The clinical identification and quantification of photodamage

A green-based approach for noninvasive skin rejuvenation: Potential application of hyaluronic acid

Gradually, loss of skin elasticity and elastic properties occurs after 30 years of age and will be associated with several changes, including creating wrinkles, skin laxity (sagging skin), and skin blemishes. In general, people all over the world are looking for ways to keep their facial skin young over time. There are several strategies to skin rejuvenate, including invasive and non-invasive methods. However, invasive methods have less popularity than non-invasive methods due to their need for specialist physicians (medical expertise), localized neuropathic pains for patients, the prevalence and incidence of skin infections, and high-cost clinical services. In the meantime, skin hydration is one of the simplest non-invasive methods for skin rejuvenation, and HA, with anti-aging and skin collagen-stimulating properties, has been introduced as a natural skin moisturizing agent. Therefore, since this composition maintains facial skin moisture and radiance, and improves its elasticity, it has always been considered by experts and specialist physicians. On the other hand, due to its lipophilic properties, hydrophilic macromolecules containing HA cannot pass through the stratum corneum. However, they have temporary and superficial softening effects on the skin. Hence, some nanocarriers have been suggested to overcome this problem and develop the properties and positive influences of HA on skin rejuvenation. Therefore, the present study aimed to introduce some new non-invasive approaches in facial skin rejuvenation, including applying liposomes, niosomes, ethosomes, and ionic liquids, to transport HA into the inner and deeper layers of the skin, including Dermis. In this review article, we examine non-invasive methods using nanoparticles to deliver HA to the epidermis and dermis of the skin for skin rejuvenation.

Assessing changes in facial skin quality using noninvasive in vivo clinical skin imaging techniques after use of a topical retinoid product in subjects with moderate-to-severe photodamage

BACKGROUND

Studies utilizing reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) and dynamic optical coherence tomography (D-OCT) to assess cosmetic skin changes are limited.

METHODS

A 12-week, open-label study was conducted using RCM and D-OCT to evaluate the effects of a topical cosmetic retinol (RET05) on subjects with facial photodamage. Study endpoints included investigator grading, standardized (VISIA-CR) and 3D photography (Antera 3D), independent RCM (VivaScope1500) and D-OCT (VivoSight) image analysis, validated FACE-Q scales, and subject questionnaires.

RESULTS

Twenty-three subjects, 45- to 68-year old, with Fitzpatrick skin types II-IV completed the study. After 12 weeks of repeated application, RET05 demonstrated significant corresponding cosmetic improvements for overall photodamage, skin tone unevenness, tactile roughness, fine lines/wrinkles (forehead, periocular, and perioral), and coarse lines/wrinkles (forehead, periocular, and cheeks), and Allergan Skin Roughness Scale. FACE-Q assessments also demonstrated significant improvements from baseline at week 12. RCM analysis showed decreases in all epidermis, less compact stratum corneum (SC), more non-compact SC, decreases in coarse/huddled dermal fibers, and increases in fibrillar dermal fibers, as compared to baseline. D-OCT analysis showed significant decreases in epidermal thickness (ET), reduction of moderate/many collagen fragments and collagen bundles, and significant increases in the stroma attenuation coefficient and collagen density. Moreover, the dermal-epidermal junction was more pronounced, and vascular abundance at 300 and 500 μm depth increased. Independent evaluation of RCM and D-OCT images showed similar decreases in ET and improvements in dermal fibers.

CONCLUSION

This study was the first to utilize RCM and D-OCT to evaluate the cosmetic effects of a topical retinoid and further substantiate improvements in skin quality.

Prospective randomized clinical study of a new topical formulation for face wrinkle reduction and dermal regeneration

BACKGROUND

A new topical formulation (TF) based on 3 main lifting components has been developed to reduce superficial facial wrinkles.

OBJECTIVES

Determine the effectiveness of this new TF in reducing superficial face wrinkles and restructuring the dermal matrix.

METHODS

Women, aged 30-65 y.o. with moderate to severe crow's feet wrinkles were included.

EXCLUSION CRITERIA

men; younger than 30 or older than 65 years old; smokers. Patients received 15 IU of botulinum toxin on crow's feet and 2 creams. Fifty patients (Group 1) applied the TP (Product A) and 50 (Group 2) a placebo (Product B). Assessments were made by digital macro-photography's, Antera 3D, and a patient satisfaction questionnaire.

RESULTS

From April to June 2019, 100 women were enrolled in the study and were divided into two homogeneous groups. No major or minor side effects were reported. In group 1, wrinkles, texture, static and dynamic crow's feet wrinkles improved significantly at 3 and 6 months. Patients were very satisfied at 3 months and satisfied at 6 months. In group 2, wrinkles and texture improved significantly at 3 months but did not improve at 6 months. Static and dynamic crow's feet wrinkles improved significantly at 1 and 3 months but did not improve significantly at 6 months.

CONCLUSIONS

Our prospective and randomized study has shown that the new TF is safe and effective in reducing superficial face wrinkles and producing dermal regeneration. It, therefore, prolongs the duration of the botulinum toxin. Further controlled study would be necessary to compare the new TF to neurotoxin treatment, or its action alone.

Principal component analysis of seven skin-ageing features identifies three main types of skin ageing

BACKGROUND

The underlying phenotypic correlations between wrinkles, pigmented spots (PS), telangiectasia and other related facial-ageing subphenotypes are not well understood.

OBJECTIVES

To analyse the underlying phenotypic correlation structure between seven features for facial ageing: global wrinkling, perceived age (PA), Griffiths photodamage grading, PS, telangiectasia, actinic keratosis (AK) and keratinocyte cancer (KC).

METHODS

This was a cross-sectional study. Facial photographs and a full-body skin examination were used. We used principal component analysis (PCA) to derive principal components (PCs) of common variation between the features. We performed multivariable linear regressions between age, sex, body mass index, smoking and ultraviolet radiation exposure and the PC scores derived from PCA. We also tested the association between the main PC scores and 140 single-nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) previously associated with skin-ageing phenotypes.

RESULTS

We analysed data from 1790 individuals with complete data on seven features of skin ageing. Three main PCs explained 73% of the total variance of the ageing phenotypes: a hypertrophic/wrinkling component (PC1: global wrinkling, PA and Griffiths grading), an atrophic/skin colour component (PC2: PS and telangiectasia) and a cancerous component (PC3: AK and KC). The associations between lifestyle and host factors differed per PC. The strength of SNP associations also differed per component with the most SNP associations found with the atrophic component [e.g. the IRF4 SNP (rs12203592); P-value = 1·84 × 10^-22 ].

CONCLUSIONS

Using a hypothesis-free approach, we identified three major underlying phenotypes associated with extrinsic ageing. Associations between determinants for skin ageing differed in magnitude and direction per component. What's already known about this topic? Facial ageing is a complex phenotype consisting of different features including wrinkles, pigmented changes, telangiectasia and cancerous-related growths; it is not clear how these phenotypes are related to each other and to other phenotypes. A few studies have described two main clinical phenotypes for photoageing, namely hypertrophic ageing and atrophic ageing, which have been based solely on the clinical assessment of photoageing characteristics. What does this study add? We are the first to use epidemiology data to identify three main components associated with photoageing, namely a hypertrophic component (global wrinkling; perceived age; Griffiths grading) and atrophic component (pigmented spots; telangiectasia) and a cancer component (actinic keratosis; keratinocyte cancer). Association analysis showed different effects and direction of environmental determinants and genetic associations with the three components, with the most significant gene variants associations found for the atrophic component.

A prospective study comparing topic platelet-rich plasma vs. placebo on reducing superficial perioral wrinkles and restore dermal matrix

Introduction: The goal of our prospective study was to assess the efficacy of the topical Platelet-rich plasma on reducing superficial perioral wrinkles and restoring the dermal matrix. Materials and methods: 50 women with moderate to severe perioral wrinkles were treated on the perioral area by a single session of fractional CO2 laser skin resurfacing plus intradermal injection of prp. 25 patients (group 1) applied topically prp twice a day for 12 weeks as post laser treatment. 25 (group 2) applied gentamicin and betamethasone twice a day for the first 7 days and then hyaluronic acid gel for the following 12 weeks. Results: In group 1, moisture (p < 0.001), amount of collagen fiber (p < 0.001) skin elasticity (p < 0.001), PSAl (p < 0.001) and SSAl (p < 0.001) improved significantly. In group 2 all the parameters investigated improved but did not reach significant difference. Discussion: Our medical device with a plasma-like formulation is able to maintain prp active for a period of 7 days so patients are able to apply topically growth factors at home. Conclusions: Our prospective study proves that the use of topical prp reduces superficial perioral wrinkles and restore dermal matrix when used at home for 12 weeks.

Molecular Mechanisms of Dermal Aging and Antiaging Approaches

The dermis is primarily composed of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and fibroblasts. During the aging process, the dermis undergoes significant changes. Collagen, which is a major component of ECM, becomes fragmented and coarsely distributed, and its total amount decreases. This is mainly due to increased activity of matrix metalloproteinases, and impaired transforming growth factor-β signaling induced by reactive oxygen species generated during aging. The reduction in the amount of collagen hinders the mechanical interaction between fibroblasts and the ECM, and consequently leads to the deterioration of fibroblast function and further decrease in the amount of dermal collagen. Other ECM components, including elastic fibers, glycosaminglycans (GAGs), and proteoglycans (PGs), also change during aging, ultimately leading to a reduction in the amount of functional components. Elastic fibers decrease in intrinsically aged skin, but accumulate abnormally in photoaged skin. The changes in the levels of GAGs and PGs are highly diverse, and previous studies have reported conflicting results. A reduction in the levels of functional dermal components results in the emergence of clinical aging features, such as wrinkles and reduced elasticity. Various antiaging approaches, including topicals, energy-based procedures, and dermal fillers, can restore the molecular features of dermal aging with clinical efficacy. This review summarizes the current understanding of skin aging at the molecular level, and associated treatments, to put some of the new antiaging technology that has emerged in this rapidly expanding field into molecular context.

Clinical purpura and elastosis and their correlation with skin tears in an aged population

The previous research reported the results of a prospect cohort study that used logistic regression analysis to construct a risk prediction model for skin tears in individuals aged over 65 years. The model identified three baseline individual characteristics (male gender, history of STs, and history of falls) and two baseline skin manifestations (purpura and elastosis) that predicted the risk of dorsal forearm skin tears. This paper outlines the relationships between baseline skin manifestations and the risk of skin tears. Univariable logistic regression analysis was conducted of all the baseline data collected from the same-study participants to identify variables that significantly predicted purpura and elastosis at baseline. Amongst the 173 participants, 71 (41%) developed one or more skin tears, and in these participants, 52 (73.2%) displayed purpura, 41 (57.8%) had elastosis, and 30 (42.3%) exhibited both manifestations of the dorsal forearm at baseline. Four individual characteristics (age, history of skin tears, history of falls, and antiplatelet therapy) and three skin properties (pH, subepidermal low echogenicity band of the forearms, and skin thickness) were found to predict the risk of purpura. Conversely, three individual variables (age, gender, and smoking), three clinical skin variables (uneven skin pigmentation, cutis rhomboidalis nuchae, and history of actinic keratosis) and one skin property variable (collagen type IV) predicted the risk of skin elastosis. Progressive changes to the skin's structural and mechanical properties from the underlying effects of chronological ageing, and environmental and lifestyle-related influences increased the risk of purpura and elastotic skin manifestations and concomitantly increased risk of skin tears amongst participants.

No Causal Association between 25-Hydroxyvitamin D and Features of Skin Aging: Evidence from a Bidirectional Mendelian Randomization Study

Data from in vitro experiments suggest that vitamin D reduces the rate of skin aging, whereas population studies suggest the opposite, most likely due to confounding by UV exposure. We investigated whether there are causal associations between 25-hydroxyvitamin D concentrations and features of skin aging in a bidirectional Mendelian randomization study. In the Rotterdam Study (N = 3,831; 58.2% women, median age 66.5 years) and Leiden Longevity Study (N = 661; 50.5% women, median age 63.1 years), facial skin aging features (perceived age, wrinkling, pigmented spots) were assessed either manually or digitally. Associations between 25-hydroxyvitamin D and skin aging features were tested by multivariable linear regression. Mendelian randomization analyses were performed using single nucleotide polymorphisms identified from previous genome-wide association studies. After meta-analysis of the two cohorts, we observed that higher serum 25-hydroxyvitamin D was associated with a higher perceived age (P-value = 3.6 × 10^-7), more skin wrinkling (P-value = 2.6 × 10^-16), but not with more pigmented spots (P-value = 0.30). In contrast, a genetically determined 25-hydroxyvitamin D concentration was not associated with any skin aging feature (P-values > 0.05). Furthermore, a genetically determined higher degree of pigmented spots was not associated with higher 25-hydroxyvitamin D (P-values > 0.05). Our study did not indicate that associations between 25-hydroxyvitamin D and features of skin aging are causal.

P16INK4a Positive Cells in Human Skin Are Indicative of Local Elastic Fiber Morphology, Facial Wrinkling, and Perceived Age

Senescent cells are more prevalent in aged human skin compared to young, but evidence that senescent cells are linked to other biomarkers of aging is scarce. We counted cells positive for the tumor suppressor and senescence associated protein p16INK4a in sun-protected upper-inner arm skin biopsies from 178 participants (aged 45-81 years) of the Leiden Longevity Study. Local elastic fiber morphology, facial wrinkles, and perceived facial age were compared to tertiles of p16INK4a counts, while adjusting for chronological age and other potential confounders.The numbers of epidermal and dermal p16INK4a positive cells were significantly associated with age-associated elastic fiber morphologic characteristics, such as longer and a greater number of elastic fibers. The p16INK4a positive epidermal cells (identified as primarily melanocytes) were also significantly associated with more facial wrinkles and a higher perceived age. Participants in the lowest tertile of epidermal p16INK4a counts looked 3 years younger than those in the highest tertile, independently of chronological age and elastic fiber morphology.In conclusion, p16INK4a positive cell numbers in sun-protected human arm skin are indicative of both local elastic fiber morphology and the extent of aging visible in the face.

Histopathological study of perilesional skin in patients diagnosed with nonmelanoma skin cancer

BACKGROUND

Epidemiological and clinical data suggest that actinic damage to the skin is an important predictor of skin carcinogenesis.

AIM

To investigate the association of squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) and basal cell carcinoma (BCC) with sun-damage alterations seen by histopathology.

METHOD

In the current prospective study, perilesional skin of SCC or BCC lesions was evaluated for presence of alterations associated with chronic photodamage. Presence of scarring, perineural/perivascular invasion, haemorrhage/haemorrhagic crust, ulceration/erosion and margin involvement were also assessed.

RESULT

Of 6038 included lesions, 4523 (74.9%) were BCCs and 1515 (25.1%) were SCCs. Presence of actinic damage was five times more frequent in SCC than in BCC (OR = 5.29, 95% CI 4.44-6.00, P < 0.001), and diagnosis of SCC was twice as common in photo-exposed than nonphoto-exposed body sites (OR = 2.34, 95% CI 2.03-2.70, P < 0.001). There were twofold higher odds for actinic damage in SCC compared with Bowen disease (OR = 2.015, 95% CI 1.55-2.61, P < 0.001). Assessing the different BCC histological subtypes, we found that nodular BCC had at least twofold higher odds (OR = 2.63, 95% CI 2.09-3.32), infiltrative BCC had 48% higher odds (OR = 1.487, 95% CI 1.18-1.87) and basosquamous BCC had fourfold higher odds (OR = 4.10, 95% CI 3.01-5.57) of having actinic damage compared with superficial BCC.

CONCLUSIONS

Histological verification of ultraviolet-associated alterations in the perilesional skin in patients with NMSC in our study confirms the aetiopathogenic link between sun exposure and epithelial carcinogenesis on a histopathological basis. This correlation was stronger for SCCs than for BCCs.

Effect of the sun on visible clinical signs of aging in Caucasian skin

Objectives

Aging signs can be classified into four main categories: wrinkles/texture, lack of firmness of cutaneous tissues (ptosis), vascular disorders, and pigmentation heterogeneities. During a lifetime, skin will change in appearance and structure not only because of chronological and intrinsic processes but also due to several external factors such as gravity, sun and ultraviolet exposure, and high levels of pollution; or lifestyle factors that have important and obvious effects on skin aging, such as diet, tobacco, illness, or stress. The effect of these external factors leads to progressive degradations of tegument that appear with different kinetics. The aim of this study was to clinically quantify the effect of sun exposure on facial aging in terms of the appearance of new specific signs or in terms of increasing the classical signs of aging.

Materials and methods

This study was carried out on 298 Caucasian women from 30 years to 78 years old. The participants were divided into two groups according to their sun exposure history: 157 women were characterized as sun-seeking, and the other 141 were classified as sun-phobic. This division was made possible by dermatologist grading of heliodermal status on the basis of several observations of classic criteria: wrinkles, sagging, pigmentation heterogeneities, vascular disorders, elastosis, and so on. This work was an opportunity to complete clinical photographic tools by adding in our portfolio new scales for signs observed in the two groups. Thus, 22 clinical parameters were investigated by a panel of twelve trained experts to characterize each woman’s face regarding standardized photographic scales, and thus describe the aging process.

Results

By calculating statistical correlations between the four clinical clusters (wrinkles/texture, ptosis, vascular disorders, and pigmentation disorders), and real age and apparent age on the one hand and heliodermal status on the other hand, we identified a link between each clinical cluster and aging and the photoaging process. By comparing evaluations of clinical signs between the two groups for each 10-year cluster, we demonstrated that whatever the age, a prevalence of pigmentation disorders for the sun-seeking group (ie, pigmentation) is strongly linked to ultraviolet (UV) exposure. Meanwhile, clinical signs of ptosis are linked more to chronological aging and do not present differences between the two groups, nor, therefore, photoaging. Wrinkles and texture are affected by the two aging processes. Finally, clinical signs of vascular disorders present no evolution with age.

Conclusion

Clinical signs of aging are essentially influenced by extrinsic factors, especially sun exposure. Indeed UV exposure seems to be responsible for 80% of visible facial aging signs.

Serum insulin-like growth factor 1 and facial ageing: high levels associate with reduced skin wrinkling in a cross-sectional study

BACKGROUND

Insulin-like growth factor (IGF)-1 is a growth factor that can influence fibroblast functioning, with effects including the inhibition of collagenases and the induction of collagen expression.

OBJECTIVES

To assess whether serum IGF-1, IGF-binding protein (IGFBP)3 and the ratio between IGF-1 and IGFBP3, as a measure of IGF-1 bioavailability, are associated with facial ageing and skin wrinkling.

METHODS

From a random sample comprising 617 subjects from the Leiden Longevity Study, perceived age and skin wrinkling were assessed from facial photographs, and IGF-1 and IGFBP3 were measured in serum. The associations were assessed using linear regression models, adjusted for chronological age, sex, body mass index, smoking and sun exposure.

RESULTS

Across tertiles of the ratio of IGF-1 to IGFBP3, and after adjusting for all potential confounding factors, the mean perceived age decreased from 60·6 years in the lowest tertile to 59·5 years in the highest (P = 0·045). Similarly, the mean skin wrinkling grade decreased from 4·8 in the lowest tertile to 4·5 in the highest (P = 0·011). Adding skin wrinkling as a covariate in the analysis between IGF-1 and perceived age diminished this association.

CONCLUSIONS

This study demonstrates that a higher ratio of IGF-1 to IGFBP3 associates with a lower perceived age, via its association with reduced skin wrinkling. Whether high IGF-1 levels actually delay the accumulation of skin wrinkling now needs investigating.

In the shadow of the wrinkle: theories

As time passes, wrinkles typically appear. These skin depressions that become deeper and deeper draw more and more coarser lines on almost all the visible parts of aging individual's skin. They are indeed the most obvious and maybe disliked signs of skin aging, and thus, preventing and treating them are a major topic for dermo-cosmetic laboratories. However, the cause and occurrence mechanism of these simplistic looking lines are not yet fully understood. Wrinkling is thought to be a complex biophysical process resulting from repeated strains on a progressively, structurally and biochemistry altered aging skin with impaired mechanical properties. Focus is made on the specific histological features of the wrinkle compared to the surrounding aging skin. The numerous age-related changes in human skin that are supposed to be involved in wrinkling are briefly reviewed, and the current theories on wrinkle formation linked to these changes are also discussed.

The determinants of periorbital skin ageing in participants of a melanoma case-control study in the U.K

BACKGROUND

Skin ageing is said to be caused by multiple factors. The relationship with sun exposure is of particular interest because the detrimental cutaneous effects of the sun may be a strong motivator to sun protection. We report a study of skin ageing in participants of an epidemiological study of melanoma.

OBJECTIVES

To determine the predictors of periorbital cutaneous ageing and whether it could be used as an objective marker of sun exposure.

METHODS

Photographs of the periorbital skin in 1341 participants were graded for wrinkles, degree of vascularity and blotchy pigmentation and the resultant data assessed in relation to reported sun exposure, sunscreen use, body mass index (BMI), smoking and the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) gene status. Data were analysed using proportional odds regression.

RESULTS

Wrinkling was associated with age and heavy smoking. Use of higher sun-protection factor sunscreen was protective (P = 0·01). Age, male sex, MC1R variants ('r', P=0·01; 'R', P=0·02), higher reported daily sun exposure (P=0·02), increased BMI (P=0·01) and smoking (P=0·02) were risk factors for hypervascularity. Blotchy pigmentation was associated with age, male sex, higher education and higher weekday sun exposure (P=0·03). More frequent sunscreen use (P=0·02) and MC1R variants ('r', P=0·03; 'R', P=0·001) were protective.

CONCLUSIONS

Periorbital wrinkling is a poor biomarker of reported sun exposure. Vascularity is a better biomarker as is blotchy pigmentation, the latter in darker-skinned individuals. In summary, male sex, sun exposure, smoking, obesity and MC1R variants were associated with measures of cutaneous ageing. Sunscreen use showed some evidence of being protective.

Does a Woman’s Skin Color Indicate Her Fertility Level?

Roberts et al. (2004 ) showed that perceived facial attractiveness of women is higher in the fertile phase of the menstrual cycle than in the luteal phase, suggesting the existence of visible cues of ovulation. However, the nature of such cues remains speculative. Here, in an initial pilot study, we test the hypothesis that changes in female facial skin coloration across the menstrual cycle could be one of the signals that men have adapted to in order to assess female fertility. Spectrophotometric measurements of the facial skin color of normally ovulating Caucasian women (aged 24–29 years) were collected in the late follicular and midluteal phase of their menstrual cycle. Facial images were also taken in both sessions and judged for attractiveness and health by a panel of German men (aged 16–37 years). In line with Roberts et al. (2004 ), our results show that men perceive women in the late follicular phase to be significantly more attractive and healthier than those in the midluteal phase. However, we did not detect any significant differences in objective measurements of skin color between the two phases. We conclude that the increase in male perception of female facial attractiveness and health in the fertile phase of the menstrual cycle is not caused by a change in overall skin color and/or lightness.

Colour homogeneity and visual perception of age, health and attractiveness of male facial skin

BACKGROUND

Visible facial skin condition in females is known to affect perception of age, health and attractiveness. Skin colour distribution in shape- and topography-standardized female faces, driven by localized melanin and haemoglobin, can account for up to twenty years of apparent age perception. Although this is corroborated by an ability to discern female age even in isolated, non-contextual skin images, a similar effect in the perception of male skin is yet to be demonstrated.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the effect of skin colour homogeneity and chromophore distribution on the visual perception of age, health and attractiveness of male facial skin.

METHODS

Cropped images from the cheeks of facial images of 160 Caucasian British men aged 10-70 years were blind-rated for age, health and attractiveness by a total of 308 participants. In addition, the homogeneity of skin images and corresponding eumelanin/oxyhaemoglobin concentration maps were analysed objectively using Haralick's image segmentation algorithm.

RESULTS

Isolated skin images taken from the cheeks of younger males were judged as healthier and more attractive. Perception of age, health and attractiveness was strongly related to melanin and haemoglobin distribution, whereby more even distributions led to perception of younger age and greater health and attractiveness. The evenness of melanized features was a stronger cue for age perception, whereas haemoglobin distribution was associated more strongly with health and attractiveness perception.

CONCLUSIONS

Male skin colour homogeneity, driven by melanin and haemoglobin distribution, influences perception of age, health and attractiveness.

Activation of heparanase by ultraviolet B irradiation leads to functional loss of basement membrane at the dermal-epidermal junction in human skin

Recently, we reported that heparanase plays important roles in barrier-disrupted skin, leading to increased interaction of growth factors between epidermis and dermis and facilitating various cutaneous changes, including epidermal hyperplasia and wrinkle formation. However, the role of heparanase in sun-exposed skin remains unknown. Here, we show that heparanase in human keratinocytes is activated by ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure and that heparan sulfate of perlecan is markedly degraded in UVB-irradiated human skin. The degradation of heparan sulfate resulted in a marked reduction of binding activity of the basement membrane for vascular endothelial growth factor, fibroblast growth factor-2 and -7 at the dermal-epidermal junction. Degradation of heparan sulfate was observed not only in acutely UVB-irradiated skin, but also in skin chronically exposed to sun. Interestingly, heparan sulfate was found to be degraded in sun-exposed skin, but not in sun-protected skin. These findings suggest that chronic UVB exposure activates heparanase, leading to degradation of heparan sulfate in the basement membrane and increased growth factor interaction between epidermis and dermis. These changes may facilitate photo-aging.

The cosmetic treatment of wrinkles

Wrinkles now have a greater social impact because people live longer. Science and hedonism overlap in the search for causes, treatments and prevention of wrinkles. The cosmetic approach to wrinkles includes: i Cleansing ii Photoprotection iii Active ingredients Active ingredients go well beyond simple moisturisers and exert a more complex activity in protecting skin from external injuries, nourishing it and removing its superficial layers. Transport systems and excipients are increasingly effective. Functional agents currently include alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), poly-AHAs, complex poly-AHAs, retinoids, fish polysaccharides, anti-enzymatic agents, antioxidants (including ascorbic acid, pycnogenol, ursolic acid, vegetable isoflavones, vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, lipoic acid, resveratorol, l-carnosine and taurine) as well as agaricic acid and various plant extracts. All are reviewed in this text. Most are topical, some can be given by mouth, even as food supplements. Cosmetics are becoming closer to drugs in preventing and treating wrinkles. Included amongst the cosmeceuticals are the anti-wrinkle agents described herein.

Why some women look young for their age

The desire of many to look young for their age has led to the establishment of a large cosmetics industry. However, the features of appearance that primarily determine how old women look for their age and whether genetic or environmental factors predominately influence such features are largely unknown. We studied the facial appearance of 102 pairs of female Danish twins aged 59 to 81 as well as 162 British females aged 45 to 75. Skin wrinkling, hair graying and lip height were significantly and independently associated with how old the women looked for their age. The appearance of facial sun-damage was also found to be significantly correlated to how old women look for their age and was primarily due to its commonality with the appearance of skin wrinkles. There was also considerable variation in the perceived age data that was unaccounted for. Composite facial images created from women who looked young or old for their age indicated that the structure of subcutaneous tissue was partly responsible. Heritability analyses of the appearance features revealed that perceived age, pigmented age spots, skin wrinkles and the appearance of sun-damage were influenced more or less equally by genetic and environmental factors. Hair graying, recession of hair from the forehead and lip height were influenced mainly by genetic factors whereas environmental factors influenced hair thinning. These findings indicate that women who look young for their age have large lips, avoid sun-exposure and possess genetic factors that protect against the development of gray hair and skin wrinkles. The findings also demonstrate that perceived age is a better biomarker of skin, hair and facial aging than chronological age.

Possible involvement of basement membrane damage in skin photoaging

Aging of sun-exposed skin is accelerated by three major environmental factors: UV radiation, dryness, and oxidation. UV radiation exposure is the most influential factor in skin aging (so-called photoaging). To find ways to protect against damage caused by UV exposure and to delay photoaging, we studied internal changes of sun-exposed skin compared with those of sun-protected skin. We found that the basement membrane (BM) at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) of sun-exposed skin becomes damaged and multilayered and partly disrupted compared with that of sun-protected skin. BM plays important roles in maintaining a healthy epidermis and dermis, and repeated damage destabilizes the skin, accelerating the aging process. Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and urinary plasminogen activator are increased in UV-irradiated skin. MMPs are detected in the cornified layer in sun-exposed skin, but not in sun-protected skin. Using skin-equivalent models, we found that MMPs and plasmin cause BM damage and that the reconstruction of BM is enhanced by inhibiting these proteinases, as well as by increasing the synthesis of BM components. Enhancement of BM repair mechanisms may be a useful strategy in retarding photoaging.Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings (2009) 14, 2-7; doi:10.1038/jidsymp.2009.5.

New insights into skin appearance and measurement

When viewing the human face, the eye is drawn automatically to the areas of uneven topography and high color contrast, and the perception of skin age and attractiveness is dependent on these features. Although it is well recognized that topographic features, such as lines and wrinkles, contribute to the perceived age of skin and many cosmetic procedures are directed toward modifying these, the contribution of color contrast to the perceived age of skin has been less widely studied. A new technique, spectrophotometric intracutaneous analysis, is able to measure and characterize the distribution of chromophores in aging human skin and represents a significant advance in evaluation of the role color contrast plays in perception of the aging human face. This technique may be useful in the assessment of cosmetic interventions to reduce the appearance of aging by modification of skin color.

Color homogeneity and visual perception of age, health, and attractiveness of female facial skin

BACKGROUND

Evolutionary psychology suggests that skin signals aspects of mate value, yet only limited empirical evidence exists for this assertion.

OBJECTIVES

We sought to study the relationship between perception of skin condition and homogeneity of color/chromophore distribution.

METHODS

Cropped skin cheek images from 170 girls and women (11-76 years) were blind-rated for attractiveness, healthiness, youthfulness, and biological age by 353 participants. These skin images and corresponding melanin/hemoglobin concentration maps were analyzed objectively for homogeneity.

RESULTS

Homogeneity of unprocessed images correlated positively with perceived attractiveness, healthiness, and youthfulness (all r > 0.40; P < .001), but negatively with estimated age (r = -0.45; P < .001). Homogeneity of hemoglobin and melanin maps was positively correlated with that of unprocessed images (r = 0.92, 0.68; P < .001) and negatively correlated with estimated age (r = -0.32, -0.38; P < .001).

LIMITATIONS

Female skin only was studied.

CONCLUSIONS

Skin color homogeneity, driven by melanin and hemoglobin distribution, influences perception of age, attractiveness, health, and youth.

Nitroxides are more efficient inhibitors of oxidative damage to calf skin collagen than antioxidant vitamins

Reactive oxygen species generated upon UV-A exposure appear to play a major role in dermal connective tissue transformations including degradation of skin collagen. Here we investigate on oxidative damage to collagen achieved by exposure to (i) UV-A irradiation and to (ii) AAPH-derived radicals and on its possible prevention using synthetic and natural antioxidants. Oxidative damage was identified through SDS-PAGE, circular dichroism spectroscopy and quantification of protein carbonyl residues. Collagen (2 mg/ml) exposed to UV-A and to AAPH-derived radicals was degraded in a time- and dose-dependent manner. Upon UV-A exposure, maximum damage was observable at 730 kJ/m2 UV-A, found to be equivalent to roughly 2 h of sunshine, while exposure to 5 mM AAPH for 2 h at 50 degrees C lead to maximum collagen degradation. In both cases, dose-dependent protection was achieved by incubation with muM concentrations of nitroxide radicals, where the extent of protection was shown to be dictated by their structural differences whereas the vitamins E and C proved less efficient inhibitors of collagen damage. These results suggest that nitroxide radicals may be able to prevent oxidative injury to dermal tissues in vivo alternatively to commonly used natural antioxidants.

A prospective, randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blinded, and split-face clinical study on LED phototherapy for skin rejuvenation: clinical, profilometric, histologic, ultrastructural, and biochemical evaluations and comparison of three different treatment settings

Light-emitting diodes (LEDs) are considered to be effective in skin rejuvenation. We investigated the clinical efficacy of LED phototherapy for skin rejuvenation through the comparison with three different treatment parameters and a control, and also examined the LED-induced histological, ultrastructural, and biochemical changes. Seventy-six patients with facial wrinkles were treated with quasimonochromatic LED devices on the right half of their faces. All subjects were randomly divided into four groups treated with either 830nm alone, 633nm alone, a combination of 830 and 633nm, or a sham treatment light, twice a week for four weeks. Serial photography, profilometry, and objective measurements of the skin elasticity and melanin were performed during the treatment period with a three-month follow-up period. The subject's and investigator's assessments were double-blinded. Skin specimens were evaluated for the histologic and ultrastructural changes, alteration in the status of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and their tissue inhibitors (TIMPs), and the changes in the mRNA levels of IL-1ss, TNF-alpha, ICAM-1, IL-6 and connexin 43 (Cx43), by utilizing specific stains, TEM, immunohistochemistry, and real-time RT-PCR, respectively. In the results, objectively measured data showed significant reductions of wrinkles (maximum: 36%) and increases of skin elasticity (maximum: 19%) compared to baseline on the treated face in the three treatment groups. Histologically, a marked increase in the amount of collagen and elastic fibers in all treatment groups was observed. Ultrastructural examination demonstrated highly activated fibroblasts, surrounded by abundant elastic and collagen fibers. Immunohistochemistry showed an increase of TIMP-1 and 2. RT-PCR results showed the mRNA levels of IL-1ss, TNF-alpha, ICAM-1, and Cx43 increased after LED phototherapy whereas that of IL-6 decreased. This therapy was well-tolerated by all patients with no adverse effects. We concluded that 830 and 633nm LED phototherapy is an effective approach for skin rejuvenation.

Anterior Lamella Actinic Changes as a Factor in Involutional Eyelid Malposition

PURPOSE

We conducted a noncomparative, retrospective chart review of 45 patients and 51 eyelids with the diagnosis of involutional entropion or ectropion that underwent full-thickness lower eyelid shortening between June 2001 and February 2004, in whom the severity of actinic damage was analyzed in relation to the eyelid position. Patients with any different surgical approach or other primary causes of abnormal eyelid position, such as paralytic, congenital, or mechanical factors, were excluded.

METHODS

After excision, all eyelid specimens were examined by a single anatomic pathologist, who was masked to the type of eyelid malposition. The extent of dermal actinic change was evaluated under light microscopy, according to a previously validated grading system.

RESULTS

Fifty-one eyelids from 26 male and 19 female patients were analyzed. The mean age at the surgery was 76 +/- 10 years (range, 52 to 92 years), affecting one side in 39 cases and both sides in 6 cases. The most frequent eyelid malposition was ectropion, which affected two thirds of the cases (35 eyelids). Half of the patients presented with mild actinic skin changes; however, the severity of the histologic skin actinic changes was significantly worse in patients with ectropion in comparison to those with entropion (p < 0.0001).

CONCLUSIONS

Actinic damage affecting the anterior lamella of the lower eyelid contributes as an additional factor in final eyelid position in patients with involutional eyelid changes. More severe and extensive actinic changes were present in eyelids with ectropion.

Non-surgical treatment modalities of facial photodamage: practical knowledge for the oral and maxillofacial professional

With the increasing interest in cosmetic procedures, oral and maxillofacial surgeons are being asked not only to improve oral health and aesthetics but to extend their expertise to provide advice on improving the overall appearance of the face. For the discerning patient, improving overall facial skin appearance is becoming an integral part of the process of surgical cosmetic procedures. Here, some of the non-surgical options available for the treatment of photodamaged skin are reviewed and an overview of the specific treatments in this category provided. Sun avoidance and protection from harmful rays with appropriate sunscreens are primary to maintaining healthy skin and appearance. Among treatment options, topical treatments with preparations such as retinoids, alpha-hydroxy acids and antioxidants have been shown to provide some benefit and are relatively easy to use albeit with appropriate precautions and professional guidance. As a second-level option, facial rejuvenation procedures such as botulinum toxin injection, soft tissue augmentation with collagen or hyaluronic acid gel, skin resurfacing, use of chemical peels, dermabrasion and laser resurfacing procedures can be used but require administration by qualified practitioners. Overall, these treatments may be used to complement rehabilitative, reconstructive, or cosmetic oral and maxillofacial surgery to further improve and complement surgical results.

Visible light treatment of photoaging

Recently, a number of new devices have been developed specifically to improve the visible signs of aging in a noninvasive way. These include visible or near-infrared lasers, intense pulsed light sources (IPL), light-emitting diode (LED), and radiofrequency devices. This paper reviews the use of visible light sources and examines the attributes of specific systems for noninvasive skin rejuvenation.

Protective effect of matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors against epidermal basement membrane damage: skin equivalents partially mimic photoageing process

BACKGROUND

The epidermal basement membrane (BM) plays important roles in adhesion between epidermis and dermis, and in controlling epidermal differentiation. The BM has been reported to be damaged in sun-exposed skin. Although matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) are believed to be involved in the BM damage, there is no good in vitro model for examining BM damage by MMPs or for exploring methods to protect the BM.

OBJECTIVES

To examine the involvement of MMPs in BM damage and approaches to protect the BM from such damage by using an in vitro skin-equivalent (SE) model.

METHOD

SE was prepared by culturing human keratinocytes on contracted collagen gel including human fibroblasts. MMP-1, -2, -3 and -9, laminin 5 and type IV and VII collagens were determined by specific sandwich ELISAs, and MMP-2 and MMP-9 were analysed by gelatin zymography. Histological examination of SE was also carried out.

RESULTS

Despite production of BM components such as laminin 5 and type IV and VII collagens in SEs, BM was rarely observed at the dermal-epidermal junction. Several MMPs, such as MMP-1, -2, -3 and -9, were observed to be present in conditioned media and some of them were in active forms. Tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase (TIMP)-2 was not detected, although TIMP-1 was present. Synthetic MMP inhibitors, CGS27023A and MMP-inhibitor I, which inhibit MMP-1, -2, -3 and -9, markedly augmented deposition of laminin 5 and type IV and VII collagens at the dermal-epidermal junction, resulting in the formation of continuous epidermal BM.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results indicate that MMPs are involved in the degradation of BM in SEs, and that MMP inhibitors exert a protective effect against BM damage.

Pathogenic aspects of cutaneous photoaging

Chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet irradiation can result in wrinkle formation in many individuals. Wrinkling appears to be the conclusion of mechanisms that result in decreased synthesis of extracellular matrix molecules within the dermis, accompanied by increased remodeling of the matrix by specific endopeptidases (matrix metalloproteinases) and proteases (originating from infiltrating cells of the immune system). In this review, we discuss the changes that occur in the extracellular matrix of photoaged skin and the mechanisms by which they are modulated.

Histological evaluation of a topically applied retinol-vitamin C combination

Two double-blind studies versus vehicle were carried out to investigate the effects of a topically applied retinol plus vitamin C combination on epidermal and dermal compartments of aged or photoaged human skin. The two studies were performed on postmenopausal women who were selected for treatment based on the mild level of elastosis of their facial skin. At completion of treatment, skin biopsies were collected and processed for classical histology and immunohistochemistry. In the first study (aged skin), 8 volunteers applied the retinol- and vitamin C-containing preparation on the ventral side of one elbow and the vehicle on the other elbow twice daily for 3 months. After the 3-month treatment we observed histological changes mainly within the epidermis. The stratum corneum was thinner with a compact pattern, whereas the epidermal proliferation increased, resulting in a thickening of the viable epidermis. Moreover, the interdigitation index was increased. In the second study (photoaged skin), 11 volunteers were divided in two groups; one applied the retinol- and vitamin C-containing preparation and the other one the vehicle on their face twice daily for 6 months. Facial skin samples presented histologic hallmarks of photoaging, i.e. accumulation of elastotic material in the papillary dermis. After the 6-month topical treatment, the observed histological changes were mainly concentrated at the dermal level. Both treated and control groups showed the same distribution pattern of type I procollagen, however, the high level of type III procollagen originally observed in photoaged skin was reduced in the retinol- and vitamin C-treated group, resulting in a lower type III-to-type I procollagen ratio. Furthermore, a wide band of eosinophilic material just beneath the epidermis, devoid of oxytalan fibers and forming the 'grenz zone', appeared more frequently and was larger in the retinol- and vitamin C-treated group. In conclusion, our results show that repeated topical application of a preparation containing both retinol and vitamin C is able to reverse, at least in part, skin changes induced by both chronologic aging and photoaging.