Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti-redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin

Utilizing self-report diaries to explore task time distribution of school nurses in UAE

OBJECTIVE

This study aims to evaluate the roles and tasks of school nurses in the UAE, quantify the time spent on each, and identify areas for improvement in school health services. This aligns with the UAE government's initiative to enhance primary healthcare, focusing on illness prevention and health promotion for children and adolescents.

METHODS

The research adopts an observational study design, utilizing self-observation through diary recordings by school nurses to collect data on their daily tasks and time allocation. A sample of total of 2024 school nurse activities were recorded and analyzed over 126 days and 1084 h of observation by eight school nurses using self-report diaries. This method allowed for the collection of detailed information on how nursing time is allocated between core and noncore tasks.

RESULTS

In this study a total of 2024 tasks were observed over 1084 h. The findings reveal that core nursing tasks accounted for 78% of activities but only 53% of the total 1084 h observed, while non-nursing tasks, making up 22% of activities, disproportionately consumed 47% of the hours. This discrepancy highlights the inefficiency of time allocation, with non-nursing tasks such as administrative duties taking significantly longer than core patient care tasks.

CONCLUSIONS

The study highlights a significant opportunity to enhance school health services in the UAE by optimizing the allocation of nursing time towards more illness prevention and health promotion interventions. By addressing the identified challenges, including the gaps in nurse competencies and the lack of structured practice frameworks, school health services can be improved.

Eyelash serums: A comprehensive review

BACKGROUND

Eyelash serums, both prescription and over-the-counter, are gaining popularity for enhancing the appearance of eyelashes through various biologically active molecules. Categorized into prostaglandin analogs and non-prostaglandin analogs, these serums claim increased strength, length, luster, and thickness. Current United States law also requires no efficacy or safety assessments by the Food and Drug Administration before approving products for consumer use, potentially posing health risks for patients seeking over-the-counter eyelash enhancements.

AIMS

Our aims include exploring proposed benefits and adverse effects associated with eyelash serums, while providing evidence-based clinical recommendations on their use. We aim to contribute valuable insights to the understanding of eyelash serums and their respective safety considerations.

METHODS

The authors conducted a comprehensive electronic search across databases including PubMed, Embase, Cochrane Central, and Google Scholar to evaluate eyelash serum ingredients. Articles were evaluated by two independent researchers for relevance, and the ingredients discussed were analyzed and given clinical recommendations for eyelash serums based off the Oxford Centre for Evidence-Based Medicine.

RESULTS

Results highlight bimatoprost's efficacy, supported by numerous studies evaluating safety and adverse effects. Other prostaglandin ingredients show potential benefits, but further studies are encouraged to enhance the understanding of respective safety profiles. While non-prostaglandins ingredients show promising data, more studies are needed due to a lack of formal evidence in eyelash serum use.

CONCLUSION

As the cosmeceutical market for eyelash serums is growing, dermatologists need to be knowledgeable about evidence-based information regarding prescription and over-the-counter eyelash serum products before making recommendations to patients.

Stability and release mechanism of double emulsification (W1/O/W2) for biodegradable pH-responsive polyhydroxybutyrate/cellulose acetate phthalate microbeads loaded with the water-soluble bioactive compound niacinamide

Microbeads of biodegradable polyhydroxybutyrate (PHB) offer environmental benefits and economic competitiveness. The aim of this study was to encapsulate a water-soluble bioactive compound, niacinamide (NIA), in a pH-responsive natural matrix composed of PHB and cellulose acetate phthalate (CAP) by double emulsification (W1/O/W2) to improve the encapsulation efficiency (%EE) and loading capacity (%LC). PHB was produced in-house by Escherichia coli JM109 pUC19-23119phaCABA-04 without the inducing agent isopropyl β-D-1-thiogalactopyranoside (IPTG). The influences of PHB and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) concentrations, stirring rate, PHB/CAP ratio and initial NIA concentration on the properties of NIA-loaded pH-responsive microbeads were studied. The NIA-loaded pH-responsive PHB/CAP microbeads exhibited a spherical core-shell structure. The average size of the NIA-loaded pH-responsive microbeads was 1243.3 ± 11.5 μm. The EE and LC were 33.3 ± 0.5 % and 28.5 ± 0.4 %, respectively. The release profiles of NIA showed pH-responsive properties, as 94.2 ± 3.5 % of NIA was released at pH 5.5, whereas 99.3 ± 2.4 % of NIA was released at pH 7.0. The NIA-loaded pH-responsive PHB/CAP microbeads were stable for >90 days at 4 °C under darkness, with NIA remaining at 73.65 ± 1.86 %. A cytotoxicity assay in PSVK1 cells confirmed that the NIA-loaded pH-responsive PHB/CAP microbeads were nontoxic at concentrations lower than 31.3 μg/mL, in accordance with ISO 10993-5.

Effect of Topical Platelet Extract Daily Serum as a Cosmetic Product to Reduce Facial Redness

Objective

The primary objective of this pilot study was to demonstrate the benefits of topical human platelet extract (plated)™ serum for the improvement of persistent facial redness.

Methods

This single-center, open-label pilot study evaluated six subjects using (plated)™ serum containing human platelet extract (HPE) with Renewosome™ technology twice daily for six weeks. The primary efficacy endpoint was a reduction in the Clinical Erythema Assessment (CEA) grade, and a reduction in Patient Subjective Assessment grade at six weeks. Secondary endpoints included an improvement in quality of life related to facial redness, and a reduction in redness by Mexameter™ spectrometry measurement. Safety data included monitoring for adverse events.

Results

Topical HPE serum demonstrated a statistically significant improvement in facial redness at Week 9 when averaging the Mexameter™ spectrometry results across nine regions of the face (p=0.0052). The primary and secondary endpoints were achieved. CEA grade at Week 6 demonstrated that all subjects improved by at least one grade, while one subject improved by two grades. One patient reported dryness. No other adverse effects were observed.

Limitations

Study limitations included a small sample size and lack of darker skin types (Fitzpatrick IV-VI).

Conclusion

This study demonstrates that topical HPE with Renewosome™ technology provides statistically significant reduction in facial redness and is safe and well-tolerated.

The role of macrophages in rosacea: implications for targeted therapies

Introduction

Rosacea, a widespread chronic skin condition, may be influenced by macrophages, key immune cells in the skin, although their exact role is not yet fully understood. This review delves into the function of macrophages, their potential contribution to rosacea pathogenesis, current treatments, and promising macrophage-targeted therapies. It concludes by identifying knowledge gaps and potential areas for future rosacea research.

Method

Leveraging systematic and narrative literature review techniques, we conducted a comprehensive search of databases such as PubMed, Embase, and Web of Science. Utilizing keywords like "rosacea" and "macrophages", we targeted English articles from the last 5 years (2018-2023). We manually checked reference lists of relevant articles for additional studies. We included only articles emphasizing macrophages' role in rosacea and/or the development of related therapies and published within the specified timeframe.

Results

The systematic search of electronic databases yielded a total of 4,263 articles. After applying the inclusion and exclusion criteria, 156 articles were selected for inclusion in this review. These articles included original research studies, review articles, and clinical trials that focused on the role of macrophages in rosacea and/or the development of macrophage-targeted therapies for the disease. The selected articles provided a comprehensive and up-to-date overview of the current state of research on macrophages in rosacea, including their function in the skin, the potential mechanisms through which they may contribute to rosacea pathogenesis, and the current treatments and therapies available for the disease. Additionally, the articles identified gaps in knowledge regarding the role of macrophages in rosacea and suggested potential areas for future research.

Conclusion

This literature review emphasizes the important role that macrophages, vital immune cells in the skin, may play in the pathogenesis of rosacea, a common chronic inflammatory skin disorder. The selected studies suggest potential mechanisms by which these cells might contribute to rosacea progression, although these mechanisms are not yet fully understood. The studies also spotlight current rosacea treatments and illuminate the promising potential of new macrophage-focused therapies. Despite these insights, significant gaps persist in our understanding of the precise role of macrophages in rosacea. Future research in this area could provide further insights into the pathogenesis of rosacea and contribute to the development of more effective, targeted therapeutic strategies.

Systematic Study of Paeonol/Madecassoside Co-Delivery Nanoemulsion Transdermal Delivery System for Enhancing Barrier Repair and Anti-Inflammatory Efficacy

Sensitive skin is defined as skin with low tolerance and high reactivity. Natural products, such as paeoniflorin and madecassoside, have unique skin care functionality. However, because they are hampered by the skin barrier, paeoniflorin and madecassoside have difficulty penetrating the stratum corneum, resulting in weakened skin barrier repair and anti-inflammatory effects. In addition, there is a lack of detailed studies on the efficacy of paeonol and madecassic in human skin, especially in 3D skin models and clinical trials. To overcome the low transdermal delivery issue, we developed nanoemulsions (PM-NEs) loaded with paeonol and madecassoside to improve their delivery efficiency and promote sensitive skin repair and anti-inflammation effects. Furthermore, systematic evaluations of the efficacy in cell line models, 3D skin models, and clinical trials were conducted. The PM-NEs effectively improved the efficacy of paeonol and madecassoside glucoside transdermal penetration and retention and enhanced cellular uptake. Cellular assays and 3D epidermal models showed that the PM-NEs significantly promoted the secretion of filamentous protein, aquaporin 3, Claudin-1, and hyaluronic acid, and considerably inhibited the secretion of interleukin 1α, interleukin 6, tumor necrosis factor-α, and prostaglandin E₂ compared to free components. Notably, clinical trial data showed that the PM-NEs significantly reduced transepidermal water loss, a* values, erythropoietin, the amount of non-inflammatory acne, and the amount of inflammatory acne in the facial skin. Three levels of systematic studies suggest that co-delivery of paeoniflorin and madecassoside via nanoemulsions is a promising strategy to improve topical delivery efficiency and anti-inflammatory repair efficacy in sensitive skin.

The pits

A 71-year-old woman presented with a rash in the bilateral axillae. Histopathology showed hyperkeratosis and parakeratosis with retention of basophilic keratohyalin granules.

Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract associated with octocrylene, bisoctrizole and titanium dioxide: in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate safety and efficacy

OBJECTIVE

The harmful effects induced by ultraviolet exposition and the significant increment in skin cancer diagnosis confirm the necessity to develop effective and safe sunscreens. Limited efficacy and cutaneous adverse reactions of traditional formulations drove the incorporation of natural extracts into multifunctional sunscreens. Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract (VME), that contains anthocyanins and flavonoids, is a potential candidate for such systems.

METHODS

Considering that, we performed in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF), photostability and safety of sunscreen samples containing VME.

RESULTS

As main results, the SPF was reduced in both in vitro and in vivo evaluation in the presence of VME, nonetheless, the samples were photostable and safe.

CONCLUSION

Further investigation is required to better understand the unexpected effects of VME over photoprotection, decreasing the SPF value. As a conclusion, even with interesting findings, we highlight the importance of case-by-case investigations to develop multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.

Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight

OBJECTIVE

Sensitive skin is characterized by self-reported sensory perceptions in response to stimuli that should not provoke unpleasant sensations. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize these symptoms. This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel.

METHODS

A pool of products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel whose label included the expressions 'sensitive skin', 'reactive skin' or 'intolerant skin' were analysed. The active ingredients were identified from product compositions and ranked in descending order of occurrence. The scientific evidence regarding the mechanism of action and efficacy of each ingredient was also compiled.

RESULTS

Eighty-eight products from 19 multinational brands were included. Niacinamide leads the top, followed by Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and Laminaria ochroleuca. Ingredients that can reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier were used in more than half of the products analysed. The clinical studies regarding the active ingredients used in these products remain sparse and lack methodological quality. Among the top ingredients, niacinamide, panthenol and acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester were the only ones studied on volunteers having sensitive skin, while acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester and palmitoyl tripeptide-8 were designed to act on the molecular targets involved in this condition.

CONCLUSION

This study reveals the most used active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin, as well as the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and the mechanisms of action. This insight is meaningful for dermatologists and other health professionals to provide customized advice based on the symptomatology of individuals with sensitive skin, and for the formulation of cosmetic products and design of new active ingredients.

Edible Bird's Nest, an Asian Health Food Supplement, Possesses Moisturizing Effect by Regulating Expression of Filaggrin in Skin Keratinocyte

Edible bird's nest (EBN) has been consumed as a Chinese delicacy for hundreds of years; the functions of which have been proposed to prevent lung disease, strengthen immune response, and restore skin youthfulness. To support the skin function of EBN, the water extract and the enzymatic digest of EBN with enriched digested peptides were tested in cultured keratinocyte, HaCaT cell line. The effects of EBN extract and digest in inducing proteins crucial for skin moisturizing were determined in both in vitro and ex vivo models. In cultured keratinocytes, the expressions of S100-fused type proteins contributing to skin barrier function in the stratum corneum, e.g. filaggrin and filaggrin-2, were determined in both mRNA and protein levels, which were markedly induced in the treatment of EBN extract or digest. The EBN-induced gene transcriptions of filaggrin and filaggrin-2 were mediated by activation of p38 MAPK pathway and various transcription factors, e.g. GATA3, PPARα, PPARβ, and PPARγ: these transcriptional factors were markedly activated by the digested products of EBN, as compared to the extract, in cultured keratinocytes. By using atomic force microscopy (AFM), the EBN-treated keratinocyte was shown to have more liquid-like morphology, as compared to a control cell. The EBN digest showed better induction on these moisturizing effects as compared to the extract. These lines of evidence therefore suggested the water moisturizing effect of EBN in skin function.

Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations

Age-related differences in maturation parameters of corneocyte envelopes (size, hydrophobicity and rigidity) were examined at several facial test sites in young and old female Caucasians. In addition, the effect of topically applied niacinamide on these parameters was evaluated in a 4-week placebo-controlled study.