Safety Assessment of Tocopherols and Tocotrienols as Used in Cosmetics

Carbomer Hydrogels with Microencapsulated α-Tocopherol: Focus on the Biocompatibility of the Microcapsules, Topical Application Attributes, and In Vitro Release Study

The microencapsulation of α-tocopherol based on the complex coacervation of low-molecular-weight chitosan (LMWC) and sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES) without harmful crosslinkers can provide biocompatible carriers that protect it from photodegradation and air oxidation. In this study, the influence of the microcapsule wall composition on carrier performance, compatibility with a high-water-content vehicle for topical application, and release of α-tocopherol were investigated. Although the absence of aldehyde crosslinkers decreased the encapsulation efficiency of α-tocopherol (~70%), the variation in the LMWC/SLES mass ratio (2:1 or 1:1) had no significant effect on the moisture content and microcapsule size. The prepared microcapsule-loaded carbomer hydrogels were soft semisolids with pseudoplastic flow behavior. The integrity of microcapsules embedded in the hydrogel was confirmed by light microscopy. The microcapsules reduced the pH, apparent viscosity, and hysteresis area of the hydrogels, while increasing their spreading ability on a flat inert surface and dispersion rate in artificial sweat. The in vitro release of α-tocopherol from crosslinker-free microcapsule-loaded hydrogels was diffusion-controlled. The release profile was influenced by the LMWC/SLES mass ratio, apparent viscosity, type of synthetic membrane, and acceptor medium composition. Better data quality for the model-independent analysis was achieved when a cellulose nitrate membrane and ethyl alcohol 60% w/w as acceptor medium were used.

Fabrication, characterization and release behavior of α-tocopherol acetate-loaded pH-responsive polyhydroxybutyrate/cellulose acetate phthalate microbeads

Microbeads are used in personal care and cosmetic products (PCCPs) but are produced from nondegradable materials. Biodegradable polyhydroxybutyrate (PHB) has been recognized as a promising alternative material for use in PCCPs; however, utilizing PHB to encapsulate PCCPs is challenging because PCCPs need to be protected from the environment but their release needs to be permitted under specific physiological conditions. The aim of this work was to develop and evaluate pH-responsive cellulose acetate phthalate (CAP) to formulate lipophilic α-tocopherol acetate (α-TA)-loaded pH-responsive PHB/CAP microbeads. The influences of the PHB/CAP ratio and initial α-TA loading on the microbead size, surface morphology, encapsulation efficiency (%EE), loading capacity (%LC), and α-TA release profile were studied. The microbeads exhibited a spherical shape with a size of 328.7 ± 2.9 μm. The EE and LC were 86.7 ± 2.6 % and 13.5 ± 0.4 %, respectively. The release profile exhibited pH-responsive characteristics. These α-TA-loaded pH-responsive microbeads were stable with >50 % of the α-TA remaining after 90 days at 4, 25 and 45 °C in the dark. The results from the cytotoxicity assay with PSVK1 cells demonstrated that the microbeads were nontoxic. Hence, our developed formulation has the potential to be used to encapsulate oil-based drugs to formulate lipophilic substance-loaded pH-responsive microbeads.

Marine Animal Co-Products-How Improving Their Use as Rich Sources of Health-Promoting Lipids Can Foster Sustainability

Marine lipids are recognized for their-health promoting features, mainly for being the primary sources of omega-3 fatty acids, and are therefore critical for human nutrition in an age when the global supply for these nutrients is experiencing an unprecedent pressure due to an ever-increasing demand. The seafood industry originates a considerable yield of co-products worldwide that, while already explored for other purposes, remain mostly undervalued as sustainable sources of healthy lipids, often being explored for low-value oil production. These co-products are especially appealing as lipid sources since, besides the well-known nutritional upside of marine animal fat, which is particularly rich in omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids, they also have interesting bioactive properties, which may garner them further interest, not only as food, but also for other high-end applications. Besides the added value that these co-products may represent as valuable lipid sources, there is also the obvious ecological upside of reducing seafood industry waste. In this sense, repurposing these bioresources will contribute to a more sustainable use of marine animal food, reducing the strain on already heavily depleted seafood stocks. Therefore, untapping the potential of marine animal co-products as valuable lipid sources aligns with both health and environmental goals by guaranteeing additional sources of healthy lipids and promoting more eco-conscious practices.

Can vitamin E ester derivatives be excellent alternatives of vitamin E: state of art

Vitamin E (VE) is a natural antioxidant which is widely used in the food fields, while the shortcomings of easy oxidative inactivation and poor water solubility limit its application. Vitamin E esters' (VEEs) derivatives, such as vitamin E acetate (VEA), are more stable and easier to be absorbed while have similar biological activities and physiological functions compared with VE. In this systematic review, the digestion, absorption and physiological function of VEEs were summarized. To promote their further industrial applications, the synthesis strategies of VEEs were also summarized in-depth. In particular, as a new generation of green solvents, ionic liquids (ILs) have been widely used in enzymatic reactions due to the stabilization and activation of enzymes. Their applications in enzymatic synthesis of VEEs were summarized and discussed. Finally, several future perspectives for developing more efficiency strategies of VEEs synthesis, such as enzyme engineering and design of novel ILs, were also discussed.

Natural Compounds of Fungal Origin with Antimicrobial Activity-Potential Cosmetics Applications

The phenomenon of drug resistance in micro-organisms necessitates the search for new compounds capable of combating them. Fungi emerge as a promising source of such compounds as they produce a wide range of secondary metabolites with bacteriostatic or fungistatic activity. These compounds can serve as alternatives for commonly used antibiotics. Furthermore, fungi also accumulate compounds with antiviral activity. This review focuses on filamentous fungi and macrofungi as sources of antimicrobial compounds. The article describes both individual isolated compounds and extracts that exhibit antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral activity. These compounds are produced by the fruiting bodies and mycelium, as well as the biomass of mycelial cultures. Additionally, this review characterizes the chemical compounds extracted from mushrooms used in the realm of cosmetology; specifically, their antimicrobial activity.

Development of Olive Oil and α-Tocopherol Containing Emulsions Stabilized by FucoPol: Rheological and Textural Analyses

Biobased raw materials like natural polysaccharides are increasingly sought by the cosmetic industry for their valuable properties. Such biodegradable and usually non-cytotoxic biopolymers are commonly used in skin-care products as rheological modifiers, bioemulsifiers and/or bioactive ingredients. FucoPol is a natural polysaccharide with reported biocompatibility, emulsion-forming and stabilizing capacity, shear-thinning behavior and bioactivity (e.g., antioxidant capacity, wound healing ability) that potentiate its utilization in skin-care products. In this study, olive oil and α-tocopherol containing emulsions were stabilized with FucoPol. Although the presence of α-tocopherol negatively impacted the emulsions’ stability, it increased their emulsification index (EI). Moreover, FucoPol outperformed the commercial emulsifier Sepigel^® 305, under the tested conditions, with higher EI and higher stability under storage for 30 days. The formulation of FucoPol-based emulsions with olive oil and α-tocopherol was studied by Response Surface Methodology (RSM) that allowed the definition of the ingredients’ content to attain high emulsification. The RSM model established that α-tocopherol concentration had no significant impact on the EI within the tested ranges, with optimal emulsification for FucoPol concentration in the range 0.7–1.2 wt.% and olive oil contents of 20–30 wt.%. Formulations with 25 wt.% olive oil and either 0.5 or 2.0 wt.% α-tocopherol were emulsified with 1.0 wt.% or 0.7 wt.% FucoPol, respectively, resulting in oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. The emulsions had similar shear-thinning behavior, but the formulation with higher FucoPol content displayed higher apparent viscosity, higher consistency, as well as higher firmness, adhesiveness and cohesiveness, but lower spreadability. These findings show FucoPol’s high performance as an emulsifier for olive oil/α-tocopherol, which are supported by an effective impact on the physicochemical and structural characteristics of the emulsions. Hence, this natural polysaccharide is a potential alternative to other emulsifiers.

Ceylon cinnamon and clove essential oils as promising free radical scavengers for skin care products

Due to adverse effects of free radicals on human skin and increasing consumer demand for natural ingredients, essential oils from basil, Ceylon cinnamon bark, clove, juniper, lavender, oregano, rosemary, tea tree, thyme, and ylang-ylang were assessed for their antiradical activity. The oils were evaluated in the concentration range of 5—0.1 mg·mL−1, in which the three reference synthetic antioxidants are most often added to mass-produced cosmetics. Among all examined samples, C. cinnamon oil at a concentration of 5 mg·mL−1 showed the strongest DPPH radical scavenging activity (0.41 mg·mL−1 IC50), followed by clove oil, BHA, α-tocopherol, and BHT (0.82, 0.84, 0.88 and 0.93 mg·mL−1 IC50), respectively. At the same concentration, the reduction power of C. cinnamon oil was higher (1.64 mg·mL−1 Trolox Eq.) than that of α-tocopherol and BHT (1.42 and 0.80 mmol·L−1 Trolox Eq., respectively) but lower than that of BHA (1.81 mmol·L–1 Trolox Eq.). Antiradical activity of the other eight essential oils was low or negligible. C. cinnamon oil and clove oil are promising antiradical agents for skin care but according to our GC-MS analysis, these oils contain 0.29 % of cinnamaldehyde, 0.03 % of linalool, 0.02 % of D-limonene, and 0.02 % of eugenol or 0.41 % of eugenol and 0.002 % of linalool, respectively, which are monitored contact allergens in cosmetics. Such a product is not be suitable for consumers allergic to these substances but for the vast majority of consumers it does not pose a risk in terms of allergic manifestations.

Contribution of Nanoscience Research in Antioxidants Delivery Used in Nutricosmetic Sector

Nanoscience applications in the food and cosmetic industry offer many potential benefits for consumers and society. Nanotechnologies permit the manipulation of matter at the nanoscale level, resulting in new properties and characteristics useful in food and cosmetic production, processing, packaging, and storage. Nanotechnology protects sensitive bioactive compounds, improves their bioavailability and water solubility, guarantees their release at a site of action, avoids contact with other constituents, and masks unpleasant taste. Biopolymeric nanoparticles, nanofibers, nanoemulsions, nanocapsules, and colloids are delivery systems used to produce food supplements and cosmetics. There are no barriers to nanoscience applications in food supplements and cosmetic industries, although the toxicity of nano-sized delivery systems is not clear. The physicochemical and toxicological characterization of nanoscale delivery systems used by the nutricosmeceutic industry is reviewed in this work.

Hair dye use and prostate cancer risk: A prospective analysis in the Alpha-Tocopherol, Beta-Carotene Cancer Prevention Study cohort

BACKGROUND

According to the International Agency for Research on Cancer, some hair dye chemicals are considered mutagenic and carcinogenic in humans. One hospital-based study reported a positive association between hair dye use and prostate cancer risk, but no prospective analyses have been conducted.

METHODS

This study investigated the association between hair dye use and prostate cancer risk in the Alpha-Tocopherol, Beta-Carotene Cancer Prevention Study cohort, a large, well-characterized cohort of 29,133 male Finnish smokers. Participants completed questionnaires regarding lifestyle, medical, and risk factor information, including the use of hair dye, which was available for 98.8% of the cohort (28,795 men). Prostate cancer cases were identified through linkage with the Finnish Cancer Registry and the Finnish Mortality Register. Hazard ratios (HRs) and confidence intervals (CIs) were estimated via multivariable Cox proportional hazards regression.

RESULTS

During a 28-year period of observation, 2703 incident prostate cancer cases were diagnosed. As reported at the baseline, 75 men used hair dye, and 13 of these men were subsequently diagnosed with prostate cancer. After adjustments for potential confounders, men who used hair dyes experienced substantially higher prostate cancer risk than men who did not (HR, 1.77; 95% CI, 1.03-3.05).

CONCLUSIONS

This first prospective investigation of hair dye use and prostate cancer suggests that personal hair dye use may be related to increased risk. The findings warrant re-examination in other prospective cohorts along with studies evaluating specific hair dyes and possible underlying biological mechanisms.

α-Tocopherol phosphate as a photosensitizer in the reaction of nucleosides with UV light: formation of 5,6-dihydrothymidine

Introduction

α-Tocopherol phosphate, a natural water-soluble α-tocopherol analog, exists in biological tissues and fluids. Synthesized α-tocopherol phosphate is used as an ingredient of cosmetics.

Findings

When a neutral mixed solution of 2′-deoxycytidine, 2′-deoxyguanosine, thymidine, and 2′-deoxyadenosine was irradiated with UV light at wavelengths longer than 300 nm in the presence of α-tocopherol phosphate, thymidine was markedly consumed in an α-tocopherol phosphate dose-dependent manner, whereas other nucleosides only slightly decreased. Two major product peaks were detected in an HPLC chromatogram. The products were identified as diastereomers of 5,6-dihydrothymidine. The addition of radical scavengers had almost no effects on the generation of 5,6-dihydrothymidine, whereas the reactions of nucleosides other than thymidine were suppressed. Trolox, another water-soluble α-tocopherol analog, did not generate 5,6-dihydrothymidine, although all nucleosides were slightly consumed. When UV irradiation of thymidine with α-tocopherol phosphate was conducted in D₂O, two deuterium atoms were added to 5 and 6 positions of thymidine with both syn and anti configurations. The ratio of syn and anti configurations alternated depending on pD of the solution.

Conclusions

The results indicate that α-tocopherol phosphate is a photosensitizer of nucleosides, especially thymidine, and that it introduces two hydrogen atoms to thymidine from H₂O, generating 5,6-dihydrothymidine.

Effect of two postharvest technologies on the micronutrient profile of cashew kernels from Mozambique

The economics involved in processing cashew nuts (Anacardium occidentale) might alter micronutrient profiles and concentrations. We analyzed and evaluated carotenoids, tocopherols, tocotrienols, minerals, fatty acids, and amino acids in (1) cashew kernels with testa recovered from nuts dried with and without the apple, and (2) testa-free industrial grade baby butts, splits, and white whole kernels using HPLC, ICP-OES, and GC-MS techniques. The results indicated that drying cashews with the respective apple slightly decreased the concentration of some carotenoids and total fatty and amino acids, but increased the concentration of iron, magnesium, and total tocotrienols compared with the conventionally (sun-) dried kernels. We also found high concentrations of carotenoids in the testa-containing kernels. Among the industrially processed kernel, baby butt grade was associated with lower content of β-carotene, total tocopherols, and tocotrienols, but with significantly higher concentrations in minerals, fatty acids, and amino acids than in white wholes and split grades. Conventional sun drying of cashew nuts revealed results similar to drying with apples regarding micronutrient concentrations. The high micronutrient content of industrial grade BB is reflected in widespread human consumption and better market value.

Identification of Novel Simulants for Toxic Industrial Chemicals and Chemical Warfare Agents for Human Decontamination Studies: A Systematic Review and Categorisation of Physicochemical Characteristics

Chemical simulants have long been used in human trials of mass decontamination to determine the efficacy of decontamination interventions against more toxic agents. Until now, reliance has mostly been on individual chemicals as surrogates to specific agents (e.g., methyl salicylate for sulphur mustard). A literature review was conducted to identify chemicals that had been previously tested on human volunteers and that represent diverse physicochemical characteristics in order to create a repository for chemical simulants. Of the 171 unique chemicals identified, 78 were discounted for the risk they could pose to human volunteers, 39 were deemed suitable for use, and a further 54 were considered to be possible simulants but would require further research. Suitable simulants included both solid and liquid chemicals spanning a wide range of physicochemical properties including molecular weight, octanol/water partition coefficient, vapour pressure, and solubility. This review identifies an array of potential simulants suitable for use in human volunteer decontamination studies and is of relevance to future studies on systemic absorption and surface decontamination.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

Patch Testing With Tocopherol and Tocopherol Acetate: The North American Contact Dermatitis Group Experience, 2001 to 2016

BACKGROUND

Vitamin E (tocopherol) a naturally occurring mixture of antioxidants commonly used in topical skin care products, may cause allergic contact dermatitis.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was to characterize positive patch test reactions to tocopherol and tocopherol acetate.

METHODS

This is a retrospective analysis of North American Contact Dermatitis Group patch test data to tocopherols (DL-α-tocopherol 100% and/or DL-α-tocopherol acetate 100%) from 2001 to 2016.

RESULTS

Of the 38,699 patients patch tested to tocopherol and/or tocopherol acetate, 349 (0.9%) had positive reactions; of these, 87.6% were currently relevant. Most (51.4%) were weak (+) and/or not related to occupation (99.1%). Compared with tocopherol-negative patients, tocopherol-positive individuals were more likely to be female (72.5% vs 67.2%, P = 0.0355), have a final primary diagnosis of allergic contact dermatitis (74.2% vs 52.6%, P < 0.0001), and have dermatitis in a scattered generalized distribution (23.8% vs 18.2%, P = 0.0072); they were also less likely to have hand involvement (16.6% vs 22.3%, P = 0.0064). The most common source of tocopherol was personal care products, especially moisturizers.

CONCLUSIONS

Positive patch test reactions to tocopherols were relatively rare given their widespread use. When positive, current clinical relevance was high. Tocopherol-positive patients were more likely to be female and presented with dermatitis on the face or in a scattered generalized pattern.

Role of Palm Oil Vitamin E in Preventing Pre-eclampsia: A Secondary Analysis of a Randomized Clinical Trial Following ISSHP Reclassification

Background: Preeclampsia is a significant cause of maternal and perinatal mortality worldwide. Oxidative stress plays a key role in its pathophysiology, hence antioxidants such as tocotrienol may be preventive against preeclampsia. In 2018, the ISSHP revised the definition of preeclampsia. In accordance with the new definition, we report a secondary data analysis from a clinical trial comparing palm oil vitamin E in the form of tocotrienol-rich fraction (TRF) against placebo, in preventing preeclampsia.

Method: A randomized double-blind controlled trial was conducted in 2002–2005 to assess the benefits of TRF in preeclampsia prevention. A total of 299 primigravidae were recruited. The intervention group was supplemented with TRF 100 mg daily in super-olein capsules, whereas the placebo group was prescribed super-olein capsules without TRF, beginning from 12 to 16 gestational weeks until delivery. The primary outcome measure was incidence of preeclampsia.

Results: The total incidence of pregnancy induced hypertension (PIH) was 5%, whereas the incidence of preeclampsia was 2.3%. The odds of developing PIH (adjusted OR 0.254; 95% CI: 0.07–0.93; p–value 0.038) and preeclampsia (adjusted OR 0.030; 95% CI: 0.001–0.65; p-value 0.025) were significantly lower in the TRF arm compared to the placebo arm.

Conclusion: Antenatal supplementation with palm oil vitamin E in the form of TRF is associated with significant reductions in the incidence of preeclampsia and PIH in a single urban tertiary hospital. Palm oil vitamin E deserves further scrutiny as a potential public health preventive measure against preeclampsia and PIH.