Thematic review series: skin lipids. The role of epidermal lipids in cutaneous permeability barrier homeostasis

Ionic composition of Shotokuseki extract alters cell differentiation and lipid metabolism in three-dimensional cultured human epidermis

Corneocytes and intercellular lipids form the stratum corneum. The content and composition of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum significantly affect skin barrier function. The purpose of this study was to demonstrate the effect of Shotokuseki extract (SE) on intercellular lipid production and metabolism in human three-dimensional cultured human epidermis. SE or ion mixtures containing five common ions were applied to three-dimensional cultured human epidermis for 2-8 days for each assay. The mRNA expression levels of epidermal differentiation markers and lipid metabolism genes were quantified by real-time PCR. After extraction of lipids from the epidermis, ceramide, sphingosine, free fatty acids, and cholesterol were quantified by LC-MS/MS, GC-MS, or HPLC. The results showed that the application of SE increased the gene expression levels of epidermal differentiation markers keratin10 and transglutaminase. Elongation of very long-chain fatty acids protein 3, serine palmitoyl transferase, ceramide synthase 3, and acid ceramidase mRNA expression levels increased and fatty acid synthase mRNA expression decreased. The content of each lipid, [EOS] ceramide decreased and total sphingosine content increased on day 4. On day 8 of application, ceramide [NDS], [NP], and [EODS] increased and total free fatty acid content decreased. These results show that SE alters the lipid composition of the epidermis, increasing ceramides and decreasing free fatty acids in the epidermis. The composition of the ions in the SE may be responsible for the changes in lipid composition. These behaviors were different from those observed when the ion mixture was applied.

Graphical abstract

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s10616-024-00616-3.

Transcriptional responses consistent with perturbation in dermo-epidermal homeostasis in septic sole ulceration

The aim of this study was to evaluate transcriptional changes in sole epidermis and dermis of bovine claws with septic sole ulceration of the lateral claw. Assessment included changes in transcripts orchestrating epidermal homeostatic processes including epidermal proliferation, differentiation, inflammation, and cell signaling. Sole epidermis and dermis was removed from region 4 of lesion-bearing lateral and lesion-free medial claws of pelvic limbs in multiparous, lactating Holstein cows. Control sole epidermis and dermis was obtained from region 4 of lateral claws of normal pelvic limbs. Transcript abundances were evaluated by real-time QPCR and relative expression analyzed by ANOVA. Relative to normal lateral claws, sole epidermis and dermis in ulcer-bearing claws exhibited downregulation of genes associated with growth factors, growth factor receptors, activator protein 1 (AP-1) and proto-oncogene (CMYC) transcription components, cell cycle elements, lateral cell-to-cell signaling elements and structures of early and late keratinocyte differentiation. These changes were accompanied by upregulation of pro-inflammatory transcripts interleukin 1 α (IL1A), interleukin1 β (IL1B), interleukin 1 receptor 1 (IL1R1), inducible nitric oxide synthase (NOS2), the inflammasome components NOD like receptor protein 3 (NLRP3), pyrin and caspase recruitment domain (PYCARD), and caspase-1 interleukin converting enzyme (CASPASE), the matrix metalloproteinases (MMP2 and MMP9), and anti-inflammatory genes interleukin 1 receptor antagonist (IL1RN) and interleukin1 receptor 2 (IL1R2). Transcript abundance varied across epidermis and dermis from the ulcer center, margin and epidermis and dermis adjacent to the lesion. Sole epidermis and dermis of lesion-free medial claws exhibited changes paralleling those in the adjacent lateral claws in an environment lacking inflammatory transcripts and downregulated IL1A, interleukin 18 (IL18), tumor necrosis factor α (TNFA) and NOS2. These data imply perturbations in signal pathways driving epidermal proliferation and differentiation are associated with, but not inevitably linked to epidermis and dermis inflammation. Further work is warranted to better define the role of crushing tissue injury, sepsis, metalloproteinase activity, and inflammation in sole ulceration.

Beyond Traditional Sunscreens: A Review of Liposomal-Based Systems for Photoprotection

Sunscreen products are essential for shielding the skin from ultraviolet (UV) radiation, a leading cause of skin cancer. While existing products serve this purpose, there is a growing need to enhance their efficacy while minimizing potential systemic absorption of UV filters and associated toxicological risks. Liposomal-based formulations have emerged as a promising approach to address these challenges and develop advanced photoprotective products. These vesicular systems offer versatility in carrying both hydrophilic and lipophilic UV filters, enabling the creation of broad-spectrum sunscreens. Moreover, their composition based on phospholipids, resembling that of the stratum corneum, facilitates adherence to the skin's surface layers, thereby improving photoprotective efficacy. The research discussed in this review underscores the significant advantages of liposomes in photoprotection, including their ability to limit the systemic absorption of UV filters, enhance formulation stability, and augment photoprotective effects. However, despite these benefits, there remains a notable gap between the potential of liposomal systems and their utilization in sunscreen development. Consequently, this review emphasizes the importance of leveraging liposomes and related vesicular systems as innovative tools for crafting novel and more efficient photoprotective formulations.

Revisiting the Effect of Aging on the Transport of Molecules through the Skin

Both intrinsic and extrinsic aging lead to a series of morphological changes in the skin including the flattening of the dermal-epidermal junction, increased stratum corneum dryness, reduction in sebaceous gland activity and enzyme activity as well as atrophy of blood vessels. In this study, the impact of these changes on the transport of molecules through the skin was revised. The increase in the number of transdermal formulations on the market in recent decades and life expectancy represent the main reasons for an in-depth discussion of this topic. Furthermore, elderly subjects have often been excluded from clinical trials due to polypharmacy, raising concerns in terms of efficacy and safety. In this way, ex vivo and in vivo studies comparing the transport of molecules through the mature and young skin were analyzed in detail. The reduced water content in mature skin had a significant impact on the transport rate of hydrophilic molecules. The lower enzymatic activity in aged skin, in turn, would explain changes in the activation of prodrugs. Interestingly, greater deposition of nanoparticles was also found in mature skin. In vivo models should be prioritized in future experimental studies as they allow to evaluate both absorption and metabolism simultaneously, providing more realistic information.

Effect of Skin Barrier on Atopic Dermatitis

The skin acts as the body's primary physical and immune barrier, maintaining the skin microbiome and providing a physical, chemical, and immune barrier. A disrupted skin barrier plays a critical role in the onset and advancement of inflammatory skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis (AD) and contact dermatitis. This narrative review outlines the relationship between AD and skin barrier function in preparation for the search for possible markers for the treatment of AD.

Tallow, Rendered Animal Fat, and Its Biocompatibility With Skin: A Scoping Review

There is a surge in the skincare industry marketing the use of natural ingredients as efficacious agents. Although this has been popular in the Eastern hemisphere for a while, Western countries are starting to put more emphasis on naturally derived products. This paper chose to analyze the current research available on tallow, which is a solid fat derived from animals. Tallow has long been used as a neutral cooking fat, ingredient in soaps, biofuel product, and now ingredient in skincare products. The purpose of this scoping review was to look at the current research pertaining to the therapeutic benefits of tallow on the skin. Using the PRISMA Extension for Scoping Reviews (PRISMA-ScR) guidelines, a scoping review was conducted using two databases: EMBASE and PubMed as sources of evidence. The searches for studies were conducted using the following key terms: (tallow) AND (skin or dermatology or dermatitis or emulsion or cosmetics or eczema). Papers were excluded if they were not in English, if they did not mention the effects of tallow on the skin, and if they did not use tallow rendered from an animal. Date ranges and geographical locations for articles were not part of our inclusion or exclusion criteria. We focused on the following five research questions: Does the composition of tallow make it better suitable for use on skin? What is the benefit of using tallow on skin? Does tallow have therapeutic properties for skin conditions? What side effects does tallow have on the skin? Is tallow reef-safe? While there is much evidence supporting the use of tallow as an ingredient in animal feed, cooking, soaps, and biofuels, there are significant research gaps in how it can be used on human skin. Our search on PubMed and EMBASE resulted in a total of 147 studies being screened with 19 fitting our specific criteria. Of the 19 studies, there were comparative studies, basic science studies, and animal studies. After reviewing the studies to answer the objectives in this paper, we were able to find information that supported the first three objectives; however, more research is still needed. Specifically, more research is needed that is geared towards tallow as a cosmetic product in humans. The fourth objective, which was to answer the side effects of topical tallow, had the most discrepancies between the sources. The fifth objective also found supporting information; however, only two sources were found. Overall, there needs to be more research with controlled variables on the side effects of topical tallow. Different research designs that could be explored include case studies, randomized controlled trials, cross-sectional studies, and qualitative studies.

TRPV1-positive sensory nerves and neuropeptides are involved in epidermal barrier repair after tape stripping in mice

BACKGROUND

The integumentary system of the skin serves as an exceptional protective barrier, with the stratum corneum situated at the forefront. This outermost layer is composed of keratinocytes that biosynthesize filaggrin (encoded by the gene Flg), a pivotal constituent in maintaining skin health. Nevertheless, the precise role of sensory nerves in restoration of the skin barrier after tape stripping-induced epidermal disruption, in contrast to the wound-healing process, remains a tantalizing enigma.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to elucidate the cryptic role of sensory nerves in repair of the epidermal barrier following tape stripping-induced disruption.

METHODS

Through the implementation of resiniferatoxin (RTX)-treated denervation mouse model, we investigated the kinetics of barrier repair after tape stripping and performed immunophenotyping and gene expression analysis in the skin or dorsal root ganglia (DRG) to identify potential neuropeptides. Furthermore, we assessed the functional impact of candidates on the recovery of murine keratinocytes and RTX-treated mice.

RESULTS

Ablation of TRPV1-positive sensory nerve attenuated skin barrier recovery and sustained subcutaneous inflammation, coupled with elevated IL-6 level in ear homogenates after tape stripping. Expression of the keratinocyte differentiation marker Flg in the ear skin of RTX-treated mice was decreased compared with that in control mice. Through neuropeptide screening, we found that the downregulation of Flg by IL-6 was counteracted by somatostatin or octreotide (a chemically stable somatostatin analog). Furthermore, RTX-treated mice given octreotide exhibited a partial improvement in barrier recovery after tape stripping.

CONCLUSION

Sensory neurons expressing TRPV1 play an indispensable role in restoring barrier function following epidermal injury. Our findings suggest the potential involvement of somatostatin in restoring epidermal repair after skin injury.

Facile Fabrication of Sandalwood Oil-Based Nanoemulsion to Intensify the Fatty Acid Composition in Burned and Rough Skin

The restoration process of burned and rough skin takes a long time and remains a critical challenge. It can be repaired through a combination of proper care, hydration, and topical therapies. In this study, a novel nanoemulsion was synthesized through the high-energy ultrasonication method. A total of five nanoemulsions (NE1-5) were prepared with varying concentrations of sandalwood oil, a nonionic surfactant (polysorbate 80), and water. Among them, NE3 had a number of appropriate physicochemical characteristics, such as physiological pH (5.58 ± 0.09), refractive index (∼1.34), electrical conductivity (115 ± 0.23 mS cm-1), and transmittance (∼96.5%), which were suitable for skin care applications. The NE3 had a strong surface potential of -18.5 ± 0.15 mV and a hydrodynamic size of 61.99 ± 0.22 nm with a polydispersity index of 0.204. The structural integrity and a distinct droplet size range between 50 and 100 nm were confirmed by transmission electron microscopic analysis. The skin regeneration and restoration abilities of synthesized nanoemulsions were examined by conducting an in vivo study on Sprague-Dawley rats. Exposure to NE3 significantly increased the healing process in burned skin as compared to untreated control and nonemulsified sandalwood oil. In another set of experiments, the NE3-treated rough skin became softer, smoother, and less scaly than all other treatments. Enhanced fatty acids, i.e., palmitic acid, stearic acid, and cholesterol, were recorded in NE3-supplemented burned and rough skin compared to the untreated control. The NE3 had outstanding compatibility with key components of skincare products without any stability issues. Its biocompatibility with the cellular system was established by the negligible generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and a lack of genotoxicity. Considering these results, NE3 can be used in cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums, allowing industries to achieve improved product formulations and provide better healthcare benefits to humanity.

The heterogeneity and complexity of skin surface lipids in human skin health and disease

The outermost epidermal layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is not simply a barrier that safeguards skin integrity from external insults and invaders, it is also a delicately integrated interface composed of firm, essentially dead corneocytes and a distinctive lipid matrix. Together, the stratum corneum lipid matrix and sebum lipids derived from sebaceous glands give rise to a remarkably complex but quite unique blend of skin surface lipids that demonstrates tremendous heterogeneity and provides the skin with its indispensable protective coating. The stratum corneum lipid matrix is composed primarily of three major lipid classes: ceramides, non-esterified fatty acids and cholesterol, whereas sebum is a waxy mixture predominantly composed of acylglycerols, wax esters, non-esterified fatty acids, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol esters. The balance of these skin surface lipids in terms of their relative abundance, composition, molecular organisation and dynamics, and their intricate interactions play a crucial role in the maintenance of healthy skin. For that reason, even minuscule alterations in skin surface lipid properties or overall lipid profile have been implicated in the aetiology of many common skin diseases including atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, xerosis, ichthyosis and acne. Novel lipid-based interventions aimed at correcting the skin surface lipid abnormalities have the potential to repair skin barrier integrity and the symptoms associated with such skin diseases, even though the exact mechanisms of lipid restoration remain elusive.

Global Analysis of 2-Hydroxy Fatty Acids by Gas Chromatography-Tandem Mass Spectrometry Reveals Species-Specific Enrichment in Echinoderms

Abnormal levels of 2-hydroxy fatty acids (2-OH FAs) are characterized in multiple diseases, and their quantification in foodstuffs is critical to identify the sources of supplementation for potential treatment. However, due to the structural complexity and limited available standards, the comprehensive profiling of 2-OH FAs remains an ongoing challenge. Herein, an innovative approach based on gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) was developed to determine the full profile of these FA metabolites. MS and MS/MS spectra of the trimethylsilyl (TMS) derivatives of 2-OH fatty acid methyl esters (FAMEs) were collected for peak annotation by their signature fragmentation patterns. The structures were further confirmed by validated structure-dependent retention time (RT) prediction models, taking advantage of the correlation between the RT, carbon chain length, and double bond number from commercial standards and pseudostandards identified in the whole-brain samples from mice. An in-house database containing 50 saturated and monounsaturated 2-OH FAs was established, which is expandible when additional molecular species with different chain lengths and backbone structures are identified in the future. A quantitation method was then developed by scheduled multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) and applied to investigate the profiling of 2-OH FAs in echinoderms. Our results revealed that the levels of total 2-OH FAs in sea cucumber Apostichopus japonicas (8.40 ± 0.28 mg/g dry weight) and starfish Asterias amurensis (7.51 ± 0.18 mg/g dry weight) are much higher than that in sea urchin Mesocentrotus nudus (531 ± 108 μg/g dry weight). Moreover, 2-OH C24:1 is the predominant molecular species accounting for 67.9% of the total 2-OH FA in sea cucumber, while 2-OH C16:0 is the major molecular species in starfish. In conclusion, the current innovative GC-MS approach has successfully characterized distinct molecular species of 2-OH FAs that are highly present in sea cucumbers and starfish. Thus, these findings suggest the possibility of developing future feeding strategies for preventing and treating diseases associated with 2-OH FA deficiency.

Osteogenic differentiation and reconstruction of mandible defects using a novel resorbable membrane: An in vitro and in vivo experimental study

To evaluate the cellular response of both an intact fish skin membrane and a porcine-derived collagen membrane and investigate the bone healing response of these membranes using a translational, preclinical, guided-bone regeneration (GBR) canine model. Two different naturally sourced membranes were evaluated in this study: (i) an intact fish skin membrane (Kerecis Oral®, Kerecis) and (ii) a porcine derived collagen (Mucograft®, Geistlich) membrane, positive control. For the in vitro experiments, human osteoprogenitor (hOP) cells were used to assess the cellular viability and proliferation at 24, 48, 72, and 168 h. ALPL, COL1A1, BMP2, and RUNX2 expression levels were analyzed by real-time PCR at 7 and 14 days. The preclinical component was designed to mimic a GBR model in canines (n = 12). The first step was the extraction of premolars (P1-P4) and the 1st molars bilaterally, thereby creating four three-wall box type defects per mandible (two per side). Each defect site was filled with bone grafting material, which was then covered with one of the two membranes (Kerecis Oral® or Mucograft®). The groups were nested within the mandibles of each subject and membranes randomly allocated among the defects to minimize potential site bias. Samples were harvested at 30-, 60-, and 90-days and subjected to computerized microtomography (μCT) for three-dimensional reconstruction to quantify bone formation and graft degradation, in addition to histological processing to qualitatively analyze bone regeneration. Neither the intact fish skin membrane nor porcine-based collagen membrane presented cytotoxic effects. An increase in cell proliferation rate was observed for both membranes, with the Kerecis Oral® outperforming the Mucograft® at the 48- and 168-hour time points. Kerecis Oral® yielded higher ALPL expression relative to Mucograft® at both 7- and 14-day points. Additionally, higher COL1A1 expression was observed for the Kerecis Oral® membrane after 7 days but no differences were detected at 14 days. The membranes yielded similar BMP2 and RUNX2 expression at 7 and 14 days. Volumetric reconstructions and histologic micrographs indicated gradual bone ingrowth along with the presence of particulate bone grafts bridging the defect walls for both Kerecis Oral® and Mucograft® membranes, which allowed for the reestablishment of the mandible shape after 90 days. New bone formation significantly increased from 30 to 60 days, and from 60 to 90 days in vivo, without significant differences between membranes. The amount of bovine grafting material (%) within the defects significantly decreased from 30 to 90 days. Collagen membranes led to an upregulation of cellular proliferation and adhesion along with increased expression of genes associated with bone healing, particularly the intact fish skin membrane. Despite an increase in the bone formation rate in the defect over time, there was no significant difference between the membranes.

A blinded-endpoint, randomized controlled trial of Sanyrene with natural active ingredient for prophylaxis of radiation dermatitis in patients receiving radiotherapy

BACKGROUND

Randomized controlled study was conducted to evaluate the efficacy of Sanyrene® vs. control intervention (DaBao®, a complex of hyaluronic acid and Vitamin E) for acute radiation dermatitis in patients receiving radiotherapy.

METHODS

Patients with breast cancer or head and neck cancer undergoing radiotherapy (≥ 50 Gy) were eligible. Participants were randomly assigned to either Sanyrene arm or control intervention arm in a ratio of 1:1. The primary endpoint was incidence rate of ≥ grade 2 radiation induced dermatitis. (Trial Registration: ChiCTR2100050910, registration date: 9/7/2021) RESULTS: A total of 102 eligible patients were randomly assigned into the study. The rate of ≥ grade 2 radiation dermatitis was 22% in Sanyrene group, as compared with 67.3% in the control intervention group (P<0.001). The incidence of grade 3 radiation dermatitis was 20.4% and 8.0% in control intervention group and Sanyrene group, respectively (P = 0.076). Patients in Sanyrene group had a longer median time to reach ≥ grade 2 radiation dermatitis compared to these in control intervention group, with hazard ratio of 0.231 (95%CI:0.116-0.458, p < 0.001). Mean score of SD-16 were much higher in control intervention group than Sanyrene group at end of radiotherapy (25 vs.8.3), 2 weeks after radiotherapy (22.9 vs. 0.5) and 4 weeks after radiotherapy (4.2 vs.0), with significantly statistical difference between two groups.

CONCLUSIONS

This trial suggests that Sanyrene is effective on preventing serious radiation dermatitis and improving skin related quality of life in patients with breast cancer or head and neck cancer receiving radiotherapy.

Hand Sanitizer Gels: Classification, Challenges, and the Future of Multipurpose Hand Hygiene Products

Hand hygiene is a crucial measure in the prevention and control of infections, and there is a growing awareness among individuals who are making a conscious effort to maintain hand cleanliness. With the advent of the SARS-CoV-2 outbreak, the demand for hand hygiene products has also gradually shifted towards those with antimicrobial properties. Among these products, hand sanitizer gels (HSGs) have gained considerable popularity as an efficient method of hand cleaning, due to their rapid drying and sustained antimicrobial efficacy. Concurrently, there has been a growing interest in novel HSGs that offer additional functions such as skin whitening, moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory effects. These novel HSGs effectively address concerns associated with the ingestion of antimicrobial ingredients and demonstrate reduced skin irritation, thereby alleviating hand dermatological issues. This review provides an extensive overview of the application scenarios, classification, and challenges associated with HSGs while emphasizing the emergence of novel components with biological functions, aiming to contribute to the advancement of hand hygiene practices and offer novel insights for the development of novel HSGs with outstanding antimicrobial properties with other multiple biological functions and desirable biosafety profiles.

Polar microalgae extracts protect human HaCaT keratinocytes from damaging stimuli and ameliorate psoriatic skin inflammation in mice

BACKGROUND

Polar microalgae contain unique compounds that enable them to adapt to extreme environments. As the skin barrier is our first line of defense against external threats, polar microalgae extracts may possess restorative properties for damaged skin, but the potential of microalgae extracts as skin protective agents remains unknown.

PURPOSE

This study aimed to analyze compound profiles from polar microalgae extracts, evaluate their potential as skin epithelial protective agents, and examine the underlying mechanisms.

METHODS

Six different polar microalgae, Micractinium sp. (KSF0015 and KSF0041), Chlamydomonas sp. (KNM0029C, KSF0037, and KSF0134), and Chlorococcum sp. (KSF0003), were collected from the Antarctic or Arctic regions. Compound profiles of polar and non-polar microalgae extracts were analyzed using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). The protective activities of polar microalgae extracts on human keratinocyte cell lines against oxidative stress, radiation, and psoriatic cytokine exposure were assessed. The potential anti-inflammatory mechanisms mediated by KSF0041, a polar microalga with protective properties against oxidative stress, ultraviolet (UV) B, and an inflammatory cytokine cocktail, were investigated using RNA-sequencing analysis. To evaluate the therapeutic activity of KSF0041, an imiquimod-induced murine model of psoriatic dermatitis was used.

RESULTS

Polar microalgae contain components comparable to those of their non-polar counterparts, but also showed distinct differences, particularly in fatty acid composition. Polar microalgae extracts had a greater ability to scavenge free radicals than did non-polar microalgae and enhanced the viability of HaCaT cells, a human keratinocyte cell line, following exposure to UVB radiation or psoriatic cytokines. These extracts also reduced barrier integrity damage and decreased mRNA levels of inflammatory cytokines in psoriatic HaCaT cells. Treatment with KSF0041 extract altered the transcriptome of psoriatic HaCaT cells toward a more normal state. Furthermore, KSF0041 extract had a therapeutic effect in a mouse model of psoriasis.

CONCLUSIONS

Bioactive compounds from polar microalgae extracts could provide novel therapeutics for damaged and/or inflamed skin.

Correlations between the alpha-Gal antigen, antibody response and calcification of cardiac valve bioprostheses: experimental evidence obtained using an alpha-Gal knockout mouse animal model

Introduction

Preformed antibodies against αGal in the human and the presence of αGal antigens on the tissue constituting the commercial bioprosthetic heart valves (BHVs, mainly bovine or porcine pericardium), lead to opsonization of the implanted BHV, leading to deterioration and calcification. Murine subcutaneous implantation of BHVs leaflets has been widely used for testing the efficacy of anti-calcification treatments. Unfortunately, commercial BHVs leaflets implanted into a murine model will not be able to elicit an αGal immune response because such antigen is expressed in the recipient and therefore immunologically tolerated.

Methods

This study evaluates the calcium deposition on commercial BHV using a new humanized murine αGal knockout (KO) animal model. Furtherly, the anti-calcification efficacy of a polyphenol-based treatment was deeply investigated. By using CRISPR/Cas9 approach an αGal KO mouse was created and adopted for the evaluation of the calcific propensity of original and polyphenols treated BHV by subcutaneous implantation. The calcium quantification was carried out by plasma analysis; the immune response evaluation was performed by histology and immunological assays. Anti-αGal antibodies level in KO mice increases at least double after 2 months of implantation of original commercial BHV compared to WT mice, conversely, the polyphenols-based treatment seems to effectively mask the antigen to the KO mice's immune system.

Results

Commercial leaflets explanted after 1 month from KO mice showed a four-time increased calcium deposition than what was observed on that explanted from WT. Polyphenol treatment prevents calcium deposition by over 99% in both KO and WT animals. The implantation of commercial BHV leaflets significantly stimulates the KO mouse immune system resulting in massive production of anti-Gal antibodies and the exacerbation of the αGal-related calcific effect if compared with the WT mouse.

Discussion

The polyphenol-based treatment applied in this investigation showed an unexpected ability to inhibit the recognition of BHV xenoantigens by circulating antibodies almost completely preventing calcific depositions compared to the untreated counterpart.

Review of available "extraction + purification" methods of natural ceramides and their feasibility for sewage sludge analysis

Natural ceramide, a biologically active compound present in plants, has been used widely in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries. Abundant ceramide has been detected in sewage sludge, which has inspired the idea to recycle ceramide from it. Therefore, the methods of extracting, purifying, and detecting ceramides from plants were reviewed, with the aim to establish methods to get condensed ceramide from sludge. Ceramide extraction methods include traditional methods (maceration, reflux, and Soxhlet extraction) and green technologies (ultrasound-assisted, microwave-assisted, and supercritical fluid extraction). In the past two decades, more than 70% of the articles have used traditional methods. However, green extraction methods are gradually improved and showed high extraction efficiency with lower solvent consumed. The preferred technique for ceramide purification is chromatography. Common solvent systems include chloroform-methanol, n-hexane-ethyl acetate, petroleum ether-ethyl acetate, and petroleum ether-acetone. For structural determination of ceramide, infrared spectroscopy, nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy, and mass spectrometry are used in combination. Among quantitative analysis methods for ceramide, liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry was the most accurate. This review concludes that with our prilemenary experiment results it is feasible to apply the plant "extraction + purification" process of ceramide to sludge, but more optimization need to be performed to get better results.

Lipid Differences and Related Metabolism Present on the Hand Skin Surface of Different-Aged Asiatic Females-An Untargeted Metabolomics Study

This cross-sectional study aimed to investigate differences in skin surface lipids (SSL) and explore related metabolic pathways among females of different ages in Henan Province. Ultra-performance liquid chromatography quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UPLC-QTOF-MS) was used to determine the lipid composition of the skin surface of 58 female volunteers who were divided into three age groups. Statistical analysis was performed using Progenesis QI, Ezinfo, and MetaboAnalyst. Multivariate and enrichment analysis were used to identify the different SSL among the groups. A total of 530 lipid entities were identified and classified into eight classes. Among these, 63 lipids were significantly different between the groups. Lower levels of glycerolipids (GLs) and sphingolipids (SPs) were observed in the middle-aged group, while higher levels of GLs were found in the elder group. GLs belonged to the largest and statistically significant enrichment of lipid metabolic pathways, and the lipid individuals enriched to the sphingoid bases metabolism were the most and statistically significant. These findings suggest that there are differences in hand SSL among females of different ages, which may be related to GLs and sphingoid bases metabolism.

In Silico Prediction of Stratum Corneum Partition Coefficients via COSMOmic and Molecular Dynamics Simulations

Stratum corneum (SC) is the main barrier of human skin where the inter-corneocytes lipids provide the main pathway for transdermal permeation of functional actives of skin care and health. Molecular dynamics (MD) has been increasingly used to simulate the SC lipid bilayer structure so that the barrier property and its affecting factors can be elucidated. Among reported MD simulation studies, solute partition in the SC lipids, an important parameter affecting SC permeability, has received limited attention. In this work, we combine MD simulation with COSMOmic to predict the partition coefficients of dermatologically relevant solutes in SC lipid bilayer. Firstly, we run MD simulations to obtain equilibrated SC lipid bilayers with different lipid types, compositions, and structures. Then, the simulated SC lipid bilayer structures are fed to COSMOmic to calculate the partition coefficients of the solutes. The results show that lipid types and bilayer geometries play a minor role in the predicted partition coefficients. For the more lipophilic solutes, the predicted results of solute partition in SC lipid bilayers agree well with reported experimental values of solute partition in extracted SC lipids. For the more hydrophilic molecules, there is a systematical underprediction. Nevertheless, the MD/COSMOmic approach correctly reproduces the phenomenological correlation between the SC lipid/water partition coefficients and the octanol/water partition coefficients. Overall, the results show that the MD/COSMOmic approach is a fast and valid method for predicting solute partitioning into SC lipids and hence supporting the assessment of percutaneous absorption of skin care ingredients, dermatological drugs as well as environmental pollutants.

Role of Omega-Hydroxy Ceramides in Epidermis: Biosynthesis, Barrier Integrity and Analyzing Method

Attached to the outer surface of the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE), omega-hydroxy ceramides (ω-OH-Cer) link to involucrin and function as lipid components of the stratum corneum (SC). The integrity of the skin barrier is highly dependent on the lipid components of SC, especially on ω-OH-Cer. Synthetic ω-OH-Cer supplementation has been utilized in clinical practice for epidermal barrier injury and related surgeries. However, the mechanism discussion and analyzing methods are not keeping pace with its clinical application. Though mass spectrometry (MS) is the primary choice for biomolecular analysis, method modifications for ω-OH-Cer identification are lacking in progress. Therefore, finding conclusions on ω-OH-Cer biological function, as well as on its identification, means it is vital to remind further researchers of how the following work should be done. This review summarizes the important role of ω-OH-Cer in epidermal barrier functions and the forming mechanism of ω-OH-Cer. Recent identification methods for ω-OH-Cer are also discussed, which could provide new inspirations for study on both ω-OH-Cer and skin care development.

Skin biomarkers predict development of atopic dermatitis in infancy

BACKGROUND

There is currently no insight into biomarkers that can predict the onset of pediatric atopic dermatitis (AD).

METHODS

Nested in a prospective birth cohort study that examined the occurrence of physician-diagnosed AD in 300 children, 44 random children with onset of AD in the first year of life were matched on sex and season of birth with 44 children who did not develop AD. Natural moisturizing factor (NMF), corneocyte surface protrusions, cytokines, free sphingoid bases (SBs) of different chain lengths and their ceramides were analyzed from tape strips collected at 2 months of age before onset of AD using liquid chromatography, atomic force microscopy, multiplex immunoassay, and liquid chromatography mass spectrometry, respectively.

RESULTS

Significant alterations were observed for four lipid markers, with phytosphingosine ([P]) levels being significantly lower in children who developed AD compared with children who did not (median 240 pmol/mg vs. 540 pmol/mg, p < 0.001). The two groups of children differed in the relative amounts of SB of different chain lengths (C17, C18 and C20). Thymus- and activation-regulated chemokine (TARC/CCL17) was slightly higher in children who developed AD, whereas NMF and corneocyte surface texture were similar. AD severity assessed by the eczema area and severity index (EASI) at disease onset was 4.2 (2.0;7.2). [P] had the highest prediction accuracy among the biomarkers (75.6%), whereas the combination of 5 lipid ratios gave an accuracy of 89.4%.

CONCLUSION

This study showed that levels and SB chain length were altered in infants who later developed AD, and that TARC/CCL17 levels were higher.

Evaluation of the Efficacy of an Ecobiological Dermo-Cosmetic Product to Help Manage and Prevent Relapses of Eyelid Atopic Dermatitis

Purpose

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic relapsing, inflammatory disease which causes eczematous lesions. Itching and symptoms visibility can have a significant impact on quality of life. This is the case when eyelids are affected. Therefore, we evaluated a dermo-cosmetic product designed to care AD on eyelids.

Subjects and Methods

An initial analysis of the product included 20 healthy women with no AD signs. A clinical evaluation of the effect of the product on AD sign severity was performed on 33 subjects presenting AD symptoms on eyelids. We also analyzed the product's capacity to prevent relapses in a parallel group clinical evaluation performed on 66 subjects.

Results

First, on the forearm skin of healthy subjects, the product reduces erythema and decreases transepidermal water loss when used for 28 days. Second, when clinically evaluated on subjects with eyelid symptoms undergoing a corticoid treatment, the product leads to reduced AD signs scored by a dermatologist, better self-evaluation of symptoms by subjects, and improved quality of life. Besides, upon assessment in a randomized controlled clinical evaluation with subjects prone to AD relapses but without symptoms, the product also drastically reduces relapse frequency. If erythema reduction is the only sign identified by a dermatologist, the product greatly and rapidly improves the quality of life of subjects.

Conclusion

These effects can be explained by the known actions of the product's ingredients. Rich in hydrating compounds, fatty acids and anti-inflammatory compounds, it aims at maintaining and restoring the epidermis structure and function to preserve it from irritants. It effectively shows that a daily care and hygiene routine with a dermo-cosmetic product designed according to an ecobiological approach leads to objective improvement of AD and subjective perception of quality of life.

Pseudomonas Aeruginosa Theft Biofilm Require Host Lipids of Cutaneous Wound

OBJECTIVE

This work addressing complexities in wound infection, seeks to test the reliance of bacterial pathogen Pseudomonas aeruginosa (PA) on host skin lipids to form biofilm with pathological consequences.

BACKGROUND

PA biofilm causes wound chronicity. Both CDC as well as NIH recognizes biofilm infection as a threat leading to wound chronicity. Chronic wounds on lower extremities often lead to surgical limb amputation.

METHODS

An established preclinical porcine chronic wound biofilm model, infected with PA or Pseudomonas aeruginosa ceramidase mutant (PA ∆Cer ), was used.

RESULTS

We observed that bacteria drew resource from host lipids to induce PA ceramidase expression by three orders of magnitude. PA utilized product of host ceramide catabolism to augment transcription of PA ceramidase. Biofilm formation was more robust in PA compared to PA ∆Cer . Downstream products of such metabolism such as sphingosine and sphingosine-1-phosphate were both directly implicated in the induction of ceramidase and inhibition of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR)δ, respectively. PA biofilm, in a ceram-idastin-sensitive manner, also silenced PPARδ via induction of miR-106b. Low PPARδ limited ABCA12 expression resulting in disruption of skin lipid homeostasis. Barrier function of the wound-site was thus compromised.

CONCLUSIONS

This work demonstrates that microbial pathogens must co-opt host skin lipids to unleash biofilm pathogenicity. Anti-biofilm strategies must not necessarily always target the microbe and targeting host lipids at risk of infection could be productive. This work may be viewed as a first step, laying fundamental mechanistic groundwork, toward a paradigm change in biofilm management.

Protective effect of Saussurea involucrata polysaccharide against skin dryness induced by ultraviolet radiation

Background: Exposure to ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation can damage the epidermis barrier function and eventually result in skin dryness. At present, little work is being devoted to skin dryness. Searching for active ingredients that can protect the skin against UVB-induced dryness will have scientific significance. Methods: Saussurea involucrata polysaccharide (SIP) has been shown to have significant antioxidant and anti-photodamage effects on the skin following UVB irradiation. To evaluate the effect of SIP on UVB-induced skin dryness ex vivo, SIP-containing hydrogel was applied in a mouse model following exposure to UVB and the levels of histopathological changes, DNA damage, inflammation, keratinocyte differentiation, lipid content were then evaluated. The underlying mechanisms of SIP to protect the cells against UVB induced-dryness were determined in HaCaT cells. Results: SIP was found to lower UVB-induced oxidative stress and DNA damage while increasing keratinocyte differentiation and lipid production. Western blot analysis of UVB-irradiated skin tissue revealed a significant increase in peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-α (PPAR-α) levels, indicating that the underlying mechanism may be related to PPAR-α signaling pathway activation. Conclusions: By activating the PPAR-α pathway, SIP could alleviate UVB-induced oxidative stress and inhibit the inflammatory response, regulate proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, and mitigate lipid synthesis disorder. These findings could provide candidate active ingredients with relatively clear mechanistic actions for the development of skin sunscreen moisturizers.

The Critical Role of Galectin-12 in Modulating Lipid Metabolism in Sebaceous Glands

Sebaceous glands play an important role in maintaining the skin barrier function by producing lipids. Dysregulated lipid production in these glands may contribute to the pathogenesis of human skin diseases. Galectin-12, a member of the β-galactoside‒binding lectin family, is preferentially expressed in adipocytes, where it regulates adipogenesis and functions as an intrinsic negative regulator of lipolysis. It is also expressed by sebocytes and contributes to the proliferation of this cell type. In this study, we show the association between galectin-12 expression and sebocyte differentiation. Galectin-12 knockdown in a human sebocyte cell line reduced lipogenesis and decreased the production of cholesteryl esters, triglycerides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol. Metabolomic analysis of skin surface lipids showed that the levels of the lipids mentioned earlier decreased in sebaceous gland‒specific galectin-12‒knockout mice compared with that in wild-type mice. In addition, galectin-12 positively regulated peroxisome proliferator‒activated receptor-γ transcriptional activity in sebocytes stimulated with fatty acids. Downregulating galectin-12 suppressed the expression of peroxisome proliferator‒activated receptor-γ target genes-acetyl-coenzyme A synthetase 2 gene ACS2 and diacylglycerol O-acyltransferase 1 gene DGAT1-that are required for fatty acid activation and cholesterol and triglyceride biosynthesis. In conclusion, galectin-12 is a positive regulator of sebaceous lipid metabolism with a potential role in the maintenance of skin homeostasis.

Menopause induces changes to the stratum corneum ceramide profile, which are prevented by hormone replacement therapy

The menopause can lead to epidermal changes that are alleviated by hormone replacement therapy (HRT). We hypothesise that these changes could relate to altered ceramide production, and that oestrogen may have a role in keratinocyte ceramide metabolism. White Caucasian women were recruited into three groups: pre-menopausal (n = 7), post-menopausal (n = 11) and post-menopausal taking HRT (n = 10). Blood samples were assessed for hormone levels, transepidermal water loss was measured to assess skin barrier function, and stratum corneum lipids were sampled from photoprotected buttock skin. Ceramides and sphingomyelins were analysed by ultraperformance liquid chromatography with electrospray ionisation and tandem mass spectrometry. Post-menopausal stratum corneum contained lower levels of ceramides, with shorter average length; changes that were not evident in the HRT group. Serum oestradiol correlated with ceramide abundance and length. Ceramides had shorter sphingoid bases, indicating altered de novo ceramide biosynthesis. Additionally, post-menopausal women had higher sphingomyelin levels, suggesting a possible effect on the hydrolysis pathway. Treatment of primary human keratinocytes with oestradiol (10 nM) increased production of CER[NS] and CER[NDS] ceramides, confirming an effect of oestrogen on cutaneous ceramide metabolism. Taken together, these data show perturbed stratum corneum lipids post-menopause, and a role for oestrogen in ceramide production.

Structural and Functional Analysis of Excised Skins and Human Reconstructed Epidermis with Confocal Raman Spectroscopy and in Microfluidic Diffusion Chambers

Several ex vivo and in vitro skin models are available in the toolbox of dermatological and cosmetic research. Some of them are widely used in drug penetration testing. The excised skins show higher variability, while the in vitro skins provide more reproducible data. The aim of the current study was to compare the chemical composition of different skin models (excised rat skin, excised human skin and human-reconstructed epidermis) by measurement of ceramides, cholesterol, lactate, urea, protein and water at different depths of the tissues. The second goal was to compile a testing system, which includes a skin-on-a-chip diffusion setup and a confocal Raman spectroscopy for testing drug diffusion across the skin barrier and accumulation in the tissue models. A hydrophilic drug caffeine and the P-glycoprotein substrate quinidine were used in the study as topical cream formulations. The results indicate that although the transdermal diffusion of quinidine is lower, the skin accumulation was comparable for the two drugs. The various skin models showed different chemical compositions. The human skin was abundant in ceramides and cholesterol, while the reconstructed skin contained less water and more urea and protein. Based on these results, it can be concluded that skin-on-a-chip and confocal Raman microspectroscopy are suitable for testing drug penetration and distribution at different skin layers within an exposition window. Furthermore, obese human skin should be treated with caution for skin absorption testing due to its unbalanced composition.

Sphingolipids as Functional Food Components: Benefits in Skin Improvement and Disease Prevention

Sphingolipids are ubiquitous components in eukaryotic organisms and have attracted attention as physiologically functional lipids. Sphingolipids with diverse structures are present in foodstuffs as these structures depend on the biological species they are derived from, such as mammals, plants, and fungi. The physiological functions of dietary sphingolipids, especially those that improve skin barrier function, have recently been noted. In addition, the roles of dietary sphingolipids in the prevention of diseases, including cancer and metabolic syndrome, have been studied. However, the mechanisms underlying the health-improving effects of dietary sphingolipids, especially their metabolic fates, have not been elucidated. Here, we review dietary sphingolipids, including their chemical structures and contents in foodstuff; digestion, intestinal absorption, and metabolism; and nutraceutical functions, based on the available evidence and hypotheses. Further research is warranted to clearly define how dietary sphingolipids can influence human health.

Topical application of Aloe gel and/or olive oil combination promotes the wound healing properties of streptozotocin-induced diabetic rats

Diabetic wounds are characterized by a delayed closure rate due to the excess inflammation and the inhibition of angiogenesis. Natural products derived from Aloe vera have shown great promise due to their healing magnificent properties. Olive oil is another natural product with anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties that may contribute to the healing process. In the present investigation, we tried to evaluate the efficacy of topical application of Aloe gel and/or olive oil in the enhancement of diabetic wounds using histological and immunohistochemical analysis. Excisional wounds were created on the back skin of streptozotocin-induced diabetic rats. Topical treatments of Aloe gel and/or olive oil were applied separately and in a combination (AVO) daily for experimental groups. Macroscopic and microscopic observations of the excision wounds were monitored at time intervals (3, 6, 9, 14 days) post-wounding. Macroscopic observations of the AVO group exhibited almost complete healing at day 14, while other groups were still in progress. Similarly, immunohistochemical analysis of the AVO group showed a mild expression pattern of NF-κB.. While, the cell proliferation (Ki-67), and angiogenesis (CD34) markers were upregulated. Conclusively, the obtained results showed that the AVO combination effectively improved the healing process in diabetic excisional wounds with significant differences in the healing kinetics compared to wounds that received Aloe gel or olive oil separately.

Moisturizer in Patients with Inflammatory Skin Diseases

As interest in skin increases, the cosmetic market is also growing. It is difficult to choose between the numerous types of basic cosmetics on the market. This article aims to provide advice and guidance on which products to recommend according to a patient’s skin condition. Appropriate application of a moisturizer attempts not only to improve the dryness, but also improve the skin’s natural barrier function to protect the skin from internal and external irritants to keep the skin healthy. Moisturizers consist of various ingredients, including occlusive agents, emollients, humectants, lipid mixture, emulsifiers, and preservatives. Pathophysiology of dry skin is also discussed to provide readers with the background they need to choose the right moisturizer for themselves. As moisturizers play an important role as adjuvant in the treatment of common skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, psoriasis, acne and rosacea, which type of moisturizer is appropriate for each disease was also dealt with. Basic cosmetics, especially moisturizers, should be recommended in consideration of the ingredients, effectiveness and safety of each product, and the skin condition of each patient.

Paclitaxel Induces Epidermal Molecular Changes and Produces Subclinical Alterations in the Skin of Gynecological Cancer Patients

Simple Summary

Skin toxicity is one of paclitaxel’s adverse effects. However, its real impact on the skin could be underestimated as these alterations can also appear asymptomatic. We have observed that paclitaxel modifies gene and protein expression of skin markers in a 3D epidermis model, and impairs physical, physiological, and biomechanical properties of the skin in gynecologic cancer patients. These subclinical alterations might be avoided by using prophylactic measures during treatment to prevent possible future adverse reactions.

Abstract

Background: Paclitaxel is a microtubule-stabilizing chemotherapeutic agent. Despite its widespread use, it damages healthy tissues such as skin. The goal of this study was to prove that the real impact of paclitaxel-induced skin toxicity could be underestimated because the adverse events might appear asymptomatic. Methods: Gynecological cancer patients were recruited. Skin parameters measurements were taken after three and six paclitaxel cycles. Measurements were conducted using specific probes which measure hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum, elasticity and firmness, erythema, roughness, smoothness, skin thickness, and desquamation levels. Further, a 3D epidermis model was incubated with paclitaxel to analyze gene and protein expression of aquaporin 3, collagen type 1, elastin, and fibronectin. Results: Paclitaxel induced alterations in the skin parameters with no visible clinical manifestations. Gynecological cancer patients under paclitaxel treatment had a decrease in hydration, TEWL, sebum, elasticity, and thickness of the skin, while erythema, roughness, and desquamation were increased. The molecular markers, related to hydration and the support of the skin layers, and analyzed in the 3D epidermis model, were decreased. Conclusions: Results suggest that paclitaxel modifies gene and protein expression of skin-related molecular markers, and impairs different physical, physiological, and biomechanical properties of the skin of cancer patients at a subclinical level.

Synergistic photodynamic/photothermal bacterial inactivation over heterogeneous quaternized chitosan/silver/cobalt phosphide nanocomposites

Globally, drug-resistant bacteria are a potential threat to human society owing to the overuse of antibiotics and thus, non-antibiotic bactericides are urgently needed. Herein, an innovative antibacterial nanoplatform based on quaternized chitosan (QCS)/ silver (Ag)/ cobalt phosphide (CoP) nanocomposites is envisaged for achieving near-infrared (NIR) laser-inducible rapid sterilisation. In the core-shell hybrids, Ag nanoparticles (NPs) with a size of ∼ 25 nm were uniformly deposited on CoP nanoneedles, upon which a layer of QCS (approximately 10 wt%), is coated. Numerical calculations revealed that under NIR irradiation, high-energy hot electrons arising from the surface plasmon resonance effect of Ag migrate into the interface between Ag and CoP, and amplify the photothermal effect of CoP. Meanwhile, photo-excited electrons from CoP are transported onto Ag NPs because the Schottky heterostructure facilitates the production of reactive oxygen species. Ag loading simultaneously enhances the photocatalytic and photothermal effects of CoP, achieving rapid antibacterial activity synergistically. The QCS coating improves the dispersibility of power in an aqueous system and provides contact between the antiseptics and bacteria. The ternary QCS/Ag/CoP nanocomposites achieved greater than 99.6% inactivation against S. aureus and E. coli within 10 min. In addition, the nanocomposites were confirmed to be noncytotoxic to mammals. Consequently, the QCS/Ag/CoP nanoplatforms possess great potential for rapid and effective antibacterial applications.

Skin Barrier Function in Infants: Update and Outlook

A good understanding of infant skin should provide a rationale for optimum management of the health of this integument. In this review, we discuss the skin barrier function of infants, particularly with reference to the use of diapers and baby wipes. The skin barrier of newborns continues to develop with age. Two years after birth, the barrier properties of infant skin closely resemble those of adult skin. However, several risk factors may contribute to impaired skin barrier and altered skin permeability in infants. Problems may arise from the use of diapers and baby wipes. The skin covered by a diaper is effectively an occluded environment, and thus is vulnerable to over-hydration. To date there has been no published information regarding dermal absorption of ingredients contained in baby wipes. Similarly, dermal absorption of topical ingredients in infants with underlying skin conditions has not been widely explored. Clearly, there are serious ethical concerns related to conducting skin permeation studies on infant skin. However, the increasing availability of non-invasive methods for in vivo studies is encouraging and offers new directions for studying this important patient group.

Aeroterrestrial and Extremophilic Microalgae as Promising Sources for Lipids and Lipid Nanoparticles in Dermal Cosmetics

Microscopic prokaryotic and eukaryotic algae (microalgae), which can be effectively grown in mass cultures, are gaining increasing interest in cosmetics. Up to now, the main attention was on aquatic algae, while species from aeroterrestrial and extreme environments remained underestimated. In these habitats, algae accumulate high amounts of some chemical substances or develop specific compounds, which cause them to thrive in inimical conditions. Among such biologically active molecules is a large family of lipids, which are significant constituents in living organisms and valuable ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Therefore, natural sources of lipids are increasingly in demand in the modern cosmetic industry and its innovative technologies. Among novelties in skin care products is the use of lipid nanoparticles as carriers of dermatologically active ingredients, which enhance their penetration and release in the skin strata. This review is an attempt to comprehensively cover the available literature on the high-value lipids from microalgae, which inhabit aeroterrestrial and extreme habitats (AEM). Data on different compounds of 87 species, subspecies and varieties from 53 genera (represented by more than 141 strains) from five phyla are provided and, despite some gaps in the current knowledge, demonstrate the promising potential of AEM as sources of valuable lipids for novel skin care products.

A Biomimetic Combination of Actives Enhances Skin Hydration and Barrier Function via Modulation of Gene Expression: Results of Two Double-Blind, Vehicle-Controlled Clinical Studies

INTRODUCTION

Xerosis cutis is characterized by a decreased stratum corneum (SC) hydration and an impaired skin barrier function. Urea, the most prevalent natural moisturizing factor (NMF), is currently considered the gold standard. Its efficacy can further be increased by combining urea with other NMF and skin barrier lipids (SBLs).

OBJECTIVE

We set out to evaluate physiological effects of a novel functional moisturizer containing 10% urea, additional NMF components, and a combination of SBLs on skin hydration and skin barrier integrity on a cellular and phenotypic level in female volunteers suffering from xerosis.

METHODS

Two double-blind, vehicle-controlled clinical studies were conducted. In the first study, 44 female subjects having very dry body skin applied the moisturizer or its vehicle twice daily to their volar forearms. Twenty-four hours after a single product application as well as 24 h after 2 weeks of treatment, SC hydration was measured by corneometry. Skin barrier function was assessed by transepidermal water loss 24 h and 48 h after 2 weeks of regular use. Twenty-four hours after 2 weeks of application, skin tape stripping was performed, and urea content was determined in the 3rd strip by means of high-performance liquid chromatography/tandem mass spectrometry. In the second study, 22 women with self-reported very dry skin applied the moisturizer or vehicle twice daily to their volar forearms for 2 weeks. Then, suction blister samples were obtained for gene expression analysis using RT-PCR.

RESULTS

Application of the actives led to significantly improved skin hydration and barrier function at all points in time. Compared to the vehicle, application of the moisturizer for 2 weeks resulted in a significant increase in SC urea content. Relative gene expression data revealed significant upregulation of genes associated with skin barrier function, hydration, differentiation, and lipid metabolism compared to the vehicle-treated area.

CONCLUSIONS

Overall, our data demonstrate that the functional moisturizer provides an adequate bioavailability of urea and a beneficial biophysical impact on xerotic skin. Topical treatment with a combination of urea and additional NMF as well as SBL can modify mRNA expression of important epidermal genes stimulating cellular processes and functions. The well-tolerated novel functional moisturizer stimulates molecular mechanisms involved in skin hydration and barrier function and is a profoundly effective treatment option for xerosis cutis.

Three New Dexpanthenol-Containing Face Creams: Performance and Acceptability after Single and Repeated Applications in Subjects of Different Ethnicity with Dry and Sensitive Skin

Three novel face creams containing dexpanthenol with different lipid contents were developed for dry skin sufferers: a day face cream (DFC), a day face cream with sun protection (DFC-SPF), and a night face cream (NFC). Three identically designed studies (N = 42–44 each) were conducted with healthy adults of three ethnicities (African, Asian, Caucasian) with dry/sensitive skin. Effects on stratum corneum (SC) hydration, SC lipid content, and skin elasticity were quantified by established noninvasive methods during the 4-week studies. After single and repeated once-daily applications of the face creams, facial hydration significantly increased from baseline. On day 28, the mean increments in skin hydration amounted to 27%, 26%, and 27% (p < 0.0001 each) for DFC, DFC-SPF, and NFC, respectively. Favorable effects of DFC, DFC-SPF, and NFC on facial moisturization were observed in all three ethnic groups. The enhancements in SC hydration were not paralleled by improvements in skin elasticity parameters but lipid analyses showed significant increases in SC cholesterol, SC free fatty acid, and/or SC ceramide levels. All three face creams were well tolerated and achieved a high product satisfaction and acceptability by study participants. Our findings support the once-daily use of the face creams in adults of different ethnicities with dry and sensitive skin.

In vivo examination of healthy human skin after short-time treatment with moisturizers using confocal Raman spectroscopy and optical coherence tomography: Preliminary observations

Skin is our barrier against environmental damage. Moisturizers are widely used to increase hydration and barrier integrity of the skin; however, there are contrasting observations on their in vivo effects in real-life settings. In cosmetic studies, corneometers and tewameters are traditionally used to assess skin hydration. In this study, two novel noninvasive diagnostic techniques, optical coherence tomography (OCT) and confocal Raman spectroscopy, were used to analyze stratum corneum and epidermal thickness (ET), water content, blood flow in function of depth, skin roughness, attenuation coefficient, natural moisturizing factor, ceramides and free fatty acids, cholesterol, urea, and lactates in 20 female subjects aged between 30 and 45 before and after 2 weeks application of a commercially available moisturizing lotion on one forearm. The untreated forearm served as control. A third measurement was conducted 1 week after cessation of moisturizing to verify whether the changes in the analyzed parameters persisted. We noticed a reduction in skin roughness, an increase in ceramides and free fatty acids and a not statistically significant increase in ET. As a conclusion, short time moisturizing appears insufficient to provide significant changes in skin morphology and composition, as assessed by OCT and RS. Novel noninvasive imaging methods are suitable for the evaluation of skin response to topical moisturizers. Further studies on larger sample size and longer treatment schedules are needed to analyze changes under treatment with moisturizers and to standardize the use of novel noninvasive diagnostic techniques.

The Pathogenic and Therapeutic Implications of Ceramide Abnormalities in Atopic Dermatitis

Ceramides play an essential role in forming a permeability barrier in the skin. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common chronic skin disease associated with skin barrier dysfunction and immunological abnormalities. In patients with AD, the amount and composition of ceramides in the stratum corneum are altered. This suggests that ceramide abnormalities are involved in the pathogenesis of AD. The mechanism underlying lipid abnormalities in AD has not yet been fully elucidated, but the involvement of Th2 and Th1 cytokines is implicated. Ceramide-dominant emollients have beneficial effects on skin barrier function; thus, they have been approved as an adjunctive barrier repair agent for AD. This review summarizes the current understanding of the mechanisms of ceramide abnormalities in AD. Furthermore, the potential therapeutic approaches for correcting ceramide abnormalities in AD are discussed.

Keratinocyte-derived IL-1β induces PPARG downregulation and PPARD upregulation in human reconstructed epidermis following barrier impairment

Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPARs) are a family of nuclear hormone receptors. In skin, PPARs modulate inflammation, lipid synthesis, keratinocyte differentiation and proliferation and thus are important for skin barrier homeostasis. Accordingly, PPAR expression is altered in various skin conditions that entail epidermal barrier impairment, that is atopic dermatitis (AD) and psoriasis. Using human epidermal equivalents (HEEs), we established models of acute epidermal barrier impairment devoid of immune cells. We assessed PPAR and cytokine expression after barrier perturbation and examined effects of keratinocyte-derived cytokines on PPAR expression. We show that acetone or SDS treatment causes graded impairment of epidermal barrier function. Furthermore, we demonstrate that besides IL-1β and TNFα, IL-33 and TSLP are highly relevant markers for acute epidermal barrier impairment. Both SDS- and acetone-mediated epidermal barrier impairment reduce PPARG expression levels, whereas only SDS enhances PPARD expression. In line with findings in IL-1β and TNFα-treated HEEs, abrogation of IL-1 signalling restores PPARG expression and limits the increase of PPARD expression in SDS-induced epidermal barrier impairment. Thus, following epidermal barrier perturbation, keratinocyte-derived IL-1β and partly TNFα modulate PPARG and PPARD expression. These results emphasize a role for PPARγ and PPARβ/δ in acute epidermal barrier impairment with possible implications for diseases such as AD and psoriasis.

Clinical and biochemical footprints of inherited metabolic diseases. VI. Metabolic dermatoses

Cutaneous signs and symptoms may facilitate the diagnosis or can help in identifying complications or side effects of overtreatment of inherited metabolic diseases. The principal manifestations can be grouped into vascular lesions, ichthyosis, papular and nodular skin lesions, abnormal pigmentation, photosensitivity, skin laxity, hair shaft involvement, and nail abnormalities. We have summarized associations of these cutaneous signs and symptoms in 252 inherited metabolic diseases. This represents the sixth of a series of articles attempting to create and maintain a comprehensive list of clinical and metabolic differential diagnoses according to system involvement.

Epidermal Lamellar Body Biogenesis: Insight Into the Roles of Golgi and Lysosomes

Epidermal lamellar bodies (eLBs) are secretory organelles that carry a wide variety of secretory cargo required for skin homeostasis. eLBs belong to the class of lysosome-related organelles (LROs), which are cell-type-specific organelles that perform diverse functions. The formation of eLBs is thought to be related to that of other LROs, which are formed either through the gradual maturation of Golgi/endosomal precursors or by the conversion of conventional lysosomes. Current evidence suggests that eLB biogenesis presumably initiate from trans-Golgi network and receive cargo from endosomes, and also acquire lysosome characteristics during maturation. These multistep biogenesis processes are frequently disrupted in human skin disorders. However, many gaps remain in our understanding of eLB biogenesis and their relationship to skin diseases. Here, we describe our current understanding on eLB biogenesis with a focus on cargo transport to this LRO and highlight key areas where future research is needed.

Increased Levels of Short-Chain Ceramides Modify the Lipid Organization and Reduce the Lipid Barrier of Skin Model Membranes

The skin barrier function is attributed to the stratum corneum (SC) intercellular lipid matrix, which is composed primarily of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids, and cholesterol. These lipids are organized in two lamellar phases: the short and long periodicity phases (SPP and LPP), respectively. The LPP is considered important for the skin barrier function. High levels of short-chain CERs are observed in various inflammatory skin diseases and have been correlated with barrier dysfunction. In this research, we investigated how the increase in the fraction of the short-chain CER with a nonhydroxy C16 acyl chain linked to a C18 sphingosine base CER NS(C16) at the expense of the physiological chain length CER NS with a C24 acyl chain (CER NS(C24)) impacts the microstructure and barrier function of a lipid model that mimicked certain characteristics of the SC lipid organization. The permeability and lipid organization of the model membranes were compared with that of a control model without CER NS(C16). The permeability increased significantly when ≥50% of CER NS(C24) was substituted with CER NS(C16). Employing biophysical techniques, we showed that the lipid packing density reduced with an increasing proportion of CER NS(C16). Substitution of 75% of CER NS(C24) by CER NS(C16) resulted in the formation of phase-separated lipid domains and alteration of the LPP structure. Using deuterium-labeled lipids enabled simultaneous characterization of the C24 and C16 acyl chains in the lipid models, providing insight into the mechanisms underlying the reduced skin barrier function in diseased skin.

Inherited disorders of complex lipid metabolism: A clinical review

Over 80 human diseases have been attributed to defects in complex lipid metabolism. A majority of them have been reported recently in the setting of rapid advances in genomic technology and their increased use in clinical settings. Lipids are ubiquitous in human biology and play roles in many cellular and intercellular processes. While inborn errors in lipid metabolism can affect every organ system with many examples of genetic heterogeneity and pleiotropy, the clinical manifestations of many of these disorders can be explained based on the disruption of the metabolic pathway involved. In this review, we will discuss the physiological function of major pathways in complex lipid metabolism, including nonlysosomal sphingolipid metabolism, acylceramide metabolism, de novo phospholipid synthesis, phospholipid remodeling, phosphatidylinositol metabolism, mitochondrial cardiolipin synthesis and remodeling, and ether lipid metabolism as well as common clinical phenotypes associated with each.

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

Nowadays, much attention is paid to issues such as ecology and sustainability. Many consumers choose “green cosmetics”, which are environmentally friendly creams, makeup, and beauty products, hoping that they are not harmful to health and reduce pollution. Moreover, the repeated mini-lock downs during the COVID-19 pandemic have fueled the awareness that body beauty is linked to well-being, both external and internal. As a result, consumer preferences for makeup have declined, while those for skincare products have increased. Nutricosmetics, which combines the benefits derived from food supplementation with the advantages of cosmetic treatments to improve the beauty of our body, respond to the new market demands. Food chemistry and cosmetic chemistry come together to promote both inside and outside well-being. A nutricosmetic optimizes the intake of nutritional microelements to meet the needs of the skin and skin appendages, improving their conditions and delaying aging, thus helping to protect the skin from the aging action of environmental factors. Numerous studies in the literature show a significant correlation between the adequate intake of these supplements, improved skin quality (both aesthetic and histological), and the acceleration of wound-healing. This review revised the main foods and bioactive molecules used in nutricosmetic formulations, their cosmetic effects, and the analytical techniques that allow the dosage of the active ingredients in the food.

Adult skin acute stress responses to short-term environmental and internal aggression from exposome factors

Exposome factors that lead to stressed skin can be defined as any disturbance to homeostasis from environmental (meteorological factors, solar radiation, pollution or tobacco smoke) and/or internal exposure (unhealthy diet, hormonal variations, lack of sleep, psychosocial stress). The clinical and biological impact of chronic exposome effects on skin functions has been extensively reviewed, whereas there is a paucity of information on the impact of short‐term acute exposure. Acute stress, which would typically last minutes to hours (and generally no more than a week), provokes a transient but robust neuroendocrine‐immune and tissue remodelling response in the skin and can alter the skin barrier. Firstly, we provide an overview of the biological effects of various acute stressors on six key skin functions, namely the skin physical barrier, pigmentation, defences (antioxidant, immune cell‐mediated, microbial and microbiome maintenance), structure (extracellular matrix and appendages), neuroendocrine and thermoregulation functions. Secondly, we describe the biological and clinical effects on adult skin from individual exposome factors that elicit an acute stress response and their consequences in skin health maintenance. Clinical manifestations of acutely stressed skin may include dry skin that might accentuate fine lines, oily skin, sensitive skin, pruritus, erythema, pale skin, sweating, oedema and flares of inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, pigmentation disorders and skin superinfection such as viral reactivation. Acute stresses can also induce scalp sensitivity, telogen effluvium and worsen alopecia.

An Extract from Ficus carica Cell Cultures Works as an Anti-Stress Ingredient for the Skin

Psychological stress activates catecholamine production, determines oxidation processes, and alters the lipid barrier functions in the skin. Scientific evidence associated with the detoxifying effect of fruits and vegetables, the growing awareness of the long-term issues related to the use of chemical-filled cosmetics, the aging of the population, and the increase in living standards are the factors responsible for the growth of food-derived ingredients in the cosmetics market. A Ficus carica cell suspension culture extract (FcHEx) was tested in vitro (on keratinocytes cells) and in vivo to evaluate its ability to manage the stress-hormone-induced damage in skin. The FcHEx reduced the epinephrine (-43% and -24% at the concentrations of 0.002% and 0.006%, respectively), interleukin 6 (-38% and -36% at the concentrations of 0.002% and 0.006%, respectively), lipid peroxide (-25%), and protein carbonylation (-50%) productions; FcHEx also induced ceramide synthesis (+150%) and ameliorated the lipid barrier performance. The in vivo experiments confirmed the in vitro test results. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL; -12.2%), sebum flow (-46.6% after two weeks and -73.8% after four weeks; on the forehead -56.4% after two weeks and -80.1% after four weeks), and skin lightness (+1.9% after two weeks and +2.7% after four weeks) defined the extract's effects on the skin barrier. The extract of the Ficus carica cell suspension cultures reduced the transepidermal water loss, the sebum production, the desquamation, and facial skin turning to a pale color from acute stress, suggesting its role as an ingredient to fight the signs of psychological stress in the skin.

Skin lipids in health and disease: A review

Our skin is the interface between us and our environment - a flexible barrier that has evolved for protection, immunity, regulation and sensation. Once regarded as inert, we now know that it is a dynamic environment. Skin lipids are crucial to the structure and function of skin. From deep in the hypodermis, through the ceramide-rich epidermis, to the lipids of the skin surface, there are a vast array of different lipids with important roles to play. This review firstly discusses the lipid composition of human skin and secondly, changes that have been found in skin lipid composition in different skin diseases. Further research into skin lipids facilitated by ever-improving methodologies will no doubt generate new knowledge, paving the way for diagnosis, prevention and treatment of skin disorders and diseases.

Structural Relationships Between Interstitial Cells of Cajal and Smooth Muscle Cells/Nerve Fibers in the Gastric Muscularis Mucosae of Chinese Giant Salamander

Interstitial cells of Cajal (ICC) play an essential role in the motility of the gastrointestinal tract, and they have been identified in many laboratory animals and in humans. However, the information of ICC in lower animals is still very limited. In the present study, ICC were identified in the gastric muscularis mucosae of an amphibian—the Chinese giant salamander, by c-Kit immunohistochemistry and transmission electron microscopy. ICC showed c-Kit immunoreactivity and had spindle-shaped cell bodies and 1–2 long processes. ICC were located between smooth muscle cells (SMC) in gastric muscularis mucosae. Ultrastructurally, ICC appeared as polygon-, spindle-, and awl-shaped with long cytoplasmic prolongations between SMC. ICC had distinctive characteristics, such as nuclei with peripheral electron-dense heterochromatin, caveolae, and abundant intracytoplasmatic vacuoles, mitochondria, and rough endoplasmic reticula. Moreover, lamellar bodies and two types of condensed granules were observed in the cytoplasm of ICC. Notably, ICC establish close contacts with each other. Moreover, ICC establish gap junctions with SMC. In addition, ICC were frequently observed close to nerve fibers. In summary, the present study demonstrated the presence of ICC in the gastric muscularis mucosae of the Chinese giant salamander.