Acid-Catalyzed Solvolysis of Softwood in Caprylyl Glycol to Produce Lignin Derivatives

Glycol lignin (GL) is produced via the acid-catalyzed solvolysis of softwood meal using glycols such as polyethylene glycol. The physicochemical and thermal properties of GL are expected to be controllable by varying the glycol type. In this study, caprylyl glycol (CG), which is a biobased glycol derived from the caprylic acid component of coconut and palm oils, was used to investigate the effects on the acid-catalyzed solvolysis of softwood. The reactions were performed at 140, 150, and 160 °C for 30-120 min to obtain lignin derivatives (CG-lignin: CGL). The chemical and physical properties of CGLs were investigated. Two-dimensional heteronuclear single-quantum coherence nuclear magnetic resonance analysis suggested that CGL possesses an α-CG-β-O-4 structure as CG is grafted onto the lignin structure. CGLs prepared at higher reaction temperatures exhibited lower molecular weights. The thermomechanical analysis of CGL revealed a glass transition temperature of 89-96 °C and a viscous thermal flow temperature of 134-155 °C.

Safety Assessment of Alkane Diols as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 10 alkane diol ingredients as used in cosmetics. The alkane diols are structurally related to each other as small diols, and most are reported to function in cosmetics as solvents. The Panel reviewed the relevant data for these ingredients, and concluded that seven alkane diols are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment, but that the available data are insufficient to make a determination of safety for three ingredients, namely 1,4-Butanediol, 2,3-Butanediol, and Octanediol.

Glycols: The ubiquitous solvent for dermal formulations

Glycols stand out as one of the most commonly employed safe and effective excipients for pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical products. Their widespread adoption can be attributed to their exceptional solvency characteristics and their ability to interact effectively with skin lipids and keratin for permeation enhancement. Notably, propylene glycol enjoys significant popularity in this regard. Ongoing research endeavours have been dedicated to scrutinising the impact of glycols on dermal drug delivery and shedding light on the intricate mechanisms by which glycols enhance skin permeation. This review aims to mitigate the discordance within the existing literature, assemble a holistic understanding of the impact of glycols on the percutaneous absorption of active compounds and furnish the reader with a profound comprehension of the foundational facets pertaining to their skin permeation enhancement mechanisms, while simultaneously delving deeper into the intricacies of these processes.

Occurrence of Allergens in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is characterized by symptoms such as stinging and tingling in response to stimuli that usually do not cause unpleasant sensations. Epidemiological studies show that individuals with sensitive skin are more prone to developing skin allergies, although the link between both conditions is unknown. Aiming to evaluate the presence of allergens in facial-skin products for sensitive skin, a pool of 88 cosmetic products from international brands marketed in pharmacies and parapharmacies was analyzed. A list of allergens identified in product labels was compiled and grouped according to their function. Fragrances were the most common allergens, followed by skin-conditioning agents, surfactants, and preservatives. Fragrances presenting the highest use percentages were linalool, benzyl alcohol, geraniol, and citronellol. Overall, the majority of cosmetic formulations were absent of fragrance allergens, being present only in 7% of products. Other allergens were found in most products (95%). This finding should be interpreted with caution, since many of these compounds are rare sensitizers and studies demonstrating their risk for individuals with sensitive skin are lacking. With this study, useful information for health professionals is provided to support their advice and to help consumers choosing cosmetic products.

Green, rapid and simultaneous determination of 'alternative preservatives' in cosmetic formulations by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry

Some hydroxylated compounds commonly used in cosmetic formulations including short chain glycols, benzylic alcohols, and organic acids show antimicrobial activity, although they are not considered as preservatives according to the existing European legislation. These 'alternative preservatives' are not exempt of potential side-effects for cosmetics users. The aim of this work is to develop a simple and affordable analytical method useful for the simultaneous and green determination of fourteen compounds used as 'alternative preservatives' in cosmetic samples with different matrices. The proposed method allows a rapid sample preparation by simple dissolution or dispersion of the sample in ethanol using ultrasound-assisted leaching of the analytes from the cosmetic matrix. Gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC-MS) is used for the analysis of the samples. Working conditions for the instrumental measure and the quantification of analytes were studied. The method was found to have high sensitivity and good precision (relative standard deviation below 13%) as well as low limits of detection (i.e., 0.01·10^-3-2.14·10^-3% w/w) and quantification (i.e., 0.04·10^-3-7.14·10^-3% w/w). The method was successfully applied to five commercial cosmetic samples of different composition. Recovery values near 100% were obtained. Each sample was found to contain at least three of the analytes of the study and their concentrations were determined with low standard deviations. The analytical features of the proposed method and the obtained results agree with the principles of Green Analytical Chemistry and make it a useful tool for controlling these alternative preservatives in the cosmetic industry in order to guarantee quality and safety of the products.

In vitro study to evaluate the antimicrobial activity of various multifunctional cosmetic ingredients and chlorphenesin on bacterial species at risk in the cosmetic industry

AIMS

We evaluated the activity of the preservative chlorphenesin and of four antimicrobial cosmetic multifunctional ingredients against various strains of gram-negative and gram-positive human opportunistic pathogens.

METHODS AND RESULTS

Growth kinetics, modelling growth parameters and statistical analyses enabled comparing bacterial behaviour in the presence and in the absence of the compound. Whatever compound tested (i.e. chlorphenesin, phenylpropanol, hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, hydroxyacetophenone) and strain origin (i.e. clinical versus industrial), the growth of 42 strains belonging to Acinetobacter spp., Burkholderia cepacia complex and Stenotrophomonas maltophilia, was totally inhibited. On the opposite all of the P. aeruginosa strains (n = 13) as well as 4 and 6 out of 10 strains of Pluralibacter gergoviae grew in the presence of chlorphenesin and ethylhexylglycerin, respectively. Some P. gergoviae and Staphylococcus hominis strains withstand hydroxyacetophenone. Within a species, the different strains show variable latency phase, growth rate (r) and carrying capacity (K). They can be similar, lower or higher than those measured in control conditions.

CONCLUSIONS

Data showed differences in the antimicrobial activity of compounds. Upon exposure, strains differed in their behaviour between and within species. Whatever species and strains, compound sensitivity could not be related to antibiotic resistance.

SIGNIFICANCE AND IMPACT OF THE STUDY

Most multifunctional ingredients showed significant antimicrobial properties against the wide panel of species and strains evaluated. This will help adjusting preservation strategies in the cosmetic industry.

Antibacterial Activity of the Mixed Systems Containing 1,2-Dodecanediol against Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis

1,2-Alkanediols are characteristic cosmetic ingredients because these moisturizers exhibit the antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) and Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis). However, the antimicrobial behavior in mixed systems containing several active ingredients is unclear because previous reports focus on an antibacterial system containing only 1,2-alkanediol. In this study, the minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC) and the fractional inhibitory concentration (FIC) were evaluated for 1,2-dodecanediol/lactic acid, 1,2-dodecanediol/myristic acid, 1,2-dodecanediol/methylparaben, and 1,2-dodecanediol/isopropyl methylphenol mixed systems to show the effect of the addition of other antimicrobial components to 1,2-dodecanediol. The antibacterial property of 1,2-dodecanediol/lactic acid mixed system was almost similar compared to 1,2-dodecanediol monomeric system. On the other hand, the antimicrobial activity of 1,2-dodecanediol against S. epidermidis was inhibited in the 1,2-dodecanediol/myristic acid mixed system. Because the selective antimicrobial activity of myristic acid against S. aureus was demonstrated in the mixed system. The present findings are useful for designing formulations of cosmetics and body cleansers containing 1,2-dodecanediol.

Hydrophilic and organophilic pervaporation of industrially important α,β and α,ω-diols

The distillation-based purification of α,β and α,ω-diols is energy and resource intensive, as well as time consuming. Pervaporation separation is considered to be a remarkable energy efficient membrane technology for purification of diols. Thus, as a core pervaporation process, hydrophilic polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) membranes for the removal of water from 1,2-hexanediol (1,2-HDO) and organophilic polydimethylsiloxane-polysulfone (PDMS-PSF) membranes for the removal of isopropanol from 1,5 pentanediol (1,5-PDO) were employed. For 1,2-HDO/water separation using a feed having a 1 : 4 weight ratio of 1,2-HDO/water, the membrane prepared using 4 vol% glutaraldehyde (GA4) showed the best performance, yielding a flux of 0.59 kg m-2 h-1 and a separation factor of 175 at 40 °C. In the organophilic pervaporation separation of the 1,5-PDO/IPA feed having a 9 : 1 weight ratio of components, the PDMS membrane prepared with a molar ratio of TEOS alkoxy groups to PDMS hydroxyl groups of 70 yielded a flux of 0.12 kg m-2 h-1 and separation factor of 17 638 at 40 °C. Long term stability analysis found that both hydrophilic (PVA) and organophilic (PDMS) membranes retained excellent pervaporation output over 18 days' continuous exposure to the feed. Both the hydrophilic and organophilic membranes exhibited promising separation performance at elevated operating conditions, showing their great potential for purification of α,β and α,ω-diols.

Integrated approaches to testing and assessment as a tool for the hazard assessment and risk characterization of cosmetic preservatives

The safety assessment of cosmetic products is based on the safety of the ingredients, which requires information on chemical structures, toxicological profiles, and exposure data. Approximately 6% of the population is sensitized to cosmetic ingredients, especially preservatives and fragrances. In this context, the aim of this study was to perform a hazard assessment and risk characterization of benzalkonium chloride (BAC), benzyl alcohol (BA), caprylyl glycol (CG), ethylhexylglycerin (EG), chlorphenesin (CP), dehydroacetic acid (DHA), sodium dehydroacetate (SDH), iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (IPBC), methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone (MCI/MIT), methylisothiazolinone (MIT), phenoxyethanol (PE), potassium sorbate (PS), and sodium benzoate (SB). Considering the integrated approaches to testing and assessment (IATA) and weight of evidence (WoE) as a decision tree, based on published safety reports. The hazard assessment was composed of a toxicological matrix correlating the toxicity level, defined as low (L), moderate (M), or high (H) and local or systemic exposure, considering the endpoints of skin sensitization, skin irritation, eye irritation, phototoxicity, acute oral toxicity, carcinogenicity, mutagenicity/genotoxicity, and endocrine activity. In a risk assessment approach, most preservatives had a margin of safety (MoS) above 100, except for DHA, SDH, and EG, considering the worst-case scenario (100% dermal absorption). However, isolated data do not set up a safety assessment. It is necessary to carry out a rational risk characterization considering hazard and exposure assessment to estimate the level of risk of an adverse health outcome, based on the concentration in a product, frequency of use, type of product, route of exposure, body surface location, and target population.

Dermatologic reactions to disinfectant use during the COVID-19 pandemic

Infection preventive practice of using disinfectants against SARS-CoV-2 has become the new normal due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Although disinfectants may not be applied directly to the human body, it remains at high risk of exposure including close skin contact on disinfected surfaces or during handling. This dermal contact, on a regular basis, can induce hazardous skin reactions like irritation, inflammation, and burning in severe conditions. Disinfectants are germicide chemicals that can penetrate the skin and create skin reactions that are usually regarded as irritant and allergic contact dermatitis. More importantly, disinfectants can react with skin components (proteins and lipids) to facilitate their skin penetration and disrupt the skin barrier function. Whereas the antimicrobial actions of disinfectants are well understood, much less is known regarding their dermatologic reactions, including but not limited to irritation and hypersensitivity. We reviewed the skin reactions created by those disinfectants against SARS-CoV-2 approved by the European Chemical Agency and the US Environmental Protection Agency.

Concentration profiles and safety of topically applied betulinic acid and NVX-207 in eight healthy horses-A randomized, blinded, placebo-controlled, crossover pilot study

The naturally occurring betulinic acid (BA) and its derivative NVX-207 show anticancer effects against equine malignant melanoma (EMM) cells and a potent permeation in isolated equine skin in vitro. The aim of the study was to determine the in vivo concentration profiles of BA and NVX-207 in equine skin and assess the compounds' local and systemic tolerability with the intent of developing a topical therapy against EMM. Eight horses were treated percutaneously in a crossover design with 1% BA, 1% NVX-207 or a placebo in a respective vehicle twice a day for seven consecutive days with a seven-day washout period between each formulation. Horses were treated at the neck and underneath the tail. Concentration profiles of the compounds were assessed by high-performance liquid chromatography in the cervical skin. Clinical and histopathological examinations and blood analyses were performed. Higher concentrations of NVX-207 were found in the skin compared to BA. Good systemic tolerability and only mild local adverse effects were observed in all three groups. This study substantiates the topical application of BA and NVX-207 in further clinical trials with horses suffering from EMM; however, penetration and permeation of the compounds may be altered in skin affected by tumors.

Gelled non-toxic microemulsions: phase behavior & rheology

Bicontinuous microemulsions gelled with a low molecular weight gelator have been shown to be an orthogonally self-assembled system. With the mechanical stability provided by the gel network, gelled non-toxic bicontinuous microemulsions have the potential to be an efficient transdermal drug delivery carrier. However, up to now no suitable system has been formulated for transdermal drug delivery. To fill this gap, we formulated and characterized a gelled non-toxic bicontinuous microemulsion suitable for the mentioned application. Starting from a previously studied scouting system, namely, H2O-n-octane-n-octyl β-d-glucopyranoside (β-C8G1)-1-octanol, the co-surfactant and the oil were replaced by non-toxic components. Subsequently, the expensive pure surfactant was replaced by cheap technical-grade surfactants (Plantacare® series) to make the system economical. Having formulated the non-toxic microemulsion H2O-IPM-Plantacare 1200 UP-1,2-octanediol, three low molecular weight gelators were studied with regard to the gelation of both the scouting system and the non-toxic system. The chosen gelators were 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid (12-HOA), 1,3:2,4-dibenzylidene-d-sorbitol (DBS), and N,N'-dibenzoyl-l-cystine (DBC). We found that only DBS gels the non-toxic microemulsion. The gelled non-toxic bicontinuous microemulsion H2O-IPM-Plantacare 1200 UP-1,2-octanediol was characterized with oscillatory shear rheometry and small-angle neutron scattering (SANS) at a DBS concentration of 0.3 wt% to verify that the system is indeed a gel and that the microstructure of the microemulsion is not altered by the gel network.

3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid: Characterisation and investigation of single solvent systems for delivery to the skin

l-ascorbic acid (AA), commonly known as vitamin C, has been widely used in topical formulations for many years as an antioxidant and anti-aging ingredient. However, the physicochemical properties of AA are not optimal for skin uptake and the molecule is also unstable, readily undergoing oxidation on exposure to air. The compound 3-o-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid (EA) has been developed as a stable vitamin C derivative and has been used in topical products. The aims of this work were to conduct a comprehensive characterisation of physicochemical properties of EA as well as to investigate the influence of various neat solvents on EA skin delivery. Nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR), mass spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) were used to characterise the molecule. The pK_a of the compound and the partition coefficient logP_(o/w) were experimentally determined. A new HPLC method for analysis of the molecule was also developed and validated. A number of solvents for topical preparations were selected based on their wide use as excipients in topical formulations, their potential to act as skin penetration enhancers and their favourable safety profiles. The solubility and stability of EA was examined. Skin permeation of the molecule in full thickness porcine skin in vitro was investigated using Franz-type diffusion cells. The melting point, log P_(o/w) value and pK_a value of EA were determined to be 114.39 ± 0.5 °C, −1.07 ± 0.03 and 7.72 ± 0.01 respectively. Skin penetration of EA was evident for the following vehicles 1,2 hexanediol (HEX), glycerol (GLY), propylene glycol (PG), 1,2 pentanediol (1-2P), isopropyl alcohol (IPA), propylene glycol monolaurate (PGML) and propylene glycol monocaprylate (PGMC). Skin uptake but no permeation through the skin was observed for Transcutol® (TC) and dipropylene glycol (DiPG), while no penetration was observed for the solvents 1,5 pentanediol (1-5P) and tripropylene glycol (TriPG). The findings of the permeation experiments confirm the potential of simple formulations to deliver EA to the skin. Studies are ongoing to identify complex vehicles for synergistic enhancement of EA skin penetration. To our knowledge this is the first study to conduct a comprehensive characterization of EA and examine its skin uptake and permeation properties in porcine skin.

New Force Field Model for Propylene Glycol: Insight to Local Structure and Dynamics

In this work we developed a new force field model (FFM) for propylene glycol (PG) based on the OPLS all-atom potential. The OPLS potential was refined using quantum chemical calculations, taking into account the densities and self-diffusion coefficients. The validation of this new FFM was carried out based on a wide range of physicochemical properties, such as density, enthalpy of vaporization, self-diffusion coefficients, isothermal compressibility, surface tension, and shear viscosity. The molecular dynamics (MD) simulations were performed over a large range of temperatures (293.15-373.15 K). The comparison with other force field models, such as OPLS, CHARMM27, and GAFF, revealed a large improvement of the results, allowing a better agreement with experimental data. Specific structural properties (radial distribution functions, hydrogen bonding and spatial distribution functions) were then analyzed in order to support the adequacy of the proposed FFM. Pure propylene glycol forms a continuous phase, displaying no microstructures. It is shown that the developed FFM gives rise to suitable results not only for pure propylene glycol but also for mixtures by testing its behavior for a 50 mol % aqueous propylene glycol solution. Furthermore, it is demonstrated that the addition of water to the PG phase produces a homogeneous solution and that the hydration interactions prevail over the propylene glycol self-association interactions.

Margin of safety of pentylene glycol derived using measurements of cutaneous absorption and volatility

The safety assessment of pentylene glycol (PG) has been based on a bioavailability extrapolated from those of other 1,2-glycols or an assumed 100% absorption. To make a better safety assessment and an accurate calculation of the margin of safety (MoS), the skin penetration of PG present in a commercially available sunscreen was measured in pig skin at different exposure durations. The mass balance of PG decreased with increasing exposure durations, from 98% (1 h) to 29% (24 h) and the amount of PG detected in the skin wash decreased over time from 93% to 3%. The decrease in mass balance was attributed to an unexpected volatility of PG, which was confirmed in additional experiments. The maximum bioavailable amount of PG was 123 μg/cm2 after 24 h and was considered to be worst case scenario (10 mg/cm² i.e. 5-fold the recommended application standard dose, 2 mg/cm²). MoS values for the application of a standard dose of sunscreen after 1-24 h exposure were 140-671 in adults and, if calculated for children ratios, 87-217 Based on the available toxicological data for PG in comparison to the amounts determined to be potentially bioavailable, PG in the test sun protection product SPF 50 + does not show any safety concerns for daily usage at the recommended dosage of 2 mg/cm² or lower.

Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) assessed the safety of 237 alkyl esters for use in cosmetics. The alkyl esters included in this assessment have a variety of reported functions in cosmetics, with skin-conditioning agent being the most common function. The Panel reviewed available animal and clinical data in making its determination of safety on these ingredients, and where there were data gaps, similarity in structure, properties, functions, and uses of these ingredients allowed for extrapolation of the available toxicological data to assess the safety of the entire group. The Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe in cosmetic formulations in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be nonirritating.