Disorders of pigmentation

Discovery of Novel Diesters Incorporating Kojic Acid With NSAIDs and Palmitic Acid as Dual Inhibitor of Melanogenesis and Inflammation

Our study focuses on creating hybrid compounds and assessing their suitability for use in skincare products. The synergistic combination of Kojic acid, NSAIDs, and Palmitic acid proved to be an effective approach in inhibiting melanin production, making it a promising solution for individuals with hyperpigmentation concerns with Kojic acid (KA) Ibuprofen monoester (IBUM) and Ibuprofen-Kojic acid-Palmitic acid diester (IBUD) exhibiting a potential tyrosinase (38 % and 49 % inhibition at 200 µM) and anti-melanogenesis activity (77 % and 79 % inhibition at 100 µM). Furthermore, these compounds exhibited potent anti-inflammatory effects, Kojic acid-Diclofenac monoester (DICM) and Diclofenac-Kojic acid-Palmitic acid diester (DICD) offering potential benefits for inflammation by lowering the paw volume. A stability study under chemical conditions and enzymatic conditions was also performed, wherein DICM and DICD showed a better half-life of 515, 593 h under chemical stability and 6.3, 7.5 h under enzymatic stability studies respectively. The diester hybrids IBUD, DICD, Naproxen-Kojic acid-Palmitic acid diester (NAPD) showed a better permeation and penetration profiles compared to their parent drugs. In-vitro cell line studies were conducted to assess the safety and efficacy of these hybrid esters, with promising results. The dual inhibitor demonstrated minimal cytotoxicity and remarkable anti-melanogenic and anti-inflammatory activities, showing its potential as a versatile agent in addressing both melanogenesis and inflammation.

Melanin Biopolymers in Pharmacology and Medicine-Skin Pigmentation Disorders, Implications for Drug Action, Adverse Effects and Therapy

Melanins are biopolymeric pigments formed by a multi-step oxidation process of tyrosine in highly specialized cells called melanocytes. Melanin pigments are mainly found in the skin, iris, hair follicles, and inner ear. The photoprotective properties of melanin biopolymers have been linked to their perinuclear localization to protect DNA, but their ability to scavenge metal ions and antioxidant properties has also been noted. Interactions between drugs and melanins are of clinical relevance. The formation of drug-melanin complexes can affect both the efficacy of pharmacotherapy and the occurrence of adverse effects such as phototoxic reactions and discoloration. Because the amount and type of melanin synthesized in the body is subject to multifactorial regulation-determined by both internal factors such as genetic predisposition, inflammation, and hormonal balance and external factors such as contact with allergens or exposure to UV radiation-different effects on the melanogenesis process can be observed. These factors can directly influence skin pigmentation disorders, resulting in hypopigmentation or hyperpigmentation of a genetic or acquired nature. In this review, we will present information on melanocyte biology, melanogenesis, and the multifactorial influence of melanin on pharmacological parameters during pharmacotherapy. In addition, the types of skin color disorders, with special emphasis on the process of their development, symptoms, and methods of treatment, are presented in this article.

Anti-Melanogenic Effects of Lilium lancifolium Root Extract via Downregulation of PKA/CREB and MAPK/CREB Signaling Pathways in B16F10 Cells

Hyperpigmentation disorders causing emotional distress require the topical use of depigmenting agents of natural origin. In this study, the anti-melanogenic effects of the Lilium lancifolium root extract (LRE) were investigated in B16F10 cells. Consequently, a non-cytotoxic concentration of the extract reduced intracellular melanin content and tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner, correlating with the diminished expression of core melanogenic enzymes within cells. LRE treatment also inhibited cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) response element-binding protein (CREB)/microphthalmia-associated transcription factor signaling, which regulates the expression of tyrosinase-related genes. Upon examining these findings from a molecular mechanism perspective, LRE treatment suppressed the phosphorylation of protein kinase A (PKA), p38, and extracellular signal-related kinase (ERK), which are upstream regulators of CREB. In addition, L-phenylalanine and regaloside A, specifically identified within the LRE using liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry, exhibited inhibitory effects on melanin production. Collectively, these results imply that LRE potentially suppresses cAMP-mediated melanogenesis by downregulating PKA/CREB and mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/CREB signaling pathways. Therefore, it can be employed as a novel therapeutic ingredient of natural origin to ameliorate hyperpigmentation disorders.

Generation of skin tone and pigmented region-modified images using a pigment discrimination model trained with an optical approach

BACKGROUND

Skin tone and pigmented regions, associated with melanin and hemoglobin, are critical indicators of skin condition. While most prior research focuses on pigment analysis, the capability to simulate diverse pigmentation conditions could greatly broaden the range of applications. However, current methodologies have limitations in terms of numerical control and versatility.

METHODS

We introduce a hybrid technique that integrates optical methods with deep learning to produce skin tone and pigmented region-modified images with numerical control. The pigment discrimination model produces melanin, hemoglobin, and shading maps from skin images. The outputs are reconstructed into skin images using a forward problem-solving approach, with model training aimed at minimizing the discrepancy between the reconstructed and input images. By adjusting the melanin and hemoglobin maps, we create pigment-modified images, allowing precise control over changes in melanin and hemoglobin levels. Changes in pigmentation are quantified using the individual typology angle (ITA) for skin tone and melanin and erythema indices for pigmented regions, validating the intended modifications.

RESULTS

The pigment discrimination model achieved correlation coefficients with clinical equipment of 0.915 for melanin and 0.931 for hemoglobin. The alterations in the melanin and hemoglobin maps exhibit a proportional correlation with the ITA and pigment indices in both quantitative and qualitative assessments. Additionally, regions overlaying melanin and hemoglobin are demonstrated to verify independent adjustments.

CONCLUSION

The proposed method offers an approach to generate modified images of skin tone and pigmented regions. Potential applications include visualizing alterations for clinical assessments, simulating the effects of skincare products, and generating datasets for deep learning.

Methoxyflavones from Black Ginger (Kaempferia parviflora Wall. ex Baker) and their Inhibitory Effect on Melanogenesis in B16F10 Mouse Melanoma Cells

Kaempferia parviflora Wall. ex Baker (Zingiberaceae), commonly known as Thai ginseng or black ginger, is a tropical medicinal plant in many regions. It has been traditionally used to treat various ailments, including ulcers, dysentery, gout, allergies, abscesses, and osteoarthritis. As part of our ongoing phytochemical study aimed at discovering bioactive natural products, we investigated potential bioactive methoxyflavones from K. parviflora rhizomes. Phytochemical analysis aided by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) led to the isolation of six methoxyflavones (1-6) from the n-hexane fraction of the methanolic extract of K. parviflora rhizomes. The isolated compounds were structurally determined to be 3,7-dimethoxy-5-hydroxyflavone (1), 5-hydroxy-7-methoxyflavone (2), 7,4'-dimethylapigenin (3), 3,5,7-trimethoxyflavone (4), 3,7,4'-trimethylkaempferol (5), and 5-hydroxy-3,7,3',4'-tetramethoxyflavone (6), based on NMR data and LC-MS analysis. All of the isolated compounds were evaluated for their anti-melanogenic activities. In the activity assay, 7,4'-dimethylapigenin (3) and 3,5,7-trimethoxyflavone (4) significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin content in IBMX-stimulated B16F10 cells. In addition, structure-activity relationship analysis revealed that the methoxy group at C-5 in methoxyflavones is key to their anti-melanogenic activity. This study experimentally demonstrated that K. parviflora rhizomes are rich in methoxyflavones and can be a valuable natural resource for anti-melanogenic compounds.

Comparative study of doxycycline, sancycline, and 4-dedimethylamino sancycline (CMT-3) on epidermal melanogenesis

Melanogenesis is regulated by melanocytes, which synthesize the pigment melanin inside melanosomes; these melanosomes are exported through dendritic extensions to adjacent keratinocytes and result in skin coloration. Chemically modified tetracyclines (CMTs) are nonantimicrobial tetracyclines that retain the capacity to inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and have shown several biological benefits; in particular, CMT-3 [(4-dedimethylamino sancycline (SAN)] has emerged as a candidate for therapeutic benefits in our previous studies. However, to date, studies of the effects of CMT-3 or SAN on melanogenesis are lacking. We have previously reported the anti-melanogenic activity of CMT-308 (the 9-amino derivative of CMT-3). Herein, we have compared the three tetracycline analogs, doxycycline (DOX), SAN, and CMT-3, for their effects on melanogenesis using B16F10 mouse melanoma cells and have validated results in primary human melanocytes (HEMn-DP). DOX did not show any significant effects on intracellular melanin or melanosome export in DP cells while SAN was cytotoxic at high doses but without effects on melanogenesis at lower doses. However, CMT-3 showed a robust suppression of dendricity parameters (dendrite number, dendrite length, and proportion of dendritic cells) in DP cells which was associated, at least in part, with a significant reduction of intracellular tyrosinase activity. In spite of its inhibition of tyrosinase activity, CMT-3 had no significant effects on intracellular melanin levels, suggesting that it selectively targets melanosome export. Our results demonstrate a unique structure-activity relationship (SAR) for the effects of these compounds on melanogenesis and support the conclusion that removal of the 4-dimethylamino moiety confers the selective capacity to suppress melanosome export. Collectively, these results indicate that CMT-3 might be a candidate for diminishing hyperpigmentation skin disorders.

Chemical Composition and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activities of Fatty Acids Obtained from Heterotrophic Microalgae, S. limacinum and C. cohnii

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme for melanin production in plant and mammalian cells. Upregulation of this enzyme results in hyperpigmentation disorders. In order to treat pigmentation problems, novel skin whitening compounds are extremely screened. It is found that fatty acids based on their saturation levels either increase or decrease tyrosinase enzyme activity. Thus, fatty acids and their compositions are promising candidates for the treatment of hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation disorders. Microalgae are rich in both saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, as well. In this study, C. cohnii and S. limacinum fatty acids were evaluated as tyrosinase inhibitor candidates. Mushroom tyrosinase activity studies displayed that both extracts increase tyrosinase enzyme activity dose-dependently. On the other hand, S. limacinum at 200 µg ml^-1 concentration almost decreased half of tyrosinase enzyme activity in B16-F10 cells. Besides, it was 3 times more efficient for tyrosinase enzyme activity inhibition and 2 times more effective to decrease melanin synthesis compared to C. cohnii. Considering low toxicity to B16-F10 melanoma and healthy keratinocyte cells (HaCaT), S. limacinum fatty acids could be a suitable source for lipid-based tyrosinase inhibitory functional cosmetics products.

A systematic exploration reveals the potential of spermidine for hypopigmentation treatment through the stabilization of melanogenesis-associated proteins

Spermidine (SPD), a polyamine naturally present in living organisms, is known to prolong the lifespan of animals. In this study, the role of SPD in melanogenesis was investigated, showing potential as a pigmenting agent. SPD treatment increased melanin production in melanocytes in a dose dependent manner. Computational analysis with RNA-sequencing data revealed the alteration of protein degradation by SPD treatment without changes in the expressions of melanogenesis-related genes. Indeed, SPD treatment significantly increased the stabilities of tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1 and -2 while inhibiting ubiquitination, which was confirmed by treatment of proteasome inhibitor MG132. Inhibition of protein synthesis by cycloheximide (CHX) showed that SPD treatment increased the resistance of TRP-1 and TRP-2 to protein degradation. To identify the proteins involved in SPD transportation in melanocytes, the expression of several solute carrier (SLC) membrane transporters was assessed and, among 27 transporter genes, SLC3A2, SLC7A1, SLC18B1, and SLC22A18 were highly expressed, implying they are putative SPD transporters in melanocytes. Furthermore, SLC7A1 and SLC22A18 were downregulated by SPD treatment, indicating their active involvement in polyamine homeostasis. Finally, we applied SPD to a human skin equivalent and observed elevated melanin production. Our results identify SPD as a potential natural product to alleviate hypopigmentation.

Serotonin (5-HT) 2A Receptor Involvement in Melanin Synthesis and Transfer via Activating the PKA/CREB Signaling Pathway

The 5-HT2A serotonin receptor (HTR2A) has been reported to be involved in the serotonin- or serotonin receptor 2A agonist-induced melanogenesis in human melanoma cells. However, the molecular mechanisms underlying HTR2A in regulating melanogenesis remain poorly understood. In this research, cultured mouse melanoma cell line B16F10, human skin, and zebrafish embryos were used to elucidate the downstream signaling of HTR2A in regulating melanogenesis and to verify the potential application of HTR2A in the treatment of pigment-associated cutaneous diseases. We demonstrated that HTR2A antagonists (AT1015 and ketanserin) attenuated the melanogenesis induction of serotonin in both mouse melanoma cells and zebrafish embryos. The agonists of HTR2A (DOI and TCB-2) increased melanin synthesis and transfer in B16F10 cells, human skin tissue, and zebrafish embryos. Furthermore, the HTR2A agonists increased the expression of proteins related to melanosome organization and melanocyte dendrites to facilitate the melanocyte migration and melanosome transport. HTR2A antagonists and genetic knockout of zebrafish htr2aa (the homologue of mammalian HTR2A gene) were also used to clarify that HTR2A mediates serotonin and DOI in regulating melanogenesis. Finally, through small scale screening of the candidate downstream pathway, we demonstrated that HTR2A mediates the melanogenesis induction of its ligands by activating the PKA/CREB signaling pathway. In this research, we further confirmed that HTR2A is a crucial protein to mediate melanocyte function. Meanwhile, this research supports that HTR2A could be designed as a drug target for the development of chemicals to treat cutaneous diseases with melanocytes or melanogenesis abnormality.

Identification of Potential Blind-Side Hypermelanosis-Related lncRNA–miRNA–mRNA Regulatory Network in a Flatfish Species, Chinese Tongue Sole (Cynoglossus semilaevis)

Blind-side hypermelanosis has emerged as a major concern in commercial rearing environments of the flatfish aquaculture industry. To date, the underlying molecular mechanisms are not well understood. To fill this gap, in this study, whole transcriptomic sequencing and analyses were performed using normal skins and hypermelanic skins of the blind side of Chinese tongue sole (Cynoglossus semilaevis). Differentially expressed long non-coding RNAs (DElncRNAs), miRNAs (DEmiRNAs), and differentially expressed genes as well as their competing endogenous RNA (ceRNA) networks were identified. A total of 34 DElncRNAs, 226 DEmiRNAs, and 610 DEGs were identified. Finally, lncRNA–miRNA–mRNA regulatory networks (involving 29 DElncRNAs, 106 DEmiRNAs, and 162 DEGs) associated with blind-side hypermelanosis were constructed. Gene Ontology (GO) and Kyoto Encyclopedia of Genes and Genomes (KEGG) enrichment analyses of 162 DEGs in ceRNA networks identified DEGs (e.g., oca2, mc1r, and ihhb) in pigmentation-related biological processes and DEGs (e.g., ca4, glul, and fut9) in nitrogen metabolism, glycosphingolipid biosynthesis, and folate biosynthesis pathways, as well as their corresponding DElncRNAs and DEmiRNAs to potentially play key regulatory roles in blind-side hypermelanosis. In conclusion, this is the first study on the ceRNA regulatory network associated with blind-side hypermelanosis in flatfish. These new findings expand the spectrum of non-coding regulatory mechanisms underpinning blind-side hypermelanosis, which facilitates the further exploration of molecular regulatory mechanisms of malpigmentation in flatfish.

Role of Amine Neurotransmitters and Their Receptors in Skin Pigmentation: Therapeutic Implication

Skin pigmentation can occur due to increased melanin, including melanocyte proliferation, melanin biosynthesis, or melanocyte migration. There are many factors that influence the melanin production process, but the role of neurotransmitters in this process is still unclear. We found that histamine and serotonin influence the different stages of melanogenesis and melanogenesis, which increase melanogenesis. Since then, several related papers have been published, and from these papers, it has been recognised that the role of neurotransmitters in skin-pigment-related diseases needs to be summarised. By introducing the role of neurotransmitters in the regulation of various pigment disorders, including vitiligo and melasma, through this review, many researchers can be expected to try to apply neurotransmitter-related agonists and antagonists as treatments for skin pigment disorders.

Identification of L-Cysteinamide as a Potent Inhibitor of Tyrosinase-Mediated Dopachrome Formation and Eumelanin Synthesis

The purpose of this study is to identify amino acid derivatives with potent anti-eumelanogenic activity. First, we compared the effects of twenty different amidated amino acids on tyrosinase (TYR)-mediated dopachrome formation in vitro and melanin content in dark-pigmented human melanoma MNT-1 cells. The results showed that only L-cysteinamide inhibited TYR-mediated dopachrome formation in vitro and reduced the melanin content of cells. Next, the antimelanogenic effect of L-cysteinamide was compared to those of other thiol compounds (L-cysteine, N-acetyl L-cysteine, glutathione, L-cysteine ethyl ester, N-acetyl L-cysteinamide, and cysteamine) and positive controls with known antimelanogenic effects (kojic acid and β-arbutin). The results showed the unique properties of L-cysteinamide, which effectively reduces melanin content without causing cytotoxicity. L-Cysteinamide did not affect the mRNA and protein levels of TYR, tyrosinase-related protein 1, and dopachrome tautomerase in MNT-1 cells. L-Cysteinamide exhibited similar properties in normal human epidermal melanocytes (HEMs). Experiments using mushroom TYR suggest that L-cysteinamide at certain concentrations can inhibit eumelanin synthesis through a dual mechanism by inhibiting TYR-catalyzed dopaquinone synthesis and by diverting the synthesized dopaquinone to the formation of DOPA-cysteinamide conjugates rather than dopachrome. Finally, L-cysteinamide was shown to increase pheomelanin content while decreasing eumelanin and total melanin contents in MNT-1 cells. This study suggests that L-cysteinamide has an optimal structure that can effectively and safely inhibit eumelanin synthesis in MNT-1 cells and HEMs, and will be useful in controlling skin hyperpigmentation.

Flavonoid Glycosides from Ziziphus jujuba var. inermis (Bunge) Rehder Seeds Inhibit α-Melanocyte-Stimulating Hormone-Mediated Melanogenesis

Ziziphus jujuba extracts possess a broad spectrum of biological activities, such as antioxidant and anticancer activities in melanoma cancers. Nevertheless, the compounds contain high antioxidant capacities and anticancer activities in melanoma cells, shown to be effective in hyperpigmentation disorders, but whether flavonoid glycosides from Z. jujuba regulate anti-melanogenesis remains unclear. In this study, we evaluated the anti-melanogenic activity of five flavonoid glycosides from Z. jujuba var. inermis (Bunge) Rehder seeds, including jujuboside A (JUA), jujuboside B (JUB), epiceanothic acid (EPA), betulin (BTL), and 6’’’-feruloylspinosin (FRS), in B16F10 melanoma cells and zebrafish larvae. According to our results, JUB, EPA, and FRS potently inhibited α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis and prevented hyperpigmentation in zebrafish larvae. In particular, under α-MSH-stimulated conditions, FRS most significantly inhibited α-MSH-induced intracellular and extracellular melanin content in B16F10 melanoma cells. Additionally, JUB, EPS, and FRS remarkably downregulated melanogenesis in α-MSH-treated zebrafish larvae, with no significant change in heart rate. Neither JUA nor BTA were effective in downregulating melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells and zebrafish larvae. Furthermore, JUB, EPA, and FRS directly inhibited in vitro mushroom tyrosinase enzyme activity. JUB, EPA, and FRS also downregulated cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) levels and the phosphorylation of cAMP-response element-binding protein (CREB), and subsequent microphthalmia transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase expression. In conclusion, this study demonstrated that JUB, EPA, and FRS isolated from Z. jujuba var. inermis (Bunge) Rehder seeds exhibit potent anti-melanogenic properties by inhibition of the cAMP-CERB-MITF axis and consequent tyrosinase activity.

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

Nowadays, much attention is paid to issues such as ecology and sustainability. Many consumers choose “green cosmetics”, which are environmentally friendly creams, makeup, and beauty products, hoping that they are not harmful to health and reduce pollution. Moreover, the repeated mini-lock downs during the COVID-19 pandemic have fueled the awareness that body beauty is linked to well-being, both external and internal. As a result, consumer preferences for makeup have declined, while those for skincare products have increased. Nutricosmetics, which combines the benefits derived from food supplementation with the advantages of cosmetic treatments to improve the beauty of our body, respond to the new market demands. Food chemistry and cosmetic chemistry come together to promote both inside and outside well-being. A nutricosmetic optimizes the intake of nutritional microelements to meet the needs of the skin and skin appendages, improving their conditions and delaying aging, thus helping to protect the skin from the aging action of environmental factors. Numerous studies in the literature show a significant correlation between the adequate intake of these supplements, improved skin quality (both aesthetic and histological), and the acceleration of wound-healing. This review revised the main foods and bioactive molecules used in nutricosmetic formulations, their cosmetic effects, and the analytical techniques that allow the dosage of the active ingredients in the food.

Diversified Stimuli-Induced Inflammatory Pathways Cause Skin Pigmentation

The production of melanin pigments by melanocytes and their quantity, quality, and distribution play a decisive role in determining human skin, eye, and hair color, and protect the skin from adverse effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and oxidative stress from various environmental pollutants. Melanocytes reside in the basal layer of the interfollicular epidermis and are compensated by melanocyte stem cells in the follicular bulge area. Various stimuli such as eczema, microbial infection, ultraviolet light exposure, mechanical injury, and aging provoke skin inflammation. These acute or chronic inflammatory responses cause inflammatory cytokine production from epidermal keratinocytes as well as dermal fibroblasts and other cells, which in turn stimulate melanocytes, often resulting in skin pigmentation. It is confirmed by some recent studies that several interleukins (ILs) and other inflammatory mediators modulate the proliferation and differentiation of human epidermal melanocytes and also promote or inhibit expression of melanogenesis-related gene expression directly or indirectly, thereby participating in regulation of skin pigmentation. Understanding of mechanisms of skin pigmentation due to inflammation helps to elucidate the relationship between inflammation and skin pigmentation regulation and can guide development of new therapeutic pathways for treating pigmented dermatosis. This review covers the mechanistic aspects of skin pigmentation caused by inflammation.

A high-throughput screening platform for pigment regulating agents using pluripotent stem cell-derived melanocytes

In this study, we describe a simple and straightforward assay using induced pluripotent stem cell-derived melanocytes and high-throughput flow cytometry, to identify the effect induced by pigment regulating agents on melanin content. The assay is based on the correlation between forward light-scatter characteristics and melanin content, with pigmented cells displaying high light absorption/low forward light scatter, while the opposite is true for lowly pigmented melanocytes, as a result of genetic background or chemical treatments. Orthogonal validation is then performed by regular melanin quantification. Such approach was validated using a set of 80 small molecules and yielded a confirmed hit. The assay described in this study may prove a useful tool to identify modulators of melanogenesis in human melanocytes.

Up- or Downregulation of Melanin Synthesis Using Amino Acids, Peptides, and Their Analogs

Harmonious synthesis and distribution of melanin in the skin contribute to the expression of beauty and the maintenance of health. When skin pigmentary disorders occur because of internal or external factors or, when there is a need to artificially increase or reduce the pigmentation level of the skin for aesthetic or therapeutic purposes, various pharmacological therapies are applied but the results are not always satisfactory. Studies have been conducted to improve the efficacy and safety of these treatment strategies. In this review, we present the latest studies regarding peptides and related compounds that may be useful in artificially increasing or reducing skin melanin levels. Certain analogs of α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH) and oligopeptides with the sequences derived from the hormone were shown to promote melanin synthesis in cells and in vivo models. Various amino acids, peptides, their analogs, and their hybrid compounds with other chemical moieties were shown to inhibit tyrosinase (TYR) catalytic activity or downregulate TYR gene expression. Certain peptides were shown to inhibit melanosome biogenesis or induce autophagy, leading to decreased pigmentation. In vivo and clinical evidence are available for some compounds, including [Nle⁴-_D-Phe⁷]-α-MSH, glutathione disulfide, and glycinamide hydrochloride. For many other compounds, additional studies are required to verify their efficacy and safety in vivo and in clinical trials. The accumulating information regarding pro- and antimelanogenic activity of peptides and related compounds will lead to the development of novel drugs for the treatment of skin pigmentary disorders.

The First Human Clinical Trial on the Skin Depigmentation Efficacy of Glycinamide Hydrochloride

A previous study identified certain low molecular anti-melanogenic peptides that share a common sequence with α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH) and end with a glycinamide moiety. Glycinamide itself also showed anti-melanogenic activity in cell-based assays, but neither glycine nor acetyl glycinamide were active, which indicated a special structure and activity relationship. The aim of this study was to examine the skin depigmentation efficacy of glycinamide hydrochloride in human subjects. The primary skin irritation potential of glycinamide hydrochloride was evaluated by patch testing in 30 human subjects. The skin depigmentation efficacy of glycinamide hydrochloride was evaluated in a double-blinded clinical test in 21 human subjects. The test product and a control product were applied to designated sites on the right or left side of the face twice daily for eight weeks. Skin color parameters, i.e., the melanin index, the L* value (representing skin lightness), a* value (redness), and b* value (yellowness) were measured using instruments. The individual topology angle (ITA^o, representing skin color) was calculated from L* and b values. The degree of skin pigmentation was visually assessed by two testers. The primary skin irritation test showed that a solution containing glycinamide hydrochloride up to 10% did not induce any adverse skin responses. In the efficacy test, the test product significantly reduced the melanin index, and increased L* value and ITA^o after two weeks of application relative to the baseline value at the start of the test. It also significantly lowered the degree of pigmentation after 6 weeks of application, relative to the baseline value. Differences in the melanin index, L* value, ITA^o and the degree of pigmentation between the test and control groups became statistically significant after six weeks or eight weeks of application. No signs of skin irritation were observed during the efficacy test. The present study suggests that glycinamide hydrochloride has great potential to be used in the control of skin hyperpigmentation.

Emerging Strategies to Protect the Skin from Ultraviolet Rays Using Plant-Derived Materials

Sunlight contains a significant amount of ultraviolet (UV) ray, which leads to various effects on homeostasis in the body. Defense strategies to protect from UV rays have been extensively studied, as sunburn, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis are caused by excessive UV exposure. The primary lines of defense against UV damage are melanin and trans-urocanic acid, which are distributed in the stratum corneum. UV rays that pass beyond these lines of defense can lead to oxidative damage. However, cells detect changes due to UV rays as early as possible and initiate cell signaling processes to prevent the occurrence of damage and repair the already occurred damage. Cosmetic and dermatology experts recommend using a sunscreen product to prevent UV-induced damage. A variety of strategies using antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents have also been developed to complement the skin's defenses against UV rays. Researchers have examined the use of plant-derived materials to alleviate the occurrence of skin aging, diseases, and cancer caused by UV rays. Furthermore, studies are also underway to determine how to promote melanin production to protect from UV-induced skin damage. This review provides discussion of the damage that occurs in the skin due to UV light and describes potential defense strategies using plant-derived materials. This review aims to assist researchers in understanding the current research in this area and to potentially plan future studies.

Screening of an Epigenetic Drug Library Identifies 4-((hydroxyamino)carbonyl)-N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-Phenyl-Benzeneacetamide that Reduces Melanin Synthesis by Inhibiting Tyrosinase Activity Independently of Epigenetic Mechanisms

The aim of this study was to identify novel antimelanogenic drugs from an epigenetic screening library containing various modulators targeting DNA methyltransferases, histone deacetylases, and other related enzymes/proteins. Of 141 drugs tested, K8 (4-((hydroxyamino)carbonyl)-N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-phenyl-benzeneacetamide; HPOB) was found to effectively inhibit the α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin synthesis in B16-F10 murine melanoma cells without accompanying cytotoxicity. Additional experiments showed that K8 did not significantly reduce the mRNA and protein level of tyrosinase (TYR) or microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in cells, but it potently inhibited the catalytic activity TYR in vitro (IC₅₀, 1.1-1.5 µM) as compared to β-arbutin (IC₅₀, 500-700 µM) or kojic acid (IC₅₀, 63 µM). K8 showed copper chelating activity similar to kojic acid. Therefore, these data suggest that K8 inhibits cellular melanin synthesis not by downregulation of TYR protein expression through an epigenetic mechanism, but by direct inhibition of TYR catalytic activity through copper chelation. Metal chelating activity of K8 is not surprising because it is known to inhibit histone deacetylase (HDAC) 6 through zinc chelation. This study identified K8 as a potent inhibitor of cellular melanin synthesis, which may be useful for the treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders.

Membrane transport proteins in melanosomes: Regulation of ions for pigmentation

Melanosomes are unique organelles in melanocytes that produce melanin, the pigment for skin, hair, and eye color. Tyrosinase is the essential and rate-limiting enzyme for melanin production, that strictly requires neutral pH for activity. pH maintenance is a result of the combinational function of multiple ion transport proteins. Thus, ion homeostasis in melanosomes is crucial for melanin synthesis. Defect of the ion transport system causes various pigmentation phenotypes, from mild effect to severe disorders such as albinism. In this review, we summarize the up-to-date knowledge of the ion transport system, such as transport function, structure, and the physiological roles and mechanisms of the ion transport proteins in melanosomes. In addition, we propose a model of melanosomal ion transport system-how the functional coupling of multiple transport proteins modulates and maintains ion homeostasis. We discuss melanin synthesis in terms of the ion transport system.

Sjogren-Larsson syndrome associated hypermelanosis

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES

Sjogren - Larsson syndrome (SLS) is a rare autosomal recessive disease of the mutation ALDH3A2 that identifies a part of fatty acids for fatty aldehyde dehydrogenase: NAD-oxidoreductase enzyme complex. This study aimed to access variant ALDH3A2 gene coded for FALDH and products regulating pathogenic melanogenesis owing to increased oxidative stress and reactive oxygen species resulting in DNA harm in SLS. By turning them into fatty acids, FALDH avoids the accumulation of toxic fatty aldehydes. The mutation results in the accumulation of aldehyde-modified lipids or fatty alcohols that may interfere with skin and brain function.

METHODS

In Nov 2018, we performed a literature search in PubMed for clinical studies, clinical trials, case reports, controlled trials, randomized controlled trials, and systemic reviews. The search terms we used were "SJOGREN-LARSSON SYNDROME" AND "HYPERMELANNOSIS" OR "FALDH" (from 1985). The search resulted in 1,289 articles, out of these 95 articles met our inclusion exclusion criteria. Our inclusion criteria included relevant original articles relevant, critical systemic reviews, and crucial referenced articles, ex-clusion criteria included duplicates and articles not published in English language.

RESULTS

Toxicity of long-chain aldehydes to FALDH-deficient cells owing to accumulation under the profound epidermis layer improves oxidative stress in the cell resulting in keratinocyte hyperproliferation.

CONCLUSION

While it continues to be determined whether accumulated fatty alcohol and fatty aldehydes obtained from ether glycerolipids and sphingolipids improve the susceptibility of melanocytes and their element accountable for skin hyperpigmentation to biological colour.

Human Skin Lightening Efficacy of Resveratrol and Its Analogs: From in Vitro Studies to Cosmetic Applications

Antioxidants are deemed useful in controlling oxidative stress associated with extrinsic skin aging and pigmentation disorders. Resveratrol is a polyphenol compound found in many edible plants such as Vitis vinifera, and its inhibitory effects on the catalytic activity, gene expression, and posttranslational modifications of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the melanin biosynthetic pathway, provide a mechanistic basis for its antimelanogenic effects seen in melanocytic cells, three-dimensionally reconstituted skin models, and in vivo animal models. As a potent antioxidant and a modulator of nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), and sirtuin 1, resveratrol can also regulate multiple signaling pathways associated with inflammation and premature aging. Recent clinical studies have supported the efficacy of resveratrol and its analogs, such as resveratryl triacetate (RTA) and resveratryl triglycolate (RTG), in human skin lightening and antiaging. These findings suggest that resveratrol and its analogs are potentially useful as skin lightening and antiaging agents in cosmetics.

p-Coumaric Acid as An Active Ingredient in Cosmetics: A Review Focusing on its Antimelanogenic Effects

Controlling unwanted hyperpigmentation is a major challenge in dermatology and cosmetology, and safe and efficacious antimelanogenic agents are deemed useful for this purpose. p-Coumaric acid is a natural metabolite contained in many edible plants, and its antioxidant activities in reducing oxidative stress and inflammatory reactions have been demonstrated in various experimental models. p-Coumaric acid has the optimal structure to be a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase that catalyzes key reactions in the melanin biosynthetic pathway. Experimental evidence supports this notion as it was found to be a more potent inhibitor of tyrosinase, especially toward human enzymes, than other well-known tyrosinase inhibitors such as arbutin and kojic acid. p-Coumaric acid inhibited melanin synthesis in murine melanoma cells, human epidermal melanocytes, and reconstituted three-dimensional human skin models. Ex-vivo skin permeation experiments and in-vivo efficacy tests for p-coumaric acid confirmed its efficient transdermal delivery and functional efficacy in reducing erythema development and skin pigmentation due to ultraviolet radiation exposure. Human studies further supported its effectiveness in hypopigmentation and depigmentation. These findings suggest that p-coumaric acid has good potential to be used as a skin-lightening active ingredient in cosmetics. Future studies are needed to extensively examine its safety and efficacy and to develop an optimized cosmetic formulation for the best performance in skin lightening.

Congenital Sensorineural Hearing Loss and Inborn Pigmentary Disorders: First Report of Multilocus Syndrome in Piebaldism

Congenital sensorineural hearing loss may occur in association with inborn pigmentary defects of the iris, hair, and skin. These conditions, named auditory-pigmentary disorders (APDs), represent extremely heterogeneous hereditary diseases, including Waardenburg syndromes, oculocutaneous albinism, Tietz syndrome, and piebaldism. APDs are part of the neurocristopathies, a group of congenital multisystem disorders caused by an altered development of the neural crest cells, multipotent progenitors of a wide variety of different lineages, including those differentiating into peripheral nervous system glial cells and melanocytes. We report on clinical and genetic findings of two monozygotic twins from a large Albanian family who showed a complex phenotype featured by sensorineural congenital deafness, severe neuropsychiatric impairment, and inborn pigmentary defects of hair and skin. The genetic analyzes identified, in both probands, an unreported co-occurrence of a new heterozygous germline pathogenic variant (c.2484 + 5G > T splicing mutation) in the KIT gene, consistent with the diagnosis of piebaldism, and a heterozygous deletion at chromosome 15q13.3, responsible for the neuropsychiatric impairment. This case represents the first worldwide report of dual locus inherited syndrome in piebald patients affected by a complex auditory-pigmentary multisystem phenotype. Here we also synthesize the clinical and genetic findings of all known neurocristopathies characterized by a hypopigmentary congenital disorder.

Luteolin 7-Sulfate Attenuates Melanin Synthesis through Inhibition of CREB- and MITF-Mediated Tyrosinase Expression

Antioxidants with antimelanogenic activity are potentially useful for the attenuation of skin hyperpigmentation disorders. In a previous study, luteolin 7-sulfate isolated from Phyllospadix iwatensis Makino, a marine plant, was shown to inhibit cellular melanin synthesis. The aim of the present study was to examine its action mechanism, focusing on the regulation of tyrosinase (TYR) expression in cells. Cell-based assay was undertaken using murine melanoma B16-F10 cells and primary human epidermal melanocytes (HEMs). Luteolin 7-sulfate showed lower toxicity compared to luteolin in B16-F10 cells. At the non-toxic concentration ranges, luteolin 7-sulfate attenuated melanin synthesis, stimulated by α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone or forskolin. Luteolin 7-sulfate attenuated forskolin-induced microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and TYR expressions at the mRNA and protein levels in B16-F10 cells. It also attenuated the phosphorylation of cAMP-responsive element binding protein (CREB) stimulated by forskolin. Luteolin 7-sulfate also attenuated melanin synthesis in primary HEMs. This study demonstrates that luteolin 7-sulfate attenuates TYR gene expression through the intervention of a CREB- and MITF-mediated signaling pathway, leading to the decreased melanin synthesis.

Identification of small peptides and glycinamide that inhibit melanin synthesis using a positional scanning synthetic peptide combinatorial library

BACKGROUND

Antimelanogenic peptides are potentially useful to treat hyperpigmentation, but many peptides have limited application because of high cost and/or low activity.

OBJECTIVES

To identify small and potent peptide inhibitors of cellular melanin synthesis that are useful for cosmetic and medical applications.

METHODS

A positional scanning synthetic tetrapeptide combinatorial library was used for screening of potentially active peptides. Antimelanogenic activities of the peptide pools and individual peptides were evaluated in B16-F10 melanoma cells and human epidermal melanocytes treated with alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH).

RESULTS

Predicted active tetrapeptide sequences were R-(F/L)-(C/W)-(G/R)-NH₂ . Of the individual tetrapeptides tested, D3 (RFWG-NH₂ ) and D5 (RLWG-NH₂ ) exhibited high antimelanogenic activities. Tetrapeptide D9 (FRWG-NH₂ ) with a sequence identical to that of a portion of α-MSH also showed antimelanogenic activity. Of the tripeptides tested, E5 (FWG-NH₂ ), E6 (LWG-NH₂ ) and E7 (RWG-NH₂ ) were relatively more active. Dipeptide F1 (WG-NH₂ ) and monopeptide G1 (G-NH₂ , glycinamide) retained activity, but G2 (Ac-G-NH₂ ) and G3 (glycine) did not. The antimelanogenic activities of peptides D3, E5, F1 and G1 were verified in α-MSH-stimulated human epidermal melanocytes. Commercially available G-NH₂ ·HCl suppressed the phosphorylation levels of cAMP-responsive element binding protein, protein levels of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor and tyrosinase, l-tyrosine hydroxylase activity of tyrosinase, and the melanin levels in stimulated cells.

CONCLUSIONS

Small peptides, including glycinamide and tryptophanyl glycinamide, are potent antimelanogenic agents with potential value for the treatment of skin hyperpigmentation.

Mammalian pigmentation is regulated by a distinct cAMP-dependent mechanism that controls melanosome pH

The production of melanin increases skin pigmentation and reduces the risk of skin cancer. Melanin production depends on the pH of melanosomes, which are more acidic in lighter-skinned than in darker-skinned people. We showed that inhibition of soluble adenylyl cyclase (sAC) controlled pigmentation by increasing the pH of melanosomes both in cells and in vivo. Distinct from the canonical melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R)-dependent cAMP pathway that controls pigmentation by altering gene expression, we found that inhibition of sAC increased pigmentation by increasing the activity of tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis, which is more active at basic pH. We demonstrated that the effect of sAC activity on pH and melanin production in human melanocytes depended on the skin color of the donor. Last, we identified sAC inhibitors as a new class of drugs that increase melanosome pH and pigmentation in vivo, suggesting that pharmacologic inhibition of this pathway may affect skin cancer risk or pigmentation conditions.

[Undesirable pigmentation]

BACKGROUND

Homogenous pigmentation can be induced by α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) homologues. Cosmetically inacceptable pigmentation is mostly located on the face.

OBJECTIVES

Although afamelatonide is a prescription drug for the orphan disease erthropoetic protoporphyria, structurally related α-MSH derivatives are available via the internet. Preventive and therapeutical options are necessary for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, and lentigines.

METHODS

Case reports address activation of dysplastic naevi by melanotan I. Wood's lamp is of some use in analyzing the level of hyperpigmentation. However, no guidelines have been established; thus, a summary of current studies is presented.

RESULTS

Melanotan I leads to the activation of dysplastic nevi. The gold standard for hyperpigmentation is triple therapy with hydrochinon, tretinoin, and steroids, which can cause irritation and lead to ochronosis in some individuals. Tyrosinase inhibitors, substances that increase the cell turnover, and plant derivatives are less efficient but more tolerable.

CONCLUSIONS

Melanotan I and bleaching creams, which may possibly contain mercury, are dangerous. Hyperpigmentation is best treated using a combination therapy that inhibits melanocyte activity and melanin synthesis, removes melanin, destroys melanin granules, and includes UV protection. Especially in Fitzpatrick skin types IV-VI, cryotherapy and laser are not the first line treatment options due to renewed posttreatment hyperpigmentation.

A Novel Locus for Ectodermal Dysplasia of Hair, Nail and Skin Pigmentation Anomalies Maps to Chromosome 18p11.32-p11.31

Ectodermal dysplasias (EDs) are a large heterogeneous group of inherited disorders exhibiting abnormalities in ectodermally derived appendages such as hair, nails, teeth and sweat glands. EDs associated with reticulated pigmentation phenotype are rare entities for which the genetic basis and pathophysiology are not well characterized. The present study describes a five generation consanguineous Pakistani family segregating an autosomal recessive form of a novel type of ectodermal dysplasia. The affected members present with sparse and woolly hair, severe nail dystrophy and reticulate skin pigmentation. After exclusion of known gene loci related with other skin disorders, genome-wide linkage analysis was performed using Illumina HumanOmniExpress beadchip SNP arrays. We linked this form of ED to human chromosome 18p11.32-p11.31 flanked by the SNPs rs9284390 (0.113Mb) and rs4797100 (3.14 Mb). A maximum two-point LOD score of 3.3 was obtained with several markers along the disease interval. The linkage interval of 3.03 Mb encompassed seventeen functional genes. However, sequence analysis of all these genes did not discover any potentially disease causing-variants. The identification of this novel locus provides additional information regarding the mapping of a rare form of ED. Further research, such as the use of whole-genome sequencing, would be expected to reveal any pathogenic mutation within the disease locus.

Pigmentary lines of the newborn: a case report and review of the literature

Various diseases of pigmentation in the newborn are known, such as congenital or acquired linear hyperpigmentation. Pigmentary lines of the newborn are counted among the transient benign cutaneous lesions in the newborn and appear to be rather rare. This paper reports on a newborn with pigmentary lines in the creases of the abdomen. The 5-month-old boy is the first case observed so far in the University Hospital of Basel in Switzerland. He was born at term and healthy, without any congenital abnormalities. The horizontally arranged linear hyperpigmentation appeared shortly after birth and faded spontaneously after 5 months. Pigmentary lines of the newborn are rare and the non-hormonal cause may be flexion in utero or other mechanically induced stimulation. So far, only eight similar cases have been reported, which are listed in a table.

Mechanisms regulating melanogenesis

Skin pigmentation is an important human phenotypic trait whose regulation, in spite of recent advances, has not yet been fully understood. The pigment melanin is produced in melanosomes by melanocytes in a complex process called melanogenesis. The melanocyte interacts with endocrine, immune, inflammatory and central nervous systems, and its activity is also regulated by extrinsic factors such as ultraviolet radiation and drugs. We have carried out a review of the current understanding of intrinsic and extrinsic factors regulating skin pigmentation, the melanogenesis stages and related gene defects. We focused on melanocyte-keratinocyte interaction, activation of melanocortin type 1 receptor (MC1-R) by peptides (melanocyte-stimulating hormone and adrenocorticotropic hormone) resulting from proopiomelanocortin (POMC) cleavage, and mechanisms of ultraviolet-induced skin pigmentation. The identification and comprehension of the melanogenesis mechanism facilitate the understanding of the pathogenesis of pigmentation disorders and the development of potential therapeutic options.

Synthesis and biological evaluation of unsymmetrical curcumin analogues as tyrosinase inhibitors

Synthesis and biological evaluation of unsymmetrical curcumin analogues (UCAs) have been achieved. Tyrosinase inhibitory activities were found for most of the prepared synthetic UCAs. Among them, compounds containing 4-hydroxyl-substituted phenolic rings with C-2/C-4- or C-3/C-4-dihydroxyl-substituted diphenolic rings were more active (IC₅₀ = 1.74~16.74 μM) than 4-butylresorcinol and kojic acid, which suggested that the 4-hydroxyl groups in UCAs play a crucial role in tyrosinase inhibitory activities. The inhibition kinetics analyzed by Lineweaver-Burk plots revealed compounds 3c and 3i containing catecholic rings were mixed-competitive inhibitors, whereas compounds 3d and 3j containing resorcinolic rings were competitive inhibitors. The preliminary evaluation results of acute toxicity showed the representative 3d and 3j were non-toxic in mice dosed at 1,200 mg/kg. This research suggests that, with the advantage of being readily prepared small molecules, polyphenolic UCAs have the potential to develop into pharmacological inhibitors of tyrosinase.

Azastilbene analogs as tyrosinase inhibitors: new molecules with depigmenting potential

This research has been an effort to develop synthetic resveratrol analogs in order to improve the depigmenting potential of natural resveratrol. Six resveratrol analogs were synthesized and tested for tyrosinase inhibitory activity in vitro, by qualitative and quantitative steps. The results showed the analog C as being the most powerful tyrosinase inhibitor (IA50=65.67±0.60 μg/mL), followed by the analogs B, E, F, A, and D, respectively. The analog C presented a tyrosinase inhibition potential better than natural resveratrol (P<0.001). The best depigmenting activity was provided by the presence of hydroxyl in the orthoposition on the second phenolic ring.

The etiology and molecular genetics of human pigmentation disorders

Pigmentation, defined as the placement of pigment in skin, hair, and eyes for coloration, is distinctive because the location, amount, and type of pigmentation provides a visual manifestation of genetic heterogeneity in pathways regulating the pigment-producing cells, melanocytes. The scope of this genetic heterogeneity in humans ranges from normal to pathological pigmentation phenotypes. Clinically, normal human pigmentation encompasses a variety of skin and hair color as well as punctate pigmentation such as melanocytic nevi (moles) or ephelides (freckles), while abnormal human pigmentation exhibits markedly reduced or increased pigment levels, known as hypopigmentation and hyperpigmentation, respectively. Elucidation of the molecular genetics underlying pigmentation has revealed genes important for melanocyte development and function. Furthermore, many pigmentation disorders show additional defects in cells other than melanocytes, and identification of the genetic insults in these disorders has revealed pleiotropic genes, where a single gene is required for various functions in different cell types. Thus, unravelling the genetics of easily visualized pigmentation disorders has identified molecular similarities between melanocytes and less visible cell types/tissues, arising from a common developmental origin and/or shared genetic regulatory pathways. Herein we discuss notable human pigmentation disorders and their associated genetic alterations, focusing on the fact that the developmental genetics of pigmentation abnormalities are instructive for understanding normal pathways governing development and function of melanocytes.

The long history of iron in the Universe and in health and disease

BACKGROUND

Not long after the Big Bang, iron began to play a central role in the Universe and soon became mired in the tangle of biochemistry that is the prima essentia of life. Since life's addiction to iron transcends the oxygenation of the Earth's atmosphere, living things must be protected from the potentially dangerous mix of iron and oxygen. The human being possesses grams of this potentially toxic transition metal, which is shuttling through his oxygen-rich humor. Since long before the birth of modern medicine, the blood-vibrant red from a massive abundance of hemoglobin iron-has been a focus for health experts.

SCOPE OF REVIEW

We describe the current understanding of iron metabolism, highlight the many important discoveries that accreted this knowledge, and describe the perils of dysfunctional iron handling.

GENERAL SIGNIFICANCE

Isaac Newton famously penned, "If I have seen further than others, it is by standing upon the shoulders of giants". We hope that this review will inspire future scientists to develop intellectual pursuits by understanding the research and ideas from many remarkable thinkers of the past.

MAJOR CONCLUSIONS

The history of iron research is a long, rich story with early beginnings, and is far from being finished. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled Transferrins: Molecular mechanisms of iron transport and disorders.