A review of cosmetic skin delivery

Recent advances of electrospun strategies in topical products encompassing skincare and dermatological treatments

As the potential applications of electrospinning in healthcare continue to be explored, along with advancements in industrial-scale solutions and the emergence of portable electrospinning devices, some researchers have explored electrospinning technology in topical products, including its application in skincare, such as facial masks, beauty patches, sunscreen, and dermatological treatments for conditions like atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, skin cancer, etc. In this review, we first outline the fundamental principles of electrospinning and provide an overview of existing solutions for large-scale production and the components and functionalities of portable spinning devices. Based on the essential functionalities required for skincare products and the mechanisms and treatment methods for the aforementioned dermatological diseases, we summarize the potential advantages of electrospinning technology in these areas, including encapsulation, sustained release, large surface area, and biocompatibility, among others. Furthermore, considering the further commercialization and clinical development of electrospinning technology, we offer our insights on current challenges and future perspectives in these areas, including issues such as ingredients, functionality, residue concerns, environmental impact, and efficiency issues.

Hurdles in translating science from lab to market in delivery systems for Cosmetics: An industrial perspective

In recent decades, a sweeping technological wave has reshaped the global economic landscape. Fueled by the unceasing forces of digital innovation and venture capital investment, this transformative machine has left a significant mark across numerous economic sectors. More recently, the emergence of 'deep tech' start-ups, focusing on areas such as artificial intelligence, nanotechnology, and biotechnology, has infused a fresh wave of innovation into various sectors, including the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. This review explores the significance of innovation within the cosmetics sector, with a particular emphasis on delivery systems. It assesses the crucial process of bridging the gap between research and the market, particularly in the translation of nanotechnology into tangible real-world applications. With the rise of nanotechnology-based beauty ingredients, we can anticipate groundbreaking advancements that promise to surpass consumer expectations, ushering in a new era of unparalleled innovation in beauty products.

The Effect of Nanobubbles on Transdermal Applications

In the present work, a new method for dermal delivery using nanobubbles (NBs) is investigated. Oxygen NBs are generated in deionized water and used to produce cosmetic formulations with hyaluronic acid as an active ingredient. Nanobubbles result in the improvement of the effect and penetration of the active ingredient through Strat-M, a synthetic membrane that resembles human skin. Experiments conducted with the Franz Cell device confirm the greater penetration of the active ingredient into Strat-M due to NBs, compared to cosmetic formulations that do not contain NBs. The effect of NBs was further examined by measuring UV-Vis and FTIR spectra. A possible mechanism was outlined, too. It was also found that NBs do not change the pH or the FTIR spectrum of the cosmetic serum indicating non-toxicity.

Revealing the Beauty Potential of Grape Stems: Harnessing Phenolic Compounds for Cosmetics

Grape stems have emerged as a promising natural ingredient in the cosmetics industry due to their abundance of phenolic compounds, known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. These compounds have shown great potential in promoting skin health, fighting signs of aging, and shielding against environmental stressors. With high concentrations of resveratrol, flavonoids, and tannins, grape stems have garnered attention from cosmetic scientists. Research has indicated that phenolic compounds extracted from grape stems possess potent antioxidant abilities, effectively combating free radicals that accelerate aging. Moreover, these compounds have demonstrated the capacity to shield the skin from UV damage, boost collagen production, and enhance skin elasticity. Cosmetic formulations incorporating grape stem extracts have displayed promising results in addressing various skin concerns, including reducing wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots, leading to a more youthful appearance. Additionally, grape stem extracts have exhibited anti-inflammatory properties, soothing irritated skin and diminishing redness. Exploring the potential of grape stem phenolic compounds for cosmetics paves the way for sustainable and natural beauty products. By harnessing the beauty benefits of grape stems, the cosmetics industry can provide effective and eco-friendly solutions for consumers seeking natural alternatives. Ongoing research holds the promise of innovative grape stem-based formulations that could revolutionize the cosmetics market, fully unlocking the potential of these extraordinary botanical treasures.

Methodologies to Evaluate the Hair Follicle-Targeted Drug Delivery Provided by Nanoparticles

Nanotechnology has been investigated for treatments of hair follicle disorders mainly because of the natural accumulation of solid nanoparticles in the follicular openings following a topical application, which provides a drug "targeting effect". Despite the promising results regarding the therapeutic efficacy of topically applied nanoparticles, the literature has often presented controversial results regarding the targeting of hair follicle potential of nanoformulations. A closer look at the published works shows that study parameters such as the type of skin model, skin sections analyzed, employed controls, or even the extraction methodologies differ to a great extent among the studies, producing either unreliable results or precluding comparisons altogether. Hence, the present study proposes to review different skin models and methods for quantitative and qualitative analysis of follicular penetration of nano-entrapped drugs and their influence on the obtained results, as a way of providing more coherent study protocols for the intended application.

Delivery of Active Peptides by Self-Healing, Biocompatible and Supramolecular Hydrogels

Supramolecular and biocompatible hydrogels with a tunable pH ranging from 5.5 to 7.6 lead to a wide variety of formulations useful for many different topical applications compatible with the skin pH. An in vitro viability/cytotoxicity test of the gel components demonstrated that they are non-toxic, as the cells continue to proliferate after 48 h. An analysis of the mechanical properties demonstrates that the hydrogels have moderate strength and an excellent linear viscoelastic range with the absence of a proper breaking point, confirmed with thixotropy experiments. Two cosmetic active peptides (Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 and Palmitoyl tripeptide-5) were successfully added to the hydrogels and their transdermal permeation was analysed with Franz diffusion cells. The liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) analyses of the withdrawn samples from the receiving solutions showed that Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 permeated in a considerable amount while almost no transdermal permeation of Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 was observed.

Sensitive ex vivo human skin transdermal assay testing method with mass spectrometric analysis for cosmetics application

BACKGROUND

Cosmetics manufacturers are focused on cosmetic delivery systems into the skin, but the level of diffusion of the systems in the skin tissues is not well understood. The current methods, such as Franz diffusion, assess analyte diffusion in the whole skin or artificial membranes, which has limitations for understanding skin delivery systems.

AIMS

Our study aimed to create a transdermal delivery method which is based on dermal-epidermal separation of human skin, allowing us to assess each layer of skin separately for its efficacy.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

During the experiment, resveratrol was used as the target analyte by applying it to the skin and then separating it into dermis and epidermis. Each layer is treated individually and subjected to a high-resolution mass spectrometry analysis to detect resveratrol levels. As a result, the efficiency of resveratrol diffusion in the dermal and epidermal layers of the skin can be evaluated.

RESULTS

We found that resveratrol was detected in both the dermal and epidermal layers using our method.

CONCLUSIONS

Hence, we developed a sensitive method for transdermal delivery testing that can be used to evaluate skin delivery systems for cosmetic or pharmaceutical purposes.

Effects of Nanobubbles in Dermal Delivery of Drugs and Cosmetics

Dermal delivery, which delivers drugs and cosmetics through the skin, has attracted significant attention due to its non-invasive and simple administration compared with oral or injectable administration. However, delivery of the ingredients through the skin barrier is difficult because the primary function of the skin is to protect the human body by preventing the invasion of contaminants. Although various techniques have been developed to overcome skin barriers, chemical toxicity, complicated processes, and expensive equipment still remain as obstacles. Moreover, green chemistry, which minimizes or eliminates the use of toxic chemicals, is required in the cosmetic industry. Thus, the development of a new method for dermal delivery is required. In this study, we provide a new method for dermal delivery using nanobubbles (NBs). NBs generated in oil improve the delivery effect of the active ingredients through the high Brownian motion and charge-balancing effect. Franz cell experiments and depigmentation experiments using the B16F10 melanoma cells were conducted to confirm the enhanced delivery effects. The system using NBs will contribute to the advancement of the dermal delivery of drugs and cosmetics.

Cyclodipeptides: From Their Green Synthesis to Anti-Age Activity

Cyclodipeptides (CDPs) or diketopiperazines (DKPs) are often found in nature and in foodstuff and beverages and have attracted great interest for their bioactivities, biocompatibility, and biodegradability. In the laboratory, they can be prepared by green procedures, such as microwave-assisted cyclization of linear dipeptides in water, as performed in this study. In particular, five CDPs were prepared and characterized by a variety of methods, including NMR and ESI-MS spectroscopies and single-crystal X-ray diffraction (XRD), and their cytocompatibility and anti-aging activity was tested in vitro, as well as their ability to penetrate the different layers of the skin. Although their mechanism of action remains to be elucidated, this proof-of-concept study lays the basis for their future use in anti-age cosmetic applications.

Nanoencapsulation of Tea Catechins for Enhancing Skin Absorption and Therapeutic Efficacy

Tea catechins are a group of flavonoids that show many bioactivities. Catechins have been extensively reported as a potential treatment for skin disorders, including skin cancers, acne, photoaging, cutaneous wounds, scars, alopecia, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and microbial infection. In particular, there has been an increasing interest in the discovery of cosmetic applications using catechins as the active ingredient because of their antioxidant and anti-aging activities. However, active molecules with limited lipophilicity have difficulty penetrating the skin barrier, resulting in low bioavailability. Nevertheless, topical application is a convenient method for delivering catechins into the skin. Nanomedicine offers an opportunity to improve the delivery efficiency of tea catechins and related compounds. The advantages of catechin-loaded nanocarriers for topical application include high catechin loading efficiency, sustained or prolonged release, increased catechin stability, improved bioavailability, and enhanced accumulation or targeting to the nidus. Further, various types of nanoparticles, including liposomes, niosomes, micelles, lipid-based nanoparticles, polymeric nanoparticles, liquid crystalline nanoparticles, and nanocrystals, have been employed for topical catechin delivery. These nanoparticles can improve catechin permeation via close skin contact, increased skin hydration, skin structure disorganization, and follicular uptake. In this review, we describe the catechin skin delivery approaches based on nanomedicine for treating skin disorders. We also provide an in-depth description of how nanoparticles effectively improve the skin absorption of tea catechins and related compounds, such as caffeine. Furthermore, we summarize the possible future applications and the limitations of nanocarriers for topical delivery at the end of this review article.

The anti-aging activity of Lycium barbarum polysaccharide extracted by yeast fermentation: In vivo and in vitro studies

Lycium barbarum polysaccharide (LBP) is an important active substance in Lycium barbarum. In this study, LBP was extracted by the hot water method and yeast fermentation method to obtain products called LBP-W and LBP-Y, respectively. Both LBPs have a strong ability to scavenge DPPH, hydroxyl, and superoxide anion free radicals and have a total antioxidant capacity. Both LBPs prolong the lifespan of C. elegans under normal conditions, oxidative stress and heat stress and do not affect fertility, LBPs could prolong the lifespan of C. elegans by upregulating the expression of daf-16, sod-3 and hsp-16.2 genes, and LBP-Y is more efficacious. The molecular weight of the LBPs was characterized by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), and the results showed that LBP-Y is smaller and more uniform than LBP-W. The skin penetration experiment showed that the absorption effect of LBP-Y is better than that of LBP-W. These lines of evidence suggest that the yeast fermentation extraction of LBP produces better antioxidant and anti-aging effects than those obtained with the traditional hot water extraction, which is more suitable for obtaining raw materials with anti-aging functions that can potentially be used in the food and cosmetic industries.

Aluminium in cosmetics and personal care products

Usage of inorganic ingredients like aluminium salts in cosmetics and personal care products has been a concern for producers and consumers. Although aluminium is used to treat hyperhidrosis, some worries have been raised about aluminium's role in breast cancer, breast cyst and Alzheimer's disease. The human population is exposed to aluminium from vaccines, diet, and drinking water, but the frequent use of aluminium-based cosmetics might add additional local exposure. This paper reviews literature to determine if aluminium-based products may pose potential harm to the body. The dermal absorption of aluminium is not widely understood. It is not yet known whether aluminium can travel from the skin to brain to cause Alzheimer's disease. Aluminium may cause gene instability, alter gene expression or enhance oxidative stress, but the carcinogenicity of aluminium has not been proved yet. Until now, epidemiological researches were based on oral information, which lacks consistency, and the results are conflicting. Future studies should target real-life-based long-time exposure to antiperspirants and other aluminium-containing cosmetics and personal care products.

From Cosmetics to Innovative Cosmeceuticals—Non-Woven Tissues as New Biodegradable Carriers

Due to pollution and climate-change fear, further increased by the COVID19 pandemic, consumers are looking for body and mind health by the request of more effective and safe products, including the anti-aging skincare cosmeceuticals.. The term “cosmeceuticals” was coined in 1962 as a fusion of cosmetic and pharmaceutical to cover a new class of products able to achieve aesthetic and drug-like benefits. They not only improve the skin’s appearance, but also treat different dermatological conditions, through a physiological activity, shown by in vitro and in vivo studies. This new category of cosmetics should contain no recognized drugs, but nonetheless have medicinal value. Consumers, in fact, are looking for products able to regenerate the skin and maintain not only a youthful appearance together with well-ness and well-being, but preserving the environment also. Consequently, they are searching for cosmetics and food made with high-quality natural ingredients, packaged with biodegradable materials and realized by sustainable technologies, possibly at zero waste. Consumers, in fact, are afraid of the pollution and plastics invading lands and oceans, causing many frequent disasters on our planet. New and smart tissues and films, made by polysaccharides and natural active ingredients, are proposed as innovative cosmeceuticals. These non-woven tissues, embedded by micro/nano complexes of chitin and lignin encapsulating different active ingredients, could represent a new category of vehicles that are characterized for their high effectiveness and safeness. Moreover, they do not induce allergic nor sensitizing phenomena, being biodegradable; skin- and environmentally friendly; and free of preservatives, emulsifiers, colors, fragrances and any kind of chemicals. Last but not least, polysaccharides, chitin and lignin may be obtained from industrial and agro-forestry waste, safeguarding the natural raw materials for the future generations.