Micron-scale assessment of molecular lipid organization in human stratum corneum using microprobe X-ray diffraction

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

Carbon dioxide foam bubbles enhance skin penetration through the stratum corneum layer with mechanical mechanism

Topical skin formulations often include penetration enhancers that interact with the outer stratum corneum (SC) layer to chemically enhance diffusion. Alternatively, penetration can be mechanically enhanced with simple rubbing in the presence of solid particles sometimes included to exfoliate the top layers of the SC. Our goal was to evaluate micron-sized carbon dioxide bubbles included in a foamed moisturizing formulation as a mechanical penetration enhancement strategy. We show that moisturizing foam bubbles cause an increase in SC formulation penetration using both mechanical and spectroscopic characterization. Our results suggest viscous liquid film drainage between coalescing gaseous bubbles creates local regions of increased hydrodynamic pressure in the foam liquid layer adjacent to the SC surface that enhances treatment penetration. An SC molecular diffusion model is used to rationalize the observed behavior. The findings indicate marked increased levels of treatment concentration in the SC at 2 h and that persists to 18 h after exposure, far exceeding non-foamed treatments. The study suggests an alternate strategy for increasing formulation penetration with a non-chemical mechanism.

Altered structure indicating reduced barrier function of lesional compared to non-lesional psoriatic skin-A non-invasive in vivo study of the human stratum corneum with confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

Psoriasis, one of the most common skin diseases affecting roughly 2%-3% of the world population, is associated with a reduced skin barrier function (SBF) that might play an important role in its pathophysiology. The SBF is provided primarily by the stratum corneum (SC) of the skin. Previous studies have revealed a higher trans-epidermal water loss, lower hydration, abnormal concentration and composition of intercellular lipids, as well as alterations in secondary keratin structure in the psoriatic SC. We compared on molecular level lesional psoriatic skin (LPS) with non-lesional psoriatic skin (nLPS) from 19 patients non-invasively in vivo, using confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy. By analysing the corresponding Raman spectra, we determined SBF-defining parameters of the SC depth-dependently. Our results revealed a lower total lipid concentration, a shift of lamellar lipid organisation towards more gauche-conformers and an increase of the less dense hexagonal lateral packing of the intercellular lipids in LPS. Furthermore, we observed lower natural moisturising factor concentration, lower total water as well as a strong tendency towards less strongly bound and more weakly bound water molecules in LPS. Finally, we detected a less stable secondary keratin structure with increased β-sheets, in contrast to the tertiary structure, showing a higher degree of folded keratin in LPS. These findings clearly suggest structural differences indicating a reduced SBF in LPS, and are discussed in juxtaposition to preceding outcomes for psoriatic and healthy skin. Understanding the alterations of the psoriatic SC provides insights into the exact pathophysiology of psoriasis and paves the way for optimal future treatments.

Quantitative determination of concentration profiles of skin components and topically applied oils by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares using in vivo confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

The main components of the stratum corneum (SC), water, lipids, and proteins, are non-homogeneously distributed throughout the depth. The quantitative determination of their concentration profiles and penetration depth of topically applied substances are urgent topics of dermatological and cosmetic research. Confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy has distinct advantages when determining semi-quantitative concentrations of SC components and topically applied substances non-invasively and in vivo. In this work, we applied a tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (tMCR-ALS) method to analyze Raman spectra of the SC in the 2000-4000 cm-1 region for quantitatively determining the concentrations of water, lipids, proteins, and topically applied oils using substance-related spectral loadings which were allowed to change depth-dependently from the SC's surface toward its bottom. tMCR-ALS makes matching of depth-dependent signal attenuation, that is, the normalization on keratin, unnecessary and requires only a few additional experiments for calibration - Raman spectra of the pure materials and their densities.

Low-flux electron diffraction study on body site dependence of stratum corneum structures in human skin

For analysis of the structure of human skin stratum corneum (SC), we introduced low-flux electron diffraction (ED) and developed a new statistical analysis method for obtained ED intensity profiles. By use of this method we compared the differences in the intercellular lipid organization on the SC corneocytes collected at human forehead, cheek, and forearm by the grid-stripping method. As a result, we found a significant regional difference in the distribution of lipid hydrocarbon chain packing domains in the SC; the ring-type ED pattern with orthorhombic symmetry was more often observed in the forearm SC than in the forehead and cheek SCs. We also found that the dependence of the background electron diffraction intensity on the modulus of the scattering vector differed significantly among them. The present method for the analysis of a large number of ED patterns of noninvasively obtained SC samples could be a powerful tool to scrutinize the structural difference between the SCs under various experimental conditions.

In vitro characterization and clinical evaluation of skin hydration by two formulations mimicking the skin's natural components

BACKGROUND

We have developed innovative base formulations that were designed to mimic the skin with respect to its components and galenic structure. Components include water, proteins, lipids, sugars and minerals.

OBJECTIVES

We characterized formulations and their skin penetration using in vitro methods and evaluated their impact on skin hydration in a clinical trial.

METHODS

Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) imaging and X-ray diffraction were used to analyse formulations as well as formulation impact on the stratum corneum (SC) structure. Mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) was used to compare formulation ingredients with SC components and to detect their distribution in the skin. Clinical studies were performed to confirm effects on skin hydration and investigate potential adverse skin effects (irritation and sensitization).

RESULTS

SEM and X-ray diffraction of the formulations showed that lipids were organized in sheets similar to SC lipids. MSI demonstrated similarities between formulation components and skin constituents, as well as a good penetration into the skin. The formulations did not modify the lamellar organization of the SC lipids, but they increased the relative proportion of the crystallized lipids and some of the amorphous lipids. In in vivo studies, a high level of hydration was maintained over 24 h after application with an intense and 'very good hydration'. Both formulations were shown to be non-(photo)sensitizers with excellent tolerance. Sensorial evaluation indicated the formulations were not oily or sticky and maintained the skin's suppleness over time. Formulations had a 'nude skin' touch and created a natural protective film.

CONCLUSIONS

The two formulations were well-tolerated and increased skin hydration in clinical subjects, an effect that could contribute to the alleviation of sensitive skin. The formulations were shown to resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum, as well as penetrate the skin without disrupting the lipid lamella organization.

Current views on non-invasive in vivo determination of physiological parameters of the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microspectroscopy

Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is widely used in dermatology and cosmetology for analysis of the concentration of skin components (lipids, natural moisturizing factor molecules, water) and the penetration depth of cosmetic/medical formulations in the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo. In recent years, it was shown that confocal Raman microspectroscopy can also be used for non-invasive in vivo depth-dependent determination of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as lamellar and lateral organization of intercellular lipids, folding properties of keratin, water mobility and hydrogen bonding states. The results showed that the strongest skin barrier function, which is primarily manifested by the orthorhombic organization of intercellular lipids, is provided at ≈20-40% SC depth, which is related to the maximal bonding state of water with surrounding components in the SC. The secondary and tertiary structures of keratin determine water binding in the SC, which is depth-dependent. This paper shows the technical possibility and advantage of confocal Raman microspectroscopy in non-invasive investigation of the skin and summarizes recent results on in vivo investigation of the human SC.

Stratum Corneum Function: A Structural Study with Dynamic Synchrotron X-ray Diffraction Experiments

Studies on the effectiveness of substances such as drugs and cosmetics that act on the skin require structural evidence at the molecular level in the stratum corneum to clarify their interaction with intercellular lipid and soft keratin. For this purpose, when applying the substances to the stratum corneum X-ray diffraction experiment is one of the powerful tools. To detect minute structural changes in a stratum corneum sample, using a "solution cell", dynamic synchrotron X-ray diffraction measurements were performed when applying aqueous solution of the substances to the stratum corneum: (1) It was found that a surfactant, sodium dodecyl sulfate, significantly disrupted the long-period lamellar structure. (2) To study the effects of water, structural modifications of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin in corneocytes were measured as a function of time. At the initial water content of 15 wt%, the spacings of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin increased toward those at the water content of 25 wt%, that is a key water content in the stratum corneum. (3) Nanoparticles composed of assembly of amphiphilic molecules are one of the leading pharmaceutical formulations. When the nanoparticles were applied, a new assembly of amphiphilic molecules originated from the nanoparticle appeared. This phenomenon suggests that the formation of the new assembly at the surface of skin is concerned with the release of the drug from the nanoparticles. (4) When ethanol was applied to the stratum corneum, only the liquid state in the intercellular lipid matrix was dissolved. After the removal of ethanol from this stratum corneum, the ordered hydrocarbon-chain packing structures appeared. From this fact we would propose that the liquid state region is the main pathway for hydrophobic drugs with a small molecular weight in connection with the so-called 500 Da rule. Here, not only the technique but also the background to these studies and the characteristic results obtained from these studies are explained.

Probing Skin Barrier Recovery on Molecular Level Following Acute Wounds: An In Vivo/Ex Vivo Study on Pigs

Proper skin barrier function is paramount for our survival, and, suffering injury, there is an acute need to restore the lost barrier and prevent development of a chronic wound. We hypothesize that rapid wound closure is more important than immediate perfection of the barrier, whereas specific treatment may facilitate perfection. The aim of the current project was therefore to evaluate the quality of restored tissue down to the molecular level. We used Göttingen minipigs with a multi-technique approach correlating wound healing progression in vivo over three weeks, monitored by classical methods (e.g., histology, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), pH) and subsequent physicochemical characterization of barrier recovery (i.e., small and wide-angle X-ray diffraction (SWAXD), polarization transfer solid-state NMR (PTssNMR), dynamic vapor sorption (DVS), Fourier transform infrared (FTIR)), providing a unique insight into molecular aspects of healing. We conclude that although acute wounds sealed within two weeks as expected, molecular investigation of stratum corneum (SC) revealed a poorly developed keratin organization and deviations in lipid lamellae formation. A higher lipid fluidity was also observed in regenerated tissue. This may have been due to incomplete lipid conversion during barrier recovery as glycosphingolipids, normally not present in SC, were indicated by infrared FTIR spectroscopy. Evidently, a molecular approach to skin barrier recovery could be a valuable tool in future development of products targeting wound healing.

Retaining Skin Barrier Function Properties of the Stratum Corneum with Components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor-A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Double-Blind In Vivo Study

The influence of a topically applied formulation containing components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) on barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study on 12 volunteers for 14 days. This method allowed for the elucidation of subtle differences between the verum and the placebo even though the components of the verum naturally occur in the SC. This differentiation is not possible non-invasively by conventional methods. In this study, we found that the applied verum and placebo formulations disrupted the equilibrium of water, NMF and lipids in the SC. The adverse effects of the formulation could be mitigated by incorporating it into a simplified supplementation of NMF molecules. As a long-term effect, the amount of strongly bound water increases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) and the amount of weakly bound water decreases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) for the verum. This supplement was also unexpectedly able to prevent intercellular lipids (ICL) disorganization in selected depths. In the long term, the verum treatment limited the lateral disorganization of the ICL to the upper 20% SC depth. Further research is required to elucidate the interplay of these factors in the SC, to better understand their contribution to the equilibrium and barrier function of the skin. This understanding of the interaction of these naturally occurring components could help in the future to develop and optimize topical treatments for diseases like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis where the skin barrier is disrupted.

Development of novel polyglycerol fatty acid ester-based nanoparticles for the dermal delivery of tocopherol acetate

The aim of this study was to develop and evaluate novel polyglycerol fatty acid ester (PGFE)-based nanoparticles (NPs) for the dermal delivery of tocopherol acetate (TA). TA-loaded PGFE-based NPs (PGFE-NPs) were prepared by mixing PGFE, soya phosphatidylcholine, dimyristoylphosphatidylglycerol, and TA with film using the film rehydration and extrusion method. The prepared formulations were analyzed by dynamic light scattering, small-angle X-ray diffraction and polarization microscopy. An in vitro skin accumulation test was performed with TA under occlusive and non-occlusive applications, using Yucatan micropig skin. The size range of the TA-loaded liposome and PGFE-NPs was 107-128 nm, and they were encapsulated in 1.6-2.3 mg/mL TA. All PGFE-NP formulations were negatively charged and stable for 2 weeks. Under occlusive applications, all formulations induced small amounts of TA accumulation in the epidermis but not in the dermis. However, under non-occlusive applications, some of PGFE-NP formulations enhanced TA accumulation in the epidermis. Furthermore, only the polyglycerol 4-laurate (PG4L)-based formulation induced dermal TA accumulation with the change in the formulation from a vesicular to bilayer stacked structure following water evaporation under non-occlusive applications. These results indicated that the novel TA-loaded PG4L formulation enabled the dermal delivery of TA in non-occlusive applications.

Phase Separation in Lipid Lamellae Result from Ceramide Conformations and Lateral Packing Structure

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum protect the living body from invasion by allergens and pathogens, and also suppresses water evaporation within the body. It is important to understand how differences in the microstructure of intercellular lipids arise. This microstructure is affected by lipid composition. Studies using intercellular lipid models have reported the formation of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities. However, the details of the packing structure characteristics of the two phases observed in these intercellular lipid models are unclear. Our previous report revealed that different short periodicity phases coexist in the N-(α-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-dihydrosphingosine (CER[ADS]), cholesterol (CHOL), and palmitic acid (PA) complex model. In this study, the characteristics of the packing structure of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities, which were observed in the intercellular lipid model (CER[ADS]/CHOL/PA) that we used previously, were adjusted for models with different lipid compositions. The characteristics of the packed and lamellar structures have been determined by temperature-scanning small-angle X-ray scattering and wide-angle X-ray diffraction measurements simultaneously. These differences in lamellar structure were thought to be caused by differences in ceramides (CER) conformation between the hairpin and the V-shape type. The lamellar structure of the V-shaped CER conformation has a low orthorhombic ratio. The above results suggest that an increase in the ratio of CER with the V-shaped structure causes the lamellar structure to have low orthorhombic ratio, thereby contributing to a decrease in the bilayer's barrier function.

The application of label-free imaging technologies in transdermal research for deeper mechanism revealing

The penetration behavior of topical substances in the skin not only relates to the transdermal delivery efficiency but also involves the safety and therapeutic effect of topical products, such as sunscreen and hair growth products. Researchers have tried to illustrate the transdermal process with diversified theories and technologies. Directly observing the distribution of topical substances on skin by characteristic imaging is the most convincing approach. Unfortunately, fluorescence labeling imaging, which is commonly used in biochemical research, is limited for transdermal research for most topical substances with a molecular mass less than 500 Da. Label-free imaging technologies possess the advantages of not requiring any macromolecular dyes, no tissue destruction and an extensive substance detection capability, which has enabled rapid development of such technologies in recent years and their introduction to biological tissue analysis, such as skin samples. Through the specific identification of topical substances and endogenous tissue components, label-free imaging technologies can provide abundant tissue distribution information, enrich theoretical and practical guidance for transdermal drug delivery systems. In this review, we expound the mechanisms and applications of the most popular label-free imaging technologies in transdermal research at present, compare their advantages and disadvantages, and forecast development prospects.

Microbeam X-ray diffraction study of lipid structure in stratum corneum of human skin

Human skin, not previously frozen, was studied by small-angle X-ray diffraction. The samples were folded so that a 6μm X-ray beam passed through the top layer of skin, stratum corneum. Diffraction patterns recorded with this method consisted of peaks at about q = 0.5, 1.0 and 1.4 nm-1 in the direction perpendicular to the skin surface more clearly than in previous studies. These peaks are interpreted to arise from lipids between corneocytes. A simple unit of a linear electron density profile with three minima was used to account for the observed intensity profiles. Combinations of calculated diffraction from models with one, two and three units accounted for the major part of the observed diffraction pattern, showing the diversity in the structure of the intercellular lipids.

Quantification of the amount of mobile components in intact stratum corneum with natural-abundance 13C solid-state NMR

The outermost layer of the skin is the stratum corneum (SC), which is mainly comprised of solid proteins and lipids. Minor amounts of mobile proteins and lipids are crucial for the macroscopic properties of the SC, including softness, elasticity and barrier function. Still this minor number of mobile components are not well characterized in terms of structure or amount. Conventional quantitative direct polarization (Q-DP) 13C solid-state NMR gives signal amplitudes proportional to concentrations, but fails to quantify the SC mobile components because of spectral overlap with the overwhelming signals from the solids. Spectral editing with the INEPT scheme suppresses the signals from solids, but also modulates the amplitudes of the mobile components depending on their values of the transverse relaxation times T2, scalar couplings JCH, and number of covalently bound hydrogens nH. This study describes a quantitative INEPT (Q-INEPT) method relying on systematic variation of the INEPT timing variables to estimate T2, JCH, nH, and amplitude for each of the resolved resonances from the mobile components. Q-INEPT is validated with a series of model systems containing molecules with different hydrophobicity and dynamics. For selected systems where Q-DP is applicable, the results of Q-INEPT and Q-DP are similar with respect to the linearity and uncertainty of the obtained molar ratios. Utilizing a reference compound with known concentration, we quantify the concentrations of mobile lipids and proteins within the mainly solid SC. By melting all lipids at high temperature, we obtain the total lipid concentration. These Q-INEPT results are the first steps towards a quantitative understanding of the relations between mobile component concentrations and SC macroscopic properties.

The non-homogenous distribution and aggregation of carotenoids in the stratum corneum correlates with the organization of intercellular lipids in vivo

The human stratum corneum (SC) contains an abundant amount of carotenoid antioxidants, quenching free radicals and thereby protecting the skin. For the precise measurements of the depth-dependent carotenoid concentration, confocal Raman microscopy is a suitable method. The quantitative concentration can be determined by the carotenoid-related peak intensity of a Gaussian function approached at ≈1524 cm^-1 using non-linear regression. Results show that the carotenoid concentration is higher at the superficial layers of the SC then decreases to a minimum at 20% SC depth and increases again towards the bottom of the SC. In the present work, two carotenoid penetration pathways into the SC are postulated. The first pathway is from the stratum granulosum to the bottom of the SC, while in the second pathway, the carotenoids are delivered to the skin surface by sweat and/or sebum secretion and penetrate from outside. The carotenoids are aggregated at the superficial layers, which are shown by high correlation between the aggregation states of carotenoids and the lateral organization of lipids. At the 30%-40% SC depths, the ordered and dense lipid molecules intensify the lipid-carotenoid interactions and weaken the carotenoid-carotenoid interaction and thus exhibit the disaggregation of carotenoids. At 90%-100% SC depths, the carotenoid-lipid interaction is weakened and the carotenoids have a tendency to be aggregated. Thus, the molecular structural correlation of carotenoid and SC lipid might be reserved in the intercellular space of the SC and also serves as the skeleton of the intercellular lipids.

Non-invasive depth profiling of the stratum corneum in vivo using confocal Raman microscopy considering the non-homogeneous distribution of keratin

Confocal Raman microscopy has a number of advantages in investigating the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo and ex vivo. The penetration profiles of xenobiotics in the SC, as well as depth profiles of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as the concentration of water depending on the strength of hydrogen bonds, total water concentration, the hydrogen bonding state of water molecules, concentration of intercellular lipids, the lamellar and lateral packing order of intercellular lipids, the concentration of natural moisturizing factor molecules, carotenoids, and the secondary and tertiary structure properties of keratin are well investigated. To consider the depth-dependent Raman signal attenuation, in most cases a normalization procedure is needed, which uses the main SC's protein keratin-related Raman peaks, based on the assumption that keratin is homogeneously distributed in the SC. We found that this assumption is not accurate for the bottom part of the SC, where the water concentration is considerably increased, thus, reducing the presence of keratin. Our results demonstrate that the bottom part of the SC depth profile should be multiplied by 0.94 in average in order to match this non-homogeneity, which result in a decrease of the uncorrected values in these depths. The correctly normalized depth profiles of the concentration of lipids, water, natural moisturizing factor and carotenoids are presented in this work. The obtained results should be taken into consideration in future skin research using confocal Raman microscopy.

Confocal Raman microscopy combined with optical clearing for identification of inks in multicolored tattooed skin in vivo

Raman measurements applied on freshly tattooed porcine skin ex vivo showed a possibility of obtaining the ink pigment related information in the skin. Based on these results, confocal Raman microscopy was used to identify the tattoo ink pigments of different colors in multicolored tattooed human skin in vivo. The Raman signatures of tattoo ink pigments were unique. Therefore, it could be shown that the applied method is successful for the identification of the tattoo ink pigments in human skin in vivo down to depths of approx. 50 μm, which is sufficient to screen the entire epidermis and the top of the papillary dermis area on the forearm and leg skin sites. Additional application of the optical clearing technique in vivo by topical application of glycerol, combined with tape stripping removal of the uppermost stratum corneum layers and defatting allows the extension of depths of investigation in tattooed skin down to approx. 400 μm, i.e. to cover the entire papillary dermis and a large part of the reticular dermis. Thus, the tattoo ink pigments were identified in vivo and depth-dependently in human tattooed skin confirming their presence in the papillary and reticular dermis. The proposed non-invasive in vivo Raman screening combined with optical clearing for identifying the tattoo pigments in the dermis can be an important task preceding a laser-based tattoo removal procedure and for determining the optimal laser parameters.

Evaluation of the molecular lipid organization in millimeter-sized stratum corneum by synchrotron X-ray diffraction

BACKGROUND

The aim of this study was to investigate whether the lamellar and lateral structure of intercellular lipid of stratum corneum (SC) can be evaluated from millimeter-sized SC (MSC) by X-ray diffraction.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A 12 mm × 12 mm SC sheet from hairless mouse was divided into 16 pieces measuring 3 mm × 3 mm square. From another sheet, 4 pieces of ultramillimeter-sized SC (USC:1.5 mm × 1.5 mm square) were prepared. Small and wide-angle X-ray diffraction (SAXD and WAXD) measurements were performed on each piece. For MSC and USC, changes in the lamellar and lateral structure after the application of d-limonene were measured.

RESULTS

The intensity of SAXD peaks due to the lamellar phase of long periodicity phase (LPP) and WAXD peaks due to the lateral hydrocarbon chain-packing structures varied in MSC and USC pieces, although over the 12 mm × 12 mm SC sheet. These results indicated that the intercellular lipid components and their proportion appeared nearly uniform. Application of d-limonene on MSC and USC piece with strong peaks in SAXD and the WAXD resulted in the disappearance of peaks due to the lamellar phase of LPP and decrease in peak intensity for the lateral hydrocarbon chain-packing structures. These changes are consistent with normal-sized sample results.

CONCLUSION

We found that the selection of a sample piece with strong diffraction peaks due to the lamellar and lateral structure enabled evaluation of the SC structure in small-sized samples by X-ray diffraction.

Natural Oils for Skin-Barrier Repair: Ancient Compounds Now Backed by Modern Science

Natural plant oils are commonly used as topical therapy worldwide. They are usually easily accessible and are relatively inexpensive options for skin care. Many natural oils possess specific compounds with antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-itch properties, making them attractive alternative and complementary treatments for xerotic and inflammatory dermatoses associated with skin-barrier disruption. Unique characteristics of various oils are important when considering their use for topical skin care. Differing ratios of essential fatty acids are major determinants of the barrier repair benefits of natural oils. Oils with a higher linoleic acid to oleic acid ratio have better barrier repair potential, whereas oils with higher amounts of irritating oleic acid may be detrimental to skin-barrier function. Various extraction methods for oils exist, including cold pressing to make unrefined oils, heat and chemical distillation to make essential oils, and the addition of various chemicals to simulate a specific scent to make fragranced oils. The method of oil processing and refinement is an important component of selecting oil for skin care, and cold pressing is the preferred method of oil extraction as the heat- and chemical-free process preserves beneficial lipids and limits irritating byproducts. This review summarizes evidence on utility of natural plant-based oils in dermatology, particularly in repairing the natural skin-barrier function, with the focus on natural oils, including Olea europaea (olive oil), Helianthus annus (sunflower seed oil), Cocos nucifera (coconut oil), Simmondsia chinesis (jojoba oil), Avena sativa (oat oil), and Argania spinosa (argan oil).

ATR-IR study of skin components: Lipids, proteins and water. Part I: Temperature effect

In this work we report the studies of the effect of temperature on skin components, such as lipids, proteins and water. Modifications of lipids structure induced by increasing temperature (from 20 to 90°C) have been studied using ATR-IR (Attenuated Total Reflectance Infrared) spectroscopy, which is a powerful tool for characterization of the molecular structure and properties of tissues, such as skin. Due to the small depth of penetration (0.6-5.6μm), ATR-IR spectroscopy probes only the outermost layer of the skin, i.e. the stratum corneum (SC). The assignment of main spectral features of skin components allows for the determination of phase transitions from the temperature dependencies of band intensities [e.g. ν_as(CH₂) and ν_s(CH₂)]. The phase transitions were determined by using two methods: the first one was based on the first derivative of the Boltzmann function and the second one employed tangent lines of sigmoidal, aforementioned dependencies. The phase transitions in lipids were correlated with modifications of the structure of water and proteins.

Keratin-water-NMF interaction as a three layer model in the human stratum corneum using in vivo confocal Raman microscopy

The secondary and tertiary structure of keratin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are of great importance regarding the water regulating functions in the stratum corneum (SC). In this in vivo study, the depth-dependent keratin conformation and its relationship to the hydrogen bonding states of water and its content in the SC, are investigated using confocal Raman microscopy. Based on the obtained depth-profiles for the β-sheet/α-helix ratio, the stability of disulphide bonds, the amount of cysteine forming disulphide bonds, the buried/exposed tyrosine and the folding/unfolding states of keratin, a "three layer model" of the SC, regarding the keratin-water-NMF interaction is proposed. At the uppermost layers (30-0% SC depth), the keratin filaments are highly folded, entailing limited water binding sites, and NMF is mostly responsible for binding water. At the intermediate layers (70-30% SC depth), the keratin filaments are unfolded, have the most water binding sites and are prone to swelling. At the bottom layers (100-80% SC depth), the water binding sites are already occupied with water and cannot swell substantially. The hydrogen bonding states of water molecules can only be explained by considering both, the molecular structure of keratin and the contribution of NMF as a holistic system.

Skin hydration: interplay between molecular dynamics, structure and water uptake in the stratum corneum

Hydration is a key aspect of the skin that influences its physical and mechanical properties. Here, we investigate the interplay between molecular and macroscopic properties of the outer skin layer - the stratum corneum (SC) and how this varies with hydration. It is shown that hydration leads to changes in the molecular arrangement of the peptides in the keratin filaments as well as dynamics of C-H bond reorientation of amino acids in the protruding terminals of keratin protein within the SC. The changes in molecular structure and dynamics occur at a threshold hydration corresponding to ca. 85% relative humidity (RH). The abrupt changes in SC molecular properties coincide with changes in SC macroscopic swelling properties as well as mechanical properties in the SC. The flexible terminals at the solid keratin filaments can be compared to flexible polymer brushes in colloidal systems, creating long-range repulsion and extensive swelling in water. We further show that the addition of urea to the SC at reduced RH leads to similar molecular and macroscopic responses as the increase in RH for SC without urea. The findings provide new molecular insights to deepen the understanding of how intermediate filament organization responds to changes in the surrounding environment.

A Possible Percutaneous Penetration Pathway That Should Be Considered

The intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum form structures composed of ordered phases with orthorhombic and hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing structures and, in addition, a structure composed of a disordered fluid phase. Although the fluid phase plays an important role in percutaneous penetration, little attention has been paid to it in the literature thus far. Recently, a method to estimate the proportion of the fluid phase within the lipids of the stratum corneum was proposed and it was shown to reach about 80%. However, since that study assumed uniform extraction of the intercellular lipids from the stratum corneum, the analysis might give rise to an overestimation of the proportion of the lipids in the fluid phase. We developed a way to investigate the proportion of the lipids in the fluid phase by treating with ethanol, into which the lipids in the fluid phase might be dominantly dissolved. From the experiment we pointed out the possibility that the proportion of the lipids in the fluid phase reached more than 50% of the whole intercellular lipids. Therefore, the fluid-phase region in the intercellular lipid matrix should be taken into account when considering the percutaneous penetration mechanism.

In vivo confocal Raman microscopic determination of depth profiles of the stratum corneum lipid organization influenced by application of various oils

BACKGROUND

The intercellular lipids (ICL) of stratum corneum (SC) play an important role in maintaining the skin barrier function. The lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in SC is not homogenous, but rather depth-dependent.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to analyze the influence of the topically applied mineral-derived (paraffin and petrolatum) and plant-derived (almond oil and jojoba oil) oils on the depth-dependent ICL profile ordering of the SC in vivo.

METHOD

Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM), a unique tool to analyze the depth profile of the ICL structure non-invasively, is employed to investigate the interaction between oils and human SC in vivo.

RESULTS

The results show that the response of SC to oils' permeation varies in the depths. All oils remain in the upper layers of the SC (0-20% of SC thickness) and show predominated differences of ICL ordering from intact skin. In these depths, skin treated with plant-derived oils shows more disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL than intact skin (p<0.05). In the intermediate layers of SC (30-50% of SC thickness), the oils do not influence the lateral packing order of SC ICL (p>0.1), except plant-derived oils at the depth 30% of SC thickness. In the deeper layers of the SC (60-100% of SC thickness), no difference between ICL lateral packing order of the oil-treated and intact skin can be observed, except that at the depths of 70-90% of the SC thickness, where slight changes with more disorder states are measured for plant-derived oil treated skin (p<0.1), which could be explained by the penetration of free fatty acid fractions in the deep-located SC areas.

CONCLUSION

Both oil types remain in the superficial layers of the SC (0-20% of the SC thickness). Skin treated with mineral- and plant-derived oils shows significantly higher disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in these layers of the SC compared to intact skin. Plant-derived oils significantly changed the ICL ordering in the depths of 30% and 70-90% of the SC thickness, which is likely due to the penetration of free fatty acids in the deeper layers of the SC.