Photostability of commercial sunscreens upon sun exposure and irradiation by ultraviolet lamps

Ring buckling and C=N isomerization pathways for efficient photoprotection in two nature-inspired UVA sunscreens revealed through ultrafast dynamics and high-level calculations

Sunscreens provide a frontline defense for our DNA against the damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The active ingredients in topically applied sunscreens that provide this defense are UV filters, which preferentially absorb or reflect UV radiation before it penetrates the skin and interacts with photosensitive nucleic acids. However, there are concerns related to human and environmental toxicity of current UV filters, and consequently a shift toward nature-inspired, particularly microbial, UV filters. In this paper, new physical insight is provided into the fundamental mechanisms of photoprotection in two synthetic analogs of mycosporine-like amino acid-type UV filters, demonstrating new methods of protection that are distinct from those of current commercial sunscreens, extending previous work in this area. Transient absorption measurements (both transient electronic absorption spectroscopy and transient vibrational absorption spectroscopy) are combined with steady-state studies and high-level computational results to aid our mapping of the experimentally derived lifetimes to real-time photodynamic processes. The conclusions reached here pave the way toward developing new and more efficient biomimetic DNA photoprotectant materials.

Sun protection, progress, myths, and inconsistencies (a proposal for the democratization of ISO 24443)

The concept of modern human sun protection is no more than one hundred years, but real development of it, including protection against UVA + UVB radiation (and more recently also the IR and blue light), has been no more than 30 years. One fundamental issue while formulating sunscreens is the photostability of the UV filters, which is particularly feeble for the UVA. The gold standard for the determination of sunscreen UVA protection "in vitro" is ISO 24443:2021. Still, interlaboratory results are not as consistent as expected. The Technical Committee for Cosmetics (ISO TC 217) has tried to standardize the method with precise specifications for the materials and equipment used. In particular, the standardization of UV exposure sources based on Xe arc lamps. This fact requires expensive equipment out of the reach of many laboratories to achieve adequate temperature control on the samples. In this paper, it will be shown that, within the experimental error, satisfactory results were achieved with a cheap commercial LED source irradiating only in the UVA spectra. Evidence is presented to conclude that other more relevant factors must be considered as the main cause of uncertainties.

Sun protection and antibacterial activities of carotenoids from the soft coral Sinularia sp. symbiotic bacteria from Panjang Island, North Java Sea

Carotenoids have shown beneficial applications in cosmetology, pharmacology, and medicine. However, environmental stress in the marine environment can trigger the production of unique secondary metabolites, such as carotenoids. These compounds can also be sustainably produced by symbiotic bacteria. We hypothesized that the soft corals in tropical regions may produce diverse biological secondary metabolites, including carotenoids, both by the host organism and their bacterial symbiont. The unique carotenoids may provide promising biological activity such as antioxidant, UV photoprotector, and antibacterial activities. To this end, we isolated and characterized the carotenoids isolated from the bacterial symbiont of Sinularia sp., a soft coral from Panjang Island, North Java Sea, strain 19. PP.Sc.13. Bacterial identification was performed using DNA barcoding of the 16S rRNA region. Identification of carotenoids was carried out using a spectrophotometer, High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC), and attenuated total reflection fourier-transformed infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy. The antioxidant activity was estimated using the diphenylpicrylhydrazyl (DPPH) method, while the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and % transmission of erythema and pigmentation were determined based on colorimetric methods. The antibacterial activity assay was carried out using the agar diffusion method against two multidrug-resistant bacteria. The bacterial symbiont was identified as Virgibacillus sp. and the carotenoids isolated from this symbiont exhibited significant antioxidant activity and extra sun protection effect, thus categorized as UVA sunblock. Furthermore, the isolated carotenoids exhibited antibacterial activities against Methicillin Resistant-Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) and Multidrug-resistant (MDR) Escherichia coli. This study provides evidence of the carotenoids produced by the soft coral bacterial symbiont Virgibacillus sp., which may be used as an antioxidant, sun protection, and antibacterial agent. Further investigation of the de novo biological production of carotenoids by Virgibacillus sp. is warranted.

Spectroscopic insight on impact of environment on natural photoprotectants

Biomimicry has become a key player in researching new materials for a whole range of applications. In this study, we have taken a crude extract from the red algae Palmaria palmata containing mycosporine-like amino acids - a photoprotective family of molecules. We have applied the crude extract onto a surface to assess if photoprotection, and more broadly, light-to-heat conversion, is retained; we found it is. Considering sunscreens as a specific application, we have performed transmission and reflection terahertz spectroscopy of the extract and glycerol to demonstrate how one can monitor stability in real-world applications.

Peptide Cysteine Thiols Act as Photostabilizer of Avobenzone through Stabilising the Transition State of Keto-enol Tautomerization

Photostabilizers have been used to impart stability to an FDA-approved chemical UV-A filter avobenzone against the UV-A radiations and sunlight. The thiol group of glutathione plays a critical role in imparting the photostabilization activity of glutathione on avobenzone. The current report aims to evaluate the photostabilization activity of multiple thiols containing cysteine peptides on avobenzone. Cysteine-tripeptide and cysteine-pentapeptide were chemically synthesized and characterized using mass spectrometry. Synthetic peptides were assessed for their photostabilization activity on the enolic-form of the avobenzone under natural sunlight using UV-spectroscopy in both protic and aprotic solvents. Unlike glutathione which has pronounced activity in protic solvents, cysteine-pentapeptide exhibits similar photoprotection activity in both protic and aprotic solvents. Computational calculations using DFT suggest that peptide cysteine thiols may assist in the reversal of the photoketonization process of avobenzone thereby exhibiting the photoprotection activity to the enolic-form of avobenzone. Peptide cysteine thiols lower the activation energy barrier of keto-to-enol tautomerization of avobenzone by 30 kcal/mol by assisting the proton shuttle through a six-membered transition state. The current report emphasizes the applications of peptide thiols in cosmetics and may help in the development of peptides as aesthetic medicines.

A Perspective on Femtosecond Pump-Probe Spectroscopy in the Development of Future Sunscreens

Given the negative impacts of overexposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on humans, sunscreens have become a widely used product. Certain ingredients within sunscreens are responsible for photoprotection and these are known, collectively herein, as ultraviolet (UV) filters. Generally speaking, organic UV filters work by absorbing the potentially harmful UVR and dissipating this energy as harmless heat. This process happens on picosecond time scales and so femtosecond pump–probe spectroscopy (FPPS) is an ideal technique for tracking this energy conversion in real time. Coupling FPPS with complementary techniques, including steady-state spectroscopy and computational methods, can provide a detailed mechanistic picture of how UV filters provide photoprotection. As such, FPPS is crucial in aiding the future design of UV filters. This Perspective sheds light on the advancements made over the past two years on both approved and nature-inspired UV filters. Moreover, we suggest where FPPS can be further utilized within sunscreen applications for future considerations.

From Khoi-San indigenous knowledge to bioengineered CeO2 nanocrystals to exceptional UV-blocking green nanocosmetics

Single phase CeO₂ nanocrystals were bio-synthesized using Hoodia gordonii natural extract as an effective chelating agent. The nanocrystals with an average diameter of 〈Ø〉 ~ 5-26 nm with 4⁺ electronic valence of Ce displayed a remarkable UV selectivity and an exceptional photostability. The diffuse reflectivity profile of such CeO₂ exhibited a unique UV selectivity, in a form of a Heaviside function-like type profile in the solar spectrum. While the UV reflectivity is significantly low; within the range of 0.7%, it reaches 63% in the VIS and NIR. Their relative Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) production was found to be < 1 within a wide range of concentration (0.5-1000 μg/ml). This exceptional photostability conjugated to a sound UV selectivity opens a potential horizon to a novel family of green nano-cosmetics by green nano-processing.

UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects

The use of sunscreens is an established and recommended practice to protect skin from solar-induced damage. Around 30 UV filters can be used in sunscreen products in the European Union, which ought to follow the requirements of the regulation 1223/2009 to ensure their efficacy and safety for humans. Nevertheless, low photostability and putative toxicity for humans and environment have been reported for some UV filters. Particularly, the negative impact in marine organisms has recently raised concern on the scientific community. Therefore, it is important to develop new UV filters with improved safety profile and photostability. Over the last two decades, nearly 200 new compounds have revealed promising photoprotection properties. The explored compounds were obtained through different approaches, including exploration of natural sources, synthetic pathways, and nanotechnology. Almost 50 natural products and around 140 synthetic derivatives, such as benzimidazoles, benzotriazoles, hydroxycinnamic acids, xanthones, triazines, among others, have been studied aiming the discovery of novel, effective, and safer future photoprotective agents. Herein, we provide the reader with an overview about UV filters’ challenges and prospects, offering a forward-looking to the next-generation of UV filters.

Photoprotective effect of the fucose-containing polysaccharide FucoPol

This study reports the performance of FucoPol, a fucose-containing bacterial polysaccharide, as a photostable agent with high absorption yield at concentrations as low as 0.02 % (w/v). FucoPol is non-cytotoxic, efficiently protects from UVA and UVB at concentrations of 0.02-2 % (w/v) and 0.2-2 % (w/v), respectively, has over 94 % overall photostability up to 1.5 h of irradiation time. The lowest concentration studied (0.02 %, w/v) shows a sun protection factor (SPF) of 2.61 ± 0.08. The SPF-to-concentration unit ratio showed that FucoPol is about 60-fold more photoprotective than combinations of common organic and inorganic UV filters. In vitro radiation exposure experiments of adhered Vero epithelial and PM1 keratinocytic cells in the presence of 0.25 % (w/v) FucoPol further showed that cell viability was preserved, and delayed radiation-induced cell death was prevented. Overall, FucoPol outperforms common cosmetic biopolymers like xanthan and fucogel. These results are very promising for the development of bio-based sunscreen formulations.

Sunscreens and their usefulness: have we made any progress in the last two decades?

Sunscreens have now been around for decades to mitigate the Sun's damaging ultraviolet (UV) radiation which, although essential for the existence of life, is a recognized prime carcinogen. Accordingly, have suncreams achieved their intended purposes towards protection against sunburns, skin photo-ageing and the like? Most importantly, however, have they provided the expected protection against skin cancers that current sunscreen products claim to do? In the last two decades, there have been tens, if not hundreds of studies on sunscreens with respect to skin protection against UVB (280‒320 nm)-traditionally sunscreens with rather low sun protection factors (SPF) were intended to protect against this type of radiation-and UVA (320‒400 nm) radiation; a distinction between SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) is made. Many of the studies of the last two decades have focused on protection against the more skin-penetrating UVA radiation. This non-exhaustive article reviews some of the important facets of what is currently known about sunscreens with regard (i) to the physical UV filters titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) and the mostly photo-unstable chemical UVB/UVA filters (e.g., octinoxate (OMC) and avobenzone (AVO), among others), (ii) to novel chemical sunscreen agents, (iii) to means that minimize the breakdown of chemical filters and improve their stability when exposed to UV sunlight, (iv) to SPF factors, and (v) to a short discussion on non-melanoma skin cancers and melanoma. Importantly, throughout the article we allude to the safety aspects of sunscreens and at the end ask the question: do active ingredients in sunscreen products pose a risk to human health, and what else can be done to enhance protection? Significant loss of skin protection from two well-known commercial suncreams when exposed to simulated UV sunlight. Cream I: titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, avobenzone, and octinoxate; Cream II: octyl salicylate, oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate.

Unravelling the Photoprotective Mechanisms of Nature-Inspired Ultraviolet Filters Using Ultrafast Spectroscopy

There are several drawbacks with the current commercially available ultraviolet (UV) filters used in sunscreen formulations, namely deleterious human and ecotoxic effects. As a result of the drawbacks, a current research interest is in identifying and designing new UV filters. One approach that has been explored in recent years is to use nature as inspiration, which is the focus of this review. Both plants and microorganisms have adapted to synthesize their own photoprotective molecules to guard their DNA from potentially harmful UV radiation. The relaxation mechanism of a molecule after it has been photoexcited can be unravelled by several techniques, the ones of most interest for this review being ultrafast spectroscopy and computational methods. Within the literature, both techniques have been implemented on plant-, and microbial-inspired UV filters to better understand their photoprotective roles in nature. This review aims to explore these findings for both families of nature-inspired UV filters in the hope of guiding the future design of sunscreens.

Unravelling the Keto-Enol Tautomer Dependent Photochemistry and Degradation Pathways of the Protonated UVA Filter Avobenzone

Avobenzone (AB) is a widely used UVA filter known to undergo irreversible photodegradation. Here, we investigate the detailed pathways by which AB photodegrades by applying UV laser-interfaced mass spectrometry to protonated AB ions. Gas-phase infrared multiple-photon dissociation (IRMPD) spectra obtained with the free electron laser for infrared experiments, FELIX, (600–1800 cm^–1) are also presented to confirm the geometric structures. The UV gas-phase absorption spectrum (2.5–5 eV) of protonated AB contains bands that correspond to selective excitation of either the enol or diketo forms, allowing us to probe the resulting, tautomer-dependent photochemistry. Numerous photofragments (i.e., photodegradants) are directly identified for the first time, with m/z 135 and 161 dominating, and m/z 146 and 177 also appearing prominently. Analysis of the production spectra of these photofragments reveals that that strong enol to keto photoisomerism is occurring, and that protonation significantly disrupts the stability of the enol (UVA active) tautomer. Close comparison of fragment ion yields with the TD-DFT-calculated absorption spectra give detailed information on the location and identity of the dissociative excited state surfaces, and thus provide new insight into the photodegradation pathways of avobenzone, and photoisomerization of the wider class of β-diketone containing molecules.

Revisiting the Role of Irradiance in the Determination of Sunscreens' Sun Protection Factor

The efficacy of a sunscreen tends to be associated with its sun protection factor (SPF) value, a figure determined in a test that relies on the independence of the SPF value to both UV radiation dose and irradiance. We probe these assumptions when photoinduced product degradation is present, and we estimate that the theoretical limit for their validity is when the sunfilter active molecule relaxation time is faster than ∼10 ns. While such threshold relaxation time should be compatible with the expected ultrafast relaxation mechanisms of sunfilter molecules (picoseconds), recent research on sunfilter photodynamics has identified the existence of much longer-lived molecular states. Such long lifetimes could compromise sunscreen performance and make the SPF value very different in natural sun irradiance conditions than in the solar simulated conditions typically used in SPF determination tests.

Retinoic acid grafted to hyaluronan for skin delivery: Synthesis, stability studies, and biological evaluation

All-trans retinoic acid (ATRA) was grafted to hyaluronan (HA) via esterification. The reaction was mediated by mixed anhydrides. A perfect control of the degree of substitution (0.5-7.5%) was obtained by varying the molar ratio of retinoic acid in the feed. The degree of substitution plays a significant role in the long-term stability. The photodegradation of HA-ATRA upon UVA irradiation resulted in β-ionone, β-cyclocitral and 5,6-epoxy-(E)-retinoic acid. The photostability of the conjugate had increased with the combination with morin. The chemical structure of HA-ATRA and its degradation products was elucidated using NMR spectroscopy, SEC-MALLS, and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). ATRA did not loss its biological activity after conjugation, as demonstrated by gene expression. The derivative was able to penetrate across the stratum corneum. Besides, HA-ATRA downregulated the expression of anti-inflammatory interleukins 6 and 8. HA-ATRA would be expected to be used for transdermal drug delivery or cosmetics.

Suboptimal UVA attenuation by broad spectrum sunscreens under outdoor solar conditions contributes to lifetime UVA burden

BACKGROUND

Broad spectrum sunscreens with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15 or greater are indicated to decrease the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging caused by the sun if used as directed with other sun protection measures. To determine whether sunscreen product performance is compromised under solar exposure and to test spectral uniformity of protection across the UVA spectrum, we tested broad spectrum sunscreens with a variety of active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) and in a variety of dosage forms.

METHODS

A cross-sectional market survey of 32 sunscreen drug products containing either organic or inorganic APIs with SPFs of 15, 30, 50, and 70 was tested. UV doses were delivered via natural sun in Silver Spring, Maryland between June and September of 2017.

RESULTS

Of the 32 sunscreen drug products, 6 products failed to meet their broad spectrum claim under solar exposure. Using FDA's new proposal to strengthen sunscreen broad spectrum requirements, spectral uniformity based on the mean sunscreen absorbance of UVA1(340-400 nm)/UV (290-400 nm) indicated that ~40% of sunscreen drug products tested had suboptimal UVA protection.

CONCLUSION

US consumers may unknowingly be receiving up to 36% more transmitted UVA when selecting between similarly labeled broad spectrum sunscreen drug products with equivalent SPF values. FDA's new proposal may help decrease consumers' overall lifetime UVA burden. Spectral absorbance data on sunscreen performance can be used to further improve the coupling of broad spectrum protection to a product's SPF value so that consumers have improved proportional increases in UV protection.

Role of sunscreen formulation and photostability to protect the biomechanical barrier function of skin

The impact of sunscreen formulations on the barrier properties of human skin are often overlooked leading to formulations with components whose effects on barrier mechanical integrity are poorly understood. The aim of this study is to demonstrate the relevance of carrier selection and sunscreen photostability when designing sunscreen formulations to protect the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC) from solar ultraviolet (UV) damage. Biomechanical properties of SC samples were assayed after accelerated UVB damage through measurements of the SC's mechanical stress profile and corneocyte cohesion. A narrowband UVB (305-315 nm) lamp was used to expose SC samples to 5, 30, 125, and 265 J cm-2 in order to magnify damage to the mechanical properties of the tissue and characterize the UV degradation dose response such that effects from smaller UV dosages can be extrapolated. Stresses in the SC decreased when treated with sunscreen components, highlighting their effect on the skin prior to UV exposure. Stresses increased with UVB exposure and in specimens treated with different sunscreens stresses varied dramatically at high UVB dosages. Specimens treated with sunscreen components without UVB exposure exhibited altered corneocyte cohesion. Both sunscreens studied prevented alteration of corneocyte cohesion by low UVB dosages, but differences in protection were observed at higher UVB dosages indicating UV degradation of one sunscreen. These results indicate the protection of individual sunscreen components vary over a range of UVB dosages, and components can even cause alteration of the biomechanical barrier properties of human SC before UV exposure. Therefore, detailed characterization of sunscreen formulation components is required to design robust protection from UV damage.

Glutathione as a photo-stabilizer of avobenzone: an evaluation under glass-filtered sunlight using UV-spectroscopy

Avobenzone is the most widely used UVA filter in sunscreen lotion and it is prone to degradation in the presence of sunlight/UV radiation. To overcome the photo-instability of avobenzone, various photostabilizers have been used as additives, including antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and ubiquinone. In the present study, the well known antioxidant, glutathione, was evaluated for protecting avobenzone from photodegradation in the presence of glass-filtered sunlight. The features of glutathione as a skin whitener and a radical scavenger in cells have prompted the assessment of the photostabilzing activity of glutathione on avobenzone. Glutathione significantly attenuated the glass-filtered sunlight-induced degradation of avobenzone at equimolar or higher ratios of glutathione and avobenzone. Mutational studies have been undertaken to investigate the role of the thiol group and the isopeptide bond of glutathione on its photoprotection activity towards avobenzone. The thiol group of glutathione plays a vital role in exhibiting the photoprotection activity, which was further supported by the studies on photodegradation of avobonzone in the presence of β-mercaptoethanol. The dual role of glutathione as a skin whitening agent and a photostabilizer of avobenzone may be useful for the development of multipurpose cosmetic lotions.

Assessment of the general quality of sunscreen products available in Palestine and method verification of the sun protection factor using Food and Drug Administration guidelines

BACKGROUND

Sunlight exposure affects all skin types causing skin tanning, burns or even skin cancer. Sunscreens were invented to prevent these outcomes by scattering or absorbing the UV light.

AIMS

This study aimed to verify the effectiveness of Mansur method in SPF measurement and to find out how much reliable the labeled sun protection factor (SPF) value for the products that are imported to Palestine knowing that they are considered as cosmetics and they don't undergo tests by the Ministry Of Health (MOH).

MATERIALS

In this research, sun protection factor (SPF) was determined for 16 commercially available sunscreen products using Mansur equation which was also validated; moreover sunscreen classification, product phase determination and pH measurement were also done.

RESULTS

Sun protection factor values were mostly 50, 43.75% of the analyzed samples were close to the labeled SPF, 31.25% were under the labeled value, and 25% SPF value above the labeled value. All samples exhibited a pH close to skin pH. 62% of them were found to be O/W. Cosmetic companies and importers should focus on pediatric sunscreens, since only 12.5% are pediatric sunscreens.

CONCLUSIONS

Ministry Of Health should ask prove about the quality of an SPF value of sunscreens for final registration of these products. More instructions should be available on the label regarding the proper use especially, if they are not water proof.

Sunscreen products impair the early developmental stages of the sea urchin Paracentrotus lividus

Marine ecosystems are increasingly threatened by the release of personal care products. Among them, sunscreens are causing concern either for the effects on skin protection from UV radiation and for the potential impacts on marine life. Here, we assessed the UVA protective efficacy of three sunscreens on human dermal fibroblasts, including two common products in Europe and USA, and an eco-friendly product. The sunscreens' effects were also tested on Paracentrotus lividus, a marine species possibly threatened by these contaminants. We found that all tested sunscreens had similar efficacy in protecting human fibroblasts from UVA radiation. Conversely, the sunscreens' effects on embryo-larval development of P. lividus were dependent on the product tested. In particular, the USA sunscreen, containing benzophenone-3, homosalate and preservatives, caused the strongest impact on the sea urchin development, whereas the eco-friendly sunscreen determined the weakest effects. These results suggest that although the tested products protected human skin cells from UVA-induced damage, they might severely affect the success of recruitment and survival of the sea urchin. Our findings underline the importance of developing eco-friendly sunscreens for minimising or avoiding the impact on marine life while protecting human skin from UV damage.

Photolysis and cellular toxicities of the organic ultraviolet filter chemical octyl methoxycinnamate and its photoproducts

Organic ultraviolet filter chemicals (UVFCs) are the active ingredients used in many sunscreens to protect the skin from UV light; these chemicals have been detected in numerous aquatic environments leading to concerns about how they might affect aquatic organisms and humans. One commonly used organic UVFC is octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), better known by its commercial name, octinoxate. Upon exposure to UV light, OMC degrades rapidly, forming numerous photoproducts, some of which have been previously identified. In this study, we isolated and completely characterized the major products of OMC photolysis, including the two major stable OMC cyclodimers. One of these cyclodimers is a δ-truxinate, resulting from a head-to-head dimerization of two OMC molecules, and the other cyclodimer is an α-truxillate, resulting from a head-to-tail dimerization of two OMC molecules. Additionally, the cellular toxicities of the individual photoproducts were determined; it was found that the parent UVFC, OMC, 4-methoxybenzaldehyde, and two cyclodimers are significantly toxic to cells. The photoproduct 2-ethylhexanol is not cytotoxic, demonstrating that different components of OMC photolysate contribute differently to its cellular toxicity. This study thus provides an enhanced understanding of OMC photolysis and gives toxicity data that can be used to better evaluate OMC as a sunscreen agent.

Pressurized liquid extraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry for confirming the photo-induced generation of dioxin-like derivatives and other cosmetic preservative photoproducts on artificial skin

The stability and photochemical transformations of cosmetic preservatives in topical applications exposed to UV-light is a serious but poorly understood problem. In this study, a high throughput extraction and selective method based on pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) coupled to gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) was validated and applied to investigate the photochemical transformation of the antioxidant butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), as well as the antimicrobials triclosan (TCS) and phenyl benzoate (PhBz) in an artificial skin model. Two sets of photodegradation experiments were performed: (i) UV-Irradiation (8W, 254nm) of artificial skin directly spiked with the target preservatives, and (ii) UV-irradiation of artificial skin after the application of a cosmetic cream fortified with the target compounds. After irradiation, PLE was used to isolate the target preservatives and their transformation products. The follow-up of the photodegradation kinetics of the parent preservatives, the identification of the arising by-products, and the monitorization of their kinetic profiles was performed by GC-MS. The photochemical transformation of triclosan into 2,8-dichloro-dibenzo-p-dioxin (2,8-DCDD) and other dioxin-like photoproducts has been confirmed in this work. Furthermore, seven BHT photoproducts, and three benzophenones as PhBz by-products, have been also identified. These findings reveal the first evidences of cosmetic ingredients phototransformation into unwanted photoproducts on an artificial skin model.

Melatonin-based pickering emulsion for skin's photoprotection

CONTEXT

Based on its antioxidant activity, melatonin was recently found to have a protection effect against photocarcinogenesis.

OBJECTIVE

This work aimed to develop an innovative sunscreen formulation based on the Pickering emulsions concept, stabilized by physical UV filters, modified starch and natural oils associated to melatonin as a key strategy for prevention against UV-induced skin damage.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

For this purpose, melatonin was incorporated in Pickering emulsions that were characterized using physicochemical, in vitro and in vivo testing. Physicochemical studies included physical and chemical stability by a thorough pharmaceutical control. The possible protective effects of melatonin against UV-induced cell damage in HaCaT cell lines were investigated in vitro. The safety assessment and the in vivo biological properties of the final formulations, including Human Repeat Insult Patch Test and sunscreen water resistance tests were also evaluated.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

These studies demonstrated that melatonin sunscreen Pickering emulsion was beneficial and presented a powerful protection against UVB-induced damage in HaCat cells, including inhibition of apoptosis. The inclusion of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, green coffee oil and starch ensured a high SPF (50+) against UVA and UVB.

CONCLUSION

The combination of melatonin, multifunctional solid particles and green coffee oil, contributed to achieve a stable, effective and innovative sunscreen with a meaningful synergistic protection against oxidative stress.

A reevaluation of the photolytic properties of 2-hydroxybenzophenone-based UV sunscreens: are chemical sunscreens inoffensive?

The excited states of a set of popular sunscreen agents (2-hydroxybenzophenone, oxybenzone, and sulisobenzone) are studied by using femto- and nanosecond time-resolved spectroscopy. Upon excitation, the compounds undergo an ultrafast excited-state intramolecular proton transfer (ESIPT) reaction as the major energy-wasting process and the rate constant of this reaction is k=2×10(12) s(-1) . The ESIPT yields a keto conformer that undergoes a fast, picosecond internal conversion decay. However, a photodegradative pathway is a monophotonic HO bond breakage that subsequently leads to trace yields of phenoxyl radicals. Because potentially harmful phenoxyl radicals are formed upon irradiation of sunscreen agents, care should be taken about their reactivity towards biologically relevant compounds.

Aggregate consumer exposure to UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate via personal care products

Ultraviolet (UV) filters are substances designed to protect our skin from UV-induced damage and can be found in many categories of personal care products (PCPs). The potential endocrine-disrupting effects attributed to UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) are being debated. We evaluated the aggregate exposure of the Swiss-German population (N=1196; ages ≤1-97years) to EHMC via the use of PCPs; thus we provide the first comprehensive information about the current EHMC exposure sources and aggregate exposure levels. In our probabilistic modeling method performed at an individual level, PCP use data obtained by a postal questionnaire were linked to concentration data on EHMC gained from chemical analyses of PCPs used by the questionnaire respondents. The modeled median and 99.9th percentile of the internal aggregate exposure for the general population were 0.012 and 0.873mgday(-1)kg(-1) and 0.008 and 0.122mgday(-1)kg(-1) for the summer/autumn and winter/spring period, respectively. The major contributors to internal aggregate exposure were sunscreen products in summer/autumn (females: 64%; males: 85%; children aged ≤12years 93%). In winter/spring, lip care dominated for females (30%) and sunscreen for males (38%) and children aged ≤12years (50%). Overall, the internal aggregate exposure estimates for the studied population are shown to be below the Derived No Effect Level (DNEL) for EHMC i.e., the level of exposure above which humans should not be exposed; however, when an intense short-term exposure via sunscreen is accounted for during a sunbathing day, at the high-end percentiles (99.9th) the predicted aggregate exposure exceeds the DNEL for thyroid-disrupting effects such as for children aged ≤4years, who might be particularly susceptible to endocrine disrupting events. It is nevertheless critical to acknowledge that quantitative data on transdermal penetration of EHMC from PCPs are currently insufficient. Since long-term effects of endocrine disruptors are not known, future studies are warranted to provide accurate quantitative data on transdermal penetration of EHMC and to determine its metabolic fate in humans.

Assessing the current market of sunscreen: a cross-sectional study of sunscreen availability in three metropolitan counties in the United States

Sunscreen use is recommended for the prevention of sunburn and skin cancer. Little is known regarding sunscreen availability in high versus low income communities. We analyzed sunscreen availability in three large metropolitan counties to determine the relationship between availability and community demographics. We included sun care products in all pharmacies and supermarkets open as of July 2013 in representative high and low income zip codes in Cook County, Illinois, Miami-Dade County, Florida, and San Diego County, California. We recorded the percentage of tanning oil, sunscreens with a sun protection factor (SPF) < 15, SPF > 15, physical sunscreens, spray sunscreens, mean price per ounce (PPO), and mean SPF. Of the total products assessed, 11.0% were tanning oils, with physical sunscreens accounting for only 3.4% of the available sunscreens and 46.2% of sunscreens being spray-on. A comparison between higher and lower income zip codes demonstrated a significantly increased percentage of sunscreens with SPF < 15 in high income zip codes. Lower income zip codes had higher percentages of sunscreens with SPF > 15 and higher PPO, even when taking into account SPF. Further studies of sunscreen usage patterns in different populations must take into account sunscreen availability and price, as these significantly differ based on the community demographic.

Production of a Novel Mineral-based Sun Lotion for Protecting the Skin from Biohazards of Electromagnetic Radiation in the UV Region

BACKGROUND

Sun protection materials have been one of the major concerns in pharmaceutical in-dustry since almost one century ago. Various materials have been found to have such an effect but there are still many unknown substances that have not been discovered. Objective : To introduce a novel mineral-based sun lotion with considerable UV absorption properties compared to commercially available sunscreens.

METHOD

 UV absorption properties of transparent plas-tic sheets covered by a uniform cream layer of different mineral-based sun lotions and a commercially available sun lotion were tested.

RESULTS

Sun lotions containing specific proportion of bentonite and zeolite minerals were capable of absorbing the highest level of UV light com-pared to that of the commercially available sun lotion.

CONCLUSION

Mineral-based sun lotions can be considered as cost effective alternatives for current commercial sunscreens.