Prospective randomized double-blind comparative study of topical acetyl zingerone with tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate versus tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate alone on facial photoaging

BACKGROUND

Tetrahexydecyl ascorbate (THDA) is a lipophilic precursor to ascorbic acid that may be stabilized by acetyl zingerone (AZ). Studies have shown that the topical application of THDA may have photoprotective effects. Similarly, AZ has been shown to mitigate oxidative and inflammatory stress, thereby improving the appearance of photoaging.

AIMS

To examine the effects of THDA and AZ (THDA-AZ) on skin photoaging compared to THDA alone.

PATIENTS/METHODS

In this double-blind, randomized controlled trial, healthy individuals aged 30 to 65 were included and 44 participants were randomized to receive either THDA-AZ (THDA 5% + AZ 1%) or THDA only (THDA 5%) for 8 weeks. Facial photographs were taken at 0, 4, and 8 weeks to analyze wrinkle severity, pigment intensity, and redness intensity. A skin colorimeter was used to assess infraorbital pigmentation and erythema. Self-perception of skin and tolerability were assessed through questionnaires.

RESULTS

Average wrinkle severity was significantly decreased in the THDA-AZ group at Weeks 4 and 8 by 0.75% (p = 0.023) and 3.72% (p = 0.048), respectively, compared to the THDA group where wrinkle severity at Weeks 4 and 8 was increased by 7.88% and 4.48%, respectively. Facial pigment intensity was significantly decreased in the THDA-AZ group by 4.10% (p = 0.0002) at Week 8 compared to a 0.69% decrease in the THDA group. Facial redness intensity was decreased in the THDA-AZ group at Weeks 4 and 8 by 3.73% (p = 0.0162) and 14.25% (p = 0.045), respectively, compared to the THDA group where at Weeks 4 and 8 erythema increased by 27.5% and 8.34%, respectively. There were no significant differences in either group for infraorbital pigmentation or erythema.

CONCLUSIONS

Daily use of combined THDA and AZ may improve facial wrinkle severity, pigment intensity, and erythema to a greater extent than THDA. While THDA alone increases facial wrinkle severity and erythema, the addition of AZ reduces both.

Formulation of Ascorbic Acid and Betaine-based Therapeutic Deep Eutectic System for Enhanced Transdermal Delivery of Ascorbic Acid

L-ascorbic acid (AA), a potent antioxidant, is commonly used topically in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields. However, the incorporation of AA into topical formulations is difficult because of its highly unstable nature and relatively poor skin permeability. In this study, we propose an alternative strategy for improving the solubility and topical delivery of AA through its conversion to a therapeutic deep eutectic system (THEDES). AA and betaine (Bet)-based THEDESs were prepared at certain molar ratios and characterized using polarized optical microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and differential scanning calorimetry. Solubility tests showed that AA in the form of THEDES was readily soluble in various polyols (glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and 1,3-propanediol) at a high concentration (approximately 40%). Furthermore, compared to AA alone or the physical mixture of AA and Bet, AA-based THEDES significantly enhanced AA delivery through porcine skin. In an in vivo human study, THEDES-containing serum reduced the markers of aging and induced an even skin tone. These findings indicate the utility of AA and Bet-based THEDES as novel transdermal delivery systems for AA. Furthermore, our approach also showed good extension to developing gluconolactone, a well-known natural antioxidant, and Bet-based THEDES, showing potential application in transdermal delivery systems.

Open-label topical application of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and acetyl zingerone containing serum improves the appearance of photoaging and uneven pigmentation

BACKGROUND

Skin photoaging and uneven pigmentation are common dermatological concerns. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) and acetyl zingerone (AZ) are potent antioxidants that have been shown to have anti-photoaging and anti-pigmentation effects. THDA is a more stable and penetrable form of vitamin C. AZ is an antioxidant derived from ginger which has clinical evidence for improving photoaging. However, no studies have assessed how they may synergistically act on the skin.

AIMS

This study aims to assess whether a serum containing both THDA and AZ can improve photoaging and the appearance of uneven facial pigmentation.

PATIENTS/METHODS

This open-label study was conducted on 35 healthy individuals aged 21-55. All subjects were instructed to use three to five drops of the topical serum (Power-C Serum, Image Skincare, Lantana, FL) daily for 12 weeks. Videomicroscopy and high-resolution photography and various skin biophysical measurements were taken at baseline, 1, 4, and 12 weeks. Outcomes included skin tone and pigmentation, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin smoothness, firmness, and elasticity.

RESULTS

Compared to baseline, the results at 12 weeks revealed significant decreases in skin pigmentation (p < 0.0001), decreased fine lines and wrinkles (p < 0.0001), and increased smoothness (p < 0.0001), firmness (p < 0.0001), and elasticity (p < 0.0001). Additionally, transepidermal water loss was significantly decreased at 4 weeks compared to baseline (p = 0.01), indicating an increased epidermal barrier integrity.

CONCLUSIONS

Overall, these findings provide evidence for the combined use of THDA and AZ to address skin photoaging and dyspigmentation changes.

Unveiling the mechanisms for the development of rosehip-based dermatological products: an updated review

Rosa spp., commonly known as rosehips, are wild plants that have traditionally been employed as herbal remedies for the treatment of a wide range of disorders. Rosehip is a storehouse of vitamins, including A, B complex, C, and E. Among phytonutrients, vitamin C is found in the highest amount. As rosehips contain significant levels of vitamin C, they are perfect candidates for the development of skincare formulations that can be effectively used in the treatment of different skin disorders (i.e., scarring, anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, melasma, and atopic dermatitis). This research focuses on the vitamin C content of several Rosa sp. by their botanical and geographic origins, which according to research studies are in the following order: R. rugosa > R. montana > R. canina > R. dumalis, with lower levels in R. villosa and R. arvensis, respectively. Among rosehip species, R. canina is the most extensively studied species which also displays significant amounts of bioactive compounds, but also antioxidant, and antimicrobial activities (e.g., against Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, S, epidermis, and S. haemolyticus). The investigation also highlights the use of rosehip extracts and oils to minimise the harmful effects of acne, which primarily affects teenagers in terms of their physical appearance (e.g., scarring, hyperpigmentation, imperfections), as well as their moral character (e.g., low self-confidence, bullying). Additionally, for higher vitamin C content from various rosehip species, the traditional (i.e., infusion, maceration, Soxhlet extraction) and contemporary extraction methods (i.e., supercritical fluid extraction, microwave-assisted, ultrasonic-assisted, and enzyme-assisted extractions) are highlighted, finally choosing the best extraction method for increased bioactive compounds, with emphasis on vitamin C content. Consequently, the current research focuses on assessing the potential of rosehip extracts as medicinal agents against various skin conditions, and the use of rosehip concentrations in skincare formulations (such as toner, serum, lotion, and sunscreen). Up-to-date studies have revealed that rosehip extracts are perfect candidates as topical application products in the form of nanoemulsions. Extensive in vivo studies have revealed that rosehip extracts also exhibit specific activities against multiple skin disorders (i.e., wound healing, collagen synthesis, atopic dermatitis, melasma, and anti-aging effects). Overall, with multiple dermatological actions and efficacies, rosehip extracts and oils are promising agents that require a thorough investigation of their functioning processes to enable their safe use in the skincare industry.

Kombucha fermentation as a modern way of processing vineyard by-products into cosmetic raw materials

OBJECTIVE

The wine industry generates large quantities of by-products presenting a remarkably valuable composition in phytochemicals. The process that can significantly increase the content of bioactive compounds is fermentation by yeast and other microorganisms. The current study presents, for the first time, an evaluation of the potential of grape stems extract and its ferments using the Scoby consortium, as a cosmetic raw material for improving the skin care properties of facial cosmetics.

METHODS

Fermentation of grape stems using Scoby consortium was carried out for 10 and 20 days. Unfermented and fermented extracts were analysed for their antioxidant activity and chemical composition, with a particular emphasis on biologically active substances. Additionally, the influence of the addition of the obtained ferments to the model cosmetic creams on hydration, transepidermal water loss and skin pH were assessed.

RESULTS

The obtained results revealed that grape stems extract and its ferments are a rich source of phenolic compounds and show antioxidant activity, with the highest values observed for extracts on the 20th day of fermentation. Furthermore, the addition of the extract, as well as ferment, to the cream has a positive effect on skin hydration and reduces transepidermal water loss.

CONCLUSION

These results suggest that grape stem extracts are a prospective source of active compounds that may be valuable ingredients for the cosmetic industry. Unfermented and fermented extracts can be used in moisturizing cosmetic formulations and also to complement the treatment of dry and sensitive skin.

Solid-in-oil nanodispersion as a novel topical transdermal delivery to enhance stability and skin permeation and retention of hydrophilic drugs l-ascorbic acid

l-ascorbic acid （Vitamin C, VC） is the most abundant antioxidant in human skin. But its poor penetration into the skin and unstability limit the application. The aim of the study was to promote the topical skin permeation and retention of VC, increase the stability as well as effectiveness by a novel solid in oil nanodispersion. In the nanodispersions system, nano-sized particles of hydrophilic molecules are dispersed in an oil vehicle with the assistance of hydrophobic surfactants. The optimized formula composed of O170 and S1570 (12.5:1, w/w) showed high EE% of 98% and good stability. FTIR analysis confirmed that there may be hydrogen bond between VC and surfactants. The results of DSC, and XRD revealed that the drug was successfully encapsulated in the surfactants, which maintained the stability of drug. By analyzing and fitting the release data in vitro, the drug release mechanism of SONDs was predicted as a multi-dynamic model. Skin permeation of VC was improved 3.43-fold for SONDs compared with VC aqueous solution, highlighting that the lipophilicity and nano size of the carrier more easily penetrated into the skin. Finally, the photoaging study revealed that topical application of VC-SONDs provided the highest skin protection compared UV and VC aqueous solution treated group which was evident by the normal thick epidermal morphology, no obvious melanocytes and the densely arranged dermal elastic fibers. These results demonstrated that the solid-in-oil nanodispersions may be a potential transdermal delivery system for hydrophilic bioactive ingredients.

Antibiotics-Free Compounds for Chronic Wound Healing

The rapid rise in the health burden associated with chronic wounds is of great concern to policymakers, academia, and industry. This could be attributed to the devastating implications of this condition, and specifically, chronic wounds which have been linked to invasive microbial infections affecting patients' quality of life. Unfortunately, antibiotics are not always helpful due to their poor penetration of bacterial biofilms and the emergence of antimicrobial resistance. Hence, there is an urgent need to explore antibiotics-free compounds/formulations with proven or potential antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound healing efficacy. The mechanism of antibiotics-free compounds is thought to include the disruption of the bacteria cell structure, preventing cell division, membrane porins, motility, and the formation of a biofilm. Furthermore, some of these compounds foster tissue regeneration by modulating growth factor expression. In this review article, the focus is placed on a number of non-antibiotic compounds possessing some of the aforementioned pharmacological and physiological activities. Specific interest is given to Aloevera, curcumin, cinnamaldehyde, polyhexanide, retinoids, ascorbate, tocochromanols, and chitosan. These compounds (when alone or in formulation with other biologically active molecules) could be a dependable alternative in the management or prevention of chronic wounds.

Efficacy and Safety of tranexamic acid versus vitamin c after microneedling in treatment of melasma: Clinical and Dermoscopic study

BACKGROUND

Melasma is a common acquired symmetrically distributed hyperpigmented macules of sun-exposed skin. Skin microneedling acts as a transdermal delivery system that facilitates the penetration of lightening agents to deeper layers of skin.

OBJECTIVE

Clinical and dermoscopic evaluation of the efficacy and safety of topical tranexamic acid versus topical vitamin C after microneedling for melasma treatment.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

Twenty patients with facial melasma were enrolled in a split-face prospective, randomized uncontrolled study. The right side of the face was treated with topical tranexamic acid after dermapen microneedling, while the left side of the face was treated with topical vitamin C after dermapen microneedling. Sessions were done every 2 weeks for 6 sessions. The Hemi-MASI score and dermoscopic examination before and after treatment were done.

RESULTS

Hemi-MASI score was reduced after treatment on both sides of the face, besides improvement of the pigmented lesions showed by dermoscopy on both sides and improvement of the vascular component on the tranexamic acid treated side.

CONCLUSION

Topical tranexamic acid or vitamin C application after dermapen microneedling was an effective and safe technique in melasma treatment with minimal side effects, and vascular component improvement by tranexamic acid.

A review of topical vitamin C derivatives and their efficacy

Vitamin C is a popular ingredient in over-the-counter cosmeceuticals due to its many biological functions in maintaining and improving skin health by treating UV damage, improving discoloration, and boosting collagen production. Several chemically modified derivatives of vitamin C have been developed in an attempt to increase the stability, percutaneous absorption, and overall activity of this ingredient in topical formulations. The goal of this review is to evaluate the differences between vitamin C derivatives that have been designed for cosmeceutical use and their efficacy.

The anti-melanogenic effects of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid via Nrf2-mediated α-MSH inhibition in UVA-irradiated keratinocytes and autophagy induction in melanocytes

3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (EAA) is an ether-derivative of ascorbic acid, known to inhibit tyrosinase activity, and is widely used in skincare formulations. Nevertheless, the molecular mechanisms underlying the EAA's effects are poorly understood. Here, the anti-melanogenic activity of EAA was demonstrated through Nrf2-mediated α-MSH inhibition in UVA-irradiated keratinocytes (HaCaT) and autophagy induction and inhibition of α-MSH-stimulated melanogenesis in melanocytes (B16F10). EAA pretreatment increased the HaCaT cell viability but suppressed ROS-mediated p53/POMC/α-MSH pathways in UVA-irradiated cells. Further, the conditioned medium from EAA-pretreated and UVA-irradiated HaCaT cells suppressed the MITF-CREB-tyrosinase pathways leading to the inhibition of melanin synthesis in B16F10 cells. EAA treatment increased nuclear Nrf2 translocation via the p38, PKC, and ROS pathways leading to HO-1, γ-GCLC, and NQO-1 antioxidant expression in HaCaT cells. However, Nrf2 silencing reduced the EAA-mediated anti-melanogenic activity, evidenced by impaired antioxidant gene expression and uncontrolled ROS (H₂0₂) generation following UVA irradiation. In B16F10 cells, EAA-induced autophagy was shown by enhanced LC3-II levels, AVO formation, Beclin-1 upregulation, and activation of p62/SQSTM1. Further, EAA-induced anti-melanogenic activity was substantially decreased in autophagy inhibitor (3-MA) pretreated or LC3 knockdown B16F10 cells. Notably, transmission electron microscopy data showed increased melanosome-engulfing autophagosomes in EAA-treated B16F10 cells. Moreover, EAA also down-regulated MC1R, TRP-1/-2, tyrosinase expressions, and melanin synthesis by suppressing the cAMP-CREB-mediated MITF expression in B16F10 cells stimulated with α-MSH. In vivo studies on the zebrafish model further confirmed that EAA inhibited tyrosinase expression/activity and endogenous pigmentation. In conclusion, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid is an effective skin-whitening agent and could be used as a topical agent for cosmetic purposes.

Vitamin C-squalene bioconjugate promotes epidermal thickening and collagen production in human skin

Vitamin C (Vit C) benefits to human skin physiology notably by stimulating the biosynthesis of collagen. The main cutaneous collagens are types I and III, which are less synthesized with aging. Vit C is one of the main promotors of collagen formation but it poorly bypasses the epidermis stratum corneum barrier. To address this challenge, we developed a lipophilic version of Vit C for improving skin diffusion and delivery. Vit C was covalently conjugated to squalene (SQ), a natural lipid of the skin, forming a novel Vit C-SQ derivative suitable for cream formulation. Its biological activity was investigated on human whole skin explants in an ex vivo model, through histology and protein and gene expression analyses. Results were compared to Vit C coupled to the reference lipophilic compound palmitic acid, (Vit C-Palmitate). It was observed that Vit C-SQ significantly increased epidermal thickness and preferentially favored collagen III production in human skin after application for 10 days. It also promoted glycosaminoglycans production in a higher extent comparatively to Vit C-Palmitate and free Vit C. Microdissection of the explants to separate dermis and epidermis allowed to measure higher transcriptional effects either in epidermis or in dermis. Among the formulations studied, the strongest effects were observed with Vit C-SQ.

The effect of Vitamin C on melanin pigmentation - A systematic review

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is used as a treatment modality in depigmentation of hyperpigmented spots on the skin and gingiva. This systematic review discusses the studies conducted to assess the effect of Vitamin C on melanin pigmentation. The primary objective was to evaluate the effect of Vitamin C on melanin pigmentation. The secondary objective was to analyze the effect of Vitamin C administration on melanin pigmentation. An electronic database search was conducted from the following databases: PubMed, EBSCOhost, ScienceOpen, EMBASE and Google Scholar. Randomized controlled trials, experimental studies, case-control studies and cohort studies published in peer-reviewed journals in English language were included. Case reports, case series, animal model studies, in vitro studies, studies where Vitamin C was used along with other agents and unpublished research were excluded. Out of 22,580 studies, only 7 studies satisfied the selection criteria. Data extraction sheet was prepared, and the studies were analyzed. Out of the 7 studies analyzed, 1 was a randomized controlled trial and 6 were experimental studies. Vitamin C has been used widely as a depigmenting agent in dermatology. However, there are limited studies conducted on the use of Vitamin C for gingival depigmentation.

Anti-aging and brightening effects of a topical treatment containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract: A split-face, randomized controlled trial

Background

Skin aging has many manifestations such as wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and dryness. Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors, especially ultraviolet light‐induced oxidative radicals, contribute to the etiology of aging. Human skin requires both water‐ and lipid‐soluble nutrient components, including hydrophilic and lipophilic antioxidants. Vitamins C and E have important protective effects in the aging process and require exogenous supply. Raspberry leaf extracts contain botanical actives that have the potential to hydrating and moisturizing skin. Topical products with these ingredients may therefore combine to provide improved anti‐aging effects over single ingredients.

Objectives

To evaluate the anti‐aging and brightening effects of an encapsulated serum containing vitamin C (20% w/w), vitamin E, and European raspberry (Rubus idaeus) leaf cell culture extract.

Methods

Fifty female volunteers aged 30‐65 years were allocated one capsule of serum for topical application on one side of the face for 2 months, in addition to self‐use of facial skin products. Both test (treated) and contralateral (untreated) sides were dermatologically assessed after 4 and 8 weeks. Skin color (melanin index), elasticity, radiance, moisture, and water evaporation were measured by Mexameter MX18^®, Cutometer^®, Glossymeter GL200^®, Corneometer CM825^®, and Tewameter TM300^® instruments, respectively (Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH). Skin microtopography parameters, smoothness (SEsm), roughness (SEr), scaliness (SEsc), and wrinkles (SEw), were measured by Visioscan^® VC98 USB (Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH), and gross lifting effects were measured by VECTRA^® H1 (Canfield Scientific), and adverse reactions and satisfaction were also assessed.

Results

Skin color, elasticity, and radiance were significantly improved. The smoothness, scaliness, and wrinkles were also revealed significant improvement. Mild adverse reactions were tingling and tightness.

Conclusions

The vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract serum has anti‐aging and brightening effects of skin.

Therapeutic Perspective of Vitamin C and Its Derivatives

l-Ascorbic acid (ASA), vitamin C, is a ubiquitous carbohydrate-like compound that has an essential role in a number of cellular processes, such as collagen synthesis, cellular oxidation, and various hydroxylation reactions. ASA is a biomolecule of critical importance for protection of cellular components against oxidative damage caused by toxic free radicals and other reactive oxygen species (ROS) that are involved in the development of various types of chronic diseases. Vitamin C has a switchover role from being an antioxidant in physiological conditions to a prooxidant under pathologic conditions. Moreover, some l-ascorbic acid derivatives exhibit strong and selective antitumor and antiviral activity. This review emphasizes the advances on diverse and potent biological profiles of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives, and their perspective in the development of new bioactive chemical entities in the future. The work is primarily addressed at antioxidant, anticancer, and antiviral potencies of l-ascorbic acid and compounds containing its butenolide structural motif.

Optimization of the Antioxidant Potentials of Red Pitaya Peels and Its In Vitro Skin Whitening Properties

In this study, response surface methodology (RSM) was employed for the optimization of the antioxidant potentials of red pitaya peels using independent variables: temperature (45–65 °C), ethanol concentration (70–90%, v/v) and time (80–120 min) through its responses, which were DPPH scavenging activity, ferric ion reducing antioxidant power (FRAP), and beta-carotene bleaching (BCB) inhibition, respectively. In Vitro anti-tyrosinase and vitamin C content assays were carried out spectrophotometrically to determine the skin whitening efficacy of the optimized red pitaya peel extract. A gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis was employed to identify the chemical constituents present in the optimized extract. The optimized conditions were ethanol 82% (v/v) for 103 min at 56 °C with values of 75.98% for DPPH, 7.45 mM Fe2+/g dry weight for FRAP and 93.29% for BCB respectively. The in vitro anti-tyrosinase and vitamin C content evaluation of the optimized extract showed a good tyrosinase inhibition of 66.29% with IC50 of 24.06 µg/mL while the vitamin C content was 5.45 mg/g of the extract. The GC-MS analysis revealed the presence of thirty phytoconstituents with l-(+)-ascorbic acid 2,6-dihexadecanoate being the most abundant with a peak area of 14.66%. This study evidently suggests the potential of red pitaya peels to be exploited as a natural skin whitening agent in the cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical formulations.

Structural Requirements of Alkylglyceryl-l-Ascorbic Acid Derivatives for Melanogenesis Inhibitory Activity

l-Ascorbic acid has multifunctional benefits on skin aesthetics, including inhibition of melanin production, and is widely used in cosmetics. It, however, has low stability and poor skin penetration. We hypothesize that alkylglyceryl-l-ascorbic acid derivatives, highly stable vitamin C–alkylglycerol conjugates, would have similar anti-melanogenic activity with better stability and penetration. We test 28 alkylglyceryl-l-ascorbic acid derivatives (1–28) on theophylline-stimulated B16 melanoma 4A5 cells to determine if they inhibit melanogenesis and establish any structure–function relationships. Although not the most potent inhibitors, 3-O-(2,3-dihydroxypropyl)-2-O-hexyl-l-ascorbic acid (6, IC₅₀ = 81.4 µM) and 2-O-(2,3-dihydroxypropyl)-3-O-hexyl-l-ascorbic acid (20, IC₅₀ = 117 µM) are deemed the best candidate derivatives based on their inhibitory activities and low toxicities. These derivatives are also found to be more stable than l-ascorbic acid and to have favorable characteristics for skin penetration. The following structural requirements for inhibitory activity of alkylglyceryl-l-ascorbic acid derivatives are also determined: (i) alkylation of glyceryl-l-ascorbic acid is essential for inhibitory activity; (ii) the 3-O-alkyl-derivatives (2–14) exhibit stronger inhibitory activity than the corresponding 2-O-alkyl-derivatives (16–28); and (iii) derivatives with longer alkyl chains have stronger inhibitory activities. Mechanistically, our studies suggest that l-ascorbic acid derivatives exert their effects by suppressing the mRNA expression of tyrosinase and tyrosine-related protein-1.

Safety assessment, biological effects, and mechanisms of Myrica rubra fruit extract for anti-melanogenesis, anti-oxidation, and free radical scavenging abilities on melanoma cells

OBJECTIVE

Currently, the cosmetic and medical industries are paying considerable attention to solve or prevent skin damage or diseases, such as hyperpigmentation and oxidation and free radical damage. In this study, the effective compounds in Myrica rubra fruit were extracted and studied the biological effects of these M. rubra fruit extracts.

METHODS

In this study, we extracted M. rubra fruit using solutions with various ratios of water to ethanol (100:0, 50:50, 5:95) and studied the anti-melanogenesis, anti-oxidation and radical scavenging effects of these M. rubra fruit extracts on two melanoma cell lines: mouse melanoma (B16-F0) and human melanoma (A2058). The cytotoxicity, melanin synthesis, mushroom and cellular tyrosinase activities, enzyme kinetics, melanogenesis-related gene expression, melanogenesis-related protein secretion, radical DPPH scavenging activity and ROS inhibition after treatment with M. rubra fruit extracts were determined.

RESULTS

The results showed that the water extract of M. rubra fruit was less cytotoxic to the melanoma cell lines, effectively inhibited melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity and down-regulated the gene expression and protein secretion of MITF and TRP-1. In addition, the M. rubra fruit extracts also showed the abilities to scavenge DPPH free radicals and suppress ROS production. Finally, the effective compounds in the water extract were Myricetin-O-deoxyhexoside, Quercetin-O-deoxyhexoside, and Kaempferol-O-hexoside determined by LC/MS/MS assay.

CONCLUSION

Overall, the water extract of M. rubra fruit is a safe and effective melanin inhibitor and anti-oxidant and can be applied widely in the fields of cosmetics and medicine.

The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health

The primary function of the skin is to act as a barrier against insults from the environment, and its unique structure reflects this. The skin is composed of two layers: the epidermal outer layer is highly cellular and provides the barrier function, and the inner dermal layer ensures strength and elasticity and gives nutritional support to the epidermis. Normal skin contains high concentrations of vitamin C, which supports important and well-known functions, stimulating collagen synthesis and assisting in antioxidant protection against UV-induced photodamage. This knowledge is often used as a rationale for the addition of vitamin C to topical applications, but the efficacy of such treatment, as opposed to optimising dietary vitamin C intake, is poorly understood. This review discusses the potential roles for vitamin C in skin health and summarises the in vitro and in vivo research to date. We compare the efficacy of nutritional intake of vitamin C versus topical application, identify the areas where lack of evidence limits our understanding of the potential benefits of vitamin C on skin health, and suggest which skin properties are most likely to benefit from improved nutritional vitamin C intake.

Similarities of Water-soluble Vitamin Components among Non-prescription Pharmaceutical Vitamin Products Generally Available on the Domestic Market

Similarities among non-prescription pharmaceutical vitamin products generally available in community pharmacies were examined based on their vitamin components, and a chart was constructed to differentiate products to assist in appropriate product choice. In the analysis of the similarities, two hundred and seventy-six data entries on vitamin products were extracted from the database on the package inserts of the pharmaceutical products provided by the Pharmaceuticals and Medical Devices Agency, and they were reviewed for the amounts of vitamins they contained, in which the B vitamins, or vitamin B₁, B₂, B₆, B₁₂, and niacin, were considered as well as vitamins C and E. Pantothenic acid and L-Cysteine that are frequently used in combination with those vitamins are also taken into consideration. The data entries were then processed by classical multi-dimensional scaling to evaluate the inter-product similarities. As a result, it was shown that the products categorized as pharmaceutical nutrients and tonics containing vitamins (NTcV) are similar to one another, reflecting the fact that they are less characteristic regarding their vitamin components. As for the products in other categories, they were generally found to be featured for their unique content of vitamin components, and thereby, each category includes products with a wide range of variation. It was also indicated that some products categorized as vitamin B₁, B₂, and C products are less distinguishable from those categorized as NTcV. These findings will assist pharmacists to decide on an appropriate product for a customer following consultation.

Synthesis and Characterization of a New Hydroquinone Derivative: Disodium p-Phenylene Diisostearyl Diphosphate

A novel amphiphilic hydroquinone derivative having a C18 alkyl chain phosphate attached to the hydroquinone (HQ) moiety was chemically synthesized. The thermal stability, distribution between organic and aqueous phases, and in vitro skin permeability were evaluated. This HQ derivative was identified as disodium p-phenylene diisostearyl diphosphate (HQ-2P2IS) by UV, infrared, mass, and nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopies. Product HQ-2P2IS was obtained in good yield (56%), and it exhibited satisfactory stability in neutral solution, comparable to that of HQ. Its skin permeability was also higher than that of HQ. HQ-2P2IS is susceptible to enzymatic hydrolysis by tissue phosphatase, which releases HQ in the skin tissues. Thus, these characteristics indicate that the novel hydroquinone derivative presented herein, i.e., HQ-2P2IS, may serve as an effective pro-hydroquinone for skin care applications.

Vitamin C in dermatology

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant drug that can be used topically in dermatology to treat and prevent changes associated with photoageing. It can also be used for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Because it is unstable and difficult to deliver into the dermis in the optimum dosage, research is being directed to find stable compounds of Vitamin C and newer methods of delivery of Vitamin C into the dermis.

Effects of ortho-dihydroxyisoflavone derivatives from Korean fermented soybean paste on melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells and human skin equivalents

In this study we investigated the inhibitory effects and possible mechanisms of action of 8'-hydroxydaidzein and 3'-hydroxydaidzein, two ortho-dihydroxyisoflavone derivatives from Korean fermented soybean paste, on melanogenesis in B16 murine melanoma cells. The two hydroxydaidzeins reduced melanin synthesis comparably to treatment with kojic acid, a proven whitening agent, in B16 melanoma cells. Furthermore, when in vitro human skin equivalents were treated with the hydroxydaidzeins, the levels of melanogenesis were significantly reduced relative to a kojic acid control. The RT-PCR results demonstrated that depigmentation was due to transcriptional repression of several melanogenesis genes, including microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), by the hydroxydaidzeins. The immunoblotting results confirmed that diminution of MITF expression subsequently decreased expression of tyrosinase, and tyrosinase-related proteins 1 and 2. Cumulatively, these results suggest that hydroxydaidzeins would be potent attenuators of melanin synthesis as well as effective inhibitors of hyperpigmentation in human skin.

Modulation of skin pigmentation by the tetrapeptide PKEK: in vitro and in vivo evidence for skin whitening effects

Uneven skin pigmentation is a significant cosmetic concern, and the identification of topically applicable molecules to address this issue is of general interest. We report that the tetrapeptide PKEK (Pro-Lys-Glu-Lys) can exert skin whitening effects based on one in vitro and four double-blinded vehicle-controlled in vivo studies. (i) Treatment of human keratinocytes with PKEK significantly reduced UVB-stimulated mRNA expression of interleukin (IL)-6, IL-8 and TNF-α and, most importantly, proopiomelanocorticotropin (POMC), i.e. a gene encoding the pigmentation-inducing soluble mediator α- (α-MSH). (ii) PKEK treatment significantly inhibited UVB-induced upregulation of genes encoding for IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8, TNF-α as well as POMC and tyrosinase in 10 healthy volunteers pretreated with PKEK for 4 weeks once daily. (iii) In a study enrolling 39 Caucasian women, facial pigment spots significantly faded after 6 weeks when PKEK was combined with the skin whitener sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP), whereas PKEK or SAP alone led to less pronounced fading of the pigment spots. (iv) Addition of PKEK enhanced the skin whitening potency of a SAP-containing preparation if applied for 8 weeks to the back of hands of 19 Caucasians. (v) 27 Japanese women were treated on their faces twice daily with an SAP only or a PKEK+SAP-containing formulation for 8 weeks. Application of PKEK+SAP significantly reduced skin pigmentation by 26% and by 18% according to SCINEXA score. We demonstrate that PKEK has the capacity to reduce UVB-induced skin pigmentation and may be suited to serve as a skin tone-modulating agent in cosmetic products.

Ascorbic acid increases the activity and synthesis of tyrosinase in B16F10 cells through activation of p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase

Ascorbic acid, a potential antioxidant, is known to inhibit melanogenesis. However, there are conflicting findings that ascorbic acid has very low stability and acts as a pro-oxidant, eventually increasing proliferation and melanin content in melanoma cells. In the present study, we explored the effects of ascorbic acid on the activity and expression of tyrosinase and melanin pigmentation in the presence and absence of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) using B16F10 melanoma cells. The mechanism by which ascorbic acid stimulated the expression of tyrosinase was also investigated. No inhibitory effect on melanin content was observed in ascorbic acid-treated cells, regardless of the presence of α-MSH. Ascorbic acid stimulated the activity and expression of tyrosinase and increased the expression of melanogenic regulatory factors, such as tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), dihydroxyphenylalaminechrome tautomerase (TRP-2), and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). Ascorbic acid also induced phosphorylation of p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK). The inhibition of p38 MAPK pathway by SB203580 led to the suppression of tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 expression in cells treated with ascorbic acid. Combined treatment with N-acetyl-L: -cysteine and/or desferrioxamine mesylate attenuated the stimulating effect of ascorbic acid on tyrosinase activation in the cells. Collectively, ascorbic acid stimulates tyrosinase activity and expression in B16F10 cells via activation of p38 MAPK signaling and subsequent up-regulation of MITF, tyrosinase, and TRP expression.

Mechanisms of melanogenesis inhibition by propafenone

Melanogenesis is a physiological process that results in the synthesis of melanin pigments, which play a crucial protective role against skin photocarcinogenesis. The present study was conducted to determine the inhibitory effects of propafenone on melanogenesis and to elucidate the molecular events involved in the inhibition of melanogenesis by propafenone. To accomplish this, several experiments were conducted using human epidermal melanocyte cells. The melanin content and cAMP production were evaluated, and western blots for proteins involved in melanogenesis were conducted. The melanin content was significantly inhibited by propafenone in a concentration-dependent manner. To clarify the mechanism of the depigmenting property of propafenone, we examined the involvement of propafenone in cAMP signaling. In the cAMP production assay, the intracellular cAMP level was reduced by propafenone. The level of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) protein, the upstream transcription factor of tyrosinase, was also reduced by propafenone. In addition, propafenone inhibited the expression of tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2. Taken together, the results of our study show that propafenone inhibits melanogenesis by suppressing cAMP production, which is involved in the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins and suggests that propafenone may be an effective inhibitor of hyperpigmentation.

Inhibitory effects of phytoncide solution on melanin biosynthesis

To determine the component-activity relationships of phytoncide solutions on inhibitory activity in melanin biosynthesis, four types of phytoncide solution (A-type, AB-type, D-type, and G-type) were evaluated for inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis on murine B-16 melanoma cells and a human reconstituted skin model. The A-type, AB-type, D-type, and G-type of phytoncide solution treatment resulted in significant inhibition of tyrosinase activity. The amount of melanin was increased by treatment with phytoncide solutions in a concentration-dependent manner on murine B-16 melanoma cells without affecting cell growth. Furthermore, phytoncide solutions also suppressed melanin synthesis in a concentration-dependent manner on a human reconstituted skin model. These effects of A-type solution were superior to those of other solutions.

Acetoside inhibits α-MSH-induced melanin production in B16 melanoma cells by inactivation of adenyl cyclase

Objectives

The aim of the study was to determine the mechanism of the whitening effect of acteoside.

Methods

We used tyrosinase activity and melanin production stimulated in B16 melanoma cells by α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) or forskolin to measure the whitening effect of acteoside.

Key findings

Acteoside did not directly inhibit mushroom tyrosinase activity, but dose-dependently inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin production in B16 melanoma cells stimulated by 1 μmol/l α-MSH. Acteoside also reduced cyclic AMP levels in cells stimulated by 1 μmol/l α-MSH, suggesting direct inhibition of adenyl cyclase. Acteoside also inhibited productionofbothmelanin and cyclic AMP in cells stimulated by 1 μmol/l forskolin, an adenyl cyclase activator. Acteoside showed antioxidant activity in a cell-free DPPH (1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydroazyl) assay and inhibited generation of intracellular reactive oxygen species.

Conclusions

These results suggest that the whitening activity of acteoside results from inhibition of adenyl cyclase and α-MSH signalling.

Identification of quinolines that inhibit melanogenesis by altering tyrosinase family trafficking

A series of quinolines, including chloroquine and quinine, were identified as potent pigmentation inhibitors through screening a compound library in murine melanocytes. Structure-activity relationship analysis indicated that 4-substituted amino groups with a tertiary amine side chain, such as chloroquine, were associated with robust inhibitory activity. In contrast to many previously identified pigmentation inhibitors, these newly identified inhibitors had no effect on either the level or the enzymatic activity of tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin production. Rather, our results showed that these quinolines inhibited melanogenesis by disrupting the intracellular trafficking of tyrosinase-related proteins and lysosome-associated membrane protein 1 (Lamp-1). In treated melanocytes, tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 1 accumulated in Lamp-1-positive perinuclear organelles instead of melanosomes, thus preventing melanogenesis. The depigmenting abilities of chloroquine and quinine salicylate were assessed in a human skin equivalent model (MelanoDerm). Both compounds were considerably more effective than arbutin, a widely used lightening agent. Our results indicate that quinolines may be useful agents for "cosmeceutical" skin lightening and treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders.