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Ruini C, Kendziora B, Ergun EZ, Sattler E, Gust C, French LE, Bağcı IS, Hartmann D. In vivo examination of healthy human skin after short-time treatment with moisturizers using confocal Raman spectroscopy and optical coherence tomography: Preliminary observations. Skin Res Technol 2021; 28:119-132. [PMID: 34555219 PMCID: PMC9907652 DOI: 10.1111/srt.13101] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/14/2020] [Accepted: 07/31/2021] [Indexed: 11/28/2022]
Abstract
Skin is our barrier against environmental damage. Moisturizers are widely used to increase hydration and barrier integrity of the skin; however, there are contrasting observations on their in vivo effects in real-life settings. In cosmetic studies, corneometers and tewameters are traditionally used to assess skin hydration. In this study, two novel noninvasive diagnostic techniques, optical coherence tomography (OCT) and confocal Raman spectroscopy, were used to analyze stratum corneum and epidermal thickness (ET), water content, blood flow in function of depth, skin roughness, attenuation coefficient, natural moisturizing factor, ceramides and free fatty acids, cholesterol, urea, and lactates in 20 female subjects aged between 30 and 45 before and after 2 weeks application of a commercially available moisturizing lotion on one forearm. The untreated forearm served as control. A third measurement was conducted 1 week after cessation of moisturizing to verify whether the changes in the analyzed parameters persisted. We noticed a reduction in skin roughness, an increase in ceramides and free fatty acids and a not statistically significant increase in ET. As a conclusion, short time moisturizing appears insufficient to provide significant changes in skin morphology and composition, as assessed by OCT and RS. Novel noninvasive imaging methods are suitable for the evaluation of skin response to topical moisturizers. Further studies on larger sample size and longer treatment schedules are needed to analyze changes under treatment with moisturizers and to standardize the use of novel noninvasive diagnostic techniques.
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Affiliation(s)
- Cristel Ruini
- Department of Dermatology and Allergy, University Hospital, Ludwig Maximilian University, Munich, Germany.,PhD School in Clinical and Experimental Medicine, University of Modena and Reggio Emilia, Modena, Italy
| | - Benjamin Kendziora
- Department of Dermatology and Allergy, University Hospital, Ludwig Maximilian University, Munich, Germany
| | - Ecem Z Ergun
- Department of Dermatology and Allergy, University Hospital, Ludwig Maximilian University, Munich, Germany.,Istanbul Training and Research Hospital, Department of Dermatology, Istanbul, Turkey
| | - Elke Sattler
- Department of Dermatology and Allergy, University Hospital, Ludwig Maximilian University, Munich, Germany
| | - Charlotte Gust
- Department of Dermatology and Allergy, University Hospital, Ludwig Maximilian University, Munich, Germany
| | - Lars E French
- Department of Dermatology and Allergy, University Hospital, Ludwig Maximilian University, Munich, Germany.,Dr. Phillip Frost Department of Dermatology & Cutaneous Surgery, Miller School of Medicine, University of Miami, Miami, Florida, USA
| | - Işın Sinem Bağcı
- Department of Dermatology, Stanford University, Stanford, California, USA
| | - Daniela Hartmann
- Department of Dermatology and Allergy, University Hospital, Ludwig Maximilian University, Munich, Germany
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2
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Changes in Skin Barrier Function after Repeated Exposition to Phospholipid-Based Surfactants and Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate In Vivo and Corneocyte Surface Analysis by Atomic Force Microscopy. Pharmaceutics 2021; 13:pharmaceutics13040436. [PMID: 33804924 PMCID: PMC8063842 DOI: 10.3390/pharmaceutics13040436] [Citation(s) in RCA: 14] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/22/2021] [Revised: 03/16/2021] [Accepted: 03/20/2021] [Indexed: 11/17/2022] Open
Abstract
(1) Background: The aim of the study was to evaluate the effect of pure lecithins in comparison to a conventional surfactant on skin in vivo. (2) Methods: Physiological skin parameters were evaluated at the beginning and the end of the study (day 1 and day 4) (n = 8, healthy forearm skin) with an Aquaflux®, skin-pH-Meter, Corneometer® and an Epsilon® sensor. Confocal Raman spectroscopy was employed to monitor natural moisturizing factor, urea and water content of the participants' skin. Tape strips of treated skin sites were taken and the collected corneocytes were subjected to atomic force microscopy. Circular nano objects were counted, and dermal texture indices were determined. (3) Results: Transepidermal water loss was increased, and skin hydration was decreased after treatment with SDS and LPC80. Natural moisturizing factor and urea concentrations within the outermost 10 µm of the stratum corneum were lower than after treatment with S75 or water. Dermal texture indices of skin treated with SDS were higher than skin treated with water (control). (4) Conclusions: Results suggest very good (S75) or good (LPC80) skin-tolerability of lecithin-based surfactants in comparison to SDS and encourage further investigation.
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Schleusener J, Salazar A, von Hagen J, Lademann J, Darvin ME. Retaining Skin Barrier Function Properties of the Stratum Corneum with Components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor-A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Double-Blind In Vivo Study. Molecules 2021; 26:molecules26061649. [PMID: 33809557 PMCID: PMC8000920 DOI: 10.3390/molecules26061649] [Citation(s) in RCA: 9] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/26/2021] [Revised: 03/11/2021] [Accepted: 03/12/2021] [Indexed: 11/16/2022] Open
Abstract
The influence of a topically applied formulation containing components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) on barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study on 12 volunteers for 14 days. This method allowed for the elucidation of subtle differences between the verum and the placebo even though the components of the verum naturally occur in the SC. This differentiation is not possible non-invasively by conventional methods. In this study, we found that the applied verum and placebo formulations disrupted the equilibrium of water, NMF and lipids in the SC. The adverse effects of the formulation could be mitigated by incorporating it into a simplified supplementation of NMF molecules. As a long-term effect, the amount of strongly bound water increases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) and the amount of weakly bound water decreases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) for the verum. This supplement was also unexpectedly able to prevent intercellular lipids (ICL) disorganization in selected depths. In the long term, the verum treatment limited the lateral disorganization of the ICL to the upper 20% SC depth. Further research is required to elucidate the interplay of these factors in the SC, to better understand their contribution to the equilibrium and barrier function of the skin. This understanding of the interaction of these naturally occurring components could help in the future to develop and optimize topical treatments for diseases like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis where the skin barrier is disrupted.
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Affiliation(s)
- Johannes Schleusener
- Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Charité—Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Corporate Member of Freie Universität Berlin and Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany; (J.S.); (J.L.)
| | - Andrew Salazar
- Merck KGaA, Frankfurterstr. 250, 64293 Darmstadt, Germany; (A.S.); (J.v.H.)
| | - Jörg von Hagen
- Merck KGaA, Frankfurterstr. 250, 64293 Darmstadt, Germany; (A.S.); (J.v.H.)
| | - Jürgen Lademann
- Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Charité—Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Corporate Member of Freie Universität Berlin and Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany; (J.S.); (J.L.)
| | - Maxim E. Darvin
- Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Charité—Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Corporate Member of Freie Universität Berlin and Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany; (J.S.); (J.L.)
- Correspondence:
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4
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Gorzelanny C, Mess C, Schneider SW, Huck V, Brandner JM. Skin Barriers in Dermal Drug Delivery: Which Barriers Have to Be Overcome and How Can We Measure Them? Pharmaceutics 2020; 12:E684. [PMID: 32698388 PMCID: PMC7407329 DOI: 10.3390/pharmaceutics12070684] [Citation(s) in RCA: 85] [Impact Index Per Article: 21.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/05/2020] [Revised: 07/11/2020] [Accepted: 07/14/2020] [Indexed: 12/13/2022] Open
Abstract
Although, drugs are required in the various skin compartments such as viable epidermis, dermis, or hair follicles, to efficiently treat skin diseases, drug delivery into and across the skin is still challenging. An improved understanding of skin barrier physiology is mandatory to optimize drug penetration and permeation. The various barriers of the skin have to be known in detail, which means methods are needed to measure their functionality and outside-in or inside-out passage of molecules through the various barriers. In this review, we summarize our current knowledge about mechanical barriers, i.e., stratum corneum and tight junctions, in interfollicular epidermis, hair follicles and glands. Furthermore, we discuss the barrier properties of the basement membrane and dermal blood vessels. Barrier alterations found in skin of patients with atopic dermatitis are described. Finally, we critically compare the up-to-date applicability of several physical, biochemical and microscopic methods such as transepidermal water loss, impedance spectroscopy, Raman spectroscopy, immunohistochemical stainings, optical coherence microscopy and multiphoton microscopy to distinctly address the different barriers and to measure permeation through these barriers in vitro and in vivo.
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Affiliation(s)
| | | | | | | | - Johanna M. Brandner
- Department of Dermatology and Venerology, Center for Internal Medicine, University Medical Center Hamburg-Eppendorf, 20246 Hamburg, Germany; (C.G.); (C.M.); (S.W.S.); (V.H.)
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5
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van den Eijnde W, Heus R, Falcone D, Peppelman M, van Erp P. Skin Barrier Impairment due to the Occlusive Effect of Firefighter Clothing. Ann Work Expo Health 2020; 64:331-337. [PMID: 32016377 PMCID: PMC7571499 DOI: 10.1093/annweh/wxaa005] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/19/2019] [Revised: 12/09/2019] [Accepted: 01/09/2020] [Indexed: 11/29/2022] Open
Abstract
At fire scenes, firefighters are exposed to potentially harmful substances. Besides inhalation of these products, also skin contamination and the risk of dermal absorption is getting more attention. In this perspective, skin barrier impairment due to the occlusive effect of firefighter clothes could enhance the risk of penetration of hazardous substances. The effect of a firefighter jacket and cellophane on the skin was studied in a paired comparison involving 16 volunteers. Biophysical parameters were measured before, immediately after and 30 min after ending the occlusion. Reflectance confocal microscopy was used to study the skin morphology. Immediately after wearing a firefighter jacket, Transepidermal Water Loss values were significantly increased. This is an indication of an occlusive effect of the firefighter jacket. The skin barrier was fully restored after 30 min after occlusion with cellophane or wearing a firefighter jacket.
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Affiliation(s)
- Wilbert van den Eijnde
- Radboud University Nijmegen Medical Centre, Department of Dermatology, GL Nijmegen, The Netherlands
| | - Ronald Heus
- Institute for Safety, Knowledge Center Occupational Safety, RP Zoetermeer, The Netherlands
| | - Denise Falcone
- Radboud University Nijmegen Medical Centre, Department of Dermatology, GL Nijmegen, The Netherlands
| | - Malou Peppelman
- Radboud University Nijmegen Medical Centre, Department of Dermatology, GL Nijmegen, The Netherlands
| | - Piet van Erp
- Radboud University Nijmegen Medical Centre, Department of Dermatology, GL Nijmegen, The Netherlands
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6
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Ri JS, Choe SH, Schleusener J, Lademann J, Choe CS, Darvin ME. In vivo Tracking of DNA for Precise Determination of the Stratum Corneum Thickness and Superficial Microbiome Using Confocal Raman Microscopy. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2019; 33:30-37. [PMID: 31614347 DOI: 10.1159/000503262] [Citation(s) in RCA: 13] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/12/2019] [Accepted: 09/06/2019] [Indexed: 11/19/2022]
Abstract
The skin barrier function is mostly provided by the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost layer of the epidermis. To noninvasively analyze the physiological properties of the skin barrier functionin vivo, it is important to determine the SC thickness. Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) is widely used for this task. In the present in vivo study, a new method based on the determination of the DNA concentration profile using CRM is introduced for determining the SC thickness. The obtained SC thickness values are compared with those obtained using other CRM-based methods determining the water and lipid depth profiles. The obtained results show almost no significant differences in SC thickness for the utilized methods. Therefore, the results indicate that it is possible to calculate the SC thickness by using the DNA profile in the fingerprint region, which is comparable with the SC thickness calculated by the water depth profiles (ANOVA test p = 0.77) and the lipid depth profile (ANOVA test p = 0.74). This provides the possibility to measure the SC thickness by using the DNA profile, in case the water or lipid profile analyses are influenced by a topically applied formulation. The increase in DNA concentration in the superficial SC (0-2 µm) is related to the DNA presence in the microbiome of the skin, which was not present in the SC depth below 4 µm.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jin Song Ri
- Kim Il Sung University, Pyongyang, Democratic People's Republic of Korea
| | - Se Hyok Choe
- Kim Il Sung University, Pyongyang, Democratic People's Republic of Korea
| | - Johannes Schleusener
- Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Charité - Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Corporate Member of Freie Universität Berlin, Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, and Berlin Institute of Health, Berlin, Germany
| | - Jürgen Lademann
- Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Charité - Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Corporate Member of Freie Universität Berlin, Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, and Berlin Institute of Health, Berlin, Germany
| | - Chun Sik Choe
- Kim Il Sung University, Pyongyang, Democratic People's Republic of Korea
| | - Maxim E Darvin
- Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Charité - Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Corporate Member of Freie Universität Berlin, Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, and Berlin Institute of Health, Berlin, Germany,
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7
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Topical application of highly concentrated water-in-oil emulsions: Physiological skin parameters and skin penetration in vivo - A pilot study. Int J Pharm 2019; 571:118694. [PMID: 31525444 DOI: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2019.118694] [Citation(s) in RCA: 12] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/23/2019] [Revised: 09/05/2019] [Accepted: 09/11/2019] [Indexed: 01/29/2023]
Abstract
Important aspects in the development of new dermal drug delivery systems are the formulations' physicochemical properties and stability. Moreover, their influence on skin physiology and their penetration performance in vivo are of crucial interest. We have recently developed novel concentrated water-in-oil emulsions based on a non-ionic silicone surfactant; the present study deals with the effect of these formulations on physiological skin parameters of healthy volunteers after repeated application. Variations in skin condition and barrier integrity were investigated using classical biophysical and spectroscopic techniques. After four weeks of continuous treatment, no signs of skin irritation could be observed. Both tested emulsions had a positive effect on skin properties despite their relatively high water content and low lipid content. In vivo tape stripping studies revealed penetrated amounts of the incorporated model drug fluorescein sodium of almost 50% of the applied dose, with a superior performance of emulsions with isopropyl myristate when compared to liquid paraffin. In summary, our study confirmed the suitability of the developed W/O emulsions for pharmaceutic and cosmetic applications.
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8
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van Erp PEJ, Peppelman M, Falcone D. Noninvasive analysis and minimally invasive in vivo experimental challenges of the skin barrier. Exp Dermatol 2019; 27:867-875. [PMID: 30019358 DOI: 10.1111/exd.13743] [Citation(s) in RCA: 9] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/27/2018] [Revised: 06/27/2018] [Accepted: 07/13/2018] [Indexed: 12/19/2022]
Abstract
In this review, we aim to give a concise and selective overview of noninvasive biophysical analysis techniques for skin barrier analysis (transepidermal water loss, electrical methods, confocal Raman microspectroscopy, sebumeter, reflectance spectrophotometry, tristimulus colorimetry, diffuse reflectance spectroscopy and reflectance confocal microscopy), including advantages and limitations. Rather than giving an exhaustive description of the many techniques currently available, we show the usefulness of a representative selection of techniques in the functional and morphological evaluation of the skin barrier. Furthermore, we introduce human minimally invasive skin challenging models as a means to study the mechanisms regulating skin homoeostasis and disease and subsequently show how biophysical analysis techniques can be combined with these in vivo skin challenging models in the functional and morphological evaluation of the skin barrier in healthy human skin. We are convinced that the widespread application of biophysical analysis techniques in dermatological practice and in cosmetic sciences will prove invaluable in offering personalized and noninvasive skin treatment solutions. Furthermore, combining the human in vivo challenging models with these novel noninvasive techniques will provide valuable methodology and tools for detailed characterization of the skin barrier in health and disease.
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Affiliation(s)
- Piet E J van Erp
- Department of Dermatology, Radboud University Medical Center, Nijmegen, The Netherlands
| | - Malou Peppelman
- Department of Dermatology, Radboud University Medical Center, Nijmegen, The Netherlands
| | - Denise Falcone
- Department of Dermatology, Radboud University Medical Center, Nijmegen, The Netherlands
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9
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Wang H, Zhang Q, Mao G, Conroy O, Pyatski Y, Fevola MJ, Cula GO, Maitra P, Mendelsohn R, Flach CR. Novel confocal Raman microscopy method to investigate hydration mechanisms in human skin. Skin Res Technol 2019; 25:653-661. [PMID: 30932226 DOI: 10.1111/srt.12698] [Citation(s) in RCA: 5] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/19/2018] [Accepted: 02/14/2019] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Skin hydration is essential for maintaining stratum corneum (SC) flexibility and facilitating maturation events. Moisturizers contain multiple ingredients to maintain and improve skin hydration although a complete understanding of hydration mechanisms is lacking. The ability to differentiate the source of the hydration (water from the environment or deeper skin regions) upon application of product will aid in designing more efficacious formulations. MATERIALS AND METHODS Novel confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) experiments allow us to investigate mechanisms and levels of hydration in the SC. Using deuterium oxide (D2 O) as a probe permits the differentiation of endogenous water (H2 O) from exogenous D2 O. Following topical application of D2 O, we first compare in vivo skin depth profiles with those obtained using ex vivo skin. Additional ex vivo experiments are conducted to quantify the kinetics of D2 O diffusion in the epidermis by introducing D2 O under the dermis. RESULTS Relative D2 O depth profiles from in vivo and ex vivo measurements compare well considering procedural and instrumental differences. Additional in vivo experiments where D2 O was applied following topical glycerin application increased the longevity of D2 O in the SC. Reproducible rates of D2 O diffusion as a function of depth have been established for experiments where D2 O is introduced under ex vivo skin. CONCLUSION Unique information regarding hydration mechanisms are obtained from CRM experiments using D2 O as a probe. The source and relative rates of hydration can be delineated using ex vivo skin with D2 O underneath. One can envision comparing these depth-dependent rates in the presence and absence of topically applied hydrating agents to obtain mechanistic information.
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Affiliation(s)
- Hequn Wang
- Johnson and Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc., Skillman, New Jersey
| | - Qihong Zhang
- Department of Chemistry, Rutgers University, Newark, New Jersey
| | - Guangru Mao
- Johnson and Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc., Skillman, New Jersey
| | - Oscar Conroy
- Johnson and Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc., Skillman, New Jersey
| | - Yelena Pyatski
- Department of Chemistry, Rutgers University, Newark, New Jersey
| | - Michael J Fevola
- Johnson and Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc., Skillman, New Jersey
| | | | | | | | - Carol R Flach
- Department of Chemistry, Rutgers University, Newark, New Jersey
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10
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Richters RJH, Uzunbajakava NE, Timofeeva N, van de Kerkhof PCM, van Erp PEJ. Development of a Novel Approach to Studying Corneodesmosomes and Stratum Corneum Adhesion: Extending Knowledge on the Pathophysiology of Sensitive Skin. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2019; 32:81-93. [PMID: 30673682 DOI: 10.1159/000495070] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/05/2018] [Accepted: 11/01/2018] [Indexed: 11/19/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND/AIMS Aberrant skin barrier and intercorneocyte adhesion are potential contributors to the pathomechanism of sensitive skin (SS). Here we aimed to develop a novel and easy-to-apply method to analyze corneodesmosomes and to interrogate potential differences between corneocytes of subjects with SS and non-SS (NSS). METHODS Corneocytes of the volar forearm and upper outer quadrant of the left buttock of SS (n = 10) and NSS (n = 8) subjects were extracted as a function of depth using adhesive tape and stained with anti-desmoglein 1 (DSG1) antibody. The total area of corneocytes and the number and average size of cells per tape was estimated using image processing. RESULTS The total area of extracted corneocytes and the quantity of DSG1 decreased with depth. The level of decrease, total area of corneocytes, and average area of individual cells differed between anatomical locations. In SS, a larger total area of extracted corneocytes and a larger average cell size per tape was found at all inspected depths. CONCLUSION The developed novel and easy-to-apply approach allows investigation of corneodesmosome components. We confirm a role of altered corneocytes in the pathomechanism of SS. The disclosed protocol can further be optimized in studies of skin conditions with strongly affected corneodesmosomes.
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Affiliation(s)
- Renée J H Richters
- Department of Dermatology, Radboud university medical center, Nijmegen, The Netherlands
| | | | | | | | - Piet E J van Erp
- Department of Dermatology, Radboud university medical center, Nijmegen, The Netherlands
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11
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Bielfeldt S, Springmann G, Seise M, Wilhelm KP, Callaghan T. An updated review of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin - New perspectives and evaluation for claims support. Int J Cosmet Sci 2018; 40:348-355. [PMID: 30047989 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12484] [Citation(s) in RCA: 12] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/19/2018] [Accepted: 07/23/2018] [Indexed: 12/11/2022]
Abstract
With the advancement of skin research, today's consumer has increased access to an informed understanding of ageing skin and its appendages, together with a plethora of targeted products to meet such needs. In recent years, increased legislative demands for quality evidential claims support have led not only to the development and validation of clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin, but also a clearer understanding of the skin ageing process-especially the impact of both its internal and external environments-as well as a tougher stance on clearly unjustifiable claims. Traditional testing methods used to research and evaluate anti-ageing products claim to employ sophisticated instruments. Today, however, since the term anti-ageing can be considered a misnomer, intelligent use of combined more advanced clinical methods has enabled the development of technologically improved consumer products providing enhanced efficacy and targeted performance. Non-invasive methods for the assessment and quantification of the causes of ageing skin provide tools to the clinical researcher as defined by key clinically observed ageing parameters. Where evidence requires additional support, a number of clinical procedures evaluating ageing skin and hair products are combined with invasive procedures, thus enabling an added value to product claims. As discussed herein, given the enhanced understanding of ageing, we provide an update to our previous reviews of clinical methods used in the assessment of skin ageing, to include the wider aspects of environmental exposure; skin pigmentation; microbiome disturbance; surface topography; colour, radiance, and pH; and structural integrity-all requiring a disciplined approach to their use in dermatological investigations and product claims evidence.
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Affiliation(s)
- S Bielfeldt
- proDERM Institute for Applied Dermatological Research, 22869, Schenefeld/Hamburg, Germany
| | - G Springmann
- proDERM Institute for Applied Dermatological Research, 22869, Schenefeld/Hamburg, Germany
| | - M Seise
- proDERM Institute for Applied Dermatological Research, 22869, Schenefeld/Hamburg, Germany
| | - K-P Wilhelm
- proDERM Institute for Applied Dermatological Research, 22869, Schenefeld/Hamburg, Germany
| | - T Callaghan
- Callaghan Consulting International, 22587, Hamburg, Germany
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12
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Choe C, Schleusener J, Lademann J, Darvin ME. Human skin in vivo has a higher skin barrier function than porcine skin ex vivo-comprehensive Raman microscopic study of the stratum corneum. JOURNAL OF BIOPHOTONICS 2018; 11:e201700355. [PMID: 29460347 DOI: 10.1002/jbio.201700355] [Citation(s) in RCA: 52] [Impact Index Per Article: 8.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/23/2017] [Accepted: 02/18/2018] [Indexed: 06/08/2023]
Abstract
Porcine skin is widely used as a human skin model in dermatology. For both, porcine stratum corneum (SC) ex vivo and human SC in vivo, the hydrogen bonding states of water, the secondary and tertiary structures of keratin, the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) concentrations and the intercellular lipids' (ICL) lateral organization are investigated depth-dependently using confocal Raman microscopy. The SC depth profiles show that porcine SC ex vivo is characterized by lower hydrogen bonding states of water (10%-30% SC depth), lower NMF concentration in the whole SC, more β-sheet form of keratin (10%-90% SC depth), more folded tertiary keratin structures (30%-70% SC depth) and higher hexagonal lateral packing order of ICL (10%-50% SC depth) compared to human SC in vivo. The results clearly show a higher value of skin barrier function of human SC in vivo than of porcine SC ex vivo. Thus, the human SC in vivo is less permeable for lipophilic and hydrophilic substances than porcine SC ex vivo. Considering the porcine SC as an ex vivo model of human SC in vivo, these findings should be taken into consideration.
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Affiliation(s)
- ChunSik Choe
- Charité - Universitätsmedizin Berlin, corporate member of Freie Universität Berlin, Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, and Berlin Institute of Health, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany
- Kim Il Sung University, Ryongnam-Dong, Taesong District, Pyongyang, DPR Korea
| | - Johannes Schleusener
- Charité - Universitätsmedizin Berlin, corporate member of Freie Universität Berlin, Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, and Berlin Institute of Health, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany
| | - Jürgen Lademann
- Charité - Universitätsmedizin Berlin, corporate member of Freie Universität Berlin, Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, and Berlin Institute of Health, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany
| | - Maxim E Darvin
- Charité - Universitätsmedizin Berlin, corporate member of Freie Universität Berlin, Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, and Berlin Institute of Health, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany
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13
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Choe C, Schleusener J, Lademann J, Darvin ME. In vivo confocal Raman microscopic determination of depth profiles of the stratum corneum lipid organization influenced by application of various oils. J Dermatol Sci 2017; 87:183-191. [PMID: 28522139 DOI: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2017.04.016] [Citation(s) in RCA: 36] [Impact Index Per Article: 5.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/13/2017] [Revised: 04/05/2017] [Accepted: 04/28/2017] [Indexed: 11/16/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND The intercellular lipids (ICL) of stratum corneum (SC) play an important role in maintaining the skin barrier function. The lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in SC is not homogenous, but rather depth-dependent. OBJECTIVE This study aimed to analyze the influence of the topically applied mineral-derived (paraffin and petrolatum) and plant-derived (almond oil and jojoba oil) oils on the depth-dependent ICL profile ordering of the SC in vivo. METHOD Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM), a unique tool to analyze the depth profile of the ICL structure non-invasively, is employed to investigate the interaction between oils and human SC in vivo. RESULTS The results show that the response of SC to oils' permeation varies in the depths. All oils remain in the upper layers of the SC (0-20% of SC thickness) and show predominated differences of ICL ordering from intact skin. In these depths, skin treated with plant-derived oils shows more disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL than intact skin (p<0.05). In the intermediate layers of SC (30-50% of SC thickness), the oils do not influence the lateral packing order of SC ICL (p>0.1), except plant-derived oils at the depth 30% of SC thickness. In the deeper layers of the SC (60-100% of SC thickness), no difference between ICL lateral packing order of the oil-treated and intact skin can be observed, except that at the depths of 70-90% of the SC thickness, where slight changes with more disorder states are measured for plant-derived oil treated skin (p<0.1), which could be explained by the penetration of free fatty acid fractions in the deep-located SC areas. CONCLUSION Both oil types remain in the superficial layers of the SC (0-20% of the SC thickness). Skin treated with mineral- and plant-derived oils shows significantly higher disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in these layers of the SC compared to intact skin. Plant-derived oils significantly changed the ICL ordering in the depths of 30% and 70-90% of the SC thickness, which is likely due to the penetration of free fatty acids in the deeper layers of the SC.
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Affiliation(s)
- ChunSik Choe
- Charité - Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany; Kim Il Sung University, Ryongnam-Dong, Taesong District, Pyongyang, Democratic People's Republic of Korea
| | - Johannes Schleusener
- Charité - Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany
| | - Jürgen Lademann
- Charité - Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany
| | - Maxim E Darvin
- Charité - Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany.
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Richters RJH, Falcone D, Uzunbajakava NE, Varghese B, Caspers PJ, Puppels GJ, van Erp PEJ, van de Kerkhof PCM. Sensitive Skin: Assessment of the Skin Barrier Using Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2017; 30:1-12. [PMID: 28122376 DOI: 10.1159/000452152] [Citation(s) in RCA: 42] [Impact Index Per Article: 6.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/23/2016] [Accepted: 09/27/2016] [Indexed: 01/11/2023]
Abstract
BACKGROUND/AIMS Sensitive skin (SS), a frequently reported condition in the Western world, has been suggested to be underlined by an impaired skin barrier. The aim of this study was to investigate the skin barrier molecular composition in SS subjects using confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRS), and to compare it with that of non-SS (NSS) individuals as well as atopic dermatitis (AD) and allergic rhinoconjunctivitis (AR) subjects, who frequently report SS. METHODS Subjects with SS (n = 29), NSS (n = 30), AD (n = 11), and AR (n = 27) were included. Stratum corneum (SC) thickness, water, ceramides/fatty acids, and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) were measured by CRS along with transepidermal water loss and capacitance on the ventral forearm, thenar, and cheek. Sebum levels were additionally measured on the forearm and cheek. RESULTS No differences between SS and NSS subjects were found regarding SC thickness, water, and NMF content, yet a trend towards lower ceramides/fatty acids was observed in the cheek. Compared to AD subjects, the SS group showed higher ceramides/fatty acid content in the forearm, whereas no differences emerged with AR. The correlation of macroscopic biophysical techniques and CRS was weak, yet CRS confirmed the well-known lower content of NMF and water, and thinner SC in subjects with filaggrin mutations. CONCLUSION The skin barrier in SS is not impaired in terms of SC thickness, water, NMF, and ceramides/fatty acid content. The failure of biophysical techniques to follow alterations in the molecular composition of the skin barrier revealed by CRS emphasizes a strong need in sensitive and specific tools for in vivo skin barrier analysis.
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Affiliation(s)
- Renée J H Richters
- Radboud Institute for Molecular Life Sciences (RIMLS), Nijmegen, The Netherlands
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