Safety Assessment of Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils

Safety Assessment of Palm-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 8 palm tree (Euterpe edulis (juçara) and Euterpe oleracea (açaí))-derived ingredients as used in cosmetic products; these ingredients are reported to function mostly as skin conditioning agents. The Panel reviewed relevant data relating to the safety of these ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Industry should continue to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities. The Panel concluded that palm tree (açaí and juçara)-derived ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Evaluation of the applicability of GARDskin to predict skin sensitizers in extracts from medical device materials

Biocompatibility testing of medical devices is governed by the ISO 10993 series of standards and includes evaluation of skin sensitization potential of the final product. A majority of all medical devices are tested using in vivo methods, largely due to the lack of in vitro methods validated within the applicability domain of solid materials. The GARDskin method for assessment of chemical skin sensitizers is a validated method included in the OECD Test Guideline 442E, based on evaluation of transcriptional patterns of an endpoint-specific genomic biomarker signature in a dendritic cell-like cell, following test chemical exposure. The current study aimed to evaluate the applicability of GARDskin for the purpose of testing solid materials by incorporation of extraction procedures described in ISO 10993-12:2021, as well as to demonstrate the functionality of the proposed protocols, by testing of custom-made materials spiked with sensitizing agents. It was shown that GARDskin is compatible with both polar and non-polar extraction vehicles frequently used for the purpose of medical device biological testing. Further, exploring three different material types spiked with up to four different sensitizing agents, as well as three unspiked control materials and commercial reference products, it was shown that the method correctly classified all evaluated test materials. Taken together, the data presented suggest that GARDskin may constitute a valid alternative to in vivo experimentation for the purpose of skin sensitization assessment of medical devices.

Safety Assessment of Soy-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 28 soy-derived ingredients as used in cosmetic products. These ingredients are reported to primarily function as antioxidants, skin protectants, skin-conditioning agents, and hair-conditioning agents. The Panel considered the available data relating to the safety of these ingredients in cosmetic formulations, and concluded that 24 of the 28 soy-derived ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment. The Panel also concluded that the available data are insufficient to make a determination that Glycine Max (Soybean) Callus Culture, Glycine Max (Soybean) Callus Culture Extract, Glycine Max (Soybean) Callus Extract, and Glycine Max (Soybean) Phytoplacenta Conditioned Media are safe under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

Safety Assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 13 Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients, which are most frequently reported to function in cosmetics as skin and hair conditioning agents. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing similar constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. Industry should use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients. The Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

A botanical reference set illustrating a weight of evidence approach for skin sensitization risk assessment

Recent years have seen an increase in the use of botanicals and natural substances (BNS) in consumer products such as cosmetics and household care products. Most work conducted to date to assess botanicals for human safety has focused their use as dietary supplements and thus on systemic toxicity. However, the induction of skin sensitization is a possible adverse effect of natural products in particular those that come into skin contact, especially for cosmetics that remain on the skin and are not rinsed off following use. Assessments of BNS ingredients are often challenging for a number of reasons: the BNS are complex mixtures that can be of mostly unknown composition; the composition can be highly variable even within the same plant species and dependent on how processed; the physical form of the BNS raw material can vary from a highly concentrated powdered extract to a liquid extract containing only a small percentage of the BNS; testing of the BNS raw materials in New Approach Methods (NAM) has uncertainty as these methods are often not developed or validated for complex mixtures. In this study, a reference set of 14 selected BNS which span the range of skin sensitization potential was complied. These data were used in a Weight of Evidence (WoE) approach to evaluate their skin sensitization potential with each of the data rich BNS being classified as either having strong evidence of inducing skin sensitization based on human topical use history, animal data, clinical data, composition data and NAM data, or having some but more limited (weak) evidence of inducing skin sensitization, or having strong evidence of no skin sensitization potential. When available data have sufficient potency related information, sensitization potency assessment is also provided based on WoE, classifying these BNS as either strong, moderate, or weak sensitizers, or non-sensitizers. An outline for a BNS skin sensitization risk assessment framework is proposed starting with exposure-based waiving and WoE assessment for higher exposures. In addition to demonstrating the application of the WoE approach, the reference set presented here provides a set of 'data rich' botanicals which cover a range of sensitization potencies that could be used for evaluating existing test methods or aid in the development of new predictive models for skin sensitization.

Peanut Glycerides

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed updated information that has become available since their original assessment from 2001, along with updated information regarding product types, and frequency and concentrations of use, and reaffirmed their original conclusion that Peanut Glycerides is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the practices of use and concentration as described in this report.

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed updated information that has become available since their original assessment from 1983, along with updated information regarding product types, and frequency and concentrations of use, and reaffirmed their original conclusion that Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal is safe for topical application to humans in the practices of use and concentration as described in this report.

Biowaxes from Palm Oil as Promising Candidates for Cosmetic Matrices and Pharmaceuticals for Human Use

The production of waxes from vegetable oils, such as palm oil, for use as a base material in products for human applications is an alternative to those derived from petroleum and animals. Seven palm oil-derived waxes, called biowaxes (BW1-BW7) in this work, were obtained by catalytic hydrotreating of refined and bleached African palm oil and refined palm kernel oil. They were characterized by three properties: compositional, physicochemical (melting point, penetration value, and pH), and biological (sterility, cytotoxicity, phototoxicity, antioxidant, and irritant). Their morphologies and chemical structures were studied by SEM, FTIR, UV-Vis, and ¹H NMR. The BWs presented structures and compositions similar to natural biowaxes (beeswax and carnauba). They had a high concentration of waxy esters (17%-36%) with long alkyl chains (C, 19-26) per carbonyl group, which are related to high melting points (<20-47.9 °C) and low penetration values (2.1-3.8 mm). They also proved to be sterile materials with no cytotoxic, phototoxic, antioxidant, or irritant activity. The biowaxes studied could be used in cosmetic and pharmacological products for human use.

Safety Assessment of Cocos nucifera (Coconut)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 11 Cocos nucifera (coconut)-derived ingredients, most of which are reported to function as skin-conditioning agents in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. The Panel concluded that 10 ingredients, derived from coconut flower, fruit, and liquid endosperm, are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment, and that the available data are insufficient to make a determination of safety for Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Shell Powder under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

LC-HR/MS Analysis of Lipophilic Extracts from Calendula arvensis (Vaill.) L. Organs: An Unexplored Source in Cosmeceuticals

As part of a project aimed at promoting the use of Calendula arvensis (Vaill.) L. (field marigold, Asteraceae) phytocomplexes in cosmeceutical formulations, the chemical composition in apolar specialized metabolites is herein elucidated. Furthermore, the screening of the cytotoxicity of the apolar extracts was evaluated in order to underline their safety as functional ingredients for cosmetics. After dissection of Calendula organs (florets, fruits, leaves, bracts, stems, and roots), ultrasound-assisted maceration in n-hexane as an extracting solvent allowed us to obtain oil-like mixtures, whose chemical composition has been highlighted through a UHPLC-ESI-QqTOF-MS/MS approach. Twenty-nine metabolites were tentatively identified; different compounds, among which the well-known poly-unsaturated fatty acids, and oxylipins and phosphatides were detected for the first time in Calendula genus. The screening of the dose-response cytotoxicity of the apolar extracts of C. arvensis highlighted the concentration of 10 μg/mL as the most suitable for the formulation of cosmeceutical preparations. Sera enriched with leaf and fruit apolar extracts turned out to have the best activity, suggesting it can be used as a new source in skin care thanks to their higher content in fatty acids.

Influence of aromatic substances on locomotor activity of Deroceras agreste slugs

The global climate changes are causing an increase in the number and harmfulness of slugs. Deroceras agreste (Linnaeus, 1758) (Stylommatophora, Agriolimacidae) is a polyphagous phytophage that damages over 150 species of plants, including many vegetables, cultivated berries and grasses. Other than decrease in yield, slugs cause deterioration of consumer qualities of the products, promote infections of plants, and are intermediate hosts of some parasites of mammals and birds. Thus, slugs impose great losses on agricultural farming, and therefore the objective of our study was determining the variability of locomotor activity of D. agreste slugs in reaction to aromatic substances. We determined repellent or attractive effects of those substances for the purpose of further using the obtained data for plant protection. We tested 52 substances and their mixtures, which were conditionally divided into the following groups: chemical solvents, plant extracts, aromatizers, organic acids and synthetic cosmetic additives. Only dimethyl sulfoxide could be identified as an attractant. All the rest of the substances increased the speed of the slugs to various degrees, but had no significant effect on the direction of the animals’ movement. Gasoline increased the speed of the slugs’ movement by 3.20 times, xylene by 4.56. The most effective organic acids and aromatizers to increase the moving speed of slugs were avobenzone and formic acid: the first caused a 2.83-fold increase in the moving speed, the other a 3.16-fold increase. Only one of 13 aromatic substances changed the direction of the slugs’ movement during the experiment – β-ionone. As with the plant extracts, the highest effect on locomotor activity of slugs was exerted by tree bark of Quillaja saponaria (3.64-fold) and Aesculus hippocastanum extract (4.33-fold). Furthermore, together with Capsicum frutescens, they changed the direction the mollusks were moving in, and therefore could be used as repellents. Synthetic cosmetic additives hydrolyzed silk and chrysalide oil exerted the greatest effects on the lcomotor activity of slugs (3.16 and 3.20 times, respectively). A total of 78.6% of the slugs moved away from chrysalide oil, and thus this oil may be suggested as a repellent, as well as mousse de babassu and cocamidopropyl betaine (84.6% and 78.6%, respectively). Therefore, a large amount of the tested substances to one or another extent made the slugs move faster, but most of them did not alter the direction in which the slugs were moving.

Skin occlusive performance: sustainable alternatives for petrolatum in skincare formulations

BACKGROUND

The emollients are important ingredients used in skincare formulations that can act as moisturizing agents through their occlusive potential, preventing skin water loss. Consumer interest in natural and sustainable products has grown considerably in the last few years, requiring efforts from the cosmetic industry to design products with raw materials of natural, organic and sustainable origin. Thus, it is essential to improve the knowledge about the behavior of cosmetic raw materials that can be used as sustainable alternatives to synthetic ingredients.

AIM

This work aimed to evaluate the occlusive performance of different vegetable oils used as emollients in skincare cosmetics, through comparative analysis with petrolatum, a synthetic emollient with a high occlusive skin potential.

METHOD

The study included 80 healthy female adult volunteers. TEWL measurements were performed before and after 15 minutes, 2 and 6 hours of emollients application on the forearms of the research participants. All research participants provided written informed consent.

RESULTS

The results obtained showed that the vegetable oils were effective in providing an occlusive effect on the skin. When compared to the petrolatum, the vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.

CONCLUSION

Vegetable oils can be used as a sustainable alternative to synthetic emollients and they are promising in replacing petrolatum in skincare formulations with respect to the occlusion effect of the skin. The vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect (15 minutes post-application) as the petrolatum, which is known to have increased occlusion properties. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.

Análisis del rótulo y características de los jabones utilizados en la piel del recién nacido

Objetivo:

Analizar la información del rótulo, y las características físicas y fisicoquímicas de los jabones usados en recién nacidos (RN).

Método:

Estudio cuantitativo y descriptivo de 17 jabones comercializados en San Pablo, Brasil. Se analizó la información del rótulo (tensioactivos, pruebas de seguridad y descripción del valor de pH), y las características físicas (color y fragancia) y fisicoquímicas (valor de pH) del producto; las dos últimas, en laboratorio.

Resultados:

Se identificaron 27 tipos de tensioactivos: 70,3% (n=19) aniónicos, 18,5% (n=5) anfóteros y 11,1% (n=3) no iónicos. El 37% (n=10) tuvo un potencial moderado de irritación. En cuanto a las pruebas de seguridad, la mayoría de las formulaciones (94,1%) citó “dermatológicamente probado”. Sólo 42% citó “oftalmológicamente probado”. La translucidez estuvo presente en 23,5% (n=4) de los jabones. Todas las formulaciones presentaron fragancia. El promedio más alto de valor de pH fue de jabones en barra tradicionales (9,94 DE 0,81).

Conclusión:

Las formulaciones analizadas indicaron un potencial de irritación bajo o moderado. Cuatro jabones líquidos y uno en barra combinados tuvieron valores cercanos a los del pH de la piel del RN, y mostraron ser adecuados para la homeostasis de la barrera cutánea. Aunque las formulaciones citaron “dermatológicamente probado”, no todas citaron “oftalmológicamente probado”. Este estudio proporciona elementos para seleccionar un jabón adecuado para el RN.

Safety Assessment of PEGylated Alkyl Glycerides as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 60 PEGylated alkyl glycerides. PEGylated alkyl glycerides are mono-, di-, and/or triglycerides that have been modified with ethylene glycol repeat units (in the starting material form as epoxide). Most of the PEGylated alkyl glycerides are reported to function as skin-conditioning agents or surfactants. The Panel reviewed the available animal and clinical data as well as data from the 1999 report for the 5 polyethylene glycol (PEG) glyceryl cocoates and the 2012 report of PEGylated oils, to determine the safety of these ingredients. The Panel concluded these ingredients are safe in the current practices of use and concentration when formulated to be nonirritating; this conclusion supersedes the 1999 conclusion issued on 5 PEG glyceryl cocoate ingredients.

Phytochemicals With Anti 5-alpha-reductase Activity: A Prospective For Prostate Cancer Treatment

Prostate cancer (CaP) is one of the leading causes of death in men worldwide. Much attention has been given on its prevention and treatment strategies, including targeting the regulation of 5-alpha-Reductase (5αR) enzyme activity, aimed to limit the progression of CaP by inhibiting the conversion of potent androgen dihydrotestosterone from testosterone that is thought to play a role in pathogenesis of CaP, by using the 5-alpha-Reductase inhibitors (5αRis) such as finasteride and dutasteride. However, 5αRis are reported to exhibit numerous adverse side effects, for instance erectile dysfunction, ejaculatory dysfunction and loss of libido. This has led to a surge of interest on plant-derived alternatives that might offer favourable side effects and less toxic profiles. Phytochemicals from plants are shown to exhibit numerous medicinal properties in various studies targeting many major illnesses including CaP. Therefore, in this review, we aim to discuss the use of phytochemicals namely phytosterols, polyphenols and fatty acids, found in various plants with proven anti-CaP properties, as an alternative herbal CaP medicines as well as to outline their inhibitory activities on 5αRs isozymes based on their structural similarities with current 5αRis as part of CaP treatment approaches.

Clinical use of Capilen, a liposomal cream based on fresh plant extracts enriched with omega fatty acids

The skin is the largest organ in the human body; beyond its regulatory and sensory roles, it is meant to protect and act like a barrier against foreign matter. Products intended to restore the skin health should reintegrate the structure of the stratum corneum in which the corneocytes are surrounded by the intercellular lipid lamellae that maintain both corneum integrity and skin permeability barrier. Capilen is a specific liposomal formulation based on a technology through which highly concentrated fresh plant extracts are conveyed into a jelly-like liposomal vehicle and combined with plant-derived omega-3, -6, -7, and -9 fatty acids, phospholipids, and precursors of ceramides. Its components have been widely investigated and produced clinical benefits in atopic dermatitis, bedsores, scars, inflammatory lesions of the skin, and generally whenever signs of xerosis cutis were present. Liposomes contribute to restore the surface lipid layer of the skin and to deliver substances in the activity site. This liposomal cream was proven to limit and delay the occurrence of radiodermatitis in breast cancer patients, and as an add-on provided complete healing of bedsore lesions in geriatric subjects.

An Overview on the Properties of Ximenia Oil Used as Cosmetic in Angola

Ximenia (Ximenia americana L.) is a shrub, or small tree, native from Africa and spread across different continents. In Angola, the seeds oil is used by local populations, to prevent sunburn, to smooth and hydrate the skin, and to give it a pleasant color and elasticity, to prevent stretch marks, in pregnant woman, and also as hair conditioner. Herein, an oil sold in the region (LPO), and two others extracted in laboratory, from seeds collected in the same region, were investigated in terms of their composition, chemical properties, UV transmission. The three oils are similar although the LPO is more acidic, 0.48 mg KOH/g. GC-MS analysis indicated that the major components are the fatty acids, oleic (31.82%), nervonic (11.09%), ximenic (10.22%), and hexacosa-17,20,23-trienoic acids (14.59%). Long chain fatty acids, n ≥ 20, accounted for 51.1% of the total fatty acids. A thin film of the oil showed a reduction in transmittance from 200 to 300 nm. Viscosity studies of the LPO indicated that at normal temperature of skin, the oil can be spread over the skin as a thin film. At concentrations up to 10 µg/mL, the LPO is not toxic to human keratinocytes, suggesting the safety of this oil.

Safety Assessment of Avena sativa (Oat)-Derived Ingredients As Used in Cosmetics

This is a safety assessment of Avena sativa (oat)-derived ingredients. The reported functions of these ingredients in cosmetics include abrasives, antioxidant, skin conditioning agents, absorbents, and bulking agents. The Panel reviewed relevant animal and human data related to these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may lead to sensitization or other toxic effects. The Panel stated that industry should continue to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities and concluded that all but one of the Avena sativa (oat)-derived ingredients are safe as cosmetic ingredients in the practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be nonsensitizing; data are insufficient to come to a conclusion of safety for Avena Sativa (Oat) Meristem Cell Extract.

Safety Assessment of Camellia sinensis-Derived Ingredients As Used in Cosmetics

Cosmetic ingredients derived from Camellia sinensis (tea) plant parts function as antioxidants and skin conditioning agents-humectant and miscellaneous. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (Panel) reviewed relevant animal and human data related to these ingredients. The use of the leaf ingredients in beverages results in much larger systemic exposures than those possible from cosmetic use. Accordingly, concern over the systemic toxicity potential of leaf-derived ingredients is mitigated. Because product formulations may contain multiple botanical ingredients, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may lead to sensitization or other toxic effects. The Panel concluded that the C sinensis leaf-derived ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be nonsensitizing. However, the available data are insufficient to determine whether the non-leaf-derived ingredients are safe for use in cosmetics.

Use of Vegetable Oils to Improve the Sun Protection Factor of Sunscreen Formulations

Some vegetable oils have many biological properties, including UV-absorbing capacity. Therefore, their use has been suggested to reduce the content of organic UV-filters in sunscreen products. In this work, we investigated the feasibility of developing oil-based vehicles with a high sun protection factor (SPF) using pomegranate oil (PMG) and shea oil (BPO) in association with different percentages of organic UV-filters (octyl– methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and bemotrizinol). We characterized the spreadability, occlusion factor, pH, and required hydrophilic lipophilic balance of the resulting formulations, and did not observe relevant differences due to the incorporation of vegetable oils. The in vitro spectrophotometric determinations of SPF values highlighted that the addition of BPO (1% (w/w)) and PMG (1% (w/w)) resulted in an increase in SPF in comparison with the same formulations that contained only organic UV-filters. The SPF increase was more significant for the formulations that contained lower amounts of organic UV-filters. The results of this study supported the hypothesis that including suitable vegetable oils in sunscreen formulations could be a promising strategy to design products with a lower content of organic UV-filters.