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Diwoux A, Gabriel D, Bardel MH, Ben Khalifa Y, Billot PÉ. Neurophysiological approaches to exploring emotional responses to cosmetics: a systematic review of the literature. Front Hum Neurosci 2024; 18:1443001. [PMID: 39502789 PMCID: PMC11534817 DOI: 10.3389/fnhum.2024.1443001] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/03/2024] [Accepted: 10/07/2024] [Indexed: 11/08/2024] Open
Abstract
Introduction This systematic review explores the use of neurophysiological measurements to study emotional responses to cosmetic products. The aim is to evaluate existing literature on these measurements in cosmetics, identify the main findings, highlight methodological challenges, and propose new guidelines for future research. Method A systematic search focusing on neurophysiological measures to determine emotions induced by different cosmetic products was carried out in accordance with PRISMA guidelines. Results A total of 33 articles identified with the EBSCO database met the inclusion criteria. In all, 10 different measurement tools were used in these articles to assess the emotional effects of cosmetic products. Discussion This review emphasizes the complexity of interactions between cosmetics and emotional responses. It underscores the importance of future research with a more holistic approach that couples several physiological measurements. Among them, electrophysiological brain activity shows potential for enhancing understanding of emotional responses related to cosmetic products. Frontal asymmetry, particularly in the alpha frequency band, was often use and frequently linked to positive emotional states, although conflicting evidence exists. Additionally, cardiac activity, specifically the LF/HF ratio, emerges as a promising marker for differentiating between different cosmetic products. However, methodological heterogeneity, present challenges for replicability, generalizability, and complicate data interpretation.
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Affiliation(s)
- Audrey Diwoux
- Beauty Research and Performance Department, CHANEL Parfums Beauté, Pantin, France
- Université de Franche-Comté, INSERM, UMR 1322 LINC, Besançon, France
| | - Damien Gabriel
- Université de Franche-Comté, INSERM, UMR 1322 LINC, Besançon, France
- Centre d'Investigation Clinique, Inserm, CIC 1431, CHU, Besançon, France
- Plateforme de Neuroimagerie Fonctionnelle et Neuromodulation Neuraxess, Besançon, France
| | - Marie-Héloïse Bardel
- Beauty Research and Performance Department, CHANEL Parfums Beauté, Pantin, France
| | - Youcef Ben Khalifa
- Beauty Research and Performance Department, CHANEL Parfums Beauté, Pantin, France
| | - Pierre-Édouard Billot
- Université de Franche-Comté, INSERM, UMR 1322 LINC, Besançon, France
- Plateforme de Neuroimagerie Fonctionnelle et Neuromodulation Neuraxess, Besançon, France
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Hashimoto W, Kaneda S. A smartphone application for personalized facial aesthetic monitoring. Skin Res Technol 2024; 30:e13824. [PMID: 38978223 PMCID: PMC11230921 DOI: 10.1111/srt.13824] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/27/2024] [Accepted: 06/03/2024] [Indexed: 07/10/2024]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Methods available at home for capturing facial images to track changes in skin quality and evaluate skincare treatments are limited. In this study, we developed a smartphone camera application (app) for personalized facial aesthetic monitoring. MATERIALS AND METHODS A face alignment indicators (FAIN) system utilizing facial landmark detection, an artificial intelligence technique, to estimate key facial parts, was implemented into the app to maintain a consistent facial appearance during image capture. The FAIN system is composed of a fixed target indicator and an alignment indicator that dynamically changes its shape according to the user's face position, size, and orientation. Users align their faces to match the alignment indicator with the fixed target indicator, and the image is automatically captured when alignment is achieved. RESULTS We investigated the app's effectiveness in ensuring a consistent facial appearance by analyzing both geometric and colorimetric data. Geometric information from captured faces and colorimetric data from stickers applied to the faces were utilized. The coefficients of variation (CVs) for the L*, a*, and b* values of the stickers were higher compared to those measured by a colorimeter, with CVs of 14.9 times, 8.14 times, and 4.41 times for L*, a*, and b*, respectively. To assess the feasibility of the app for facial aesthetic monitoring, we tracked changes in pseudo-skin color on the cheek of a participant using skin-colored stickers. As a result, we observed the smallest color difference ∆Eab of 1.901, which can be considered as the experimentally validated detection limit using images acquired by the app. CONCLUSION While the current monitoring method is a relative quantification approach, it contributes to evidence-based evaluations of skincare treatments.
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Affiliation(s)
- Wataru Hashimoto
- Mechanical Engineering Program, Graduate School of Engineering, Kogakuin University, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, Japan
| | - Shohei Kaneda
- Mechanical Engineering Program, Graduate School of Engineering, Kogakuin University, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, Japan
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Yoon EJ, Kwon EH, Kim JH, Delacruz J, Symons TB, Lee S, Park D. Influence of cosmetic foundation cream on skin condition during treadmill exercise. J Cosmet Dermatol 2024; 23:1884-1890. [PMID: 38444348 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.16205] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/04/2023] [Revised: 01/11/2024] [Accepted: 01/22/2024] [Indexed: 03/07/2024]
Abstract
BACKGROUND There is a growing trend of individuals wearing cosmetics while participating in physical activities. Nonetheless, there remains a need for further understanding regarding the effects of makeup on the facial epidermis during exercise, given the existing knowledge gaps. PURPOSE This study aimed to evaluate the effects of a cosmetic foundation cream on skin conditions during physical activity. METHODS Forty-three healthy college students, 20 males (26.3 ± 1.5 years) and 23 females (23.1 ± 1.0 years), were enrolled in this study. Foundation cream was applied to participants on half of the face in two different areas (MT: makeup T zone and MU: makeup U zone). The other half of the face served as internal control (T: non-makeup T zone and U: non-makeup U zones). Skin levels of moisture, elasticity, pore, sebum, and oil were measured using a skin analysis device (Aramhuvis, Gyeonggi, Republic of Korea) before and after a 20-min treadmill exercise. Paired t-test and independent t-test were performed for skin condition measurements at pre- and postexercise. RESULTS The skin moisture levels in both the T and MT significantly increased after exercise (p < 0.05) (pre-T: 24.5 ± 1.3, post-T: 38.5 ± 3.5 and pre-MT: 18.7 ± 0.7, post-MT: 40.4 ± 4.8). Elasticity also significantly improved in both the T and MT (p < 0.05) (pre-T: 25.6 ± 1.3, post-T: 41.5 ± 3.5 and pre-MT: 20.0 ± 0.9, post-MT: 41.7 ± 3.7). The size of the pores in the T zone observed a significant increase after exercise (p < 0.05) (pre-T: 41.7 ± 2.1, post-T: 47.8 ± 2.4). The sebum levels in the T zone exhibited a reduction following physical activity, whereas there was a notable increase in sebum levels in the makeup zones (p < 0.05) (pre-MT: 2.4 ± 0.7, post-MT:4.2 ± 0.8 and pre MU 1.8 ± 0.34, post MU 4.9 ± 0.9). The oil level was increased in the non-makeup zones (pre-T: 6.1 ± 1.4, post-T: 11.8 ± 2.0 and pre-U: 7.3 ± 1.5, post-U: 11.9 ± 1.9; p < 0.05) and decreased in the makeup zones (pre-MT: 13.3 ± 1.9, post-MT: 7.4 ± 2.3 and pre-MU: 22.1 ± 2.4, post-MU: 3.2 ± 1.0; p < 0.05). CONCLUSIONS The findings suggest that using foundation cream during aerobic exercise can reduce skin oil, causing dryness. Additionally, makeup can clog pores and increase sebum production. Therefore, wearing makeup may not be recommended for people with dry skin conditions based on the results of the current study. This research offers important insights to the public, encouraging them to consider the possible consequences of using makeup while exercising.
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Affiliation(s)
- Eun-Jung Yoon
- Department of Counselling, Health, and Kinesiology, Texas A&M University-San Antonio, San Antonio, Texas, USA
- Department of Life Sports Educator, Kongju National University, Kongju, Korea
| | - Eun Hye Kwon
- Department of Counselling, Health, and Kinesiology, Texas A&M University-San Antonio, San Antonio, Texas, USA
| | - Joo Hyun Kim
- Department of Counselling, Health, and Kinesiology, Texas A&M University-San Antonio, San Antonio, Texas, USA
| | - Jesse Delacruz
- Department of Counselling, Health, and Kinesiology, Texas A&M University-San Antonio, San Antonio, Texas, USA
| | - T Brock Symons
- Department of Counselling, Health, and Kinesiology, Texas A&M University-San Antonio, San Antonio, Texas, USA
| | - Sukho Lee
- Department of Counselling, Health, and Kinesiology, Texas A&M University-San Antonio, San Antonio, Texas, USA
| | - Dongsun Park
- Department of Biology Education, Korea National University of Education, Cheongju, Korea
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Abstract
People with self-reported sensitive skin may reluctantly use performing anti-ageing skin care products as it could elicit skin discomfort. We thus aimed to design and test an anti-ageing skin care routine that is suitable for people reporting sensitive skin. Key principles for developing products for sensitive skin were applied and formulas were screened for their mildness in vitro using the Reconstructed Human Epidermis ET50 method. Anti-ageing efficacy and mildness was evaluated during a clinical study in China, with 33 female volunteers aged 40–65 years, with sensitive skin. The anti-ageing benefits were measured using Primos 3D, the cutometer and clinical evaluation. Hallmarks for sensitive skin such as skin hydration, skin barrier, skin redness and response to lactic acid were also measured. The ET50 method yielded values suggesting moderate to mild expected irritancy effect in vivo for most of them, and non-irritating effect for the serum. During the clinical study, no physical or functional signs of discomfort were reported with twice-daily usage of the routine. Instrumental evaluation of Wrinkle depth, skin elasticity/firmness, skin hydration, skin barrier and skin redness revealed improvement at 4 and 8 weeks. Clinical evaluation evidenced skin smoothness, skin suppleness and radiance improvements. The skin was less reactive to lactic acid stimuli, while the sensitive skin burden was lowered according to the dermatological quality of life index. Lastly, a separate investigation suggested the potential relief aspect of such routines to alleviate discomforts from mask wearing. With the right formulation design, the benefits of layering products from a routine can be made accessible to people with sensitive skin while simultaneously alleviating the burden of sensitive skin.
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Ma Y, Kwon KH. Changes in purchasing patterns in the beauty market due to Post-COVID-19: Literature review. J Cosmet Dermatol 2021; 20:3074-3079. [PMID: 34632711 PMCID: PMC8662129 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14357] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/20/2021] [Revised: 06/04/2021] [Accepted: 07/19/2021] [Indexed: 11/27/2022]
Abstract
Background With online purchases' skyrocketing due to COVID‐19, there has been a big change in the beauty products consumers' purchase. Aims The purpose of this paper was to review the literature focusing on changes in purchasing patterns in the beauty market after COVID‐19 pandemic. Methods This review paper is a literature review, and the method is a narrative review. Results The past and present purchasing of beauty products were rapidly changed. The cosmetics and many beauty products were increased purchasing rate due to marketing of Wanghong broadcasting. Also, the non–face‐to‐face market environment has expanded after COVID‐19. Conclusion As COVID‐19 pandemic changes consumer values and lifestyle, its role and function are changing and its purchasing patterns are altered.
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Affiliation(s)
- Youngsil Ma
- Division of Beauty Arts Care, Department of Practical Arts, Graduate School of Culture and Arts, Dongguk University, Seoul, South Korea.,LS COSMETIC Co, Incheon, South Korea
| | - Ki Han Kwon
- Division of Beauty Arts Care, Department of Practical Arts, Graduate School of Culture and Arts, Dongguk University, Seoul, South Korea
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Scieszko E, Budny E, Rotsztejn H, Erkiert-Polguj A. How has the pandemic lockdown changed our daily facial skin care habits? J Cosmet Dermatol 2021; 20:3722-3726. [PMID: 33751765 PMCID: PMC8242634 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14059] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/28/2021] [Revised: 02/22/2021] [Accepted: 03/01/2021] [Indexed: 12/02/2022]
Abstract
Background During the COVID‐19 pandemic, Poland implemented widespread closure of beauty and cosmetic services to control the virus spread. Aims The aim of this study was to investigate the impact of the SARS‐CoV‐2 pandemic on home face care of women and to analyze changes that have occurred in their daily habits. Patients/Methods An online survey was completed by 412 women living in Poland during the spring lockdown. Questions addressed changes in face care during the COVID‐19 pandemic. Results and conclusions Our questionnaire showed that during the lockdown, women were more interested in face skincare, more often followed the procedure of full home skincare. And after implementing the changes in skincare, they saw a good impact on their skin. The significance of the Internet also increased considerably, not only as a source of knowledge in the field of cosmetology but also as a thriving market selling cosmetic products.
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Affiliation(s)
- Emilia Scieszko
- Department od Cosmetology and Aesthetic Dermatology, Medical University of Lodz, Poland
| | - Emilian Budny
- Student Scientific Group at the Department of Head and Neck Cancer Surgery of the Medical University of Lodz, Poland
| | - Helena Rotsztejn
- Department od Cosmetology and Aesthetic Dermatology, Medical University of Lodz, Poland
| | - Anna Erkiert-Polguj
- Department od Cosmetology and Aesthetic Dermatology, Medical University of Lodz, Poland
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Kim MA, Jung YC, Bae J, Ha J, Kim E. Layering sunscreen with facial makeup enhances its sun protection factor under real-use conditions. Skin Res Technol 2021; 27:751-757. [PMID: 33660348 DOI: 10.1111/srt.13010] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/17/2020] [Revised: 12/29/2020] [Accepted: 01/25/2021] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND The proper application of sunscreen is important to ensure protection of the skin against ultraviolet (UV) damage. Sunscreens are used in various ways in real world situations, which alters their UV protection efficacy. In this study, we simulated typical consumer use of sunscreen, which is often sequentially covered with facial makeup, in a laboratory study. METHODS We compared the sun protection factors (SPF) of sunscreen and makeup products after consecutive layering of the products. RESULTS The SPF of each sunscreen and makeup product was dramatically lower than stated on the label upon application of a typical amount used by a consumer, which is lower than recommended. For high-SPF products, the drop in effective protection was proportionally greater than those for the low-SPF products upon application of lower doses. However, layering sunscreen and makeup products greatly increased the effective SPF compared with that achieved by single application of each product, even when the amount of each product used was below the recommended level. CONCLUSION Layering sunscreen with makeup may compensate for insufficient sunscreen application in real-life conditions by providing an additional source of UV protection and improving the homogeneity of coverage. Our results suggest that recommending consecutive application of sunscreen and makeup products may be a practical and useful approach to improving UV protection that would not require additional steps in the facial care routines of many individuals.
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Affiliation(s)
- Min Ah Kim
- AMOREPACIFIC Research and Development Center, Yongin, Korea
| | - Yu Chul Jung
- AMOREPACIFIC Research and Development Center, Yongin, Korea
| | | | | | - Eunjoo Kim
- AMOREPACIFIC Research and Development Center, Yongin, Korea
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Khmaladze I, Leonardi M, Fabre S, Messaraa C, Mavon A. The Skin Interactome: A Holistic "Genome-Microbiome-Exposome" Approach to Understand and Modulate Skin Health and Aging. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol 2021; 13:1021-1040. [PMID: 33380819 PMCID: PMC7769076 DOI: 10.2147/ccid.s239367] [Citation(s) in RCA: 25] [Impact Index Per Article: 6.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/30/2020] [Accepted: 11/26/2020] [Indexed: 12/13/2022]
Abstract
Higher demands on skin care cosmetic products for strong performance drive intense research to understand the mechanisms of skin aging and design strategies to improve overall skin health. Today we know that our needs and influencers of skin health and skin aging change throughout our life journey due to both extrinsic factors, such as environmental factors and lifestyle factors, as well as our intrinsic factors. Furthermore, we need to consider our microflora, a collection of micro-organisms such as bacteria, viruses, and fungi, which is a living ecosystem in our gut and on our skin, that can have a major impact on our health. Here, we are viewing a holistic approach to understand the collective effect of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging both reviewing how each of them impact the skin, but more importantly to identify molecular conjunction pathways of these different factors in order to get a better understanding of the integrated “genome-microbiome-exposome” effect. For this purpose and in order to translate molecularly the impact of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging, we built a digital model based on system biology using different bioinformatics tools. This model is considering both the positive and negative impact of our genome (genes, age/gender), exposome: external (sun, pollution, climate) and lifestyle factors (sleep, stress, exercise, nutrition, skin care routine), as well as the role of our skin microbiome, and allowed us in a first application to evaluate the effect of the genome in the synthesis of collagen in the skin and the determination of a suitable target for boosting pro-collagen synthesis. In conclusion, we have, through our digital holistic approach, defined the skin interactome concept, as an advanced tool to better understand the molecular genesis of skin aging and further develop a strategy to balance the influence of the exposome and microbiome to protect, prevent, and delay the appearance of skin aging signs and preserve good skin health condition. In addition, this model will aid in identifying and optimizing skin treatment options based on external triggers, as well as helping to design optimal treatments modulating the intrinsic pathways.
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Affiliation(s)
- Ia Khmaladze
- Skin Research Institute, Oriflame Cosmetics AB, Stockholm, Sweden
| | - Michele Leonardi
- Skin Research Institute, Oriflame Cosmetics AB, Stockholm, Sweden
| | - Susanne Fabre
- Skin Research Institute, Oriflame Cosmetics AB, Stockholm, Sweden
| | - Cyril Messaraa
- Research and Development, Oriflame Cosmetics Ltd, Bray, Ireland
| | - Alain Mavon
- Skin Research Institute, Oriflame Cosmetics AB, Stockholm, Sweden
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