Depigmenting effect of Kojic acid esters in hyperpigmented B16F1 melanoma cells

Production of kojic acid by Aspergillus flavus OL314748 using box-Behnken statistical design and its antibacterial and anticancer applications using molecular docking technique

Kojic acid is a wonderful fungal secondary metabolite that has several applications in the food, medical, and agriculture sectors. Many human diseases become resistant to normal antibiotics and normal treatments. We need to search for alternative treatment sources and understand their mode of action. Aspergillus flavus ASU45 (OL314748) was isolated from the caraway rhizosphere as a non-aflatoxin producer and identified genetically using 18S rRNA gene sequencing. After applying the Box-Behnken statistical design to maximize KA production, the production raised from 39.96 to 81.59 g/l utilizing (g/l) glucose 150, yeast extract 5, KH2PO4 1, MgSO4.7H2O 2, and medium pH 3 with a coefficient (R2) of 98.45%. Extracted KA was characterized using FTIR, XRD, and a scanning electron microscope. Crystalized KA was an effective antibacterial agent against six human pathogenic bacteria (Bacillus cereus, Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Klebsiella pneumonia, Serratia marcescens, and Serratia plymuthica). KA achieves high inhibition activity against Bacillus cereus, K. pneumonia, and S. plymuthica at 100 μg/ml concentration by 2.75, 2.85, and 2.85 compared with chloramphenicol which gives inhibition zones 1, 1.1, and 1.6, respectively. Crystalized KA had anticancer activity versus three types of cancer cell lines (Mcf-7, HepG2, and Huh7) and demonstrated high cytotoxic capabilities on HepG-2 cells that propose strong antitumor potent of KA versus hepatocellular carcinoma. The antibacterial and anticancer modes of action were illustrated using the molecular docking technique. Crystalized kojic acid from a biological source represented a promising microbial metabolite that could be utilized as an alternative antibacterial and anticancer agent effectively.

Antioxidant and Anti-Melanogenesis Effects of Teucrium chamaedrys L. Cell Suspension Extract and Its Main Phenylethanoid Glycoside in B16-F10 Cells

Teucrium chamaedrys L. is a typical European-Mediterranean species of the genus Teucrium. Among the phenolic compounds belonging to phenylethanoid glycosides (PGs), teucrioside (TS) is only found in this species, and it was previously demonstrated to be produced by in vitro-elicited cell cultures at levels higher than those found in leaves. However, T. chamaedrys cell suspension extracts (Cell-Ex) and pure TS have not been investigated yet for any biological effects. In this study, we evaluated the antioxidant and anti-melanogenesis activity of both Cell-Ex and TS in B16-F10 mouse melanoma cells. The results showed that Cell-Ex inhibited the reactive oxygen species formation evoked in B16-F10 cells by tert-butyl hydroperoxide and 5 J/cm2 of UVA, as well as the melanin increase stimulated by α-MSH or 20 J/cm2 of UVA. In parallel, a TS concentration equivalent to that present in Cell-Ex recorded the same biological effect profile, suggesting the main contribution of TS to the antioxidant and anti-melanogenic properties of Cell-Ex. Both Cell-Ex and TS also modulated the melanogenesis pathway through their ability to inhibit the tyrosinase activity both in a cell-free system and in B16-F10 cells stimulated by α-MSH. These results support the potential cosmeceutical use of Cell-Ex for protection against photooxidative damage and hyperpigmentation.

Development of kojic acid loaded collagen-chitosan nanoparticle as skin lightener product: in vitro and in vivo assessment

In the present study, an ionic gelation and ultrasonic approach was performed to produce kojic acid (KA) loaded chitosan(CS)/collagen(CN) nanoparticle(NP) (CSCN-NP) which aimed to increase the dermal delivery and anti-pigmentation effect. To optimize the CSCN-NP the effect of the amount of CN was investigated. The results showed that increasing CN from 0 to 500 mg increased the mean particle size and entrapment efficiency of KA-CSCN-NP from 266.07 ± 9.30 nm to 404.23 ± 9.44 nm and 17.37 ± 2.06% to 82.34 ± 2.16%, respectively. Differential scanning calorimetry confirmed the amorphous form of KA in CSCN-NP, while scanning electron microscopy revealed that the nanoparticles were spherical. There was no chemical interaction between KA and the other components base on attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The skin permeability test showed that KA-CSCN-NP gel delivered more KA to the dermal layers (29.16 ± 1.67% or 537.26 ± 537.26 μg/cm2) and receiver compartment (15.04 ± 1.47% or 277.15 ± 27.22 μg/cm2) compared to KA plain gel. In vitro cytotoxicity assay demonstrated that the improved KA-CSCN-NP was non-toxic. Dermal irritating test on Wistar rats showed that the KA gel was non-irritating. Furthermore, KA-CSCN-NP was found to inhibit melanin formation to a greater extent than free KA and significantly inhibited L-dopa auto-oxidation (94.80 ± 2.41%) compared to pure kojic acid solution (75.28 ± 3.22%). The observations of this study revealed that the produced KA-CSCN-NP might be used as a potential nano-vehicle for KA dermal administration, thereby opening up innovative options for the management of hyper-melanogenesis problems.

Methods of Determining Irritable Bowel Syndrome and Efficiency of Probiotics in Treatment: A Review

Background

Irritable bowel syndrome (IBS) is a prevalent lifestyle-associated ailment linked to the gut microbiota that significantly influences patients' quality of life. A notable correlation exists between Blastocystis infections and susceptibility to IBS, with infected individuals exhibiting an increased likelihood of developing the condition. Despite promising results from using probiotics to modulate the gut microbiota and manage IBS, the precise mechanisms and potential risks remain unclear.

Objective

This review aims to explore the therapeutic potential of probiotics, particularly Saccharomyces boulardii, in the management of IBS, highlighting the role of the gut microbiota and the gut-brain axis in IBS pathophysiology.

Methods

A comprehensive literature survey was conducted to examine the association between gut microbiota and IBS, the role of probiotics in managing IBS, the mechanisms of their action, and the potential risks associated with their long-term use. Additionally, this study addresses the influence of Blastocystis infections on IBS susceptibility and evaluates various ongoing clinical trials investigating probiotic use for IBS.

Results

S boulardii, a yeast species with probiotic properties, has demonstrated effectiveness in both the treatment and prophylaxis of IBS. Its administration is associated with a decrease in the proinflammatory cytokine interleukin 8 and an increase in the anti-inflammatory cytokine interleukin 10. Probiotics appear to function by inhibiting the growth of pathogenic microorganisms and regulating neurotransmitter activity, influencing the gut-brain axis. However, selecting appropriate probiotic strains and dosing regimens is crucial because of potential adverse effects, such as infections and allergic reactions.

Conclusions

Probiotics, specifically S boulardii, offer a promising avenue for IBS management by modulating gut microbiota. However, further research is necessary to delineate the precise mechanisms of action, optimal strains, dosing regimens for IBS treatment, and potential risks associated with long-term use. A comprehensive approach incorporating probiotics, a low-FODMAP diet, and cognitive-behavioral therapy may provide effective management of IBS symptoms.

Eco-friendly preparation, characterization, evaluation of anti-melanogenesis/antioxidant effect and in vitro/in vivo safety profile of kojic acid loaded niosome as skin lightener preparation

In the current study, an ultrasonic approach (as green method) was utilized to prepared kojic acid niosome (kojisome) which aimed to increase the dermal delivery and improving anti-melanogenesis properties. The study's findings demonstrated that increasing cholesterol enhanced the mean particle size from 68.333 ± 5.686 nm to 325.000 ± 15.099 nm and entrapment efficiency 0% to 39.341 ± 4.126% of the kojisome. Cholesterol may enhance the number and rigidity of bilayers that induced a size enhancement and entrapment efficiency. The skin permeability test revealed that kojisome gel had more kojic acid in dermal layers (437.563 ± 29.857 μg/cm2 or 16.624 ± 1.379%) than kojic acid plain gel (161.290 ± 14.812 μg/cm2 or 6.128 ± 0.672%). The niosome's lipophilicity allowed for gradual penetration, possibly due to better contact with the skin layers. Also, the extended-release behavior of improved kojisome exhibited high safety profile and low side effect in In vitro cytotoxicity assay, dermal irritation test, and Histo-pathological evaluation. Furthermore, optimum kojisome inhibited melanin formation (53.093 ± 2.985% at 1000 µM) higher than free kojic acid (62.383 ± 1.958%) significantly (p < 0.05). In addition, Kojisome 6 inhibited L-dopa auto-oxidation greater extent (94.806 ± 2.411%) than pure kojic acid solution (72.953 ± 2.728%). Kojisome by delivering and targeting large amount of kojic acid on specific site causes high efficacy in inhibition of melanin synthesis. The observations of this study revealed that the produced kojisome might be used as a potential nano-vehicle for kojic acid dermal administration, thereby opening up innovative options for the treatment of hyperpigmentation problems.

Long non-coding RNA-mediated competing endogenous RNA regulatory network during flower development and color formation in Melastoma candidum

M. candidum, an evergreen shrubby flower known for its superior adaptation ability in South China, has gained increased attention in garden applications. However, scant attention has been paid to its flower development and color formation process at the non-coding RNA level. To fill this gap, we conducted a comprehensive analysis based on long non-coding RNA sequencing (lncRNA-seq), RNA-seq, small RNA sequencing (sRNA-seq), and widely targeted metabolome detection of three different flower developmental stages of M. candidum. After differentially expressed lncRNAs (DElncRNAs), differentially expressed mRNAs (DEmRNAs), differentially expressed microRNAs (DEmiRNAs), and differentially synthesized metabolites (DSmets) analyses between the different flower developmental stages, Gene Ontology (GO) and Kyoto Encyclopedia of Genes and Genomes (KEGG) were conducted to identify some key genes and metabolites in flavonoid, flavone, anthocyanin, carotenoid, and alkaloid-related GO terms and biosynthetic pathways. Three direct-acting models, including antisense-acting, cis-acting, and trans-acting between lncRNAs and mRNAs, were detected to illustrate the direct function of lncRNAs on target genes during flower development and color formation. Based on the competitive endogenous RNA (ceRNA) regulatory theory, we constructed a lncRNA-mediated regulatory network composed of DElncRNAs, DEmiRNAs, DEmRNAs, and DSmets to elucidate the indirect role of lncRNAs in the flower development and color formation of M. candidum. By utilizing correlation analyses between DERNAs and DSmets within the ceRNA regulatory network, alongside verification trials of the ceRNA regulatory mechanism, the study successfully illustrated the significance of lncRNAs in flower development and color formation process. This research provides a foundation for improving and regulating flower color at the lncRNA level in M. candidum, and sheds light on the potential applications of non-coding RNA in studies of flower development.

The role of GPLD1 in chronic diseases

Glycosylphosphatidylinositol-specific phospholipase D (GPLD1) is a specific enzyme for glycosylphosphatidylinositol (GPI) anchors, thereby exerting its biological functions by cleaving membrane-associated GPI molecules. GPLD1 is abundant in serum, with a concentration of approximately 5-10 µg/mL. Previous studies have demonstrated that GPLD1 plays a crucial role in the pathogenesis of numerous chronic diseases including disorders of lipid and glucose metabolism, cancer, and neurological disorders. In the present study, we reviewed the structure, functions, and localization of GPLD1 in chronic diseases, as well as exercise-mediated regulation of GPLD1, thus providing a theoretical support to develop GPLD1 as a new therapeutic target for chronic diseases.

Fungal production of kojic acid and its industrial applications

Kojic acid has gained its importance after it was known worldwide that the substance functions primarily as skin-lightening agent. Kojic acid plays a vital role in skin care products, as it enhances the ability to prevent exposure to UV radiation. It inhibits the tyrosinase formation which suppresses hyperpigmentation in human skin. Besides cosmetics, kojic acid is also greatly used in food, agriculture, and pharmaceuticals industries. Conversely, according to Global Industry Analysts, the Middle East, Asia, and in Africa especially, the demand of whitening cream is very high, and probably the market will reach to $31.2 billion by 2024 from $17.9 billion of 2017. The important kojic acid-producing strains were mainly belongs to the genus Aspergillus and Penicillium. Due to its commercial potential, it continues to attract the attention for its green synthesis, and the studies are still widely conducted to improve kojic acid production. Thus, the present review is focused on the current production processes, gene regulation, and limitation of its commercial production, probable reasons, and possible solutions. For the first time, detailed information on the metabolic pathway and the genes involved in kojic acid production, along with illustrations of genes, are highlighted in the present review. Demand and market applications of kojic acid and its regulatory approvals for its safer use are also discussed. KEY POINTS: • Kojic acid is an organic acid that is primarily produced by Aspergillus species. • It is mainly used in the field of health care and cosmetic industries. • Kojic acid and its derivatives seem to be safe molecules for human use.

Disorders of hyperpigmentation. Part II. Review of management and treatment options for hyperpigmentation

Key challenges in the management of pigmentary disorders such as melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation are their resistance to treatment, tendency to recur after treatment, and the risk of exacerbating hyperpigmentation with many treatment modalities. The second article in this 2-part continuing medical education series on pigmentary disorders focuses on the evidence behind medical and procedural treatments of dyschromias, including photoprotection, topical lightening agents, oral agents, chemical peels, and laser therapy.

Nanoemulsion Containing Kojic Dipalmitate and Rosehip Oil: A Promising Formulation to Treat Melasma

Melasma is a hard-to-treat hyperpigmentation disorder. Combined incorporation of kojic dipalmitate (KDP), the esterified form of kojic acid, and rosehip oil, an oil with antioxidant and skin-regenerating properties, into nanocarrier systems appears to be a suitable strategy to develop high-performance formulations. A high-energy method (Ultra-Turrax^®) was used to develop nanoemulsions containing up to 2 mg/mL KDP, 5% rosehip oil, and 7.5% surfactant. Formulations were characterized regarding droplet size, size distribution, pH, density, morphology, KDP content, incorporation efficiency, and stability under different temperature conditions. A scale-up study was conducted. Skin permeation, antioxidant potential, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity were assessed in vitro. Cell viability studies were also performed. Results showed that nanoemulsions containing 1 and 2 mg/mL KDP had incorporation efficiencies greater than 95%, droplet size smaller than 130 nm, suitable size distribution, zeta potential of approximately -10 mV, and good stability over 30 days of refrigerated storage. The nanoemulsion containing 1 mg/mL KDP was chosen for further evaluation because it had lower nanocrystal formation, greater scale-up feasibility and allowed KDP permeation up to the epidermis similarly than observed for 2 mg/mL KDP. This formulation (1 mg/mL KDP) showed antioxidant and depigmenting efficacy, close to that of 1 mM ascorbic acid. No cytotoxicity was observed in formulations concentrations ranging from 0.06% to 1%.

Preclinical studies on melanogenesis proteins using a resveratrol-nanoformula as a skin whitener

A naturally occurring polyphenol called trans-resveratrol has received a lot of attention due to its possible health advantages for humans. The low solubility of trans-resveratrol and its isomerization upon UV exposure strongly limit its application as a skin-whitening agent. In the present study, to increase trans-resveratrol solubility, a new nanoformula was created by combining hydrophilic surfactants and oils. Trans-Resveratrol nanoformula has been prepared, characterized, and applied as a skin-whitening agent on the dorsal skin of Guinea pigs. The optimized trans-resveratrol nanoformula with a particle size of 63.49 nm displayed a single peak and a polydispersity index [0.36 ± 0.02]. In addition, the zeta potential of the optimized formula was -30.4 mV, confirming the high stability of this nanoformula. The melanin contents in the trans-resveratrol nanoformula-treated group were substantially lower than those of the control and the blank nanoformula-treated groups after staining of the dorsal skins [black areas] of guinea pigs with Fontana Mountain dye. The pigmentation index in the control, blank nanoformula, and optimized trans-resveratrol nanoformula were 329.4 ± 36.9, 335.8 ± 71.4, and 124.8 ± 19.6 respectively. Confirming this finding, immunohistochemistry analysis of skin tissues revealed that the expressions of melanogenesis-regulating proteins such as tyrosinase and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor were down-regulated. The safety of topical application of trans-resveratrol nanoformula was validated by no changes in free radical levels and oxidative stress markers proteins in the livers and kidneys of guinea pigs at the end of the experiment. Conclusions: A novel trans-resveratrol nanoformula as well as the mechanism whereby it promotes skin whitening effects were presented. Furthermore, the study illustrated that trans-resveratrol nanoformula is safe, non-toxic, and can be applied for skin whitening, although more research on human skin is needed.

Green preparation, characterization, evaluation of anti-melanogenesis effect and in vitro/in vivo safety profile of kojic acid hydrogel as skin lightener formulation

The local treatment of kojic acid (KA) as a tyrosinase inhibitor results in inadequate skin absorption and a number of side effects. The current study aims to maximize KA skin delivery. To produce KA-hydrogel, 1% KA was injected into a Chitosan/alginate hydrogel. The impacts of biopolymer proportion on the KA-hydrogel preparations were investigated. Swelling analysis, weight loss analysis, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), UV absorption spectroscopy, attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy were used to evaluate the KA-hydrogel. The swelling percentages of KA-hydrogel increased significantly after 4 h. After two weeks, up to 60% of the primary mass of the KA- hydrogel has been removed. By alternation in biopolymer proportion, the drug release profile of KA-hydrogel demonstrated a sustained pattern. According to the skin absorption experiment, KA-hydrogel had higher skin deposition (25.630 ± 3.350%) than KA-plain gel (5.170 ± 0.340%). Moreover, an in vitro cytotoxicity analysis for the modified KA-hydrogel preparations revealed no cytotoxic effects on HFF cell line (90%). Moreover, KA hydrogel had inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis and are comparable with KA. Furthermore, KA-hydrogel had higher inhibitory effect on L-dopa auto oxidation (94.84 ± 2.41%) in comparison KA solution (73.95 ± 3.28%). Also, the dermal irritation study on Wistar rat revealed that the hydrogel constituent used did not irritate the skin. These results revealed that the KA-hydrogel might be employed as KA local administration, thus opening up new prospects for the therapies of hyperpigmentation problems.

Enzymatic lipophilization of bioactive compounds with high antioxidant activity: a review

Food products contain bioactive compounds such as phenolic and polyphenolic compounds and vitamins, resulting in a myriad of biological characteristics such as antimicrobial, anticarcinogenic, and antioxidant activities. However, their application is often restricted because of their relatively low solubility and stability in emulsions and oil-based products. Therefore, chemical, enzymatic, or chemoenzymatic lipophilization of these compounds can be achieved by grafting a non-polar moiety onto their polar structures. Among different methods, enzymatic modification is considered environmentally friendly and may require only minor downstream processing and purification steps. In recent years, different systems have been suggested to design the synthetic reaction of these novel products. This review presents the new trends in this area by summarizing the essential enzymatic modifications in the last decade that led to the synthesis of bioactive compounds with attractive antioxidative properties for the food industry by emphasizing on optimization of the reaction conditions to maximize the production yields. Lastly, recent developments regarding characterization, potential applications, emerging research areas, and needs are highlighted.

Melanocytotoxic chemicals and their toxic mechanisms

Melanocyte cell death can lead to various melanocyte-related skin diseases including vitiligo and leukoderma. Melanocytotoxic chemicals are one of the most well-known causes of nongenetic melanocyte-related diseases, which induce melanocyte cell death through apoptosis. Various chemicals used in cosmetics, medicine, industry and food additives are known to induce melanocyte cell death, which poses a significant risk to the health of consumers and industrial workers. This review summarizes recently reported melanocytotoxic chemicals and their mechanisms of toxicity in an effort to provide insight into the development of safer chemicals.

BCI-215, a Dual-Specificity Phosphatase Inhibitor, Reduces UVB-Induced Pigmentation in Human Skin by Activating Mitogen-Activated Protein Kinase Pathways

Background: The dysregulation of melanin production causes skin-disfiguring ultraviolet (UV)-associated hyperpigmented spots. Previously, we found that the activation of c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), a mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK), inhibited melanogenesis. Methods: We selected BCI-215 as it may modify MAPK expression via a known function of a dual-specificity phosphatase (DUSP) 1/6 inhibitor. B16F10 melanoma cells, Mel-ab cells, human melanocytes, and a coculture were used to assess the anti-melanogenic activity of BCI-215. The molecular mechanisms were deciphered by assaying the melanin content and cellular tyrosinase activity via immunoblotting and RT-PCR. Results: BCI-215 was found to suppress basal and cAMP-stimulated melanin production and cellular tyrosinase activity in vitro through the downregulation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) protein and its downstream enzymes. The reduction in MITF expression caused by BCI-215 was found to be due to all three types of MAPK activation, including extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK), JNK, and p38. The degree of activation was greater in ERK. A phosphorylation of the β-catenin pathway was also demonstrated. The melanin index, expression of MITF, and downstream enzymes were well-reduced in UVB-irradiated ex vivo human skin by BCI-215. Conclusions: As BCI-215 potently inhibits UV-stimulated melanogenesis, small molecules of DUSP-related signaling modulators may provide therapeutic benefits against pigmentation disorders.

Biological activities and safety data of kojic acid and its derivatives - a review

Kojic acid presents a variety of applications for human use, especially as a depigmenting agent. Its derivatives are also proposed in order to prevent chemical degradation, prevent adverse effects and improve efficacy. The aim of this study was to peer review the current scientific literature concerning the biological activities and safety data of kojic acid or its derivatives, aiming at human use, and trying to elucidate the action mechanisms. Three different databases were assessed and the word "kojic" was crossed with "toxicity", "adverse effect", "efficacy", "effect", "activity" and "safety". Articles were selected according to pre-defined criteria. Besides the depigmenting activity, kojic acid and derivatives can act as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, radioprotector, anticonvulsant and obesity management agents, and present potential as antitumor substances. Depigmenting activity is due to the molecules, after penetrating the cell, binding to tyrosinase active site, regulating melanogenesis factors, leucocytes modulation and free radical scavenging activity. Hence, polarity, size and ligands are also important factors for activity. Kojic acid and derivatives present cytotoxicity to some cancerous cell lines, including melanoma, hepatocellular carcinoma, ovarian cancer, breast cancer and colon cancer. Regarding safety, kojic acid or its derivatives are safe molecules for human use in the concentrations tested. Kojic acid and its derivatives have great potential for cosmetic, pharmaceutical and medical applications.

Sanguinarine Regulates Tumor-Associated Macrophages to Prevent Lung Cancer Angiogenesis Through the WNT/β-Catenin Pathway

Tumor-associated macrophage (TAM)-mediated angiogenesis in the tumor microenvironment is a prerequisite for lung cancer growth and metastasis. Therefore, targeting TAMs, which block angiogenesis, is expected to be a breakthrough in controlling the growth and metastasis of lung cancer. In this study, we found that Sanguinarine (Sang) inhibits tumor growth and tumor angiogenesis of subcutaneously transplanted tumors in Lewis lung cancer mice. Furthermore, Sanguinarine inhibited the proliferation, migration, and lumen formation of HUVECs and the expression of CD31 and VEGF by regulating the polarization of M2 macrophages in vitro. However, the inhibitory effect of Sanguinarine on angiogenesis remained in vivo despite the clearance of macrophages using small molecule drugs. Further high-throughput sequencing suggested that WNT/β-Catenin signaling might represent the underlying mechanism of the beneficial effects of Sanguinarine. Finally, the β-Catenin activator SKL2001 antagonized the effect of Sanguinarine, indicating that Sanguinarine can regulate M2-mediated angiogenesis through the WNT/β-Catenin pathway. In conclusion, this study presents the first findings that Sanguinarine can function as a novel regulator of the WNT/β-Catenin pathway to modulate the M2 macrophage polarization and inhibit angiogenesis, which has potential application value in immunotherapy and antiangiogenic therapy for lung cancer.

Review on the Use of Kojic Acid—A Skin-Lightening Ingredient

This article reviews the use of Kojic Acid (KA) as a skin-lightening ingredient in the cosmetics industry. In 1907, Saito discovered KA, a natural product; it has since become one of the most investigated skin-lightening agents. This paper highlights the findings of the research conducted on this agent. It has been found that KA has certain disadvantages, and researchers have attempted to mitigate these disadvantages by designing new equivalents of KA that are more efficient in tyrosinase inhibition. These equivalents are also safe to use and have improved properties and solubility. The Cosmeceutical Ingredient Review (CIR) indicates that this ingredient can be safely used at a concentration not higher than 1% due to its cytotoxicity. Other scientific data also support its safety at a concentration of 2% or less. It was shown to be helpful in the treatment of hyper pigmentary disorders, such as freckles, age spots, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and melasma, which has been proven clinically.

Technologies for Solubility, Dissolution and Permeation Enhancement of Natural Compounds

The current review is based on the advancements in the field of natural therapeutic agents which could be utilized for a variety of biomedical applications and against various diseases and ailments. In addition, several obstacles have to be circumvented to achieve the desired therapeutic effectiveness, among which limited dissolution and/or solubility and permeability are included. To counteract these issues, several advancements in the field of natural therapeutic substances needed to be addressed. Therefore, in this review, the possible techniques for the dissolution/solubility and permeability improvements have been addressed which could enhance the dissolution and permeability up to several times. In addition, the conventional and modern isolation and purification techniques have been emphasized to achieve the isolation and purification of single or multiple therapeutic constituents with convenience and smarter approaches. Moreover, a brief overview of advanced natural compounds with multiple therapeutic effectiveness have also been anticipated. In brief, enough advancements have been carried out to achieve safe, effective and economic use of natural medicinal agents with improved stability, handling and storage.

Implications of Oxidative Stress in the Pathogenesis and Treatment of Hyperpigmentation Disorders

Oxidative stress represents an imbalance between the generation of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species and the ability of antioxidant systems to decompose those products. Oxidative stress is implicated in the pathogenesis of hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, melanoma, and other skin diseases. Regulatory networks involving oxidative stress and related pathways are widely represented in hypopigmentation diseases, particularly vitiligo. However, there is no complete review into the role of oxidative stress in the pathogenesis of hyperpigmentation disorders, especially regarding associations involving oxidative stress and cellular signaling pathways. Here, we review oxidative and antioxidant systems, oxidative stress-induced signal transduction mechanisms, and effects of antioxidant drugs used in preclinical and clinical settings in hyperpigmentation disorders.

Regioselective Enzymatic Synthesis of Kojic Acid Monoesters

Kojic acid is a fungal metabolite and one of the strongest tyrosinase inhibitors. Its esters are used as lipid-compatible skin whitening components in cosmetic formulations. In this study, lipase PS, lipase AK, Lipolyve AN and pig pancreatic lipase catalyzed the acetylation of kojic acid under selective formation of the same product, kojic 7-acetate. However, the enzymes differed in their regioselectivity when catalyzing the alcoholysis of kojic acid diacetate. While lipase PS and lipase AK produced mixtures of both monoacetate regioisomers (7-acetate and 5-acetate of kojic acid), the pancreatic lipase almost exclusively produced 5-acetate. The enzyme displayed the same regioselectivity in the palmitoylation of kojic acid and in the alcoholysis of kojic acid dipalmitate. Simple reaction engineering with PPL as a catalyst thus provides the complementary monoesters of kojic acid. Kojic 7-acetate, 5-acetate, 7-palmitate and 5-palmitate were prepared with yields after purification of 57.3%, 38.2%, 31.7% and 31.4%, respectively.

Evaluation of 4-(4-Fluorobenzyl)piperazin-1-yl]-Based Compounds as Competitive Tyrosinase Inhibitors Endowed with Antimelanogenic Effects

There is a considerable attention for the development of inhibitors of tyrosinase (TYR) as therapeutic strategy for the treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders in humans. Continuing in our efforts to identify TYR inhibitors, we describe the design, synthesis and pharmacophore exploration of new small molecules structurally characterized by the presence of the 4-fluorobenzylpiperazine moiety as key pharmacophoric feature for the inhibition of TYR from Agaricus bisporus (AbTYR). Our investigations resulted in the discovery of the competitive inhibitor [4-(4-fluorobenzyl)piperazin-1-yl]-(3-chloro-2-nitro-phenyl)methanone 26 (IC50 =0.18 μM) that proved to be ∼100-fold more active than reference compound kojic acid (IC50 =17.76 μM). Notably, compound 26 exerted antimelanogenic effect on B16F10 cells in absence of cytotoxicity. Docking analysis suggested its binding mode into AbTYR and into modelled human TYR.

Design, synthesis, and biological evaluation of symmetrical azine derivatives as novel tyrosinase inhibitors

A series of symmetrical azine derivatives containing different substituted benzyl moieties were designed, synthesized, and evaluated for their inhibitory activity against tyrosinase. The results showed that compounds 3e, 3f, 3h, 3i, 3j, and 3k possess effective tyrosinase inhibition with IC₅₀ values ranging from 7.30 μM to 62.60 μM. Particularly, compounds 3f displayed around three-fold improvement in the potency (IC₅₀ = 7.30 ± 1.15 μM) compared to that of kojic acid (IC₅₀ = 20.24 ± 2.28 μM) as the positive control. Kinetic study of compound 3f confirmed uncompetitive inhibitory activity towards tyrosinase indicating that it can bind to enzyme–substrate complex. Next, molecular docking analysis was performed to study the interactions and binding mode of the most potent compound 3f in the tyrosinase active site. Besides, the cytotoxicity of 3f, as well as its potency to reduce the melanin content were also measured on invasive melanoma B16F10 cell line. Also, 3f exhibited above 82% cell viability in the A375 cell line at 10 µM. Consequently, compounds 3f could be introduced as a potent tyrosinase inhibitor that might be a promising candidate in the cosmetics, medicine, and food industry.

Antioxidative and Anti-inflammatory Effects of Kojic Acid in Aβ-Induced Mouse Model of Alzheimer's Disease

Alzheimer's disease (AD) is a common cause of dementia that is clinically characterized by the loss of memory and cognitive functions. Currently, there is no specific cure for the management of AD, although natural compounds are showing promising therapeutic potentials because of their safety and easy availability. Herein, we evaluated the neuroprotective properties of kojic acid (KA) in an AD mouse model. Intracerebroventricular injection (i.c.v) of Aβ_1-42 (5 μL/5 min/mouse) into wild-type adult mice induced AD-like pathological changes in the mouse hippocampus by increasing oxidative stress and neuroinflammation, affecting memory and cognitive functions. Interestingly, oral treatment of kojic acid (50 mg/kg/mouse for 3 weeks) reversed the AD pathology by reducing the expression of amyloid-beta (Aβ) and beta-site amyloid precursor protein cleaving enzyme1 (BACE-1). Moreover, kojic acid reduced oxidative stress by enhancing the expression of nuclear factor erythroid-related factor 2 (Nrf2) and heme oxygenase 1 (HO1). Also, kojic acid reduced the lipid peroxidation and reactive oxygen species in the Aβ + kojic acid co-treated mice brains. Moreover, kojic acid decreased neuroinflammation by inhibiting Toll-like receptor 4, phosphorylated nuclear factor-κB, tumor necrosis factor-alpha, interleukin 1-beta (TLR-4, p-NFκB, TNFα, and IL-1β, respectively), and glial cells. Furthermore, kojic acid enhanced synaptic markers (SNAP-23, SYN, and PSD-95) and memory functions in AD model mice. Additionally, kojic acid treatment also decreased Aβ expression, oxidative stress, and neuroinflammation in vitro in HT-22 mouse hippocampal cells. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study to show the neuroprotective effects of kojic acid against an AD mouse model. Our findings could serve as a favorable and alternative strategy for the discovery of novel drugs to treat AD-related neurodegenerative conditions.

Mutated Shiitake extracts inhibit melanin-producing neural crest-derived cells in zebrafish embryo

The ability of natural extracts to inhibit melanocyte activity is of great interest to researchers. This study evaluates and explores the ability of mutated Shiitake (A37) and wildtype Shiitake (WE) extract to inhibit this activity. Several properties such as total phenolic (TPC) and total flavonoid content (TFC), antioxidant activity, effect on cell and component profiling were conducted. While having no significant differences in total phenolic content, mutation resulted in A37 having a TFC content (1.04 ± 0.7 mg/100 ml) compared to WE (0.86 ± 0.9 mg/100 ml). Despite that, A37 extract has lower antioxidant activity (EC50, A37 = 549.6 ± 2.70 μg/ml) than WE (EC50 = 52.8 ± 1.19 μg/ml). Toxicity tests on zebrafish embryos show that both extracts, stop the embryogenesis process when the concentration used exceeds 900 μg/ml. Although both extracts showed pigmentation reduction in zebrafish embryos, A37 extract showed no effect on embryo heartbeat. Cell cycle studies revealed that WE significantly affect the cell cycle while A37 not. Further tests found that these extracts inhibit the phosphorylation of Glycogen synthase kinase 3 β (pGSK3β) in HS27 cell line, which may explain the activation of apoptosis in melanin-producing cells. It was found that from 19 known compounds, 14 compounds were present in both WE and A37 extracts. Interestingly, the presence of decitabine in A37 extract makes it very potential for use in the medical application such as treatment of melanoma, skin therapy and even cancer.

Pigmentation Levels Affect Melanoma Responses to Coriolus versicolor Extract and Play a Crucial Role in Melanoma-Mononuclear Cell Crosstalk

Melanoma, the malignancy originating from pigment-producing melanocytes, is the most aggressive form of skin cancer and has a poor prognosis once the disease starts to metastasize. The process of melanin synthesis generates an immunosuppressive and mutagenic environment, and can increase melanoma cell resistance to different treatment modalities, including chemo-, radio- or photodynamic therapy. Recently, we have shown that the presence of melanin pigment inhibits the melanoma cell response to bioactive components of Coriolus versicolor (CV) Chinese fungus. Herein, using the same human melanoma cell line in which the level of pigmentation can be controlled by the L-tyrosine concentration in culture medium, we tested the effect of suppression of melanogenesis on the melanoma cell response to CV extract and investigated the cell death pathway induced by fungus extract in sensitized melanoma cells. Our data showed that susceptibility to CV-induced melanoma cell death is significantly increased after cell depigmentation. To the best of our knowledge, we are the first to demonstrate that CV extract can induce RIPK1/RIPK3/MLKL-mediated necroptosis in depigmented melanoma cells. Moreover, using the co-culture system, we showed that inhibition of the tyrosinase activity in melanoma cells modulates cytokine expression in co-cultured mononuclear cells, indicating that depigmentation of melanoma cells may activate immune cells and thereby influence a host anticancer response.

Lipopeptides production by a newly Halomonas venusta strain: Characterization and biotechnological properties

A halotolerant marine strain PHKT of Halomonas venusta was isolated from contaminated seawater as an efficient biosurfactant producer candidate, on low-value substrate (glycerol). The produced biosurfactants (Bios-PHKT) were characterized as lipopeptides molecules, belonging to surfactin and pumilacidin families, by using Thin Layer Chromatography (TLC), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FT-IR) and Tandem Mass Spectrometry (MALDI-TOF/MS-MS). Bios-PHKT has a critical micelle concentration (CMC) of 125 mg/L, and showed a high steadiness against a wide spectrum of salinity (0-120 g/L NaCl), temperature (4-121 °C) and pH (2-12), supporting its powerful tensioactive properties under various environmental conditions. Likewise, the cytotoxic test revealed that the biosurfactant Bios-PHKT, at concentrations lower than 125 µg/mL, was not cytotoxic for human HEK-293 cells since the cell survival is over than 80%. Furthermore, Bios-PHKT lipopeptides showed excellent anti-adhesive and anti-biofilm activities, being able to avoid and disrupt the biofilm formation by certain pathogenic microorganisms. In addition, the biosurfactant Bios-PHKT showed a remarkable anti-proliferative activity towards tumor B16 melanoma cell line. Besides, Bios-PHKT exhibited an excellent in vitro and in vivo wound healing process. In light of these promising findings, Bios-PHKT could be successfully used in different biotechnological applications.

A comprehensive review of the therapeutic potential of α-arbutin

Cosmetic dermatology preparations such as bleaching agents are ingredients with skin-related biological activities for increasing and improving skin beauty. The possibility of controlling skin hyperpigmentation disorders is one of the most important research goals in cosmetic preparations. Recently, cosmetics containing herbal and botanical ingredients have attracted many interests for consumers of cosmetic products because these preparations are found safer than other preparations with synthetic components. However, high-quality trial studies in larger samples are needed to confirm safety and clinical efficacy of phytotherapeutic agents with high therapeutic index. Arbutin (p-hydroxyphenyl-β-d-glucopyranoside) is a bioactive hydrophilic polyphenol with two isomers including alpha-arbutin (4-hydroxyphenyl-α-glucopyranoside) and β-arbutin (4-hydroxyphenyl-β-glucopyranoside). It is used as a medicinal plant in phytopharmacy. Studies have shown that alpha-arbutin is 10 times more effective than natural arbutin. A comparison of IC50 values showed that α-arbutin (with concentration 2.0 mM) has a more potent inhibitory activity on human tyrosinase against natural arbutin (with higher concentration than 30 mM). A review of recent studies showed that arbutin could be beneficial in treatment of various diseases such as hyperpigmentation disorders, types of cancers, central nervous system disorders, osteoporosis, diabetes, etc. This study was designed to describe the therapeutic efficiencies of arbutin.

Effect of Addition of PVA/PG to Oil-in-Water Nanoemulsion Kojic Monooleate Formulation on Droplet Size: Three-Factors Response Surface Optimization and Characterization

An oil in water (O/W) nanoemulsion formulation containing kojic monooleate (KMO) in thin film system was developed. Response surface methodology (RSM) was used to optimize and analyzed the effect of three variables, namely concentration of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) (20–30% w/w), concentration of propylene glycol (PG) (1–10% w/w), and shear rate of high shear homogenizer (3000–9000 rpm) on droplet size as a response, while other compositions remained constant such as KMO (10.0% w/w), Tween 80 (3.19% w/w), castor oil (3.74% w/w), xanthan gum (0.70% w/w), and germall plus (0.7% w/w, PG (and) diazolidinyl urea (and) iodopropynyl butylcarbamate). The optimized KMO nanoemulsion formulation with desirable criteria was PVA (27.61% w/w) and PG (1.05% w/w), and shear rate (8656.17 rpm) with a predicted droplet size (110.21 nm) and actual droplet size (105.93 nm) with a residual standard error (RSE) of less than 2.0% was obtained. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) showed that the fitness of the quadratic polynomial fit the experimental data with a F-value of 65.30, p–value of p < 0.0001, and a non-significant lack-of-fit. The optimized KMO formulation shows the desired criteria of the thin film system and the physicochemical properties (Zeta potential −37.37 mV, PDI 0.13, pH 4.74) and stability at four different conditions indicate its suitability for cosmeceutical applications.

Dual-Agent Photodynamic Therapy with Optical Clearing Eradicates Pigmented Melanoma in Preclinical Tumor Models

Treatment using light-activated photosensitizers (photodynamic therapy, PDT) has shown limited efficacy in pigmented melanoma, mainly due to the poor penetration of light in this tissue. Here, an optical clearing agent (OCA) was applied topically to a cutaneous melanoma model in mice shortly before PDT to increase the effective treatment depth by reducing the light scattering. This was used together with cellular and vascular-PDT, or a combination of both. The effect on tumor growth was measured by longitudinal ultrasound/photoacoustic imaging in vivo and by immunohistology after sacrifice. In a separate dorsal window chamber tumor model, angiographic optical coherence tomography (OCT) generated 3D tissue microvascular images, enabling direct in vivo assessment of treatment response. The optical clearing had minimal therapeutic effect on the in control, non-pigmented cutaneous melanomas but a statistically significant effect (p < 0.05) in pigmented lesions for both single- and dual-photosensitizer treatment regimes. The latter enabled full-depth eradication of tumor tissue, demonstrated by the absence of S100 and Ki67 immunostaining. These studies are the first to demonstrate complete melanoma response to PDT in an immunocompromised model in vivo, with quantitative assessment of tumor volume and thickness, confirmed by (immuno) histological analyses, and with non-pigmented melanomas used as controls to clarify the critical role of melanin in the PDT response. The results indicate the potential of OCA-enhanced PDT for the treatment of pigmented lesions, including melanoma.

Randomized double-blind vehicle controlled study of the effects of topical acetyl zingerone on photoaging

OBJECTIVE

Acetyl zingerone (AZ), a derivative of the phytochemical zingerone from Zingiber officinale (ginger), is a novel compound that is purported to have antiaging properties. The objective of this clinical study was to assess the role of acetyl zingerone in its ability to improve the appearance of facial skin wrinkles, redness, pigmentation, and photoaging was assessed.

METHODS

Thirty-one healthy participants (age 44 ± 7 years) were randomized in blinded fashion to apply either 1% AZ or placebo, consisting of the vehicle base cream, to the full face twice daily for 8 weeks with a total of 3 visits. Signs of photoaging, including wrinkles, dyspigmentation, and redness were assessed with facial image analysis photography and software.

RESULTS

There was a significant decrease in average wrinkle severity (P = .019; Mean=-25.7% change), total wrinkle volume (P = .003; Mean=-30.1% change), pigment intensity (P = .021; Mean=-25.6% change), and redness intensity (P = .035; Mean=-20.7% change) in the AZ group by 8 weeks compared with the placebo. No significant itching, burning, or stinging was noted by study participants. There was also no significant difference between both groups in the clinical assessment of scaling, erythema, hypopigmentation, or hyperpigmentation.

CONCLUSIONS AND RELEVANCE

Topical AZ improves photodamage and decreases the appearance of wrinkles, dyspigmentation, and redness intensity when compared to placebo (vehicle) formulation. Acetyl zingerone is well tolerated with daily use.

An Improved Nanoemulsion Formulation Containing Kojic Monooleate: Optimization, Characterization and In Vitro Studies

Tyrosinase inhibitors have become increasingly important targets for hyperpigmentation disease treatment. Kojic monooleate (KMO), synthesized from the esterification of kojic acid and oleic acid, has shown a better depigmenting effect than kojic acid. In this study, the process parameters include the speed of high shear, the time of high shear and the speed of the stirrer in the production of nanoemulsion containing KMO was optimized using Response Surface Methodology (RSM), as well as evaluated in terms of its physicochemical properties, safety and efficacy. The optimized condition for the formulation of KMO nanoemulsion was 8.04 min (time of high shear), 4905.42 rpm (speed of high shear), and 271.77 rpm (speed of stirrer), which resulted in a droplet size of 103.97 nm. An analysis of variance (ANOVA) showed that the fitness of the quadratic polynomial fit the experimental data with large F-values (148.79) and small p-values (p < 0.0001) and an insignificant lack of fit. The optimized nanoemulsion containing KMO with a pH value of 5.75, showed a high conductivity value (3.98 mS/cm), which indicated that the nanoemulsion containing KMO was identified as an oil-in-water type of nanoemulsion. The nanoemulsion remains stable (no phase separation) under a centrifugation test and displays accelerated stability during storage at 4, 25 and 45 °C over 90 days. The cytotoxicity assay showed that the optimized nanoemulsion was less toxic, with a 50% inhibition of cell viability (IC₅₀) > 500 μg/mL, and that it can inhibit 67.12% of tyrosinase activity. This study reveals that KMO is a promising candidate for the development of a safe cosmetic agent to prevent hyperpigmentation.

Biotechnology Applied to Cosmetics and Aesthetic Medicines

Biotechnology uses microorganisms and/or enzymes to obtain specific products through fermentative processes and/or genetic engineering techniques. Examples of these products are active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, kojic acid, resveratrol, and some enzymes, which are used in skin anti-aging products. In addition, certain growth factors, algae, stem cells, and peptides have been included in cosmetics and aesthetic medicines. Thus, biotechnology, cosmetics and aesthetic medicines are now closely linked, through the production of high-quality active ingredients, which are more effective and safer. This work describes the most used active ingredients that are produced from biotechnological processes. Although there are a vast number of active ingredients, the number of biotechnological active ingredients reported in the literature is not significantly high.

Efficacy and Safety of Probiotics in Irritable Bowel Syndrome: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis

Background

Irritable bowel syndrome is a functional gastrointestinal disease. Evidence has suggested that probiotics may benefit IBS symptoms. However, clinical trials remain conflicting.

Aims

To implement a systematic review and meta-analysis of clinical trials regarding the efficacy and safety of probiotics for IBS patients.

Methods

We searched for relevant trials in Medline(1966 to Jan 2019), Embase(1974 to Jan 2019), the Cochrane Central Register of Controlled Trials(up to Jan 2019), the ClinicalTrials.gov trials register(up to Jan 2019), and Chinese Biomedical Literature Database(1978 to Jan 2019). Risk ratio (RR) and a 95% confidence interval (CI) were calculated for dichotomous outcomes. Standardized mean difference (SMD) and 95% CI were calculated for continuous outcomes.

Results

A total of 59 studies, including 6,761 patients, were obtained. The RR of the improvement or response with probiotics versus placebo was 1.52 (95% CI 1.32-1.76), with significant heterogeneity (I² = 71%, P < 0.001). The SMD of Probiotics in improving global IBS symptoms vs. Placebo was -1.8(95% CI -0.30 to -0.06), with significant heterogeneity (I² = 65%, P < 0.001). It was impossible to draw a determinate conclusion. However, there were differences in subgroup analyses of probiotics type, dose, treatment duration, and geographic position. Probiotics seem to be safe by the analysis of adverse events(RR = 1.07; 95% CI 0.92-1.24; I² = 0, P = 0.83).

Conclusion

Probiotics are effective and safe for IBS patients. Single probiotics with a higher dose (daily dose of probiotics ≥10¹⁰) and shorter duration (< 8 weeks) seem to be a better choice, but it still needs more trials to prove it.

A chemical compound from fruit extract of Juglans mandshurica inhibits melanogenesis through p-ERK-associated MITF degradation

BACKGROUND

Trials for regulation of abnormal hyperpigmentation from the use of natural products have been going on for years. Leaf and root extracts from Juglans mandshurica are reported to function as antioxidants and to suppress allergic dermatitis. However, studies evaluating its fruit extract and the chemical compounds from the fruit extract are lacking in dermatology fields, including melanogenesis.

PURPOSE

The aim of this study is to understand the effect of the fruit extract from J. mandshurica on pigmentation and to search for specific chemical compounds that affect melanogenesis.

METHODS

After screening out any anti-melanotic effects of the fruit extract from J. mandshurica in B16F10 melanoma cells, three major phenolic compounds isolated from the fruit extract were tested by western blot analysis for expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase. Their effect on B16F10 melanoma cells with regard to melanogenesis was also confirmed in primary human epidermal melanocytes (PHEMs). PD98059 was tested to observe the compounds' signaling role in the extracellular signal-regulated protein kinase (ERK)-pathway.

RESULTS

Fruit extract from J. mandshurica showed anti-melanotic effects in B16F10 melanoma cells. After chemical compounds were isolated from the fruit extracts, three phenolic compounds were evaluated for anti-melanotic effects. 2-[4-(3-hydroxypropyl)-2-methoxyphenoxy]-1,3-propanediol (compound 1) showed the highest suppression effect among the three compounds. In B16F10 melanoma cells and PHEMs, reduced melanin contents were observed after treatment with the compound (1). Experiments using a blocker of ERK showed that the inhibitory effect of the compound (1) on melanogenesis was dependent on ERK-associated MITF degradation.

CONCLUSION

A chemical constituent of Juglans mandshurica Maxim. induces an inhibitory mechanism to melanogenesis. It has the potential to become a whitening agent in the medical field, though this requires further clinical investigation.

Discovery of new depigmenting compounds and their efficacy to treat hyperpigmentation: Evidence from in vitro study

Human skin pigmentation is a result of constitutive and facultative pigmentation. Facultative pigmentation is frequently stimulated by UV radiation, pharmacologic drugs, and hormones whereby leads to the development of abnormal skin hyperpigmentation. To date, many state-of-art depigmenting compounds have been studied using in vitro model to treat hyperpigmentation problems for cosmetic dermatological applications; little attention has been made to compare the effectiveness of these depigmenting compounds and their mode of actions. In this present article, new and recent depigmenting compounds, their melanogenic pathway targets, and modes of action are reviewed. This article compares the effectiveness of these new depigmenting compounds to modulate several melanogenesis-regulatory enzymes and proteins such as tyrosinase (TYR), TYR-related protein-1 (TRP1), TYR-related protein-2 (TRP2), microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and N-terminal kinases (JNK) and mitogen-activated protein kinase p38 (p38 MAPK). Other evidences from in vitro assays such as inhibition on melanosomal transfer, proteasomes, nitric oxide, and inflammation-induced melanogenesis are also highlighted. This article also reviews analytical techniques in different assays performed using in vitro model as well as their advantages and limitations. This article also provides an insight on recent finding and re-examination of some protocols as well as their effectiveness and reliability in the evaluation of depigmenting compounds. Evidence and support from related patents are also incorporated in this present article to give an overview on current patented technology, latest trends, and intellectual values of some depigmenting compounds and protocols, which are rarely highlighted in the literatures.

New oral and topical approaches for the treatment of melasma

Melasma is a common, therapeutically challenging, and universally relapsing disorder of hyperpigmentation that is most often observed in women and individuals with Fitzpatrick Skin Types III through VI. The pathogenesis of melasma is complex and protean. Contributing factors that are often implicated in the etiopathogenesis of this condition include a genetic predisposition, intense ultraviolet radiation exposure, and hormonal influences. Therapeutic interventions for melasma include a multimodality approach incorporating photoprotection agents, topical and oral skin lighteners, and resurfacing procedures. Given our expanding knowledge of the pathogenesis of melasma, new and effective treatments are expanding our therapeutic armamentarium. This article reviews new and emerging oral and topical treatments for melasma.

Development of a kojic monooleate-enriched oil-in-water nanoemulsion as a potential carrier for hyperpigmentation treatment

Introduction

Kojic monooleate (KMO) is an ester derived from a fungal metabolite of kojic acid with monounsaturated fatty acid, oleic acid, which contains tyrosinase inhibitor to treat skin disorders such as hyperpigmentation. In this study, KMO was formulated in an oil-in-water nanoemulsion as a carrier for better penetration into the skin.

Methods

The nanoemulsion was prepared by using high and low energy emulsification technique. D-optimal mixture experimental design was generated as a tool for optimizing the composition of nanoemulsions suitable for topical delivery systems. Effects of formulation variables including KMO (2.0%–10.0% w/w), mixture of castor oil (CO):lemon essential oil (LO; 9:1) (1.0%–5.0% w/w), Tween 80 (1.0%–4.0% w/w), xanthan gum (0.5%–1.5% w/w), and deionized water (78.8%–94.8% w/w), on droplet size as a response were determined.

Results

Analysis of variance showed that the fitness of the quadratic polynomial fits the experimental data with F-value (2,479.87), a low P-value (P<0.0001), and a nonsignificant lack of fit. The optimized formulation of KMO-enriched nanoemulsion with desirable criteria was KMO (10.0% w/w), Tween 80 (3.19% w/w), CO:LO (3.74% w/w), xanthan gum (0.70% w/w), and deionized water (81.68% w/w). This optimum formulation showed good agreement between the actual droplet size (110.01 nm) and the predicted droplet size (111.73 nm) with a residual standard error <2.0%. The optimized formulation with pH values (6.28) showed high conductivity (1,492.00 µScm⁻¹) and remained stable under accelerated stability study during storage at 4°C, 25°C, and 45°C for 90 days, centrifugal force as well as freeze–thaw cycles. Rheology measurement justified that the optimized formulation was more elastic (shear thinning and pseudo-plastic properties) rather than demonstrating viscous characteristics. In vitro cytotoxicity of the optimized KMO formulation and KMO oil showed that IC₅₀ (50% inhibition of cell viability) value was >100 µg/mL.

Conclusion

The survival rate of 3T3 cell on KMO formulation (54.76%) was found to be higher compared to KMO oil (53.37%) without any toxicity sign. This proved that the KMO formulation was less toxic and can be applied for cosmeceutical applications.

A Zebrafish Embryo as an Animal Model for the Treatment of Hyperpigmentation in Cosmetic Dermatology Medicine

For years, clinical studies involving human volunteers and several known pre-clinical in vivo models (i.e., mice, guinea pigs) have demonstrated their reliability in evaluating the effectiveness of a number of depigmenting agents. Although these models have great advantages, they also suffer from several drawbacks, especially involving ethical issues regarding experimentation. At present, a new depigmenting model using zebrafish has been proposed and demonstrated. The application of this model for screening and studying the depigmenting activity of many bioactive compounds has been given great attention in genetics, medicinal chemistry and even the cosmetic industry. Depigmenting studies using this model have been recognized as noteworthy approaches to investigating the antimelanogenic activity of bioactive compounds in vivo. This article details the current knowledge of zebrafish pigmentation and its reliability as a model for the screening and development of depigmenting agents. Several methods to quantify the antimelanogenic activity of bioactive compounds in this model, such as phenotype-based screening, melanin content, tyrosinase inhibitory activity, other related proteins and transcription genes, are reviewed. Depigmenting activity of several bioactive compounds which have been reported towards this model are compared in terms of their molecular structure and possible mode of actions. This includes patented materials with regard to the application of zebrafish as a depigmenting model, in order to give an insight of its intellectual value. At the end of this article, some limitations are highlighted and several recommendations are suggested for improvement of future studies.

Kinetics and Optimization of Lipophilic Kojic Acid Derivative Synthesis in Polar Aprotic Solvent Using Lipozyme RMIM and Its Rheological Study

The synthesis of kojic acid derivative (KAD) from kojic and palmitic acid (C16:0) in the presence of immobilized lipase from Rhizomucor miehei (commercially known as Lipozyme RMIM), was studied using a shake flask system. Kojic acid is a polyfunctional heterocycles that acts as a source of nucleophile in this reaction allowing the formation of a lipophilic KAD. In this study, the source of biocatalyst, Lipozyme RMIM, was derived from the lipase of Rhizomucor miehei immobilized on weak anion exchange macro-porous Duolite ES 562 by the adsorption technique. The effects of solvents, enzyme loading, reaction temperature, and substrate molar ratio on the reaction rate were investigated. In one-factor-at-a-time (OFAT) experiments, a high reaction rate (30.6 × 10⁻³ M·min⁻¹) of KAD synthesis was recorded using acetone, enzyme loading of 1.25% (w/v), reaction time of 12 h, temperature of 50 °C and substrate molar ratio of 5:1. Thereafter, a yield of KAD synthesis was optimized via the response surface methodology (RSM) whereby the optimized molar ratio (fatty acid: kojic acid), enzyme loading, reaction temperature and reaction time were 6.74, 1.97% (w/v), 45.9 °C, and 20 h respectively, giving a high yield of KAD (64.47%). This condition was reevaluated in a 0.5 L stirred tank reactor (STR) where the agitation effects of two impellers; Rushton turbine (RT) and pitch-blade turbine (PBT), were investigated. In the STR, a very high yield of KAD synthesis (84.12%) was achieved using RT at 250 rpm, which was higher than the shake flask, thus indicating better mixing quality in STR. In a rheological study, a pseudoplastic behavior of KAD mixture was proposed for potential application in lotion formulation.

Realm of Thermoalkaline Lipases in Bioprocess Commodities

For decades, microbial lipases are notably used as biocatalysts and efficiently catalyze various processes in many important industries. Biocatalysts are less corrosive to industrial equipment and due to their substrate specificity and regioselectivity they produced less harmful waste which promotes environmental sustainability. At present, thermostable and alkaline tolerant lipases have gained enormous interest as biocatalyst due to their stability and robustness under high temperature and alkaline environment operation. Several characteristics of the thermostable and alkaline tolerant lipases are discussed. Their molecular weight and resistance towards a range of temperature, pH, metal, and surfactants are compared. Their industrial applications in biodiesel, biodetergents, biodegreasing, and other types of bioconversions are also described. This review also discusses the advance of fermentation process for thermostable and alkaline tolerant lipases production focusing on the process development in microorganism selection and strain improvement, culture medium optimization via several optimization techniques (i.e., one-factor-at-a-time, surface response methodology, and artificial neural network), and other fermentation parameters (i.e., inoculums size, temperature, pH, agitation rate, dissolved oxygen tension (DOT), and aeration rate). Two common fermentation techniques for thermostable and alkaline tolerant lipases production which are solid-state and submerged fermentation methods are compared and discussed. Recent optimization approaches using evolutionary algorithms (i.e., Genetic Algorithm, Differential Evolution, and Particle Swarm Optimization) are also highlighted in this article.

Are Natural Ingredients Effective in the Management of Hyperpigmentation? A Systematic Review

BACKGROUND: Hyperpigmentation disorders are commonly encountered in dermatology clinics. Botanical and natural ingredients have gained popularity as alternative depigmenting products. OBJECTIVE: We sought to review clinical studies evaluating the use of different natural products in treating hyperpigmentation so clinicians are better equipped to educate their patients. Specific ingredients reviewed include azelaic acid, aloesin, mulberry, licorice extracts, lignin peroxidase, kojic acid, niacinamide, ellagic acid, arbutin, green tea, turmeric, soy, and ascorbic acid. METHODS: Systematic searches of PubMed and SCOPUS databases were performed in March 2016 using the various ingredient names, "melasma"and "hyperpigmentation." Two reviewers independently screened titles, leading to the selection of 30 clinical studies. RESULTS: Review of the literature revealed few clinical trials that evaluated the treatment of hyperpigmentation with natural ingredients. Despite the limited evidence-based research, several natural ingredients did show efficacy as depigmenting agents, including azelaic acid, soy, lignin peroxidase, ascorbic acid iontophoresis, arbutin, ellagic acid, licorice extracts, niacinamide, and mulberry. CONCLUSION: The aforementioned ingredients show promise as natural treatments for patients with hyperpigmentation disorders. These agents might also provide clinicians and researchers with a way to further characterize the pathogenesis of dyschromia. However, the paucity of clinical studies is certainly a limitation. Additionally, many of the in-vivo studies are limited by the short length of the trials, and questions remain about the long-term efficacy and safety of the ingredients used in these studies. Lastly, we suggest a standardized objective scoring system be implemented in any further comparative studies.

Biodegradable Kojic Acid-Based Polymers: Controlled Delivery of Bioactives for Melanogenesis Inhibition

Kojic acid (KA) is a naturally occurring fungal metabolite that is utilized as a skin-lightener and antibrowning agent owing to its potent tyrosinase inhibition activity. While efficacious, KA's inclination to undergo pH-mediated, thermal-, and photodegradation reduces its efficacy, necessitating stabilizing vehicles. To minimize degradation, poly(carbonate-esters) and polyesters comprised of KA and natural diacids were prepared via solution polymerization methods. In vitro hydrolytic degradation analyses revealed KA release was drastically influenced by polymer backbone composition (e.g., poly(carbonate-ester) vs polyester), linker molecule (aliphatic vs heteroatom-containing), and release conditions (physiological vs skin). Tyrosinase inhibition assays demonstrated that aliphatic KA dienols, the major degradation product under skin conditions, were more potent then KA itself. All dienols were found to be less toxic than KA at all tested concentrations. Additionally, the most lipophilic dienols were statistically more effective than KA at inhibiting melanin biosynthesis in cells. These KA-based polymer systems deliver KA analogues with improved efficacy and cytocompatible profiles, making them ideal candidates for sustained topical treatments in both medical and personal care products.