A systematic review on the skin whitening products and their ingredients for safety, health risk, and the halal status

Moderated mediation role of ethnicity on natural skin care products purchasing intention model among multicultural consumers

The trends for sustainable lifestyle and marketing motivated natural product consumption, such as natural skin care products (NSCPs). Different personal, environmental, and sociocultural factors influence purchase intention (PI) for NSCPs. However, there is a lack of evidence on the role of consumers' ethnicity in the PI model. The present study investigated the moderated mediation role of ethnicity in the relationship between related factors, including environmental concern, subjective norms, health factor, Halal certificate, packaging design, past experience factor, price factor, and PI mediated by personal attitude. A web-based survey was utilized to capture quantitative data from a random sample of 330 multicultural consumer group participants. The results of the study indicated that consumers' ethnicity substantially moderated the mediation effect of personal attitude in the relationships between subjective norms, health factor, Halal certificate, packaging design, past experience factor, price factor, and PI in the model. The findings contributed to understanding of the factors that influenced the PI of consumers from diverse sociocultural contexts in the market for natural products. It contributed directly to natural product marketing and industry.

The in vitro and in vivo depigmentation activity of coenzyme Q0, a major quinone derivative from Antrodia camphorata, through autophagy induction in human melanocytes and keratinocytes

BACKGROUND

Coenzyme Q0 (CoQ0), a novel quinone derivative of Antrodia camphorata, has been utilized as a therapeutic agent (including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiangiogenic, antiatherosclerotic, and anticancer agents); however, its depigmenting efficiency has yet to be studied.

METHODS

We resolved the depigmenting efficiency of CoQ0 through autophagy induction in melanoma (B16F10) and melanin-feeding keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells and in vivo Zebrafish model. Then, MPLC/HPLC analysis, MTT assay, Western blotting, immunofluorescence staining, LC3 transfection, melanin formation, GFP-LC3 puncta, AVO formation, tyrosinase activity, and TEM were used.

RESULTS

CoQ0-induced autophagy in B16F10 cells was shown by enhanced LC3-II accumulation, ATG7 expression, autophagosome GFP-LC3 puncta, and AVOs formation, and ATG4B downregulation, and Beclin-1/Bcl-2 dysregulation. In α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells, CoQ0 induced antimelanogenesis by suppressing CREB-MITF pathway, tyrosinase expression/activity, and melanin formation via autophagy. TEM data disclosed that CoQ0 increased melanosome-engulfing autophagosomes and autolysosomes in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. CoQ0-inhibited melanogenesis in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells was reversed by pretreatment with the autophagy inhibitor 3-MA or silencing of LC3. Additionally, CoQ0-induced autophagy in HaCaT cells was revealed by enhanced LC3-II accumulation, autophagosome GFP-LC3 puncta and AVO formation, ATG4B downregulation, ATG5/ATG7 expression, and Beclin-1/Bcl-2 dysregulation. In melanin-feeding HaCaT cells, CoQ0 induced melanin degradation by suppressing melanosome gp100 and melanin formation via autophagy. TEM confirmed that CoQ0 increased melanosome-engulfing autophagosomes and autolysosomes in melanin-feeding HaCaT cells. Treatment with 3-MA reversed CoQ0-mediated melanin degradation in melanin-feeding HaCaT cells. In vivo study showed that CoQ0 suppressed endogenous body pigmentation by antimelanogenesis and melanin degradation through autophagy induction in a zebrafish model.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results showed that CoQ0 exerted antimelanogenesis and melanin degradation by inducing autophagy. CoQ0 could be used in skin-whitening formulations as a topical cosmetic application.

Heavy metal and microbial testing of selected cosmetic products in the Palestinian market

Excessive and continuous use of cosmetic products containing heavy metals can lead to harmful effects. International regulations mandate limited quantities of heavy metals contamination in cosmetic preparations to ensure consumer safety. This research aims to evaluate heavy metal and microbial contamination levels in selected cosmetic products available in the Palestinian market. We collected 35 samples randomly from 23 companies, representing four product types, and analyzed them for the presence of seven heavy metals: zinc (Zn), cadmium (Cd), lead (Pb), chromium (Cr), iron (Fe), copper (Cu), and arsenic (As) using an atomic absorption spectrometer. We also interviewed pharmacists who sold these cosmetics to assess their knowledge of allowed limits and toxic effects associated with increased heavy metal content in cosmetics. The results indicated that all tested products exceeded the allowed limit for Cd (9.5 ± 2.3 ppm), Cu (33.8 ± 9.2 ppm), and Zn (151.0 ± 7.4 ppm). However, none of the tested samples showed microbial contamination. These findings underscore the significant heavy metal contamination of cosmetics present in the Palestinian market. Thus, there is a pressing need to register and quality-test all cosmetic products sold in the Palestinian market and to raise the pharmacists' awareness and knowledge regarding heavy metals in cosmetics.

Experimental and theoretical studies on inhibition against tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis by antioxidant ergothioneine

Ergothioneine, a natural derivative of histidine with a thiol/thine tautomeric structure, exhibits exceptional antioxidant properties and inhibition activities on tyrosinase. In this study, enzyme kinetics experiments and chromatographic spectral analysis revealed that ergothioneine inhibited tyrosinase in a reversible and non-competitive manner, with an inhibition constant of 0.554 mg/mL (2.41 mM). As the concentration of ergothioneine increased, the extremely flexible loop structure of tyrosinase extended from 40.1 % to 41.0 %, effectively covering the active center or binding site. Theoretical molecular docking simulation results show that ergothioneine forms complexes with tyrosinase through hydrogen bonding and salt bridges in the active center of Cu ions. Additionally, it was observed that ergothioneine's antioxidant had a stronger reducing impact on dopaquinone, an intermediate in melanin production, than the effect of ascorbic acid at an equivalent concentration (0.5 mg/mL). Ergothioneine reduced the intracellular reactive oxygen species to lower levels than the control group without UVA radiation and regulated the proliferation and differentiation in B16-F10 melanocytes. Clinical trials have shown that a 0.1 % concentration of ergothioneine can effectively suppress melanin production in irradiated skin. The significant reduction in melanin index and an increase in the individual type angle (ITA°) degree were measured after 4 weeks. These results collectively suggest that ergothioneine may be a promising inhibitor of natural antioxidant tyrosinase. Furthermore, due to its safety and efficacy, ergothioneine could be considered one of the bioactive substances for further study on diseases related to melanin production and tyrosinase activity which is of great significance for the cosmetics, medicine and food industries.

Peptide OA-VI12 restrains melanogenesis in B16 cells and C57B/6 mouse ear skin via the miR-122-5p/Mitf/Tyr axis

Excessive melanogenesis leads to hyperpigmentation, which is one of the common skin conditions in humans. Existing whitening cosmetics cannot meet market needs due to their inherent limitations. Thus, the development of novel skin-whitening agents continues to be a challenge. The peptide OA-VI12 from the skin of amphibians at high altitude has attracted attention due to its remarkable anti light damage activity. However, whether OA-VI12 has the skin-whitening effect of inhibiting melanogenesis is still. Mouse melanoma cells (B16) were used to study the effect of OA-VI12 on cell viability and melanin content. The pigmentation model of C57B/6 mouse ear skin was induced by UVB and treated with OA-VI12. Melanin staining was used to observe the degree of pigmentation. MicroRNA sequencing, quantitative real-time PCR (qRT-PCR), immunofluorescence analysis and Western blot were used to detect the change of factor expression. Double luciferase gene report experiment was used to prove the regulatory relationship between miRNA and target genes. OA-VI12 has no effect on the viability of B16 cells in the concentration range of 1-100 μM and significantly inhibits the melanin content of B16 cells. Topical application of OA-VI12, which exerted transdermal potency, prevented UVB-induced pigmentation of ear skin. MicroRNA sequencing and double luciferase reporter analysis results showed that miR-122-5p, which directly regulated microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (Mitf), had significantly different expression before and after treatment with OA-VI12. Mitf is a simple helix loop and leucine zipper transcription factor that regulates tyrosinase (Tyr) expression by binding to the M-box promoter element of Tyr. qRT-PCR, immunofluorescence analysis and Western blot showed that OA-VI12 up-regulated the expression of miR-122-5p and inhibited the expression of Mitf and Tyr. The effects of OA-VI12 on melanogenesis inhibition in vitro and in vivo may involve the miR-122-5p/Mitf/tyr axis. OA-VI12 represents the first report on a natural amphibian-derived peptide with skin-whitening capacity and the first report of miR-122-5p as a target for regulating melanogenesis, thereby demonstrating its potential as a novel skin-whitening agent and highlighting amphibian-derived peptides as an underdeveloped resource.

Phenolic acids in Panax ginseng inhibit melanin production through bidirectional regulation of melanin synthase transcription via different signaling pathways

Background

Our previous investigation indicated that the preparation of Panax ginseng Meyer (P. ginseng) inhibited melanogenesis. It comprised salicylic acid (SA), protocatechuic acid (PA), p-coumaric acid (p-CA), vanillic acid (VA), and caffeic acid (CA). In this investigation, the regulatory effects of P. ginseng phenolic acid monomers on melanin production were assessed.

Methods

In vitro and in vivo impact of phenolic acid monomers were assessed.

Results

SA, PA, p-CA and VA inhibited tyrosinase (TYR) to reduce melanin production, whereas CA had the opposite effects. SA, PA, p-CA and VA significantly downregulated the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R), cycle AMP (cAMP), protein kinase A (PKA), cycle AMP-response element-binding protein (CREB), microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) pathway, reducing mRNA and protein levels of TYR, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TYRP1), and TYRP2. Moreover, CA treatment enhanced the cAMP, PKA, and CREB pathways to promote MITF mRNA level and phosphorylation. It also alleviated MITF protein level in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells, comparable to untreated B16F10, increasing the expression of phosphorylation glycogen synthase kinase 3β (p-GSK3β), β-catenin, p-ERK/ERK, and p-p38/p38. Furthermore, the GSK3β inhibitor promoted p-GSK3β and p-MITF expression, as observed in CA-treated cells. Moreover, p38 and ERK inhibitors inhibited CA-stimulated p-p38/p38, p-ERK/ERK, and p-MITF increase, which had negative binding energies with MC1R, as depicted by molecular docking.

Conclusion

P. ginseng roots' phenolic acid monomers can safely inhibit melanin production by bidirectionally regulating melanin synthase transcription. Furthermore, they reduced MITF expression via MC1R/cAMP/PKA signaling pathway and enhanced MITF post-translational modification via Wnt/mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling pathway.

Concern on Skin Lightening Product Safety: Level of Awareness and Associated Factors Among Female Users in Bahir Dar City, Ethiopia

Background

Most skin lightening products are composed of some toxic chemicals such as mercury and hydroquinone which are classified under critical ingredients which need evaluation. Consumption without sufficient awareness may lead to toxicities endangering skin health.

Objective

The aim of this study was to assess the level of awareness towards the side effects of skin lightening products and associated factors among females in Bahir Dar city, Ethiopia.

Methods

An institutional-based cross-sectional study design was conducted in Bahir Dar city from June 28 to August 28, 2022 among females that had been using skin whitening. Samples of 362 females were selected by using multistage sampling technique from selected drug retail outlets. The data was coded, cleaned, and analyzed by using SPSS version 26. The variables were analyzed through multiple regression in order to identify the associated factors towards the level of awareness on the side effects of skin lightening products.

Results

Only 42.7% of the respondents had a favorable level of awareness. The highly influencing factors for using skin lightening products were peer pressure (39.9%) and social media (37.4%). Nearly half of the users experienced side effects. Only 8.9% of the respondents know the active ingredients of the products. Level of education was found to have significant association with level of awareness (AOR = 7.66, 95% CI: (1.23, 47.59); P = 0.029).

Conclusion

Only less than half of women have favorable awareness towards skin lightening products they use. The significant association between educational level and level of awareness should be considered as an alternative intervention in addition to regulatory restrictions.

Determinants of consumer adoption of halal cosmetics: A systematic literature review

BACKGROUND

The global halal cosmetics market is projected to grow during the forecast period. However, the factors that influenced consumers in the world to opt for halal cosmetics remain ambiguous.

OBJECTIVES

The objective of this study was to understand the universal concept of halal cosmetics and a framework of critical points that influence consumers in purchasing halal cosmetic products.

METHOD

The method used was Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) Statement by using Web of Science and Scopus databases. This study extends the systematic literature review covering all variables in purchasing halal cosmetics as halal cosmetic is not simply a religious issue, but it is also an opportunity to increase sales and acquire a competitive advantage.

RESULTS

This study found 14 articles that mainly discussed the critical points related to religiosity and product factors, that is, ingredient, halal logo, and halal certification as the highest driver in influencing consumers to purchase halal cosmetics. Other related factors in this study are price, promotion, place, social factors, and characteristics of consumers. These factors should be taken into consideration as they provide a plus point and an extra edge to local or international manufacturers to tap the global markets for halal cosmetic products that cater to both Muslims and non-Muslims communities.

PRACTICAL IMPLICATIONS

Cosmetic manufacturers and marketers must ensure that their products suit the expectation of consumers as todays halalan and tayyiban products are being searched rather than branded products due to their cleanliness, safety, and hygienic.

ORIGINALITY/VALUE

This study is among the earliest study examining the factors of purchase intention in halal cosmetics using a systematic literature review method that integrates marketing stimulus (product, price, promotion, and place) and other stimuli (social, religious, and characteristics).

Ananas comosus Peels Extract as a New Natural Cosmetic Ingredient: Oil-in-Water (O/W) Topical Nano Cream Stability and Safety Evaluation

Ananas comosus peels (AcP) are among the agro-industrial biomasses contributing to a significant volume of waste in Malaysia. Thus, the AcP extract (AcPE) may prove useful for other applications, such as an ingredient in a nanocream for controlled delivery for dermal application. Therefore, this study aimed to develop an oil-in-water (O/W) nanocream using ingredients derived from the AcPE and test its stability alongside safety evaluation. The extract is a rich source of polyphenolic compounds viz., catechin, quercetin, and gallic acid. The study discovered that the optimized AcPE nano cream was stable against coalescence during the accelerated test but was influenced by Ostwald ripening over 6 weeks of storage at 4°C. Safety assessments affirmed the AcPE nano cream to be free of microbial contamination and heavy metals. The findings conveyed that the A. comosus nano cream is a good cosmetic ingredient and may contribute to the cosmeceutical industry's new and safe topical products.

Spreading of Dangerous Skin-Lightening Products as a Result of Colourism: A Review

The use of bleaching products can have a medical or cosmetic purpose; in the latter case, skin whitening is most widespread in countries where darker skin tones prevail and can be driven by psychosocial, cultural and economic reasons. Skin-whitening products containing highly toxic active ingredients (in particular mercury derivatives, hydroquinone and corticosteroids) are easily found on the market; the use of these depigmenting agents can be followed by a variety of adverse effects, with very serious and sometimes fatal complications, and is currently an emerging health concern in many countries. This article concisely discusses the reasons for the current prevalence of skin lightening products and provides an overview of the skin lightening agents that pose a threat to human health. The review also reports market surveillance data on the circulation of banned skin lighteners in Europe, obtained through the Safety Gate system.

Ethnobotanical Survey on Skin Whitening Prescriptions of Traditional Chinese Medicine in Taiwan

The increasing interest and demand for skin whitening products globally, particularly in Asia, have necessitated rapid advances in research on skin whitening products used in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM). Herein, we investigated 74 skin whitening prescriptions sold in TCM pharmacies in Taiwan. Commonly used medicinal materials were defined as those with a relative frequency of citation (RFC) > 0.2 and their characteristics were evaluated. Correlation analysis of commonly used medicinal materials was carried out to identify the core component of the medicinal materials. Of the purchased 74 skin whitening prescriptions, 36 were oral prescriptions, 37 were external prescriptions, and one prescription could be used as an oral or external prescription. After analysis, 90 traditional Chinese medicinal materials were obtained. The Apiaceae (10%; 13%) and Leguminosae (9%; 11%) were the main sources of oral and external medicinal materials, respectively. Oral skin whitening prescriptions were found to be mostly warm (46%) and sweet (53%), while external skin whitening prescriptions included cold (43%) and bitter (29%) medicinal materials. Additionally, mainly tonifying and replenishing effects of the materials were noted. Pharmacological analysis indicated that these medicinal materials may promote wound healing, treat inflammatory skin diseases, or anti-hyperpigmentation. According to the Spearman correlation analysis on interactions among medicinal materials with an RFC > 0.2 in the oral skin whitening prescriptions, Paeonia lactiflora Pall. (white) and Atractylodes macrocephala Koidz. showed the highest correlation (confidence score = 0.93), followed by Ziziphus jujuba Mill. (red) and Astragalus propinquus Schischkin (confidence score = 0.91). Seven medicinal materials in external skin whitening prescriptions with an RFC > 0.2, were classified as Taiwan qī bái sàn (an herbal preparation), including Angelica dahurica (Hoffm.) Benth. & Hook. f. ex Franch. & Sav., Wolfiporia extensa (Peck) Ginns, Bletilla striata (Thunb.) Rchb. f., Atractylodes macrocephala Koidz., Ampelopsis japonica (Thunb.) Makino, Paeonia lactiflora Pall. (white), and Bombyx mori Linnaeus. Skin whitening prescriptions included multiple traditional Chinese medicinal materials. Despite the long history of use, there is a lack of studies concerning skin whitening products, possibly due to the complex composition of traditional Chinese medicine. Further studies are required to assess the efficacy and safety of these traditional Chinese medicinal materials for inclusion in effective, safe, and functional pharmacological products.

The Use of Calcium Phosphates in Cosmetics, State of the Art and Future Perspectives

Calcium phosphates (CaPs) belong to a class of biomimetic materials widely employed for medical applications thanks to their excellent properties, such as biodegradability, biocompatibility and osteoinductivity. The recent trend in the cosmetics field of substituting potentially hazardous materials with natural, safe, and sustainable ingredients for the health of consumers and for the environment, as well as the progress in the materials science of academics and chemical industries, has opened new perspectives in the use of CaPs in this field. While several reviews have been focused on the applications of CaP-based materials in medicine, this is the first attempt to catalogue the properties and use of CaPs in cosmetics. In this review a brief introduction on the chemical and physical characteristics of the main CaP phases is given, followed by an up-to-date report of their use in cosmetics through a large literature survey of research papers and patents. The application of CaPs as agents in oral care, skin care, hair care, and odor control has been selected and extensively discussed, highlighting the correlation between the chemical, physical and toxicological properties of the materials with their final applications. Finally, perspectives on the main challenges that should be addressed by the scientific community and cosmetics companies to widen the application of CaPs in cosmetics are given.

Highly Sensitive and Ecologically Sustainable Reversed-Phase HPTLC Method for the Determination of Hydroquinone in Commercial Whitening Creams

Hydroquinone (HDQ) is a natural depigmenting agent, which is commonly used in skin-toning preparations. The safety and greenness of analytical methods of HDQ quantification were not considered in previous literature. Therefore, a highly sensitive and ecologically greener reversed-phase high-performance thin-layer chromatography (RP-HPTLC)-based assay was established for HDQ estimation in four different commercial whitening creams (CWCs). The binary ethanol–water (60:40, v·v−1) mixture was utilized as the green solvent system. The estimation of HDQ was carried out at 291 nm. The present RP-HPTLC-based assay was linear in the 20–2400 ng band−1 range. The present analytical method was highly sensitive based on the detection and quantification data. The other validation parameters, such as accuracy, precision, and robustness, were also suitable for the determination of HDQ. Maximum HDQ quantities were obtained in CWC A (1.23% w·w−1) followed by CWC C (0.81% w·w−1), CWC D (0.43% w·w−1), and CWC B (0.37% w·w−1). The analytical GREEnness (AGREE) score for the present analytical method was estimated as 0.91, indicating the excellent greener characteristics of the present RP-HPTLC assay. These results suggest that the present analytical method is highly sensitive and ecologically sustainable for the quantitation of HDQ in its commercial formulations.