Effects of solar radiations on stratum corneum hydration: Part I, protective role of skin surface lipids

This study used Raman spectroscopy to develop a new approach to evaluate the effects of solar radiation on the stratum corneum (SC). The method measures the SC's hydration and dehydration kinetics by calculating the vOH/vCH ratio to monitor the relative water content during the drying process. The study also investigated the role of skin surface lipids (SSLs) in protecting the SC from solar radiation. The SSLs film is a complex mixture of free fatty acids, triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, free and esterified cholesterols, that play a crucial role in the skin's barrier function. The results showed that solar radiation alters the water content and balance within the SC, and SSLs provide protection by acting as an optical filter by absorbing some of the energy of the solar light. This is confirmed by high temperature gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry analyses by revealing a decrease in specific lipids after irradiating the SSLs .

Formulation of a new broad-spectrum UVB + UVA and blue light SPF50+ sunscreen containing Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine (TriAsorB), an innovative sun filter with unique optical properties

Accumulating evidence from numerous comprehensive studies has demonstrated that blue light, in particular high-energy visible light, can exert a range of harmful effects on skin cells. These forms of radiation are now known to be able to trigger oxidation reactions, DNA damage, erythema and pigmentary changes, and may also be associated with photoaging. Sunscreens protecting the skin from only ultraviolet (UV)-B and UVA rays can therefore no longer be regarded as sufficient to help prevent skin damage from sunlight, and products containing filters that can provide broad-spectrum photoprotection are required. To meet this need, a new sunscreen formulation that provides photoprotection against solar radiation with wavelengths ranging from UV to visible light has been developed, using an innovative organic sun filter with unique optical properties: phenylene bis diphenyltriazine (TriAsorB™). This article outlines the development and characteristics of this innovative filter and describes new key results from studies performed to assess the effectiveness and safety of the filter and the new sunscreen product. The studies conducted so far demonstrate that the filter has a good human and environmental safety profile. In addition, the sunscreen, which contains TriAsorB in combination with three other UV filters to offer broad-spectrum sun protection with a high sun protection factor (SPF50⁺ ), appears to effectively prevent multiple forms of cellular photodamage, in particular blue light-induced oxidatively generated DNA lesions. Overall, the available data indicate that regular use of the TriAsorB-containing sunscreen could help prevent solar radiation-induced skin damage and the development of signs of premature skin aging, as well as photodermatoses caused or exacerbated by visible light.

Demonstration of the first-pass metabolism in the skin of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, using the Chip2 skin-liver microphysiological model

We used TissUse's HUMIMIC Chip2 microfluidic model, incorporating reconstructed skin models and liver spheroids, to investigate the impact of consumer-relevant application scenarios on the metabolic fate of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene (AHT). After a single topical or systemic application of AHT to Chip2 models, medium was analysed for parent and metabolites over 5 days. The metabolic profile of a high dose (resulting in a circuit concentration of 100 μM based on 100% bioavailability) of AHT was the same after systemic and topical application to 96-well EpiDerm™ models. Additional experiments indicated that metabolic capacity of EpiDerm™ models were saturated at this dose. At 2.5 μM, concentrations of AHT and several of its metabolites differed between application routes. Topical application resulted in a higher C_max and a 327% higher area under the curve (AUC) of N-acetyl-AHT, indicating a first-pass effect in the EpiDerm™ models. In accordance with in vivo observations, there was a concomitant decrease in the C_max and AUC of AHT-O-sulphate after topical, compared with systemic application. A similar alteration in metabolite ratios was observed using a 24-well full-thickness skin model, EpiDermFT™, indicating that a first-pass effect was also possible to detect in a more complex model. In addition, washing the EpiDermFT™ after 30 min, thus reflecting consumer use, decreased the systemic exposure to AHT and its metabolites. In conclusion, the skin-liver Chip2 model can be used to (a) recapitulate the first-pass effect of the skin and alterations in the metabolite profile of AHT observed in vivo and (b) provide consumer-relevant data regarding leave-on/rinse-off products.

Metabolism and plasma protein binding of 16 straight- and branched-chain parabens in in vitro liver and skin models

Parabens are alkyl esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (4-HBA), with short-chain parabens used as antimicrobials in cosmetics. We investigated the impact of chain structure on skin and liver metabolism. Incubations with primary human hepatocytes and human liver S9 indicated that methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and butylparaben were rapidly metabolized to similar metabolites, including 4-HBA plus the corresponding alcohols. Liver and EpiSkin™ S9 were used to investigate the metabolism of 16 short and long straight- and branched-chain parabens. The rate of hydrolysis generally decreased with increasing chain length in liver S9, whereas the reverse was true for EpiSkin™ S9. Chain length also correlated with the number of metabolites, with more oxidized metabolites detected from longer chain parabens. The identity of the alcohol group impacted metabolism the most, in terms of the rate of metabolism and the contribution of cofactors. The majority of parabens (13/16) exhibited high plasma protein binding (PPB) (>90%); whereas, 4-HBA PPB was 38%. PPB was related to the LogP of the parabens. In conclusion, the major and common paraben metabolite in PHH, liver S9 and EpiSkin™ S9 was 4-HBA. The rate of metabolism, type of metabolite and contribution of hydrolysis was tissue-specific (liver, skin) and was influenced by the chain length (and hence LogP), structural isomeric form (straight vs branched), and/or the identity of the alkyl group. SHORT ABSTRACT: We investigated how the chain structure of parabens affects their metabolism by liver and EpiSkin™ S9. The major and common metabolite in primary human hepatocytes, liver S9 and EpiSkin™ S9 was 4-HBA plus the corresponding alcohols. The rate of metabolism, type of metabolite and contribution of hydrolysis was tissue-specific and influenced by the chain length, structural isomeric form (straight vs branched), and/or the identity of the alkyl group. Most parabens exhibited high PPB (>90%), whereas the PPB of 4-HBA was 38%.

Measurement of the penetration of 56 cosmetic relevant chemicals into and through human skin using a standardized protocol

OECD test guideline 428 compliant protocol using human skin was used to test the penetration of 56 cosmetic‐relevant chemicals. The penetration of finite doses (10 μL/cm²) of chemicals was measured over 24 hours. The dermal delivery (DD) (amount in the epidermis, dermis and receptor fluid [RF]) ranged between 0.03 ± 0.02 and 72.61 ± 8.89 μg/cm². The DD of seven chemicals was comparable with in vivo values. The DD was mainly accounted for by the amount in the RF, although there were some exceptions, particularly of low DD chemicals. While there was some variability due to cell outliers and donor variation, the overall reproducibility was very good. As six chemicals had to be applied in 100% ethanol due to low aqueous solubility, we compared the penetration of four chemicals with similar physicochemical properties applied in ethanol and phosphate‐buffered saline. Of these, the DD of hydrocortisone was the same in both solvents, while the DD of propylparaben, geraniol and benzophenone was lower in ethanol. Some chemicals displayed an infinite dose kinetic profile; whereas, the cumulative absorption of others into the RF reflected the finite dosing profile, possibly due to chemical volatility, total absorption, chemical precipitation through vehicle evaporation or protein binding (or a combination of these). These investigations provide a substantial and consistent set of skin penetration data that can help improve the understanding of skin penetration, as well as improve the prediction capacity of in silico skin penetration models.

The penetration of 56 chemicals was tested in human skin using a standard protocol. Dermal delivery correlated with the amount in the receptor fluid (RF). The impact of solvent on penetration was evaluated. Despite finite doses being applied, different profiles of cumulative absorption kinetics into the RF were observed. These data may help understand skin penetration and improve the prediction capacity of in silico skin penetration models.

Comparison of the metabolism of 10 cosmetics-relevant chemicals in EpiSkin™ S9 subcellular fractions and in vitro human skin explants

An understanding of the bioavailability of topically applied cosmetics ingredients is key to predicting their local skin and systemic toxicity and making a safety assessment. We investigated whether short-term incubations with S9 from the reconstructed epidermal skin model, EpiSkin™, would give an indication of the rate of chemical metabolism and produce similar metabolites to those formed in incubations with human skin explants. Both have advantages: EpiSkin™ S9 is a higher-throughput assay, while the human skin explant model represents a longer incubation duration (24 hours) model integrating cutaneous distribution with metabolite formation. Here, we compared the metabolism of 10 chemicals (caffeine, vanillin, cinnamyl alcohol, propylparaben, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, resorcinol, 4-chloroaniline, 2-amino-3-methyl-3H-imidazo[4,5-F]quinoline and 2-acetyl aminofluorene) in both models. Both models were shown to have functional Phase 1 and 2 enzymes, including cytochrome P450 activities. There was a good concordance between the models with respect to the level of metabolism (stable vs. slowly vs. extensively metabolized chemicals) and major early metabolites produced for eight chemicals. Discordant results for two chemicals were attributed to a lack of the appropriate cofactor (NADP⁺ ) in S9 incubations (cinnamyl alcohol) and protein binding influencing chemical uptake in skin explants (4-chloroaniline). These data support the use of EpiSkin™ S9 as a screening assay to provide an initial indication of the metabolic stability of a chemical applied topically. If required, chemicals that are not metabolized by EpiSkin™ S9 can be tested in longer-term incubations with in vitro human explant skin to determine whether it is slowly metabolized or not metabolized at all.

Use of a Simple in vitro Test to Assess Loss of Chemical due to Volatility during an in vitro Human Skin Absorption Study

BACKGROUND

We tested the cutaneous distribution of 50 chemicals in frozen human skin. The mass balance (MB) values for 48% of the chemicals were < 90%, possibly due to evaporation.

METHODS

We confirmed the reduction in MB was due to evaporation for two chemicals tested in skin penetration experiments using a carbon filter above the skin to trap airborne chemical. An in vitro assay was used to predict the reduction in MB due to evaporation by comparing the recovery of chemicals after 4 h of incubation at room temperature in open and closed vials.

RESULTS

Evaporative losses in vitro correlated well with measured MBs (i.e., < 90%) in skin penetration experiments (R2 = 0.81). There was a correlation of the MB with the vapour pressure (VP) which could be used to group chemicals according to their likelihood to evaporate during the course of a skin penetration study. There was also a correlation of MB with Henry's law constants, melting and boiling points.

CONCLUSION

Our data support the use of a quick and simple test for volatility to account for the loss of MB in skin penetration experiment due to volatility. The best parameter to indicate the potential of a chemical to evaporate is the VP.

Comparison of the metabolism of 10 chemicals in human and pig skin explants

Skin metabolism is important to consider when assessing local toxicity and/or penetration of chemicals and their metabolites. If human skin supply is limited, pig skin can be used as an alternative. To identify any species differences, we have investigated the metabolism of 10 chemicals in a pig and human skin explant model. Phase I metabolic pathways in skin from both species included those known to occur via cytochrome P450s, esterases, alcohol dehydrogenases and aldehyde dehydrogenases. Common Phase II pathways were glucuronidation and sulfation but other conjugation pathways were also identified. Chemicals not metabolized by pig skin (caffeine, IQ and 4‐chloroaniline) were also not metabolized by human skin. Six chemicals metabolized by pig skin were metabolized to a similar extent (percentage parent remaining) by human skin. Human skin metabolites were also detected in pig skin incubations, except for one unidentified minor vanillin metabolite. Three cinnamyl alcohol metabolites were unique to pig skin but represented minor metabolites. There were notable species differences in the relative amounts of common metabolites. The difference in the abundance of the sulfate conjugates of resorcinol and 4‐amino‐3‐nitrophenol was in accordance with the known lack of aryl sulfotransferase activity in pigs. In conclusion, while qualitative comparisons of metabolic profiles were consistent between pig and human skin, there were some quantitative differences in the percentage of metabolites formed. This preliminary assessment suggests that pig skin is metabolically competent and could be a useful tool for evaluating potential first‐pass metabolism before testing in human‐derived tissues.

We have investigated the metabolism of 10 chemicals in viable pig and human skin. Phase I and II metabolic pathways were present in skin from both species. Chemicals not metabolized by pig skin were also not metabolized by human skin. Six chemicals metabolized by pig skin were also metabolized to a similar extent by human skin. Pig and human skin produced common metabolites, although some species differences were observed and as their relative amounts differed.