Emollient molecule effects on the drying stresses in human stratum corneum

Thermal Gradient Infrared Spectroscopy for Diffusion in Polymers

Time-resolved Fourier transform infrared-attenuated total reflectance spectroscopy (FTIR-ATR) was used to measure diffusion in opaque and translucent samples. FTIR-ATR was used to measure the change in the absorbance near the heated ATR crystal surface. The infrared absorbance was then related to the concentration through the Beer-Lambert law. The sample used is a polymer electrolyte composed of lithium bis-trifluoromethanesulfonylimide (LiTFSI) salt in a block copolymer polystyrene-poly(ethylene oxide) (SEO). A new approach to introduce concentration gradients is presented using a temperature gradient that creates a small salt concentration gradient due to thermally driven mass diffusion (the Soret effect). This first method was compared to a second method that we reported using two laminated polymer electrolyte films of different salt concentrations. The thermal gradient study (method 1) covered three temperature differences of 10, 15, and 20 °C, while the second study (method 2) used three average molar ratios across isothermal temperatures ranging from 80 to 120 °C. The benefits and limitations of the new approach are reported, as is the activation energy for salt diffusion in this and similar SEO electrolytes. Developing new techniques to measure diffusion coefficients effectively will aid in the development of a variety of devices, including solid-state batteries and thermogalvanic cells, that are able to convert waste heat into electricity and improve the efficiency of power-generating systems. FTIR-ATR overcomes previous limitations in experimental techniques measuring diffusion coefficients. The results prove that thermal gradient FTIR-ATR is an effective and repeatable approach for determining Fickian diffusion coefficients in viscoelastic solids.

Sensory neuron activation from topical treatments modulates the sensorial perception of human skin

Neural signaling of skin sensory perception from topical treatments is often reported in subjective terms such as a sensation of skin "tightness" after using a cleanser or "softness" after applying a moisturizer. However, the mechanism whereby cutaneous mechanoreceptors and corresponding sensory neurons are activated giving rise to these perceptions has not been established. Here, we provide a quantitative approach that couples in vitro biomechanical testing and detailed computational neural stimulation modeling along with a comprehensive in vivo self-assessment survey to demonstrate how cutaneous biomechanical changes in response to treatments are involved in the sensorial perception of the human skin. Strong correlations are identified between reported perception up to 12 hours post treatment and changes in the computed neural stimulation from mechanoreceptors residing deep under the skin surface. The study reveals a quantitative framework for understanding the biomechanical neural activation mechanism and the subjective perception by individuals.

A Review of Moisturizers; History, Preparation, Characterization and Applications

Moisturizers are one of the most widely used preparations in cosmetics and have been extensively used to soften the skin for consumers. Moisturizers work effectively in combating dry skin which may cause pain, tightness, itch, stinging, and/or tingling. The aim of this review is to evaluate published studies on the history, ingredients, preparation processes, characteristics, uses, and applications of moisturizers. Moisturizers bridge the gap between medicine and consumer goods by being used to make the skin more beautiful and healthy. In the future, in moisturizer therapy, the capacity to adapt specific agents to specific dermatological demands will be crucial. Cosmetically, moisturizers make the skin smooth by the mechanism of increasing the water content in the stratum corneum, hence exerting its most vital action, which is moisturizing action and maintaining a normal skin pH.

Bio-based alternatives to volatile silicones: Relationships between chemical structure, physicochemical properties and functional performances

Emollient oils are ubiquitous ingredients of personal care products, especially skin care and hair care formulations. They offer excellent spreading properties and give end-use products a soft, pleasant and non-sticky after-feel. Emollients belong to various petro- or bio-based chemical families among which silicone oils, hydrocarbons and esters are the most prominent. Silicones have exceptional physicochemical and sensory properties but their high chemical stability results in very low biodegradability and a high bioaccumulation potential. Nowadays, consumers are increasingly responsive to environmental issues and demand more environmentally friendly products. This awareness strongly encourages cosmetics industries to develop bio-based alternatives to silicone oils. Finding effective silicon-free emollients requires understanding the molecular origin of emollience. This review details the relationships between the molecular structures of emollients and their physicochemical properties as well as the resulting functional performances in order to facilitate the design of alternative oils with suitable physicochemical and sensory properties. The molecular profile of an ideal emollient in terms of chemical function (alkane, ether, ester, carbonate, alcohol), optimal number of carbons and branching is established to obtain an odourless oil with good spreading on the skin. Since none of the carbon-based emollients alone can imitate the non-sticky and dry feel of silicone oils, it is judicious to blend alkanes and esters to significantly improve both the sensory properties and the solubilizing properties of the synergistic mixture towards polar ingredients (sun filters, antioxidants, fragrances). Finally, it is shown how modelling tools (QSPR, COSMO-RS and neural networks) can predict in silico the key properties of hundreds of virtual candidate molecules in order to synthesize only the most promising whose predicted properties are close to the specifications.

Ectoine disperses keratin and alters hydration kinetics in stratum corneum

Moisturizing compounds are commonly applied topically to human stratum corneum (SC). Many types of molecular species are employed, most commonly including humectants and occlusives. We find new evidence of keratin dispersion caused by the moisturizing compound ectoine (1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid), and provide the first characterization of its impacts on the hydration kinetics and biomechanics of SC. A second compound, 2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethylguanidine succinate (HEG) was investigated for comparison. A suite of biomechanical and biochemical assays including FTIR, drying stress, and cellular cohesion were used. Studies were conducted on normal, lipid-extracted, and lipid plus natural moisturizing factor extracted SC. Ectoine was found to improve the dispersity and hydration of keratin bundles in corneocytes. It also decreased rates of stress development in lipid extracted SC when exposed to a dry environment by ∼30% while improving stress reduction during rehydration by ∼20%. Peak stresses were increased in harsh drying environments of <5% RH, but SC swelling measurements suggest that water retention was improved in ambient conditions. Further, changes up to ∼4 J/m² were seen in cohesion after ectoine treatments, suggesting corneodesmosome interactions. HEG was tested and found to disperse keratin without impacting corneodesmosomes. These results indicate that keratin dispersants produce beneficial effects on SC hydration kinetics, ultimately resulting in higher SC hydration under ambient conditions.

•

First study demonstrating the biomechanical impact of keratin dispersion on human skin

•

Ectoine disperses keratin bundles in human stratum corneum

•

Rates of drying stress development are reduced in keratin-dispersed skin

•

Rehydration rates are increased in keratin-dispersed skin

•

Keratin dispersion alters corneocyte cohesion profiles

Comprehensive characterization of the structure and properties of human stratum corneum relating to barrier function and skin hydration: modulation by a moisturizer formulation

The stratum corneum (SC) is key in the maintenance of the biomechanical barrier and hydration of skin. Our previous investigations showed beneficial effects of a combination of emollients on water capture and retention and protein and lipid organization, all of which are linked to dryness and dry skin damage. Here, we show how a formulation containing an emollient combination ("Trio") and its basal formulation (placebo) impacted the descriptors of SC hydration in SC layers. Only the Trio formulation-not its placebo formulation-modified SC biomechanical drying stress behaviour and imparted a high capacity to protect it from dehydration. This was in accordance with findings at the molecular level using Raman analyses and at the structural level using cryo-scanning electron microscopy (SEM). After topical application, only the Trio formulation profoundly increased lateral packing of lipids and their compactness. Cryo-SEM showed that, unlike the placebo formulation, the Trio formulation prevented the water loss when applied before the dehydration process. In conclusion, these studies demonstrate that stresses in the SC due to dehydration can be alleviated using a formulation containing emollients that interact with the SC lipid components.

Emollient structure and chemical functionality effects on the biomechanical function of human stratum corneum

OBJECTIVE

Cosmetic emollients are widely used in skincare formulations due to their ability to 'soften' the skin and modulate formulation spreadability. Though emollients are commonly used, little is known about their effects on the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC), which play a critical role in consumer perception of formulation efficacy. Accordingly, our objective was to provide new insights with a study involving fourteen cosmetic emollient molecules with widely varying structures, molecular weights, SC diffusivities, topological polar surface areas (TPSAs), viscosities and chemical functionalities.

METHODS

Mechanical stress in the SC was measured in vitro using a substrate curvature measurement technique. Stress development due to SC drying was measured before and after topical treatment with cosmetic emollients. Emollient diffusivity and alterations to lipid content in SC after treatment were measured via ATR-FTIR spectroscopy. The maximum penetration volume of emollient in SC was characterized to elucidate mechanisms underlying emollient effects on stress.

RESULTS

The application of all cosmetic emollients caused a reduction in SC mechanical stress under dehydrating conditions, and a linear correlation was discovered between emollient penetration volume and the degree of stress reduction. These molecules also induced increases in stress equilibration rate, signalling changes to SC transport kinetics. Stress equilibration rate increases linearly correlated with decreasing intensity of the νCH2 band, indicating a previously unknown interaction between cosmetic emollients and SC lipids. Stress and penetration volume results were rationalized in terms of a multi-parameter model including emollient molecular weight, diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity.

CONCLUSION

We provide a new rational basis for understanding the effects of cosmetic emollient choice on biomechanical properties affecting SC barrier function and consumer perception. We demonstrate for the first time that emollients very likely reduce SC mechanical stress through their ability to take up volume when penetrating the SC, and how molecular weight, SC diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity are predictive of this ability. As cosmetic formulations continue to evolve to meet the needs of customers, emollient molecules can be selected that not only contribute to formulation texture and/or spreadability but that also leverage this novel connection between emollient penetration and SC biomechanics.

Effect of emulsifiers on drying stress and intercellular cohesion in human stratum corneum

OBJECTIVES

Emulsifier molecules, with their amphiphilic character, are ubiquitous in moisturizing creams and primarily serve to disperse the water-insoluble molecules such as emollients, oils, lipids and fats in water. The objective of this study was to investigate the effect of emulsifier molecules on the barrier and biomechanical properties of human stratum corneum (SC) and to compare the efficacy of emulsifier molecules when used in a fully formulated moisturizing cream.

METHODS

We employed methods based on thin-film mechanics to measure the drying stress and intercellular cohesion in the SC. The emulsifier molecules or moisturizing creams formulated with them were applied to a fully hydrated SC adhered to a glass substrate. In-plane stress developed in the SC during drying was then measured by tracking changes in the curvature of the glass substrate. The intercellular cohesion within the SC was measured by means of a double cantilever beam (DCB) set-up, where the treated or untreated SC was sandwiched between two substrates, and the delamination energy calculated by measuring the force required to drive a crack through the SC. Moisturizing cream diffusivity through the stratum corneum was measured by spectroscopic technique and related to internal SC stress and fracture energy.

RESULTS

We observe significant differences in the biomechanical behaviour of SC when moisturizing creams with different emulsifier molecules are applied on isolated stratum corneum ex vivo. The reduction in maximum stress varied between 12% and 26% depending on the emulsifier molecules used in the formulation. The intercellular cohesion and the diffusion of molecules in the formulated moisturizing creams through the SC were also found to be strongly dependent on the type of emulsifier molecule used in the formulation.

CONCLUSIONS

The biomechanical and barrier properties of the human stratum corneum show strong dependence on the emulsifier molecule used in the moisturizing creams, even when the creams included only ~3 weight% emulsifier molecules. Moreover, we found that the reduction in SC peak stress was strongly correlated with the formulation diffusivity into the SC. The moisturizing creams diffusing fastest into the SC had the largest reduction in peak stress and vice versa.

Role of sunscreen formulation and photostability to protect the biomechanical barrier function of skin

The impact of sunscreen formulations on the barrier properties of human skin are often overlooked leading to formulations with components whose effects on barrier mechanical integrity are poorly understood. The aim of this study is to demonstrate the relevance of carrier selection and sunscreen photostability when designing sunscreen formulations to protect the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC) from solar ultraviolet (UV) damage. Biomechanical properties of SC samples were assayed after accelerated UVB damage through measurements of the SC's mechanical stress profile and corneocyte cohesion. A narrowband UVB (305-315 nm) lamp was used to expose SC samples to 5, 30, 125, and 265 J cm-2 in order to magnify damage to the mechanical properties of the tissue and characterize the UV degradation dose response such that effects from smaller UV dosages can be extrapolated. Stresses in the SC decreased when treated with sunscreen components, highlighting their effect on the skin prior to UV exposure. Stresses increased with UVB exposure and in specimens treated with different sunscreens stresses varied dramatically at high UVB dosages. Specimens treated with sunscreen components without UVB exposure exhibited altered corneocyte cohesion. Both sunscreens studied prevented alteration of corneocyte cohesion by low UVB dosages, but differences in protection were observed at higher UVB dosages indicating UV degradation of one sunscreen. These results indicate the protection of individual sunscreen components vary over a range of UVB dosages, and components can even cause alteration of the biomechanical barrier properties of human SC before UV exposure. Therefore, detailed characterization of sunscreen formulation components is required to design robust protection from UV damage.

Interactions between surfactants and the skin - Theory and practice

One of the primary causes of skin irritation is the use of body wash cosmetics and household chemicals, since they are in direct contact with the skin, and they are widely available and frequently used. The main ingredients of products of this type are surfactants, which may have diverse effects on the skin. The skin irritation potential of surfactants is determined by their chemical and physical properties resulting from their structure, and specific interactions with the skin. Surfactants are capable of interacting both with proteins and lipids in the stratum corneum. By penetrating through this layer, surfactants are also able to affect living cells in deeper regions of the skin. Further skin penetration may result in damage to cell membranes and structural components of keratinocytes, releasing proinflammatory mediators. By causing irreversible changes in cell structure, surfactants can often lead to their death. The paper presents a critical review of literature on the effects of surfactants on the skin. Aspects discussed in the paper include the skin irritation potential of surfactants, mechanisms underlying interactions between compounds of this type and the skin which have been proposed over the years, and verified methods of reducing the skin irritation potential of surfactant compounds. Basic research conducted in this field over many years translate into practical applications of surfactants in the cosmetic and household chemical industries. This aspect is also emphasized in the present study.

Measuring and Modeling Contractile Drying in Human Stratum Corneum

Stratum corneum (SC) is the most superficial skin layer. Its contact with the external environment means that this tissue layer is subjected to both cleansing agents and daily variations in ambient moisture; both of which can alter the water content of the tissue. Reductions in water content from severe barrier dysfunction or low humidity environments can alter SC stiffness and cause a build-up of drying stresses. In extreme conditions, these factors can cause mechanical rupture of the tissue. We have established a high throughput method of quantifying dynamic changes in the mechanical properties of SC upon drying. This technique can be employed to quantify changes in the drying behavior and mechanical properties of SC with cosmetic cleanser and moisturizer treatments. This is achieved by measuring dynamic variations in spatially resolved in-plane drying displacements of circular tissue samples adhered to an elastomer substrate. In-plane radial displacements acquired during drying are azimuthally averaged and fitted with a profile based on a linear elastic contractility model. Dynamic changes in drying stress and SC elastic modulus can then be extracted from the fitted model profiles.

Screening sunscreens: protecting the biomechanical barrier function of skin from solar ultraviolet radiation damage

OBJECTIVE

Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is ubiquitous in human life and well known to cause skin damage that can lead to harmful conditions such as erythema. Although sunscreen is a popular form of protection for some of these conditions, it is unclear whether sunscreen can maintain the mechanical barrier properties of skin. The objective of this study was to determine whether in vitro thin-film mechanical analysis techniques adapted for biological tissue are able to characterize the efficacy of commonly used UV inhibitors and commercial sunscreens to protect the biomechanical barrier properties of stratum corneum (SC) from UV exposure.

METHODS

The biomechanical properties of SC samples were assayed through measurements of the SC's drying stress profile and delamination energy. The drying stresses within SC were characterized from the curvature of a borosilicate glass substrate onto which SC had been adhered. Delamination energies were characterized using a double-cantilever beam (DCB) cohesion testing method. Successive DCB specimens were prepared from previously separated specimens by adhering new substrates onto each side of the already tested specimen to probe delamination energies deeper into the SC. These properties of the SC were measured before and after UV exposure, both with and without sunscreens applied, to determine the role of sunscreen in preserving the barrier function of SC.

RESULTS

The drying stress in SC starts increasing sooner and rises to a higher plateau stress value after UVA exposure as compared to non-UV-exposed control specimens. For specimens that had sunscreen applied, the UVA-exposed and non-UV-exposed SC had similar drying stress profiles. Additionally, specimens exposed to UVB without protection from sunscreen exhibited significantly lower delamination energies than non-UV-exposed controls. With commercial sunscreen applied, the delamination energy for UV-exposed and non-UV-exposed tissue was consistent, even up to large doses of UVB.

CONCLUSION

In vitro thin-film mechanical analysis techniques can readily characterize the effects of SC's exposure to UV radiation. The methods used in this study demonstrated commercial sunscreens were able to preserve the biomechanical properties of SC during UV exposure, thus indicating the barrier function of SC was also maintained.

The global mechanical properties and multi-scale failure mechanics of heterogeneous human stratum corneum

The outermost layer of skin, or stratum corneum, regulates water loss and protects underlying living tissue from environmental pathogens and insults. With cracking, chapping or the formation of exudative lesions, this functionality is lost. While stratum corneum exhibits well defined global mechanical properties, macroscopic mechanical testing techniques used to measure them ignore the structural heterogeneity of the tissue and cannot provide any mechanistic insight into tissue fracture. As such, a mechanistic understanding of failure in this soft tissue is lacking. This insight is critical to predicting fracture risk associated with age or disease. In this study, we first quantify previously unreported global mechanical properties of isolated stratum corneum including the Poisson's ratio and mechanical toughness. African American breast stratum corneum is used for all assessments. We show these parameters are highly dependent on the ambient humidity to which samples are equilibrated. A multi-scale investigation assessing the influence of structural heterogeneities on the microscale nucleation and propagation of cracks is then performed. At the mesoscale, spatially resolved equivalent strain fields within uniaxially stretched stratum corneum samples exhibit a striking heterogeneity, with localized peaks correlating closely with crack nucleation sites. Subsequent crack propagation pathways follow inherent topographical features in the tissue and lengthen with increased tissue hydration. At the microscale, intact corneocytes and polygonal shaped voids at crack interfaces highlight that cracks propagate in superficial cell layers primarily along intercellular junctions. Cellular fracture does occur however, but is uncommon.

STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE

Human stratum corneum protects the body against harmful environmental pathogens and insults. Upon mechanical failure, this barrier function is lost. Previous studies characterizing the mechanics of stratum corneum have used macroscopic testing equipment designed for homogenous materials. Such measurements ignore the tissue's rich topography and heterogeneous structure, and cannot describe the underlying mechanistic process of tissue failure. For the first time, we establish a mechanistic insight into the failure mechanics of soft heterogeneous tissues by investigating how cracks nucleate and propagate in stratum corneum. We further quantify previously unreported values of the tissue's Poisson's ratio and toughness, and their dramatic variation with ambient humidity. To date, skin models examining drug delivery, wound healing, and ageing continue to estimate these parameters.

Importance of Water Content of the Stratum Corneum in Mouse Models for Contact Hypersensitivity

Although a marked rise in the prevalence of allergic diseases over the past few decades may be related to environmental factors in industrialized countries, evidence for the protective effect of humidity on the barrier function of the skin is still awaited. We asked whether an increase in the water content of stratum corneum at the site of hapten application had a strong impact on the magnitude of contact hypersensitivity (CHS). The magnitude of CHS, induced by either lipid-soluble or water-soluble hapten, was inversely correlated with the water content of stratum corneum at the hapten application site in the elicitation phase. An increase in the water content induced by exposure to high humidity for 6 hours was sufficient to ameliorate the magnitude of CHS even in mice with the genetic defect in attenuating the CHS responses, such as flaky tail mice. The reduced CHS was associated with downregulation of IL-1α, IL-4, and IFN-γ mRNA expression. Epicutaneously applied hapten can penetrate more readily through the stratum corneum with lower water content than that with higher water content, even after tape-stripping. These findings indicate that increased levels of water in the stratum corneum serve to ameliorate the CHS beyond the genetic effects.

Understanding age-induced alterations to the biomechanical barrier function of human stratum corneum

BACKGROUND

The appearance and function of human skin are dramatically altered with aging, resulting in higher rates of severe xerosis and other skin complaints. The outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), is responsible for the biomechanical barrier function of skin and is also adversely transformed with age. With age the keratin filaments within the corneocytes are prone to crosslinking, the amount of intercellular lipids decreases resulting in fewer lipid bilayers, and the rate of corneocyte turnover decreases.

OBJECTIVES

The effect of these structural changes on the mechanical properties of the SC has not been determined. Here we determine how several aspects of the SC's mechanical properties are dramatically degraded with age.

METHODS

We performed a range of biomechanical experiments, including micro-tension, bulge, double cantilever beam, and substrate curvature testing on abdominal stratum corneum from cadaveric female donors ranging in age from 29 to 93 years old.

RESULTS

We found that the SC stiffens with age, indicating that the keratin fibers stiffen, similarly to collagen fibers in the dermis. The cellular cohesion also increases with age, a result of the altered intercellular lipid structure. The kinetics of water movement through the SC is also decreased.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results indicate that the combination of structural and mechanical property changes that occur with age are quite significant and may contribute to the prevalence of skin disorders among the elderly.

A mechanistic insight into the mechanical role of the stratum corneum during stretching and compression of the skin

The study of skin biophysics has largely been driven by consumer goods, biomedical and cosmetic industries which aim to design products that efficiently interact with the skin and/or modify its biophysical properties for health or cosmetic benefits. The skin is a hierarchical biological structure featuring several layers with their own distinct geometry and mechanical properties. Up to now, no computational models of the skin have simultaneously accounted for these geometrical and material characteristics to study their complex biomechanical interactions under particular macroscopic deformation modes. The goal of this study was, therefore, to develop a robust methodology combining histological sections of human skin, image-processing and finite element techniques to address fundamental questions about skin mechanics and, more particularly, about how macroscopic strains are transmitted and modulated through the epidermis and dermis. The work hypothesis was that, as skin deforms under macroscopic loads, the stratum corneum does not experience significant strains but rather folds/unfolds during skin extension/compression. A sample of fresh human mid-back skin was processed for wax histology. Sections were stained and photographed by optical microscopy. The multiple images were stitched together to produce a larger region of interest and segmented to extract the geometry of the stratum corneum, viable epidermis and dermis. From the segmented structures a 2D finite element mesh of the skin composite model was created and geometrically non-linear plane-strain finite element analyses were conducted to study the sensitivity of the model to variations in mechanical properties. The hybrid experimental-computational methodology has offered valuable insights into the simulated mechanics of the skin, and that of the stratum corneum in particular, by providing qualitative and quantitative information on strain magnitude and distribution. Through a complex non-linear interplay, the geometry and mechanical characteristics of the skin layers (and their relative balance), play a critical role in conditioning the skin mechanical response to macroscopic in-plane compression and extension. Topographical features of the skin surface such as furrows were shown to act as an efficient means to deflect, convert and redistribute strain-and so stress-within the stratum corneum, viable epidermis and dermis. Strain reduction and amplification phenomena were also observed and quantified. Despite the small thickness of the stratum corneum, its Young׳s modulus has a significant effect not only on the strain magnitude and directions within the stratum corneum layer but also on those of the underlying layers. This effect is reflected in the deformed shape of the skin surface in simulated compression and extension and is intrinsically linked to the rather complex geometrical characteristics of each skin layer. Moreover, if the Young׳s modulus of the viable epidermis is assumed to be reduced by a factor 12, the area of skin folding is likely to increase under skin compression. These results should be considered in the light of published computational models of the skin which, up to now, have ignored these characteristics.

Adjuvant Effect of an Alternative Plasticizer, Diisopropyl Adipate, on a Contact Hypersensitivity Mouse Model: Link with Sensory Ion Channel TRPA1 Activation

Due to health concerns about phthalate esters, the use of alternative plasticizers is being considered. Phthalate esters enhance skin sensitization to fluorescein isothiocyanate (FITC) in mouse models. We have demonstrated that phthalate esters stimulate transient receptor potential ankyrin 1 (TRPA1) cation channels expressed on sensory neurons. We also found a correlation between TRPA1 activation and the enhancing effect on FITC-induced contact hypersensitivity (CHS) when testing various types of phthalate esters. Here we investigated the effects of an alternative plasticizer, diisopropyl adipate (DIA). Activation of TRPA1 by DIA was demonstrated by calcium mobilization using Chinese hamster ovary cells expressing TRPA1 in vitro. The effect of DIA was inhibited by a TRPA1-specific antagonist, HC-030031. The presence of DIA or dibutyl phthalate (DBP; positive control) during skin sensitization of BALB/c mice to FITC augmented the CHS response, as revealed by the level of ear-swelling. The enhancing effect of DIA was inhibited by in vivo pretreatment with HC-030031. FITC-presenting CD11c(+) dendritic cell (DC)-trafficking to draining lymph nodes was facilitated both by DIA and by DBP. DBP and DIA were similarly active in the enhancement of interferon-γ production by draining lymph nodes, but the effect on interleukin-4 production was weaker with DIA. Overall, DIA activated TRPA1 and enhanced FITC-induced CHS, as DBP did. The adjuvant effects of adipate esters may need to be considered because they are used as ingredients in cosmetics and drug formulations topically applied to the skin.

The relationship between water loss, mechanical stress, and molecular structure of human stratum corneum ex vivo

Proper hydration of the stratum corneum (SC) is important for maintaining skin's vital functions. Water loss causes development of drying stresses, which can be perceived as 'tightness', and plays an important role in dry skin damage processes. However, molecular structure modifications arising from water loss and the subsequent development of stress has not been established. We investigated the drying stress mechanism by studying, ex vivo, the behaviors of the SC components during water desorption from initially fully hydrated samples using Raman spectroscopy. Simultaneously, we measure the SC mechanical stress with a substrate curvature instrument. Very good correlations of water loss to the mechanical stress of the stratum corneum were obtained, and the latter was found to depend mainly on the unbound water fraction. In addition to that, the water loss is accompanied with an increase of lipids matrix compactness characterized by lower chain freedom, while protein structure showed an increase in amount of α-helices, a decline in α-sheets, and an increase in folding in the tertiary structure of keratin. The drying process of SC involves a complex interplay of water binding, molecular modifications, and mechanical stress. This article provides a better understanding of the molecular mechanism associated to SC mechanics.

UV damage and sun care: deciphering mechanics of skin to develop next generation therapies

Some ultraviolet radiation (UV) is essential to the body as it stimulates the production of vitamin D, yet overexposure has deleterious consequences for the skin. UV induces structural and cellular changes across the different layers of skin tissue leading to mechanical and oxidative stress. Both are critical parameters that can help us better understand and assess dermatological photodamage. While there is a developing body of research to quantify biomarkers of oxidative stress in skin, our knowledge of the magnitude of mechanical stresses in skin has been limited until recently due to the scarcity of methods to quantify the stress state of the tissue. In this regard, what is really exciting is that thin-film characterization and image correlation techniques have recently been successful in measuring the stress state of the tissue both in vitro and in vivo. In the next decade, quantifying UV-induced damage and the efficacy of sunscreens in preventing and treating photodamage will become an increasing focus in skin science research. An improved understanding of the magnitude of skin stresses will help us to better understand skin damage and appearance processes, such as cracking and wrinkling, and measure with accuracy both short-term and long-term effects of treatments.

Solar UV radiation reduces the barrier function of human skin

The ubiquitous presence of solar UV radiation in human life is essential for vitamin D production but also leads to skin photoaging, damage, and malignancies. Photoaging and skin cancer have been extensively studied, but the effects of UV on the critical mechanical barrier function of the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), are not understood. The SC is the first line of defense against environmental exposures like solar UV radiation, and its effects on UV targets within the SC and subsequent alterations in the mechanical properties and related barrier function are unclear. Alteration of the SC's mechanical properties can lead to severe macroscopic skin damage such as chapping and cracking and associated inflammation, infection, scarring, and abnormal desquamation. Here, we show that UV exposure has dramatic effects on cell cohesion and mechanical integrity that are related to its effects on the SC's intercellular components, including intercellular lipids and corneodesmosomes. We found that, although the keratin-controlled stiffness remained surprisingly constant with UV exposure, the intercellular strength, strain, and cohesion decreased markedly. We further show that solar UV radiation poses a double threat to skin by both increasing the biomechanical driving force for damage while simultaneously decreasing the skin's natural ability to resist, compromising the critical barrier function of the skin.

Growing skin: tissue expansion in pediatric forehead reconstruction

Tissue expansion is a common surgical procedure to grow extra skin through controlled mechanical over-stretch. It creates skin that matches the color, texture, and thickness of the surrounding tissue, while minimizing scars and risk of rejection. Despite intense research in tissue expansion and skin growth, there is a clear knowledge gap between heuristic observation and mechanistic understanding of the key phenomena that drive the growth process. Here, we show that a continuum mechanics approach, embedded in a custom-designed finite element model, informed by medical imaging, provides valuable insight into the biomechanics of skin growth. In particular, we model skin growth using the concept of an incompatible growth configuration. We characterize its evolution in time using a second-order growth tensor parameterized in terms of a scalar-valued internal variable, the in-plane area growth. When stretched beyond the physiological level, new skin is created, and the in-plane area growth increases. For the first time, we simulate tissue expansion on a patient-specific geometric model, and predict stress, strain, and area gain at three expanded locations in a pediatric skull: in the scalp, in the forehead, and in the cheek. Our results may help the surgeon to prevent tissue over-stretch and make informed decisions about expander geometry, size, placement, and inflation. We anticipate our study to open new avenues in reconstructive surgery and enhance treatment for patients with birth defects, burn injuries, or breast tumor removal.

Experience of using peroral cosmetic products from the Emolium series in the complex therapy of children suffering from atopic dermatitis

The authors summarized the current data on the function of the epidermal barrier, mechanisms of its affection and its role in the development of atopic dermatitis. They present the results confirming the efficacy of complex administration of basic skin care products in the therapy of children suffering from atopic dermatitis. Basic skin care products were cosmetic products from the Emolium series in the form of cream and emulsion as well as skin hygiene products (bath emulsion, cream washing gel).