Investigation of the Sunscreen Octocrylene’s Interaction with Amino Acid Analogs in the Presence of UV Radiation

Environmental implications and nanotechnological advances in octocrylene-enriched sunscreen formulations: A comprehensive review

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin aging, cancer, and other detrimental health effects. Sunscreens containing FDA-approved UV filters, like avobenzone, offer protection but suffer from photodegradation and potential phototoxicity. Encapsulation, antioxidants, and photostabilizers are strategies employed to combat these drawbacks. Octocrylene, an organic UV filter, utilizes nanotechnology to enhance sun protection factor (SPF). This review examines recent literature on octocrylene-enriched sunscreens, exploring the interplay between environmental impact, nanotechnological advancements, and clinical trial insights. A critical focus is placed on the environmental consequences of sunscreen use, particularly the potential hazards UV filters pose to marine ecosystems. Research in the Mediterranean Sea suggests bacterial sensitivity to these filters, raising concerns about their integration into the food chain. This review aims to guide researchers in developing effective strategies for photostabilization of UV filters. By combining encapsulation, photostabilizers, and antioxidants, researchers can potentially reduce phototoxic effects and contribute to developing more environmentally friendly sunscreens.

Synthesis and characterisation of novel composite sunscreens containing both avobenzone and octocrylene motifs

Avobenzone and octocrylene are popular sunscreen active ingredients. Experiments that probe the stability of avobenzone in binary mixtures with octocrylene are presented, together with the synthesis of a class of novel composite sunscreens that were designed by covalently linking avobenzone and octocrylene groups. Spectroscopy, both steady-state and time-resolved, of the fused molecules was performed to investigate the stability of the new molecules and their potential function as ultraviolet filters. Computational results are detailed for truncated versions of a subset of the molecules to reveal the energy states underlying the absorption processes of this new class of sunscreen. The results indicate that the combination of elements of the two sunscreen molecules into one molecule creates a derivative with good stability to UV light in ethanol and in which the main degradation pathway of the avobenzone component in acetonitrile is reduced. Derivatives containing p-chloro substituents are particularly stable to UV light.

Mechanistic photophysics and photochemistry of unnatural bases and sunscreen molecules: insights from electronic structure calculations

Photophysics and photochemistry are basic subjects in the study of light-matter interactions and are ubiquitous in diverse fields such as biology, energy, materials, and environment. A full understanding of mechanistic photophysics and photochemistry underpins many recent advances and applications. This contribution first provides a short discussion on the theoretical calculation methods we have used in relevant studies, then we introduce our latest progress on the mechanistic photophysics and photochemistry of two classes of molecular systems, namely unnatural bases and sunscreens. For unnatural bases, we disclose the intrinsic driving forces for the ultrafast population to reactive triplet states, impacts of the position and degree of chalcogen substitutions, and the effects of complex environments. For sunscreen molecules, we reveal the photoprotection mechanisms that dissipate excess photon energy to the surroundings by ultrafast internal conversion to the ground state. Finally, relevant theoretical challenges and outlooks are discussed.

Contact allergy to fragrance mix I and its components in individuals with photocontact allergy to ketoprofen

BACKGROUND

Contact allergy to fragrance mix I (FM I) is over-represented in patients photoallergic to ketoprofen. The prevalence of contact allergy to two components of FM I, cinnamal and cinnamyl alcohol, in ketoprofen-photoallergic patients is higher than in dermatitis patients.

OBJECTIVE

To explore the prevalence of contact allergy to FM I and its individual components in patients with photocontact allergy to ketoprofen, and to compare with a dermatitis and the general population.

METHODS

Data on patch and photopatch tests performed between 2009-2018 were collected. Ketoprofen-photoallergic patients were compared with dermatitis patients and published data on the general population regarding the prevalence and the distribution of contact allergy to FM I and its components.

RESULTS

A higher prevalence of contact allergy to cinnamyl alcohol compared with cinnamal (23.3% vs 10.0%), and eugenol compared with isoeugenol (23.3% vs 6.7%), was observed in ketoprofen-photoallergic patients, while the relationship was the opposite in the dermatitis group (0.7% vs 1.05%; 0.4% vs 0.9%). The overall prevalence of contact allergy to several components of FM I was significantly higher in ketoprofen-photoallergic patients.

CONCLUSIONS

Contact allergy to FM I and many of its components is over-represented in patients photoallergic to ketoprofen compared with dermatitis patients and the general population.

Sunscreens and their usefulness: have we made any progress in the last two decades?

Sunscreens have now been around for decades to mitigate the Sun's damaging ultraviolet (UV) radiation which, although essential for the existence of life, is a recognized prime carcinogen. Accordingly, have suncreams achieved their intended purposes towards protection against sunburns, skin photo-ageing and the like? Most importantly, however, have they provided the expected protection against skin cancers that current sunscreen products claim to do? In the last two decades, there have been tens, if not hundreds of studies on sunscreens with respect to skin protection against UVB (280‒320 nm)-traditionally sunscreens with rather low sun protection factors (SPF) were intended to protect against this type of radiation-and UVA (320‒400 nm) radiation; a distinction between SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) is made. Many of the studies of the last two decades have focused on protection against the more skin-penetrating UVA radiation. This non-exhaustive article reviews some of the important facets of what is currently known about sunscreens with regard (i) to the physical UV filters titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) and the mostly photo-unstable chemical UVB/UVA filters (e.g., octinoxate (OMC) and avobenzone (AVO), among others), (ii) to novel chemical sunscreen agents, (iii) to means that minimize the breakdown of chemical filters and improve their stability when exposed to UV sunlight, (iv) to SPF factors, and (v) to a short discussion on non-melanoma skin cancers and melanoma. Importantly, throughout the article we allude to the safety aspects of sunscreens and at the end ask the question: do active ingredients in sunscreen products pose a risk to human health, and what else can be done to enhance protection? Significant loss of skin protection from two well-known commercial suncreams when exposed to simulated UV sunlight. Cream I: titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, avobenzone, and octinoxate; Cream II: octyl salicylate, oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate.

Nitro-Substituted Benzaldehydes in the Generation of Azomethine Ylides and Retro-1,3-Dipolar Cycloadditions

1,3-Dipolar cycloaddition of 2- and 3-nitrobenzaldehydes with 2-aminomethylpyridine and ethyl (2E)-2-cyano-3-(4-nitrophenyl)prop-2-enoate yielded endo-cycloadducts as the sole products under various reaction conditions. Fortuitously, 4-nitrobenzaldehyde behaved differently in three- and four-component cascades to produce a mixture of endo- and exo'-cycloadducts. This reaction is solvent- and temperature-dependent, and consequently, both the endo- and exo'-cycloadducts were synthesized in an excellent regio-, stereo-, and chemoselective fashion. Retro-1,3-dipolar cycloadditions of the endo-cycloadducts were conducted under mild reaction conditions, and the generated syn-dipoles were stereomutated into anti-dipoles which recycloadded with the dipolarophiles to provide the exo'-cycloadducts. Mechanistic studies were carried out to support the proposed mechanisms. Unprecedentedly, particular arylidene scaffolds participated as aldehyde or activated methylene precursors. Density functional theory calculations were performed to shed light on the importance of AcOH in the generation and isomerization of dipoles and to explain the high selectivity and the possibility of retro-cycloaddition.

A New Approach to UV Protection by Direct Surface Functionalization of TiO2 with the Antioxidant Polyphenol Dihydroxyphenyl Benzimidazole Carboxylic Acid

Skin cancer is the most common malignant cancer with an incidence of 1 million cases/year. It is well known that exposure to UV radiation from sunlight leads the most frequent risk factors for several skin disorders including skin cancer. Sunscreen filters represent a valid protection against dangerous effects derived from UV radiation, and they can be divided in organic and inorganic UV filters. Adding, at the product formulation, molecules with booster effect, or also substances that can increase the protecting effectiveness via synergic mechanisms, can further enhance their protection activity. Moreover, this approach leads to develop formulations with high SPF (Sun Protection Factor) with a reduced content of UV filters, this is in line with the recent decisions of yet a few countries (Palau, Thailand, Philippines, and Hawaii) to ban some sunscreen filters to preserve marine environments (i.e., reef). In this work, a new class of sunscreen UV filters has been synthesized, by means the combination of physical filter and Oxisol, an antioxidant molecule with booster effect. In this study, the synthesis of new physical multifunctional ingredients is reported, by means the direct surface functionalization of inorganic filters (in particular TiO₂) with Oxisol. In this study, the full characterization of these multifunctional ingredients is also reported, in addition to the cytotoxicity tests, the photocatalytic activity and the rheological properties involved on skin application.

QM/MM Studies on the Photophysical Mechanism of a Truncated Octocrylene Model

Methyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (MCDPA) shares the same molecular skeleton with octocrylene (OCR) that is one of the most common molecules used in commercially available sunscreens. However, its excited-state relaxation mechanism is unclear. Herein, we have used the QM(CASPT2//CASSCF)/MM method to explore spectroscopic properties, geometric and electronic structures, relevant conical intersections and crossing points, and excited-state relaxation paths of MCDPA in methanol solution. We found that in the Franck-Condon (FC) region, the V(¹ππ*) state is energetically lower than the V'(¹ππ*) state only by 2.8 kcal/mol and is assigned to experimentally observed maximum absorption band. From these two initially populated singlet states, there exist three nonradiative relaxation paths to repopulate the S₀ state. In the first one, when the V(¹ππ*) state is populated in the FC region, the system diabatically evolves along the V(¹ππ*) state into its minimum where the internal conversion to S₀ occurs. In the second one, the V'(¹ππ*) state is populated in the FC region and the system adiabatically overcomes a barrier of ca. 3.0 kcal/mol to approach the V(¹ππ*) minimum eventually leading to a V(¹ππ*)-to-S₀ internal conversion. In the third one, the V'(¹ππ*) state first hops via the intersystem crossing to the T₂ state, which then decays through the internal conversion to the T₁ state. The T₁ state is finally converted to the S₀ state via the T₁/S₀ crossing point. Our present work contributes to understanding the photophysics of OCR and its variants.

Verifying community-wide exposure to endocrine disruptors in personal care products - In quest for metabolic biomarkers of exposure via in vitro studies and wastewater-based epidemiology

This study aimed to identify human specific metabolites of selected known or suspected endocrine disruptors (EDCs), mainly UV filters, used in personal care and consumer products whose metabolism has hardly been explored and to select suitable candidate biomarkers for human exposure studies using wastewater based epidemiology (WBE). The analysis of metabolic biomarkers of target chemicals is crucial in order to distinguish between internal and external exposure, since many sources contribute to chemicals being discharged into wastewater. This was achieved through the employment of a new analytical framework for verification of biomarkers of exposure to chemicals combining human biomonitoring and water fingerprinting. Eight EDCs with unknown metabolic pathways (benzophenone-1 (BP-1); benzophenone-2 (BP-2); 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone (4,4'-DHBP); 4-benzylphenol (4-BenzPh); homosalate (HO); octocrylene (OC); 3-benzylidene camphor (3-BC), and two EDCs with known metabolism (bisphenol A (BPA) and benzophenone-3 (BP-3)) were tested. The biotransformation observed consisted mainly of phase I processes such as hydrolysis and hydroxylation together with phase II conjugation reactions such as sulphation and glucuronidation. Only two chemicals (BP-1, BP-3) were identified in urine and three chemicals (BPA, BP-1, BP-3) in wastewater. Five newly discovered metabolites (HO-Met1, OC-Met1, 4-BenzPh-Met4, 4-BenzPh-Met5 and 4-BenzPh-Met6) and one previously known metabolite (BPA-Met3) were detected in tested urine/wastewater samples from five WWTPs serving large communities ranging between 17 and 100 thousand inhabitants. The presence of metabolic biotransformation products of OC, 4-BenzPh, BPA and HO in wastewater provides evidence for internal exposure of studied populations to these chemicals.

Determination of bifonazole and identification of its photocatalytic degradation products using UPLC-MS/MS

The main goal of the presented work was to investigate the effect of ZnO or/and TiO₂ on the stability of bifonazole in solutions under UVA irradiation. To this end, a simple and reproducible UPLC method for the determination of bifonazole in the presence of its photocatalytic degradation products was developed. Linearity was studied in the range of 0.0046-0.15 mg mL^-1 with a determination coefficient of 0.9996. Bifonazole underwent a photocatalytic degradation process under the experimental conditions used. Comparative studies showed that combination of TiO₂ /ZnO (1:1 w/w) was a more effective catalyst than TiO₂ or ZnO with a degradation rate of up to 67.57% after 24 h of irradiation. Further, kinetic analyses indicated that the photocatalytic degradation of bifonazole in the mixture of TiO₂ /ZnO can be described by a pseudo-first order reaction. Statistical comparison clearly indicated that the presence of TiO₂ /ZnO also affected the stability of bifonazole from a cream preparation after 15 h of UVA exposure (p < 0.05). Ten photodegradation products of bifonazole were identified for the first time and their plausible fragmentation pathways, derived from MS/MS data, were proposed. The main pathway in the photocatalytic transformation of bifonazole in the presence of ZnO or/and TiO₂ involves hydroxylation of the methanetriyl group and/or adjacent phenyl rings and cleavage of the imidazole moiety.

Rational Design and Synthesis of Efficient Sunscreens To Boost the Solar Protection Factor

Skin cancer incidence has been increasing in the last decades, but most of the commercial formulations used as sunscreens are designed to protect only against solar erythema. Many of the active components present in sunscreens show critical weaknesses, such as low stability and toxicity. Thus, the development of more efficient components is an urgent health necessity and an attractive industrial target. We have rationally designed core moieties with increased photoprotective capacities and a new energy dissipation mechanism. Using these scaffolds, we have synthesized a series of compounds with tunable properties suitable for their use in sunscreens, and enhanced properties in terms of stability, light energy dissipation, and toxicity. Moreover, some representative compounds were included in final sunscreen formulations and a relevant solar protection factor boost was measured.

Ultrafast photoprotective properties of the sunscreening agent octocrylene

Today octocrylene is one of the most common molecules included in commercially available sunscreens. It provides broadband photoprotection for the skin from incident UV-A and UV-B radiation of the solar spectrum. In order to understand how octocrylene fulfils its role as a sunscreening agent, femtosecond pump-probe transient electronic UV-visible absorption spectroscopy is utilised to investigate the ultrafastnonradiative relaxation mechanism of octocrylene in cyclohexane or methanol after UV-B photoexcitation. The data presented clearly shows that UV-B photoexcited octocrylene exhibits ultrafast-nonradiative relaxation mechanisms to repopulate its initial ground state within a few picoseconds, which, at the very least, photophysically justifies its wide spread inclusion in commercial sunscreens.

Reactivity of cosmetic UV filters towards skin proteins: model studies with Boc-lysine, Boc-Gly-Phe-Gly-Lys-OH, BSA and gelatin

OBJECTIVE

Organic UV filters are used as active ingredients in most sunscreens and also in a variety of daily care products. Their good (photo) stability is of special interest to guarantee protective function and to prevent interactions with the human skin. Due to the mostly electrophilic character of the UV filters, reactions with nucleophilic protein moieties like lysine side chains are conceivable. Prior studies showed that the UV filters octocrylene (OCR), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BM-DBM), ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS), ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), benzophenone-3 (BP-3), ethylhexyl triazone (EHT) and dibenzoylmethane (DBM) were able to covalently bind to an HPTLC amino phase and the amino acid models ethanolamine and butylamine after slightly heating and/or radiation.

METHODS

Boc-protected lysine, the tetrapeptide Boc-Gly-Phe-Gly-Lys-OH, bovine serum albumin (BSA) and porcine gelatin were used as more complex models to determine the reactivity of the mentioned UV filters towards skin proteins under thermal or UV irradiation conditions.

RESULTS

After gentle heating at 37°C, benzophenone imines were identified as reaction products of BP-3 and OCR with Boc-lysine and the tetrapeptide, whereas DBM and BM-DBM yielded enamines. For EHMC, a Michael-type reaction occurred, which resulted in addition of Boc-lysine or the tetrapeptide to the conjugated double bond. Ester aminolysis of EHS and EHT mainly afforded the corresponding amides. Reactions of the UV filters with BSA changed the UV spectrum of BSA, generally associated with an increase of the absorption strength in the UVA or UVB range. For all protein models, the UV filters showed an increasing reactivity in the order EHT < EHMC < EHS < BP-3 < OCR < DBM < BM-DBM.

CONCLUSION

Especially the UV absorbers BM-DBM, OCR and BP-3, which are seen as common allergens or photoallergens, showed a high reactivity towards the different skin protein models. As the formation of protein adducts is recognized as important key element in the induction of skin sensitization, the results of this study can contribute to a better understanding of the underlying chemical mechanisms of such reactions.