p-Coumaric acid, a constituent ofSasa quelpaertensisNakai, inhibits cellular melanogenesis stimulated by -melanocyte stimulating hormone

Searching for Natural Plants with Antimelanogenesis and Antityrosinase Properties for Cosmeceutical or Nutricosmetics Applications: A Systematic Review

Excessive UV radiation (UVR) exposure has been shown in studies to be a major risk factor for most melanomas, causing premature skin aging as well as immune system suppression due to the increased production of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and other reactive oxygen species (ROS) during the melanogenesis process. Although several compounds with antioxidant and antityrosinase activities are widely used in the cosmetic industry, like kojic acid, hydroquinone, ascorbic acid, and arbutin, their use has been limited due to their adverse effects on the skin and cytotoxic issues. Recently, attempts have been made to develop new natural skin-lightening products by using plant extracts that are less toxic and exhibit numerous biological properties with great market demand. In this study, information on the depigmentation effects of various natural plant species was gathered from the SCOPUS database according to the PRISMA guidelines. A total of 414 records were retrieved, and finally, 76 articles were included in the qualitative synthesis by fulfilling all the inclusion criteria. In this review, we discuss the extraction methods and biological assays of 75 highly potential plant species, including the olive, yuzu, longan, and lotus. We concluded that the use of natural plants as skin-whitening agents is highly effective as there is a significant correlation between the content of polyphenolic compounds, antimelanogenesis, antityrosinase, and antioxidant activities. However, it is worth noting that the use of extraction methods or types of solvents is very important in determining the biological activities of plants.

Phenolic compounds from Tradescantia pallida ameliorate diabetes by inhibiting enzymatic and non-enzymatic pathways

Diabetes is a chronic metabolic disorder marked by postprandial hyperglycemia due to several etiologies including abnormal carbohydrate digestion and glycation of hemoglobin. The prolong use of synthetic drugs results in characteristic side effects which necessitates the discovery of safe and cost-effective substitutes. The aim of the current study is to isolate and evaluate the antidiabetic potential of the phenolic compounds from the leaves of Tradescantia pallida. Syringic acid, p-coumaric acid, morin and catechin (compounds 1-4) were isolated and characterized from Tradescantia pallida leaves using column chromatography and spectroscopic techniques. The in vitro antidiabetic potential of the phenolic compounds were assessed using α-amylase and non-enzymatic glycosylation of hemoglobin protein assays. A mechanistic insight of interactions between phenolic compounds and human α-amylase and hemoglobin protein were scrutinized by employing molecular docking method. Prime Molecular Mechanics/Generalized Born Surface Area (MM-GBSA) calculations were carried out to find the binding energies of the ligand-protein complexes. Morin and catechin were further analyzed to find the dynamic and thermodynamic constraints of the complexes under specific biological conditions using molecular dynamic simulation trajectories. The stability and flexibility of the complexes were justified by fluctuation of α-carbon chain, Root Mean Square Deviation (RMSD), Root Mean Square Fluctuation (RMSF) and type of interactions involved which authenticated the in vitro inhibitory potential of morin and catechin against enzymatic and non-enzymatic pathways. The current study could be fruitful in rational designing of safe antidiabetic drugs of natural origin.Communicated by Ramaswamy H. Sarma.

Dehydroglyasperin D Suppresses Melanin Synthesis through MITF Degradation in Melanocytes

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) has been used as preventive and therapeutic material for hyperpigmentation disorders. Previously, we isolated noble compounds including dehydroglyasperin C (DGC), dehydroglyasperin D (DGD) and isoangustone A (IAA) from licorice hexane/ethanol extracts. However, their anti-melanogenic effects and underlying molecular mechanisms are unknown. The present study compared effects of DGC, DGD and IAA on pigmentation in melan-a melanocytes and human epidermal melanocytes (HEMn). DGD exerted the most excellent anti-melanogenic effect, followed by DGC and IAA at non-cytotoxic concentrations. In addition, DGD significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity in vitro cell-free system and cell system. Western blot result showed that DGD decreased expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1) in melan-a cells and HEMn cells. DGD induced phosphorylation of MITF, ERK and Akt signal pathway promoting MITF degradation system. However, DGD did not influence p38 and cAMP-dependent protein kinase (PKA)/CREB signal pathway in melan-a cells. These result indicated that DGD inhibited melanogenesis not only direct regulation of tyrosinase but also modulating intracellular signaling related with MITF level. Collectively, these results suggested a protective role for DGD against melanogenesis.

Identification of p-Coumaric Acid and Ethyl p-Coumarate as the Main Phenolic Components of Hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) Roots

Hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) contains a variety of secondary metabolites, including cannabinoids, such as psychoactive (-)-trans-Δ⁹-tetrahydrocannabinol. The present study was conducted to identify the major phenolic components contained in hemp root, which has been relatively under-researched compared to other parts of hemp. The aqueous ethanol extract of hemp roots was fractionated into methylene chloride (MC), ethyl acetate (EA), and water (WT) fractions, and high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (HPLC-DAD) analysis was performed. The main ultraviolet (UV)-absorbing phenolic compound contained in the EA fraction was identified as p-coumaric acid by comparing the retention time and UV absorption spectrum with a standard. Silica gel column chromatography was performed to isolate a hydrophobic derivative of p-coumaric acid contained in the MC fraction. Nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) analysis identified the isolated compound as ethyl p-coumarate. For comparative purposes, ethyl p-coumarate was also chemically synthesized by the esterification reaction of p-coumaric acid. The content of p-coumaric acid and ethyl p-coumarate in the total extract of hemp root was estimated to be 2.61 mg g-1 and 6.47 mg g-1, respectively, by HPLC-DAD analysis. These values correspond to 84 mg Kg-1 dry root and 216 mg Kg-1 dry root, respectively. In conclusion, this study identified p-coumaric acid and ethyl p-coumarate as the main phenolic compounds contained in the hemp roots.

Antioxidant and Anti-Melanogenic Activities of Heat-Treated Licorice (Wongam, Glycyrrhiza glabra × G. uralensis) Extract

Melanin is a brown or black pigment that protects skin from ultraviolet radiation and reactive oxygen species (ROS). However, overproduction of melanin is associated with lentigines, melasma, freckles and skin cancer. Licorice has shown antioxidant, anti-tumor, anti-platelet, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory activities and is used as a natural treatment for skin whitening. We aimed to confirm the potential of Wongam, a new cultivar of licorice developed by the Rural Development Administration (RDA), as a whitening agent in cosmetics. In addition, we verified the effect of heat treatment on the bioactivity of licorice by comparing antioxidant and anti-melanogenic activities of licorice extract before and after heating (130 °C). The heat-treated licorice extract (WH-130) showed higher radical-scavenging activities in the ABTS⁺ (2,2′-azino-bis-(3-ethylbenzothiazolin-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt) and DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) assays. In addition, WH-130 inhibited melanogenesis more effectively due to downregulation of tyrosinase in B16F10 melanoma cells than non-heated licorice extract. Moreover, heat treatment increased total phenolic content. In particular, isoliquiritigenin, an antioxidant and anti-melanogenic compound of licorice, was produced by heat treatment. In conclusion, WH-130, with increased levels of bioactive phenolics such as isoliquiritigenin, has potential for development into a novel skin whitening material with applications in cosmetics.

Scavenging Properties of Plant-Derived Natural Biomolecule Para-Coumaric Acid in the Prevention of Oxidative Stress-Induced Diseases

Para-coumaric acid (p-CA) is a plant derived secondary metabolite belonging to the phenolic compounds. It is widely distributed in the plant kingdom and found mainly in fruits, vegetables, and cereals. Various in vivo and in vitro studies have revealed its scavenging and antioxidative properties in the reduction of oxidative stress and inflammatory reactions. This evidence-based review focuses on the protective role of p-CA including its therapeutic potential. p-CA and its conjugates possesses various bioactivities such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer, anti-diabetic, and anti-melanogenic properties. Due to its potent free radical scavenging activity, it can mitigate the ill effects of various diseases including arthritis, neurological disorders, and cardio-vascular diseases. Recent studies have revealed that p-CA can ameliorate the harmful effects associated with oxidative stress in the reproductive system, also by inhibiting enzymes linked with erectile function.

Flavonoids increase melanin production and reduce proliferation, migration and invasion of melanoma cells by blocking endolysosomal/melanosomal TPC2

Two-pore channel 2 (TPC2) resides in endolysosomal membranes but also in lysosome-related organelles such as the melanin producing melanosomes. Gain-of-function polymorphisms in hTPC2 are associated with decreased melanin production and blond hair color. Vice versa genetic ablation of TPC2 increases melanin production. We show here an inverse correlation between melanin production and melanoma proliferation, migration, and invasion due to the dual activity of TPC2 in endolysosomes and melanosomes. Our results are supported by both genetic ablation and pharmacological inhibition of TPC2. Mechanistically, our data show that loss/block of TPC2 results in reduced protein levels of MITF, a major regulator of melanoma progression, but an increased activity of the melanin-generating enzyme tyrosinase. TPC2 inhibition thus provides a twofold benefit in melanoma prevention and treatment by increasing, through interference with tyrosinase activity, the synthesis of UV blocking melanin in melanosomes and by decreasing MITF-driven melanoma progression by increased GSK3β-mediated MITF degradation.

Computationally designed p-coumaric acid analogs: searching for neuroprotective antioxidants

Newly designed p-coumaric acid derivatives are promising candidates as multifunctional antioxidants with neuroprotective effects.

Discrimination of Lycium chinense and L. barbarum Based on Metabolite Analysis and Hepatoprotective Activity

Lycii Fructus is a traditional medicine used to prevent liver and kidney diseases, which commonly derives from Lycium chinense and Lycium barbarum. Here, the extracts and ethyl acetate-soluble fractions of L. chinense fruits exhibited better hepatoprotective effects than those of L. barbarum, which was likely due to differences in their composition. Therefore, GC-MS and HPLC analyses were conducted to characterize the metabolite differences between L. chinense and L. barbarum. Based on amino acid (AA) and phenolic acid (PA) profiling, 24 AAs and 9 PAs were identified in the two species. Moreover, each species exhibited unique and readily distinguishable AA and PA star graphic patterns. HPLC analysis elucidated composition differences between the ethyl acetate-soluble layers of the two compounds. Further, NMR analysis identified their chemical structures as 4-(2-formyl-5-(hydroxymethyl)-1H-pyrrol-1-yl)butanoic acid and p-coumaric acid. The higher content of 4-(2-formyl-5-(hydroxymethyl)-1H-pyrrol-1-yl)butanoic acid was detected in L. chinense, whereas the content of p-coumaric acid was higher in L. barbarum. Therefore, the differences in the relative contents of these two secondary metabolites in the ethyl acetate-soluble layer of Lycii Fructus could be a good marker to discriminate between L. chinense and L. barbarum.

Up- or Downregulation of Melanin Synthesis Using Amino Acids, Peptides, and Their Analogs

Harmonious synthesis and distribution of melanin in the skin contribute to the expression of beauty and the maintenance of health. When skin pigmentary disorders occur because of internal or external factors or, when there is a need to artificially increase or reduce the pigmentation level of the skin for aesthetic or therapeutic purposes, various pharmacological therapies are applied but the results are not always satisfactory. Studies have been conducted to improve the efficacy and safety of these treatment strategies. In this review, we present the latest studies regarding peptides and related compounds that may be useful in artificially increasing or reducing skin melanin levels. Certain analogs of α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH) and oligopeptides with the sequences derived from the hormone were shown to promote melanin synthesis in cells and in vivo models. Various amino acids, peptides, their analogs, and their hybrid compounds with other chemical moieties were shown to inhibit tyrosinase (TYR) catalytic activity or downregulate TYR gene expression. Certain peptides were shown to inhibit melanosome biogenesis or induce autophagy, leading to decreased pigmentation. In vivo and clinical evidence are available for some compounds, including [Nle⁴-_D-Phe⁷]-α-MSH, glutathione disulfide, and glycinamide hydrochloride. For many other compounds, additional studies are required to verify their efficacy and safety in vivo and in clinical trials. The accumulating information regarding pro- and antimelanogenic activity of peptides and related compounds will lead to the development of novel drugs for the treatment of skin pigmentary disorders.

Emerging Strategies to Protect the Skin from Ultraviolet Rays Using Plant-Derived Materials

Sunlight contains a significant amount of ultraviolet (UV) ray, which leads to various effects on homeostasis in the body. Defense strategies to protect from UV rays have been extensively studied, as sunburn, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis are caused by excessive UV exposure. The primary lines of defense against UV damage are melanin and trans-urocanic acid, which are distributed in the stratum corneum. UV rays that pass beyond these lines of defense can lead to oxidative damage. However, cells detect changes due to UV rays as early as possible and initiate cell signaling processes to prevent the occurrence of damage and repair the already occurred damage. Cosmetic and dermatology experts recommend using a sunscreen product to prevent UV-induced damage. A variety of strategies using antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents have also been developed to complement the skin's defenses against UV rays. Researchers have examined the use of plant-derived materials to alleviate the occurrence of skin aging, diseases, and cancer caused by UV rays. Furthermore, studies are also underway to determine how to promote melanin production to protect from UV-induced skin damage. This review provides discussion of the damage that occurs in the skin due to UV light and describes potential defense strategies using plant-derived materials. This review aims to assist researchers in understanding the current research in this area and to potentially plan future studies.

Screening of an Epigenetic Drug Library Identifies 4-((hydroxyamino)carbonyl)-N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-Phenyl-Benzeneacetamide that Reduces Melanin Synthesis by Inhibiting Tyrosinase Activity Independently of Epigenetic Mechanisms

The aim of this study was to identify novel antimelanogenic drugs from an epigenetic screening library containing various modulators targeting DNA methyltransferases, histone deacetylases, and other related enzymes/proteins. Of 141 drugs tested, K8 (4-((hydroxyamino)carbonyl)-N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-phenyl-benzeneacetamide; HPOB) was found to effectively inhibit the α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin synthesis in B16-F10 murine melanoma cells without accompanying cytotoxicity. Additional experiments showed that K8 did not significantly reduce the mRNA and protein level of tyrosinase (TYR) or microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in cells, but it potently inhibited the catalytic activity TYR in vitro (IC₅₀, 1.1-1.5 µM) as compared to β-arbutin (IC₅₀, 500-700 µM) or kojic acid (IC₅₀, 63 µM). K8 showed copper chelating activity similar to kojic acid. Therefore, these data suggest that K8 inhibits cellular melanin synthesis not by downregulation of TYR protein expression through an epigenetic mechanism, but by direct inhibition of TYR catalytic activity through copper chelation. Metal chelating activity of K8 is not surprising because it is known to inhibit histone deacetylase (HDAC) 6 through zinc chelation. This study identified K8 as a potent inhibitor of cellular melanin synthesis, which may be useful for the treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders.

Folium nelumbinis (Lotus leaf) volatile-rich fraction and its mechanisms of action against melanogenesis in B16 cells

This study was aimed at determining the influence of Folium nelumbinis (Lotus leaf) extracts on melanogenesis in vitro models of melanoma cell line. The anticancer activity of four fractions, including petroleum ether (PEE), n-hexane (HE), ethanol (EE), and ethyl acetate (EAE) from F. nelumbinis on B16 cell lines (C57BL/6J melanoma cell), were evaluated after 24 and 48 h treatment. Results showed that PEE as well as volatile-rich fractions of linolenic acid and linolenic acid ethyl ester significantly (p < 0.05) reduced tyrosinase activity and melanin content in B16 melanoma cells model. Meanwhile, PEE and its primarily contained compound triggered apoptosis of B16 cells in a dose-dependent way. These results demonstrated that PEE possessed effective activities against melanin and tyrosinase generations through the induction of apoptosis. Moreover, a relation between the volatile-rich fractions of F. nelumbinis and the anticancer effects was demonstrated as well.

Insoluble-bound polyphenols of adlay seed ameliorate H2O2-induced oxidative stress in HepG2 cells via Nrf2 signalling

In this study, protective effects of insoluble-bound polyphenol extracts from adlay seed against H2O2-induced oxidative stress in HepG2 cells were investigated. Each fraction of insoluble-bound polyphenol extracts from adlay seed was obtained by separating with Sephadex LH-20 column and semi-preparative HPLC. Ferulic acid was found being the main active component of insoluble-bound polyphenol in adlay seed. The cytoprotective effects of ferulic acid against oxidative challenge were determined by cell viability, intracellular reactive oxygen stress change in HepG2 cells, western blot and apoptosis by flow cytometry. Ferulic acid had a positive correlation with cell viability and a negative correlation with apoptosis. Ferulic acid treatment increased the activity of GSH-PX, CAT, γ-GCS. Moreover, the nuclear factor E2 related factor (Nrf2) protein expression in the ferulic acid group positively correlated with the HO-1, GCLC and NQO1 protein levels. Thus the results demonstrated that ferulic acid, the main active component of insoluble-bound polyphenol in adlay seed could ameliorate H2O2-induced oxidative stress in HepG2 cells via Nrf2 signalling. The research can provide a reference for the in-depth study of its regulatory mechanism and the development of antioxidant related functional food and health products.

Sasa quelpaertensis Nakai extract induces p53-independent apoptosis via the elevation of nitric oxide production in human HCT116 colon cancer cells

Induction of apoptosis in human cancer cells by Sasa quelpaertensis Nakai has been considered to be a potential therapeutic target for cancer treatment; however, the underlying mechanisms of action are not well understood. The present study investigated the role of nitric oxide (NO^•) and inhibitors of apoptosis (IAPs) during apoptosis induced by Sasa quelpaertensis Nakai extracts (SQE) in p53-wild type (WT) and p53-null HCT116 colon carcinoma cells. Trypan blue exclusion and Annexin V/propidium iodide assays were used to test for antiproliferation, and apoptosis and cell cycle. Griess and reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction and western blotting assays were carried out to assay NO^• production, and to detect the mRNA and protein levels of Bcl-2, PARP and IAPs. A colorimetric assay was utilized to measure the time-dependent increase in caspase-3 activity. SQE inhibited cell growth and promoted apoptosis by the elevation of NO^• in a dose- and time-dependent manner. In addition, both cell types underwent a reduction in mRNA and protein levels of IAPs (survivin, CIAP-1 and -2, and X-linked inhibitor of apoptosis) as well as anti-apoptotic Bcl-2, whereas an increase in protein expression of poly (ADP-ribose) polymerase 1 and caspase 3 activity was observed; however, an equivalent cytotoxic and apoptotic effect by SQE was observed in p53-WT and p53-null cells. Collectively, the results indicated that SQE-induced apoptosis was independent of p53 status and associated with modulation of endogenous NO^• and IAP family gene expression.

Anti-Melanogenic Effect of Ethanolic Extract of Sorghum bicolor on IBMX-Induced Melanogenesis in B16/F10 Melanoma Cells

To evaluate possibility as a skin whitening agent of Sorghum bicolor (S. bicolor), its antioxidant activity and anti-melanogenic effect on 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine (IBMX)-induced melanogenesis in B16/F10 melanoma cells were investigated. The result of total phenolic contents (TPC) indicated that 60% ethanol extract of S. bicolor (ESB) has the highest contents than other ethanol extracts. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using the 2,2'-azino-bis-(3-ethylbenzothiazolin-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS)/1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activities and malondialdehyde (MDA) inhibitory effect. These results showed ESB has significant antioxidant activities. Inhibitory effect against tyrosinase was also assessed using L-tyrosine (IC₅₀ value = 89.25 μg/mL) and 3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-DOPA) as substrates. In addition, ESB treatment effectively inhibited melanin production in IBMX-induced B16/F10 melanoma cells. To confirm the mechanism on anti-melanogenic effect of ESB, we examined melanogenesis-related proteins. ESB downregulated melanogenesis by decreasing expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1. Finally, 9-hydroxyoctadecadienoic acid (9-HODE), 1,3-O-dicaffeoylglycerol and tricin as the main compounds of ESB were analyzed using the ultra-performance liquid chromatography-ion mobility separation-quadrupole time of flight/tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-IMS-QTOF/MS²). These findings suggest that ESB may have physiological potential to be used skin whitening material.

Metabolomics Approach Expands the Classification of Propolis Samples from Midwest Brazil

Propolis samples collected from five areas in Mato Grosso do Sul state, Midwest Brazil, comprising portions of the Cerrado, Pantanal, and Atlantic Forest ecosystems, were investigated for metabolomic profiles and evaluated for antioxidant and antitumor potential. Chemical profiles were determined by HPLC-DAD-MS/MS data and evaluated using principal component analysis and hierarchical clustering analysis to discern chemical composition patterns. Based on phytogeographical origin and chemical composition, 20 potential markers were identified and five groups were distinguished: (I) Cerrado/Central, (II) Atlantic Forest/South, (III) Cerrado-Pantanal transition area/Northwest, (IV) Cerrado/North, and (V) Pantanal/West. Drawing on HPLC-DAD-MS/MS and NMR data, 47 compounds were successfully or tentatively identified, including prenylated phenylpropanoids, flavonoids, isoflavonoids, and di- and triterpenoids, among other constituents. Isoflavonoids, typically found in red propolis from Northeast Brazil, are being reported for the first time in a propolis sample from the Midwest. A new prenylated aromatic compound, (E)-3-[4-hydroxy-3-(2-hydroxy-3-methylbut-3-en-1-yl)-5-(3-methylbut-2-en-1-yl)phenyl]propenoic acid, was obtained. Samples in group II exhibited promising antitumor potential against prostate and breast carcinoma cells, as did samples in groups III and IV against the latter cell line. The sample in group I, despite containing the highest amount of total phenolic compounds and being the only sample to exhibit scavenging activity against DPPH, was not the most cytotoxic against the cell lines tested.

Traditional Chinese Herbal Medicine for Whitening

Melanin is the chief pigment responsible for the pigmentation of human skin. Increasing evidence indicates that traditional Chinese drugs with skin-whitening effects are attracting the attention of consumers and researchers because they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier than synthetic alternatives. This commentary summarizes the current research on Chinese herbal medicines that inhibit melanin and their biological activities. The findings presented in this study suggest that these traditional Chinese herbal medicines might be potential candidates for novel skin-whitening agents.

Application and optimization of ultrasound-assisted deep eutectic solvent for the extraction of new skin-lightening cosmetic materials from Ixora javanica flower

The high demand for cosmetics has had a great impact on the development of innovative products in the cosmetic industry. The availability of raw materials has become a common problem in the cosmetic industry. Materials from nature can act as alternative sources, such as Ixora javanica. Several studies have shown the potential of I. javanica as an antioxidant and skin lightening agent. The objectives of the present study were to develop and optimize a green ultrasound-assisted deep eutectic solvent extraction of I. javanica. Eleven deep eutectic solvents were evaluated based on extraction efficiency parameters; that is, flavonoid and anthocyanin yields; the antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of the extracts. The combination of choline chloride and propylene glycol (1:1) was shown to be the optimal deep eutectic solvent for I. javanica extraction. The extraction parameters of temperature, extraction time, and solid-to-liquid ratio were also optimized using response surface methodology. The total flavonoid compound obtained was 33 mg quercetin equivalent/g dried sample under the optimum extraction condition (extraction time of 5 min, temperature of 57 °C, solid-to-liquid ratio of 0.02 g/mL). In sum, this work demonstrates the potential of natural deep eutectic solvent as an organic solvent replacement to obtain high quality Ixora javanica extract, which is a potential new source of skin-lightening cosmetic materials.

p-Coumaric Acid as An Active Ingredient in Cosmetics: A Review Focusing on its Antimelanogenic Effects

Controlling unwanted hyperpigmentation is a major challenge in dermatology and cosmetology, and safe and efficacious antimelanogenic agents are deemed useful for this purpose. p-Coumaric acid is a natural metabolite contained in many edible plants, and its antioxidant activities in reducing oxidative stress and inflammatory reactions have been demonstrated in various experimental models. p-Coumaric acid has the optimal structure to be a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase that catalyzes key reactions in the melanin biosynthetic pathway. Experimental evidence supports this notion as it was found to be a more potent inhibitor of tyrosinase, especially toward human enzymes, than other well-known tyrosinase inhibitors such as arbutin and kojic acid. p-Coumaric acid inhibited melanin synthesis in murine melanoma cells, human epidermal melanocytes, and reconstituted three-dimensional human skin models. Ex-vivo skin permeation experiments and in-vivo efficacy tests for p-coumaric acid confirmed its efficient transdermal delivery and functional efficacy in reducing erythema development and skin pigmentation due to ultraviolet radiation exposure. Human studies further supported its effectiveness in hypopigmentation and depigmentation. These findings suggest that p-coumaric acid has good potential to be used as a skin-lightening active ingredient in cosmetics. Future studies are needed to extensively examine its safety and efficacy and to develop an optimized cosmetic formulation for the best performance in skin lightening.

Luteolin 7-Sulfate Attenuates Melanin Synthesis through Inhibition of CREB- and MITF-Mediated Tyrosinase Expression

Antioxidants with antimelanogenic activity are potentially useful for the attenuation of skin hyperpigmentation disorders. In a previous study, luteolin 7-sulfate isolated from Phyllospadix iwatensis Makino, a marine plant, was shown to inhibit cellular melanin synthesis. The aim of the present study was to examine its action mechanism, focusing on the regulation of tyrosinase (TYR) expression in cells. Cell-based assay was undertaken using murine melanoma B16-F10 cells and primary human epidermal melanocytes (HEMs). Luteolin 7-sulfate showed lower toxicity compared to luteolin in B16-F10 cells. At the non-toxic concentration ranges, luteolin 7-sulfate attenuated melanin synthesis, stimulated by α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone or forskolin. Luteolin 7-sulfate attenuated forskolin-induced microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and TYR expressions at the mRNA and protein levels in B16-F10 cells. It also attenuated the phosphorylation of cAMP-responsive element binding protein (CREB) stimulated by forskolin. Luteolin 7-sulfate also attenuated melanin synthesis in primary HEMs. This study demonstrates that luteolin 7-sulfate attenuates TYR gene expression through the intervention of a CREB- and MITF-mediated signaling pathway, leading to the decreased melanin synthesis.

Identification of small peptides and glycinamide that inhibit melanin synthesis using a positional scanning synthetic peptide combinatorial library

BACKGROUND

Antimelanogenic peptides are potentially useful to treat hyperpigmentation, but many peptides have limited application because of high cost and/or low activity.

OBJECTIVES

To identify small and potent peptide inhibitors of cellular melanin synthesis that are useful for cosmetic and medical applications.

METHODS

A positional scanning synthetic tetrapeptide combinatorial library was used for screening of potentially active peptides. Antimelanogenic activities of the peptide pools and individual peptides were evaluated in B16-F10 melanoma cells and human epidermal melanocytes treated with alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH).

RESULTS

Predicted active tetrapeptide sequences were R-(F/L)-(C/W)-(G/R)-NH₂ . Of the individual tetrapeptides tested, D3 (RFWG-NH₂ ) and D5 (RLWG-NH₂ ) exhibited high antimelanogenic activities. Tetrapeptide D9 (FRWG-NH₂ ) with a sequence identical to that of a portion of α-MSH also showed antimelanogenic activity. Of the tripeptides tested, E5 (FWG-NH₂ ), E6 (LWG-NH₂ ) and E7 (RWG-NH₂ ) were relatively more active. Dipeptide F1 (WG-NH₂ ) and monopeptide G1 (G-NH₂ , glycinamide) retained activity, but G2 (Ac-G-NH₂ ) and G3 (glycine) did not. The antimelanogenic activities of peptides D3, E5, F1 and G1 were verified in α-MSH-stimulated human epidermal melanocytes. Commercially available G-NH₂ ·HCl suppressed the phosphorylation levels of cAMP-responsive element binding protein, protein levels of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor and tyrosinase, l-tyrosine hydroxylase activity of tyrosinase, and the melanin levels in stimulated cells.

CONCLUSIONS

Small peptides, including glycinamide and tryptophanyl glycinamide, are potent antimelanogenic agents with potential value for the treatment of skin hyperpigmentation.

Inhibitory effects of compounds isolated from Lepechinia meyenii on tyrosinase

To contribute enzymatic browning inhibitors to the food industry and also extend knowledge about the phytochemical profile of the anti-tyrosinase plant Lepechinia meyenii, its ethanol extract was subjected to bioguided fractionation. Three hydroxycinnamic acids, p-coumaric acid (1), caffeic acid (2) and rosmarinic acid (3), were isolated as mainly responsible for its activity. Compounds 1, 2 and 3 showed themselves highly effective for inhibiting tyrosinase with IC₅₀ values of 0.30, 1.50 and 4.14 μM, respectively, for monophenolase activity and 0.62, 2.30 and 8.59 μM, respectively for diphenolase activity. This is the first report describing the isolation of the compounds causing the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of L. meyenii extract. The inhibitory kinetics of 1-3 using both L-tyrosine and L-DOPA as substrates was investigated and the results obtained were discussed at molecular level by docking analysis. The resulting compounds 1-3 and a phenolic-enriched fraction of the extract, 2.9-fold more active than the starting material, may be suitable as non-toxic and inexpensive alternatives for the control of deleterious enzymatic darkening.

Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics: current use and future prospects

Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics and possess various functions. This group of compounds includes both naturally occurring and synthetic substances. On the basis of the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) and available literature, this review summarizes their functions in cosmetics, including their physicochemical and biological properties as well as reported adverse effects. A perfuming function is typical of many derivatives of cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, dihydrocinnamyl alcohol and cinnamic acid itself; these substances are commonly used in cosmetics all over the world. Some of them show allergic and photoallergic potential, resulting in restrictions in maximum concentrations and/or a requirement to indicate the presence of some substances in the list of ingredients when their concentrations exceed certain fixed values in a cosmetic product. Another important function of cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics is UV protection. Ester derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), isoamyl p-methoxycinnamte (amiloxiate), octocrylene and cinoxate are used in cosmetics all over the world as UV filters. However, their maximum concentrations in cosmetic products are restricted due to their adverse effects, which include contact and a photocontact allergies, phototoxic contact dermatitis, contact dermatitis, estrogenic modulation and generation of reactive oxygen species. Other rarely utilized functions of cinnamic acid derivatives are as an antioxidant, in skin conditioning, hair conditioning, as a tonic and in antimicrobial activities. Moreover, some currently investigated natural and synthetic derivatives of cinnamic acid have shown skin lightening and anti-ageing properties. Some of them may become new cosmetic ingredients in the future. In particular, 4-hydroxycinnamic acid, which is currently indexed as a skin-conditioning cosmetics ingredient, has been widely tested in vitro and in vivo as a new drug candidate for the treatment of hyperpigmentation.

Inhibitors of Melanogenesis: An Updated Review

Melanins are pigment molecules that determine the skin, eye, and hair color of the human subject to its amount, quality, and distribution. Melanocytes synthesize melanin and provide epidermal protection from various stimuli, such as harmful ultraviolet radiation, through the complex process called melanogenesis. However, serious dermatological problems occur when there is excessive production of melanin in different parts of the human body. These include freckles, melasma, senile lentigo, pigmented acne scars, and cancer. Therefore, controlling the production of melanin is an important approach for the treatment of pigmentation related disorderes. In this Perspective, we focus on the inhibitors of melanogenesis that directly/indirectly target a key enzyme tyrosinase as well as its associated signaling pathways.

A Review of Analytical Methods for p-Coumaric Acid in Plant-Based Products, Beverages, and Biological Matrices

p-Coumaric acid (p-CA), also known as 4-hydroxycinnamic acid, is a phenolic acid, which has been widely studied due to its beneficial effects against several diseases and its wide distribution in the plant kingdom. This phenolic compound can be found in the free form or conjugated with other molecules; therefore, its bioavailability and the pathways via which it is metabolized change according to its chemical structure. p-CA has potential pharmacological effects because it has high free radical scavenging, anti-inflammatory, antineoplastic, and antimicrobial activities, among other biological properties. It is therefore essential to choose the most appropriate and effective analytical method for qualitative and quantitative determination of p-CA in different matrices, such as plasma, urine, plant extracts, and drug delivery systems. The most-reported analytical method for this purpose is high-performance liquid chromatography, which is mostly coupled with some type of detectors, such as UV/Vis detector. However, other analytical techniques are also used to evaluate this compound. This review presents a summary of p-CA in terms of its chemical and pharmacokinetic properties, pharmacological effects, drug delivery systems, and the analytical methods described in the literature that are suitable for its quantification.

Antioxidative and Anti-Melanogenic Activities of Bamboo Stems (Phyllostachys nigra variety henosis) via PKA/CREB-Mediated MITF Downregulation in B16F10 Melanoma Cells

Phyllostachys nigra var. henosis, a domestic bamboo species, has been attracting much attention; its bioactive compounds (especially in the leaf) show antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-obesity activities. Little information is available on the antioxidative and anti-melanogenetic activities of the bioactive compounds in bamboo stems. The anti-melanogenic and antioxidative activities of the EtOAc fraction (PN3) of a P. nigra stem extract were investigated in a cell-free system and in B16F10 melanoma cells. PN3 consisted of a mixture of flavonoids, such as catechin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, and p-coumaric acid. The antioxidant activity (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS)), and hydroxyl radical scavenging) was evaluated, as well as the inhibition of reactive oxygen species (ROS) produced by the Fenton reaction. PN3 showed in vitro tyrosinase inhibition activity with the half maximal inbihitory concentration (IC₅₀) values of 240 μg/mL, and in vivo cytotoxic concentration ranges > 100 μg/mL. The protein expression levels and mRNA transcription levels of TYR, TRP-1, and MITF were decreased in a dose-dependent manner by the treatment with PN3. PN3 interfered with the phosphorylation of intracellular protein kinase A (PKA)/cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB), demonstrating potent anti-melanogenic effects. PN3 could inhibit PKA/CREB and the subsequent degradation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), resulting in the suppression of melanogenic enzymes and melanin production, probably because of the presence of flavonoid compounds. These properties make it a candidate as an additive to whitening cosmetics.

An inhibitory mechanism of action of a novel syringic-acid derivative on α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis

AIMS

To report the effects of a novel syringic-acid derivative, (R)-ethyl-2-acetamido-3-(4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzoylthio)propanoate (EABTO), on melanin synthesis and to identify its mechanism of action in B16F1 melanoma cells.

METHODS

The effects of EABTO on melanin synthesis in B16F1 cells and human epidermal melanocytes and the influence on cell-free tyrosinase activity were evaluated. EABTO-induced cellular signaling cascades were studied by western blotting.

KEY FINDINGS

EABTO effectively decreased melanin synthesis in a dose-dependent manner but had no effect on cell-free tyrosinase activity. EABTO significantly decreased the expression of melanogenic enzymes such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2. EABTO decreased the amounts of phosphorylated cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) and cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP), thereby inhibiting expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). Moreover, EABTO upregulated phosphorylated ERK. A specific ERK pathway inhibitor, PD98059, reduced EABTO-induced ERK phosphorylation and restored the expression of MITF and melanin content.

SIGNIFICANCE

EABTO inhibits melanogenesis in B16F1 melanoma cells via suppression of the cAMP-CREB pathway and activation of ERK, thus decreasing expression of MITF and of melanogenic enzymes.

Applications of Panax ginseng leaves-mediated gold nanoparticles in cosmetics relation to antioxidant, moisture retention, and whitening effect on B16BL6 cells

Background

Bioactive compounds in plant extracts are able to reduce metal ions to nanoparticles through the process of green synthesis. Panax ginseng is an oriental medicinal herb and an adaptogen which has been historically used to cure various diseases. In addition, the P. ginseng leaves-mediated gold nanoparticles are the value-added novel materials. Its potential as a cosmetic ingredient is still unexplored. The aim of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant, moisture retention and whitening properties of gold nanoparticles (PgAuNPs) in cosmetic applications.

Methods

Cell-free experiments were performed to evaluate PgAuNP's antioxidant and moisture retention properties and inhibition activity on mushroom tyrosinase. Furthermore, in vitro cell cytotoxicity was evaluated using normal human dermal fibroblast and murine B16BL6 melanoma cells (B16) after treatment with increasing concentrations of PgAuNPs for 24 h, 48 h, and 72 h. Finally, in vitro cell assays on B16 cells were performed to evaluate the whitening effect of PgAuNPs through reduction of cellular melanin content and tyrosinase activity.

Results

In vitro DPPH radical scavenging assay results revealed that PgAuNPs exhibited antioxidant activity in a dose-dependent manner. PgAuNPs exhibited moisture retention capacity and effectively inhibited mushroom tyrosinase. In addition, 3-(4,5-dimethyl-thiazol-2yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide results revealed that PgAuNPs were not toxic to human dermal fibroblast and B16 cells; in addition, they significantly reduced melanin content, tyrosinase activity, and mRNA expression of melanogenesis-associated transcription factor and tyrosinase in B16 cells.

Conclusion

Our study is the first report to provide evidence supporting that P. ginseng leaves-capped gold nanoparticles could be used as multifunctional ingredients in cosmetics.

Antimelanogenic effects of luteolin 7-sulfate isolated from Phyllospadix iwatensis Makino

BACKGROUND

Abnormal deposition of melanin may cause an aesthetic skin problem; therefore, the control of unwanted excessive melanin synthesis is the major goal of cosmetic research.

OBJECTIVES

To identify novel tyrosinase (TYR) inhibitors from marine plants and examine their cellular antimelanogenic effects.

METHODS

The extracts of 50 marine plants endemic to Korea were screened against human TYR. Active constituents were then isolated from the selected plant extracts that showed potential and their chemical structures elucidated. Furthermore, their antimelanogenic effects were examined using murine melanoma B16/F10 cells and human epidermal melanocytes (HEM).

RESULTS

Among the tested extracts, that of Phyllospadix iwatensis Makino exhibited the strongest human TYR inhibitory activity. The active constituents were purified from the butanol fraction of the P. iwatensis extract and identified as hispidulin 7-sulfate and luteolin 7-sulfate. Luteolin 7-sulfate inhibited human TYR more strongly than hispidulin 7-sulfate, luteolin, hispidulin and arbutin. Furthermore, luteolin 7-sulfate showed lower cytotoxicity than luteolin in both B16/F10 cells and HEM. Luteolin 7-sulfate attenuated cellular melanin synthesis more effectively in B16/F10 cells and HEM stimulated by α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone and l-tyrosine than arbutin.

CONCLUSIONS

This study demonstrates that luteolin 7-sulfate isolated from P. iwatensis is a human TYR inhibitor with advantageous antimelanogenic properties, and would be useful for development as a therapeutic agent for the control of unwanted skin pigmentation.

A Novel Role of Serotonin Receptor 2B Agonist as an Anti-Melanogenesis Agent

BW723C86, a serotonin receptor 2B agonist, has been investigated as a potential therapeutic for various conditions such as anxiety, hyperphagia and hypertension. However, the functional role of BW723C86 against melanogenesis remains unclear. In this study, we investigate the effect of serotonin receptor 2B (5-HTR2B) agonist on melanogenesis and elucidate the mechanism involved. BW723C86 reduced melanin synthesis and intracellular tyrosinase activity in melan-A cells and normal human melanocytes. The expression of melanogenesis-related proteins (tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2) and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in melan-A cells decreased after BW723C86 treatment. The promoter activity of MITF was also reduced by BW723C86 treatment. The reduced level of MITF was associated with inhibition of protein kinase A (PKA) and cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) activation by BW723C86 treatment. These results suggest that the serotonin agonist BW723C86 could be a potential therapeutic agent for skin hyperpigmentation disorders.

Anti-melanogenic effects of resveratryl triglycolate, a novel hybrid compound derived by esterification of resveratrol with glycolic acid

Resveratrol is known to inhibit cellular melanin synthesis by multiple mechanisms. Glycolic acid (GA) is used in skin care products for its excellent skin penetration. The purpose of this study was to examine the anti-melanogenic effects of resveratryl triglycolate (RTG), a novel hybrid compound of resveratrol and GA, in comparison with resveratrol, GA, resveratryl triacetate (RTA) and arbutin. Resveratrol, RTG, and RTA inhibited the catalytic activity human tyrosinase (TYR) more potently than arbutin or GA did. Their cytotoxic and anti-melanogenic effects were examined using murine melanoma B16/F10 cells and human epidermal melanocytes (HEMs). The cytotoxicity of RTG was similar to that of resveratrol and RTA. RTG at 3-10 μM decreased melanin levels and cellular TYR activities in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated B16/F10 cells, and L-tyrosine-stimulated HEMs. RTG also suppressed mRNA and protein expression of TYR, tyrosinase-related protein 1, L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine chrome tautomerase, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in HEMs stimulated with L-tyrosine. This study suggests that, like resveratrol and RTA, RTG can attenuate cellular melanin synthesis effectively through the suppression of MITF-dependent expression of melanogenic enzymes and the inhibition of catalytic activity of TYR enzyme. RTG therefore has potential for use as a cosmeceutical ingredient for skin whitening.

Sasa quelpaertensis Nakai extract suppresses porcine reproductive and respiratory syndrome virus replication and modulates virus-induced cytokine production

Although Sasa quelpaertensis Nakai, a dwarf bamboo, is known to exert a variety of beneficial effects on health, its antiviral effect remains to be elucidated. Porcine reproductive and respiratory syndrome virus (PRRSV) is one of the most devastating viral pathogens of swine and has a substantial economic impact on the global pork industry. Therefore, the present study was conducted to determine whether Sasa quelpaertensis Nakai extract (SQE) inhibits PRRSV infection in cultured porcine alveolar macrophages (PAMs). Our results demonstrated that SQE treatment suppressed the replication of PRRSV in a dose-dependent manner. The antiviral activity of SQE on PRRSV replication was found to be primarily exerted at early times postinfection. Treatment with SQE resulted in marked reduction of viral genomic and subgenomic RNA synthesis, viral protein expression, and progeny virus production. Notably, pro-inflammatory cytokine production in PAM cells infected with PRRSV was shown to be modulated in the presence of SQE. Taken together, our data indicate that SQE has potential as a therapeutic agent against PRRSV.

p-Coumaric Acid Attenuates UVB-Induced Release of Stratifin from Keratinocytes and Indirectly Regulates Matrix Metalloproteinase 1 Release from Fibroblasts

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation-induced loss of dermal extracellular matrix is associated with skin photoaging. Recent studies demonstrated that keratinocyte-releasable stratifin (SFN) plays a critical role in skin collagen metabolism by inducing matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP1) expression in target fibroblasts. In the present study, we examined whether SFN released from UVB-irradiated epidermal keratinocytes increases MMP1 release from dermal fibroblasts, and whether these events are affected by p-coumaric acid (p-CA), a natural phenolic compound with UVB-shielding and antioxidant properties. HaCaT cells were exposed to UVB in the absence and presence of p-CA, and the conditioned medium was used to stimulate fibroblasts in medium transfer experiments. The cells and media were analyzed to determine the expressions/releases of SFN and MMP1. UVB exposure increased SFN release from keratinocytes into the medium. The conditioned medium of UVB-irradiated keratinocytes increased MMP1 release from fibroblasts. The depletion of SFN using a siRNA rendered the conditioned medium of UVB-irradiated keratinocytes ineffective at stimulating fibroblasts to release MMP1. p-CA mitigated UVB-induced SFN expression in keratinocytes, and attenuated the MMP1 release by fibroblasts in medium transfer experiments. In conclusion, the present study demonstrated that the use of UV absorbers such as p-CA would reduce UV-induced SFN-centered signaling events involved in skin photoaging.

Sasa quelpaertensis Leaf Extract Inhibits Colon Cancer by Regulating Cancer Cell Stemness in Vitro and in Vivo

A rare subpopulation of cancer cells, termed cancer stem cells (CSCs), may be responsible for tumor relapse and resistance to conventional chemotherapy. The development of a non-toxic, natural treatment for the elimination of CSCs is considered a strategy for cancer treatment with minimal side effects. In the present study, the potential for Sasa quelpaertensis leaf extract (SQE) and its two bioactive compounds, tricin and p-coumaric acid, to exert anti-CSC effects by suppressing cancer stemness characteristics were evaluated in colon cancer cells. CD133⁺CD44⁺ cells were isolated from HT29 and HCT116 cell lines using flow-activated cell sorting (FACs). SQE treatment was found to significantly suppress the self-renewal capacity of both cell lines. SQE treatment was also associated with the down-regulation of β-catenin and phosphorylated GSK3β, while significantly enhancing cell differentiation by up-regulating CK20 expression and blocking the expression of several stem cell markers, including DLK1, Notch1, and Sox-2. In vivo, SQE supplementation suppressed tumor growth in a xenograft model by down-regulating stem cell markers and β-catenin as well as HIF-1α signaling. Compared with two bioactive compounds of SQE, SQE exhibited the most effective anti-CSC properties. Taken together, these results provide evidence that SQE inhibits colon cancer by regulating the characteristics of CSCs.

Differential Effects of Methoxylated p-Coumaric Acids on Melanoma in B16/F10 Cells

As an approach to search for chemopreventive agents, we tested p-coumaric acid, 3-methoxy-p-coumaric acid (ferulic acid), and 3,5-dimethoxy-p-coumaric acid (sinapic acid) in B16/F10 melanoma cells. Intracellular melanin contents were determined by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide assay and cytotoxicity of the compounds were examined by lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) release. p-Coumaric acid showed inhibitory effect on melanogenesis, but ferulic acid increased melanin content, and sinapic acid had almost no effect on melanogenesis. Treatment with ferulic acid resulted in a 2 to 3 fold elevation in the production of melanin. Correlatively, cell viability decreased in a dose-dependent manner when treated with ferulic acid. However, ferulic acid did not affect the LDH release from the cells. Treatment with sinapic acid resulted in a 50~60% elevation in the release of LDH when treated with a 200 μg/mL concentration and showed neither cytostasis nor increase of melanin synthesis in a dose-dependent manner. Taken together, p-coumaric acid inhibits melanogenesis, ferulic acid induces melanogenesis, and sinapic acid exerts cytotoxic effects in B16/F10 murine melanoma cells. The results indicate that the addition of methoxy groups to p-coumaric acid shows the melanogenic or cytotoxic effects in melanoma cells compared to the original compound. Therefore, this study suggests the possibility that methoxylated p-coumaric acid, ferulic acid can be used as a chemopreventive agent.

A study of the human skin-whitening effects of resveratryl triacetate

Resveratrol has a variety of bioactivities that include its anti-melanogenic effects, but its use in cosmetics has been challenging partly because of its chemical instability. Resveratryl triacetate (RTA) is a prodrug that can enhance stability. The purpose of this study was to examine the skin safety and whitening effects of RTA in human subjects. The primary skin irritation potentials of RTA and resveratrol were tested at 0.1 and 0.5 % on human subjects. Resveratrol at a concentration of 0.5 % induced weak skin irritation, whereas RTA did not induce any skin responses. The skin-whitening efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing 0.4 % RTA was evaluated in two different test models. In the artificial tanning model, the test product and the control product were applied twice daily to the skin of the forearms of 22 human subjects after pigmentation induction by ultraviolet irradiation. Applying the test and the control products to the artificial tanning model for 8 weeks increased the individual topology angles (ITA°) by 17.06 and 13.81 %, respectively, a difference that was statistically significant (p < 0.05). In the hyperpigmentation model, the test product and the control product were applied twice daily to the faces of 21 human subjects. The averaged intensity of the hyperpigmented spots decreased by 2.67 % in the test group and 1.46 % in the control group, a difference that was statistically significant (p < 0.05). Therefore, RTA incorporated into cosmetic formulations can whiten human skin without inducing skin irritation.

Effect of ginseng and ginsenosides on melanogenesis and their mechanism of action

Abnormal changes in skin color induce significant cosmetic problems and affect quality of life. There are two groups of abnormal change in skin color; hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation. Hyperpigmentation, darkening skin color by excessive pigmentation, is a major concern for Asian people with yellow–brown skin. A variety of hypopigmenting agents have been used, but treating the hyperpigmented condition is still challenging and the results are often discouraging. Panax ginseng has been used traditionally in eastern Asia to treat various diseases, due to its immunomodulatory, neuroprotective, antioxidative, and antitumor activities. Recently, several reports have shown that extract, powder, or some constituents of ginseng could inhibit melanogenesis in vivo or in vitro. The underlying mechanisms of antimelanogenic properties in ginseng or its components include the direct inhibition of key enzymes of melanogenesis, inhibition of transcription factors or signaling pathways involved in melanogenesis, decreasing production of inducers of melanogenesis, and enhancing production of antimelanogenic factor. Although there still remain some controversial issues surrounding the antimelanogenic activity of ginseng, especially in its effect on production of proinflammatory cytokines and nitric oxide, these recent findings suggest that ginseng and its constituents might be potential candidates for novel skin whitening agents.

Activators of AMPK: not just for Type II diabetes

Recent discoveries of AMPK activators point to the large number of therapeutic candidates that can be transformed to successful designs of novel drugs. AMPK is a universal energy sensor and influences almost all physiological processes in the cells. Thus, regulation of the cellular energy metabolism can be achieved in selective tissues via the artificial activation of AMPK by small molecules. Recently, special attention has been given to direct activators of AMPK that are regulated by several nonspecific upstream factors. The direct activation of AMPK, by definition, should lead to more specific biological activities and as a result minimize possible side effects.

Effects of resveratrol, oxyresveratrol, and their acetylated derivatives on cellular melanogenesis

Resveratrol and oxyresveratrol are naturally occurring phenolic compounds with various bioactivities, but their uses in cosmetics have been partly limited by their chemical instabilities. This study was performed to examine the anti-melanogenic effects of the acetylated derivatives from resveratrol and oxyresveratrol. Resveratrol and oxyresveratrol were chemically modified to triacetyl resveratrol and tetraacetyl oxyresveratrol, respectively. The acetylated compounds were less susceptible than the parent compounds to oxidative discoloration. The acetylated compounds inhibited the activities of tyrosinases less than parent compounds in vitro, but they were as effective at cellular melanogenesis inhibition, indicating bioconversion to parent compounds inside cells. Supporting this notion, the parent compounds were regenerated when the acetylated compounds were digested with cell lysates. Although resveratrol and triacetyl resveratrol inhibited tyrosinase activity less effectively than oxyresveratrol and tetraacetyl oxyresveratrol in vitro, they inhibited cellular melanogenesis more effectively. This discrepancy was explained by strong inhibition of tyrosinase expression by resveratrol and triacetyl resveratrol. Experiments using a reconstituted skin model indicated that resveratrol derivatives can affect melanin synthesis and cell viability to different extents. Collectively, this study suggests that acetylated derivatives of resveratrol have great potential as anti-melanogenic agents for cosmetic use in terms of efficacy, safety, and stability.

Tyrosol and its analogues inhibit alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone induced melanogenesis

Melanin is responsible for skin color and plays a major role in defending against harmful external factors such as ultraviolet (UV) irradiation. Tyrosinase is responsible for the critical steps of melanogenesis, including the rate-limiting step of tyrosine hydroxylation. The mechanisms of action of skin hypopigmenting agents are thought to be based on the ability of a given agent to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and, hence, down regulate melanin synthesis. Tyrosol and its glycoside, salidroside, are active components of Rhodiola rosea, and in our preliminary study we found that Rhodiola rosea extract inhibited melanogenesis. In this study, we examined the effects of tyrosol and its analogues on melanin synthesis. We found that treatment of B16F0 cells to tyrosol (1), 4-hydroxyphenylacetic acid (5), 3-hydroxyphenylacetic acid (6), 2-hydroxyphenylacetic acid (7), or salidroside (11) resulted in a reduction in melanin content and inhibition of tyrosinase activity as well as its expression. Tyrosol (1), 4-hydroxyphenylacetic acid (5) and 2-hydroxyphenylacetic acid (7) suppressed MC1R expression. Tyrosol (1), 4-hydroxyphenylacetic acid (5), 3-hydroxyphenylacetic acid (6), and 2-hydroxyphenylacetic acid (7) inhibited α-MSH induced TRP-1 expression, but salidroside (11) did not. All the compounds did not affect MITF and TRP-2 expression. Furthermore, we found that the cell viability of tyrosol (1), 4-hydroxyphenylacetic acid (5), 3-hydroxyphenylacetic acid (6), and 2-hydroxyphenylacetic acid (7) at concentrations below 4 mM and salidroside (11) at concentrations below 0.5 mM were higher than 90%. The compounds exhibited metal-coordinating interactions with copper ion in molecular docking with tyrosinase. Our results suggest that tyrosol, 4-hydroxyphenylacetic acid, 3-hydroxyphenylacetic acid, 2-hydroxyphenylacetic acid, and salidroside are potential hypopigmenting agents.

Caffeic acid phenethyl ester inhibits alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone-induced melanin synthesis through suppressing transactivation activity of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor

Caffeic acid phenethyl ester (1), a natural compound found in various plants and propolis, is a well-known anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory, and cytotoxic agent. The present study aimed to investigate the molecular events underlying the antimelanogenic activity of 1 in alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16-F10 melanoma cells. In this investigation, 1 effectively reduced α-MSH-stimulated melanin synthesis by suppressing expression of melanogenic enzymes such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2), although this compound did not directly inhibit tyrosinase enzyme activity. On the other hand, the expression and nuclear translocation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) as a key transcription factor for tyrosinase expression regulating melanogenesis were not affected by treatment with 1. The upstream signaling pathways including cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB), glycogen synthase kinase-3β (GSK-3β), and Akt for activation and expression of MITF were also not influenced by 1. Interestingly, 1 inhibited transcriptional activity of a tyrosinase promoter by suppressing the interaction of MITF protein with an M-box containing a CATGTG motif on the tyrosinase promoter. Given the important role of MITF in melanogenesis, suppression of 1 on the function of MITF to transactivate tyrosinase promoter may present a novel therapeutic approach to treat hyperpigmentation disorders.