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Moore K, Grégoire S, Eilstein J, Delgado-Charro MB, Guy RH. Correction to "Reverse Iontophoresis: Noninvasive Assessment of Topical Drug Bioavailability". Mol Pharm 2024; 21:2058. [PMID: 38441041 PMCID: PMC10988549 DOI: 10.1021/acs.molpharmaceut.4c00176] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/17/2024] [Indexed: 03/06/2024]
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Moore K, Grégoire S, Eilstein J, Delgado-Charro MB, Guy RH. Reverse Iontophoresis: Noninvasive Assessment of Topical Drug Bioavailability. Mol Pharm 2024; 21:234-244. [PMID: 38060844 PMCID: PMC10762657 DOI: 10.1021/acs.molpharmaceut.3c00791] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/29/2023] [Revised: 10/27/2023] [Accepted: 10/27/2023] [Indexed: 01/02/2024]
Abstract
Assessing drug disposition in the skin after the application of a topical formulation is difficult. It is hypothesized that reverse iontophoresis (RI), which can extract charged/polar molecules for monitoring purposes, may provide a noninvasive approach for the assessment of local drug bioavailability. The passive and RI extraction of salicylic acid (SA) and nicotine (NIC) from porcine skin in vitro was assessed after a simple solution of the former and a transdermal patch of the latter had been applied for 24 and 8 h, respectively. Immediately after this "passive skin loading", the amount of drug in the stratum corneum (SC) and "viable" tissue (VT) was measured either (a) after tape-stripping and subsequent solvent extraction of both skin layers or (b) following RI extraction over 4 h. Parallel experiments were then performed in vivo in healthy volunteers; in this case, the VT was not sampled and the skin loading period for NIC was only 4 h. RI extraction of both drugs was significantly higher (in vitro and in vivo) than that achieved passively, and the cumulative RI extraction profiles as a function of time were mathematically analyzed using a straightforward compartmental model. Best-fit estimates of drug amounts in the SC and VT (ASC,0 and AVT,0, respectively) at the end of "loading" and two first-order rate constants describing transfer between the model compartments were then determined. The in vitro predictions of ASC,0 and AVT,0 were in excellent agreement with the experimental results, as was the value of the former in vivo. The rate constants derived from the in vitro and in vivo results were also similar. In summary, the results provide proof-of-concept that the RI method has the potential to noninvasively assess relevant metrics of drug bioavailability in the skin.
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Affiliation(s)
- Kieran Moore
- Department
of Life Sciences, University of Bath, Claverton Down, Bath BA2 7AY, U.K.
| | - Sébastien Grégoire
- L’Oréal
Research and Innovation, 1 Av. Eugène Schueller, 93600 Aulnay-sous-Bois, France
| | - Joan Eilstein
- L’Oréal
Research and Innovation, 1 Av. Eugène Schueller, 93600 Aulnay-sous-Bois, France
| | | | - Richard H. Guy
- Department
of Life Sciences, University of Bath, Claverton Down, Bath BA2 7AY, U.K.
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Pannakal ST, Eilstein J, Hubert J, Kotland A, Prasad A, Gueguiniat-Prevot A, Juchaux F, Beaumard F, Seru G, John S, Roy D. Rapid Chemical Profiling of Filipendula ulmaria Using CPC Fractionation, 2-D Mapping of 13C NMR Data, and High-Resolution LC-MS. Molecules 2023; 28:6349. [PMID: 37687176 PMCID: PMC10489126 DOI: 10.3390/molecules28176349] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/03/2023] [Revised: 08/16/2023] [Accepted: 08/21/2023] [Indexed: 09/10/2023] Open
Abstract
Filipendula ulmaria, commonly known as meadowsweet, is a wild herbaceous flowering plant that is widely distributed in Europe. A range of salicylic acid derivatives and flavonol glycosides have been previously associated with the antirheumatic and diuretic properties of F. ulmaria. In the present work, a hydroalcoholic extract from F. ulmaria aerial parts was extensively profiled using an efficient NMR-based dereplication strategy. The approach involves the fractionation of the crude extract by centrifugal partition chromatography (CPC), 13C NMR analysis of the fractions, 2D-cluster mapping of the entire NMR dataset, and, finally, structure elucidation using a natural metabolite database, validated by 2D NMR data interpretation and liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. The chemodiversity of the aerial parts was extensive, with 28 compounds unambiguously identified, spanning various biosynthetic classes. The F. ulmaria extract and CPC fractions were screened for their potential to enhance skin epidermal barrier function and skin renewal properties using in vitro assays performed on Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes. Fractions containing quercetin, kaempferol glycosides, ursolic acid, pomolic acid, naringenin, β-sitosterol, and Tellimagrandins I and II were found to upregulate genes related to skin barrier function, epidermal renewal, and stress responses. This research is significant as it could provide a natural solution for improving hydration and skin renewal properties.
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Affiliation(s)
- Steve Thomas Pannakal
- Advanced Research, L’Oréal Research and Innovation India, Bearys Global Research Triangle, Whitefield Ashram Road, Bangalore 560067, India
| | - Joan Eilstein
- Advanced Research, L’Oréal Research and Innovation, 1 Avenue Eugène Schueller, 93600 Aulnay-Sous-Bois, France
| | - Jane Hubert
- NatExplore SAS, 25 La Chute des Eaux, 51140 Prouilly, France
| | - Alexis Kotland
- NatExplore SAS, 25 La Chute des Eaux, 51140 Prouilly, France
| | - Arpita Prasad
- Advanced Research, L’Oréal Research and Innovation India, Bearys Global Research Triangle, Whitefield Ashram Road, Bangalore 560067, India
| | - Amelie Gueguiniat-Prevot
- Advanced Research, L’Oréal Research and Innovation, 1 Avenue Eugène Schueller, 93600 Aulnay-Sous-Bois, France
| | - Franck Juchaux
- Advanced Research, L’Oréal Research and Innovation, 1 Avenue Eugène Schueller, 93600 Aulnay-Sous-Bois, France
| | - Floriane Beaumard
- Advanced Research, L’Oréal Research and Innovation, 1 Avenue Eugène Schueller, 93600 Aulnay-Sous-Bois, France
| | - Ganapaty Seru
- Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry Division, Gitam Institute of Pharmacy, Gitam University, Visakhapatnam 530045, India
| | - Sherluck John
- Advanced Research, L’Oréal Research and Innovation India, Bearys Global Research Triangle, Whitefield Ashram Road, Bangalore 560067, India
| | - Dhimoy Roy
- L’Oréal India Pvt Ltd., Research & Innovation, 7th Floor, Universal Majestic, Ghatkopar—Mankhurd Link Road, Chembur, Mumbai 400071, India
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Eilstein J, Nair V, Moore K, Pannakal ST, Grégoire S, Ekhar P, Guy RH, Delgado-Charro MB, Roy N. Non-destructive, reverse iontophoretic extraction of phytochemicals from Mangifera indica, Centella asiatica, Punica granatum, and Citrus sinensis. Phytochem Anal 2023; 34:408-413. [PMID: 36971356 DOI: 10.1002/pca.3219] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/06/2022] [Revised: 02/05/2023] [Accepted: 02/21/2023] [Indexed: 06/03/2023]
Abstract
For the commercial-scale isolation of phytochemicals, a suitable plant biomass source (including species, origin, growing season, etc.) must be identified, and frequent analytical verification is required to ensure that the phytochemicals are present at predefined minimum threshold concentrations. While the latter are typically assessed in the laboratory, a more efficient and less resource-intensive approach would involve non-destructive and environmentally friendly measurements in situ. Reverse iontophoretic (RI) sampling offers a potential solution to this challenge. OBJECTIVE We aimed to demonstrate the non-destructive, RI sampling of phytochemicals of interest from biomass from four different sources. MATERIALS AND METHODS RI experiments were performed in side-by-side diffusion cells using a current density of 0.5 mA/cm2 , for a predetermined time in a defined pH environment, using (1) fresh leaves from Mangifera indica and Centella asiatica and (2) isolated peel from Punica granatum and Citrus sinensis. RESULTS Mangiferin, madecassoside, punicalagin, ellagic acid, and hesperidin were extracted from the different biomasses by RI. The amounts extracted ranged from 0.03 mg/100 mg of biomass for the cathodal extraction of madecassoside to 0.63 mg/100 mg of biomass for the anodal extraction of punicalagin. A linear relationship (r2 = 0.73) between the RI-extracted quantities of punicalagin and those determined using conventional methods was demonstrated. CONCLUSION The non-destructive, in situ measurement of phytochemical levels by RI represents a feasible approach for timing the harvesting process.
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Affiliation(s)
- Joan Eilstein
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation India, Bearys Global Research Triangle, Bangalore, India
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Aulnay-Sous-Bois, France
| | - Vimal Nair
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation India, Bearys Global Research Triangle, Bangalore, India
| | - Kieran Moore
- Department of Life Sciences, University of Bath, Bath, UK
| | - Steve Thomas Pannakal
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation India, Bearys Global Research Triangle, Bangalore, India
| | | | - Prashant Ekhar
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation India, Bearys Global Research Triangle, Bangalore, India
| | - Richard H Guy
- Department of Life Sciences, University of Bath, Bath, UK
| | | | - Nita Roy
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation India, Bearys Global Research Triangle, Bangalore, India
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Moore K, Reeksting SB, Nair V, Pannakal ST, Roy N, Eilstein J, Grégoire S, Delgado-Charro MB, Guy RH. Extraction of phytochemicals from the pomegranate ( Punica granatum L., Punicaceae) by reverse iontophoresis. RSC Adv 2023; 13:11261-11268. [PMID: 37057274 PMCID: PMC10087384 DOI: 10.1039/d3ra01242e] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/23/2023] [Accepted: 04/03/2023] [Indexed: 04/15/2023] Open
Abstract
Plant metabolic profiling can provide a wealth of information regarding the biochemical status of the organism, but sample acquisition typically requires an invasive and/or destructive extraction process. Reverse iontophoresis (RI) imposes a small electric field across a biological membrane to substantially enhance the transport of charged and polar compounds and has been employed, in particular, to extract biomarkers of interest across human skin. The objective of this work was to examine the capability of RI to sample phytochemicals in a minimally invasive fashion in fructo (i.e., from the intact fruit). RI was principally used to extract a model, bioactive compound - specifically, ellagic acid - from the fruit peel of Punica granatum L. The RI sampling protocol was refined using isolated peel, and a number of experimental factors were examined and optimised, including preparation of the peel samples, the current intensity applied and the pH of the medium into which samples were collected. The most favourable conditions (3 mA current for a period of 1 hour, into a buffer at pH 7.4) were then applied to the successful RI extraction of ellagic acid from intact pomegranates. Multiple additional phytochemicals were also extracted and identified by liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). A successful proof-of-concept has been achieved, demonstrating the capability to non-destructively extract phytochemicals of interest from intact fruit.
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Affiliation(s)
- Kieran Moore
- Department of Life Sciences, University of Bath UK
| | | | - Vimal Nair
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation India Bangalore India
| | - Steve T Pannakal
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation India Bangalore India
| | - Nita Roy
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation India Bangalore India
| | - Joan Eilstein
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation India Bangalore India
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Vijayaraghavan S, Vedula SK, Bourokba N, Ngo T, Jourdain R, Eilstein J, Choudhury RP, Roy N. Relationship between Scalp Histamine Levels and Dandruff within an Indian Population: A confirmation study using LC/MS/MS method. Exp Dermatol 2022; 31:814-818. [PMID: 35143102 DOI: 10.1111/exd.14539] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/29/2021] [Revised: 01/11/2022] [Accepted: 02/07/2022] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
Abstract
Dandruff is a common and challenging complaint associated with type of scalp, skin and population. Scalp seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is a more severe manifestation of dandruff associated with very severe itching and inflammation. Histamine is an interesting biomarker released in scalp affected by dandruff and SD even though the mechanism is not well understood yet. A monocentre clinical study was conducted to confirm the relationship between dandruff/SD and scalp histamine level in Indian population. Highly sensitive liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry was used for histamine quantification in scalp from samples obtained non-invasively. Results showed that scalps with dandruff and mild to moderate SD had higher histamine levels compared to healthy scalps.
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Affiliation(s)
| | | | | | - TraMy Ngo
- L'Oreal Research & Innovation, Singapore, Singapore
| | | | | | | | - Nita Roy
- L'Oreal Research & Innovation, Bangalore, India
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Thomas Pannakal S, Eilstein J, Prasad A, Ekhar P, Shetty S, Peng Z, Bordier E, Boudah S, Paillat L, Marrot L, Garnier L, Pavan L, Roy N. Comprehensive characterization of naturally occurring antioxidants from the twigs of mulberry (Morus alba) using on-line high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with chemical detection and high-resolution mass spectrometry. Phytochem Anal 2022; 33:105-114. [PMID: 34184340 PMCID: PMC9292295 DOI: 10.1002/pca.3072] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/10/2021] [Revised: 05/30/2021] [Accepted: 05/31/2021] [Indexed: 05/03/2023]
Abstract
INTRODUCTION The mulberry tree (Morus alba L.) is a prolific source of biologically active compounds. There is considerable growing interest in probing M. alba twigs as a source of disruptive antioxidant lead candidates for cosmetic skin care product development. OBJECTIVE An integrated approach using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) coupled with either chemical detection (CD) or high-resolution mass spectrometry (HRMS) was applied to the hydroalcoholic extract of M. alba to detect and identify lead antioxidant compounds, respectively. MATERIAL AND METHODS The twigs were weighed, powdered and homogenized using a mill and the extract was prepared using 70% aqueous ethanol. The antioxidant metabolites were detected with HPLC coupled with CD (based on the ORAC assay) and their structural identification was carried out using a Q-Exactive Orbitrap MS instrument. RESULTS Using this approach, 13 peaks were detected as overall contributors to the antioxidant activity of M. alba, i.e. mulberrosides (A & E), oxyresveratrol & its derivatives, moracin & its derivatives and a dihydroxy-octadecadienoic acid, which together accounted for >90% of the antioxidant activity, highlighting the effectiveness of the integrated approach based on HPLC-CD and HPLC-HRMS. Additionally, a (3,4-dimethoxyphenyl-1-O-β-D-apiofuranosyl-(1″ → 6')-O-β-D-glucopyranoside was also discovered for the first time from the twig extract and is presented here. CONCLUSION To our knowledge, this is the first report from M. alba twigs using HPLC-CD and HPLC-HRMS that identifies key compounds responsible for the antioxidant property of this native Chinese medicinal plant.
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Affiliation(s)
- Steve Thomas Pannakal
- Advanced ResearchL'Oréal Research and Innovation India, Bearys Global Research TriangleWhitefield Ashram RoadBangalore560067India
| | - Joan Eilstein
- Advanced ResearchL'Oréal Research and Innovation India, Bearys Global Research TriangleWhitefield Ashram RoadBangalore560067India
| | - Arpita Prasad
- Advanced ResearchL'Oréal Research and Innovation India, Bearys Global Research TriangleWhitefield Ashram RoadBangalore560067India
| | - Prashant Ekhar
- Advanced ResearchL'Oréal Research and Innovation India, Bearys Global Research TriangleWhitefield Ashram RoadBangalore560067India
| | - Sanketh Shetty
- Advanced ResearchL'Oréal Research and Innovation India, Bearys Global Research TriangleWhitefield Ashram RoadBangalore560067India
| | - Zhengang Peng
- Advanced ResearchL'Oréal Research and Innovation China550 Jinyu RoadShanghai201206China
| | - Eric Bordier
- Advanced ResearchL'Oréal Research and Innovation1 Avenue Eugène Schueller, Aulnay‐Sous‐Bois93600France
| | - Samia Boudah
- Advanced ResearchL'Oréal Research and Innovation1 Avenue Eugène Schueller, Aulnay‐Sous‐Bois93600France
| | - Lionel Paillat
- Advanced ResearchL'Oréal Research and Innovation1 Avenue Eugène Schueller, Aulnay‐Sous‐Bois93600France
| | - Laurent Marrot
- Advanced ResearchL'Oréal Research and Innovation1 Avenue Eugène Schueller, Aulnay‐Sous‐Bois93600France
| | - Laurence Garnier
- Advanced ResearchL'Oréal Research and Innovation1 Avenue Eugène Schueller, Aulnay‐Sous‐Bois93600France
| | - Laurent Pavan
- Advanced ResearchL'Oréal Research and Innovation1 Avenue Eugène Schueller, Aulnay‐Sous‐Bois93600France
| | - Nita Roy
- Advanced ResearchL'Oréal Research and Innovation India, Bearys Global Research TriangleWhitefield Ashram RoadBangalore560067India
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Chen L, Li N, Liu Y, Faquet B, Alépée N, Ding C, Eilstein J, Zhong L, Peng Z, Ma J, Cai Z, Ouedraogo G. A new 3D model for genotoxicity assessment: EpiSkin™ Micronucleus Assay. Mutagenesis 2021; 36:51-61. [PMID: 32067034 DOI: 10.1093/mutage/geaa003] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/12/2019] [Accepted: 01/14/2020] [Indexed: 11/12/2022] Open
Abstract
The European Regulation on Cosmetics (no. 1223/2009) has prohibited the use of animals in safety testing since March 2009 for ingredients used in cosmetics. Irreversible events at the chromosome level (clastogenesis and aneugenesis) are commonly evaluated by scoring either micronuclei or chromosome aberrations using cell-based genotoxicity assays. Like most in vitro genotoxicity assays, the 2D in vitro micronucleus assay exhibits a poor specificity and does not mimic the dermal route. To address these limitations, the current project aims to develop and validate a 3D micronucleus assay using the EpiSkin™ model. This project is scientifically supported by the Cosmetics Europe Genotoxicity Task Force. In a first step, two key criteria for the development of micronucleus assay, namely, the sufficient yield of cells from the EpiSkin™ model and an acceptable proliferation rate of the basal layer, were assessed and demonstrated. Subsequently, six chemicals (vinblastine, n-ethylnitrosourea, β-butyrolactone, 2-acetylaminofluorene, 2,4-dichlorophenoland d-limonene) were evaluated in the EpiSkin™ Micronucleus Assay. At least two independent experiments using 48- and 72-h incubations were performed for each chemical. Results showed good inter-experimental reproducibility, as well as the correct identification of all six tested chemicals. The metabolism of 2-acetylaminofluorene on the EpiSkin™ model was also investigated and confirmed by the formation of an intermediate metabolite (2-aminofluorene). These preliminary results from the EpiSkin™ Micronucleus Assay indicate that it is a promising in vitro assay for assessing genotoxicity. The availability and suitability of this test method contribute significantly to the development of non-animal testing methods in China and its impact on the worldwide field.
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Affiliation(s)
- Lizao Chen
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation China, Shanghai, China
| | - Nan Li
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation China, Shanghai, China
| | - Yanfeng Liu
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation China, Shanghai, China
| | - Brigitte Faquet
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Aulnay-Sous-Bois, France
| | - Nathalie Alépée
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Aulnay-Sous-Bois, France
| | - Chunmei Ding
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation China, Shanghai, China
| | - Joan Eilstein
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation India, Bearys Global Research Triangle, Bangalore, India
| | - Lingyan Zhong
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation China, Shanghai, China
| | - Zhengang Peng
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation China, Shanghai, China
| | - Jie Ma
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation China, Shanghai, China
| | - Zhenzi Cai
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation China, Shanghai, China
| | - Gladys Ouedraogo
- Advanced Research, L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Aulnay-Sous-Bois, France
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Tourneix F, Alépée N, Detroyer A, Eilstein J, Ez-Zoubir M, Teissier SM, Noçairi H, Piroird C, Basketter D, Del Bufalo A. Skin sensitisation testing in practice: Applying a stacking meta model to cosmetic ingredients. Toxicol In Vitro 2020; 66:104831. [PMID: 32198056 DOI: 10.1016/j.tiv.2020.104831] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/19/2019] [Revised: 03/13/2020] [Accepted: 03/16/2020] [Indexed: 11/17/2022]
Abstract
Recently, several non-animal approaches contributing to the identification of skin sensitisation hazard have been introduced. Their validation and acceptance has largely been directed towards regulatory classification. Considering the driving force for replacement of in vivo tests centred on cosmetics, it is reasonable to ask how well the new approaches perform in this respect. In the present study, 219 substances, largely cosmetic raw materials (including dyes, preservatives and fragrances), have been evaluated in our Defined Approach integrating a stacking meta model (version 5), incorporating the individual outcomes of 3 in vitro validated methods (Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay, Keratinosens™, U-SENS™), 2 in silico tools (TIMES SS, TOXTREE) and physicochemical parameters (volatility, pH). Stacking meta model outcomes were compared with existing local lymph node assay (LLNA) data. Non-sensitisers comprised 68/219; 86 were weak/moderate and 65 were stronger sensitisers. The model version revision demonstrate the gain to discriminate sensitizers to non-sensitiser when the in silico TIMES model is incorporated as input parameter. The 85% to 91% accuracy for the cosmetics categories, indicates the stacking meta model offers value for the next generation risk assessment framework. These results pinpoint the power of the stacking meta model relying on a confidence based on the probability given in any individual prediction.
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Eilstein J, Grégoire S, Fabre A, Arbey E, Géniès C, Duplan H, Rothe H, Ellison C, Cubberley R, Schepky A, Lange D, Klaric M, Hewitt NJ, Jacques‐Jamin C. Use of human liver and EpiSkin™ S9 subcellular fractions as a screening assays to compare the in vitro hepatic and dermal metabolism of 47 cosmetics‐relevant chemicals. J Appl Toxicol 2020; 40:416-433. [DOI: 10.1002/jat.3914] [Citation(s) in RCA: 8] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/03/2019] [Revised: 09/24/2019] [Accepted: 09/24/2019] [Indexed: 11/09/2022]
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Hewitt NJ, Grégoire S, Cubberley R, Duplan H, Eilstein J, Ellison C, Lester C, Fabian E, Fernandez J, Géniès C, Jacques-Jamin C, Klaric M, Rothe H, Sorrell I, Lange D, Schepky A. Measurement of the penetration of 56 cosmetic relevant chemicals into and through human skin using a standardized protocol. J Appl Toxicol 2019; 40:403-415. [PMID: 31867769 PMCID: PMC7027575 DOI: 10.1002/jat.3913] [Citation(s) in RCA: 30] [Impact Index Per Article: 6.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/14/2019] [Revised: 09/30/2019] [Accepted: 09/30/2019] [Indexed: 11/09/2022]
Abstract
OECD test guideline 428 compliant protocol using human skin was used to test the penetration of 56 cosmetic‐relevant chemicals. The penetration of finite doses (10 μL/cm2) of chemicals was measured over 24 hours. The dermal delivery (DD) (amount in the epidermis, dermis and receptor fluid [RF]) ranged between 0.03 ± 0.02 and 72.61 ± 8.89 μg/cm2. The DD of seven chemicals was comparable with in vivo values. The DD was mainly accounted for by the amount in the RF, although there were some exceptions, particularly of low DD chemicals. While there was some variability due to cell outliers and donor variation, the overall reproducibility was very good. As six chemicals had to be applied in 100% ethanol due to low aqueous solubility, we compared the penetration of four chemicals with similar physicochemical properties applied in ethanol and phosphate‐buffered saline. Of these, the DD of hydrocortisone was the same in both solvents, while the DD of propylparaben, geraniol and benzophenone was lower in ethanol. Some chemicals displayed an infinite dose kinetic profile; whereas, the cumulative absorption of others into the RF reflected the finite dosing profile, possibly due to chemical volatility, total absorption, chemical precipitation through vehicle evaporation or protein binding (or a combination of these). These investigations provide a substantial and consistent set of skin penetration data that can help improve the understanding of skin penetration, as well as improve the prediction capacity of in silico skin penetration models. The penetration of 56 chemicals was tested in human skin using a standard protocol. Dermal delivery correlated with the amount in the receptor fluid (RF). The impact of solvent on penetration was evaluated. Despite finite doses being applied, different profiles of cumulative absorption kinetics into the RF were observed. These data may help understand skin penetration and improve the prediction capacity of in silico skin penetration models.
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Affiliation(s)
| | | | | | | | - Joan Eilstein
- L'Oreal Research and Innovation, Aulnay-Sous-Bois, France
| | | | - Cathy Lester
- The Procter and Gamble Company, Cincinnati, Ohio
| | | | | | | | | | | | - Helga Rothe
- Procter and Gamble (currently Coty), Darmstadt, Germany
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Géniès C, Jacques-Jamin C, Duplan H, Rothe H, Ellison C, Cubberley R, Schepky A, Lange D, Klaric M, Hewitt NJ, Grégoire S, Arbey E, Fabre A, Eilstein J. Comparison of the metabolism of 10 cosmetics-relevant chemicals in EpiSkin™ S9 subcellular fractions and in vitro human skin explants. J Appl Toxicol 2019; 40:313-326. [PMID: 31701564 DOI: 10.1002/jat.3905] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/01/2019] [Revised: 08/13/2019] [Accepted: 08/27/2019] [Indexed: 11/08/2022]
Abstract
An understanding of the bioavailability of topically applied cosmetics ingredients is key to predicting their local skin and systemic toxicity and making a safety assessment. We investigated whether short-term incubations with S9 from the reconstructed epidermal skin model, EpiSkin™, would give an indication of the rate of chemical metabolism and produce similar metabolites to those formed in incubations with human skin explants. Both have advantages: EpiSkin™ S9 is a higher-throughput assay, while the human skin explant model represents a longer incubation duration (24 hours) model integrating cutaneous distribution with metabolite formation. Here, we compared the metabolism of 10 chemicals (caffeine, vanillin, cinnamyl alcohol, propylparaben, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, resorcinol, 4-chloroaniline, 2-amino-3-methyl-3H-imidazo[4,5-F]quinoline and 2-acetyl aminofluorene) in both models. Both models were shown to have functional Phase 1 and 2 enzymes, including cytochrome P450 activities. There was a good concordance between the models with respect to the level of metabolism (stable vs. slowly vs. extensively metabolized chemicals) and major early metabolites produced for eight chemicals. Discordant results for two chemicals were attributed to a lack of the appropriate cofactor (NADP+ ) in S9 incubations (cinnamyl alcohol) and protein binding influencing chemical uptake in skin explants (4-chloroaniline). These data support the use of EpiSkin™ S9 as a screening assay to provide an initial indication of the metabolic stability of a chemical applied topically. If required, chemicals that are not metabolized by EpiSkin™ S9 can be tested in longer-term incubations with in vitro human explant skin to determine whether it is slowly metabolized or not metabolized at all.
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Tourneix F, Alépée N, Detroyer A, Eilstein J, Martinozzi Teissier S, Nardelli L, Noçairi H, Pauloin T, Piroird C, Del Bufalo A. Assessment of a defined approach based on a stacking prediction model to identify skin sensitization hazard. Toxicol In Vitro 2019; 60:134-143. [DOI: 10.1016/j.tiv.2019.05.008] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/22/2018] [Revised: 05/10/2019] [Accepted: 05/13/2019] [Indexed: 10/26/2022]
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14
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Grégoire S, Cubberley R, Duplan H, Eilstein J, Hewitt NJ, Jacques-Jamin C, Genies C, Klaric M, Rothe H, Ellison C, Fernandez J, Schepky A. Use of a Simple in vitro Test to Assess Loss of Chemical due to Volatility during an in vitro Human Skin Absorption Study. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2019; 32:117-124. [PMID: 30889606 DOI: 10.1159/000497105] [Citation(s) in RCA: 6] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/30/2018] [Accepted: 01/18/2019] [Indexed: 11/19/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND We tested the cutaneous distribution of 50 chemicals in frozen human skin. The mass balance (MB) values for 48% of the chemicals were < 90%, possibly due to evaporation. METHODS We confirmed the reduction in MB was due to evaporation for two chemicals tested in skin penetration experiments using a carbon filter above the skin to trap airborne chemical. An in vitro assay was used to predict the reduction in MB due to evaporation by comparing the recovery of chemicals after 4 h of incubation at room temperature in open and closed vials. RESULTS Evaporative losses in vitro correlated well with measured MBs (i.e., < 90%) in skin penetration experiments (R2 = 0.81). There was a correlation of the MB with the vapour pressure (VP) which could be used to group chemicals according to their likelihood to evaporate during the course of a skin penetration study. There was also a correlation of MB with Henry's law constants, melting and boiling points. CONCLUSION Our data support the use of a quick and simple test for volatility to account for the loss of MB in skin penetration experiment due to volatility. The best parameter to indicate the potential of a chemical to evaporate is the VP.
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Affiliation(s)
| | | | | | - Joan Eilstein
- L'Oreal Research and Innovation, Aulnay-sous-Bois, France
| | | | | | | | | | - Helga Rothe
- Procter & Gamble (currently Coty), Darmstadt, Germany
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15
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Géniès C, Jamin EL, Debrauwer L, Zalko D, Person EN, Eilstein J, Grégoire S, Schepky A, Lange D, Ellison C, Roe A, Salhi S, Cubberley R, Hewitt NJ, Rothe H, Klaric M, Duplan H, Jacques-Jamin C. Comparison of the metabolism of 10 chemicals in human and pig skin explants. J Appl Toxicol 2018; 39:385-397. [PMID: 30345528 PMCID: PMC6587507 DOI: 10.1002/jat.3730] [Citation(s) in RCA: 13] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/16/2018] [Revised: 08/13/2018] [Accepted: 08/22/2018] [Indexed: 01/24/2023]
Abstract
Skin metabolism is important to consider when assessing local toxicity and/or penetration of chemicals and their metabolites. If human skin supply is limited, pig skin can be used as an alternative. To identify any species differences, we have investigated the metabolism of 10 chemicals in a pig and human skin explant model. Phase I metabolic pathways in skin from both species included those known to occur via cytochrome P450s, esterases, alcohol dehydrogenases and aldehyde dehydrogenases. Common Phase II pathways were glucuronidation and sulfation but other conjugation pathways were also identified. Chemicals not metabolized by pig skin (caffeine, IQ and 4‐chloroaniline) were also not metabolized by human skin. Six chemicals metabolized by pig skin were metabolized to a similar extent (percentage parent remaining) by human skin. Human skin metabolites were also detected in pig skin incubations, except for one unidentified minor vanillin metabolite. Three cinnamyl alcohol metabolites were unique to pig skin but represented minor metabolites. There were notable species differences in the relative amounts of common metabolites. The difference in the abundance of the sulfate conjugates of resorcinol and 4‐amino‐3‐nitrophenol was in accordance with the known lack of aryl sulfotransferase activity in pigs. In conclusion, while qualitative comparisons of metabolic profiles were consistent between pig and human skin, there were some quantitative differences in the percentage of metabolites formed. This preliminary assessment suggests that pig skin is metabolically competent and could be a useful tool for evaluating potential first‐pass metabolism before testing in human‐derived tissues. We have investigated the metabolism of 10 chemicals in viable pig and human skin. Phase I and II metabolic pathways were present in skin from both species. Chemicals not metabolized by pig skin were also not metabolized by human skin. Six chemicals metabolized by pig skin were also metabolized to a similar extent by human skin. Pig and human skin produced common metabolites, although some species differences were observed and as their relative amounts differed.
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Affiliation(s)
- C Géniès
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Toulouse, France
| | - E L Jamin
- Toxalim (Research Centre in Food Toxicology), Université de Toulouse, INRA, ENVT, INP-Purpan, UPS, Toulouse, France
| | - L Debrauwer
- Toxalim (Research Centre in Food Toxicology), Université de Toulouse, INRA, ENVT, INP-Purpan, UPS, Toulouse, France
| | - D Zalko
- Toxalim (Research Centre in Food Toxicology), Université de Toulouse, INRA, ENVT, INP-Purpan, UPS, Toulouse, France
| | - E N Person
- Toxalim (Research Centre in Food Toxicology), Université de Toulouse, INRA, ENVT, INP-Purpan, UPS, Toulouse, France
| | | | | | | | - D Lange
- Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg, Germany
| | - C Ellison
- The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, OH, USA
| | - A Roe
- The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, OH, USA
| | | | | | | | | | - M Klaric
- Cosmetics Europe, Brussels, Belgium
| | - H Duplan
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Toulouse, France
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16
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Detroyer A, Ivanova H, Eilstein J, Piroird C, Imbert S, Del Bufalo A, Popova I, Kuseva C, Karakolev I, Dimitrov S, Mekenyan O. Predicting in silico the Direct-Peptide-Reactivity-Assay (DPRA) within the Allergic Contact Dermatitis framework: A module accounting for test variability and abiotic transformations. Toxicol Lett 2018. [DOI: 10.1016/j.toxlet.2018.06.599] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/28/2022]
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17
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Liu Y, Ni H, Wargniez W, Grégoire S, Durand I, Roussel-Berlier L, Eilstein J, Jie Q, Ma T, Shen T, Wang Y, Qiu J. Inter-laboratory study of the skin distribution of 4-n-butyl resorcinol in ex vivo pig and human skin. J Chromatogr B Analyt Technol Biomed Life Sci 2018; 1093-1094:77-79. [PMID: 29990716 DOI: 10.1016/j.jchromb.2018.06.048] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/10/2018] [Revised: 06/04/2018] [Accepted: 06/21/2018] [Indexed: 11/26/2022]
Abstract
4-n-butyl resorcinol (4-nBR) is a highly effective tyrosinase inhibitor, and can be used in cosmetic product for depigmentation purpose. Its efficacy correlates with 4-nBR that absorbed by skin. In this study, skin distribution of 4-nBR within either human or pig skin ex vivo was studied and compared by three independent laboratories. Good agreement was observed in each compartment considering usual inter-lab variability. This study supports the use of pig skin as an alternative source of skin when the availability of human skin is a limiting factor.
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Affiliation(s)
- Yang Liu
- L'Oreal Research and Innovation, 550 Jinyu Road, Shanghai, China
| | - Haiyan Ni
- L'Oreal Research and Innovation, 550 Jinyu Road, Shanghai, China
| | - William Wargniez
- L'Oreal Research and Innovation, 1 Avenue Eugene Schueller, Aulnay Sous Bois, France
| | - Sébastien Grégoire
- L'Oreal Research and Innovation, 1 Avenue Eugene Schueller, Aulnay Sous Bois, France
| | - Ingrid Durand
- L'Oreal Research and Innovation, 1 Avenue Eugene Schueller, Aulnay Sous Bois, France
| | | | - Joan Eilstein
- L'Oreal Research and Innovation, 1 Avenue Eugene Schueller, Aulnay Sous Bois, France
| | - Qiang Jie
- School of Pharmacy, Fudan University, 826 Zhangheng Road, Shanghai, China
| | - Tian Ma
- School of Pharmacy, Fudan University, 826 Zhangheng Road, Shanghai, China
| | - Teng Shen
- School of Pharmacy, Fudan University, 826 Zhangheng Road, Shanghai, China
| | - Yingyin Wang
- L'Oreal Research and Innovation, 550 Jinyu Road, Shanghai, China
| | - Jie Qiu
- L'Oreal Research and Innovation, 550 Jinyu Road, Shanghai, China.
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18
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Desprez B, Dent M, Keller D, Klaric M, Ouédraogo G, Cubberley R, Duplan H, Eilstein J, Ellison C, Grégoire S, Hewitt NJ, Jacques-Jamin C, Lange D, Roe A, Rothe H, Blaauboer BJ, Schepky A, Mahony C. A strategy for systemic toxicity assessment based on non-animal approaches: The Cosmetics Europe Long Range Science Strategy programme. Toxicol In Vitro 2018; 50:137-146. [DOI: 10.1016/j.tiv.2018.02.017] [Citation(s) in RCA: 36] [Impact Index Per Article: 6.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/02/2017] [Revised: 02/26/2018] [Accepted: 02/27/2018] [Indexed: 12/26/2022]
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19
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Legouffe R, Bonnel D, Jones C, Cavusoglu N, Léreaux G, Eilstein J, Farcette F, Stauber J, Soeur J. 1331 Glutathione (GSH) distribution by quantitative MALDI imaging in reconstructed human skin upon activation of GSH biosynthesis by Nrf2 pathway activator. J Invest Dermatol 2018. [DOI: 10.1016/j.jid.2018.03.1348] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/01/2022]
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20
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Del Bufalo A, Pauloin T, Alepee N, Clouzeau J, Detroyer A, Eilstein J, Gomes C, Nocairi H, Piroird C, Rousset F, Tourneix F, Basketter D, Martinozzi Teissier S. Alternative Integrated Testing for Skin Sensitization: Assuring Consumer Safety. ACTA ACUST UNITED AC 2018. [DOI: 10.1089/aivt.2017.0023] [Citation(s) in RCA: 15] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 02/06/2023]
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21
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Rothe H, Grégoire S, Obringer C, Manwaring J, Eilstein J, Lange D, Cubberley R, Duplan H, Jacques-Jamin C, Ellison C, Klaric M, Hewitt N, Schepky A. Skin penetration in silico modeling-improvement by using in vitro data. Toxicol Lett 2017. [DOI: 10.1016/j.toxlet.2017.07.111] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/18/2022]
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Schepky A, Cubberley R, Duplan H, Eilstein J, Ellison C, Gregoire S, Hewitt N, Jacques-Jamin C, Lange D, Roe A, Rothe H, Klaric M. Better understanding of bioavailability of cosmetic ingredients: Results from Cosmetics Europe Skin Bioavailability project. Toxicol Lett 2017. [DOI: 10.1016/j.toxlet.2017.07.305] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/25/2022]
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23
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Jacques-Jamin C, Duplan H, Rothe H, Vaillant O, Eilstein J, Grégoire S, Cubberley R, Lange D, Ellison C, Klaric M, Hewitt N, Schepky A. Comparison of the Skin Penetration of 3 Metabolically Stable Chemicals Using Fresh and Frozen Human Skin. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2017; 30:234-245. [DOI: 10.1159/000475472] [Citation(s) in RCA: 15] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/18/2016] [Accepted: 04/03/2017] [Indexed: 11/19/2022]
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24
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Grégoire S, Cubberley R, Duplan H, Eilstein J, Lange D, Hewitt N, Jacques-Jamin C, Klaric M, Rothe H, Ellison C, Vaillant O, Schepky A. Solvent Solubility Testing of Cosmetics-Relevant Chemicals: Methodology and Correlation of Water Solubility to In Silico Predictions. J SOLUTION CHEM 2017. [DOI: 10.1007/s10953-017-0652-5] [Citation(s) in RCA: 6] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.9] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/19/2022]
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25
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Rothe H, Obringer C, Manwaring J, Avci C, Wargniez W, Eilstein J, Hewitt N, Cubberley R, Duplan H, Lange D, Jacques‐Jamin C, Klaric M, Schepky A, Grégoire S. Comparison of protocols measuring diffusion and partition coefficients in the stratum corneum. J Appl Toxicol 2017; 37:806-816. [PMID: 28139006 PMCID: PMC5484360 DOI: 10.1002/jat.3427] [Citation(s) in RCA: 14] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/23/2016] [Revised: 11/08/2016] [Accepted: 11/08/2016] [Indexed: 11/08/2022]
Abstract
Partition (K) and diffusion (D) coefficients are important to measure for the modelling of skin penetration of chemicals through the stratum corneum (SC). We compared the feasibility of three protocols for the testing of 50 chemicals in our main studies, using three cosmetics-relevant model chemicals with a wide range of logP values. Protocol 1: SC concentration-depth profile using tape-stripping (measures KSC/v and DSC /HSC2 , where HSC is the SC thickness); Protocol 2A: incubation of isolated SC with chemical (direct measurement of KSC/v only) and Protocol 2B: diffusion through isolated SC mounted on a Franz cell (measures KSC/v and DSC /HSC2 , and is based on Fick's laws). KSC/v values for caffeine and resorcinol using Protocol 1 and 2B were within 30% of each other, values using Protocol 2A were ~two-fold higher, and all values were within 10-fold of each other. Only indirect determination of KSC/v by Protocol 2B was different from the direct measurement of KSC/v by Protocol 2A and Protocol 1 for 7-EC. The variability of KSC/v for all three chemicals using Protocol 2B was higher compared to Protocol 1 and 2A. DSC /HSC2 values for the three chemicals were of the same order of magnitude using all three protocols. Additionally, using Protocol 1, there was very little difference between parameters measured in pig and human SC. In conclusion, KSC/v, and DSC values were comparable using different methods. Pig skin might be a good surrogate for human skin for the three chemicals tested. Copyright © 2017 The Authors Journal of Applied Toxicology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.
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Affiliation(s)
- H. Rothe
- Procter & Gamble Service GmbH, (currently HFC Prestige Service Germany GmbH)Berliner Allee 6564295DarmstadtGermany
- Present address: Coty, Berliner Allee6564295DarmstadtGermany
| | - C. Obringer
- Procter & Gamble Inc., Mason Business CenterMasonOH45040USA
| | - J. Manwaring
- Procter & Gamble Inc., Mason Business CenterMasonOH45040USA
| | - C. Avci
- L'Oreal Research & Innovation1, avenue Eugène Schueller93601Aulnay‐sous‐BoisFrance
| | - W. Wargniez
- L'Oreal Research & Innovation1, avenue Eugène Schueller93601Aulnay‐sous‐BoisFrance
| | - J. Eilstein
- L'Oreal Research & Innovation1, avenue Eugène Schueller93601Aulnay‐sous‐BoisFrance
| | - N. Hewitt
- Cosmetics EuropeAvenue Herrmann‐Debroux 40B‐1160BrusselsBelgium
| | - R. Cubberley
- Unilever, Colworth Science ParkSharnbrookBedfordMK44 1LQUK
| | - H. Duplan
- Pierre Fabre Dermo‐Cosmétique3, avenue Hubert Curien31035Toulouse Cedex 1France
| | - D. Lange
- Beiersdorf AGUnnastrasse 48D‐20245HamburgGermany
| | - C. Jacques‐Jamin
- Pierre Fabre Dermo‐Cosmétique3, avenue Hubert Curien31035Toulouse Cedex 1France
| | - M. Klaric
- Cosmetics EuropeAvenue Herrmann‐Debroux 40B‐1160BrusselsBelgium
| | - A. Schepky
- Beiersdorf AGUnnastrasse 48D‐20245HamburgGermany
| | - S. Grégoire
- L'Oreal Research & Innovation1, avenue Eugène Schueller93601Aulnay‐sous‐BoisFrance
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Sextius P, Betts R, Benkhalifa I, Commo S, Eilstein J, Massironi M, Wang P, Michelet JF, Qiu J, Tan X, Jeulin S. Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract protects human foreskin melanocytes from oxidative stress in vitro and potentiates hair follicle pigmentation ex vivo. Int J Cosmet Sci 2017; 39:419-425. [PMID: 28109001 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12391] [Citation(s) in RCA: 9] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/20/2016] [Accepted: 11/21/2016] [Indexed: 12/01/2022]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE To examine the ability of an extract from traditional Chinese medicine, Polygonum multiflorum Radix, to protect melanocyte viability from oxidative stress, a key mechanism in the initiation and progression of hair greying. METHODS To assess the antioxidant capacity of Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract, primary human foreskin melanocytes were treated with a commercially available Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract added to culture medium and exposed to hydrogen peroxide (H2 O2 ), using intracellular reactive oxygen species concentrations and glutathione/protein ratios as endpoints. To improve solubility for cosmetic uses, a new Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract was derived. As hair greying is the consequence of melanocyte disappearance in an oxidative stress environment, we checked whether the antioxidant capacity of the new Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract could preserve melanocyte viability in response to H2 O2 -induced oxidative stress, and preserve pigmentation within ex vivo human hair follicles. RESULTS In vitro treatment of primary human foreskin melanocytes with traditional available Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract resulted in decreased intracellular ROS accumulation in response to H2 O2 exposure with a concomitant preservation of glutathione-to-protein ratio, consistent with a protective response against H2 O2 exposure and demonstrating the promise of this extract for protecting melanocytes against oxidative stress. Melanocytes treated with the improved Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract exhibited attenuated H2 O2 -induced cell death, demonstrating a clear cytoprotective effect. Treatment of ex vivo human hair follicles with the improved Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract resulted in a higher level of melanin compared to vehicle-treated controls, demonstrating an ex vivo protective effect on hair pigmentation. CONCLUSION Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract protects in vitro primary human foreskin melanocytes from the deleterious effects of H2 O2 exposure and improves pigmentation within ex vivo human hair follicles, demonstrating the utility of Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract as a potential active ingredient for the protection of melanocytes against premature death. This data provides in vitro mechanistic evidence consistent with existing in vivo studies for the use of Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract as a strategy for the prevention of oxidative stress-induced hair greying, in line with traditional Polygonum multiflorum Radix uses.
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Affiliation(s)
- P Sextius
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 1 Avenue Eugene Schueller, Aulnay-sous-Bois, 93601, France
| | - R Betts
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 550 Jin Yu Road, Pudong, Shanghai, China
| | - I Benkhalifa
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 1 Avenue Eugene Schueller, Aulnay-sous-Bois, 93601, France
| | - S Commo
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 1 Avenue Eugene Schueller, Aulnay-sous-Bois, 93601, France
| | - J Eilstein
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 1 Avenue Eugene Schueller, Aulnay-sous-Bois, 93601, France
| | - M Massironi
- Cutech Srl, Via San Marco, Padova, 9/M I-35129, Italy
| | - P Wang
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 550 Jin Yu Road, Pudong, Shanghai, China
| | - J-F Michelet
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 1 Avenue Eugene Schueller, Aulnay-sous-Bois, 93601, France
| | - J Qiu
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 550 Jin Yu Road, Pudong, Shanghai, China
| | - X Tan
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 550 Jin Yu Road, Pudong, Shanghai, China
| | - S Jeulin
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 1 Avenue Eugene Schueller, Aulnay-sous-Bois, 93601, France
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27
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Legouffe R, Bonnel D, Jones C, Cavusoglu N, Léreaux G, Eilstein J, Heron A, Stauber J, Soeur J. 106 Glutathione (GSH) distribution by quantitative MALDI imaging in reconstructed human skin upon activation of GSH biosynthesis by Nrf2 pathway activator. J Invest Dermatol 2016. [DOI: 10.1016/j.jid.2016.06.124] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/16/2022]
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28
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Gerstel D, Jacques-Jamin C, Schepky A, Cubberley R, Eilstein J, Grégoire S, Hewitt N, Klaric M, Rothe H, Duplan H. Comparison of protocols for measuring cosmetic ingredient distribution in human and pig skin. Toxicol In Vitro 2016; 34:153-160. [DOI: 10.1016/j.tiv.2016.03.012] [Citation(s) in RCA: 24] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/08/2015] [Revised: 03/08/2016] [Accepted: 03/23/2016] [Indexed: 11/28/2022]
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29
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Dimitrov S, Detroyer A, Piroird C, Gomes C, Eilstein J, Pauloin T, Kuseva C, Ivanova H, Popova I, Karakolev Y, Ringeissen S, Mekenyan O. Accounting for data variability, a key factor inin vivo/in vitrorelationships: application to the skin sensitization potency (in vivoLLNA versusin vitroDPRA) example. J Appl Toxicol 2016; 36:1568-1578. [DOI: 10.1002/jat.3318] [Citation(s) in RCA: 10] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/11/2015] [Revised: 02/01/2016] [Accepted: 02/11/2016] [Indexed: 11/06/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- S. Dimitrov
- Laboratory of Mathematical Chemistry; University “Prof. As. Zlatarov”; 8010 Bourgas Bulgaria
| | | | | | - C. Gomes
- L'Oreal R&I; Aulnay-sous-Bois France
| | | | | | - C. Kuseva
- Laboratory of Mathematical Chemistry; University “Prof. As. Zlatarov”; 8010 Bourgas Bulgaria
| | - H. Ivanova
- Laboratory of Mathematical Chemistry; University “Prof. As. Zlatarov”; 8010 Bourgas Bulgaria
| | - I. Popova
- Laboratory of Mathematical Chemistry; University “Prof. As. Zlatarov”; 8010 Bourgas Bulgaria
| | - Y. Karakolev
- Laboratory of Mathematical Chemistry; University “Prof. As. Zlatarov”; 8010 Bourgas Bulgaria
| | | | - O. Mekenyan
- Laboratory of Mathematical Chemistry; University “Prof. As. Zlatarov”; 8010 Bourgas Bulgaria
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Rothe H, Schepky A, Hewitt N, Cubberley R, Duplan H, Eilstein J, Gerstel D, Grégoire S, Jacques-Jamin C, Klaric M. Solubility of cosmetics ingredients in 6 different solvents and applicability to skin bioavailability assays. Toxicol Lett 2015. [DOI: 10.1016/j.toxlet.2015.08.930] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/25/2022]
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Eilstein J, Léreaux G, Arbey E, Daronnat E, Wilkinson S, Duché D. Xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes in human skin and SkinEthic reconstructed human skin models. Exp Dermatol 2015; 24:547-9. [DOI: 10.1111/exd.12694] [Citation(s) in RCA: 16] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Accepted: 03/14/2015] [Indexed: 10/23/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- Joan Eilstein
- L'Oréal Research & Innovation; Aulnay-Sous-Bois France
| | | | - Eric Arbey
- L'Oréal Research & Innovation; Aulnay-Sous-Bois France
| | | | | | - Daniel Duché
- L'Oréal Research & Innovation; Aulnay-Sous-Bois France
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Soeur J, Eilstein J, Léreaux G, Jones C, Marrot L. Skin resistance to oxidative stress induced by resveratrol: from Nrf2 activation to GSH biosynthesis. Free Radic Biol Med 2015; 78:213-23. [PMID: 25451641 DOI: 10.1016/j.freeradbiomed.2014.10.510] [Citation(s) in RCA: 70] [Impact Index Per Article: 7.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Submit a Manuscript] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/06/2014] [Revised: 09/12/2014] [Accepted: 10/13/2014] [Indexed: 01/04/2023]
Abstract
Skin is particularly exposed to oxidative stress, either from environmental insults such as sunlight or pollution or as a consequence of specific impairments in antioxidant status resulting from pathologies or aging. Traditionally, antioxidant products are exogenously provided to neutralize pro-oxidant species. However, another approach based on stimulation of endogenous antioxidant defense pathways is more original. Resveratrol (RSV) was reported to display such a behavior in various tissues, but data about the mechanisms of action in skin are scarce. We show here that, in primary culture of normal human keratinocytes (NHKs) or in full-thickness reconstructed human skin, RSV activated the Nrf2 pathway at nontoxic doses, from 20 µM up to 100µM. Among the Nrf2 downstream genes, glutamylcysteinyl ligase and glutathione peroxidase-2 were induced at the mRNA and protein levels. In parallel, a significant increase in glutathione content, assessed by LC/MS analysis, was observed in both models. Nrf2 gene silencing experiments performed in NHKs confirmed that Nrf2 was involved in RSV-induced modulation of cellular antioxidant status, in part by increasing cellular glutathione content. Finally, improvement of endogenous defenses induced in RSV-pretreated reconstructed skin ensured protection against the toxic oxidative effects of cumene hydroperoxide (CHP). In fact after RSV pretreatment, in response to CHP stress, glutathione content did not decrease as in unprotected samples. Cellular alterations at the dermal-epidermal junction were clearly prevented. Together, these complementary experiments demonstrated the beneficial effects of RSV on skin, beyond its direct antioxidant properties, by upregulation of a cutaneous endogenous antioxidant pathway.
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Affiliation(s)
- J Soeur
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 93600 Aulnay-sous-Bois, France.
| | - J Eilstein
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 93600 Aulnay-sous-Bois, France
| | - G Léreaux
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 93600 Aulnay-sous-Bois, France
| | - C Jones
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 93600 Aulnay-sous-Bois, France
| | - L Marrot
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 93600 Aulnay-sous-Bois, France
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Eilstein J, Léreaux G, Budimir N, Hussler G, Wilkinson S, Duché D. Comparison of xenobiotic metabolizing enzyme activities in ex vivo human skin and reconstructed human skin models from SkinEthic. Arch Toxicol 2014; 88:1681-1694. [DOI: 10.1007/s00204-014-1218-6] [Citation(s) in RCA: 42] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/04/2013] [Accepted: 02/19/2014] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
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Hewitt NJ, Edwards RJ, Fritsche E, Goebel C, Aeby P, Scheel J, Reisinger K, Ouédraogo G, Duche D, Eilstein J, Latil A, Kenny J, Moore C, Kuehnl J, Barroso J, Fautz R, Pfuhler S. Use of Human In Vitro Skin Models for Accurate and Ethical Risk Assessment: Metabolic Considerations. Toxicol Sci 2013; 133:209-17. [DOI: 10.1093/toxsci/kft080] [Citation(s) in RCA: 75] [Impact Index Per Article: 6.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/12/2022] Open
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Eilstein J, Meunier PA, Manso M, Pachot J, Luu-The V, Labrie F, Meunier JR, Leclaire J, Duché D. CYP450 characterization of the reconstructed human epidermis Episkin™ involved in xenobiotic metabolism. Toxicol Lett 2008. [DOI: 10.1016/j.toxlet.2008.06.480] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/26/2022]
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Eilstein J, Arbey E, Canivet F, Meunier JR, Leclaire J, Duché D. Characterisation of oxidative deaminase activity in the reconstructed human epidermis Episkin™. Toxicol Lett 2008. [DOI: 10.1016/j.toxlet.2008.06.479] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/01/2022]
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Eilstein J, Giménez-Arnau E, Duché D, Cavusoglu N, Hussler G, Rousset F, Lepoittevin JP. Sensitization to p-amino aromatic compounds: Study of the covalent binding of 2,5-dimethyl-p-benzoquinonediimine to a model peptide by electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry. Bioorg Med Chem 2008; 16:5482-9. [DOI: 10.1016/j.bmc.2008.04.014] [Citation(s) in RCA: 20] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/05/2007] [Revised: 04/01/2008] [Accepted: 04/08/2008] [Indexed: 11/26/2022]
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Michard Q, Commo S, Belaidi JP, Alleaume AM, Michelet JF, Daronnat E, Eilstein J, Duche D, Marrot L, Bernard BA. TRP-2 specifically decreases WM35 cell sensitivity to oxidative stress. Free Radic Biol Med 2008; 44:1023-31. [PMID: 18206123 DOI: 10.1016/j.freeradbiomed.2007.11.021] [Citation(s) in RCA: 37] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Submit a Manuscript] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/17/2007] [Revised: 10/26/2007] [Accepted: 11/26/2007] [Indexed: 12/30/2022]
Abstract
TRP-2 (dopachrome tautomerase) is a melanogenic enzyme whose expression was recently reported to modulate melanocyte response to different cytotoxic events. Here we studied a possible role of TRP-2 in the oxidative stress response in the amelanotic WM35 melanoma cell line. Cell viability assays showed that TRP-2 overexpression in WM35 cells reduced their sensitivity to oxidative stress. Comet assays linked TRP-2 expression to DNA damage protection, and high-performance liquid chromotography-tandem mass spectrometry experiments showed an increase in intracellular glutathione in TRP-2-overexpressing cells. These effects were specifically reversed when TRP-2 was silenced by RNA interference. Nevertheless, these properties appeared to depend on a particular cell environment because expression of TRP-2 failed to rescue HEK epithelial cells exposed to similar treatments.
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Affiliation(s)
- Quentin Michard
- L'OREAL Recherche, 90 rue du Général Roguet, 92583 Clichy Cedex, France
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Eilstein J, Giménez-Arnau E, Duché D, Rousset F, Lepoittevin JP. Mechanistic studies on the lysine-induced N-formylation of 2,5-dimethyl-p-benzoquinonediimine. Chem Res Toxicol 2007; 20:1155-61. [PMID: 17630706 DOI: 10.1021/tx700040s] [Citation(s) in RCA: 21] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/28/2022]
Abstract
2,5-Dimethyl- p-benzoquinonediimine was used as a model to study the reactivity of p-benzoquinonediimines, the first oxidation intermediates of allergenic p-amino aromatic compounds, toward lysine, as it has been suggested that this amino acid could play a key role in the induction mechanism of allergic contact dermatitis for a number of chemicals. The use of 6-[ (13)C]lysine and Nalpha-acetyl-6-[ (13)C]lysine, in association with (13)C NMR and HPLC in tandem with mass spectrometry techniques, allowed the identification of 4-amino-2,5-dimethylformanilide, 4-amino-2,5-dimethyl[ (13)C]formanilide, and the derivative containing the amino acid covalently bound at the para position. While enzymatic N-acetylation of p-phenylenediamine (PPD) has been described in the literature, in human skin for example, to our knowledge this was the first time that N-formylation of a PPD derivative induced by the reaction with an amino acid such as lysine was observed in solution, together with the formation of an adduct with the amino acid. To afford an explanation for the lysine-induced N-formylation,we undertook mechanistic studies, and they showed that 2,5-dimethyl- p-benzoquinonediimine was involved in an oxido reduction process that is capable of deaminating the alpha-NH 2 group, even when N-acetylated, and the epsilon-NH 2 groups of lysine in an oxidative way, forming the real reactive intermediates for N-formylation. This initially unexpected behavior should be considered when investigating the reactivity of such compounds with lysine-containing peptides or proteins in the context of hapten-protein binding studies.
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Affiliation(s)
- Joan Eilstein
- Institut de Chimie de Strasbourg, Université Louis Pasteur (CNRS-ULP), Laboratoire de Dermatochimie, Clinique Dermatologique CHU, 67091 Strasbourg, France
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Eilstein J, Giménez-Arnau E, Duché D, Rousset F, Lepoittevin JP. Synthesis and Reactivity Toward Nucleophilic Amino Acids of 2,5-[13C]-Dimethyl-p-benzoquinonediimine. Chem Res Toxicol 2006; 19:1248-56. [PMID: 16978031 DOI: 10.1021/tx0601408] [Citation(s) in RCA: 39] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/28/2022]
Abstract
2,5-[(13)C]-Dimethyl-p-benzoquinonediimine was synthesized, and its reactivity toward several nucleophilic amino acids was studied by associated (13)C and (1)H{(13)C} NMR spectroscopies, combined with HPLC in tandem with mass spectrometry. A classical electrophile-nucleophile mechanism was observed for the reaction with N-acetyl-Cys. Adducts resulted from the reaction of the amino acid thiol group with the benzoquinonediimine electrophilic positions 3 and 6 as well as with the nitrogen atom of the imino group. However, N-acetyl-Trp and N-acetyl-Lys were chemically modified in the presence of 2,5-[(13)C]-dimethyl-p-benzoquinonediimine through the involvement of oxido-reduction processes. Heteronuclear (1)H{(13)C} NMR experiments allowed the identification of known oxidation intermediates derived from N-acetyl-Trp, indicating the oxidative strength of the reaction media. An adduct resulted from the reaction between the reduced form of the benzoquinonediimine and N-acetyl-formylkynurenine, which is the most known oxidation derivative of N-acetyl-Trp. In the case of N-acetyl-Lys, 4-amino-2,5-dimethyl-[(13)C]-formanilide and its derivative with N-acetyl-Lys at position 4 were obtained. A reaction mechanism was suggested in which the epsilon-NH(2) of the amino acid reacted on the electrophilic diimine to form an enamine adduct, which could then induce an oxidative deamination of N-acetyl-Lys. Further oxido-reduction mechanisms on the N-acetyl-alpha-aminoadipate-delta-semialdehyde formed might afford N,N-acetyl-formyl glutamic semialdehyde, which was considered as the powerful reactive species toward the reduced form of 2,5-[(13)C]-dimethyl-p-benzoquinonediimine. In the presence of N-acetyl-Tyr or N-acetyl-Met, the hydrolysis of the diimine parent compound was preferred, followed by a reduction to the hydroquinone form. In this study, we have thus shown that p-benzoquinonediimines, the first oxidation derivatives of allergenic p-amino aromatic compounds, can react with nucleophilic residues on amino acids through a set of complex mechanisms and must be seriously considered as potential candidates for the formation of antigenic structures responsible for allergic contact dermatitis.
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Affiliation(s)
- Joan Eilstein
- Laboratoire de Dermatochimie, Université Louis Pasteur (CNRS-UMR 7177), Clinique Dermatologique CHU, 1 Place de l'Hôpital, 67091 Strasbourg, France
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