Anti‐skin aging properties of protocatechuic acid in vitro and in vivo

Cosmeceuticals for antiaging: a systematic review of safety and efficacy

Cosmeceuticals, the bridge between pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, contain biologically active ingredients that may improve the skin's overall appearance. As the market, accessibility, and popularity of cosmeceuticals increase, it is essential to understand the safety and efficacy of such products. This systematic review aims to examine published clinical studies involving the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging to provide evidence-based recommendations based on available efficacy and safety data. PubMed, Embase, and Cochrane were systematically searched on January 1, 2023 using PRISMA guidelines. Strength of evidence was graded using the Oxford Centre for Evidence-Based Medicine guidelines. Clinical recommendations were made based on the quality of the existing literature. A total of 153 articles regarding the use of cosmeceuticals for treatment of antiaging were identified. After screening of titles, abstracts, and full text, 32 studies involving 1236 patients met inclusion criteria, including 20 randomized controlled trials (RCTs) and 12 non-randomized open-label clinical trials for Vitamin C, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Tetrahydrojasmonic acid, Growth Factors, Methyl Estradiolpropanoate, Timosaponin A-III (TA-III), Protocatechuic acid, Grammatophyllum speciosum, and Jasmine rice panicle extract. Retinol and vitamin C for antiaging received a Grade A for recommendation. Methyl estradiolpropanoate, bakuchiol, tetrahydrojasmonic acid, and growth factors received a recommendation grade of C. The remaining ingredients were assigned an inconclusive grade of recommendation due to lack of evidence. Cosmeceuticals included in the review had favorable safety profiles with few significant adverse events. The review analyzes numerous different ingredients to provide an evidence-based approach to decision-making for consumers and physicians on the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging. Limitations to our review include a limited number of randomized controlled trials and a need for long-term data on each cosmeceutical's efficacy and safety. Future research is needed to establish the long-term effectiveness and safety of cosmeceuticals.

Bioactive Compounds and Potential Health Benefits through Cosmetic Applications of Cherry Stem Extract

Cherry stems, prized in traditional medicine for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, derive their efficacy from abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. This makes them an ideal option for addressing skin aging and diseases. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cherry stem extract for potential skincare use. To this end, the extract was first comprehensively characterized by HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS. The extract's total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant capacity, radical scavenging efficiency, and its ability to inhibit enzymes related to skin aging were determined. A total of 146 compounds were annotated in the cherry stem extract. The extract effectively fought against NO· and HOCl radicals with IC50 values of 2.32 and 5.4 mg/L. Additionally, it inhibited HYALase, collagenase, and XOD enzymes with IC50 values of 7.39, 111.92, and 10 mg/L, respectively. Based on the promising results that were obtained, the extract was subsequently gently integrated into a cosmetic gel at different concentrations and subjected to further stability evaluations. The accelerated stability was assessed through temperature ramping, heating-cooling cycles, and centrifugation, while the long-term stability was evaluated by storing the formulations under light and dark conditions for three months. The gel formulation enriched with cherry stem extract exhibited good stability and compatibility for topical application. Cherry stem extract may be a valuable ingredient for creating beneficial skincare cosmeceuticals.

Inhibitory effects of bioactive compounds on UVB-induced photodamage in human keratinocytes: modulation of MMP1 and Wnt signaling pathways

UVB radiation significantly threatens skin health, contributing to wrinkle formation and an elevated risk of skin cancer. This study aimed to explore bioactive compounds with potential UVB-protective properties. Using in silico analysis, we chose compounds to reduce binding energy with matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP1). Piperitoside, procyanidin C1, and mulberrofuran E emerged as promising candidates through this computational screening process. We investigated the UVB-protective efficacy of the selected compounds and underlying mechanisms in human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT). We also investigated the molecular pathways implicated in their action, focusing on the transforming growth factor (TGF)-β and wingless-related integration site (Wnt)/β-catenin signaling pathways. In UVB-exposed HaCaT cells (100 mJ/cm2 for 30 min), piperitoside, procyanidin C1, and mulberrofuran E significantly reduced reactive oxygen species (ROS) and lipid peroxides, coupled with an augmentation of collagen expression. These compounds suppressed MMP1, tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), and inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) expression, while they concurrently enhanced collagen-1 (COL1A1), β-catenin (CTNNB1), and superoxide dismutase type-1 (SOD1) expression. Furthermore, Wnt/β-catenin inhibitors, when administered subsequently, partially counteracted the reduction in MMP1 expression and alleviated inflammatory and oxidative stress markers induced by the bioactive compounds. In conclusion, piperitoside, procyanidin C1, and mulberrofuran E protected against UVB-induced damage in HaCaT cells by inhibiting MMP1 expression and elevating β-catenin expression. Consequently, these bioactive compounds emerge as promising preventive agents for UVB-induced skin damage, promoting skin health.

Polyphenols as Potential Geroprotectors

Significance: Currently, a large amount of evidence of beneficial effects of diets enriched with polyphenols on various aspects of health has been accumulated. These phytochemicals have a geroprotective potential slowing down the pathological processes associated with aging and ensuring longevity. In this study, a comprehensive analysis was conducted to determine the adherence of individual polyphenols to geroprotector criteria. Data from experimental models, clinical trials, and epidemiological studies were analyzed. Recent Advances: Sixty-two polyphenols have been described to increase the life span and improve biomarkers of aging in animal models. They act via evolutionarily conserved molecular mechanisms, including hormesis and maintenance of redox homeostasis, epigenetic regulation, response to cellular damage, metabolic control, and anti-inflammatory and senolytic activity. Epidemiological and clinical studies suggest that certain polyphenols have a potential for prevention and treatment of various diseases, including cancer, metabolic disorders, and cardiovascular conditions in humans. Critical Issues: Among the reviewed phytochemicals, chlorogenic acid, quercetin, epicatechin, genistein, resveratrol, and curcumin were identified as compounds with the highest geroprotective potential. However, there is a lack of unambiguous information on the effectiveness and safety of polyphenols for increasing health span, preventing and treating aging-associated diseases in humans. Future Directions: Further research is needed to fully understand the effects of polyphenols considering their long-term consumption, metabolic modification and bioavailability, complex interactions between different groups of polyphenols and with other phytochemicals, as well as their effects on individuals with different health status. Antioxid. Redox Signal. 40, 564-593.

Kombucha as a Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetics-An Ex Vivo Skin Permeation Study

Kombucha is a non-alcoholic beverage, that is increasingly used in the cosmetic industry. The available literature reports the positive effects of kombucha on the skin, in particular its antioxidant action. However, there is a lack of information on skin permeation and the accumulation of active ingredients showing such effects. Skin aging is largely dependent on oxidative stress, therefore in our study we assessed the ex vivo permeation of two types of kombucha (green and black tea) through porcine skin. The antioxidant activity (DPPH, ABTS, FRAP methods) and total polyphenol content of these extracts were determined before and after permeation testing. Moreover, the content of selected phenolic acids as well as caffeine was assessed. Skin permeation was determined using a Franz diffusion cell. The antioxidant activity of both Kombuchas was found to be high. In addition, gallic acid, chlorogenic acid, protocatechuic acid, coumaric acid, m-hydroxybenzoic acid, and caffeine were identified. A 24-h ex vivo study showed the permeation of some phenolic acids and caffeine and their accumulation in the skin. Our results confirm the importance of studying the skin permeation of what are still little known ingredients in cosmetic preparations. Evaluation of the accumulation of these ingredients can guarantee the efficacy of such preparations.

Promising Anti-Wrinkle Applications of Aromatic Extracts of Hedychium coronarium J. Koenig via Antioxidation and Collagenase Inhibition

This study aimed to extract aromatic compounds from the rhizomes, leaf sheaths, and leaves of Hedychium coronarium and investigate their chemical compositions, cosmetic/cosmeceutical activities, and irritation potency. The chemical compositions were investigated via gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activities were evaluated via spectrophotometry. The anti-skin wrinkle properties were investigated via collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition. The irritation potency was observed via a hen's egg-chorioallantoic membrane test. Eucalyptol was detected as a major component in the rhizomes and leaf sheaths, while β-caryophyllene was predominant in the leaves. The absolutes from the rhizomes were the strongest antioxidants, with ABTS scavenging properties similar to L-ascorbic acid. Interestingly, the equivalent concentration (EC1) of the absolute from the rhizome was 0.82 ± 0.01 µg FeSO4/g extract, which was significantly more potent than L-ascorbic acid (0.43 ± 0.03 µg FeSO4/g extract). The rhizome-derived absolute was the most effective against collagenase, while the concretes from the rhizomes and leaf sheaths showed promising anti-hyaluronidase activity with inhibitions of 90.5 ± 1.6% and 87.4 ± 5.1%, respectively. The irritability of the aromatic extracts was not different from that of the vehicle control, proving their safety. Therefore, the Hedychium coronarium rhizome-derived absolute was an attractive and potent antioxidant with anti-collagenase activities, indicating its potential for use in anti-aging formulations.

Research Progress in Skin Aging, Metabolism, and Related Products

In recent years, skin aging has received increasing attention. Many factors affect skin aging, and research has shown that metabolism plays a vital role in skin aging, but there needs to be a more systematic review. This article reviews the interaction between skin metabolism and aging from the perspectives of glucose, protein, and lipid metabolism and explores relevant strategies for skin metabolism regulation. We found that skin aging affects the metabolism of three major substances, which are glucose, protein, and lipids, and the metabolism of the three major substances in the skin also affects the process of skin aging. Some drugs or compounds can regulate the metabolic disorders mentioned above to exert anti-aging effects. Currently, there are a variety of products, but most of them focus on improving skin collagen levels. Skin aging is closely related to metabolism, and they interact with each other. Regulating specific metabolic disorders in the skin is an important anti-aging strategy. Research and development have focused on improving collagen levels, while the regulation of other skin glycosylation and lipid disorders including key membrane or cytoskeleton proteins is relatively rare. Further research and development are expected.

Research Progress on Skin Aging and Active Ingredients

With the advancement of living standards in modern society and the emergence of an aging population, an increasing number of people are becoming interested in the topic of aging and anti-aging. An important feature of aging is skin aging, and women are particularly concerned about skin aging. In the field of cosmetics, the market share of anti-aging products is increasing year by year. This article reviews the research and development progress of skin aging and related active compounds both domestically and internationally in recent years. The results show that, in terms of the research on skin aging, the popular theories mainly include free radicals and oxidative stress theory, inflammation theory, photoaging theory, and nonenzymatic glycosyl chemistry theory. In terms of research on the active ingredients with anti-aging activities in the skin, there are numerous reports on related products in clinical studies on human subjects, animal experiments, and experimental studies on cell cultures, with a variety of types. Most of the compounds against skin aging are sourced from natural products and their action mechanisms are mainly related to scavenging oxygen free radicals and enhancing antioxidant defenses. This review provides important references for the future research of skin aging and the development of related products. Although there is a great progress in skin aging including related active ingredients, ideal compounds or products are still lacking and need to be further validated. New mechanisms of skin aging, new active ingredients sourced from natural and artificial products, and new pharmaceutical forms including further clinical validations should be further investigated in the future.

The Most Potent Natural Pharmaceuticals, Cosmetics, and Food Ingredients Isolated from Plants with Deep Eutectic Solvents

There is growing interest in reducing the number of synthetic products or additives and replacing them with natural ones. The pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and food industries are especially focused on natural and bioactive chemicals isolated from plants or microorganisms. The main challenge here is to develop efficient and ecological methods for their isolation. According to the strategies and rules of sustainable development and green chemistry, green solvents and environmentally friendly technologies must be used. The application of deep eutectic solvents as efficient and biodegradable solvents seems to be a promising alternative to traditional methods. They are classified as being green and ecological but, most importantly, very efficient extraction media compared to organic solvents. The aim of this review is to present the recent findings on green extraction, as well as the biological activities and the possible applications of natural plant ingredients, namely, phenolics, flavonoids, terpenes, saponins, and some others. This paper thoroughly reviews modern, ecological, and efficient extraction methods with the use of deep eutectic solvents (DESs). The newest findings, as well as the factors influencing the efficiency of extraction, such as water content, and hydrogen bond donor and acceptor types, as well as the extraction systems, are also discussed. New solutions to the major problem of separating DESs from the extract and for solvent recycling are also presented.

Exhausted Grape Seed Residues as a Valuable Source of Antioxidant Molecules for the Formulation of Biocompatible Cosmetic Scrubs

Grape seed of Obeidi, a white Lebanese autochthonous variety, was previously tested in different studies as a valuable source of bioactive molecules such as polyphenols, oils, and proteins by means of extraction procedures for the development of cosmetic and therapeutic products. However, an un-valorized, exhausted grape seed residue remains as "secondary waste" after the extraction processes. In this study, the exhausted seeds have been further exploited to produce cosmetic scrubs capable of releasing antioxidant molecules during the exfoliation process, in accordance with the principles of the circular economy and going toward a zero-waste process. The deep characterization of the exhausted seeds confirmed the presence of antioxidant phenolic molecules including gallic acid, catechins and protocatechuic acid (0.13, 0.126, and 0.089 mg/g of dry matter DM), and a high phenolic content (11.85 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g of dry matter (DM)). Moreover, these residues were shown to possess a sandy texture (Hausner ratio (HR): 1.154, Carr index (CI): 0.133, and angle of repose: 31.62 (°) degrees), similar to commercial natural exfoliants. In this respect, exhausted Obeidi grape seed residues were incorporated at increasing concentrations (0.5, 1, 1.5, and 2% w/w) in a cosmetic scrub, and stored for 5 weeks at 4, 25, and 50 °C for stability testing. All tested scrub formulations exhibited good spreadability with a spread diameter of 3.6-4.7 cm and excellent physical stability, as no phase separation or color change were observed after four cycles of heat shock at 4 and 50 °C. Finally, an in vivo skin irritation test showed that the scrub enriched with 1.5% of exhausted Obeidi grape seed residues was the most promising formulation, as it possessed a high amount of phenolic molecules (0.042 ± 0.001 mg GAE/mL of scrub) and good stability and could be safely applied to the skin with no irritation phenomena. Overall results underlined that exhausted grape seed residues can be transformed into promising systems for both physical and chemical exfoliation, thus confirming the importance of the effective exploitation of agro-industrial by-products for the development of high value cosmeceutics towards a more sustainable and zero-waste approach.

Anti-Inflammatory and Protective Effects of Water Extract and Bioferment from Sambucus nigra Fruit in LPS-Induced Human Skin Fibroblasts

In this study, an attempt was made to evaluate the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and protective effects of the Sambucus nigra fruit extract and its ferment obtained by fermentation with kombucha tea fungus. For this purpose, fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of their chemical composition by the HPLC/ESI-MS chromatographic method. The antioxidant activity of the tested samples was assessed using DPPH and ABTS assays. Cytotoxicity was also determined using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests to assess the viability and metabolism of fibroblast and keratinocyte skin cells. Potential anti-aging properties were determined by their ability to inhibit the activity of the metalloproteinases collagenase and elastase. Tests showed that the extract and the ferment have antioxidant properties and stimulate the proliferation of both cell types. The study also assessed the anti-inflammatory activity of the extract and ferment by monitoring levels of the pro-inflammatory interleukins IL-6, IL-1ß, tumor necrosis factor (TNF-α) and anti-inflammatory IL-10 in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-treated fibroblast cells. The results indicate that both the S. nigra extract and its kombucha ferment can be effective in preventing free-radical-induced cell damage and have positive effects on skin cell health.

Hairy Root Cultures as a Source of Phenolic Antioxidants: Simple Phenolics, Phenolic Acids, Phenylethanoids, and Hydroxycinnamates

Plant-derived antioxidants are intrinsic components of human diet and factors implicated in tolerance mechanisms against environmental stresses in both plants and humans. They are being used as food preservatives and additives or ingredients of cosmetics. For nearly forty years, Rhizobium rhizogenes-transformed roots (hairy roots) have been studied in respect to their usability as producers of plant specialized metabolites of different, primarily medical applications. Moreover, the hairy root cultures have proven their value as a tool in crop plant improvement and in plant secondary metabolism investigations. Though cultivated plants remain a major source of plant polyphenolics of economic importance, the decline in biodiversity caused by climate changes and overexploitation of natural resources may increase the interest in hairy roots as a productive and renewable source of biologically active compounds. The present review examines hairy roots as efficient producers of simple phenolics, phenylethanoids, and hydroxycinnamates of plant origin and summarizes efforts to maximize the product yield. Attempts to use Rhizobium rhizogenes-mediated genetic transformation for inducing enhanced production of the plant phenolics/polyphenolics in crop plants are also mentioned.

Protective effects of protocatechuic acid against doxorubicin- and arsenic trioxide-induced toxicity in cardiomyocytes

Background and purpose

Some chemotherapeutic drugs are associated with an increased risk of cardiotoxicity in patients. Protocatechuic acid (PCA) is a phenolic acid with valuable cardiovascular, chemo-preventive, and anticancer activities. Recent studies have shown the cardioprotective effects of PCA in several pathological conditions. This investigation aimed to assess the possible protective effects of PCA on cardiomyocytes against toxicities caused by anti-neoplastic agents, doxorubicin (DOX), and arsenic trioxide (ATO).

Experimental approach

H9C2 cells were exposed to DOX (1 μM) or ATO (35 μM) after 24 h pretreatment with PCA (1-100 μM). MTT and lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) tests were used to define cell viability or cytotoxicity. Total oxidant and antioxidant capacities were evaluated by measuring hydroperoxides and ferric-reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) levels. Expression of the TLR4 gene was also quantitatively estimated by real-time polymerase chain reaction.

Findings/Results

PCA showed a proliferative effect on cardiomyocytes and significantly enhanced cell viability and reduced cytotoxicity of DOX and ATO during MTT and LDH assays. Pretreatment of cardiomyocytes with PCA significantly decreased hydroperoxide levels and elevated FRAP value. Moreover, PCA meaningfully decreased TLR4 expression in DOX-and ATO-treated cardiomyocytes.

Conclusions and implications

In conclusion, antioxidant and cytoprotective activities were found for PCA versus toxicities caused by DOX and ATO in cardiomyocytes. However, further in vivo investigations are recommended to assess its clinical value for the prevention and treatment of cardiotoxicity induced by chemotherapeutic agents.

The Skin-Whitening and Antioxidant Effects of Protocatechuic Acid (PCA) Derivatives in Melanoma and Fibroblast Cell Lines

The skin is the most voluminous organ of the human body and is exposed to the outer environment. Such exposed skin suffers from the effects of various intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors. Skin aging is characterized by features such as wrinkling, loss of elasticity, and skin pigmentation. Skin pigmentation occurs in skin aging and is caused by hyper-melanogenesis and oxidative stress. Protocatechuic acid (PCA) is a natural secondary metabolite from a plant-based source widely used as a cosmetic ingredient. We chemically designed and synthesized PCA derivatives conjugated with alkyl esters to develop effective chemicals that have skin-whitening and antioxidant effects and enhance the pharmacological activities of PCA. We identified that melanin biosynthesis in B16 melanoma cells treated with alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) is decreased by PCA derivatives. We also found that PCA derivatives effectively have antioxidant effects in HS68 fibroblast cells. In this study, we suggest that our PCA derivatives are potent ingredients for developing cosmetics with skin-whitening and antioxidant effects.

Panax ginseng Meyer cv. Silvatica phenolic acids protect DNA from oxidative damage by activating Nrf2 to protect HFF-1 cells from UVA-induced photoaging

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Long-wave ultraviolet A (UVA) causes skin aging by damaging the fine structures of the skin, such as elastic fibers and collagen fibers, through oxidation. Currently, the use of plant extracts to protect skin from photoaging is a popular method. Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer exerts commendable anti-photoaging and antioxidant effects. P. ginseng Meyer cv. Silvatica, also known as forest ginseng (FG), is a type of ginseng cultivated by artificially simulating the growth environment of wild ginseng aged >15 years. However, there are only a few reports on its anti-photoaging effect on the skin caused by UVA stimulation.

AIM OF THE STUDY

To investigate whether isolated and extracted FG can inhibit skin photoaging as well as to explore its action mechanism.

METHODS

The FG extract (FGE) was obtained from the supernatant of FG after water extraction and alcohol precipitation with the D101 resin. The composition and content of phenolic acids in FGE were determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The MTT assay was performed to detect cell viability. The ratio of SA-β-GAL-positive cells, CoL-I level, 8-OHdG concentration, MDA, GSH, GPx, SOD, and CAT activity were measured using relevant kits. Furthermore, cell cycle alterations and ROS accumulation were assessed by flow cytometry. The expressions of p53, p21, p16, and Keap1 protein were detected by Western blotting. The Nrf2 translocation was monitored by immunofluorescence staining.

RESULTS

The findings revealed that FGE significantly restored UVA injury-induced cell viability, reduced the proportion of SA-β-GAL-positive cells, and increased the level of CoL-I secretion in a dose-dependent manner, where the main ingredients were chlorogenic acid, protocatechuic acid, salicylic acid, p-hydroxybenzoic acid, vanillic acid, ferulic acid, and caffeic acid. Further studies indicated that this phenolic acid mixture (PAM) could alleviate UVA-induced HFF-1 cell cycle arrest and protect the DNA from oxidative damage caused by UVA stimulation. Moreover, the expressions of cell cycle regulatory proteins p53, p21, and p16 and the accumulation of ROS were inhibited, the translocation of Nrf2 into the nucleus was promoted, the expression of Keap1 protein was inhibited, the activity of intracellular antioxidant indicators GSH, GPx, SOD, and CAT was enhanced, and the expression of malondialdehyde (MDA) was inhibited.

CONCLUSIONS

Collectively, our results demonstrated that FG phenolic acids protect DNA from oxidative damage by activating Nrf2 to safeguard the skin from photoaging induced by UVA stimulation.

Anti-wrinkle properties of Angelica gigas Nakai root extracts using mineral-rich water

BACKGROUND

Angelica gigas Nakai is used as an herbal pharmaceutical material in Korea.

AIMS

To investigate the anti-wrinkle effects of A. gigas Nakai root extracts (ARE) using mineral-rich water in in vitro and clinical trials.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The cell viability of ARE was evaluated using a water-soluble tetrazolium salt assay. After evaluating ARE's cytotoxicity, we used an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay kit to assess the effects of ARE on type I collagen in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). During a double-blinded in vivo clinical study, participants were randomly assigned to use the sample and placebo formulations for the left and right sides of their face over an 8-week period. We evaluated the anti-wrinkle properties of the formulations using PRIMOS Lite and a global photodamage score.

RESULTS

A. gigas Nakai root extracts cytotoxicity was evaluated in HDFs. We demonstrate that ARE increased type I collagen production by 40% at 50 μg/ml as compared with the control. The use of an ARE lotion significantly reduced the presence of crow's feet wrinkles in comparison with the use of the placebo after 8 weeks. Additionally, use of the ARE lotion led to decreased photodamage scores, indicating anti-wrinkle effects.

CONCLUSION

The use of ARE with mineral-rich water has anti-wrinkle effects in in vitro and clinical trials.

Antioxidant and in vitro cytogenotoxic properties of Amburana cearensis (Allemão) A.C.Sm. leaf extract

Amburana cearensis leaves have been used in folk medicine to treat respiratory diseases and inflammations. This study aimed to evaluate the biological potential of A. cearensis leaves by antioxidant and in vitro cytogenotoxic analyses of ethanolic crude extract (EE) and its fractions in healthy human cells. The EE was obtained by percolation, followed by fractionation using dichloromethane, cyclohexane, ethyl acetate (EtOAc), and methanol (MeOH) as organic solvents. Extract and all fractions were evaluated for their antioxidant potential by DPPH and reducing power tests. In vitro cytotoxic activity was determined in human peripheral blood mononuclear cells by MTT assay for the extract, EtOAc and MeOH fractions. In turn, the genotoxic activity was determined in human lymphocytes by the Cytokinesis Block Micronucleus assay only for the EtOAc fraction. Only EtOAc fraction was analyzed via gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry due to its higher biological activity. Considering the antioxidant potential, the EtOAc fraction was most effective in DPPH (EC₅₀ 43.37 µg/mL) and reducing power (EC₅₀ 89.80 µg/mL) assays. GC-MS analysis of the EtOAc fraction led to the identification of guaiacol, 2,3-dihydro-benzofuran, 2-methoxy-4-vinylphenol, isovanillic acid methyl ester, 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, and 4-(ethoxymethyl)-phenol. The EE (400-1000 µg/mL), EtOAc (≤150 µg/mL) and MeOH (50 and 150-600 µg/mL) fractions were not cytotoxic by MTT test. Additionally, the EtOAc fraction (100-400 µg/mL) did not induce significant genotoxic damage. Concentrations of the EtOAc fraction with antioxidant activity showed no cytotoxicity, nor genotoxicity potential, indicating them as a nontoxic natural antioxidant source.

Rhodophyta as Potential Sources of Photoprotectants, Antiphotoaging Compounds, and Hydrogels for Cosmeceutical Application

Seaweeds are macroscopic, multicellular, eukaryotic and photosynthetic organisms, and are a source of chemical diversity with powerful biological activities for diversified industrial applications including cosmeceuticals. Red seaweeds (Rhodophyta) are good sources of Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA) for photoprotectant and antiphotoaging compounds. In addition, Rhodophyta are also good sources for hydrogel compounds that are used widely in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries as gelling agents, moisturizers or for their antiphotoaging effects. Our survey and ongoing studies revealed that the biodiversity of Indonesian Rhodophyta is rich and is a treasure trove for cosmeceutical agents including MAA and hydrogels. This study delivers valuable information for identifying potential red seaweeds in screening and searching for cosmeceutical agents.

Synthesis and characterization of protocatechuic acid grafted carboxymethyl chitosan with oxidized sodium alginate hydrogel through the Schiff's base reaction

Excessive accumulation of free radicals is closely related to the occurrence and development of various neurodegenerative diseases. In this study, a novel protocatechuic acid grafted carboxymethyl chitosan with oxidized sodium alginate (PCA-g-CMCS/OSA) hydrogel was developed to maintain the oxidation-antioxidation balance activities. By optimizing the pH-soluble range (pH > 6.4) of CMCS, PCA was grafted onto CMCS skeleton via EDC/NHS, and then conjugated with aldehyde group of OSA to form Schiff's base hydrogel at physiological temperature. The gelation time can be adjusted rapidly within 1-3 min by controlling the content of OSA. The shaped hydrogel exhibited porous network structure with high porosity (>90 %), swelling ratio (2000-3000 %) and rheological property, which is beneficial to cell growth and proliferation. The conjugates preserved excellent DPPH and ABTS radicals scavenging abilities and adequate biodegradability within 5 weeks. Moreover, with the release of PCA monomer due to degradation of the PCA-g-CMCS/OSA, the hydrogel also exhibited excellent biocompatibility and protective effect on H2O2-induced oxidative damage in PC12 cells. These results suggested that the PCA-g-CMCS/OSA hydrogel would appear to be a more attractive candidate for potential biomedical applications such as antioxidant drug release and tissue engineering implant material.

Anti-aging effects and mechanisms of anthocyanins and their intestinal microflora metabolites

Aging, a natural and inevitable physiological process, is the primary risk factor for all age-related diseases; it severely threatens the health of individuals and places a heavy burden on the public health-care system. Thus, strategies to extend the lifespan and prevent and treat age-related diseases have been gaining increasing scientific interest. Anthocyanins (ACNs) are a subclass of flavonoids widely distributed in fruits and vegetables. Growing evidence suggests that ACNs delay aging and relieve age-related diseases. However, owing to the low bioavailability of ACNs, their gut metabolites have been proposed to play a critical role in mediating health benefits. In this review, we introduce the biological fate of ACNs after consumption and highlight ACNs metabolites (phenolic acids) from intestinal microorganisms. Additionally, ACNs and gut metabolites exhibit outstanding anti-aging ability in Caenorhabditis elegans, Drosophila melanogaster, and mouse models, probably associated with increasing antioxidation, anti-inflammation, protein homeostasis, antiglycation, mitochondrial function, and inhibition of insulin/IGF-1 signaling (IIS). ACNs and gut metabolites have great application prospects as functional foods and drugs to delay aging and manage age-related diseases. Further investigation should focus on the interaction between ACNs and gut microbiota, including clarifying the complex metabolic pathway and maximizing the health effects of ACNs.

Molecular mechanisms associated with the chemoprotective role of protocatechuic acid and its potential benefits in the amelioration of doxorubicin-induced cardiotoxicity: A review

Since its discovery in the 1960 s, doxorubicin (DOX) has constantly elicited the broadest spectrum of cancerocidal activity against human cancers. However, cardiotoxicity caused by DOX directly as well as its metabolites is a great source of concern over the continuous use of DOX in chemotherapy. While the exact mechanism of DOX-induced cardiotoxicity is yet to be completely understood, recent studies indicate oxidative stress, inflammation, and several forms of cell death as key pathogenic mechanisms that underpin the etiology of doxorubicin-induced cardiotoxicity (DIC). Notably, these key mechanistic events are believed to be negatively regulated by 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid or protocatechuic acid (PCA)-a plant-based phytochemical with proven anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-apoptotic properties. Here, we review the experimental findings detailing the potential ameliorative effects of PCA under exposure to DOX. We also discuss molecular insights into the pathophysiology of DIC, highlighting the potential intervention points where the use of PCA as a veritable chemoprotective agent may ameliorate DOX-induced cardiotoxicities as well as toxicities due to other anticancer drugs like cisplatin. While we acknowledge that controlled oral administration of PCA during chemotherapy may be insufficient to eliminate all toxicities due to DOX treatment, we propose that the ability of PCA to block oxidative stress, attenuate inflammation, and abrogate several forms of cardiomyocyte cell death underlines its great promise in the amelioration of DIC.

Photoprotective Effects of a Hyperoside-Enriched Fraction Prepared from Houttuynia cordata Thunb. on Ultraviolet B-Induced Skin Aging in Human Fibroblasts through the MAPK Signaling Pathway

Ultraviolet-B (UVB) irradiation causes skin damage via deleterious effects including oxidative stress, inflammation, and collagen degradation. The photoprotective effects of a hyperoside-enriched fraction obtained from Houttuynia cordata Thunb. (H. cordata) on the attenuation of UVB-induced skin aging in human fibroblasts were investigated. The solvent-partition technique was used to establish the hyperoside-enriched fraction of H. cordata (HcEA). The active compounds identified in the H. cordata extracts were hyperoside, quercitrin, chlorogenic acid, and rutin. With regard to the photoprotective effects of H. cordata on UVB-irradiated dermal fibroblasts, HcEA and hyperoside inhibited intracellular ROS production and inflammatory cytokine secretions (IL-6 and IL-8), while increasing collagen type I synthesis along with downregulating MMP-1 gene and protein expressions. Mechanistically, the hyperoside-enriched fraction obtained from H. cordata inhibited UVB-irradiated skin aging through regulation of the MAPK signaling pathway by attenuating the activation of JNK/ERK/c-Jun in human dermal fibroblasts. The hyperoside-enriched fraction of H. cordata exerted potent anti-skin aging properties against UVB exposure. The findings of this study can be applied in the cosmetics industry, as H. cordata extract can potentially be used in pharmaceutical or cosmetic formulations as a photoprotective or anti-skin aging agent.

Evaluation of Gallic Acid-Coated Gold Nanoparticles as an Anti-Aging Ingredient

Hyperglycemic environment-induced oxidative stress-mediated matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) plays a crucial role in the degradation of the extracellular matrix (ECM), which might contribute to premature skin aging. Synthesized, environmentally friendly gallic acid-coated gold nanoparticles (GA–AuNPs) have been evaluated as an anti-aging antioxidant. Their microstructure was characterized by transmission electron microscopy (TEM), which showed that GA–AuNPs are spherical when prepared at pH 11. Dynamic light scattering (DLS) analysis revealed that the average hydrodynamic diameter of a GA–AuNP is approximately 40 nm and with a zeta potential of −49.63 ± 2.11 mV. Additionally, the present data showed that GA–AuNPs have a superior ability to inhibit high glucose-mediated MMP-1-elicited type I collagen degradation in dermal fibroblast cells. Collectively, our data indicated that high-glucose-mediated ROS production was reduced upon cell treatment with GA–AuNPs, which blocked p38 MAPK/ERK-mediated c-Jun, c-Fos, ATF-2 phosphorylation, and the phosphorylation of NFκB, leading to the down-regulation of MMP-1 mRNA and protein expression in high glucose-treated cells. Our findings suggest that GA-AuNPs have a superior ability to inhibit high-glucose-mediated MMP-1-elicited ECM degradation, which highlights its potential as an anti-aging ingredient.

Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer Phenolic Acid Extract Alleviates Ultraviolet B-Irradiation-Induced Photoaging in a Hairless Mouse Skin Photodamage Model

Here, we evaluated the in vivo skin-protective effects of topical applications of Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer extract (PG2) and its phenolic acid- (PA-) based components against UVB-induced skin photoaging. PG2 or PA applied to skin of hairless mice after UVB-irradiation alleviated UVB-induced effects observed in untreated skin, such as increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), increased epidermal thickness, and decreased stratum corneum water content without affecting body weight. Moreover, PG2 and PA treatments countered reduced mRNA-level expression of genes encoding filaggrin (FLG), transglutaminase-1 (TGM1), and hyaluronan synthases (HAS1, HAS2, and HAS3) caused by UVB exposure and reduced UVB-induced collagen fiber degradation by inhibiting the expression of matrix metalloproteinase genes encoding MMP-1, MMP-2, and MMP-9. Meanwhile, topical treatments reduced cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) mRNA-level expression in photodamaged skin, leading to the inhibition of interleukin-1β (IL-1β) and interleukin-6 (IL-6) mRNA-level expression. Thus, ginseng phenolic acid-based preparations have potential value as topical treatments to protect skin against UVB-induced photoaging.

Date Fruit and Seed in Nutricosmetics

Many recent studies in the field of cosmetics have focused on organically sourced substances. Products made from organic materials are safe, high quality, cruelty-free, and more effective than those made from synthetic materials. Many organic compounds are known to be physiologically active in humans and have an extended storage capacity and long-lasting environmental effects. Agro-industrial waste has recently increased substantially, and the disposal of date palm waste, often performed in primitive ways such as burning, is harmful to the environment. Fruit processing industries generate over 10% of the total date seed waste daily, which could be converted into useful food products. Date fruit and seed are rich in sugar, vitamins, fiber, minerals, and phenolic compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that significantly promote human and animal health. This waste is rich in bioactive compounds and essential oils used in many kinds of food, medicine, and cosmetics. Most active cosmetic ingredients come from natural sources such as fruit, fish, and dairy, and recent research shows that date extract and seed oil help to reduce melanin, eczema, acne, and dry patches, while increasing skin moisture and elasticity. This review details the bioactive compounds and nutraceutical properties of date fruit and seed, and their use as cosmetic ingredients.

Research progress on intervention effect and mechanism of protocatechuic acid on nonalcoholic fatty liver disease

Nonalcoholic fatty liver disease (NAFLD) has become a surge burden worldwide due to its high prevalence, with complicated deterioration symptoms such as liver fibrosis and cancer. No effective drugs are available for NALFD so far. The rapid growth of clinical demand has prompted the treatment of NAFLD to become a research hotspot. Protocatechuic acid (PCA) is a natural secondary metabolite commonly found in fruits, vegetables, grains, and herbal medicine. It is also the major internal metabolites of anthocyanins and other polyphenols. In the present manuscript, food sources, metabolic absorption, and efficacy of PCA were summarized while analyzing its role in improving NAFLD, as well as the mechanism involved. The results indicated that PCA could ameliorate NAFLD by regulating glucose and lipid metabolism, oxidative stress and inflammation, gut microbiota and metabolites. It was proposed for the first time that PCA might reduce NAFLD by enhancing the energy consumption of brown adipose tissue (BAT). However, the PCA administration mode and dose for NAFLD remain inconclusive. Fresh insights into the specific molecular mechanisms are required, while clinical trials are essential in the future. This review provides new targets and reasoning for the clinical application of PCA in the prevention and treatment of NAFLD.

Downregulation of MMP1 expression mediates the anti-aging activity of Citrus sinensis peel extract nanoformulation in UV induced photoaging in mice

Aging of the skin is a complicated bioprocess that is affected by constant exposure to ultraviolet irradiation. The application of herbal-based anti-aging creams is still the best choice for treatment. In the present study, Citrus sinensis L. fruit peels ethanolic extract (CSPE) was formulated into lipid nanoparticles (LNPs) anti-aging cream. Eight different formulations of CSEP-LNPs were prepared and optimized using 2³ full factorial designs. In vivo antiaging effect of the best formula was tested in Swiss albino mice where photo-aging was induced by exposure to UV radiation. HPLC-QToF-MS/MS metabolic profiling of CSPE led to the identification of twenty-nine metabolites. CSPE was standardized to a hesperidin content of 15.53 ± 0.152 mg% using RP-HPLC. It was suggested that the optimized formulation (F7) had (245 nm) particle size, (91.065%) EE, and (91.385%) occlusive effect with a spherical and smooth surface. The visible appearance of UV-induced photoaging in mice was significantly improved after topical application on CSPE-NLC cream for 5 weeks, levels of collagen and SOD were significantly increased in CSPE- NLC group, while levels of PGE2, COX2, JNK, MDA, and elastin was reduced. Finally, The prepared anti-aging CSPE-NLC cream represents a safe, convenient, and promising skincare cosmetic product.

Deciphering the antitumoral potential of the bioactive metabolites from medicinal mushroom Inonotus obliquus

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The crude extracts of the medicinal mushroom Inonotus obliquus have been used as an effective traditional medicine to treat malicious tumors, gastritis, gastric ulcers, and other inflammatory conditions in Russia and most Baltic countries.

AIM OF THIS REVIEW

Deciphering the antitumoral potential of the bioactive metabolites from I. obliquus and addressing its possibility to be used as effective agents for tumor treatment, restoration of compromised immunity and protection of gastrointestinal damage caused by chemotherapy.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We analysed the current achievements and dilemma in tumor chemo- or immunotherapy. In this context, we searched the published literatures on I. obliquus covering from 1990 to 2020, and summarized the activities of antitumor, antioxidation, and immunomodulation by the polysaccharides, triterpenoids, small phenolic compounds, and hispidin polyphenols. By comparing the merits and shortcomings of current and traditional methodology for tumor treatment, we further addressed feasibility for the use of I. obliquus as an effective natural drug for tumor treatment and prevention.

RESULTS

The diverse bioactive metabolites confer I. obliquus great potential to inhibit tumor growth and metastasis. Its antitumor activities are achieved either through suppressing multiple oncogenic signals including but not limited to the activation of NF-κB and FAK, and the expression of RhoA/MMP-9 via ERK1/2 and PI3K/Akt signaling pathway. The antitumor activities can also be achieved by inhibiting tyrosinase activity via PAK1-dependent signaling pathway or altering lysosomal membrane permeabilization through blocking tubulin polymerization and/or disturbing energy metabolism through LKB1/AMPK pathway. In addition, the metabolites from I. obliquus also harbour the potentials to reverse MDR either through selective inhibition on P-gp/ABCB1 or MRP1/ABCC1 proteins or the induction of G2/M checkpoint arrest in tumor cells of chemoresistant phenotypes mediated by Nox/ROS/NF-kB/STAT3 signaling pathway. In addition to the eminent effects in tumor inhibition, the metabolites in I. obliquus also exhibit immunomodulatory potential to restore the compromised immunity and protect against ulcerative damage of GI tract caused by chemotherapy.

CONCLUSIONS

I. obliquus possesses the potential to reduce incidence of tumorigenesis in healthy people. For those whose complete remission has been achieved by chemotherapy, administration of the fungus will inhibit the activation of upstream oncogenic signals and thereby prevent metastasis; for those who are in the process of chemotherapy administration of the fungus will not only chemosensitize the tumor cells and thereby increasing the chemotherapeutic effects, but also help to restore the compromised immunity and protect against ulcerative GI tract damage and other side-effects induced by chemotherapy.

Blueberry Extracts as a Novel Approach to Prevent Ozone-Induced Cutaneous Inflammasome Activation

The World Health Organization estimates that 7 million people die every year due to pollution exposure. Among the different pollutants to which living organism are exposed, ozone (O₃) represents one of the most toxic, because its location which is the skin is one of the direct tissues exposed to the outdoor environment. Chronic exposure to outdoor stressors can alter cutaneous redox state resulting in the activation of inflammatory pathways. Recently, a new player in the inflammation mechanism was discovered: the multiprotein complex NLRP1 inflammasome, which has been shown to be also expressed in the skin. The topical application of natural compounds has been studied for the last 40 years as a possible approach to prevent and eventually cure skin conditions. Recently, the possibility to use blueberry (BB) extract to prevent pollution-induced skin toxicity has been of great interest in the cosmeceutical industry. In the present study, we analyzed the cutaneous protective effect of BB extract in several skin models (2D, 3D, and human skin explants). Specifically, we observed that in the different skin models used, BB extracts were able to enhance keratinocyte wound closure and normalize proliferation and migration responses previously altered by O₃. In addition, pretreatment with BB extracts was able to prevent ozone-induced ROS production and inflammasome activation measured as NRLP1-ASC scaffold formation and also prevent the transcripts of key inflammasome players such as CASP1 and IL-18, suggesting that this approach as a possible new technology to prevent cutaneous pollution damage. Our data support the hypothesis that BB extracts can effectively reduce skin inflammation and be a possible new technology against cutaneous pollution-induced damage.

Protection against UVB-Induced Photoaging by Nypa fruticans via Inhibition of MAPK/AP-1/MMP-1 Signaling

Ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation is major causative factor in skin aging. The aim of the present study was to investigate the protective effect of a 50% ethanol extract from Nypa fruticans (NF50E) against UVB-induced skin aging. The results indicated that NF50E exerted potent antioxidant activity (IC₅₀ = 17.55 ± 1.63 and 10.78 ± 0.63 μg/mL for DPPH and ABTS-radical scavenging activity, respectively) in a dose-dependent manner. High-performance liquid chromatography revealed that pengxianencin A, protocatechuic acid, catechin, chlorogenic acid, epicatechin, and kaempferol were components of the extract. In addition, the extract exhibited elastase inhibitory activity (IC₅₀ = 17.96 ± 0.39 μg/mL). NF50E protected against UVB-induced HaCaT cell death and strongly suppressed UVB-stimulated cellular reactive oxygen species generation without cellular toxicity. Moreover, topical application of NF50E mitigated UVB-induced photoaging lesions including skin erythema and skin thickness in BALB/C mice. NF50E treatment inhibited UVB-induced collagen degradation as well as MMP-1 and IL-1β expressions and significantly stimulated SIRT1 expression. Furthermore, the extract treatment markedly suppressed the activation of NF-κB and AP-1 (p-c-Jun) by deactivating the p38 and JNK proteins. Taken together, current data suggest that NF50E exhibits potent antioxidant potential and protection against photoaging by attenuating MMP-1 activity and collagen degradation possibly through the downregulation of MAPK/NF-κB/AP-1 signaling and SIRT1 activation.