Dermocosmetics for dry skin: a new role for botanical extracts

Hormesis: wound healing and fibroblasts

Hormetic dose responses are reported here to occur commonly in the dermal wound healing process, with the particular focus on cell viability, proliferation, migration and collagen deposition of human and murine fibroblasts with in vitro studies. Hormetic responses were induced by a wide range of substances, including endogenous agents, pharmaceutical preparations, plant-derived extracts including many well-known dietary supplements, as well as physical stressor agents such as low-level laser treatments. Detailed mechanistic studies have identified common signaling pathways and their cross-pathway communications that mediate the hormetic dose responses. These findings complement and extend a similar comprehensive assessment concerning the occurrence of hormetic dose responses in keratinocytes. These findings demonstrate the generality of the hormetic dose response for key wound healing endpoints, suggesting that the hormesis concept has a fundamental role in wound healing, with respect to guiding strategies for experimental evaluation as well as therapeutic applications.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

Skin moisture assessment using Hydration Sensor Patches coupled with smartphones via Near Field Communication (NFC). A pilot study with the first generation of patches that allow self-recordings of skin hydration

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate the potency of a new skin hydration sensor patch in the fast self-recording of skin hydration.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The Skin Hydration Sensor Patch (SHSP) turns the user's smartphone into a wireless skin moisture measuring device. The SHSP combines a capacitive measurement unit and Near Field Communication technology (NFC) for transmitting data and energy. The probe is fixed onto the back of the smartphone and pressed to the skin for a few seconds where the application immediately calculates the capacitance value. Once recorded, the probe is then immediately taken off from the skin. In a first study, this system was compared to the Corneometer^® technique, in vivo, on various skin sites of 23 healthy French women. In a second study, 20 women with moderate dry skin on face and forearm self-recorded, through the SHSP the changes in skin hydration induced by a Xanthan gel containing 3% (w/w) of Glycerol, along 24 hours. A questionnaire based on 5 types of questions was established to be filled by subjects about their perception of the use of this new system.

RESULTS

In the first study, the values recorded by the SHSP were found highly correlated with those provided by the Corneometer^® . The second study allowed to observe significant differences in skin hydration of both sites at all times, as compared to values obtained before the application of the gel. Differences between both sites were observed, the face being less hydrated than forearm. From a practical aspect, the self-recordings on the face show a higher variability (approx. 10% than those of the forearm). The questionnaire led to positive answers on almost all points.

CONCLUSION

This SHSP appears as a promising approach in the field of connected skin-related devices. As such, it opens or enlarges a new paradigm in the relationships between a consumer and a cosmetic product.

Traditionally Used Natural Products in Preventing Ionizing Radiation-Induced Dermatitis: First Review on the Clinical Studies

In the treatment of cancer, the use of ionizing radiation is an important modality. However, on the downside, radiation, when used for curative purposes, causes acute dermatitis or radiodermatitis at the site of radiation in most individuals. From a clinical viewpoint, severe dermatitis causes a burning and itching sensation is very painful, and severely affects the quality of life of the individual undergoing treatment. In worse situations, acute radiation dermatitis can cause gaps or breaks in the planned treatment and this can adversely affect the treatment objective and outcome.

BACKGROUND

In various traditional and folk systems of medicine, plants and plant products have been used since time immemorial for treating various skin ailments. Further, many cosmeceutical creams formulated based on knowledge from ethnomedicinal use are marketed and used to treat various ailments. In the current review, an attempt is made at summarizing the beneficial effects of some plants and plant products in mitigating acute radiation dermatitis in humans undergoing curative radiotherapy. Additionally, the emphasis is also placed on the mechanism/s responsible for the beneficial effects.

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this review is to summarize the clinical observations on the prevention of radiodermatitis by plant products. In this review, the protective effects of Adlay (Coix lachryma-jobi L.) bran extract, Aloe vera, Calendula officinalis, Cucumis sativus, green tea constituent the epigallocatechin-3-gallate, honey, Achillea millefolium, Matricaria chamomilla, olive oil and some polyherbal creams are addressed by also addressing on the mechanism of action for the beneficial effects.

METHODS

Two authors' data mined for information in Google Scholar, PubMed, Embase and the Cochrane Library for publications in the field from 1901 up to July 2020. The focus was on acute radiation dermatitis, ionizing radiation, curative radiotherapy, human cancer. The articles were collected and analyzed.

RESULTS

For the first time, this review addresses the usefulness of natural products like adlay bran, Aloe vera, Calendula officinalis, Cucumis sativus, green tea constituent the epigallocatechin-3-gallate, honey, Achillea millefolium, Matricaria chamomilla, olive oil and some experimentally constituted and commercially available polyherbal creams as skincare agents against the deleterious effects of ionizing radiation on the skin. The protective effects are possibly due to the free radical scavenging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound healing and skin protective effects.

CONCLUSION

The authors suggest that these plants have been used since antiquity as medicinal agents and require in-depth investigation with both clinical and preclinical validated models of study. The results of these studies will be extremely useful to cancer patients requiring curative radiotherapy, the dermatology fraternity, agro-based and pharmaceutical sectors at large.

Woad extract containing cream improves significantly dry, irritated, and pruritic skin

Objective of this open, noninterventional, noncontrolled study was to investigate the tolerability and performance of a woad extract containing cream in subjects with dry, pruritic skin after twice daily application over 2 weeks. Assessments included sensorial characteristics, skin condition, pruritus (numeric rating scale [NRS], dynamic pruritus score [DPS]), skin dryness (itch-controlled days [ItchCD], overall dry skin [ODS]), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration and quality of life (5PLQ, DLQI). All sensorial characteristics were well perceived (>4), with tolerability (4.77 ± 0.47) and no negative skin feelings (4.73 ± 0.74) achieving the highest scores (0-5 scale). Dry skin and symptoms improved significantly (p < .001) for all variables: NRS (from 4.8 ± 1.74 to 1.83 ± 2.18), ItchCD (from 8.23 ± 4.40 to 4.81 ± 4.07), ODS (from 1.80 ± 0.85 to 0.65 ± 0.65), hydration (23.33 ± 1.33 to 40.70 ± 1.86), and quality of life (5PLQ: from 7.12 ± 4.25 to 4.24 ± 3.67; DLQI: from 5.29 ± 4.79 to 3.00 ± 3.98). The DPS revealed a moderate antipruritic effect. The TEWL decreased slightly (p = .511). No side effects were reported. The study suggests that, the cream is effective, and well tolerated in treating dry, irritated, and pruritic skin.

Advances in Regenerative Medicine and Tissue Engineering: Innovation and Transformation of Medicine

Humans and animals lose tissues and organs due to congenital defects, trauma, and diseases. The human body has a low regenerative potential as opposed to the urodele amphibians commonly referred to as salamanders. Globally, millions of people would benefit immensely if tissues and organs can be replaced on demand. Traditionally, transplantation of intact tissues and organs has been the bedrock to replace damaged and diseased parts of the body. The sole reliance on transplantation has created a waiting list of people requiring donated tissues and organs, and generally, supply cannot meet the demand. The total cost to society in terms of caring for patients with failing organs and debilitating diseases is enormous. Scientists and clinicians, motivated by the need to develop safe and reliable sources of tissues and organs, have been improving therapies and technologies that can regenerate tissues and in some cases create new tissues altogether. Tissue engineering and/or regenerative medicine are fields of life science employing both engineering and biological principles to create new tissues and organs and to promote the regeneration of damaged or diseased tissues and organs. Major advances and innovations are being made in the fields of tissue engineering and regenerative medicine and have a huge impact on three-dimensional bioprinting (3D bioprinting) of tissues and organs. 3D bioprinting holds great promise for artificial tissue and organ bioprinting, thereby revolutionizing the field of regenerative medicine. This review discusses how recent advances in the field of regenerative medicine and tissue engineering can improve 3D bioprinting and vice versa. Several challenges must be overcome in the application of 3D bioprinting before this disruptive technology is widely used to create organotypic constructs for regenerative medicine.

The use of natural ingredients in innovative Korean cosmeceuticals

BACKGROUND

The cosmeceutical industry is an ever-growing and in demand market, especially in Asia. Korea has been on the forefront of creating the newest generation and most innovative cosmeceuticals products including ingredients such as snail secretions, starfish powder, botanical extracts, green tea, and red ginseng. Given their increasing prevalence in the cosmeceutical industry, scientists have been conducting investigations into these extracts and their properties.

OBJECTIVE

To summarize the current literature surrounding multiple natural ingredients found in Korean cosmeceutical products.

METHODS

A review of the literature surrounding natural ingredients found in Korean cosmeceuticals was conducted using PubMed (U.S. National Library of Medicine).

RESULTS

Multiple natural extracts have been found to have antiaging, antitumor, and antimelanogenic effects making them useful additives in current cosmeceutical products.

CONCLUSION

With the public's increasing awareness of cosmeceutical products, it is important for physicians to understand the properties of these extracts in order to inform patients correctly and ensure patient safety.

Ex vivo Skin Permeation of Betulin from Water-in-Oil Foams

Triterpenes of the outer bark of birch are known to improve wound healing. An oleogel with these triterpenes as active principle is approved by the European Medicines Agency. As foams can be applied without touching the skin, they might be an advantageous application form. A comparable wound-healing effect can be expected when the permeation flux of the triterpenes from different types of formulations, namely oleogels, water-in-oil emulsions and water-in-oil foams, is similar. The tested formulations were based on three lipids (medium-chain trigylcerides, sunflower oil and paraffin) which differ in their polarity and solvent power for the triterpenes. Infinite dose permeation experiments were performed using porcine skin which was injured by either tape stripping or skin grafting. The results showed that steady-state permeation flux and lag time depend clearly on the depth of the skin lesion. Moreover, it was substantially affected by the lipid used as basis for the different formulations. In contrast, the different formulation types showed a comparable permeation behaviour leading to the conclusion that all formulation types can be used alike for the treatment of wounds, and the results that have already been obtained with oleogels can be directly translated to the foam with its superior use properties.

Recent progress on the traditional Chinese medicines that regulate the blood

In traditional Chinese medicine, the herbs that regulate blood play a vital role. Here, nine herbs including Typhae Pollen, Notoginseng Root, Common Bletilla Tuber, India Madder Root and Rhizome, Chinese Arborvitae Twig, Lignum Dalbergiae Oderiferae, Chuanxiong Rhizoma, Corydalis Tuber, and Motherwort Herb were selected and reviewed for their recent studies on anti-tumor, anti-inflammatory and cardiovascular effects. Besides, the analytical methods developed to qualify or quantify the active compounds of the herbs are also summarized.

Medicinal plants of the genus Betula--traditional uses and a phytochemical-pharmacological review

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Trees and shrubs of the genus Betula (Betulaceae) inhabit various ecosystems in temperate and boreal climate zones of the northern hemisphere. The healing properties of Betula bark and bark extracts have been known for a long time in traditional medicine in different parts of the world. Several species of Betula have traditionally been used for the treatment of various inflammatory diseases including arthritis. The purpose of this review is to provide updated, comprehensive and categorized information on the botany, traditional uses, phytochemistry and pharmacological and toxicological research of Betula species in order to explore their therapeutic potential and evaluate future research opportunities.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

All the available information on various species belonging to the genus Betula was collected via electronic search (using Pubmed, SciFinder, Scirus, Google Scholar, JCCC@INSTIRC and Web of Science) and a library search for articles published in peer-reviewed journals.

RESULTS

Although over a hundred Betula species are found distributed globally, about 7 different species of Betula have been documented for their traditional uses. Phytochemical research on Betula species has led to the isolation of triterpenoids, diarylheptanoids, phenylbutanoids, lignans, phenolics and flavonoids. Crude extracts, fractions and phytochemical constituents isolated from Betula showed a wide spectrum of in vitro and in vivo pharmacological activities like immunomodulatory, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antiviral, antioxidant, antidiabetic, dermatological, gastroprotective and hepatoprotective. Antiarthritic and anticancer are the two major areas of research conducted on these species. The anti-carcinogenic effects of Betula bark, betulin as well as betulinic acid have been extensively studied.

CONCLUSIONS

Several species belonging to the genus Betula are widely used in traditional medicine. Betula platyphylla and Betula pendula have specifically been found to be potentially useful in the treatment of degenerative joint disease. There is convincing evidence in experimental animal models in support of their anti-carcinogenic effects. However, it would be worthwhile to investigate the biochemical and physiological mechanisms as well as detailed preclinical toxicity, bioavailability, pharmacokinetics and pharmacodynamics of the different biologically active extracts as well as molecules in sufficient detail. An integrated and holistic approach is required for tapping the full potentials of this important genus.

Accelerated reepithelialization by triterpenes: proof of concept in the healing of surgical skin lesions

The acceleration of wound healing is a major surgical concern. A triterpene extract from birch bark (Betulae cortex) experimentally enhances keratinocyte differentiation in vitro and accelerates wound healing ex vivo. We conducted an open, blind-evaluated, controlled, prospective, randomized (1:1) phase II clinical trial in patients requiring split-thickness skin graft transplantation at two university hospitals in Germany. Donor sites on the upper legs were covered with a moist silicone-coated dressing. Oleogel-S10 ointment containing 10% birch bark extract was randomly applied to the distal or proximal half of the wound, with the other half serving as an intraindividual control, for 14 days after the skin graft surgery. The primary efficacy variable was faster reepithelialization as determined from macrophotographs by independent, blinded experts. Twenty-four patients were randomized and completed the trial. After the 14-day test period, the planned interim analysis revealed a highly significant (p < 0.0001) superiority of Oleogel-S10 in the primary efficacy variable and the trial was terminated early due to ethical concerns. The treatment side was also better reepithelialized and more similar to normal skin after 3 months. In conclusion, Oleogel-S10 significantly accelerated reepithelialization at split-thickness skin graft donor sites. Treatment with Oleogel-S10 was safe and well tolerated.

Children with dry skin and atopic predisposition: daily use of emollients in a participant-blinded, randomized, prospective trial

BACKGROUND

Dry skin reflects a skin barrier defect which can lead to atopic dermatitis. Little is known about the distinct effects of emollient use in children with dry skin and atopic predisposition.

OBJECTIVES

We investigated the effects of daily application of pressed ice plant juice (PIPJ)-based emollients and petrolatum-based emollients.

METHODS

Children aged 2-6 years with dry skin and atopic predisposition were randomized into 2 groups: group 1 received emollients containing PIPJ and natural lipids, while group 2 received petrolatum-based emollients. Skin condition and biophysical properties of the skin barrier were assessed at inclusion and weeks 4, 12 and 16.

RESULTS

Skin condition improved significantly in all children. Comparing the groups, children treated with emollients containing PIPJ showed significantly higher stratum corneum hydration values and significantly lower transepidermal water loss values at week 16 on the forearm and forehead. A significant decrease in skin pH was noted in group 2 on the forearm and forehead; group 1 showed a stable course.

CONCLUSION

Early intervention with emollients in children with dry skin condition and atopic predisposition may improve their skin condition during daily emollient application. PIPJ-based formulations may be helpful to maintain skin barrier integrity.

Time-dependent bioactivity of preparations from cactus pear (Opuntia ficus indica) and ice plant (Mesembryanthemum crystallinum) on human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Traditionally and nowadays preparations from two xerophytic plants, the ice plant and cactus pear are used in dermatologic and cosmetic preparations. In spite of their daily use, little is known concerning the bioactivity of such extracts on skin cells. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of pressed juices from ice plant (McP) and two cactus pear polysaccharides (cold water soluble, NwPS; non swelling pectin, NPec) on the cell physiology of normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and HaCaT-keratinocytes due to composition, concentration and incubation time.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Cactus pear polysaccharides were analyzed by high performance anion exchange chromatography with pulsed amperometric detection after hydrolysis with trifluoroacetic acid. Ice plant pressed juices were filtrated through a 1.2 μm (McPI) and 0.2 μm filter (McPII). Cell proliferation was measured with BrdU incorporation assay. Reduction of tetrazolium salts was applied to determine the metabolic activity (MTT) while necrotic effects were assessed by LDH-release measurements.

RESULTS

Cactus pear polysaccharides differed predominantly in their glucose and uronic acid content. The filtration of pressed juices altered the amounts of high molecular weight compounds. The proliferation of NHDF and HaCaTs was significantly stimulated by cactus pear polysaccharides and ice plant pressed juices not until 72 h of incubation. McPI significantly increased the proliferation of NHDF and HaCaTs while significant effect of McPII was only observed in case of HaCaT-keratinocytes. A dependence on concentration was not observed. Metabolic activity was neither influenced by McPI nor by McPII independent of incubation time. The HaCaT proliferation was not significantly influenced by low concentrations of cactus pear polysaccharides however it was inhibited by 100 μg/mL NPec. 100 μg/mL of NwPS and 1 μg/mL NPec stimulated the proliferation of fibroblasts. The metabolic activity of NHDF was not affected neither by NPec nor by NwPS. Independent of the used concentration NwPS significantly enhanced the metabolic activity of HaCaTs after 48 h of incubation.

CONCLUSIONS

Pressed juices of common ice plant and polysaccharides of cactus pear influenced the cell physiology of human keratinocytes and fibroblasts predominantly in a time-dependent manner. The effect was also be related to the concentration and composition as well as the investigated cell type.