Surface lipids as multifunctional mediators of skin responses to environmental stimuli

The cutaneous effects of androgens and androgen-mediated sebum production and their pathophysiologic and therapeutic importance in acne vulgaris

Background: The recognition of an association between the development of acne vulgaris (AV) and pubertal hormonal changes during adolescence dates back almost 100 years. Since these formative observations, a significant role of circulating hormones in the pathophysiology of AV and other cutaneous disorders has been established.Aims: This review article aims to provide an overview of clinical and preclinical evidence supporting the influences of androgens on the skin and their therapeutic importance in AV pathophysiology.Results: The cutaneous effects of hormones are attributable, to a large extent, to the influence of steroid hormones, particularly androgens, on sebocyte development and sebum production in both sexes. Androgen-mediated excess sebum production is implicated as a necessary early step in AV pathophysiology and is therefore considered an important therapeutic target in AV treatment. Although the local production and/or activity of androgens within the skin is believed to be important in AV pathophysiology, it has received limited therapeutic attention.Conclusions: We have summarized the current evidence in support of the therapeutic benefits of targeted hormonal treatment to decrease androgen-stimulated sebum production for the effective and safe treatment of AV in both male and female patients.

Unraveling the Potential of Vitamin B3-Derived Salts with a Salicylate Anion as Dermal Active Agents for Acne Treatment

This study is focused on the utilization of naturally occurring salicylic acid and nicotinamide (vitamin B3) in the development of novel sustainable Active Pharmaceutical Ingredients (APIs) with significant potential for treating acne vulgaris. The study highlights how the chemical structure of the cation significantly influences surface activity, lipophilicity, and solubility in aqueous media. Furthermore, the new ionic forms of APIs, the synthesis of which was assessed with Green Chemistry metrics, exhibited very good antibacterial properties against common pathogens that contribute to the development of acne, resulting in remarkable enhancement of biological activity ranging from 200 to as much as 2000 times when compared to salicylic acid alone. The molecular docking studies also revealed the excellent anti-inflammatory activity of N-alkylnicotinamide salicylates comparable to commonly used drugs (indomethacin, ibuprofen, and acetylsalicylic acid) and were even characterized by better IC50 values than common anti-inflammatory drugs in some cases. The derivative, featuring a decyl substituent in the pyridinium ring of nicotinamide, exhibited efficacy against Cutibacterium acnes while displaying favorable water solubility and improved wettability on hydrophobic surfaces, marking it as particularly promising. To investigate the impact of the APIs on the biosphere, the EC50 parameter was determined against a model representative of crustaceans─Artemia franciscana. The majority of compounds (with the exception of the salt containing the dodecyl substituent) could be classified as "Relatively Harmless" or "Practically Nontoxic", indicating their potential low environmental impact, which is essential in the context of modern drug development.

Mangiferin, a component of Mangifera indica leaf extracts, inhibits lipid synthesis in human sebocytes

Inhibition of lipid synthesis in sebocytes is essential for acne treatments. The effects of natural product-derived substances on lipid synthesis are unknown. This study investigated the effects of water extract of Mangifera indica leaves (WEML) on lipid synthesis in human sebocytes. Sebocyte differentiation in low serum conditions increased lipid accumulation and proliferator-activated receptor γ expression. WEML treatment significantly inhibited lipid accumulation and adipogenic mRNA expression in sebocytes. Mangiferin, a bioactive compound in WEML, also reduced lipid accumulation and adipogenic mRNA expression via the AKT pathway. Thus, WEML and mangiferin effectively inhibit lipid synthesis in sebocytes, showing promise for acne treatment.

Diesel Particulate Matter Permeation into Normal Human Skin and Intervention Using a Topical Ceramide Formulation

INTRODUCTION

Diesel particulate matter (DPM) emitted from diesel engines is a major source of air pollutants. DPM is composed of elemental carbon, which adsorbs organic compounds including toxic polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). The skin, as well as airways, is directly exposed to DPM, and association of atopic dermatitis, psoriasis flares, and premature skin aging with air pollutant levels has been documented. In skin, the permeation of DPM and DPM-adsorbed compounds is primarily blocked by the epidermal permeability barrier deployed in the stratum corneum. Depending upon the integrity of this barrier, certain amounts of DPM and DPM-adsorbed compounds can permeate into the skin. However, this permeation into human skin has not been completely elucidated.

METHODS

We assessed the permeation of PAHs (adsorbed to DPM) into skin using ex vivo normal (barrier-competent) organ-cultured human skin after application of DPM. Two major PAHs, 2-methylnaphthalene and triphenylene, and a carcinogenic PAH, benzo(a)pyrene, all found in DPM, were measured in the epidermis and dermis using liquid chromatography electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry. In addition, we investigated whether a topical formulation can attenuate the permeation of DPM into skin.

RESULTS

2-Methylnaphthalene, triphenylene, and benzo(a)pyrene were recovered from the epidermis. Although these PAHs were also detected in the dermis after DPM application, these PAH levels were significantly lower than those found in the epidermis. We also demonstrated that a topical formulation that has the ability to form more uniform membrane structures can significantly suppress the permeation of PAHs adsorbed to DPM into the skin.

CONCLUSION

Toxic compounds adsorbed by DPM can permeate even barrier-competent skin. Hence, barrier-compromised skin, such as in atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and xerosis, is even more vulnerable to air pollutants. A properly formulated topical mixture that forms certain membrane structures on the skin surface can effectively prevent permeation of exogenous substances, including DPM, into skin.

The heterogeneity and complexity of skin surface lipids in human skin health and disease

The outermost epidermal layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is not simply a barrier that safeguards skin integrity from external insults and invaders, it is also a delicately integrated interface composed of firm, essentially dead corneocytes and a distinctive lipid matrix. Together, the stratum corneum lipid matrix and sebum lipids derived from sebaceous glands give rise to a remarkably complex but quite unique blend of skin surface lipids that demonstrates tremendous heterogeneity and provides the skin with its indispensable protective coating. The stratum corneum lipid matrix is composed primarily of three major lipid classes: ceramides, non-esterified fatty acids and cholesterol, whereas sebum is a waxy mixture predominantly composed of acylglycerols, wax esters, non-esterified fatty acids, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol esters. The balance of these skin surface lipids in terms of their relative abundance, composition, molecular organisation and dynamics, and their intricate interactions play a crucial role in the maintenance of healthy skin. For that reason, even minuscule alterations in skin surface lipid properties or overall lipid profile have been implicated in the aetiology of many common skin diseases including atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, xerosis, ichthyosis and acne. Novel lipid-based interventions aimed at correcting the skin surface lipid abnormalities have the potential to repair skin barrier integrity and the symptoms associated with such skin diseases, even though the exact mechanisms of lipid restoration remain elusive.

Bioprocess conditions and regulation factors to optimize squalene production in thraustochytrids

Squalene is a widely distributed natural triterpene, as it is a key precursor in the biosynthesis of all sterols. It is a compound of high commercial value worldwide because it has nutritional, medicinal, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic applications, due to its different biological properties. The main source of extraction has been shark liver oil, which is currently unviable on a larger scale due to the impacts of overexploitation. Secondary sources are mainly vegetable oils, although a limited one, as they allow low productive yields. Due to the diversity of applications that squalene presents and its growing demand, there is an increasing interest in identifying sustainable sources of extraction. Wild species of thraustochytrids, which are heterotrophic protists, have been identified to have the highest squalene content compared to bacteria, yeasts, microalgae, and vegetable sources. Several studies have been carried out to identify the bioprocess conditions and regulation factors, such as the use of eustressors that promote an increase in the production of this triterpene; however, studies focused on optimizing their productive yields are still in its infancy. This review includes the current trends that also comprises the advances in genetic regulations in these microorganisms, with a view to identify the culture conditions that have been favorable in increasing the production of squalene, and the influences that both bioprocess conditions and applied regulation factors partake at a metabolic level.

Topical Application of M89PF Containing Vichy Mineralising Water and Probiotic Fractions Prevents Cutaneous Damage Induced by Exposure to UV and O3

Purpose

Exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation (UV) or ozone (O₃) results in stressed skin, leading to the alteration of the skin physical barrier and defence functions. In this work, the preventive benefit of a dermocosmetic, M89PF, containing Vichy mineralising water, probiotic fractions, antioxidant vitamins and hyaluronic acid, in the alteration of skin physical barrier and skin defence functions after exposure to O₃ and UV, alone or combined, was assessed.

Methods

Untreated and treated (M89PF) skin explants were exposed to O₃, to UV rays or to O₃+UV. Immunofluorescence was performed for skin barrier, oxidative stress, and inflammatory markers after one and four days of exposure to the pollutants.

Results

M89PF significantly (p≤0.05) prevented the decrease of the expression level of different skin barrier markers, and significantly (p≤0.05) prevented the induction of OxInflammatory markers and inflammasome components by UV, O_3, or both combined.

Conclusion

M89PF prevents skin barrier damage, as well as oxidative stress and inflammatory markers induced by exposome factors, such as UV, O_3, or both combined.

A comparison of the natural and groomed fingermark lipid composition of different donors using GC/MS

The lipid composition of natural fingermarks was studied and compared with the composition of groomed residue. Approximately 100 specimens were collected from 6 donors over three sessions (in October, December and July) and analysed using gas chromatography / mass spectrometry (GC/MS). The measured lipid content was generally lower and more variable in natural fingermarks than in groomed fingermarks. Some significant variability was noticed. Relative standard deviations were the highest between donors (generally above 100%) but were also relatively high within donor within a session (from 21% to 80%) and between sessions (from 34% to 126%). The fingermarks from one of the donors generally contained higher relative amounts of lipids in both groomed and natural residue compared to the others. All other fingermarks led to very variable amounts and did not allow classifying the other donors as constantly "good" or "poor" donors. Squalene was the major compound in all marks, particularly in groomed specimens. A correlation between squalene, cholesterol, myristic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearyl palmitoleate and pentadecanoic acid was highlighted. Oleic and stearic were also correlated together but generally more in natural than groomed marks. The obtained results may be particularly useful to better understand the detection mechanisms for techniques targeting lipids and to develop artificial fingermark secretions to further support the development of detection techniques.

Effects of solar radiations on stratum corneum hydration: Part I, protective role of skin surface lipids

This study used Raman spectroscopy to develop a new approach to evaluate the effects of solar radiation on the stratum corneum (SC). The method measures the SC's hydration and dehydration kinetics by calculating the vOH/vCH ratio to monitor the relative water content during the drying process. The study also investigated the role of skin surface lipids (SSLs) in protecting the SC from solar radiation. The SSLs film is a complex mixture of free fatty acids, triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, free and esterified cholesterols, that play a crucial role in the skin's barrier function. The results showed that solar radiation alters the water content and balance within the SC, and SSLs provide protection by acting as an optical filter by absorbing some of the energy of the solar light. This is confirmed by high temperature gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry analyses by revealing a decrease in specific lipids after irradiating the SSLs .

No skin off your back: the sampling and extraction of sebum for metabolomics

INTRODUCTION

Sebum-based metabolomics (a subset of "sebomics") is a developing field that involves the sampling, identification, and quantification of metabolites found in human sebum. Sebum is a lipid-rich oily substance secreted by the sebaceous glands onto the skin surface for skin homeostasis, lubrication, thermoregulation, and environmental protection. Interest in sebomics has grown over the last decade due to its potential for rapid analysis following non-invasive sampling for a range of clinical and environmental applications.

OBJECTIVES

To provide an overview of various sebum sampling techniques with their associated challenges. To evaluate applications of sebum for clinical research, drug monitoring, and human biomonitoring. To provide a commentary of the opportunities of using sebum as a diagnostic biofluid in the future.

METHODS

Bibliometric analyses of selected keywords regarding skin surface analysis using the Scopus search engine from 1960 to 2022 was performed on 12th January 2023. The published literature was compartmentalised based on what the work contributed to in the following areas: the understanding about sebum, its composition, the analytical technologies used, or the purpose of use of sebum. The findings were summarised in this review.

RESULTS

Historically, about 15 methods of sampling have been used for sebum collection. The sample preparation approaches vary depending on the analytes of interest and are summarised. The use of sebum is not limited to just skin diseases or drug monitoring but also demonstrated for other systemic disease. Most of the work carried out for untargeted analysis of metabolites associated with sebum has been in the recent two decades.

CONCLUSION

Sebum has a huge potential beyond skin research and understanding how one's physiological state affects or reflects on the skin metabolome via the sebaceous glands itself or by interactions with sebaceous secretion, will open doors for simpler biomonitoring. Sebum acts as a sink to environmental metabolites and has applications awaiting to be explored, such as biosecurity, cross-border migration, localised exposure to harmful substances, and high-throughput population screening. These applications will be possible with rapid advances in volatile headspace and lipidomics method development as well as the ability of the metabolomics community to annotate unknown species better. A key issue with skin surface analysis that remains unsolved is attributing the source of the metabolites found on the skin surface before meaningful biological interpretation.

Malassezia restricta-mediated Lipoperoxidation: A Novel Trigger in Dandruff

Dandruff is a common scalp disorder with multiple microbial and host-related factors contributing to its aetiology, including alterations in scalp sebum. Despite existing evidence that the yeast Malassezia restricta plays a key role in the onset of dandruff, the interplay of these factors is poorly understood. Recently, squalene monohydroperoxide and malondialdehyde were established as biomarkers of dandruff-afflicted scalp, highlighting the role of sebum lipoperoxidation in the triggering and maintenance of dandruff, although its mechanism of action is unknown. The current study provides evidence that M. restricta mediates sebum peroxidation, leading to production of squalene monohydroperoxide and malondialdehyde. Furthermore, in vitro data show that these lipoperoxidation products act on epidermal cells and alter the skin barrier. These results support the role of Malassezia restricta-induced lipoperoxides as triggers of dandruff, which suggests that blocking their production could be a novel anti-dandruff treatment approach.

Lipidomic profiling reveals metabolic signatures in psoriatic skin lesions

Psoriasis is a chronic immune-mediated inflammatory disease. Lipids play an important role in regulating the inflammatory response. However, the alteration of lipids involved in psoriasis particular in skin lesions remain unclear. Here, we performed the lipidomics to investigate lipid profiling in the skin lesions of the imiquimod-induced psoriasis-like dermatitis and psoriasis patients. The findings showed that ceramides phosphate (CerP) and ceramides were enriched in psoriatic lesions compared with controls from both psoriasis patients and psoriasis-like mouse model. Psoriasis patients were classified into two subtypes, the CC1 and CC2, by consensus clustering of these lipid signatures. The CC1 was characterized by the higher levels of CerP, uric acid, and more severe psoriasis, compared with CC2 subtype. Interestingly, ceramide-1-phosphate (C1P), dramatically enriched in CC1 subtype, facilitated imiquimod-induced psoriasis-like inflammatory responses. Mechanistically, C1P induced the expression of inflammatory factors and activated DNA replication and cell cycle signaling pathways in the primary keratinocytes. Inhibiting the production of C1P with ceramide kinase inhibitor effectively alleviated the imiquimod-induced psoriasis-like inflammation. Taken together, we described the landscape of lipids alteration and established lipids classification based on pattern of abundance of lipids in psoriatic skin lesions. Suppression of C1P pathway is a novel potential strategy for psoriasis treatment.

Influence of moisturizer containing licochalcone A, 1,2-decanediol, L-carnitine, and salicylic acid on facial skin lipidome among seborrhea participants

BACKGROUND

A better understanding of skin lipidomics and its alteration under treatment administration might offer therapeutic solutions for seborrhea.

AIMS

To quantitatively and qualitatively explore the lipid-modifying effect of the moisturizer containing licochalcone A, 1,2-decanediol, L-carnitine, and salicylic acid (LDCS) in seborrhea participants with and without acne vulgaris (AV).

PATIENTS/METHODS

We conducted an open-label explorative study on 20 seborrhea participants (10 AV and 10 non-AV). All participants applied LDCS for 8 weeks with the addition of benzoyl peroxide 2.5% gel and adapalene 0.1%/benzoyl peroxide 2.5% gel in AV. Skin surface lipid (SSL) assessments were performed biweekly, using Sebumeter® and lipid-absorbent Sebutapes® to collect forehead SSL for profile analysis by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS).

RESULTS

SSL amount significantly decreased since week 2 in AV (p-value = 0.0124) and week 6 in non-AV (p-value = 0.0098), respectively. Twenty-two important SSLs were annotated from GC-MS analysis, comprising 19 free fatty acids, cholesterol, squalene, and glycerol. There was a significant reduction in 5 and 13 lipid components in AV and non-AV groups, respectively.

CONCLUSION

LDCS, either alone or with topical acne treatment, demonstrated substantial sebusuppressive and lipid-modifying effects among seborrhea participants.

The Role of Probiotics in Skin Photoaging and Related Mechanisms: A Review

Solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is the primary pathogenetic factor in skin photoaging. It can disrupt cellular homeostasis by damaging DNA, inducing an inflammatory cascade, immunosuppression, and extracellular matrix (ECM) remodeling, resulting in a variety of dermatologic conditions. The skin microbiome plays an important role in the homeostasis and maintenance of healthy skin. Emerging evidence has indicated that highly diverse gut microbiome may also have an impact on the skin health, referred to as the gut-skin axis (GSA). Oral and topical probiotics through modulating the skin microbiome and gut-skin microbial interactions could serve as potential management to prevent and treat the skin photoaging by multiple pathways including reducing oxidative stress, inhibiting ECM remodeling, inhibiting the inflammatory cascade reaction, and maintaining immune homeostasis. In this review, the effects of oral and topical probiotics in skin photoaging and related mechanisms are both described systematically and comprehensively.

Dependence of Seasonal Dynamics in Healthy People's Circulating Lipids and Carbohydrates on Regional Climate: Meta-Analysis

We analyzed the seasonal dynamics of lipid profile, glucose, and insulin in healthy subjects from 29 studies conducted in 23 regions, located in different climate zones ranging from subarctic to tropical. Our meta-analysis showed that people have higher the level of TC (total cholesterol), LDL (low-density lipoprotein), HDL (high-density lipoprotein), FBG (fasting blood glucose) in winter than in summer regardless of gender. Regional climate had a significant impact on the seasonal dynamics of lipid profile and glucose. TC, HDL, FBG seasonal fluctuations were more prominent in a climate that had a marked increase in average monthly atmospheric pressure in winter compared with summer as opposed to a climate where atmospheric pressure did not vary significantly in winter and summer. In a climate with humid winters, TC seasonal changes were significantly greater than in the regions with humid summers, most likely due to LDL seasonal changes, since HDL seasonal dynamics with peaks in winter were more prominent in the regions with humid summers. The level of triglycerides had prominent seasonal dynamics with peak values in winter only in the regions with a large difference in winter and summer air temperatures. The results of our current and prior meta-analysis allow for the conclusion that the seasonal dynamics of circulating lipids and glucose are frequently linked to the seasonal dynamics of thyroid-stimulating hormone and hematocrit. Dependence of the seasonal changes in the biochemical parameters on annual fluctuations in air temperature, atmospheric pressure and relative humidity is more obvious than on photoperiod changes.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s12291-022-01064-6.

Effects of golden tomato extract on skin appearance-outlook into gene expression in cultured dermal fibroblasts and on trans-epidermal water loss and skin barrier in human subjects

SCOPE

Two experiments were performed to test the effects of rich tomato extract (Golden Tomato Extract, GTE) on human skin. In one experiment, the effects of this extract on gene expression in cultured human dermal fibroblasts were examined. In a second experiment, human subjects consumed the extract and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and aspects of skin appearance were monitored.

METHODS AND RESULTS

Primary human dermal fibroblasts in culture were treated with the extract. After six hours, RNA was extracted, and gene expression was examined using Affymetrix Human Clariom D array processing. For the clinical study, 65 human subjects consumed a capsule once a day for 16 weeks, and various skin parameters were assessed at predetermined time intervals. Among the genes upregulated by GTE are genes that augment innate immunity, enhance DNA repair, and the ability to detoxify xenobiotics. GTE significantly reduced TEWL in subjects who had high TEWL at baseline, but it had no effect on TEWL in subjects who had lower TEWL at baseline.

CONCLUSIONS

Golden tomato extract may provide benefits to the skin by enhancing innate immunity and other defense mechanisms in the dermis and by providing antioxidants to the skin surface to optimize TEWL and the appearance of the skin.

A Real-Time Detection Device for the Rapid Quantification of Skin Casual Sebum Using the Oil Red O Staining Method

The human skin sebum suggests that it (along with other epidermal surface lipids) plays a role in skin barrier formation, the moderation of cutaneous inflammation, and antimicrobial defense. Various methods have been developed for collecting and measuring skin sebum. We tested methods of detection using "color intensity", by staining the skin casual sebum. This process was conducted in three steps; first, the selection of materials for sebum collection; second, staining the collected sebum; third, the development of a device that can measure the level of stained sebum. A plastic film was used to effectively collect sebum that increased with the replacement time of the sebum. In addition, the collected sebum was stained with Oil Red O (ORO) and checked with RGB; as a result, the R² value was higher than 0.9. It was also confirmed that the correlation value was higher than 0.9 in the comparison result with Sebumeter^®, which is a common standard technology. Finally, it was confirmed that the R² value was higher than 0.9 in the detection value using the sensor. In conclusion, we have proven the proof of concept (PoC) for this method, and we would like to introduce an effective sebum measurement method that differs from the existing method.

Anti-Inflammatory and Antioxidant Chinese Herbal Medicines: Links between Traditional Characters and the Skin Lipoperoxidation “Western” Model

The relationship between lipid peroxidation and inflammation has been accepted as a paradigm in the field of topical inflammation. The underlying biochemical mechanisms may be summarised as unspecific oxidative damage followed by specific oxidative processes as the physio pathological response in skin tissues. In this experimental review we hypothesise that the characteristics attributed by Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) to herbal drugs can be linked to their biomolecular activities within the framework of the above paradigm. To this end, we review and collect experimental data from several TCM herbal drugs to create 2D-3D pharmacological and biochemical spaces that are further reduced to a bidimensional combined space. When multivariate analysis is applied to the latter, it unveils a series of links between TCM herbal characters and the skin lipoperoxidation “Western” model. With the help of these patterns and a focused review on their chemical, pharmacological and antioxidant properties we show that cleansing herbs of bitter and cold nature acting through removal of toxins—including P. amurense, Coptis chinensis, S. baicalensis and F. suspensa—are highly correlated with strong inhibition of both lipid peroxidation and eicosanoids production. Sweet drugs—such as A. membranaceus, A. sinensis and P. cocos—act through a specific inhibition of the eicosanoids production. The therapeutic value of the remaining drugs—with low antioxidant or anti-inflammatory activity—seems to be based on their actions on the Qi with the exception of furanocoumarin containing herbs—A. dahurica and A. pubescens—which “expel wind”. A further observation from our results is that the drugs present in the highly active “Cleansing herbs” cluster are commonly used and may be interchangeable. Our work may pave the way to a translation between two medical systems with radically different philosophies and help the prioritisation of active ingredients with specific biomolecular activities of interest for the treatment of skin conditions.

Atopic Dermatitis: The Fate of the Fat

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic and relapsing inflammatory skin disease in which dry and itchy skin may develop into skin lesions. AD has a strong genetic component, as children from parents with AD have a two-fold increased chance of developing the disease. Genetic risk loci and epigenetic modifications reported in AD mainly locate to genes involved in the immune response and epidermal barrier function. However, AD pathogenesis cannot be fully explained by (epi)genetic factors since environmental triggers such as stress, pollution, microbiota, climate, and allergens also play a crucial role. Alterations of the epidermal barrier in AD, observed at all stages of the disease and which precede the development of overt skin inflammation, manifest as: dry skin; epidermal ultrastructural abnormalities, notably anomalies of the lamellar body cargo system; and abnormal epidermal lipid composition, including shorter fatty acid moieties in several lipid classes, such as ceramides and free fatty acids. Thus, a compelling question is whether AD is primarily a lipid disorder evolving into a chronic inflammatory disease due to genetic susceptibility loci in immunogenic genes. In this review, we focus on lipid abnormalities observed in the epidermis and blood of AD patients and evaluate their primary role in eliciting an inflammatory response.

Novel Photoinduced Squalene Cyclic Peroxide Identified, Detected, and Quantified in Human Skin Surface Lipids

Skin surface lipids (SSLs) form the first barrier that protects the human organism from external stressors, disruption of the homeostasis of SSLs can result in severe skin abnormalities. One of the main causes of this disruption is oxidative stress that is primarily due to SSLs oxidation. Squalene (SQ), the most abundant lipid among SSLs, was shown to first undergo singlet molecular oxygen (1O2) oxidation to yield 6 SQ-monohydroperoxide (SQ-OOH) isomers as the primary oxidation products. However, due to the instability and lability of hydroperoxides, we found that when total SQ-OOH isomers are further photooxidized, they form a unique higher molecular weight secondary oxidation product. To generate the compound, we photooxidized total SQ-OOH isomers in the presence of ground state molecular oxygen (3O2), after its isolation and purification, we studied its structure using MS/MS, NMR, derivatization reactions, and chemical calculations. The compound was identified as 2-OOH-3-(1,2-dioxane)-SQ. Photooxidation of individual SQ-OOH isomers revealed that 6-OOH-SQ is the precursor of 2-OOH-3-(1,2-dioxane)-SQ and indicated the possibility of the formation of similar cyclic peroxides from each isomer following the same photoinduced chain reaction mechanism. An HPLC-MS/MS method was developed for the analysis of 2-OOH-3-(1,2-dioxane)-SQ and its presence on the skin was confirmed in SSLs of six healthy individuals. Its quantity on the skin correlated directly to that of SQ and was not inversely proportional to its precursor, indicating the possibility of its accumulation on the skin surface and the constant regeneration of 6-OOH-SQ from SQ's oxidation. In general, research on lipid cyclic peroxides in the human organism is very limited, and especially on the skin. This study shows for the first time the identification and presence of a novel SQ cyclic peroxide "2-OOH-3-(1,2-dioxane)-SQ" in SSLs, shedding light on the importance of further studying its effect and role on the skin.

Transcriptional Differences in Lipid-Metabolizing Enzymes in Murine Sebocytes Derived from Sebaceous Glands of the Skin and Preputial Glands

Sebaceous glands are adnexal structures, which critically contribute to skin homeostasis and the establishment of a functional epidermal barrier. Sebocytes, the main cell population found within the sebaceous glands, are highly specialized lipid-producing cells. Sebaceous gland-resembling tissue structures are also found in male rodents in the form of preputial glands. Similar to sebaceous glands, they are composed of lipid-specialized sebocytes. Due to a lack of adequate organ culture models for skin sebaceous glands and the fact that preputial glands are much larger and easier to handle, previous studies used preputial glands as a model for skin sebaceous glands. Here, we compared both types of sebocytes, using a single-cell RNA sequencing approach, to unravel potential similarities and differences between the two sebocyte populations. In spite of common gene expression patterns due to general lipid-producing properties, we found significant differences in the expression levels of genes encoding enzymes involved in the biogenesis of specialized lipid classes. Specifically, genes critically involved in the mevalonate pathway, including squalene synthase, as well as the sphingolipid salvage pathway, such as ceramide synthase, (acid) sphingomyelinase or acid and alkaline ceramidases, were significantly less expressed by preputial gland sebocytes. Together, our data revealed tissue-specific sebocyte populations, indicating major developmental, functional as well as biosynthetic differences between both glands. The use of preputial glands as a surrogate model to study skin sebaceous glands is therefore limited, and major differences between both glands need to be carefully considered before planning an experiment.

Revealing the Correlation between Altered Skin Lipids Composition and Skin Disorders

Human skin layers serve as a barrier between the body and the environment, by preventing water loss and blocking the entry of chemicals, allergens, and microbes. Recent data showed that skin lipids are vital ‘key players’ of several functions and mechanisms performing in the skin, such as, barrier function and microbiome composition. Abnormalities in lipid composition have been observed in inflammatory cutaneous diseases with a disrupted skin barrier. This review aims to demonstrate the fundamental role of keratinocytes, sebocytes, and microbiome-derived lipids in the maintenance of the skin barrier. Furthermore, it would reveal the correlation between altered skin lipids’ composition, microbiome, and the occurrence of certain dermatological disorders such as acne vulgaris, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and rosacea.

"Plurethosome" as Vesicular System for Cutaneous Administration of Mangiferin: Formulative Study and 3D Skin Tissue Evaluation

Human skin is dramatically exposed to toxic pollutants such as ozone. To counteract the skin disorders induced by the air pollution, natural antioxidants such as mangiferin could be employed. A formulative study for the development of vesicular systems for mangiferin based on phosphatidylcholine and the block copolymer pluronic is described. Plurethosomes were designed for mangiferin transdermal administration and compared to ethosome and transethosome. Particularly, the effect of vesicle composition was investigated on size distribution, inner and outer morphology by photon correlation spectroscopy, small angle X-ray diffraction, and transmission electron microscopy. The potential of selected formulations as vehicles for mangiferin was studied, evaluating encapsulation efficiency and in vitro diffusion parameters by Franz cells. The mangiferin antioxidant capacity was verified by the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl assay. Vesicle size spanned between 200 and 550 nm, being influenced by phosphatidylcholine concentration and by the presence of polysorbate or pluronic. The vesicle supramolecular structure was multilamellar in the case of ethosome or plurethosome and unilamellar in the case of transethosome. A linear diffusion of mangiferin in the case of ethosome and transethosomes and a biphasic profile in the case of plurethosomes indicated the capability of multilamellar vesicles to retain the drug more efficaciously than the unilamellar ones. The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory potential effect of mangiferin against pollutants was evaluated on 3D human skin models exposed to O3. The protective effect exerted by plurethosomes and transethosomes suggests their possible application to enhance the cutaneous antioxidant defense status.

Skin lipids in health and disease: A review

Our skin is the interface between us and our environment - a flexible barrier that has evolved for protection, immunity, regulation and sensation. Once regarded as inert, we now know that it is a dynamic environment. Skin lipids are crucial to the structure and function of skin. From deep in the hypodermis, through the ceramide-rich epidermis, to the lipids of the skin surface, there are a vast array of different lipids with important roles to play. This review firstly discusses the lipid composition of human skin and secondly, changes that have been found in skin lipid composition in different skin diseases. Further research into skin lipids facilitated by ever-improving methodologies will no doubt generate new knowledge, paving the way for diagnosis, prevention and treatment of skin disorders and diseases.

Overall renewal of skin lipids with Vetiver extract for a complete anti-ageing strategy

OBJECTIVE

Skin lipids are essential in every compartment of the skin where they play a key role in various biological functions. Interestingly, their role is central in the maintenance of hydration which is related to skin barrier function and in the skin structure through adipose tissue. It is well described today that skin lipids are affected by ageing giving skin sagging, wrinkles and dryness. Thereby, developing cosmetic actives able to reactivate skin lipids would be an efficient ant-ageing strategy. Due to the strong commitment of our scientists to innovate responsibly and create value, they designed a high value active ingredient named here as Vetiver extract, using a ground-breaking upcycling approach. We evidenced that this unique extract was able to reactivate globally the skin lipids production, bringing skin hydration and plumping effect for mature skin.

METHOD

In order to demonstrate the global renewal of lipids, we evaluated the lipids synthesis on cutaneous cells that produce lipids such as keratinocytes, sebocytes and adipocytes then on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We evaluated the expression of proteins involved in ceramides transport and barrier cornification. We then evaluated hydration and sebaceous parameters on a panel of mature volunteers.

RESULTS

We firstly demonstrated that Vetiver extract induced sebum production from human sebocytes cells lines but also improved its quality as observed by the production of specific antimicrobial lipids. Secondly, we demonstrated that Vetiver extract was able to restore skin barrier with the increase of skin lipids neosynthesis on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We also evidenced that Vetiver extract stimulated the lipids transport and epidermal cornification. Finally, Vetiver extract showed a significant effect on adipogenesis and maturation of adipocytes at in vitro and ex vivo models. We confirmed all these activities by showing that Vetiver extract improved sebum production and brought hydration through an increase of lipids content and their conformation. Vetiver extract induced an improvement of skin fatigue and a plumping effect by acting deeply on adipose tissue.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, we developed an active ingredient able to bring anti-ageing effect for mature skin by a global increase of skin lipids.

Evaluating the effect of ozone in UV induced skin damage

Air pollution represents one of the main risks for both environment and human health. The rapid urbanization has been leading to a continuous release of harmful manmade substances into the atmosphere which are associated to the exacerbation of several pathologies. The skin is the main barrier of our body against the external environment and it is the main target for the outdoor stressors. Among the pollutants, Ozone (O₃) is one of the most toxic, able to initiate oxidative reactions and activate inflammatory response, leading to the onset of several skin conditions. Moreover, skin is daily subjected to the activity of Ultraviolet Radiation which are well known to induce harmful cutaneous effects including skin aging and sunburn. Even though both UV and O₃ are able to affect the skin homeostasis, very few studies have investigated their possible additive effect. Therefore, in this study we evaluated the effect of the combined exposure of O₃ and UV in inducing skin damage, by exposing human skin explants to UV alone or in combination with O₃ for 4-days. Markers related to inflammation, redox homeostasis and tissue structure were analyzed. Our results demonstrated that O₃ is able to amplify the UV induced skin oxinflammation markers.

New Insights Into the Skin Microbial Communities and Skin Aging

Although it is well-known that human skin aging is accompanied by an alteration in the skin microbiota, we know little about how the composition of these changes during the course of aging and the effects of age-related skin microbes on aging. Using 16S ribosomal DNA and internal transcribed spacer ribosomal DNA sequencing to profile the microbiomes of 160 skin samples from two anatomical sites, the cheek and the abdomen, on 80 individuals of varying ages, we developed age-related microbiota profiles for both intrinsic skin aging and photoaging to provide an improved understanding of the age-dependent variation in skin microbial composition. According to the landscape, the microbial composition in the Children group was significantly different from that in the other age groups. Further correlation analysis with clinical parameters and functional prediction in each group revealed that high enrichment of nine microbial communities (i.e., Cyanobacteria, Staphylococcus, Cutibacterium, Lactobacillus, Corynebacterium, Streptococcus, Neisseria, Candida, and Malassezia) and 18 pathways (such as biosynthesis of antibiotics) potentially affected skin aging, implying that skin microbiomes may perform key functions in skin aging by regulating the immune response, resistance to ultraviolet light, and biosynthesis and metabolism of age-related substances. Our work re-establishes that skin microbiomes play an important regulatory role in the aging process and opens a new approach for targeted microbial therapy for skin aging.

Prevalence of Malassezia species on the skin of HIV-seropositive patients

Malassezia is a genus of lipophilic yeasts residing on the skin of warm-blooded animals. The correlation between specific species and their involvement in skin diseases has been well researched. However, only very few studies have investigated the distribution of Malassezia spp. on the healthy skin of patients infected with human immunodeficiency virus (HIV). The purpose of this work was to analyze whether the composition of Malassezia spp. isolated from the skin of the HIV-infected patients differs from that of healthy individuals. The study included a total of 96 subjects, who were divided into two equally sized groups: HIV-seropositive and HIV-seronegative. The specimens were collected from the subjects by swabbing four anatomical sites (face, chest, back, and scalp). Species were identified using phenotype-based methods, and the identification of strains isolated from the HIV-seropositive patients was confirmed by PCR sequencing of the rDNA cluster. Malassezia spp. were isolated from 33 (69%) HIV-seropositive patients and 38 (79%) healthy volunteers. It was found that men were much more likely to have their heads colonized with Malassezia spp. than women. The most prevalent species on the skin of both HIV-seropositive and HIV-seronegative individuals were Malassezia sympodialis, M. globosa, and M. furfur, albeit at different proportions in the two populations. The diversity of Malassezia spp. was the highest on the face of the HIV-seropositive patients (Shannon-Weiner Index H = 1.35) and lowest on the back of the healthy volunteers (H = 0.16). The phenotype- and molecular-based identification methods were congruent at 94.9%. It was observed a tendency that the HIV-seropositive patients had higher CD4+ cell counts, indicating higher colonization with Malassezia spp.

Blueberry Extracts as a Novel Approach to Prevent Ozone-Induced Cutaneous Inflammasome Activation

The World Health Organization estimates that 7 million people die every year due to pollution exposure. Among the different pollutants to which living organism are exposed, ozone (O3) represents one of the most toxic, because its location which is the skin is one of the direct tissues exposed to the outdoor environment. Chronic exposure to outdoor stressors can alter cutaneous redox state resulting in the activation of inflammatory pathways. Recently, a new player in the inflammation mechanism was discovered: the multiprotein complex NLRP1 inflammasome, which has been shown to be also expressed in the skin. The topical application of natural compounds has been studied for the last 40 years as a possible approach to prevent and eventually cure skin conditions. Recently, the possibility to use blueberry (BB) extract to prevent pollution-induced skin toxicity has been of great interest in the cosmeceutical industry. In the present study, we analyzed the cutaneous protective effect of BB extract in several skin models (2D, 3D, and human skin explants). Specifically, we observed that in the different skin models used, BB extracts were able to enhance keratinocyte wound closure and normalize proliferation and migration responses previously altered by O3. In addition, pretreatment with BB extracts was able to prevent ozone-induced ROS production and inflammasome activation measured as NRLP1-ASC scaffold formation and also prevent the transcripts of key inflammasome players such as CASP1 and IL-18, suggesting that this approach as a possible new technology to prevent cutaneous pollution damage. Our data support the hypothesis that BB extracts can effectively reduce skin inflammation and be a possible new technology against cutaneous pollution-induced damage.

The Delivery of α1-Antitrypsin Therapy Through Transepidermal Route: Worthwhile to Explore

Human α1-antitrypsin (AAT) is an abundant acute phase glycoprotein expressing anti-protease and immunomodulatory activities, and is used as a biopharmaceutical to treat patients with inherited AAT deficiency. The pleiotropic properties of AAT provide a rationale for using this therapy outside of inherited AAT deficiency. Therapy with AAT is administrated intravenously, yet the alternative routes are being considered. To examine the putative transepidermal application of AAT we used epiCS®, the 3D human epidermis equivalents reconstructed from human primary epidermal keratinocytes. We topically applied various concentrations of AAT protein with a constant volume of 50 µl, prepared in Hank's balance solution, HBSS, to epiCS cultured under bas\al condition or when culture medium supplemented with 100 µg/ml of a combined bacterial lipopolysaccharide (LPS) and peptidoglycan (PGN) mixture. AAT freely diffused across epidermis layers in a concentration and time-dependent manner. Within 18 h topically provided 0.2 mg AAT penetrated well the stratum corneum and localizes within the keratinocytes. The treatments with AAT did not induce obvious morphological changes and damages in keratinocyte layers. As expected, LPS/PGN triggered a strong pro-inflammatory activation of epiCS. AAT exhibited a limited capacity to neutralize the effect of LPS/PGN, but more importantly, it lowered expression of IL-18 and IL-8, and preserved levels of filaggrin, a key protein for maintaining the epidermal barrier integrity. Our findings suggest that the transepidermal route for delivering AAT is worthwhile to explore further. If successful, this approach may offer an easy-to-use therapy with AAT for skin inflammatory diseases.

The Enigma of Bioactivity and Toxicity of Botanical Oils for Skin Care

Botanical oils have a long history of traditional use and are routinely applied to skin care. The focus of this review is to contrast the functionality of skin oils versus the differential biological and toxicological effects of major plant oils, and to correlate them to their compositional changes. In total, over 70 vegetable oils were clustered according to their lipid composition to promote awareness of health practitioners and botanical product manufacturers for the safety and efficacy of oil-based interventions based on their fatty acid profiles. Since multiple skin disorders result in depletion or disturbance of skin lipids, a tailored mixture of multiple botanical oils to simultaneously maintain natural skin-barrier function, promote repair and regeneration of wounded tissues, and achieve corrective modulation of immune disorders may be required. As bioactive constituents of botanical oils enter the human body by oral or topical application and often accumulate in measurable blood concentrations, there is also a critical need for monitoring their hazardous effects to reduce the possible over-added toxicity and promote maximal normal tissue sparing. The review also provides a useful tool to improve efficacy and functionality of fatty acid profiles in cosmetic applications.

Redox regulation of cutaneous inflammasome by ozone exposure

Several pollutants have been shown to affect skin physiology, among which ozone (O₃) is one of the most toxic. Prolonged exposure to O₃ leads to increased oxidative damage and cutaneous inflammation. The correlation between O₃ exposure and inflammatory cutaneous conditions (atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne and eczema) has been already suggested, although the mechanism involved is still unclear. In the last few decades, a new multiprotein complex, the inflammasome, has been discovered and linked to tissue inflammation, including inflammatory skin conditions. The inflammasome activates inflammatory responses and contributes to the maturation of cytokines such as interleukin 1β (IL-1β) and interleukin 18. This complex is also responsive to reactive oxygen species (ROS), which plays a role in triggering the activation of the complex. On this basis it is possible hypothesize that the activation of the inflammasome could be the link between the inflammatory skin conditions associated to O3 exposure. In the present work, the ability of O3 to induce inflammasome activation was determined in different skin models, ranging from 2D (human keratinocytes) to 3D models in vitro and ex vivo. Results clearly showed that O₃ exposure increased both transcript and protein levels of the main inflammasome complex, such as ASC and caspase-1. Furthermore, by using both immunofluorescence and an ASC oligomerization assay the formation of the complex was determined together with increased secreted levels of both IL-18 and IL-1β. Of note is that H2O2 and to a less extent 4HNE (both considered the main mediators of O3 interaction with cellular membranes) were also able to activate skin inflammasome while the use of catalase prevents the activation. This study demonstrated that O3 can activate cutaneous inflammasome in a redox dependent manner suggesting a possible role of this new pathway in pollution induced inflammatory skin conditions.

An update on the microbiology, immunology and genetics of seborrheic dermatitis

The underlying mechanism of seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is poorly understood but major scientific progress has been made in recent years related to microbiology, immunology and genetics. In light of this, the major goal of this article was to summarize the most recent articles on SD, specifically related to underlying pathophysiology. SD results from Malassezia hydrolysation of free fatty acids with activation of the immune system by the way of pattern recognition receptors, inflammasome, IL-1β and NF-kB. M. restricta and M. globosa are likely the most virulent subspecies, producing large quantities of irritating oleic acids, leading to IL-8 and IL-17 activation. IL-17 and IL-4 might play a big role in pathogenesis, but this needs to be further studied using novel biologics. No clear genetic predisposition has been established; however, recent studies implicated certain increased-risk human leucocyte antigen (HLA) alleles, such as A*32, DQB1*05 and DRB1*01 as well as possible associations with psoriasis and atopic dermatitis (AD) through the LCE3 gene cluster while SD, and SD-like syndromes, shares genetic mutations that appear to impair the ability of the immune system to restrict Malassezia growth, partially due to complement system dysfunction. A paucity of studies exists looking at the relationship between SD and systemic disease. In HIV, SD is thought to be secondary to a combination of immune dysregulation and disruption in skin microbiota with unhindered Malassezia proliferation. In Parkinson's disease, SD is most likely secondary to parasympathetic hyperactivity with increased sebum production as well as facial immobility which leads to sebum accumulation.

Oily sensitive skin: A review of management options

BACKGROUND

Due to the ever-increasing demands for the personalized care, people seek for the tailored management according to the accurate identification of their skin type. The Baumann Skin Type Indicator, which was proposed by Leslie Baumann, is composed of four parameters: oily or dry, resistant or sensitive, pigmented or nonpigmented, and wrinkled or tight. Among these, oily sensitive skin experiences significant discomfort and resists ordinary treatment.

AIMS

In this article, we will review the clinical manifestations, underlying pathogenesis and recommendations on treatment options that may be utilized to help patients with oily sensitive skin.

PATIENTS/METHODS

Literature search was conducted using PubMed. The literature concerning Baumann Skin Type Indicator and oily sensitive skin type were considered.

RESULTS

Oily sensitive (OS)-type skin is a complex of oily and sensitive skin that causes significant discomfort and undergoes stubborn resistance to treatments. Sebum dysfunction and hypersensitivity may play a key role in the development of sensitive skin. Considering the pathogenesis of OS-type skin, treatment should focus on both seborrhea and hypersensitivity.

CONCLUSION

Clinicians can effectively treat the oily sensitive skin by understanding underlying pathogenesis of it. Further investigations are necessary to reach a consensus on the basic pathophysiology and optimal management guidelines for oily sensitive skin.

Adolescents' self perceived acne-related beliefs: from myth to science

BACKGROUND

Acne vulgaris is recognized as the third most prevalent skin disease worldwide, with highest prevalence among adolescents. Beliefs and perceptions of adolescents about acne are incoherent in the literature.

OBJECTIVES

To assess the most frequently reported acne-related beliefs in adolescents in order to focus on misconceptions and develop proper recommendations.

METHODS

A cross-sectional community-based study on representative sample of 2516 schoolchildren was conducted in six randomly selected secondary schools in Belgrade, Serbia. Only schoolchildren with present or past acne history participated. Factors believed to aggravate or ameliorate acne were recorded and analyzed, and the comparisons between girls and boys were evaluated using Pearson's chi-squared test.

RESULTS

A total of 1452 schoolchildren with acne participated, aged 14-18 years, among them 801 (55.2%) girls and 651 (44.8%) boys. Boys significantly more frequently believed that sweating, exercise, and dairy foods aggravate acne, whereas girls significantly more frequently blamed emotional stress, sweets, fatty foods, sun, and lack of sleep. The top four amelioration factors were as follows: comedone extraction, healthy diet, sun exposure, and increased water consumption. Acne regression was more frequently perceived to be linked with cigarettes in boys, but with sun exposure and weight loss in girls.

STUDY LIMITATIONS

The narrow age span of adolescents (14-18 years) and exclusion of acne-free adolescents are limitations due to study design.

CONCLUSION

This survey is part of the first epidemiological study on a representative sample in the Western Balkan region. The significance of the most frequent acne-related beliefs is discussed and myths about acne are highlighted.

Architecture of antimicrobial skin defense

The skin is the largest and the most exposed organ in the body and its defense is regulated at several anatomical levels. Here, we explore how skin layers, including the epidermis, dermis, adipose tissue, and skin appendages, as well as cutaneous microbiota, contribute to the function of skin antimicrobial defense. We highlight recent studies that reveal the differential and complementary responses of skin layers to bacterial, viral, and fungal infection. In particular, we focus on key soluble mediators in the layered skin defense, such as antimicrobial peptides, as well as on lipid antimicrobials, cytokines, chemokines, and barrier-maintaining molecules. We include our own evaluative analyses of transcriptomic datasets of human skin to map the involvement of antimicrobial peptides in skin protection under both steady state and infectious conditions. Furthermore, we explore the versatility of the mechanisms underlying skin defense by highlighting the role of the immune and nervous systems in their interaction with cutaneous microbes, and by illustrating the multifunctionality of selected antimicrobial peptides in skin protection.

Occasional acne; an acne variant

This article is about a common skin eruption that dermatologists face regularly in their clinics. It is a form of acne that patients frequently refer to as nightshifts acne, stress acne or airplane acne (after experiencing a prior occasion that might aggravate it). Physical or psychological stress is not the only causative factor, therefore we took into consideration of naming it based on its presentation irrespectively of the skin proneness to acne and self-limiting tendency, we name the entity as "occasional acne". This article will discuss the similarities and differences between this entity and other forms of acne, as well as different causative factors that are involved in the eruption. These factors vary individually whether single or multiple factors might provoke it; maladaptation driven by mental and/or physical stress, temporary imbalance of sebum lipids and nicotine effect, etc.

Skin Mucus Fatty Acid Composition of Gilthead Sea Bream (Sparus Aurata): A Descriptive Study in Fish Fed Low and High Fish Meal Diets

Terrestrial protein and lipid sources are commonly used as substitutes for marine fishery-derived raw ingredients in fish diets. However, their use is related with several side-effects on marine fish performance, health, or disease resistance. Physical barriers of the skin, gills, and gut constitute the primary defense mechanism of fish. Skin mucus mucosal mucins, water, proteins, ions, and lipids determine the physical, chemical, and protective characteristics of skin mucus. Very little is known about the influence of diet composition on fish skin mucus fatty acid profile. Gilthead sea bream skin mucus contained 10% of total lipids (TL), which consisted of 50–60% neutral (NL) and 40–50% polar lipids (PL) fractions. Σn−3 long chain polyunsaturated fatty acids (LC-PUFA) deposition was preferential in the NL fraction, whereas Σn−6LC-PUFA accumulation was similar in both lipid classes. Docosahexaenoic acid (DHA; 22:6n−3) was the main LC-PUFA stored in skin mucus (14% TL) in relation to eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA; 20:5n−3) (2–3% TL) and arachidonic acid (ARA; 20:4n−6) (2% TL). This study denotes the importance of DHA as component of skin mucus lipids compared to other essential fatty acids, such as EPA and ARA, as well as importance of maintaining an adequate Σn−3/ Σn−6 ratio, regardless of dietary intake.

Squalene Oxidation Induced by Urban Pollutants: Impact on Skin Surface Physico-Chemistry

The effect of urban pollutants on skin properties has been revealed through several epidemiological studies. However, comprehension of involved mechanisms remains undetermined. In addition, the impact of such stressors on skin surface properties, especially skin physico-chemistry, has not been investigated. Consequently, the present study aims to develop a new aging protocol able to highlight the impact of selected urban pollutants on a model sebaceous lipid: the squalene. Its quality has been followed during aging using LC-MS analysis. Results showed that the quality of the control solution containing only squalene remains stable during 45 days, whereas the quality of the solution containing squalene mixed with pollutants appears greatly altered, especially in the presence of heavy metals: a large amount of oxidation compounds was evidenced due to oxidation and dehydrogenation mechanisms. In addition, a physicochemical study was performed using a validated nonbiological skin model able to mimic skin physico-chemistry. Surface free energy components were calculated using contact angle measurements according to the Van Oss model. The application of degraded squalene significantly increased skin hydrophilic and monopolar behavior compared to the application of control squalene. Those modifications are essentially explained by the nature of squalene oxidation products. It must be noted from this study that squalene oxidation due to pollutants or due to high temperature did not lead to the same physicochemical consequences neither to the same oxidation products, as shown by thermal analysis. This study gives original and precious information to explain alterations induced by pollutants on skin surface properties, especially skin chemistry and physico-chemistry.

Damage to sebaceous gland and the efficacy of moisturizer after whole breast radiotherapy: a randomized controlled trial

Background

We conducted a randomized trial to evaluate the efficacy of heparinoid moisturization for radiation dermatitis. We report the time-course of sebum content after whole breast radiotherapy (WBRT) and the efficacy of heparinoid moisturizer.

Methods

Patients receiving adjuvant breast RT were randomly assigned into three groups; prophylaxis, post-WBRT and control groups. Patients used moisturizer on the irradiated breast from the beginning of RT in the prophylaxis group, 2 weeks post-RT in the post-WBRT group, and no moisturizer in the control group. Sebum content of the irradiated and non-irradiated breast was measured to assess sebaceous gland damage. Sebum composition was also analyzed.

Results

A total of 76 patients were analyzed; 30 in the post-WBRT group, 32 in the control group, 14 in the prophylaxis group. The sebum content in the irradiated breast significantly decreased after WBRT in the post-WBRT and control groups. The decrease was sustained in the control group. In the non-irradiated breast, sebum content also decreased after WBRT in the post-WBRT and control groups. After moisturizer application, sebum content by sebumeter returned to pre-RT level in the post-WBRT group, while the decrease was sustained in the control group. Sebum content measured by evaporative light scattering detector and sebumeter was similar in the control group, but the dissociation was observed after moisturizer application in the post-WBRT group. The proportion of wax esters decreased in the irradiated breast after WBRT.

Conclusions

Radiotherapy significantly reduced sebum content in both irradiated and non-irradiated breast, indicating that RT caused quantifiably persistent sebaceous gland damage in irradiated sites and the surrounding tissue. Combined with the results from our previous study, heparinoid moisturizer treatment effectively prevents water loss by retaining oil contents on the skin surface.

Trial registration

UMIN, UMIN000005532. Registered 1 April 2011.

Electronic supplementary material

The online version of this article (10.1186/s12885-019-5334-9) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

Crocin, a natural molecule with potentially beneficial effects against skin ageing

OBJECTIVE

Oxidative stress and low-grade chronic inflammation stand out as key features of physiological skin ageing. The aim of this study was to examine in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) grown in vitro, the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of crocin, a carotenoid glycoside responsible for the colour of saffron. Moreover, considering the newly emerging field of skin glycobiology and the presence of two gentiobiosyl moieties in crocin, the effect of crocin on NHEK glycosylation pathways was for the first time investigated.

METHODS

The anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities of crocin were evaluated by in vitro assays of antioxidation activities, ELISA and microarray analysis. The effect of crocin on keratinocyte glycobiology was evaluated by proprietary GLYcoDiag lectin technologies and microarray analysis.

RESULTS

Crocin is endowed with antioxidant potential against reactive oxygen species, protects squalene against UVA-induced peroxidation and prevents the release of inflammatory mediators. The expression of NF-kB-related genes and glycosylation-related genes is modulated in the presence of crocin.

CONCLUSION

Results could designate this molecule as a promising skin ageing prevention cosmetic agent. Of note, some of these effects could be mediated by protein O-glycosylation and interaction of crocin with osidic receptors of keratinocytes.

Structural and Biochemical Properties of Duckweed Surface Cuticle

The plant cuticle, which consists of cutin and waxes, forms a hydrophobic coating covering the aerial surfaces of all plants. It acts as an interface between plants and their surrounding environment whilst also protecting them against biotic and abiotic stresses. In this research, we have investigated the biodiversity and cuticle properties of aquatic plant duckweed, using samples isolated from four different locations around Hongze lake in Jiangsu province, China. The samples were genotyped using two chloroplast markers and nuclear ribosomal DNA markers, which revealed them as ecotypes of the larger duckweed, Spirodela polyrhiza. Duckweed cuticle properties were investigated by compositional analysis using Gas Chromatography coupled with Mass Spectroscopy (GC-MS) Flame Ionization Detector (GC-FID), and ultrastructural observation by cryo-Scanning Electron Microscopy (cryo-SEM). Cuticle compositional analysis indicated that fatty acids and primary alcohols, the two typical constituents found in many land plant cuticle, are the major duckweed wax components. A large portion of the duckweed wax fraction is composed of phytosterols, represented by campesterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol and their common precursor squalene. The cryo-SEM observation uncovered significant differences between the surface structures of the top air-facing and bottom water-facing sides of the plant fronds. The top side of the fronds, containing multiple stomata complexes, appeared to be represented by a rather flat waxy film sporadically covered with wax crystals. Underneath the waxy film was detected a barely distinguished nanoridge net, which became distinctly noticeable after chloroform treatment. On the bottom side of the fronds, the large epidermal cells were covered by the well-structured net, whose sections became narrower and sharper under cryo-SEM following chloroform treatment. These structural differences between the abaxial and adaxial sides of the fronds evidently relate to their distinct physiological roles in interacting with the contrasting environments of sunlight/air and nutrients/water. The unique structural and biochemical features of Spirodela frond surfaces with their rapid reproductive cycle and readily availability genome sequence, make duckweed an attractive monocot model for studying the fundamental processes related to plant protection against ultraviolet irradiation, pathogens and other environmental stresses.

Effects of atopic dermatitis and gender on sebum lipid mediator and fatty acid profiles

Skin disease alters cutaneous lipid mediator metabolism, and if skin secretions contain evidence of these changes, they may constitute useful clinical matrices with low associated subject burden. The influences of skin diseases on sebum lipid mediators are understudied. Here, sebum oxylipins, endocannabinoids, sphingolipids, and fatty acids were quantified from the non-lesional bilateral cheeks of subjects with and without quiescent atopic dermatitis (AD) using LC-MS/MS and GC-MS. AD decreased C36 [NS] and [NdS] ceramide concentrations. Compared to males, females demonstrated increased concentrations of oxylipin alcohols and ketones, and saturated and monounsaturated non-esterified fatty acids, as well as decreased concentrations of C42 [NS] and [NdS] ceramides. Additionally, contemporaneously collected sweat lipid mediator profiles were distinct, with sebum showing higher concentrations of most targets, but fewer highly polar lipids. Therefore, AD and gender appear to alter sebum lipid metabolism even in non-lesional skin of quiescent subjects.

Skin microbiota-host interactions

The skin is a complex and dynamic ecosystem that is inhabited by bacteria, archaea, fungi and viruses. These microbes-collectively referred to as the skin microbiota-are fundamental to skin physiology and immunity. Interactions between skin microbes and the host can fall anywhere along the continuum between mutualism and pathogenicity. In this Review, we highlight how host-microbe interactions depend heavily on context, including the state of immune activation, host genetic predisposition, barrier status, microbe localization, and microbe-microbe interactions. We focus on how context shapes the complex dialogue between skin microbes and the host, and the consequences of this dialogue for health and disease.

Efficacy of heparinoid moisturizer as a prophylactic agent for radiation dermatitis following radiotherapy after breast-conserving surgery: a randomized controlled trial

Background

The application of heparinoid moisturizer for 2 weeks following whole-breast radiotherapy (WBRT) was previously reported to significantly increase skin water content (WC) and help improve skin dryness and desquamation. The prospective open-label, randomized trial included an exploratory arm to investigate the preventive efficacy of heparinoid moisturizer for acute radiation dermatitis (ARD).

Methods

Between April 2011 and April 2013, patients receiving WBRT were assigned (1:2:2) to receive either: moisturizer for prophylaxis (group P), moisturizer starting 2 weeks after WBRT for treatment (group M), and no moisturizer (group C). This paper presents the results of comparison between the exploratory arm and no moisturizer group. Skin WC was measured prior to WBRT, on the last day of WBRT, and 2 weeks, 4 weeks and 3 months following WBRT. Signs and symptoms were also assessed.

Results

Comparing two groups, WC values were significantly higher in group P until 4 weeks following WBRT. At 2 weeks following WBRT, mean WC values in group P and C were 38.5 ± 6.1 arbitrary units (a.u.) and 30.2 ± 7.8 a.u., respectively (P < 0.001). In group C, dryness was more severe at 2 and 4 weeks following WBRT and desquamation more severe until 3 months following WBRT. However, the erythema score showed no difference between the two groups. Regarding symptoms, group C pain scores on the last day of WBRT were significantly higher than in group P (P < 0.030).

Conclusions

The preventive application of heparinoid moisturizer has the potential of reducing skin desquamation and dryness in patients receiving WBRT.