Human filaggrin monomer does not seem to be a proteasome target

Absence of a functional proteasome in the suprabasal layers of the epidermis is responsible for keratosis linearis with ichthyosis congenital and sclerosing keratoderma syndrome. Patient epidermis shows hypergranulosis associated with abnormally shaped keratohyalin granules and abnormal distribution of filaggrin in the Stratum granulosum and Stratum corneum. This suggests that the proteasome is involved in the degradation of filaggrin. To test this hypothesis, the proteasome proteolytic activity was inhibited in 3D reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) with the specific clasto-lactacystin β-lactone inhibitor. Confirming the efficacy of inhibition, ubiquitinated proteins accumulated in treated RHEs as compared to controls. Levels of urocanic acid (UCA) and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), the end products of filaggrin degradation, were reduced. However, neither filaggrin accumulation nor appearance of filaggrin-derived peptides were observed. On the contrary, the amount of filaggrin was shown to decrease, and a similar tendency was observed for profilaggrin, its precursor. Accumulation of small cytoplasmic vesicles associated with a significant increase in autophagy markers indicated activation of the autophagy process upon proteasome inhibition. Taken together, these results suggest that the perturbation of UCA and PCA production after proteasome inhibition was probably due to down-regulation of filaggrin expression rather than to blocking of filaggrin proteolysis.

Comparison of the metabolism of 10 cosmetics-relevant chemicals in EpiSkin™ S9 subcellular fractions and in vitro human skin explants

An understanding of the bioavailability of topically applied cosmetics ingredients is key to predicting their local skin and systemic toxicity and making a safety assessment. We investigated whether short-term incubations with S9 from the reconstructed epidermal skin model, EpiSkin™, would give an indication of the rate of chemical metabolism and produce similar metabolites to those formed in incubations with human skin explants. Both have advantages: EpiSkin™ S9 is a higher-throughput assay, while the human skin explant model represents a longer incubation duration (24 hours) model integrating cutaneous distribution with metabolite formation. Here, we compared the metabolism of 10 chemicals (caffeine, vanillin, cinnamyl alcohol, propylparaben, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, resorcinol, 4-chloroaniline, 2-amino-3-methyl-3H-imidazo[4,5-F]quinoline and 2-acetyl aminofluorene) in both models. Both models were shown to have functional Phase 1 and 2 enzymes, including cytochrome P450 activities. There was a good concordance between the models with respect to the level of metabolism (stable vs. slowly vs. extensively metabolized chemicals) and major early metabolites produced for eight chemicals. Discordant results for two chemicals were attributed to a lack of the appropriate cofactor (NADP⁺ ) in S9 incubations (cinnamyl alcohol) and protein binding influencing chemical uptake in skin explants (4-chloroaniline). These data support the use of EpiSkin™ S9 as a screening assay to provide an initial indication of the metabolic stability of a chemical applied topically. If required, chemicals that are not metabolized by EpiSkin™ S9 can be tested in longer-term incubations with in vitro human explant skin to determine whether it is slowly metabolized or not metabolized at all.