal hand.

METHODS

Forty-nine White, 32 Black African and 5 Mixed Race nursing students participated in this study. Tape strip samples were collected from the participants' dominant dorsal hand and NMF content was measured, including histidine (HIS), pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), trans-urocanic acid (t-UCA) and cis-urocanic acid (c-UCA), as well as cytokines interleukin-1 alpha (IL-1α) and interleukin-1 receptor antagonist (IL-1RA).

RESULTS

No statistically significant differences in PCA, t-UCA, c-UCA, IL-1α or IL-1RA were found between Black African and White nursing students. HIS was significantly (p = 0.001) higher in White nursing students when compared to Black African students. The ratio of tot-UCA/HIS was significantly higher in Black Africans (p = 0.0002) when compared to White nursing students.

CONCLUSION

No significant differences were established in NMF content between White and Black African nursing students, other than HIS which was significantly higher in White students than in Black African students. Different HIS levels between the racial groups suggest variation in histidase activity which may be related to skin pH and pigmentation. This finding may suggest that nursing students at the beginning of their careers may have similar susceptibility to skin diseases related to NMF.

Comparison of real-world treatment outcomes of systemic immunomodulating therapy in atopic dermatitis patients with dark and light skin types

Background

Few data exist on differences in treatment effectiveness and safety in atopic dermatitis patients of different skin types.

Objective

To investigate treatment outcomes of dupilumab, methotrexate, and ciclosporin, and morphological phenotypes in atopic dermatitis patients, stratified by Fitzpatrick skin type.

Methods

In an observational prospective cohort study, pooling data from the Dutch TREAT (TREatment of ATopic eczema) NL (treatregister.nl) and UK-Irish A-STAR (Atopic eczema Systemic TherApy Register; astar-register.org) registries, data on morphological phenotypes and treatment outcomes were investigated.

Results

A total of 235 patients were included (light skin types [LST]: Fitzpatrick skin type 1-3, n = 156 [Ethnicity, White: 94.2%]; dark skin types [DST]: skin type 4-6, n = 68 [Black African/Afro-Caribbean: 25%, South-Asian: 26.5%, and Hispanics: 0%]). DST were younger (19.5 vs 29.0 years; P < .001), more often had follicular eczema (22.1% vs 2.6%; P < .001), higher baseline Eczema Area and Severity Index (EASI) scores (20.1 vs 14.9; P = .009), less allergic contact dermatitis (30.9% vs 47.4%; P = .03), and less previous phototherapy use (39.7% vs 59.0%; P = .008). When comparing DST and LST corrected for covariates including baseline EASI, DST showed greater mean EASI reduction between baseline and 6 months with only dupilumab (16.7 vs 9.7; adjusted P = .032). No differences were found for adverse events for any treatments (P > .05).

Limitations

Unblinded, non-randomized.

Conclusion

Atopic dermatitis differs in several characteristics between LST and DST. Skin type may influence treatment effectiveness of dupilumab.

Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare

BACKGROUND

This review covers the last 20 years of research we and our collaborators have conducted on ethnic differences in facial skin moisturization placed in historical context with previous research.

METHODS

We have focussed particularly on the biochemical and cellular gradients of the stratum corneum (SC) with the aim of discovering new skin moisturization and SC maturation mechanisms, identifying new technologies and/or providing conceptual innovations for ingredients that will improve our understanding and treatment of dry skin. Specifically, we discuss gradients for corneodesmosomes and proteases, corneocyte phenotype-inducing enzymes, filaggrin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and barrier lipids. These gradients are interdependent and influence greatly corneocyte maturation.

RESULTS

The interrelationship between corneodesmolysis and the covalent attachment of ω-hydroxy ceramides and ω-hydroxy fatty acids to the corneocyte protein envelope forming the corneocyte lipid envelope is especially relevant in our new understanding of mechanisms leading to dry skin. This process is initiated by a linoleoyl-ω-acyl ceramide transforming enzyme cascade including 12R lipoxygenase (12R-LOX), epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3), epoxide hydrolase 3 (EPHX3), short-chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7), ceramidase and transglutaminase 1.

CONCLUSION

Our research has opened the opportunity of using novel treatment systems for dry skin based on lipids, humectants, niacinamide and inhibitors of the plasminogen system. It is clear that skin moisturization is a more complex mechanism than simple skin hydration.

Changes in levels of omega-O-acylceramides and related processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facial stratum corneum in differently pigmented ethnic groups

INTRODUCTION

We report on the differences in ceramide composition and levels of omega-O-acylceramide processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facialstratum corneum (SC) among Albino African, Black African and Caucasian women living in South Africa.

METHODS

Tape strippings were taken from the sun-exposed cheek and the sunprotected postauricular site (PA). In two subsets proteomic (n = 18) and lipidomic (n = 24) analysis were performed using mass-spectrometry-based shotgun platforms.

RESULTS

No significant differences in total ceramide levels or ceramide subtypes were found between the Black African and Caucasian women in either the cheek or PA samples. Compared to the other two groups the levels of total ceramide as well as selected omega-O-acylceramide species were increased in Albino Africans. On the cheek, ceramide (CER) EOS, EOH along with CER AS were increased relative to the Caucasian women, while CER EOP and EOdS were elevated relative to the Black African women. Moreover, on the PA site CER EOP and EOdS were elevated compared with the Black African women and CER EOdS in Caucasians. Decreasesin masslevels of 12R-LOX and eLOX3 were observed on cheeks compared with the PA sites in all ethnic groups. On the PA sites 12R-LOX was particularly lower in the Albino Africans compared with the Black African and Caucasian women. On the cheeks mass levels of SDR9C7 was also lower in the Albino Africans.

CONCLUSION

The mass levels of the ceramides were similar between Black African and Caucasian women. However, elevated total ceramides and excessively elevated selected omega-O-acylceramides were apparent in the Albino African women. The findings in the Albino African women were unexpected as these participants suffer from impaired skin barrier function. However, the elevated levels omega-O-acylceramides can contribute to barrier insufficiency by directly impacting SC lipid phase behaviour and/or secondly elevated omegaO-acylceramide levels may indicate a reduced attachment of ceramides to the corneocyte lipid envelope and reduced corneocyte maturation that can also impair the barrier. Indeed, differences in the mass levels of omega-O-acylceramide processing enzymes were observed for 12R-LOX and SDR9C7 for the Albino Africans. This indicates a corneocyte lipid scaffold disorder in this population.

Relationship between lip skin biophysical and biochemical characteristics with corneocyte unevenness ratio as a new parameter to assess the severity of lip scaling

Objective

Lip skin dryness and chapping are major concerns related to lip skin care in many populations. The distinctive features of lip skin, such as the low water‐holding capacity and weak skin barrier, are strongly associated with these problems; however, few studies have examined lip skin characteristics and the mechanisms underlying these issues. This study was conducted to identify the biophysical properties of dry lip skin and molecular targets affecting lip skin physiology.

Methods

Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss and lip skin scaling were evaluated in 40 female subjects. Skin scaling was assessed as a percentage area divided into five categories (G0, G1, G2, G3 and G4) according to the thickness level of tape‐stripped corneocytes. The activities and amounts of proteases, cathepsin D and bleomycin hydrolase were measured as markers for the desquamation process and skin hydration, respectively.

Results

Skin hydration showed a significantly positive correlation with the percentage area of evenly thin corneocytes (G0) and negative correlations with the percentage areas of slightly thick to severely thick corneocytes (G1‐G4). The corneocyte unevenness ratio (CUR) was calculated by dividing the sum of the G1, G2, G3 and G4 values with the G0 value. The CUR was significantly negatively correlated with skin hydration, suggesting that CUR is a new parameter representing the severity of lip scaling. Subjects with lower hydration and higher CUR had higher bleomycin hydrolase activity and lower cathepsin D activity, respectively, than subjects with higher hydration and lower CUR.

Conclusion

Our study revealed a correlation between lip skin hydration and severity of lip scaling and verified the association of protease activity with the hydration and chapping state of lip skin. These observations provide a basis for further studies of the persistent problem of lip skin dryness and chapping.

Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations

Age-related differences in maturation parameters of corneocyte envelopes (size, hydrophobicity and rigidity) were examined at several facial test sites in young and old female Caucasians. In addition, the effect of topically applied niacinamide on these parameters was evaluated in a 4-week placebo-controlled study.

Facial skin mapping: from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types

Dry skin is one of the most important concerns of consumers worldwide. Despite huge efforts over several decades, the personal care industry still does not offer a perfect solution to satisfy the unmet needs of consumers for moisturising treatments in different ethnic groups. The paucity of data for the underlying cellular and biochemical problems in, and the effects of moisturisers on photodamaged facial skin may partly explain this. Mainly, single point measurements are used to understand the effects of products on skin physiology even on surrogate skin sites such as the non‐photodamaged volar forearm. Some groups have developed discontinuous facial maps of skin biophysical properties, however, in 2014 a continuous facial analysis of bio‐instrumental evaluations was developed using a heat map approach. These maps enabled a continuous visualization of features that not only revealed an unexpected complexity of facial skin but also indicated that use of surrogate skin sites for facial skin is inappropriate. We have demonstrated that remarkable gradients of skin hydration, TEWL, skin surface pH and sebum exist within short distances across the face and the gradients are distinctive among different ethnic groups. In addition, these studies have demonstrated that darkly‐pigmented individuals do not necessarily have a better skin barrier function than their less‐pigmented counterparts and that Caucasians have a lower facial skin surface pH compared with more pigmented subjects. Overall, there are no correlations between capacitance, TEWL and skin surface pH including individual topology angle values. Novel 3D camera approaches have also been used to facilitate a more precise assignment of measurement sites and visualisation. The 3D facial colour mappings illustrated precisely the local moisturising effects of a moisturising cream. There were subtle ethnic differences in efficacy that may be related to underlying skin biochemistry and/or ethnic differences in product application. A placebo‐controlled study using conductance measurements in Chinese subjects is also reported. Finally, a new whole face statistical approach has been taken to prove differences in skin parameters but also of moisturiser treatment that adds further to our understanding of the ethnic differences in skin physiology and product application. This paper reviews the background of the development and application of this methodology.

In vivo Change of Keratin-Bound Molecules in the Human Stratum Corneum following Exposure to Ultraviolet Radiation

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation damages the stratum corneum (SC) and disrupts the skin barrier. The damaged skin changes in the molecular composition of the SC, including its water content. However, it is difficult to examine the in vivo SC changes with existing methods, so those have not been well characterized. Therefore, we investigated in vivo changes of UV-induced SC damage using confocal Raman spectroscopy.

METHOD

We irradiated the volar forearm of 10 subjects with 0.5, 1, and 1.5 minimal erythemal doses of UV radiation. Then, we examined erythema, the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the water content, the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and the lipids of the skin.

RESULTS

After UV irradiation, erythema and TEWL of the skin were both increased. The bound water content of the SC was also increased following UV irradiation. The NMF of the SC revealed different tendencies. All free amino acids (FAAs) of the NMF were increased after UV irradiation, except proline. trans-urocanic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactate, and urea, which are NMF components produced by the subsequent catabolism of FAAs and sweat, were decreased after UV irradiation. The amount of ceramide in the SC was also decreased after UV exposure, while cholesterol was increased.

CONCLUSIONS

The bound water content of the SC was increased by UV exposure along with increasing TEWL, several NMF components, and cholesterol. These in vivo results for UV-damaged SC obtained via Raman spectroscopy could be applied to research with regard to protecting the SC from UV radiation and treating UV-damaged SC.

12R-lipoxygenase activity is reduced in photodamaged facial stratum corneum. A novel activity assay indicates a key function in corneocyte maturation

Background

During the late stage of keratinocyte differentiation, corneocytes gain a strong protein–lipid structure: the corneocyte envelopes (CE), composed of the inner corneocyte protein envelope (CPE) and the outer corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE). The hydrophobicity of CEs depends on the covalent attachment of linoleoyl‐acyl‐ceramides by transglutaminases (TG). These ceramides are processed by a range of other enzymes, including 12R‐lipoxygenase (12R‐LOX), before the covalent attachment of the free ω‐hydroxyceramides to the CPE surface to form the CLE. The mechanical strength of CE is obtained with the formation of isodipeptide bonds by TG. The increase in hydrophobicity and rigidity leads to CE maturation which supports the integrity and mechanical resistance of the stratum corneum (SC).

Objectives

The aim of this work was to develop and validate a novel enzyme activity assay for 12R‐LOX in tape strippings of photo‐exposed (PE) cheek and photo‐protected (PP) post‐auricular SC of healthy Chinese volunteers (n = 12; age 25 ± 3 years).

Results

A fluorescence‐based assay was developed with ethyl linoleic acid as the substrate and a polyclonal antibody against 12R‐LOX as an inhibitor. The specificity was shown by the lack of effect by a LOX inhibitor (ML351) and an epidermal‐type lipoxygenase 3 (eLOX3) antibody on the acquired 12R‐LOX activity. Reduced 12R‐LOX activity was observed in the outer compared to the inner SC layers. Moreover, dramatically lower activity was shown in the PE vs. PP samples. Furthermore, the enzyme activity has a positive correlation (r = 0.94 ± 0.03) with CE maturity, in particular hydrophobicity, and a negative correlation (r = −0.96 ± 0.01) with transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Conclusion

This novel enzyme assay revealed a lower 12R‐LOX activity in tape strippings from PE cheek for the first time. This finding is in line with less mature CEs and higher TEWL compared to PP post‐auricular samples. This study indicates a strong link between 12R‐LOX activity and CE maturation and SC integrity.

Appearance of aging signs in differently pigmented facial skin by a novel imaging system

Background

Facial wrinkles, pores, and uneven skin tone are major beauty concerns. There is differential manifestation of aging signs in different ethnic groups. In this regard, studies on Black Africans from the African continent are scarce.

Objective

To investigate facial wrinkles, pores, and skin tone in Black African women from Mauritius Island and elucidate the differences to Caucasian women from France.

Methods

Facial images were taken using the imaging system ColorFace^®. Wrinkles and pores were measured by their length, depth, surface, volume, and number; for skin tone, we measured L*a*b* and calculated ITA, IWA_Newtone, and color homogeneity.

Results

We found good correlations of wrinkle and pore scores with expert ranking done on ColorFace^® images for Caucasians (Spearman's rho = 0.78 and 0.72) and Black Africans (Spearman's rho = 0.86 and 0.65). Caucasians showed more advanced facial signs of aging than Black Africans. Exceptions were vertical lines on upper lip and the depth of pores which were greatest for the Black African subjects. Black Africans had higher heterogeneity scores indicative for uneven skin tone. Luminance (L*) was significantly higher in Caucasians but a* and b* values were significantly higher in the Black African subjects. ITA and IWA_Newtone were significantly higher for Caucasians.

Conclusions

The high correlation between expert ranking and wrinkle and pore measurements prove ColorFace^® a valid imaging system to study skin aging. Our results show that Africans from the African continent show delayed signs of aging compared to Caucasians. Some exceptions suggest that ethnic differences in facial aging are a complex phenomenon.

Early-life regional and temporal variation in filaggrin-derived natural moisturizing factor, filaggrin-processing enzyme activity, corneocyte phenotypes and plasmin activity: implications for atopic dermatitis

Background

Filaggrin is central to the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis (AD). The cheeks are a common initiation site of infantile AD. Regional and temporal expression of levels of filaggrin degradation products [natural moisturizing factors (NMFs)], activities of filaggrin‐processing enzymes [bleomycin hydrolase (BH) and calpain‐1 (C‐1)] and plasmin, and corneocyte envelope (CE) maturity in early life are largely unknown.

Objectives

We conducted a cross‐sectional, observational study investigating regional and age‐dependent variations in NMF levels, activity of proteases and CE maturity in stratum corneum (SC) from infants to determine whether these factors could explain the observed predilection sites for AD in early life.

Methods

We measured NMF using a tape‐stripping method at seven sites in the SC of 129 children (aged < 12 months to 72 months) and in three sites in 56 neonates and infants (< 48 h to 3 months). In 37 of these neonates and infants, corneocyte size, maturity, BH, C‐1 and plasmin activities were determined.

Results

NMF levels are low at birth and increase with age. Cheek SC, compared with elbow flexure and nasal tip, has the lowest NMF in the first year of life and is the slowest to reach stable levels. Cheek corneocytes remain immature. Plasmin, BH and C‐1 activities are all elevated by 1 month of age in exposed cheek skin, but not in elbow skin.

Conclusions

Regional and temporal differences in NMF levels, CE maturity and protease activities may explain the predilection for AD to affect the cheeks initially and are supportive of this site as key for allergen priming in early childhood. These observations will help design early intervention and treatment strategies for AD.

What's already known about this topic?

Atopic dermatitis (AD) frequently starts in early infancy, and the first eczematous lesions emerge on the cheeks.

Filaggrin is a major structural protein in the stratum corneum (SC).

Filaggrin deficiency is associated with the development of AD and, in the context of AD, food allergies and asthma.

Filaggrin is metabolized into natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), which can be measured in the SC.

What does this study add?

Regional differences in NMF levels, corneocyte envelope immaturity and protease activities may help explain why infantile AD most often initially affects the cheeks.

Filaggrin processing, corneocyte maturity, and protease activities show regional and temporal differences in infant skin.

These findings may explain disease patterns in early‐life AD.

What is the translational message?

Cheek skin may be highly relevant for allergen priming.

Emollient therapy at the vulnerable cheek site might help to prevent AD and/or food sensitization.

Linked Editorial: https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16806.

https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16959 available online

https://goo.gl/Uqv3dl

A new approach to assess the effect of photodamage on corneocyte envelope maturity using combined hydrophobicity and mechanical fragility assays

BACKGROUND

The maturity of the corneocyte envelope (CE) provides information about the barrier functionality of the stratum corneum (SC). Corneocytes are enclosed by the CE, a protein-lipid matrix, contributing to mechanical resistance and hydrophobicity of the SC.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of the work was to develop a novel and robust approach to characterize CE maturity based on rigidity, hydrophobicity and surface area. This offers an alternative approach to the Nile red staining and antigenicity of involucrin to characterize the CE. The photoexposed (PE) cheek and photoprotected (PP) post-auricular sites were selected for investigation.

METHODS

Nine tape strips were obtained from the cheek and post-auricular sites of healthy Caucasians. CEs on the first and last tape strip were subjected to sonication to assess rigidity, and Nile red staining to determine hydrophobicity per unit surface area. In addition, the presence of involucrin and lipids was assessed to determine CE maturity by examination of the red/green pixel ratio, percentage of involucrin expressing CEs and alternatively the ratio of fluorescence density.

RESULTS

The CE rigidity was lower in the deeper SC layers of the cheek, whereas post-auricular CEs were mechanically more resistant. Post-auricular CEs from the superficial SC had a larger surface area with a stronger fluorescence signal than those from the cheek. Interestingly, those CEs from the deeper SC layers had similar surface areas in both anatomical sites but were significantly different in hydrophobicity. These three parameters can be summarized as a relative CE maturity index that expresses CE maturity more precisely with a higher sensitivity than the conventional involucrin and Nile red staining approach. CEs of the cheek surface are more mature than CEs in the deeper SC layer, whereas CEs obtained from the post-auricular surface are more mature than those from the cheek surface.

CONCLUSION

The combined method developed allows characterization of CE maturity based on hydrophobicity per unit surface area and rigidity rather than a simple ratio of lipid to involucrin. A more robust and sensitive measurement has therefore been developed addressing the limitations of earlier protocols.

The effect of photodamage on the female Caucasian facial stratum corneum corneome using mass spectrometry-based proteomics

BACKGROUND

The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood.

OBJECTIVE

To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular (PA) site, a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a better understanding of keratinocyte signalling pathways and identification of new molecular targets for the treatment of photoaged skin.

METHODS

Female Caucasian subjects had nine consecutive tape strippings taken from their cheeks and PA site. Proteins were extracted and the trypsin-digested peptides were analysed by nanochromatography coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer. Data-dependent acquisition allowed protein identification that was processed by Paragon algorithm of Protein Pilot software.

RESULTS

Changes in the levels of epidermal differentiation proteins were apparent indicating poor epidermal differentiation and SC maturation (keratins, cornified envelope (CE) proteins) on photoexposed cheeks. Differences in protease-anti-protease balance were observed for corneodesmolysis (favouring desquamation) and filaggrinolysis (favouring reduced filaggrin processing). 12R-LOX, a CE maturation enzyme, was reduced in photodamaged skin but not transglutaminases. Changes in signal keratinocyte transduction pathway markers were demonstrated especially by reduced levels of downstream signalling markers such as calreticulin (unfolded protein response; UPR) and increased level of stratifin (target of rapamycin; mTOR). Evidence for impaired proteostasis was apparent by reduced levels of a key proteasomal subunit (subunit beta type-6). Finally, key antioxidant proteins were upregulated except catalase.

CONCLUSION

Clear examples of poor keratinocyte differentiation and associated metabolic and signalling pathways together with reduced SC maturation were identified in photodamaged facial SC. Corneocyte immaturity was evident with changes in CE proteins. Particularly, the reduction in 12R-LOX is a novel finding in photodamaged skin and supports the lack of SC maturation. Moreover, filaggrinolysis was reduced, whereas corneodesmolysis was enhanced. From our results, we propose that there is a poor cross-talk between the keratinocyte endoplasmic reticulum UPR, proteasome network and autophagy machinery that possibly leads to impaired keratinocyte proteostasis. Superimposed on these aberrations is an apparently enhanced mTOR pathway that also contributes to reduced SC formation and maturation. Our results clearly indicate a corneocyte scaffold disorder in photodamaged cheek SC.

Effect of allergens and irritants on levels of natural moisturizing factor and corneocyte morphology

BACKGROUND

The irritant sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is known to cause a decrease in the stratum corneum level of natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which in itself is associated with changes in corneocyte surface topography.

OBJECTIVE

To explore this phenomenon in allergic contact dermatitis.

METHODS

Patch testing was performed on patients with previously positive patch test reactions to potassium dichromate (Cr), nickel sulfate (Ni), methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI)/methylisothiazolinone (MI), or p-phenylenediamine. Moreover, a control (pet.) patch and an irritant (SLS) patch were applied. After 3 days, the stratum corneum from tested sites was collected, and NMF levels and corneocyte morphology, expressed as the amount of circular nanosize objects, quantified according to the Dermal Texture Index (DTI), were determined.

RESULTS

Among allergens, only MCI/MI reduced NMF levels significantly, as did SLS. Furthermore, only MCI/MI caused remarkable changes at the microscopic level; the corneocytes were hexagonal-shaped with pronounced cell borders and a smoother surface. The DTI was increased after SLS exposure but not after allergen exposure.

CONCLUSIONS

MCI/MI significantly decreased NMF levels, similarly to SLS. The altered corneocyte morphology suggests that skin barrier damage plays a role in the pathogenesis of MCI/MI contact allergy. The DTI seems to differentiate reactions to SLS from those to the allergens tested, as SLS was the only agent that caused a DTI increase.

The effects of benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe-(4-amidino-benzylamide), a dual plasmin and urokinase inhibitor, on facial skin barrier function in subjects with sensitive skin

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was to optimize the synthesis of the plasmin and urokinase (uPA) inhibitor benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe-(4-amidino-benzylamide) (BSFAB), to characterize its activity and mechanism of action and to assess its use to improve stratum corneum (SC) barrier function.

METHODS

Peptide coupling methods were used to synthesize BSFAB, and high-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) together with ¹ H- and ¹³ C-nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (NMR) were applied to clarify its structure and determine its purity. Its binding mode was determined by docking studies to the catalytic domains of plasmin and uPA. Inhibition constants (K_i ) were determined by enzyme kinetic studies, and the effect of BSFAB on plasmin, uPA and transglutaminase 1 expression was evaluated in non-cytokine and cytokine-stimulated keratinocytes. A vehicle-controlled clinical study on SC barrier function was conducted on facial skin of subjects with self-perceived sensitive skin.

RESULTS

BSFAB was synthesized with high purity (97.3%). In silico studies indicated that the amidine moiety of BSFAB was anchored in the S1 pocket of both enzymes by binding to Asp189, Ser190 and Gly219, whereas the backbone of the D-Ser residue makes an anti-parallel β-sheet interaction with Gly216. BSFAB was shown to be an effective inhibitor of plasmin and uPA with K_i values of 29 and 25 nM, respectively. BSFAB also inhibited keratinocyte-secreted protease activities in basal (plasmin inhibition 37.7%, P < 0.05 and uPA inhibition 96.6%, P < 0.01) and cytokine-induced conditions (plasmin inhibition 41.1%, P < 0.05 and uPA inhibition 97.0%, P < 0.001) and stimulated the gene expression of transglutaminase 1 in cytokine-stimulated keratinocytes (approximately 4.5 times increased expression, P < 0.01). Clinically, BSFAB was shown to improve SC barrier integrity (P < 0.02 on day 29) and subjective improvements in the perception of healthy skin (P < 0.05 on day 28).

CONCLUSION

BSFAB binds as a reversible competitive inhibitor to the active sites of plasmin and uPA. Additionally, BSFAB positively improved keratinocyte differentiation gene expression (transglutaminase 1). These effects were translated into improvements in SC barrier integrity clinically in subjects with dry and sensitive skin and improved their perception of having a healthy skin condition.

A fundamental investigation into aspects of the physiology and biochemistry of the stratum corneum in subjects with sensitive skin

BACKGROUND

Sensitive skin is a poorly understood skin condition. Defects in stratum corneum (SC) barrier function and/or extrasensory neuronal networks in the epidermis are believed to be involved in the problem.

OBJECTIVES

This study aimed to unravel the relationships between bleomycin hydrolase (BH) and calpain-1 (C-1), pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) levels, corneocyte maturation, transglutaminase (TG) and plasmin activities on the cheeks of subjects with sensitive skin.

METHODS

Forty-eight female Caucasian subjects, Fitzpatrick skin phototypes II-III, with self-perceived sensitive facial skin, were assessed and underwent a capsaicin reactivity test. Expert grading of skin condition was conducted as well as the measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin capacitance, SC cohesion and SC integrity. BH, C-1 and plasmin activities were measured as well as PCA levels, plasmin and TG activity. Differential Nile red and involucrin immunostaining was performed to assess corneocyte maturation and size.

RESULTS

About 52% of the subjects reacted to capsaicin. There were no significant differences between the capsaicin-sensitive and non-capsaicin-sensitive subjects with reference to skin grading, TEWL, skin capacitance and SC cohesion. PCA levels and BH activity were lowest in the capsaicin-sensitive panel (P < 0.05) and were correlated in non-capsaicin-sensitive subjects (r = 0.72). The activity of TG was significantly lower (48%) in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects (P < 0.001) and their corneocytes were less mature and smaller (P ≤ 0.05). SC was estimated to be thinner (6.87 ± 0.28 vs. 8.68 ± 0.26 μm; P = 0.001) in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects with a corresponding shorter SC path length (83.2 ± 4.4 μm and 113.1 ± 4.5 μm; P = 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

Despite the physiological similarities between the two groups of sensitive skin subjects, differences in their biochemistry were clearly evident. Lower levels of PCA, BH and TG activities together with a greater number of smaller and immature corneocytes indicate inferior SC maturation in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects. The reduced maturation of corneocytes and thinner SC likely contributes to a greater penetration of capsaicin and the associated increased skin sensitivity.