Sun-induced changes in stratum corneum function are gender and dose dependent in a Chinese population

Preventive and Therapeutic Benefits of Natural Ingredients in Photo-Induced Epidermal Dysfunction

BACKGROUND

The skin, particularly the epidermis, is subjected to various external stresses, including ultraviolet (UV) irradiation. UV irradiation, mainly UVB at wavelength of 280-315 nm, can alter several epidermal functions, including cutaneous inflammation, epidermal hyperproliferation, DNA damage, disruption of epidermal permeability barrier and reduction in stratum corneum hydration levels. Because of the negative impacts of UVB irradiation on epidermal functions, great efforts have been made to develop regimens for the protection of alterations in epidermal function induced by UV irradiation.

SUMMARY

While sunscreen can provide physical barrier to UV light, some natural ingredients can also effectively protect the skin from UVB irradiation-induced damages. Studies have demonstrated that either topical or oral administrations of some natural ingredients attenuate UVB irradiation-induced alterations in the epidermal function. The underlying mechanisms by which natural ingredients improve epidermal functions are attributable to antioxidation, stimulation of keratinocyte differentiation, increases in the content of epidermal natural moisturizers and inhibition of inflammation.

KEY MESSAGE

Some natural ingredients exhibit protective and therapeutical benefits in photo-induced epidermal dysfunctions via divergent mechanisms.

Associations between sun exposure, skin pH, and epidermal permeability in pregnancy: A longitudinal observational study

Little is known about how sun exposure may affect the maternal skin barrier during pregnancy when many hormonal and physiological changes occur. In this longitudinal observational study, 50 pregnant women were recruited at 18-24 weeks' gestation, 25 in summer-autumn, and 25 in winter-spring. At three time points in pregnancy at 18-24, 28-30, and 36-38 weeks' gestation, participants completed a validated sun exposure questionnaire and had skin permeability and surface pH measured on the volar forearm. We identified an association between increased sun exposure and increased skin permeability at 18-24 weeks' gestation (β = 0.85, p = 0.01). Lower transepidermal water loss (decreased skin permeability), mean = 12.1 (SD = 5.1) at 28-30 weeks' gestation was observed, compared to mean = 12.6 (SD = 4.0) at 18-24 weeks' and mean = 13.7 (SD = 8.5) at 36-38 weeks' gestation (n = 27, β = -1.83, p = 0.007). Higher skin pH readings, mean = 5.80 (SD = 0.58) were found at 28-30 weeks' gestation, compared to mean = 5.25 (SD = 0.62) at 18-24 weeks' and mean = 5.47 (SD = 0.57) at 36-38 weeks' gestation (n = 27, β = 0.40, p = 0.004). These gestational fluctuations remained after adjusting for Fitzpatrick skin type, season, and sun exposure. We observed gestational fluctuations in both skin permeability and skin pH, with 28-30 weeks' gestation being a significant point of difference compared to mid- and late-pregnancy periods.

Characterization of Epidermal Function in Individuals with Primary Cutaneous Amyloidosis

Purpose

To compare epidermal biophysical properties, indicators of epidermal function, in individuals with and without primary cutaneous amyloidosis (PCA).

Patients and Methods

This study incorporated 189 patients with PCA and 166 healthy individuals. The GPSkin Barrier was employed to measure transepidermal water loss (TEWL) rates and hydration levels of the stratum corneum. The Sebumeter and the Skin pH Meter were utilized to determine the skin surface's sebum content and pH, respectively. The severity of pruritus in participants was evaluated using the visual analog scale (VAS).

Results

Compared to the control group without PCA, individuals with PCA displayed a notable increase in skin surface pH and TEWL and a decrease in the hydration levels of the stratum corneum (p<0.0001 for all parameters). Additionally, the sebum content was markedly lower in those with PCA than in the controls (p<0.0001). Of particular note, both TEWL and skin surface pH at the lesion sites on the back and the shin were more elevated in lichenoid amyloidosis (LA) and in macular amyloidosis (MA), whereas hydration levels of the stratum corneum and sebum levels were diminished in LA compared to MA (p<0.05). In conclusion, both hydration levels of the stratum corneum and sebum content exhibited an inverse relationship with pruritus severity, whereas TEWL and skin surface pH demonstrated a positive correlation with pruritus intensity.

Conclusion

The function of the epidermis is compromised in individuals diagnosed with PCA. However, the mechanisms underlying these changes await further investigation.

The Association between the Level of Advanced Glycation End Products and Objective Skin Quality Parameters

Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) represent an endogenously produced or exogenously derived group of compounds derived from nonenzymatic glycation. Recent experimental studies are suggesting that AGEs could play an important role in the skin's quality and its aging process. Hence, the aim of this study was to clinically evaluate the AGEs and skin quality parameters across different age groups in the general population. The study included 237 participants. Melanin, erythema, hydration, friction and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were evaluated using noninvasive probes, while AGEs were evaluated using a skin autofluorescence reader. There was a significant positive correlation between AGEs and the amount of melanin (p < 0.001), erythema (p < 0.001) and TEWL (p < 0.001), while there was a significant negative correlation between AGEs and hydration (p < 0.001) and friction (p < 0.001). After dividing the sample into three groups depending on their age, in all three groups, there was a significant positive correlation between AGEs and the melanin count (p < 0.001) and TEWL (p < 0.001), while there was a significant negative correlation between AGEs and skin hydration (p < 0.001). Multiple linear regression analysis showed that the level of AGEs as a dependent variable retained a significant association with age (p < 0.001), melanin (p < 0.001), erythema (p = 0.005) and TEWL (p < 0.001) as positive predictors. Moreover, AGEs retained a significant association with skin hydration (p < 0.001) and friction (p = 0.017) as negative predictors. These outcomes imply that AGEs could be linked with the complex physiology of the skin and its aging process.

Soothing Effect of a Cosmetic Product on Skin Discomforts Induced by a Chemical Irritant (Capsaicin) and UV-Radiation, and after Mosquito Bites and Sunburn in a Real-World Setting

Irritated and itchy skin is a common skin condition. Consumers tend to opt for natural ingredients for irritated skin (e.g., after insect bites or sun exposure). We tested a cosmetic product with 94% of its ingredients being of natural origin, each with its beneficial properties, e.g., nourishing shea butter, cooling menthol, and soothing bisabolol. Skin discomfort was induced either by a chemical irritant (capsaicin) or UV radiation by a solar simulator. In this clinical, prospective, and controlled experimental study, we investigated the soothing effect of the tested product. We observed a soothing effect on the capsaicin-induced itching and stinging sensation with a statistically significant decrease in the discomfort sensations one minute after a single application. The tested product also showed a significant reduction in the UV-induced skin erythema (UVA+B exposure). In a real-world study, these results can be correlated with a decrease of itching and irritation after sunburn or after insect bites.

Structural and Functional age-related changes in some facial signs of Chinese men. A Pilot study

OBJECTIVE

To associate, on the same Chinese male subjects, changes in facial aging signs with some biomechanical skin properties.

METHODS

The severities of 20 facial aging signs of 219 differently aged Chinese men (20-65y) were graded in blind by trained experts through standardized photographs, using a referential skin Atlas dedicated to Asian men. On each subject, the mechanical properties were assessed on the cheek area (left or right at random) by the validated suction technique Cutometer®. Finally, the skin color parameters were assessed on images from VISIA-CR device.

RESULTS

Clinically speaking, the severity of almost all facial aging signs increases from 30y to 65y, in a linear like progression, whereas the 20-30y shows weak increases. Skin color shows slight but progressive decreases in Luminance and ITA, whereas the yellow and red components slightly increased between 40y and 65y. At the exception of skin firmness, the skin mechanical properties show a clear decline during the 30-50y period and plateau beyond.

CONCLUSION

The present study suggests that the 20-30y period, albeit more clinically "silent" than the other periods of age, seems to be an age-range during which early alterations of some dermal elements' onset. Deeper in vivo investigating techniques (Echography, Multiphotonic microscopy) are needed to confirm such hypothesis.

Facial Skin Biophysical Profile of Women in Malaysia: Significance of Facial Skincare Product Use

INTRODUCTION

At present, there is a lack of baseline data on the facial skin biophysical profile of women in Malaysia. The implications related to the daily habits and facial skincare product use on the skin biophysical condition are, thus, unknown. In this study, we aim to evaluate facial skin biophysical parameters of Malaysian women and examine the influence of demographic characteristics, daily habits, and facial skincare product use on these parameters.

METHODS

Four skin biophysical parameters - transepidermal water loss (TEWL), melanin content, elasticity, and collagen intensity - were assessed on the cheek of the subjects (20-60 years). Demographic background, daily habits, and skincare product use were gauged through a survey. Only 197 from the 213 subjects recruited initially were used for analysis after the data were screened for normality.

RESULTS

The biophysical parameters were similar in different races, except a higher melanin content in Indian female individuals. Elasticity and collagen intensity reduced with age, while melanin content increased in the older age-groups. But no difference was observed in TEWL at different ages. Evaluating the influence of daily habits, we observed that exercise significantly lowered TEWL and increased melanin content, which may be associated with UV radiation exposure. Facial skincare products are popular among the female subjects (>85% users). Products with moisturizing, sunscreening, and other skincare functions (astringent, antiaging, and anti-wrinkle) were preferred by subjects of all ages. These product functions significantly improve skin elasticity and reduce melanin content in the young adults. While aged women recognized the importance of having an additional skin-lightening function in their skincare routine. Although the influence of individual skincare function on skin biophysical parameters was mostly positive, the alteration of these parameters varied at different ages.

CONCLUSION

This is the first report of facial skin biophysical profile of Malaysian women. There is no difference among 3 major races saved for melanin content. This work demonstrated age-dependent influences on the biophysical parameters, except TEWL. The significance of skincare product use is well reflected in the improvement of these parameters at different age-groups based on individual skincare functions.

Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age, on a tired-look or a healthy glow among differently aged Chinese men

OBJECTIVE

To determine the respective weights of certain facial signs on the assessment of perceived age, tired-look and healthy glow on Chinese men of different ages.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Photographs were taken of the faces of 420 Chinese men of different ages, under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed to focus and define 15 facial signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. The facial signs were dispatched into 5 clusters, namely wrinkles/texture, ptosis/sagging, pigmentation disorders, vascular disorders and cheek skin pores. A naïve panel, composed of 80 Chinese women, of similar age range were asked, when viewing full-face photographs, to: (i) attribute on a 0-10 scale their perception of both the tired-look and healthy glow aspects and (ii) estimate the age of the subject.

RESULTS

With the exception of vascular disorders, the severity of all 4 clusters increased with age, although at different rates. The ptosis/sagging or pigmentation disorders showed a rather regular progression. Although perceived ages and real ages were found to be closely correlated, the vast majority of subjects were judged older by 2-10 years. The changes in facial signs (and their related clusters) were significantly correlated with perceived age, with the exceptions of skin spot density and cheek skin pores. Although the aspects of tired-look and healthy glow were logically found to be anti-correlated, tired-look was more statistically associated with perceived age for the five clusters. Signs of eye contour appear to be closely correlated with the perception of a tired-look.

CONCLUSION

Within facial clinical clusters, wrinkles/texture and ptosis/sagging are major factors in the assessment of perceived age in Chinese men. Tired-look appears to be strongly associated with perceived age.

Copaiba oleoresin has topical antinociceptive activity in a UVB radiation-induced skin-burn model in mice

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Copaiba oleoresin, extracted from Copaifera L., is used as a wound healing, analgesic, antimicrobial and, mainly, anti-inflammatory agent. Thus, in this study we investigated the antinociceptive and anti-inflammatory effects of a topical formulation containing Copaiba oleoresin (3%) in a UVB radiation-induced skin burn model (0.75 J/cm²) in mice and performed a cream-formulation stability study.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The chemical composition of Copaiba oleoresin was analyzed using gas chromatography (GC-MS). The topical antinociceptive (evaluated through mechanical allodynia and thermal hyperalgesia) and the anti-inflammatory (dermal thickness and inflammatory cell infiltration) effects of treatments were assessed. The cream-formulation stability study was performed after two months, and organoleptic characteristics, pH, spreadability and rheological characteristics were analyzed.

RESULTS

Copaiba oleoresin cream was able to prevent UVB radiation-induced mechanical allodynia on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th day after UVB radiation exposure with a maximum inhibition (I_max) of 64.6 ± 7% observed on the 2nd day; it also reduced the thermal hyperalgesia on the 1st and 2nd days post UVB radiation, with a I_max of 100% observed on the 2nd day. Moreover, topical treatment with Copaiba oleoresin cream inhibited the inflammatory cell infiltration, but did not reduce the dermal thickness. Such effects can be attributed, at least in part, to the presence of biological components, such as β-caryophyllene and other sesquiterpenes identified by GC-MS.

CONCLUSION

Our results demonstrate that the topical formulation containing Copaiba oleoresin presented antinociceptive and anti-inflammatory effects in mice subjected to a UVB radiation and that the cream-formulation was stable for two months. Thus, use of Copaiba oleoresin is a promising strategy for the treatment of inflammatory pain associated with sunburn.

Research Techniques Made Simple: Transepidermal Water Loss Measurement as a Research Tool

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is the most widely used objective measurement for assessing the barrier function of skin in healthy individuals but also patients with skin diseases that are associated with skin barrier dysfunction, such as atopic dermatitis. TEWL is the quantity of condensed water that diffuses across a fixed area of stratum corneum to the skin surface per unit time. The water evaporating from the skin is measured using a probe that is placed in contact with the skin surface and contains sensors that detect changes in water vapor density. TEWL can be measured using an open-chamber, unventilated-chamber, or condenser-chamber device. It is a sensitive measure that is affected by properties of the surrounding microclimate such as environmental humidity, temperature, and airflow and should be measured under controlled conditions. TEWL varies significantly across different anatomical sites and also depends on sweat gland activity, skin temperature, and corneocyte properties. Here we describe how to optimally use TEWL measurements as a skin research tool in vivo and in vitro.

Validation of GPSkin Barrier® for assessing epidermal permeability barrier function and stratum corneum hydration in humans

BACKGROUND

Measurements of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum (SC) hydration are important for assessing epidermal functions. However, the availability of reliable and user-friendly devices, which can simultaneously measure both TEWL and SC hydration and can allow health providers to remotely access data in time, is limited.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

GPSkin Barrier^® was compared with MPA5 system in the measurements of TEWL and SC hydration on the cheek, the dorsal hand, and the forearm in 200 normal volunteers, including 126 females and 74 males, aged 1-78 years with an average age of 45.24 ± 1.04 years. Correlation of data measured with MPA5 system and GPSkin Barrier^® was determined.

RESULTS

Levels of both TEWL and SC hydration measured with the Barrie GPSkin Barrier^® were lower than that with MPA5 system on all 3 body sites except for hydration on the cheek. The levels of both TEWL and SC hydration measured with GpSkin Barrier^® were correlated well with that measured with MPA5 system on all 3 body sites CONCLUSIONS: GPSkin Barrier^® is a reliable, affordable, and versatile device for assessing epidermal permeability barrier function and SC hydration.

Skin hydration and lifestyle-related factors in community-dwelling older people

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to investigate skin hydration status of the lower legs by comparing several methods and examining lifestyle-related factors in community-dwelling older people.

METHODS

A cross-sectional study was conducted in three community settings in Japan from autumn to winter. Participants were older people aged ≥65 years (n=118). Skin hydration status of the lower legs was evaluated by stratum corneum hydration using an electrical device, clinical symptoms by an expert's observation and the visual analogue scale. Lifestyle factors of skin care were evaluated by a self-administered questionnaire.

RESULTS

The mean age of participants was 74.4 years and 83.9% were women. Stratum corneum hydration was significantly correlated with clinical scores by an expert's observation (rho=-0.46, P<0.001), but it was not correlated with the visual analogue scale (rho=-0.08, P=0.435). Among participants who did not perceive dry skin, 57.5% showed low stratum corneum hydration. Hospitalization in the past year (b=-9.4, P=0.008), excessive bathing habits (b=-4.6, P=0.014), and having an outdoor hobby (b=-5.7, P=0.007) were negatively associated, and diuretics (b=11.5, P=0.002) and lotion-type moisturizer use (b=4.6, P=0.022) were positively associated with stratum corneum hydration.

CONCLUSION

Stratum corneum hydration measurements show an adequate association with observation-based evaluation by an expert, but poor agreement with subjective evaluation in community-dwelling older people. Hospitalization experience and lifestyle factors are associated with skin hydration.

Diosmin/essential oil combination for dermal photo-protection using a lipoid colloidal carrier

Solar irradiation induces skin inflammatory processes causing deleterious effects like premature ageing. In this study, the designed lipoid colloidal carrier (LCC) was loaded with Diosmin in combination with different essential oils, to be used as a topical photo-protective preparation. To investigate the ability of the essential oils to potentiate Diosmin effects, the Diosmin/essential oil-loaded LCCs (LCC2, LCC3 and LCC4) were compared to the Diosmin-loaded LCC (LCC1). The incorporated essential oils were those of Rosmarinus officinalis, Zingiber officinale or Vitis vinifera in LCC2, LCC3 and LCC4, respectively. All the LCCs had particle size (PS) values ranging from 121.1 to 144.3nm with uniform distribution and, zeta potential (Z) values around 30mV. Also, they all had high drug encapsulation efficiencies. LCC1 had the lowest anti-oxidant and in-vitro sun-blocking effect (p<0.05). In-vivo photo-protective studies showed that all the formulated LCCs had a skin protective effect when compared to the positive control (p<0.05); however LCC1 had the lowest anti-erythemal and anti-wrinkling effect. Histological studies proved the efficacy of the designed LCCs as skin anti-photoageing, with LCC1 showing the lowest anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkling effect, while LCC2 had the highest anti-wrinkling effect. These results indicated that the suggested Diosmin/essential oil combinations improved the anti-oxidant, sun-blocking and anti-photoageing effects of Diosmin. After one year of storage, the LCCs showed satisfactory physical stability. This study presents the designed LCCs as safe and effective nano-structured dermal care products containing 'all-natural' components.

Skin Erythema, Pigmentation and Hydration Kinetics after Ultraviolet Radiation-induced Photodamage in Southern Chinese Women

Although there have been some studies about changes of skin erythema and pigmentation following ultraviolet radiation in other races, the relevant data in Chinese have never been achieved. Thus, we evaluated the long-time course of skin erythema, pigmentation and hydration changes after different doses of solar-simulated ultraviolet (SSUV) irradiation in 26 Chinese women for 168 days. The erythema index increased abruptly and peaked during 3 days of SSUV exposure, then slowly returned to the baseline level starting at day 7 and completely recovered during 168-day course of this study only in one minimal erythema doses (MED) SSUV irradiation. The melanin index started to slowly increase at day 3 of SSUV exposure, peaking at day 14 and gradually returned to the baseline level thereafter, but did not return to the baseline level during 168-day course in all doses. Skin hydration slowly declined at day 3 of exposure, hitting the lowest point at day 7, then slowly recovered starting at day 14 and completely returned to the baseline level at day 28 only in 1.5MED. These results will serve as baseline data on Chinese skin and provide useful references for the treatment of serious skin photodamage in Chinese.

Comparison of skin properties in individuals living in cities at two different altitudes: an investigation of the environmental effect on skin

BACKGROUND

Skin properties vary depending on exogenous factors. Various studies have been used for comparing skin properties between cities for studying environment influence on skin properties. However, for comparison of skin properties between cities, various environmental factors have to be considered.

OBJECTIVES

The purpose of this study therefore was to compare skin properties in individuals of the same ethnicity and sex (Indonesian women) between different altitudes and to interpret the environmental effect on skin.

METHODS

In this study, we reanalyzed the data obtained from previous study. The data were for healthy Sundanese Indonesian females [(n = 136) at Jakarta (n = 49) and Bandung (n = 87)], and the data consisted of published data (skin hydration, sebum level, pH, elasticity, and transepidermal water loss) and unpublished data [skin color (L*, a*, and b*)]. The skin parameters were measured on Indonesian females aged 20-34 using C+K devices (corneometer, sebumeter, pH meter, and cutometer), Delfin vapometer, and Minolta spectrophotometer, respectively.

RESULTS

Sundanese Jakarta (low-altitude) females had higher sebum level and greater redness (a*) value in the forehead than Sundanese Bandung (high-altitude) females. In contrast, Bandung females had higher skin pH, brighter skin color, and greater forehead skin elasticity than Jakarta females.

CONCLUSIONS

The skin properties can be influenced by changing altitude because different altitudes have different environments such as air temperature, humidity, UV radiation, and so on, and it is also necessary to investigate the factors which can influence with perceived skin condition such as skin type and skin concerning.

Heavy Cigarette Smokers in a Chinese Population Display a Compromised Permeability Barrier

Cigarette smoking is associated with various cutaneous disorders with defective permeability. Yet, whether cigarette smoking influences epidermal permeability barrier function is largely unknown. Here, we measured skin biophysical properties, including permeability barrier homeostasis, stratum corneum (SC) integrity, SC hydration, skin surface pH, and skin melanin/erythema index, in cigarette smokers. A total of 99 male volunteers were enrolled in this study. Smokers were categorized as light-to-moderate (<20 cigarettes/day) or heavy smokers (≥20 cigarettes/day). An MPA5 was used to measure SC hydration and skin melanin/erythema index on the dorsal hand, forehead, and cheek. Basal transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and barrier recovery rates were assessed on the forearm. A Skin-pH-Meter pH900 was used to measure skin surface pH. Our results showed that heavy cigarette smokers exhibited delayed barrier recovery after acute abrogation (1.02% ± 13.06 versus 16.48% ± 6.07), and barrier recovery rates correlated negatively with the number of daily cigarettes consumption (p = 0.0087). Changes in biophysical parameters in cigarette smokers varied with body sites. In conclusion, heavy cigarette smokers display compromised permeability barrier homeostasis, which could contribute, in part, to the increased prevalence of certain cutaneous disorders characterized by defective permeability. Thus, improving epidermal permeability barrier should be considered for heavy cigarette smokers.

Sex differences in skin carotenoid deposition and acute UVB-induced skin damage in SKH-1 hairless mice after consumption of tangerine tomatoes

SCOPE

UVB exposure, a major factor in the development of skin cancer, has differential sex effects. Tomato product consumption reduces the intensity of UVB-induced erythema in humans, but the mechanisms are unknown.

METHODS AND RESULTS

Four-week-old SKH-1 hairless mice (40 females, 40 males) were divided into two feeding groups (control or with 10% tangerine tomatoes naturally rich in UV-absorbing phytoene and phytofluene) and two UV exposure groups (with or without UV). After 10 weeks of feeding, the UV group was exposed to a single UV dose and sacrificed 48 h later. Blood and dorsal skin samples were taken for carotenoid analysis. Dorsal skin was harvested to assess sex and UV effects on carotenoid deposition, inflammation (skinfold thickness, myeloperoxidase levels), and DNA damage (cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers, p53). Females had significantly higher levels of both skin and blood carotenoids relative to males. UV exposure significantly reduced skin carotenoid levels in females but not males. Tomato consumption attenuated acute UV-induced increases in CPD in both sexes, and reduced myeloperoxidase activity and percent p53 positive epidermal cells in males.

CONCLUSION

Tangerine tomatoes mediate acute UV-induced skin damage in SKH-1 mice via reduced DNA damage in both sexes, and through reduced inflammation in males.

Facial skin pigmentation is not related to stratum corneum cohesion, basal transepidermal water loss, barrier integrity and barrier repair

OBJECTIVE

Hypotheses have been developed for the evolutionary selection of skin pigmentation one of which relates to improved skin barrier function. The aim of this study was to compare facial skin condition on photoexposed (cheek) and photoprotected (post-auricular) sites of naturally pigmented subjects of different ethnicities (Fitzpatrick skin phototypes II/III and V/VI) and Albino African subjects to understand better the relationship between facial stratum corneum (SC) barrier function, skin surface pH and skin pigmentation.

METHODS

Expert grading of skin conditions, capacitance, skin surface pH and skin barrier function measurements were performed. For the latter, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements before (basal TEWL), after 3, 6 and 9 consecutive tape strippings (SC integrity) and 3.5 and 24 h post tape stripping (barrier recovery) were taken. Amounts of SC protein removed during stripping were estimated using infrared densitometry (SC cohesion).

RESULTS

Firstly, correlation analysis of the biometric data of the Black African and Caucasian subjects showed there to be no relationship between skin surface pH and ITA° values nor pH and ITA° with basal TEWL. Neither skin surface pH nor ITA° correlated with SC integrity and barrier recovery measurements, but skin surface pH correlated with SC cohesion. ITA° values were correlated with skin hydration. Secondly, on comparing the three ethnic groups, severe skin photodamage was observed in the Albino African subjects and their SC was thicker. Whereas their basal TEWL was elevated, superior values for SC integrity and barrier recovery were measured. No differences in basal TEWL, SC integrity and barrier recovery were found between the other two subject groups. Equally, SC cohesion and skin surface pH values were similar among the three groups.

CONCLUSION

There was no relationship between ITA° values and basal TEWL, SC integrity, SC cohesion and barrier recovery, but ITA° was correlated with skin hydration. Skin surface pH, irrespective of ITA° values, correlated with SC cohesion, indicating a greater intracorneal cohesion at lower pH values. Thus, pigmentation has no effect on SC barrier properties but was related to skin hydration. On comparing the three ethnic groups, Albino African SC was found to be superior to the Caucasian and Black African subjects in terms of SC integrity and barrier recovery but not basal TEWL. The Albino African subjects also have a thicker SC which contributes to their better SC integrity. No differences in skin barrier functionality or skin surface pH were observed for the other two groups. Skin hydration was, however, greatest in the Black African subjects. Our data support the evolutionary hypothesis that pigmentation protects the skin from UV irradiation and thereby the skin barrier but not the skin pigmentation-/pH-driven adaptive skin barrier hypothesis.

Influence of skin aging effects on the skin surface profile and the correlated distribution of topically applied sunscreens

The surface profile of human skin influences characteristically the distribution pattern of topically applied formulations and consequently the efficacy of sunscreens. The volumes of furrows and the spectroscopically determined factors of inhomogeneity are investigated for three sunscreens. A clear correlation between both measurands exists. The average values for younger (<32 years) and older (≥51 years) volunteers do not show statistically significant differences. Systematic variations found for the individual values are due to a reduced elasticity of the skin with age improving the homogeneity of the sunscreen distribution.

Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreens: focus on their safety and effectiveness

Sunscreens are used to provide protection against adverse effects of ultraviolet (UV)B (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400 nm) radiation. According to the United States Food and Drug Administration, the protection factor against UVA should be at least one-third of the overall sun protection factor. Titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO) minerals are frequently employed in sunscreens as inorganic physical sun blockers. As TiO2 is more effective in UVB and ZnO in the UVA range, the combination of these particles assures a broad-band UV protection. However, to solve the cosmetic drawback of these opaque sunscreens, microsized TiO2 and ZnO have been increasingly replaced by TiO2 and ZnO nanoparticles (NPs) (<100 nm). This review focuses on significant effects on the UV attenuation of sunscreens when microsized TiO2 and ZnO particles are replaced by NPs and evaluates physicochemical aspects that affect effectiveness and safety of NP sunscreens. With the use of TiO2 and ZnO NPs, the undesired opaqueness disappears but the required balance between UVA and UVB protection can be altered. Utilization of mixtures of micro- and nanosized ZnO dispersions and nanosized TiO2 particles may improve this situation. Skin exposure to NP-containing sunscreens leads to incorporation of TiO2 and ZnO NPs in the stratum corneum, which can alter specific NP attenuation properties due to particle-particle, particle-skin, and skin-particle-light physicochemical interactions. Both sunscreen NPs induce (photo)cyto- and genotoxicity and have been sporadically observed in viable skin layers especially in case of long-term exposures and ZnO. Photocatalytic effects, the highest for anatase TiO2, cannot be completely prevented by coating of the particles, but silica-based coatings are most effective. Caution should still be exercised when new sunscreens are developed and research that includes sunscreen NP stabilization, chronic exposures, and reduction of NPs' free-radical production should receive full attention.