A systematic literature review on the current detection tools for authentication analysis of cosmetic ingredients

The genus Polygonum: An updated comprehensive review of its ethnomedicinal, phytochemical, pharmacological activities, toxicology, and phytopharmaceutical formulation

Polygonum is a plant genus that includes annual and perennial species and is found at various temperatures, from northern temperate regions to tropical and subtropical areas. The genus Polygonum has been used for centuries for various disorders, including hypertension, intestinal and stomach pain, dysuria, jaundice, toothaches, skin allergies, hemorrhoids, cardiac disorders, kidney stones, hemostasis, hyperglycemia, and others. Various databases, including Google Scholar, Scifinder, ScienceDirect, PubMed, Scopus, ResearchGate, and Web of Science, were utilized to collect pertinent scientific literature data. According to bibliographic studies, the Polygonum genus possesses various compounds from different families, including phenolic acids (gallic acid, caffeic acid, quinic acid, p-coumaric acid, ferulic acid, protocatechuic acid, chlorogenic acid, and many other compounds), flavonoids (quercetin, catechin, epicatechin, quercitrin, kaempferol, myricetin, etc.), tannins, stilbenes (polydatin and resveratrol), terpenes (α-pinene, β-caryophyllene and β-caryophyllene oxide, bisabolene, β-farnesene, etc.), fatty acids (decanoic acid, lauric acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, dodecanoic acid), polysaccharides, and others. Various chemical and biological activities (in vitro and in vivo), such as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anticancer, antitumor, anti-inflammatory, antidiabetic, antiparasitic, hepatoprotective, neuropharmacological, gastroprotective, diuretic, antipyretic, and others, have been described in several biological studies involving this species. An updated summary of Polygonum species and their ethnomedicinal, phytochemical, toxicological, pharmacological, and phytopharmaceutical formulations is necessary. Considering the numerous potentialities of the Polygonum species and their wide-ranging use, it is extremely essential to provide knowledge by compiling the accessible literature to identify the topics of intense investigation and the main gaps to better design future studies. The objective of this review is to give readers a better understanding, greater comprehension, and in-depth knowledge of the genus Polygonum's traditional applications, phytochemistry, pharmacology, toxicological features, and galenic formulation. Several species of this genus have been detailed in this review, including those that were frequently used in traditional medicine (P. minus, P. aviculare, P. hydropiper, P. cuspidatum, and P. multiflorum) and many of the genus' therapeutic species, like P. equisetiforme, which do not get enough attention.

Toward the eco-friendly cosmetic cleansing assisted by the micro-bubbly jet

While numerous types of chemical cosmetic cleansers have been presented, those with sensitive skin may still experience some irritation while using them. Moreover, the environmental issue of chemical agents has been documented repeatedly. To address these, we suggest the potential application of a micro-sized bubble-laden water jet to cleanse the cosmetics without (or less) using chemical detergents. We devised a venturi-type nozzle with a mesh and air holes capable of generating massive fine bubbles. By testing with the foundation and lip tint (known to be highly adhesive) coated on the synthetic leather and artificial skin surfaces, we measured that the cleansing performance of the bubbly jet is much better (even without the chemical agent) than the single-phase liquid jet. As a mechanism for enhanced removal, it is understood that the greater kinetic energy of the jet due to the acceleration of the effective liquid-air mixture flow and the direct bubble-cosmetic collisions play essential roles. We believe that the present results will spur the development of environment-friendly cleaning methods.

Towards halal pharmaceutical: Exploring alternatives to animal-based ingredients

Halal is a crucial concept for Muslim consumers regarding consumed products, including pharmaceutical ingredients, which are essential in modern medicine. To address the issue of using porcine-sourced ingredients in pharmaceuticals, it is essential to search for halal alternatives derived from poultry, animal by-products from meat processing, marine sources, and plants. However, the complexity of this problem is further compounded by the rapid advances in innovation and technology, which can lead to adulteration of ingredients derived from pigs. Other challenges include the sustainability of alternative materials, management of waste or by-products practice, halal awareness, certification, government policies, religious adherence of consumers, food suppliers, marketers, and purchasing of products. The importance of halal and non-halal problems, specifically in the context of pharmaceutical materials, is still rarely discussed, including alternatives derived from poultry, animal by-products, marine sources, and plants. Due to the increasing global population, there is a growing need to increase awareness and concern among Muslim consumers for halal products, including pharmaceuticals. Therefore, this research aimed to investigate the importance of halal and non-halal issues in pharmaceutical ingredients, the potential impact on the Muslim community, as well as opportunities and challenges in the search for alternative ingredients.

Advances on Hormones in Cosmetics: Illegal Addition Status, Sample Preparation, and Detection Technology

Owing to the rapid development of the cosmetic industry, cosmetic safety has become the focus of consumers' attention. However, in order to achieve the desired effects in the short term, the illegal addition of hormones in cosmetics has emerged frequently, which could induce skin problems and even skin cancer after long-term use. Therefore, it is of great significance to master the illegal addition in cosmetics and effectively detect the hormones that may exist in cosmetics. In this review, we analyze the illegally added hormone types, detection values, and cosmetic types, as well as discuss the hormone risks in cosmetics for human beings, according to the data in unqualified cosmetics in China from 2017 to 2022. Results showed that although the frequency of adding hormones in cosmetics has declined, hormones are still the main prohibited substances in illegal cosmetics, especially facial masks. Because of the complex composition and the low concentration of hormones in cosmetics, it is necessary to combine efficient sample preparation technology with instrumental analysis. In order to give the readers a comprehensive overview of hormone analytical technologies in cosmetics, we summarize the advanced sample preparation techniques and commonly used detection techniques of hormones in cosmetics in the last decade (2012-2022). We found that ultrasound-assisted extraction, solid phase extraction, and microextraction coupled with chromatographic analysis are still the most widely used analytical technologies for hormones in cosmetics. Through the investigation of market status, the summary of sample pretreatment and detection technologies, as well as the discussion of their development trends in the future, our purpose is to provide a reference for the supervision of illegal hormone residues in cosmetics.

Formulation of the Polysaccharide FucoPol into Novel Emulsified Creams with Improved Physicochemical Properties

Driven by the customers' growing awareness of environmental issues, the production of topical formulations based on sustainable ingredients is receiving widespread attention from researchers and the industry. Although numerous sustainable ingredients (natural, organic, or green chemistry-derived compounds) have been investigated, there is a lack of comparative studies between conventional ingredients and sustainable alternatives. In this study, olive oil (30 wt.%) and α-tocopherol (2.5 wt.%) containing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilized with the bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol were formulated envisaging their validation as cosmetic creams. After formula composition design by Response Surface Methodology (RSM), the optimized FucoPol-based emulsion was prepared with 1.5 wt.% FucoPol, 1.5 wt.% cetyl alcohol, and 3.0 wt.% glycerin. The resulting emulsions had an apparent viscosity of 8.72 Pa.s (measured at a shear rate 2.3 s^-1) and droplet size and zeta potential values of 6.12 µm and -97.9 mV, respectively, which are within the values reported for cosmetic emulsified formulations. The optimized formulation displayed the desired criterium of a thin emulsion system, possessing the physicochemical properties and the stability comparable to those of commercially available products used in cosmeceutical applications.

Moisturizer in Patients with Inflammatory Skin Diseases

As interest in skin increases, the cosmetic market is also growing. It is difficult to choose between the numerous types of basic cosmetics on the market. This article aims to provide advice and guidance on which products to recommend according to a patient’s skin condition. Appropriate application of a moisturizer attempts not only to improve the dryness, but also improve the skin’s natural barrier function to protect the skin from internal and external irritants to keep the skin healthy. Moisturizers consist of various ingredients, including occlusive agents, emollients, humectants, lipid mixture, emulsifiers, and preservatives. Pathophysiology of dry skin is also discussed to provide readers with the background they need to choose the right moisturizer for themselves. As moisturizers play an important role as adjuvant in the treatment of common skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, psoriasis, acne and rosacea, which type of moisturizer is appropriate for each disease was also dealt with. Basic cosmetics, especially moisturizers, should be recommended in consideration of the ingredients, effectiveness and safety of each product, and the skin condition of each patient.