Mechanism of tyrosinase inhibition by deoxyArbutin and its second-generation derivatives

Structural elucidation and development of azelaic acid loaded mesoporous silica nanoparticles infused gel: Revolutionizing nanodrug delivery for cosmetics and pharmaceuticals

This research aimed to enhance dermal delivery and optimize depigmentation therapy by designing mesoporous silica nanoparticles (MSNs) encapsulating azelaic acid (AZA) within a gel matrix. The MSNs were prepared using the sol-gel method. After subsequent processes, including acid extraction and drug loading, were then elucidated through PDI, size, zeta-potential, entrapment efficiency, nitrogen adsorption assay, FE-SEM, thermogravimetric analysis, differential scanning calorimetry, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, and tyrosinase inhibition assay, were employed to assess the formulation. In-vitro stability tests for both AZA-MSN gel (AZCG) and AZA-loaded mesoporous silica gel (AZMG) were conducted at 8 °C, 25 °C, 40 °C, and 40 °C + 75 % RH, encompassing assessments of color, liquefaction, pH, and conductivity. Our findings showed a notable entrapment efficiency of 93.46 % for AZA-MSNs, with FE-SEM illustrating porous spherical MSNs. The particle size of AZA-MSNs was determined to be 211.9 nm, with a pore size of 2.47 nm and XRD analysis confirmed the amorphous state of AZA within the MSN carriers. Rheology examination indicated a non-Newtonian flow, while ex-vivo rat skin permeation studies conducted in a phosphate buffer (pH = 5.5) demonstrated a biphasic release pattern with 85.53 % cumulative drug permeation for AZA-MSNs. Overall, the study endorse the potential of AZA-MSNs as an efficacious and stable formulation for AZA delivery, highlighting their promise in addressing pigmentation concerns compared to conventional approaches.

Characterization of a novel sucrose phosphorylase from Paenibacillus elgii and its use in biosynthesis of α-arbutin

α-Arbutin, a naturally occurring glycosylated derivative of hydroquinone (HQ), effectively inhibits melanin biosynthesis in epidermal cells. It is widely recognized as a fourth-generation whitening agent within the cosmetic industry. Currently, enzymatic catalysis is universally deemed the safest and most efficient method for α-arbutin synthesis. Sucrose phosphorylase (SPase), one of the most frequently employed glycosyltransferases, has been extensively reported for α-arbutin synthesis. In this study, a previously reported SPase known for its effectiveness in synthesizing α-arbutin, was used as a probe sequence to identify a novel SPase from Paenibacillus elgii (PeSP) in the protein database. The sequence similarity between PeSP and the probe was 39.71%, indicating a degree of novelty. Subsequently, the gene encoding PeSP was coexpressed with the molecular chaperone pG-Tf2 in Escherichia coli, significantly improving PeSP's solubility. Following this, PeSP was characterized and employed for α-arbutin biosynthesis. The specific activity of co-expressed PeSP reached 169.72 U/mg, exhibited optimal activity at 35℃ and pH 7.0, with a half-life of 3.6 h under the condition of 35℃. PeSP demonstrated excellent stability at pH 6.5-8.5 and sensitivity to high concentrations of metal ions. The kinetic parameters Km and kcat/Km were determined to be 14.50 mM and 9.79 min- 1·mM- 1, respectively.The reaction conditions for α-arbutin biosynthesis using recombinant PeSP were optimized, resulting in a maximum α-arbutin concentration of 52.60 g/L and a HQ conversion rate of 60.9%. The optimal conditions were achieved at 30℃ and pH 7.0 with 200 U/mL of PeSP, and by combining sucrose and hydroquinone at a molar ratio of 5:1 for a duration of 25 h.

Antioxidant activity, anti-tyrosinase activity, molecular docking studies, and molecular dynamic simulation of active compounds found in nipa palm vinegar

Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanogenesis and its inhibitors have become increasingly because of their potential activity as hypopigmenting agents which have less side effects. Nipa palm vinegar is an aqueous product that is normally used as a food supplement. The aim of this study was to study the determination of antioxidant activity and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of aqueous extract of original nipa palm vinegar (AE O-NPV), nipa palm vinegar powder (NPV-P) and aqueous extract of nipa palm vinegar powder (AE NPV-P) were examined. Nipa palm vinegars were evaluated the phenolic and flavonoid content, and the active compounds which were submitted to molecular docking and molecular dynamic simulation, chemoinformatics, rule of five, skin absorption and toxicity. The highest phenolic and flavonoid contents in the AE O-NPV were 2.36 ± 0.23 mg gallic acid equivalents/g extract and 5.11 ± 0.59 mg quercetin equivalents/g, and the highest ABTS radical cation scavenging activity was also found. The AE O-NPV, NPV-P and AE NPV-P showed anti-mushroom tyrosinase activity. The HPLC analysis showed that there were vanillic acid and three flavonoids (catechin, rutin and quercetin). The molecular docking study revealed that the binding of the vanillic acid and three flavonoids occurred in the active site residues (histidine and other amino acids). Moreover, the number of hydrogen bond acceptors/donors, solubility, polar surface area and bioavailability score of the vanillic acid and three flavonoids were acceptable compared to Lipinski's Rule of Five. The molecular dynamic simulation showed that vanillic acid interacts with HIS284 through π-π stacking hydrophobic interactions and forms a metal-acceptor interaction with the copper molecule at the tyrosinase active site. All compounds revealed good skin permeability and nontoxicity. Nipa palm vinegar could be a promising source of a new ingredient for tyrosinase inhibition for cosmetics or pharmaceutical products.

Tyrosinase Inhibitors Naturally Present in Plants and Synthetic Modifications of These Natural Products as Anti-Melanogenic Agents: A Review

Tyrosinase is a key enzyme target to design new chemical ligands against melanogenesis. In the current review, different chemical derivatives are explored which have been used as anti-melanogenic compounds. These are different chemical compounds naturally present in plants and semi-synthetic and synthetic compounds inspired by these natural products, such as kojic acid produced by several species of fungi; arbutin-a glycosylated hydroquinone extracted from the bearberry plant; vanillin-a phenolic aldehyde extracted from the vanilla bean, etc. After enzyme inhibition screening, various chemical compounds showed different therapeutic effects as tyrosinase inhibitors with different values of the inhibition constant and IC₅₀. We show how appropriately designed scaffolds inspired by the structures of natural compounds are used to develop novel synthetic inhibitors. We review the results of numerous studies, which could lead to the development of effective anti-tyrosinase agents with increased efficiency and safety in the near future, with many applications in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

From Biomass-Derived p-Hydroxycinnamic Acids to Novel Sustainable and Non-Toxic Phenolics-Based UV-Filters: A Multidisciplinary Journey

Although organic UV-filters are extensively used in cosmetics to protect consumers from the deleterious effects of solar UV radiation-exposure, they suffer from some major drawbacks such as their fossil origin and their toxicity to both humans and the environment. Thus, finding sustainable and non-toxic UV-filters is becoming a topic of great interest for the cosmetic industry. A few years ago, sinapoyl malate was shown to be a powerful naturally occurring UV-filter. Building on these findings, we decided to design and optimize an entire value chain that goes from biomass to innovative biobased and non-toxic lignin-derived UV-filters. This multidisciplinary approach relies on: 1) The production of phenolic synthons using either metabolite extraction from biomass or their bioproduction through synthetic biology/fermentation/in stream product recovery; 2) their functionalization using green chemistry to access sinapoyl malate and analogues; 3) the study of their UV-filtering activity, their photostability, their biological properties; and 4) their photodynamics. This mini-review aims at demonstrating that combining biotechnology, green chemistry, downstream process and photochemistry is a powerful approach to transform biomass and, in particular lignins, into high value-added innovative UV-filters.

Kojic Acid Showed Consistent Inhibitory Activity on Tyrosinase from Mushroom and in Cultured B16F10 Cells Compared with Arbutins

Kojic acid, β-arbutin, α-arbutin, and deoxyarbutin have been reported as tyrosinase inhibitors in many articles, but some contradictions exist in their differing results. In order to provide some explanations for these contradictions and to find the most suitable compound as a positive control for screening potential tyrosinase inhibitors, the activity and inhibition type of the aforementioned compounds on monophenolase and diphenolase of mushroom tyrosinase (MTYR) were studied. Their effects on B16F10 cells melanin content, tyrosinase (BTYR) activity, and cell viability were also exposed. Results indicated that α-arbutin competitively inhibited monophenolase activity, whereas they uncompetitively activated diphenolase activity of MTYR. β-arbutin noncompetitively and competitively inhibited monophenolase activity at high molarity (4000 µM) and moderate molarity (250–1000 µM) respectively, whereas it activated the diphenolase activity of MTYR. Deoxyarbutin competitively inhibited diphenolase activity, but could not inhibit monophenolase activity and only extended the lag time. Kojic acid competitively inhibited monophenolase activity and competitive–noncompetitive mixed-type inhibited diphenolase activity of MTYR. In a cellular experiment, deoxyarbutin effectively inhibited BTYR activity and reduced melanin content, but it also potently decreased cell viability. α-arbutin and β-arbutin dose-dependently inhibited BTYR activity, reduced melanin content, and increased cell viability. Kojic acid did not affect cell viability at 43.8–700 µM, but inhibited BTYR activity and reduced melanin content in a dose-dependent manner. Therefore, kojic acid was considered as the most suitable positive control among these four compounds, because it could inhibit both monophenolase and diphenolase activity of MTYR and reduce intercellular melanin content by inhibiting BTYR activity without cytotoxicity. Some explanations for the contradictions in the reported articles were provided.

Arbutin as a Skin Depigmenting Agent with Antimelanogenic and Antioxidant Properties

Arbutin is a compound of hydroquinone and D-glucose, and it has been over 30 years since there have been serious studies on the skin lightening action of this substance. In the meantime, there have been debates and validation studies about the mechanism of action of this substance as well as its skin lightening efficacy and safety. Several analogs or derivatives of arbutin have been developed and studied for their melanin synthesis inhibitory action. Formulations have been developed to improve the stability, transdermal delivery, and release of arbutin, and device usage to promote skin absorption has been developed. Substances that inhibit melanin synthesis synergistically with arbutin have been explored. The skin lightening efficacy of arbutin alone or in combination with other active ingredients has been clinically evaluated. Combined therapy with arbutin and laser could give enhanced depigmenting efficacy. The use of arbutin causes dermatitis rarely, and caution is recommended for the use of arbutin-containing products, especially from the viewpoint that hydroquinone may be generated during product use. Studies on the antioxidant properties of arbutin are emerging, and these antioxidant properties are proposed to contribute to the skin depigmenting action of arbutin. It is hoped that this review will help to understand the pros and cons of arbutin as a cosmetic ingredient, and will lead to future research directions for developing advanced skin lightening and protecting cosmetic products.

Novel Chemically Modified Curcumin (CMC) Analogs Exhibit Anti-Melanogenic Activity in Primary Human Melanocytes

Hyperpigmentation is a dermatological condition characterized by the overaccumulation and/or oversecretion of melanin pigment. The efficacy of curcumin as an anti-melanogenic therapeutic has been recognized, but the poor stability and solubility that have limited its use have inspired the synthesis of novel curcumin analogs. We have previously reported on comparisons of the anti-melanogenic activity of four novel chemically modified curcumin (CMC) analogs, CMC2.14, CMC2.5, CMC2.23 and CMC2.24, with that of parent curcumin (PC), using a B16F10 mouse melanoma cell model, and we have investigated mechanisms of inhibition. In the current study, we have extended our findings using normal human melanocytes from a darkly pigmented donor (HEMn-DP) and we have begun to study aspects of melanosome export to human keratinocytes. Our results showed that all the CMCs downregulated the protein levels of melanogenic paracrine mediators, endothelin-1 (ET-1) and adrenomedullin (ADM) in HaCaT cells and suppressed the phagocytosis of FluoSphere beads that are considered to be melanosome mimics. All the three CMCs were similarly potent (except CMC2.14, which was highly cytotoxic) in inhibiting melanin production; furthermore, they suppressed dendricity in HEMn-DP cells. CMC2.24 and CMC2.23 robustly suppressed cellular tyrosinase activity but did not alter tyrosinase protein levels, while CMC2.5 did not suppress tyrosinase activity but significantly downregulated tyrosinase protein levels, indicative of a distinctive mode of action for the two structurally related CMCs. Moreover, HEMn-DP cells treated with CMC2.24 or CMC2.23 partially recovered their suppressed tyrosinase activity after cessation of the treatment. All the three CMCs were nontoxic to human dermal fibroblasts while PC was highly cytotoxic. Our results provide a proof-of-principle for the novel use of the CMCs for skin depigmentation, since at low concentrations, ranging from 5 to 25 µM, the CMCs (CMC2.24, CMC2.23 and CMC2.5) were more potent anti-melanogenic agents than PC and tetrahydrocurcumin (THC), both of which were ineffective at melanogenesis at similar doses, as tested in HEMn-DP cells (with PC being highly toxic in dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes). Further studies to evaluate the efficacy of CMCs in human skin tissue and in vivo studies are warranted.

Novel Chemically Modified Curcumin (CMC) Derivatives Inhibit Tyrosinase Activity and Melanin Synthesis in B16F10 Mouse Melanoma Cells

Skin hyperpigmentation disorders arise due to excessive production of the macromolecular pigment melanin catalyzed by the enzyme tyrosinase. Recently, the therapeutic use of curcumin for inhibiting tyrosinase activity and production of melanin have been recognized, but poor stability and solubility have limited its use, which has inspired synthesis of curcumin analogs. Here, we investigated four novel chemically modified curcumin (CMC) derivatives (CMC2.14, CMC2.5, CMC2.23 and CMC2.24) and compared them to the parent compound curcumin (PC) for inhibition of in vitro tyrosinase activity using two substrates for monophenolase and diphenolase activities of the enzyme and for diminution of cellular melanogenesis. Enzyme kinetics were analyzed using Lineweaver-Burk and Dixon plots and nonlinear curve-fitting to determine the mechanism for tyrosinase inhibition. Copper chelating activity, using pyrocatechol violet dye indicator assay, and antioxidant activity, using a DPPH radical scavenging assay, were also conducted. Next, the capacity of these derivatives to inhibit tyrosinase-catalyzed melanogenesis was studied in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells and the mechanisms of inhibition were elucidated. Inhibition mechanisms were studied by measuring intracellular tyrosinase activity, cell-free and intracellular α-glucosidase enzyme activity, and effects on MITF protein level and cAMP maturation factor. Our results showed that CMC2.24 showed the greatest efficacy as a tyrosinase inhibitor of all the CMCs and was better than PC as well as a popular tyrosinase inhibitor-kojic acid. Both CMC2.24 and CMC2.23 inhibited tyrosinase enzyme activity by a mixed mode of inhibition with a predominant competitive mode. In addition, CMC2.24 as well as CMC2.23 showed a comparable robust efficacy in inhibiting melanogenesis in cultured melanocytes. Furthermore, after removal of CMC2.24 or CMC2.23 from the medium, we could demonstrate a partial recovery of the suppressed intracellular tyrosinase activity in the melanocytes. Our results provide a proof-of-principle for the novel use of the CMCs that shows them to be far superior to the parent compound, curcumin, for skin depigmentation.

The effect of Aspalathus linearis (Burm.f.) R.Dahlgren and its compounds on tyrosinase and melanogenesis

Pigmentation, a process controlled by melanogenesis, plays a vital role in protecting the skin against harmful ultraviolet rays. The level of protection is compromised in case of hypopigmentation. This study aimed to evaluate an Aspalathus linearis extract, fractions and phytoconstituents, for their efficacy on melanogenesis stimulation. Fifteen compounds were kinetically assessed against tyrosinase; the rate-limiting enzyme of melanogenesis. Aspalathin and catechin significantly (p value < 0.001) increased the enzymatic rate, showing 50% stimulatory effects at 119.70 ± 2.06 µg/mL and 143.30 ± 2.74 µg/mL, respectively, by acting as subversive substrates. Five compounds inhibited the enzyme’s activity, of which four exhibited competitive inhibition. To investigate the molecular interactions between the compounds and the active site, molecular docking was done, using tyrosinase (PBD: 2Y9X) and tyrosinase related protein 1 (PBD: 5M8P). All the compounds docked successfully with acceptable docking scores. Further quantitative structure–activity relationship analysis identified potential functional groups, linked to the specific activity. The crude extract, its fractions, and compounds exhibited low antiproliferative activity with 50% cell viability at concentrations higher than 100 µg/mL. Finally, both aspalathin and catechin exhibited a significant increase (4.5%) in melanin production at 119.82 µg/mL and 76.92 µg/mL, respectively. This is the first report of A. linearis’ compounds on skin re-pigmentation.

Comparison of 2% deoxyarbutin and 4% hydroquinone as a depigmenting agent in healthy individuals: A double-blind randomized controlled clinical trial

BACKGROUND

Hydroquinone, which is considered the gold standard skin depigmenting agent, has been associated with multiple side effects. Lately, deoxyarbutin has been suggested to be an alternative of hydroquinone with better safety profile.

OBJECTIVE

To compare the depigmenting effect of 2% deoxyarbutin and 4% hydroquinone sera.

METHODS

This double-blind randomized controlled study was done on the right and left arms of healthy participants. Subjects were instructed to apply either 2% deoxyarbutin or 4% hydroquinone serum on each arm, which were randomly labeled as group A and B, every day for 12 weeks. Chromameter and mexameter analysis were done every 2 weeks to assess the color change. Paired and independent t-tests were used to assess the color change within and between both groups, respectively.

RESULTS

A total of 59 females participated in this study. Both groups showed significant improvement in skin depigmentation as shown by the chromameter (increase in L* value) and mexameter (decrease in melanin index) analysis at the end of the study (p < 0.05). No significant difference in both parameters was observed between both groups (p > 0.05). No side effects were reported in either groups.

CONCLUSION

2% deoxyarbutin and 4% hydroquinone sera showed comparable depigmenting efficacy.

Combination and efficiency: preparation of dissolving microneedles array loaded with two active ingredients and its anti-pigmentation effects on guinea pigs

Hyperpigmentation is a common skin disorder caused by excessive melanogenesis and uneven dispersion of melanin in the skin. To combine multiple active agents with an efficient transdermal drug delivery system is an effective strategy to combat UV induced skin pigmentation. In this work, Arbutin (Arb) and Vitamin C (Vc) mixed in 1:1 were found to have the greatest inhibition effects on melanogenesis and tyrosinase activity in B16 murine melanoma cells. And hyaluronic acid (HA) based dissolving microneedles array (DMNA) was employed to overcome the skin barriers for improved topical drug delivery, which exhibited the most desirable features, including morphology, mechanical properties, dissolving ability, and the highest drug loading. Furthermore, DMNA could greatly increase the stability of Vc during storage without adding any antioxidant which is an important issue for Vc administration. Pharmacodynamics study showed that DMNA loaded with Arb and Vc could synergistically suppress UVB-induced hyperpigmentation in guinea pig skin. This work provides a promising treatment strategy and solution for skin pigmentation and other skin problems.

Innovative Bio-Based Organic UV-A and Blue Light Filters from Meldrum's Acid

Faced with the ban of some organic UV filters such as octinoxate or avobenzone, especially in Hawaii, it became essential to offer new alternatives that are both renewable and safe for humans and the environment. In this context, a class of bio-based molecules displaying interesting UV filter properties and great (photo)stability has been developed from Meldrum's acid and bio-based and synthetic p-hydroxycinnamic acids, furans and pyrroles. Moreover, p-hydroxycinnamic acid-based Meldrum's derivatives possess valuable secondary activities sought by the cosmetic industry such as antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase properties. The evaluation of the properties of mixture of judiciously chosen Meldrum's acid derivatives highlighted the possibility to modulate secondary activity while maintaining excellent UV protection. Meldrum's acid derivatives are not only competitive when benchmarked against organic filters currently on the market (i.e., avobenzone), but they also do not exhibit any endocrine disruption activity.

Topical treatment strategies to manipulate human skin pigmentation

Skin pigmentation is a result of melanin produced by melanocytes in the epidermis. Melanocyte activity, along with the type and distribution of melanins, is the main driver for diversity of skin pigmentation. Dark melanin acts to protect against the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation, including photo-aging and skin cancer formation. In turn, UV radiation activates skin melanocytes to induce further pigmentation (i.e., "tanning pathway"). The well-characterized MSH/MC1R-cAMP-MITF pathway regulates UV-induced melanization. Pharmacologic activation of this pathway ("sunless tanning") represents a potential strategy for skin cancer prevention, particularly in those with light skin or the "red hair" phenotype who tan poorly after UV exposure due to MC1R inactivating polymorphisms. Skin hyperpigmentation can also occur as a result of inflammatory processes and dermatological disorders such as melasma. While primarily of cosmetic concern, these conditions can dramatically impact quality of life of affected patients. Several topical agents are utilized to treat skin pigmentation disorders. Here, we review melanogenesis induced by UV exposure and the agents that target this pathway.

A comprehensive review on tyrosinase inhibitors

Tyrosinase is a multi-copper enzyme which is widely distributed in different organisms and plays an important role in the melanogenesis and enzymatic browning. Therefore, its inhibitors can be attractive in cosmetics and medicinal industries as depigmentation agents and also in food and agriculture industries as antibrowning compounds. For this purpose, many natural, semi-synthetic and synthetic inhibitors have been developed by different screening methods to date. This review has focused on the tyrosinase inhibitors discovered from all sources and biochemically characterised in the last four decades.

The Molecular Basis of Chemical Chaperone Therapy for Oculocutaneous Albinism Type 1A

Oculocutaneous albinism (OCA) is an autosomal recessive disease characterized by the reduction or complete lack of melanin pigment in the skin, hair, and eyes. No effective treatment for OCA is available at present. OCA type 1 is caused by mutations that disrupt the function of tyrosinase (TYR), the rate-limiting enzyme of melanin synthesis. Recently, it was shown that tyrosinase in some patients with OCA type 1 mutation is retained in the endoplasmic reticulum and that its catalytic activity is lost, a phenomenon known as endoplasmic reticulum retention. However, to our knowledge, the intracellular localization of tyrosinase in Japanese patients with OCA type 1 missense mutations has not been reported. In this study, we first investigated the intracellular localization of Japanese OCA type 1A missense mutant tyrosinases using Western blotting and immunohistochemical staining. R77Q, R239W, D383N, and P431L mutant tyrosinases were retained in the endoplasmic reticulum, and H211Y mutant tyrosinase was partially transported to the Golgi apparatus. Second, we explored the possibility of chemical chaperone therapy for Japanese patients with OCA type 1A missense mutations and found that HeLa cells expressing P431L mutant tyrosinase have restored tyrosinase activity after treatment with a low-dose tyrosinase inhibitor, as a chemical chaperone, in a dose-dependent manner. These results provide the basis for a possible chemical chaperone therapy to recover tyrosinase activities in patients with OCA type 1A patients.

Natural options for management of melasma, a review

A blemish free, even-toned skin is universally associated with healthy skin. This reasoning makes people desire to have a flawless skin. Melanin is a naturally occurring pigment in humans. This pigment is responsible for skin, hair, and eye color, therefore determines our race and phenotypic appearance. On darker skin types, it is common that melanin production processes malfunctions. These malfunctions often lead to overproduction and secretion of melanin. As a result, unwanted pigmentary problems such melasma occur. Due to unknown etiology and its recurrence in nature, melasma is challenging to treat. The current available melasma treatment options often produce undesired side effects and suboptimum results. First-line topical treatments usually involve hydroquinone or topical steroids. Apart from the irritant reactions, this treatment mode is not suitable for all skin types. Skin care specialists are in search of an effective long-term cosmetics and cosmeceuticals to address hypermelanosis problems. Understanding of naturally occurring depigmenting agents provides an opportunity for more effective ways to manage melasma in all skin types. This review considers the benefits of naturally occurring ingredients which could help address skin pigmentation problems and broaden the choice for skin-lightening treatments.

Structural and kinetic considerations on the catalysis of deoxyarbutin by tyrosinase

Deoxyarbutin, a potent inhibitor of tyrosinase, could act as substrate of the enzyme. Oxytyrosinase is able to hydroxylate deoxyarbutin and finishes the catalytic cycle by oxidizing the formed o-diphenol to quinone, while the enzyme becomes deoxytyrosinase, which evolves to oxytyrosinase in the presence of oxygen. This compound is the only one described that does not release o-diphenol after the hydroxylation step. Oxytyrosinase hydroxylates the deoxyarbutin in ortho position of the phenolic hydroxyl group by means of an aromatic electrophilic substitution. As the oxygen orbitals and the copper atoms are not coplanar, but in axial/equatorial position, the concerted oxidation/reduction cannot occur and the release of a copper atom to bind again in coplanar position, enabling the oxidation/reduction or release of the o-diphenol from the active site to the medium. In the case of deoxyarbutin, the o-diphenol formed is repulsed by the water due to its hydrophobicity, and so can bind correctly and be oxidized to a quinone before being released. Deoxyarbutin has been characterized with: [Formula: see text] = 1.95 ± 0.06 s-1 and [Formula: see text] = 33 ± 4 μM. Computational simulations of the interaction of β-arbutin, deoxyarbutin and their o-diphenol products with tyrosinase show how these ligands bind at the copper centre of tyrosinase. The presence of an energy barrier in the release of the o-diphenol product of deoxyarbutin, which is not present in the case of β-arbutin, together with the differences in polarity and, consequently differences in their interaction with water help understand the differences in the kinetic behaviour of both compounds. Therefore, it is proposed that the release of the o-diphenol product of deoxyarbutin from the active site might be slower than in the case of β-arbutin, contributing to its oxidation to a quinone before being released from the protein into the water phase.

Study of Hydroquinone Mediated Cytotoxicity and Hypopigmentation Effects from UVB-Irradiated Arbutin and DeoxyArbutin

Arbutin (Arb) and deoxyArbutin (dA) are both effective hypopigmentation agents. However, they are glucoside derivatives of hydroquinone (HQ), which may be decayed into HQ under higher energy environments. Therefore, safety and toxicity are very important issues when considering the usage of these compounds. However, no study has verified the properties of Ultra-Violet B (UVB)-irradiated Arb and dA. In this work, we investigated the cytotoxicity and hypopigmentation effects of UVB-irradiated Arb and dA in Detroit 551 human fibroblast cells and B16-F10 mouse melanoma cells. The results showed that UVB-irradiated Arb and dA have strong cytotoxicity for the fibroblast cells, especially for dA, the caspase-3 is also activated by the treatment of UVB-irradiated dA in Detroit 551 cells. The results correlated with the produced HQ. In addition, UVB-irradiated Arb and dA suppressed the production of melanin in melanoma cells; this is due to the release of HQ that compensates for the UVB triggered Arb and dA decomposition.

The unravelling of the complex pattern of tyrosinase inhibition

Tyrosinases are responsible for melanin formation in all life domains. Tyrosinase inhibitors are used for the prevention of severe skin diseases, in skin-whitening creams and to avoid fruit browning, however continued use of many such inhibitors is considered unsafe. In this study we provide conclusive evidence of the inhibition mechanism of two well studied tyrosinase inhibitors, KA (kojic acid) and HQ (hydroquinone), which are extensively used in hyperpigmentation treatment. KA is reported in the literature with contradicting inhibition mechanisms, while HQ is described as both a tyrosinase inhibitor and a substrate. By visualization of KA and HQ in the active site of TyrBm crystals, together with molecular modeling, binding constant analysis and kinetic experiments, we have elucidated their mechanisms of inhibition, which was ambiguous for both inhibitors. We confirm that while KA acts as a mixed inhibitor, HQ can act both as a TyrBm substrate and as an inhibitor.

Natural, semisynthetic and synthetic tyrosinase inhibitors

Tyrosinase plays a pivotal role in the synthesis of melanin pigment synthesis on skin utilizing tyrosine as a substrate. Melanin is responsible for the protection against harmful ultraviolet irradiation, which can cause significant pathological conditions, such as skin cancers. However, it can also create esthetic problems when accumulated as hyperpigmented spots. Various skin-whitening ingredients which inhibit tyrosinase activity have been identified. Some of them, especially ones with natural product origins, possess phenolic moiety and have been employed in cosmetic products. Semi-synthetic and synthetic inhibitors have also been developed under inspiration of the natural inhibitors yet some of which have no phenolic groups. In this review, tyrosinase inhibitors with natural, semi-synthetic and synthetic origins are listed up with their structures, activities and characteristics. Further, a recent report on the adverse effect of a natural melanin synthesis inhibitor which was included in skin-whitening cosmetics is also briefly discussed.

Antimelanogenic chemicals with in vivo efficacy against skin pigmentation in guinea pigs

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation under sunlight stimulates skin pigmentation through immediately affecting the oxidative modification of existing melanin pigments and the spatial redistribution of pigmented melanosomes followed by the up-regulation of melanogenic genes in delayed kinetics. However, abnormal accumulation and synthesis of melanin biopolymers are responsible for skin disorders with more pigmented patches. Chemical-based regulation of the hyperpigmented disorders has been a long-standing goal for cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. A large number of the chemicals with antimelanogenic activity have met with limited or no success in the treatment of skin patients, since they may not overcome the challenge of penetrating the skin barrier. Guinea pig skin displays similar kinetic parameters to human skin in the transdermal absorption of numerous chemicals, thus can serve as the surrogate for human skin. Here, we provide a concise review of our current understanding of the chemical-based therapy against skin hyperpigmentation in UV-irradiated guinea pig models, suggest molecular mechanisms of the action and emphasize the translation from preclinical outcomes to skin patients.

Molecular docking studies of a phlorotannin, dieckol isolated from Ecklonia cava with tyrosinase inhibitory activity

In this study, the phlorotannin dieckol, which was isolated from the brown alga Ecklonia cava, was examined for its inhibitory effects on melanin synthesis. Tyrosinase inhibitors are important agents for cosmetic products. We therefore examined the inhibitory effects of dieckol on mushroom tyrosinase and melanin synthesis, and analyzed its binding modes using the crystal structure of Bacillus megaterium tyrosinase (PDB ID: 3NM8). Dieckol inhibited mushroom tyrosinase with an IC(50) of 20μM and was more effective as a cellular tyrosinase having melanin reducing activities than the commercial inhibitor, arbutin, in B16F10 melanoma cells, and without apparent cytotoxicity. It was found that dieckol behaved as a non-competitive inhibitor with l-tyrosine substrates. For further insight, we predicted the 3D structure of tyrosinase and used a docking algorithm to simulate binding between tyrosinase and dieckol. These molecular modeling studies were successful (calculated binding energy value: -126.12kcal/mol), and indicated that dieckol interacts with His208, Met215, and Gly46. These results suggest that dieckol has great potential to be further developed as a pharmaceutical or cosmetic agent for use in dermatological disorders associated with melanin.

Study on the stability of deoxyArbutin in an anhydrous emulsion system

The skin-whitening agent, deoxyArbutin, is a potent tyrosinase inhibitor that is safer than hydroquinone and arbutin. However, it is thermolabile in aqueous solutions, where it decomposes to hydroquinone. Pharmaceutical and cosmetic emulsions are normally oil-in-water (o/w) or water-in-oil (w/o) systems; however, emulsions can be formulated with no aqueous phase to produce an anhydrous emulsion system. An anhydrous emulsion system could offer a stable vehicle for compounds that are sensitive to hydrolysis or oxidation. Therefore, to enhance the stability of deoxyArbutin in formulations, we chose the polyol-in-silicone, anhydrous emulsion system as the basic formulation for investigation. The quantity of deoxyArbutin and the accumulation of hydroquinone in both hydrous and anhydrous emulsions at various temperatures were analyzed through an established high performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method. The results indicated that water increased the decomposition of deoxyArbutin in the formulations and that the polyol-in-silicone, oil-based, anhydrous emulsion system provided a relatively stable surrounding for the deoxyArbutin that delayed its degradation at 25 °C and 45 °C. Moreover, the composition of the inner hydrophilic phase, containing different amounts of glycerin and propylene glycol, affected the stability of deoxyArbutin. Thus, these results will be beneficial when using deoxyArbutin in cosmetics and medicines in the future.

The melanogenesis and mechanisms of skin-lightening agents--existing and new approaches

Skin-lightening products are commercially available for cosmetic purposes to obtain lighter skin complexion. Clinically, they are also used for treatment of hyperpigmentary disorders such as melasma, café au lait spot and solar lentigo. All of these target naturally melanin production, and many of the commonly used agents are known as competitive inhibitors of tyrosinase, one of the key enzymes in melanogenesis. In this review, we present an overview of commonly used skin-whitening ingredients that are commercialized, but we also hypothesize on other mechanisms that could be important targets to control skin pigmentation such as for example regulation of the adrenergic and glutaminergic signalling and also control of tetrahydrobiopterins in the human skin.

Determination of the thermodegradation of deoxyArbutin in aqueous solution by high performance liquid chromatography

Tyrosinase is the key and rate-limiting enzyme responsible for the conversion of tyrosine into melanin. Competitive inhibition of tyrosinase enzymatic activity results in decreased or absent melanin synthesis by melanocytes in human skin. DeoxyArbutin (4-[(tetrahydro-2H-pyran-2-yl)oxy]phenol), a novel skin whitening agent, was synthesized through the removal of hydroxyl groups from the glucose side-chain of arbutin. DeoxyArbutin not only shows greater inhibition of tyrosinase activity but is also safer than hydroquinone and arbutin. Hence, deoxyArbutin is a potential skin whitening agent for cosmetics and depigmenting drugs; however, stability of this compound under some conditions remains a problem. The lack of stability poses developmental and practical difficulties for the use of deoxyArbutin in cosmetics and medicines. Improving the thermostability of deoxyArbutin is an important issue for its development. In this research, we established an analytical procedure to verify the amount of deoxyArbutin in solutions using a high performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method. The results indicate that this novel skin whitening agent is a thermolabile compound in aqueous solutions. Additionally, the rate constant for thermodegradation (k) and the half-life (t(1/2)) of deoxyArbutin were determined and can be used to understand the thermodegradation kinetics of deoxyArbutin. This information can aid in the application of deoxyArbutin for many future uses.

Topical treatment of melasma

Melasma is a common hypermelanotic disorder affecting the face that is associated with considerable psychological impacts. The management of melasma is challenging and requires a long-term treatment plan. In addition to avoidance of aggravating factors like oral pills and ultraviolet exposure, topical therapy has remained the mainstay of treatment. Multiple options for topical treatment are available, of which hydroquinone (HQ) is the most commonly prescribed agent. Besides HQ, other topical agents for which varying degrees of evidence for clinical efficacy exist include azelaic acid, kojic acid, retinoids, topical steroids, glycolic acid, mequinol, and arbutin. Topical medications modify various stages of melanogenesis, the most common mode of action being inhibition of the enzyme, tyrosinase. Combination therapy is the preferred mode of treatment for the synergism and reduction of untoward effects. The most popular combination consists of HQ, a topical steroid, and retinoic acid. Prolonged HQ usage may lead to untoward effects like depigmentation and exogenous ochronosis. The search for safer alternatives has given rise to the development of many newer agents, several of them from natural sources. Well-designed controlled clinical trials are needed to clarify their role in the routine management of melasma.

Mechanisms regulating skin pigmentation: the rise and fall of complexion coloration

Skin pigmentary abnormalities are seen as aesthetically unfavorable and have led to the development of cosmetic and therapeutic treatment modalities of varying efficacy. Hence, several putative depigmenting agents aimed at modulating skin pigmentation are currently being researched or sold in commercially available products. In this review we will discuss the regulation of processes that control skin complexion coloration. This includes direct inhibition of tyrosinase and related melanogenic enzymes, regulation of melanocyte homeostasis, alteration of constitutive and facultative pigmentation and down-regulation of melanosome transfer to the keratinocytes. These various processes, in the complex mechanism of skin pigmentation, can be regulated individually or concomitantly to alter complexion coloration and thus ameliorate skin complexion diseases.