Bioactive ingredients in Korean cosmeceuticals: Trends and research evidence

Bentonite in Korea: A Resource and Research Focus for Biomedical and Cosmetic Industries

This study provides an in-depth review of bentonite, focusing on its applications in Korea's biomedical and cosmetic sectors. It delves into bentonite's chemical properties, which make it a valuable resource in various industries, particularly in the health and beauty industries. We discuss bentonite's antimicrobial properties, showcasing its effectiveness against a wide range of pathogens and its potential as a biomedicine adjuvant to boost immune responses. Despite its benefits, the review also addresses the need for caution due to its possible side effects when used in human therapy. In the cosmetics industry, bentonite is prized for its ability to absorb impurities, making it a popular ingredient in products from leading brands. The review highlights the ongoing research and development efforts aiming to further explore bentonite's capabilities and applications, underlining the material's significant contribution to advancing Korea's innovation in the biomedical and cosmetic fields. This review suggests that with more research, bentonite's full potential can be unlocked, offering new opportunities for these industries.

Biological activities of gastropods secretions: snail and slug slime

Gastropods, a mollusk class including slugs and snails, represent an extraordinarily diverse and ecologically significant group of organisms featuring the largest class of invertebrates. They can be classified as aquatic and terrestrial animals having coiled shells, although some species have reduced or absent shells. Their unique body structure includes a muscular foot for locomotion, a visceral mass containing essential organs, and a distinct head region with sensory organs such as tentacles and eyes. They are used to secrete a complex mixture of glycoproteins, enzymes, peptides, mucus and other bioactive compounds, namely slime, which represents a tool to allow locomotion, protection, and interaction within different habitats. The biological activities of the slime have attracted considerable interest due to their diverse and potentially valuable properties ranging from defense mechanisms to potential therapeutic applications in wound healing, antimicrobial therapy, management of inflammation, and neurological disorders. This review aims at exploring the beneficial effects of snail and slug slime focusing, in particular, on the improvement of the biological processes underlying them. Continued exploration of the intricate components of these slimy secretions promises to discover new bioactive molecules with diverse applications in various scientific and industrial fields.

Biological properties of mucus from land snails (Lissachatina fulica) and freshwater snails (Pomacea canaliculata) and histochemical study of mucous cells in their foot

Background

Mucus derived from many land snails has been extensively utilised in medicine and cosmetics, but some biological activities of the mucus need to be well documented. Nevertheless, most mucus is obtained from land snails, while mucus from freshwater snails has yet to be attended.

Methods

This study aims to determine and compare mucus's antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities from the land snail Lissachatina fulica and the freshwater snail Pomacea canaliculata. ABTS, DPPH, reducing power and total antioxidant activity assays were used to evaluate the antioxidant capacity. Inhibition of nitric oxide production in lipopolysaccharide-activated RAW 264.7 cells was performed to determine the anti-inflammatory activity. Additionally, the histochemical analysis of mucous cells in each snail foot was conducted to compare the distribution of mucous cells and types of mucins using periodic acid-Schiff and Alcian blue staining.

Results

Mucus from L. fulica and P. canaliculata exhibited antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities in different parameters. L. fulica mucus has higher total antioxidant (44.71 ± 2.11 mg AAE/g) and nitric oxide inhibitory activities (IC50 = 9.67 ± 0.31 µg/ml), whereas P. canaliculata mucus has better-reducing power activity (43.63 ± 2.47 mg AAE/g) and protein denaturation inhibition (IC50 = 0.60 ± 0.03 mg/ml). Histochemically, both species' dorsal and ventral foot regions contained neutral and acid mucins in different quantities. In the dorsal region, the neutral mucins level in L. fulica (16.64 ± 3.46%) was significantly higher than that in P. canaliculata (11.19 ± 1.50%), while the acid mucins level showed no significant difference between species. Levels of both mucins in the ventral foot region of L. fulica (15.08 ± 3.97% and 10.76 ± 3.00%, respectively) were significantly higher than those of P. canaliculata (2.25 ± 0.48% and 2.71 ± 0.56%, respectively). This study revealed scientific evidence of the biological capacity of mucus from L. fulica and P. canaliculata as well as provided helpful information on the region of the foot which produces effective mucus.

Exploring the potential of Halomonas levan and its derivatives as active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations

Demand on natural products that contain biological ingredients mimicking growth factors and cytokines made natural polysaccharides popular in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Levan is the β-(2-6) linked, nontoxic, biocompatible, water-soluble, film former fructan polymer that has diverse applications in pharmacy and cosmeceutical industries with its moisturizing, whitening, anti-irritant, anti-aging and slimming activities. Driven by the limited reports on few structurally similar levan polymers, this study presents the first systematic investigation on the effects of structurally different extremophilic Halomonas levan polysaccharides on human skin epidermis cells. In-vitro experiments with microbially produced linear Halomonas levan (HL), its hydrolyzed, (hHL) and sulfonated (ShHL) derivatives as well as enzymatically produced branched levan (EL) revealed increased keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation (113-118 %), improved skin barrier function through induced expressions of involucrin (2.0 and 6.43 fold changes for HL and EL) and filaggrin (1.74 and 3.89 fold changes for hHL and ShHL) genes and increased type I collagen (2.63 for ShHL) and hyaluronan synthase 3 (1.41 for HL) gene expressions together with fast wound healing ability within 24 h (100 %, HL) on 2D wound models clearly showed that HL and its derivatives have high potential to be used as natural active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations.

Metabolic engineering to enhance the accumulation of bioactive flavonoids licochalcone A and echinatin in Glycyrrhiza inflata (Licorice) hairy roots

Echinatin and licochalcone A (LCA) are valuable chalcones preferentially accumulated in roots and rhizomes of licorice (Glycyrrhiza inflata). The licorice chalcones (licochalcones) are valued for their anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties and have been widely used in cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries. However, echinatin and LCA are accumulated in low quantities, and the biosynthesis and regulation of licochalcones have not been fully elucidated. In this study, we explored the potential of a R2R3-MYB transcription factor (TF) AtMYB12, a known regulator of flavonoid biosynthesis in Arabidopsis, for metabolic engineering of the bioactive flavonoids in G. inflata hairy roots. Overexpression of AtMYB12 in the hairy roots greatly enhanced the production of total flavonoids (threefold), echinatin (twofold), and LCA (fivefold). RNA-seq analysis of AtMYB12-overexpressing hairy roots revealed that expression of phenylpropanoid/flavonoid pathway genes, such as phenylalanine ammonia-lyase (PAL), chalcone synthase (CHS), and flavanone 3'-hydroxylase (F3'H), is significantly induced compared to the control. Transient promoter activity assay indicated that AtMYB12 activates the GiCHS1 promoter in plant cells, and mutation to the MYB-binding motif in the GiCHS1 promoter abolished activation. In addition, transcriptomic analysis revealed that AtMYB12 overexpression reprograms carbohydrate metabolism likely to increase carbon flux into flavonoid biosynthesis. Further, AtMYB12 activated the biotic defense pathways possibly by activating the salicylic acid and jasmonic acid signaling, as well as by upregulating WRKY TFs. The transcriptome of AtMYB12-overexpressing hairy roots serves as a valuable source in the identification of potential candidate genes involved in LCA biosynthesis. Taken together, our findings suggest that AtMYB12 is an effective gene for metabolic engineering of valuable bioactive flavonoids in plants.

Effect of Rice (Oryza sativa L.) Ceramides Supplementation on Improving Skin Barrier Functions and Depigmentation: An Open-Label Prospective Study

Ceramides plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function. Although foregoing evidence supported beneficial effects of topical ceramides for restoration of the skin barrier, studies on oral ceramides are extremely scarce, with most published data collected from in vivo and in vitro models. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate the efficacy of rice ceramides (RC) supplementation to improve skin barrier function and as a depigmenting agent through comprehensive clinical assessments. This study investigated the beneficial effects of orally administered RC supplementation in 50 voluntary participants. Skin hydration, firmness and elasticity, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), melanin index (MI), erythema index (EI), sebum production, pH, and wrinkle severity were assessed at baseline and during monthly follow-up visits. RC supplementation was found to significantly (p < 0.01) improve skin hydration, sebum production, firmness and elasticity, and wrinkle severity for three assessed areas, namely the left cheek, dorsal neck, and right inner forearm. Additionally, RC significantly (p < 0.01) reduced the rates of TEWL, levels of MI and EI. Analyses of data indicated that participants at older age were more responsive towards the effect of RC supplementation. Our findings suggest that RC supplementation can effectively improve skin barrier function, reduce wrinkle severity, and reduce pigmentation.

Up-to-Date Overview of the Use of Natural Ingredients in Sunscreens

The photoprotective skincare segment is in high demand to meet consumer concerns on UV-induced skin damage, with a recent trend towards sunscreen alternatives with a natural origin. In this study, the use of natural ingredients, either from terrestrial or marine origin, in a panel of 444 sunscreen commercial formulations (2021) was analyzed. Ingredients from terrestrial organisms represent the large majority found in the analyzed sunscreen formulations (48%), whereas marine ingredients are present only in 13% of the analyzed products. A deeper analysis regarding the most prevalent families of ingredients from terrestrial and marine organisms used as top ingredients is also presented, as well as their mechanisms of action. This study provides an up-to-date overview of the sunscreen market regarding the use of natural ingredients, which is of relevance for scientists involved in the development of new sunscreens to identify opportunities for innovation.

Zooceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients Derived from Animals

Many substances derived from animals are used as ingredients in the cosmetic industry and constitute a particular type of product: zooceuticals. The main ingredients used can come from insects, such as snail slime; land animals, such as lanolin; and marine animals, such as marine collagen. Today, they are used less than in the past for hygienic–sanitary, ethical, and ecological reasons. Moreover, some can give rise to irritative or allergic dermatitis. However, they still represent a fraction of the common ingredients in certain types of cosmetic products today.

Anti-ageing peptides and proteins for topical applications: a review

Skin ageing is a cumulative result of oxidative stress, predominantly caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS). Respiration, pollutants, toxins, or ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation produce ROS with 80% of skin damage attributed to UVA irradiation. Anti-ageing peptides and proteins are considered valuable compounds for removing ROS to prevent skin ageing and maintenance of skin health. In this review, skin ageing theory has been illustrated with a focus on the mechanism and relationship with anti-ageing peptides and proteins. The effects, classification, and transport pathways of anti-ageing peptides and proteins across skin are summarized and discussed. Over the last decade, several novel formulations and advanced strategies have been developed to overcome the challenges in the dermal delivery of proteins and peptides for skin ageing. This article also provides an in-depth review of the latest advancements in the dermal delivery of anti-ageing proteins and peptides. Based on these studies, this review prospected several semi-solid dosage forms to achieve topical applicability for anti-ageing peptides and proteins.

Covalently Crosslinked Pig Gastric Mucin Hydrogels Prepared by Radical-based Chain-Growth and Thiol-ene Mechanisms

Mucin, a high molecular mass hydrophilic glycoprotein, is the main component of mucus that coats every wet epithelium in animals. It is thus intrinsically biocompatible, and with its protein backbone and the o-glycosidic bound oligosaccharides, it contains a plethora of functional groups which can be used for further chemical modifications. In this study we introduce and compare chain-growth and step-growth (thiol-ene) free-radical crosslinked hydrogels prepared from commercially available pig gastric mucin (PGM) as cost-efficient and easily accessible alternative to the more broadly applied bovine submaxillary gland mucin (BSM). For this, PGM was functionalized with photoreactive acrylate groups or allylether-moieties, respectively. Whereas homopolymerization of acrylate functionalized polymers was performed, for thiol-ene crosslinking, the allylether functionalized PGM was cross-linked with thiol-functionalized hyaluronic acid (HA). Morphology, mechanical properties, and cell compatibility of both kinds of PGM hydrogels are characterized and compared. Furthermore, the biocompatibility of these hydrogels could be evaluated in cell culture experiments. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Advancing Discovery of Snail Mucins Function and Application

Mucins are a highly glycosylated protein family that are secreted by animals for adhesion, hydration, lubrication, and other functions. Despite their ubiquity, animal mucins are largely uncharacterized. Snails produce mucin proteins in their mucous for a wide array of biological functions, including microbial protection, adhesion and lubrication. Recently, snail mucins have also become a lucrative source of innovation with wide ranging applications across chemistry, biology, biotechnology, and biomedicine. Specifically, snail mucuses have been applied as skin care products, wound healing agents, surgical glues, and to combat gastric ulcers. Recent advances in integrated omics (genomic, transcriptomic, proteomic, glycomic) technologies have improved the characterization of gastropod mucins, increasing the generation of novel biomaterials. This perspective describes the current research on secreted snail mucus, highlighting the potential of this biopolymer, and also outlines a research strategy to fulfill the unmet need of examining the hierarchical structures that lead to the enormous biological and chemical diversity of snail mucus genes.

Susceptibility of cosmeceutical peptides to proteases activity: Development of dermal stability test by LC-MS/MS analysis

Recently, several peptides are used as active ingredients in topical cosmetic formulations, few information are available on their dermal stability against proteases. In this study, it was developed a simple and reliable assay to evaluate the stability of cosmeceutical peptides in skin homogenates. The quantification of studied peptides was performed by liquid chromatography coupled with a triple quadrupole mass spectrometer operating in tandem mass spectrometry mode (LC-MS/MS) and the conditions were tuned through energy resolved MS/MS (ERMS) experiments. The sample preparation procedure was carried out on rat skin homogenates by employing pal-KTTKS (reference peptide and the parameters that may affect the assay results were evaluated, including substrate concentration, dilution of skin homogenate, protein concentration and batch-to-batch variation of the homogenate. The optimized conditions were applied to check the degradation profile of pal-KTTKS in human skin samples and the obtained results were compared. Finally, the degradation profiles of SA1-III and pamSA1-III, recently described as cosmeceutical peptides, in human skin homogenate were evaluated. The results showed that proposed peptides are stable toward proteases for up to 8 h of incubation. Thanks to this characteristic, these peptides can be considered very interesting candidates as active ingredients for creams intended for a daily application.