Photoprotection of the future: challenges and opportunities

Sunproofing from within: A deep dive into oral photoprotection strategies in dermatology

BACKGROUND

Photoprotection is the first measure in the prevention and treatment of the deleterious effects that sunlight can cause on the skin. It is well known that prolonged exposure to solar radiation leads to acute and chronic complications, such as erythema, accelerated skin aging, proinflammatory and procarcinogenic effects, and eye damage, among others.

METHODS

A better understanding of the molecules that can protect against ultraviolet radiation and their effects will lead to improvements in skin health.

RESULTS

Most of these effects of the sunlight are modulated by oxidative stress and proinflammatory mechanisms, therefore, the supplementation of substances that can regulate and neutralize reactive oxygen species would be beneficial for skin protection. Current evidence indicates that systemic photoprotection should be used as an adjunctive measure to topical photoprotection.

CONCLUSION

Oral photoprotectors are a promising option in improving protection against damage induced by UVR, as they contain active ingredients that increase the antioxidant effects of the body, complementing other photoprotection measures. We present a review of oral photoprotectors and their effects.

Exploring the impact of solar radiation on skin microbiome to develop improved photoprotection strategies

The skin microbiome undergoes constant exposure to solar radiation (SR), with its effects on health well-documented. However, understanding SR's influence on host-associated skin commensals remains nascent. This review surveys existing knowledge on SR's impact on the skin microbiome and proposes innovative sun protection methods that safeguard both skin integrity and microbiome balance. A team of skin photodamage specialists conducted a comprehensive review of 122 articles sourced from PubMed and Research Gateway. Key terms included skin microbiome, photoprotection, photodamage, skin cancer, ultraviolet radiation, solar radiation, skin commensals, skin protection, and pre/probiotics. Experts offered insights into novel sun protection products designed not only to shield the skin but also to mitigate SR's effects on the skin microbiome. Existing literature on SR's influence on the skin microbiome is limited. SR exposure can alter microbiome composition, potentially leading to dysbiosis, compromised skin barrier function, and immune system activation. Current sun protection methods generally overlook microbiome considerations. Tailored sun protection products that prioritize both skin and microbiome health may offer enhanced defense against SR-induced skin conditions. By safeguarding both skin and microbiota, these specialized products could mitigate dysbiosis risks associated with SR exposure, bolstering skin defense mechanisms and reducing the likelihood of SR-mediated skin issues.

Evaluating the factors influencing sun protection factors (SPF): Pooling data from multiple studies involving two reference ISO 24444:2019 sunscreen products (P2 and P8)

BACKGROUND

Standardized methods for sun protection factor (SPF) testing are still beset with endpoint and method-driven issues, and can be influenced by multiple factors. The purpose of this analysis is to explore the factors influencing the results of sun protection factor (SPF) testing in human subjects according to the ISO 24444:2019 standard. Intrinsic factors, such as baseline skin color, age and gender, the minimal erythemal dose on an unprotected area (MEDu), as well as environmental factors such as season/weather influences, are considered for analysis.

METHODS

Datasets generated for two reference products (P2 and P8) during the conduct of 50 such studies using the ISO standard 24444:2019 for the testing of SPF products, from a single testing center located in Bucharest, Romania between April 2021 and December 2022, were retrieved and compiled. Overall, the data for 334 subjects was available, with 276 observations for the reference P8, and 171 for P2.

RESULTS

No effects due to gender or age were detected. Seasonal changes, the individual typology angle (ITA°) and MEDu were found to have an influence on the outcome of the SPF values.

CONCLUSIONS

This study adds new original data about the impact of intrinsic and extrinsic factors on SPF variations pertaining to ISO reference sunscreen P8 (SPF 50+). The findings suggest that some factors will inevitably impact the results between two SPF experiments for the same product and SPF testing laboratory. The interconnections between the sources of this variation are discussed. The findings of this research help to identify and characterize factors that contribute to SPF testing variability.

Knowledge and the behavioral patterns of photoprotection among Koreans with skin disease

BACKGROUND

Photoprotection is crucial in preventing the development and progression of various skin diseases. However, patients with skin disease have limited awareness of photoprotection. We evaluated the knowledge and behavioral patterns of photoprotection among Koreans with skin diseases.

METHODS

A cross-sectional study was conducted in 11 general hospitals across South Korea. The study population consisted of patients aged 19 years or older who visited dermatologic clinics for their skin diseases. A self-administered questionnaire was used to collect patient demographics, knowledge of photoprotection, and photoprotective habits.

RESULTS

In this study, 1173 patients with skin cancer, hyperpigmentary disorders, hypopigmentary disorders, or other skin diseases participated. Females scored significantly higher in knowledge of photoprotection compared to males (mean score 8.4 vs. 7.8; p < .001), and younger patients (<50 years) scored higher than older patients (mean score 8.7 vs. 7.5; p < .001). Males also reported longer sun exposure times and lower usage of photoprotective measures (both p < .001). Patients with skin cancer had the lowest mean knowledge score (7.1 ± 2.6) and were less likely to use photoprotective measures compared to other groups (p < .001). In contrast, patients with hyperpigmentation actively avoided sun exposure compared with other groups (p < 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

Knowledge of photoprotection among Korean patients with skin diseases varied depending on the gender, age, and type of skin disease. Their photoprotective behaviors were inadequate, especially among males and those with skin cancer. These findings emphasize the importance of educating and tailoring photoprotection strategies for patients with skin diseases.

In vivo method for evaluating sunscreen protection against high-energy visible light

BACKGROUND

Overexposure to sunlight can have many harmful biological effects on the skin, leading to skin cancer and photoaging. As ultraviolet (UV) radiation has been identified as a cause of DNA damage and oxidative stress in the skin, the photoprotection provided by sunscreens is evaluated through their ability to filter UV light, using the sun protection factor (SPF). However, recent data have shown that high-energy visible (HEV) light can also cause biological skin damage.

OBJECTIVES

To develop a new in vivo method for evaluating the protection provided by sunscreens across a broad range of wavelengths, including the HEV band, based on multispectral image analysis.

METHODS

This study evaluated the absorption properties of six commercially available sunscreens (five SPF 50+ products containing organic UV filters, and one product containing the wide spectrum filter, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine [TriAsorB™]) and of a control product containing no filter. Multispectral images were acquired from the skin on the forearms of healthy volunteers, before and after application of the test products. Images taken with LEDs emitting light at wavelengths ranging from UV to infrared were used to generate light reflectance maps for each product. The levels of absorbance of light in the UV and visible bands were then calculated.

RESULTS

The product containing the wide spectrum filter exhibited significantly higher absorbance over the HEV band (380-450 nm) than the control product and the other commercial sunscreens. All the sunscreens tested showed the same level of absorbance at 365 nm (UVA).

CONCLUSIONS

Multispectral imaging provides a simple and reliable in vivo method for assessing the real-world protection provided by sunscreens against all forms of photo-induced skin damage, including that induced by HEV radiation.

Broad-spectrum sunscreens containing the TriAsorB™ filter: In vitro photoprotection and clinical evaluation of blue light-induced skin pigmentation

BACKGROUND

Blue light (BL), particularly high-energy visible (HEV) light (400-450 nm), can cause skin damage and pigmentation. Therefore, effective sunscreens should offer photoprotection beyond ultraviolet (UV) radiation to also prevent or limit BL-induced cutaneous effects.

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate the in vitro BL photostability and photoprotection properties of nine sunscreens containing the broad-spectrum UV/BL phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine (PBDT or TriAsorB™) filter, together with three other organic UV filters, and to assess the in vivo photoprotection level provided by two of these products against BL-induced skin pigmentation.

METHODS

In vitro BL photostability and photoprotection factors, comprising the percentage of BL radiation stopped by the product (%BL) and the critical wavelength extended to BL (BL-CW), were determined by spectrophotometry. The in vivo photoprotection provided by two representative sunscreens (i.e. similar formulations, one non-tinted and one tinted) was assessed in two open randomized studies (20 and 16 women, respectively) after exposure of two test areas (with and without sunscreen) on the back of each subject to a 412-nm irradiation dose at 50 J/cm2 , using instrumental and clinical measurements of skin pigmentation. The percentage sunscreen photoprotective effectiveness (%PPE) was calculated by comparing intrasubject post-exposure pigmentation changes between the with and without sunscreen test areas.

RESULTS

In vitro, the nine PBDT-containing products were highly photostable and had a BL-CW ≥385 nm and a %BL ≥30% (range: 30%-50%), thus allowing effective BL photoprotection. In vivo, both representative sunscreens prevented BL-induced immediate skin pigmentation (1 and 24 h post-exposure) with %PPE values ranging from 50.7% to 75.5% for colorimetric assessments (p < 0.001) and from 31.2% to 72.7% for visual scores (p ≤ 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

All PBDT-containing sunscreens were considered effective at absorbing BL radiation in vitro. The two representative broad-spectrum sunscreens tested in subjects significantly reduced BL-induced immediate skin pigmentation following single exposure to monochromatic BL radiation.

Consumer Behavior, Skin Phototype, Sunscreens, and Tools for Photoprotection: A Review

Sunscreens and photoprotection tools along with consumer habits and behaviors, can mitigate the skin damage caused by excessive solar radiation. For example, protecting oneself in the shade, avoiding inadequate sun exposure at times of higher incidence of UVB radiation (between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m.), wearing clothes with sun protection factors, applying sunscreens at the correct amounts and intervals, and wearing glasses with anti-UVA and UVB lenses are effective measures for protecting an individual. Therefore, the objective of this review was to highlight the importance of photoprotection for all skin phototypes, as skin cancer is a worldwide public health problem. In this review of the scientific literature on the Scopus platform between 2015 and 2022, we addressed the most common behaviors among different individuals and their phototypes, the importance of clarifying population habits against solar radiation, and the use of sunscreens and photoprotection tools to provide advice on healthy and safe sun exposure.

Photoprotection for people with skin of colour: needs and strategies

Skin of colour or pigmented skin has unique characteristics: it has a higher eumelanin-to-pheomelanin ratio, more mature melanosomes, an increased amount of melanin distributed in the upper layers of the epidermis, and more efficient DNA repair compared with lighter skin. However, individuals with skin of colour are at a significant risk of skin damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, including the development of photodermatoses and photoageing changes such as uneven skin tone, and are predisposed to pigmentary disorders. In fact, one of the most common conditions leading to dermatology consultations by patients with skin of colour is photoexacerbated pigmentary disorders. Unfortunately, individuals with skin of colour may be less prone to engage in photoprotective measures, including the use of sunscreens. Physicians are also less likely to prescribe sunscreens for them. There is thus a clear need for better education on photodamage and for more efficient and suitable photoprotection in populations with skin of colour. However, this need has thus far only partially been met, and the development of sunscreen products designed to provide optimal photoprotection for people with skin of colour remains a challenge. Targeted sunscreens for individuals with skin of colour require optimal cosmetic appeal (leaving no white residue and not disrupting skin tone). They should include broad-spectrum [ultraviolet (UV)B/UVA] protection with high sun protection factor, as well as protection against long-wave UVA (UVA1) and visible light, as these wavelengths are capable of inducing or augmenting pigmentary disorders. They may also contain depigmenting agents for patients with pigmentary disorders.

Process Optimization of Phytoantioxidant and Photoprotective Compounds from Carob Pods (Ceratonia siliqua L.) Using Ultrasonic Assisted Extraction Method

The current study first describes the extraction of phytoantioxidant polyphenols from Carob byproducts (pods) using maceration and heating-assisted extraction as traditional methods and ultrasonic-assisted extraction (UAE) as an innovative method to determine the most efficient extraction process in terms of four targeted responses: total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant activities (TAC and DPPH), and photoprotective properties as measured by the sun protection factor (SPF). Second, we used response surface methodology (RSM) with a central composite rotatable design (CCDR) approach to investigate the influence of process variables (extraction time, extraction temperature, and solvent concentration) on UAE, which was found to be the most effective extraction technique in our study. Carob byproduct extracts had a TPC ranging from 6.21 to 21.92 mg GAE/g dw, a TAC ranging from 22.00 to 49.30 mg AAE/g dw, DPPH scavenging activity ranging from 56.35 to 90.50%, and SPF values ranging from 8.62 to 22.37. The optimal UAE conditions for maximum TPC, TAC, DPPH, and SPF responses were determined to be 38.90% ethanol, 53.90 °C, and 50.92 min. Using Carob as a source for sustainable and bioactive products in conjunction with optimized UAE is a promising contribution to the cosmetic industry that will help to strengthen the concept of environmentally-friendly "green chemistry". Given that Carob pulp or seeds are considered food byproducts, the research presented here encourages the use of these agri-food waste materials in cosmetics.

Commentary: Facial Aesthetic Dermatological Procedures and Photoprotection in Chinese Populations

The medical literature on aesthetic dermatology has primarily focused on a light-skinned patient population, yet patients of darker skin types have different needs and priorities. In Chinese individuals, key concerns include altered pigmentation, which is perceived to age the individual, and also relates to the Chinese cultural standard of beauty of fair skin; many seek aesthetic treatment for this. Non-invasive cosmetic procedures such as lasers and injections are also gaining in popularity in the Chinese market, but this population is prone to hyperpigmentation as an adverse effect of such procedures. Considered and tailored approaches, both to primary concerns of photoaging and the side effects of cosmetic treatments, are warranted.

Formulation of a new broad-spectrum UVB + UVA and blue light SPF50+ sunscreen containing Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine (TriAsorB), an innovative sun filter with unique optical properties

Accumulating evidence from numerous comprehensive studies has demonstrated that blue light, in particular high-energy visible light, can exert a range of harmful effects on skin cells. These forms of radiation are now known to be able to trigger oxidation reactions, DNA damage, erythema and pigmentary changes, and may also be associated with photoaging. Sunscreens protecting the skin from only ultraviolet (UV)-B and UVA rays can therefore no longer be regarded as sufficient to help prevent skin damage from sunlight, and products containing filters that can provide broad-spectrum photoprotection are required. To meet this need, a new sunscreen formulation that provides photoprotection against solar radiation with wavelengths ranging from UV to visible light has been developed, using an innovative organic sun filter with unique optical properties: phenylene bis diphenyltriazine (TriAsorB™). This article outlines the development and characteristics of this innovative filter and describes new key results from studies performed to assess the effectiveness and safety of the filter and the new sunscreen product. The studies conducted so far demonstrate that the filter has a good human and environmental safety profile. In addition, the sunscreen, which contains TriAsorB in combination with three other UV filters to offer broad-spectrum sun protection with a high sun protection factor (SPF50⁺ ), appears to effectively prevent multiple forms of cellular photodamage, in particular blue light-induced oxidatively generated DNA lesions. Overall, the available data indicate that regular use of the TriAsorB-containing sunscreen could help prevent solar radiation-induced skin damage and the development of signs of premature skin aging, as well as photodermatoses caused or exacerbated by visible light.

UV filters and their impact on marine life: state of the science, data gaps, and next steps

Sunscreens containing broad-spectrum ultraviolet (UV) filters play an essential role in protecting the skin against the damage induced by sun overexposure. However, the widespread use of sunscreens and other personal care products containing these filters has led to these compounds being widely detected in the environment and being identified as emerging pollutants in marine waters. Concerns raised by laboratory studies investigating the potential impact of UV filters on coral communities have already led to bans on the use of some sunscreens in a few tourist hotspots. Although UV filter pollution may be just one of the many environmental factors impacting coral health worldwide, the media attention surrounding these studies and the legislative changes may lead patients to question dermatologists about the environmental safety of some sunscreen products. This review provides an overview of current knowledge on the impact of UV filters on marine ecosystems, concentrating on recent studies examining the effects of commonly used filters on organisms at low trophic levels and of how alternative approaches, such as metabolomics, can be used to further assess UV filter ecotoxicity. Current gaps in our knowledge are also discussed, most notably the need to increase our understanding of the longer-term fate and behaviour of UV filters in the marine environment, develop more adapted standardized ecotoxicity tests for a wider range of marine species, and evaluate the impact of UV filters on the marine food web. We then discuss future perspectives for the development of new, more environmentally friendly, filters that may enable the use of the most toxic compounds to be reduced without compromising the effectiveness of sunscreen formulations. Finally, we consider how dermatologists play a key role in educating patients on the need for a balanced approach to sun exposure, sun protection, and conservation of the marine environment.

[Sunscreens of the future: challenges and opportunities]

Sunscreens provide excellent protection against erythema and against chronic damage such as photoaging and skin cancer. Today's challenges concern safety of the products and improved methods for standardizing the evaluation of their efficacy. Other important topics are the further development of sunscreen products, as well as personalization of use. Personalized sun protection based on the phenotype, the genetic profiles and moreover the skin's microbiome - all linked to the identification of certain consumer susceptibility factors - is an exciting new area of research. In particular, the expansion with innovative topical agents such as DNA repair liposomes in improved galenic formulations with UV filters tailored to the skin phototype and new topical antioxidants could in future provide even more comprehensive sun protection. New antioxidants and other agents such as nicotinamide could increase systemic photoprevention. Sustainability will also be an important aspect to protect consumers, but also the environment (i.e. especially marine wildlife) from toxic effects of sunscreens.

UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects

The use of sunscreens is an established and recommended practice to protect skin from solar-induced damage. Around 30 UV filters can be used in sunscreen products in the European Union, which ought to follow the requirements of the regulation 1223/2009 to ensure their efficacy and safety for humans. Nevertheless, low photostability and putative toxicity for humans and environment have been reported for some UV filters. Particularly, the negative impact in marine organisms has recently raised concern on the scientific community. Therefore, it is important to develop new UV filters with improved safety profile and photostability. Over the last two decades, nearly 200 new compounds have revealed promising photoprotection properties. The explored compounds were obtained through different approaches, including exploration of natural sources, synthetic pathways, and nanotechnology. Almost 50 natural products and around 140 synthetic derivatives, such as benzimidazoles, benzotriazoles, hydroxycinnamic acids, xanthones, triazines, among others, have been studied aiming the discovery of novel, effective, and safer future photoprotective agents. Herein, we provide the reader with an overview about UV filters’ challenges and prospects, offering a forward-looking to the next-generation of UV filters.

Elucidating the photoprotective properties of natural UV screening agents: ZEKE-PFI spectroscopy of methyl sinapate

As a prominent derivative of a natural sunscreen, methyl sinapate is an ideal candidate to provide fundamental insight into strategies on how to come to a rational design of artificial sunscreen filters with improved photoprotective properties. Here, static and time-resolved Zero Kinetic Energy-Pulsed Field Ionization (ZEKE-PFI) photoelectron spectroscopy has been used to study the spectroscopy and decay pathways of its electronically excited states. We find that different conformers are subject to distinct structural changes upon electronic excitation, and trace the structural changes that occur upon excitation back to the character of the LUMO. Ionization efficiency spectra in combination with pump-probe ZEKE-PFI spectra are consistent with the conclusion that the long-lived electronically excited state observed in the decay of the lowest excited singlet state is the lowest excited triplet state. Concurrently with providing information on the electronically excited states, the studies allow for a detailed characterization of the spectroscopic properties of the ground state of the radical ion, which is important in the context of the use of cinnamates in nature as antioxidants. Our studies determine the adiabatic ionization energies of the syn/cis, anti/cis and anti/trans conformers as 60 291.1 ± 0.5, 60 366.9 ± 0.5 and 60 503.9 ± 1.0 cm^-1, respectively, and provide accurate vibrational fequencies of low-frequency modes of the molecular ion in its electronic ground state. Finally, the studies emphasize the important role of vibrational and electronic autoionization processes that start to dominate the ionization dynamics in non-rigid molecules of the present size.

Amorphous and crystalline cerium(IV) phosphates: biocompatible ROS-scavenging sunscreens

This paper reports on a comprehensive study of the UV-shielding properties (namely, the sun protection factor and the factor of protection against UV-A radiation) and cytotoxicity (including photocytotoxicity) of amorphous and crystalline cerium(IV) phosphates. It has been shown that cerium(IV) phosphate NH₄Ce₂(PO₄)₃ is characterised by UV-shielding properties that are comparable to those of nanocrystalline TiO₂ and CeO₂. Moreover, cerium(IV) phosphates did not show toxicity towards cell cultures of NCTC L929 line mouse fibroblasts and human mesenchymal stem cells, in a wide range of concentrations, and even enhanced the proliferative activity of the latter. In a model study of the photoprotective properties of cerium(IV) phosphates on human mesenchymal stem cells, the pronounced protective effect of NH₄Ce₂(PO₄)₃ was observed, which was comparable to the shielding action of nanocrystalline CeO₂. The results have shown that tetravalent cerium phosphates can be considered as promising UV-filters for sunscreen applications.

Plant Secondary Metabolites against Skin Photodamage: Mexican Plants, a Potential Source of UV-Radiation Protectant Molecules

Human skin works as a barrier against the adverse effects of environmental agents, including ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Exposure to UVR is associated with a variety of harmful effects on the skin, and it is one of the most common health concerns. Solar UVR constitutes the major etiological factor in the development of cutaneous malignancy. However, more than 90% of skin cancer cases could be avoided with appropriate preventive measures such as regular sunscreen use. Plants, constantly irradiated by sunlight, are able to synthesize specialized molecules to fight against UVR damage. Phenolic compounds, alkaloids and carotenoids constitute the major plant secondary metabolism compounds with relevant UVR protection activities. Hence, plants are an important source of molecules used to avoid UVR damage, reduce photoaging and prevent skin cancers and related illnesses. Due to its significance, we reviewed the main plant secondary metabolites related to UVR protection and its reported mechanisms. In addition, we summarized the research in Mexican plants related to UV protection. We presented the most studied Mexican plants and the photoprotective molecules found in them. Additionally, we analyzed the studies conducted to elucidate the mechanism of photoprotection of those molecules and their potential use as ingredients in sunscreen formulas.

Cliona varians-Derived Actinomycetes as Bioresources of Photoprotection-Related Bioactive End-Products

Sunscreen and sunblock are crucial skincare products to prevent photoaging and photocarcinogenesis through the addition of chemical filters to absorb or block ultraviolet (UV) radiation. However, several sunscreen and sunblock ingredients, mostly UV filters, have been associated with human and environmental safety concerns. Therefore, the exploration and discovery of promising novel sources of efficient and safer compounds with photoprotection-related activities are currently required. Marine invertebrates, particularly their associated microbiota, are promising providers of specialized metabolites with valuable biotechnological applications. Nevertheless, despite Actinobacteria members being a well-known source of bioactive metabolites, their photoprotective potential has been poorly explored so far. Hence, a set of methanolic extracts obtained from Cliona varians-derived actinomycetes was screened regarding their antioxidant and UV-absorbing capacities (i.e., photoprotection-related activities). The active extract-producing strains were identified and classified within genera Streptomyces, Micrococcus, Gordonia, and Promicromonospora. This is the first report of the isolation of these microorganisms from C. varians (an ecologically important Caribbean coral reef-boring sponge). The in vitro cytotoxicity on dermal fibroblasts of oxybenzone and the selected active extracts revealed that oxybenzone exerted a cytotoxic effect, whereas no cytotoxic effect of test extracts was observed. Accordingly, the most active (SPFi > 5, radical scavenging > 50%) and nontoxic (cell viability > 75%) extracts were obtained from Streptomyces strains. Finally, LC-MS-based characterization suggested a broad chemical space within the test strains and agreed with the reported streptomycetes' chemodiversity. The respective metabolite profiling exposed a strain-specific metabolite occurrence, leading to the recognition of potential hits. These findings suggest that marine Streptomyces produce photoprotectants ought to be further explored in skincare applications.

Outdoor sunscreen testing with high-intensity solar exposure in a Chinese and Caucasian population

BACKGROUND

Currently, sunscreens' sun protection factor (SPF) and ultraviolet (UV) A protection are tested separately under indoor conditions, without considering external conditions that may affect performance. Studies are often conducted in Caucasian individuals; other racial groups may respond differently.

METHODS

An outdoor, double-blind, intra-individual study was performed in 63 healthy Chinese and Caucasian volunteers in Singapore. Subjects underwent one outdoor sun exposure lasting 2-3 hours. ISO reference products P3 (SPF 15), P5 (SPF 30), and P8 (SPF 50+) applied at 2 mg/cm² were compared against each other and against an untreated exposed area (positive control) and an unexposed area (negative control). Endpoints were investigator global assessment (IGA) of erythema at 24 hours, IGA of pigmentation at 1 week, and colorimetry (a*, L*, and ITA) at 24 hours and 1 week.

RESULTS

Clinical erythema and pigmentation scores were statistically significantly different among the three sunscreens, with the highest SPF product providing the highest protection, confirming the discriminatory capacity of the model used. Colorimetric assessment correlated well with clinical evaluation.

CONCLUSION

This study confirmed the feasibility of ranking sunscreens (at 2 mg/cm² ) based on clinical effects of high-intensity outdoor solar radiation. Larger studies are needed to look at differences in erythema and pigmentation reactions between Chinese and Caucasian individuals, which could be relevant for photoprotection.

Role of ingestible carotenoids in skin protection: A review of clinical evidence

Carotenoids, a class of phytonutrients, have been well established to boost skin's innate resistance against ultraviolet (UV) B-induced erythema (sunburn). Many of the published clinical studies thus far have focused on the measurement of erythema as the primary clinical indicator of skin protection against UVB radiation. More recent studies have shown that carotenoid supplementation provides even more skin protection than previously shown as new clinical and molecular endpoints beyond UVB-induced erythema have been reported. These recent studies have demonstrated that carotenoids also provide photoprotection against UVA-induced pigmentation and inhibit molecular markers of oxidative stress such as intercellular adhesion molecule 1, heme oxygenase-1, and matrix metalloproteinases 1 and 9. This article provides a comprehensive review of the published clinical evidence on skin benefits of carotenoids in the last five decades and indicates new perspectives on the role of ingestible carotenoids in skin protection.

Photoprotection according to skin phototype and dermatoses: practical recommendations from an expert panel

Increasing evidence on the impact of the different wavelengths of sunlight on the skin demonstrates the need for tailored recommendations of sunscreen according to skin phototype and dermatoses, which is now possible due to advances in the filters and formulations of sunscreens. A selective literature search was performed by an international expert panel, focusing on the type of sunscreen to recommend for photoaging, skin cancers, photodermatoses, pigmentary disorders and skin inflammatory disorders. Protection against ultraviolet (UV)B is especially important for light skin as there is a high risk of sunburn, DNA damage and skin cancers. Darker skin may be naturally better protected against UVB but is more prone to hyperpigmentation induced by visible light (VL) and UVA. Protection against UVA, VL and infrared A can be helpful for all skin phototypes as they penetrate deeply and cause photoaging. Long‐wave UVA1 plays a critical role in pigmentation, photoaging, skin cancer, DNA damage and photodermatoses. Adapting the formulation and texture of the sunscreen to the type of skin and dermatoses is also essential. Practical recommendations on the type of sunscreen to prescribe are provided to support the clinician in daily practice.

Daily photoprotection to prevent photoaging

BACKGROUND

Extrinsic skin aging or photoaging was previously thought to be almost exclusively due to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation. However, recent literature has described other contributing factors and clarification is thus required as to what extent and what type of daily photoprotection is needed to mitigate extrinsic skin aging.

METHODS

We reviewed the existing scientific evidence on daily photoprotection, and specific requirements at the product level, to prevent extrinsic skin aging. We critically reviewed the existing evidence on potential ecological and toxicological risks which might be associated with daily photoprotection.

RESULTS

Evidence shows that broad protection against the entire solar range of UVB, UVA, UVA1, visible light, and short infrared (IRA) is required to prevent extrinsic aging. Other exposome factors, such as air pollution and smoking, also contribute to skin aging. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen photoprotection should thus contain antioxidant ingredients for additional benefits against UV, IRA, and pollution-induced oxidative stress as well as anti-aging active ingredients to provide clinical benefits against skin aging signs, such as wrinkles and dark spots. Broad-spectrum sunscreen containing pigments, such as iron oxide, may be required for melasma prevention. There is no conclusive clinical evidence that daily sunscreen use is unsafe or that it compromises vitamin D synthesis.

CONCLUSION

Daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen containing antioxidant and anti-aging active ingredients can effectively reduce extrinsic aging.

EcoSun Pass: A tool to evaluate the ecofriendliness of UV filters used in sunscreen products

OBJECTIVE

Sunscreens play a major role in the EU sun protection strategy in order to prevent humans from UV light-induced skin damage. In recent years, the demand for high-quality sunscreen products including aspects of broad range and photostability of the UV protection, showing good spreadability onto human skin and excellent sensorial properties during and after application has increased. Environmental aspects are considered. Sunscreens are complex compositions, with UV filters being the key element in the formulations reaching up to about 30% in content in the final product. Some of these ingredients, however, may be regarded as hazardous for the aquatic environment. Nevertheless, the aquatic ecosystem represents only a single environmental compartment, which may be impacted by UV filters. Therefore, the EcoSun Pass (ESP) tool was developed in order to assess the overall environmental impact of UV filters in combination with its efficacy (Sun Protection Factor, SPF and UVA Protection Factor, UVA-PF).

METHODS

For that purpose, at first 24 of the EU-approved UV filters for sunscreen applications were evaluated for their environmental hazard profiles. Nine example UV filter compositions representing both SPF 30 and 50 were evaluated for ecofriendliness using the ESP tool.

RESULTS

The results revealed that two out of four SPF 30 compositions are considered as ecofriendly. Likewise, from the SPF 50 two out of five did meet the criteria for ecofriendliness. Furthermore, the results showed that most ecofriendly example formulations have also the lowest overall UV filter content in the product, based on the use of highly innovative and least hazardous UV filters.

CONCLUSION

These results demonstrate that the tool is applicable to various formulations being present on the market and thus allows for a selection of most ecofriendly and efficient UV filters to be used in sunscreens.

The Role of Photoprotection in Optimizing the Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease with an estimated prevalence of 10-15% in children and 2-10% in adults. Clinically, there is notable phenotypic variability driven by a complex interaction between genetics, immune function, and the environment. Impairment of the skin barrier plays a significant role in the pathogenesis of AD. The apparent beneficial effect of sunlight in patients with atopic eczema is questioned due to its capacity to disrupt the skin barrier and generate free radicals that can damage proteins, lipids, and DNA. The sum of the external factors that an individual is exposed to throughout their lifetime is termed the exposome. Environmental factors such as sun exposure, temperature, and humidity contribute to both AD flares and regional prevalence variation. Literature on photoprotection in atopic dermatitis is very scarce. The use of adequate sunscreens in atopic dermatitis can ensure the level of photoprotection required to prevent skin photoaging and skin cancer and to mitigate skin barrier dysfunction, decrease inflammation, and neutralize facial redness. Herein we discuss and review the role of UV radiation and the exposome in the etiology of AD, as well as the role of adequate photoprotection.

Visible light. Part II: Photoprotection against visible and ultraviolet light

Cutaneous photobiology studies have focused primarily on the ultraviolet portion of the solar spectrum. Visible light (VL), which comprises 50% of the electromagnetic radiation that reaches the Earth's surface and, as discussed in Part I of this CME, has cutaneous biologic effects, such as pigment darkening and erythema. Photoprotection against VL includes avoiding the sun, seeking shade, and using photoprotective clothing. The organic and inorganic ultraviolet filters used in sunscreens do not protect against VL, only tinted sunscreens do. In the United States, these filters are regulated by the Food and Drug Administration as an over-the-counter drug and are subject to more stringent regulations than in Europe, Asia, and Australia. There are no established guidelines regarding VL photoprotection. Alternative measures to confer VL photoprotection are being explored. These novel methods include topical, oral, and subcutaneous agents. Further development should focus on better protection in the ultraviolet A1 (340-400 nm) and VL ranges while enhancing the cosmesis of the final products.

[Skin aging: Pathophysiology and innovative therapies]

One of the major challenges of the 21^st century is the fight against aging, defined as a set of physiological mechanisms altering the physical and intellectual capacities of human beings. Aging of the skin is only one visible part of this process. It is associated with major healing defects linked in part to the alteration of the biomechanical properties of skin cells, mainly dermal fibroblasts. The immune system, another key component in maintaining skin homeostasis and the efficient healing of wounds, also suffers the effects of time: the consequent skin immunosenescence would limit the anti-infectious and vaccine response, while promoting a pro-tumor environment. The main skin damages due to aging, whether intrinsic or extrinsic, will be detailed before listing the effective anti-aging strategies to combat age-related dermal and epidermal stigmas.

Sensitized photo-oxidation of gadusol species mediated by singlet oxygen

Gadusols are efficient nature UV sunscreens with antioxidant capacity. The kinetics of the quenching reactions of singlet oxygen O₂(¹∆_g) by gadusol species was evaluated in aqueous solution as well as in the presence of direct charged micelles. Time-resolved phosphorescence detection of O₂(¹∆_g) indicated that gadusolate, the main species under biological pH, is a more efficient quencher than the enol form with a rate constant of ca. 1.3 × 10⁸ L mol^-1 s^-1. The deactivation proceeds via a collisional mechanism with clear dominance of chemical pathways, according to the rates of gadusol and oxygen consumptions, and typical photooxidation quantum yields of ca. 7%. The relative contributions of the chemical and physical quenching steps were not affected by the presence of anionic or cationic micelles emulating simple pseudo-biological environments. The products of the photo-oxidative quenching support a type II mechanism initiated by the addition of O₂(¹∆_g) to the C-C double bond of gadusolate. These results point to the relevance of considering the role of sacrifice antioxidant along with the UV-screening function for gadusol, particularly in the context of potential biotechnological applications of this natural molecule.