New strategies of photoprotection

Synergistic Effect of Madecassoside and Rosmarinic Acid Against Ultraviolet B-Induced Photoaging in Human Skin Fibroblasts

Madecassoside (MD) and rosmarinic acid (RA) are well-known compounds with wound healing and antiaging effects. We demonstrated the synergistic protective activity of the MD-RA combination in Hs68 cells against ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced photoaging. The cell viabilities of MD, RA, and MD-RA combinations at various ratios (9:1, 8:2, 7:3, 6:4, 5:5, 4:6, 3:7, 2:8, and 1:9, v/v) were measured to compare their protective effects against UVB radiation. The synergistic interaction between MD and RA was confirmed using a combination index. The strongest effect of the MD-RA combination was observed at a ratio of 3:7. The combination of MD-RA 3:7 exerted a synergistic effect against UVB-induced changes in cell viability, as well as superoxide dismutase activity, reactive oxygen species, glutathione, catalase activity, and malondialdehyde levels. Moreover, the inhibitory effect of the MD-RA combination (3:7) on matrix metalloproteinases and total collagen production was higher than that of MD or RA alone. These results demonstrated that the MD-RA combination (3:7) generated a strong synergistic effect against UVB-induced photoaging in Hs68 cells. Overall, our results provide scientific evidence to support the development of a new combination therapy for skin protection against UVB-induced photoaging through the synergistic interaction between MD and RA. These natural compounds are promising options for antiaging and skin protection in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.

Uses of Polypodium leucotomos Extract in Oncodermatology

The effects of UV radiation on the skin and its damage mechanisms are well known. New modalities of exogenous photoprotection have been studied. It was demonstrated that Polypodium leucotomos extract acts as an antioxidant, photoprotectant, antimutagenic, anti-inflammatory, and immunoregulator. It is effective when taken orally and/or applied topically to support the prevention of skin cancers. It also has an important role in preventing photoaging. This review aims to report the mechanisms through which Polypodium leucotomos acts and to analyze its uses in oncodermatology with references to in vitro and in vivo studies. Additionally, alternative uses in non-neoplastic diseases, such as pigmentary disorders, photosensitivity, and atopic dermatitis, have been considered.

Isolation, characterization and anti-UVB irradiation activity of an extracellular polysaccharide produced by Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus VHPriobi O17

The purpose of this study was to isolate exopolysaccharides (EPS) from lactic acid bacteria (LAB) and evaluate EPS anti-UVB viability. Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus VHPriobi O17 with high EPS production was screened from 34 strains of LAB. The EPS (OP-2) produced by L. rhamnosus VHPriobi O17 was purified by alcohol precipitation and DEAE-μSphere anion exchange chromatography. By ion chromatography, FT-IR spectrum and gel column chromatography, EPS (OP-2) was a novel Man-like polysaccharide with the weight-averaged molecular of 84.2 kDa. The EPS (OP-2) can effectively alleviate HaCaT cells apoptosis and overproduction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) induced by UVB. The results also showed that it inhibited the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-1α, IL-6 and IL-8); and suppressed the phosphorylation cascade of JNK and p38 MAPK to reduce the expression level of active-caspase3, ultimately prevented cell apoptosis. Thus, the EPS produced by L. rhamnosus VHPriobi O17 have the potential to be used for human anti-UVB irradiation.

Novel UV filters from Pentacalia pulchella extracts with photoprotective properties and antioxidant activity

Most of the plant species found in the high mountain ecosystems of the tropics is unique and exceptional, because they have developed complex adaptations to survive in extreme environmental conditions, such as high levels of UVR and low temperatures of these ecological environments. In an exploratory study carried out on some plants of this ecosystem, we found that one of the most promising species was the Pentacalia pulchella (Kunth) Cuatrec. (Asteraceae) an endemic plant of Colombia, which grows between 2500 and 3500 m.a.s.l. Therefore, the objective of this work was to evaluate the photoprotective, antioxidant, and chemical composition of extracts from the leaves of P. pulchella. Extracts showed good absorption coefficients in UVA-UVB, high content of total phenols, with antioxidant activity comparable to that obtained with butylhydroxytoluene (BHT). Finally, the formulation labeled "7" with 10% extract presented adequate sensory characteristics for topical use, good in vitro photoprotection values in the UVA-UVB range (SPF (Sun Protection Factor): 7.3 ± 0.9, UVAPF (Ultraviolet A Protection Factor): 5.3 ± 0.6, λ_c 376), and antioxidant activity. Results obtained allow us to suggest that the extract of P. pulchella has a high potential as a source of new natural solar filters.

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

Nowadays, much attention is paid to issues such as ecology and sustainability. Many consumers choose “green cosmetics”, which are environmentally friendly creams, makeup, and beauty products, hoping that they are not harmful to health and reduce pollution. Moreover, the repeated mini-lock downs during the COVID-19 pandemic have fueled the awareness that body beauty is linked to well-being, both external and internal. As a result, consumer preferences for makeup have declined, while those for skincare products have increased. Nutricosmetics, which combines the benefits derived from food supplementation with the advantages of cosmetic treatments to improve the beauty of our body, respond to the new market demands. Food chemistry and cosmetic chemistry come together to promote both inside and outside well-being. A nutricosmetic optimizes the intake of nutritional microelements to meet the needs of the skin and skin appendages, improving their conditions and delaying aging, thus helping to protect the skin from the aging action of environmental factors. Numerous studies in the literature show a significant correlation between the adequate intake of these supplements, improved skin quality (both aesthetic and histological), and the acceleration of wound-healing. This review revised the main foods and bioactive molecules used in nutricosmetic formulations, their cosmetic effects, and the analytical techniques that allow the dosage of the active ingredients in the food.

Challenging Cosmetic Innovation: The Skin Microbiota and Probiotics Protect the Skin from UV-Induced Damage

Many studies performed in the last decade have focused on the cutaneous microbiota. It has been shown that this microbiota plays a key role in skin homeostasis. Considered as “a second barrier” to the environment, it is very important to know how it reacts to exogenous aggressions. The cosmetics industry has a started to use this microbiota as a source of natural ingredients, particularly ones that confer photoprotection against ultraviolet (UV) rays. Interestingly, it has been demonstrated that bacterial molecules can block UV rays or reverse their harmful effects. Oral probiotics containing living microorganisms have also shown promising results in restoring skin homeostasis and reversing the negative effects of UV rays. Microbial-based active sunscreen compounds have huge potential for use as next-generation photoprotection products.

Simplified modeling of E. coli mortality after genome damage induced by UV-C light exposure

UV light is a group of high-energy waves from the electromagnetic spectrum. There are three types of UV radiations: UV-A, -B and -C. UV-C light are the highest in energy, but most are retained by the ozone layer. UV-A and -B reach the earth's surface and cause damage on living organisms, being considered as mutagenic physical agents. Numerous test models are used to study UV mutagenicity; some include special lamps, cell cultures and mathematical modeling. Mercury lamps are affordable and useful sources of UV-C light due to their emission at near the maximum absorption peak of nucleic acids. E. coli cultures are widely used because they have DNA-damage and -repairing mechanisms fairly similar to humans. In here we present two simple models that describe UV-C light incidence on a genome matrix, using fundamental quantum-mechanical concepts and considering light as a particle with a discontinuous distribution. To test the accuracy of our equations, stationary phase cultures of several E. coli strains were exposed to UV-C light in 30 s-intervals. Surviving CFUs were counted and survival/mortality curves were constructed. These graphs adjusted with high goodness of fit to the regression predictions. Results were also analyzed using three main parameters: quantum yield, specific speed and time of mortality.

Effect of UVA radiation on the Nrf2 signalling pathway in human skin cells

The harmful effects of low energy UVA photons (315-400 nm) are associated with the massive production of reactive oxygen species resulting in oxidative stress. In response to oxidative damage, NF-E2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) is translocated to the nucleus and drives the expression of detoxication and antioxidant enzymes. UVA's effect on Nrf2 has been quite well characterised in dermal fibroblasts. However, there is a dearth of such information for keratinocytes. This study aimed to evaluate and compare the effect of UVA radiation on the Nrf2 pathway and oxidative stress related proteins in primary human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF), epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and human keratinocyte cell line HaCaT. NHDF were exposed to doses of 2.5-7.5 J/cm², NHEK and HaCaT to 10-20 J/cm² using a solar simulator. Effects on Nrf2 translocation were evaluated after 1, 3 and 6 h and Nrf2-controlled proteins (heme oxygenase 1 (HO-1), NAD(P)H:quinone oxidoreductase 1 (NQO1), glutathione reductase (GSR), glutathione-S-transferase (GST), interleukine-6 (IL-6), and matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-2)) after 3, 6 and 24 h. The results showed the fastest Nrf2 translocation was in UVA-irradiated HaCaT (1 h), persisting until the subsequent time interval (3 h), while in primary keratinocytes the effect of radiation was minimal. In NHDF, UVA-stimulated Nrf2 translocation was conspicuous 3 h after UVA treatment. In NHDF, most of the studied proteins (NQO1, HO-1, GSR, GSTM1 and MMP-1) showed the highest level 24 h after UVA exposure, except for MMP-2 and IL-6 which had their highest level at a shorter time incubation interval (3 h). In NHEK, NQO1, HO-1 and GST were increased 6 h after UVA exposure, GSR and MMP-2 level was slightly below or above the control level, and MMP-1 and IL-6 increased at shorter time intervals. When comparing NHEK and HaCaT, these cells displayed contrary responses in most of the Nrf2-controlled proteins. Thus, primary keratinocytes cannot be replaced with HaCaT when studying cell signalling such as the Nrf2 driven pathway and Nrf2-controlled proteins.

Enzymatically synthesized glycogen prevents ultraviolet B-induced cell damage in normal human epidermal keratinocytes

Enzymatically synthesized glycogen is a product from starch. Enzymatically synthesized glycogen has been reported to possess various health beneficial effects such as anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects. In this study, we investigated the effect of enzymatically synthesized glycogen on ultraviolet B-induced oxidative stress and apoptosis in normal human epidermal keratinocytes. Treatment with enzymatically synthesized glycogen suppressed ultraviolet B-induced reactive oxygen species, caspase-3 activity, and DNA fragmentation in normal human epidermal keratinocytes. Furthermore, enzymatically synthesized glycogen increased in the expression level of heme oxygenase-1, NAD(P)H: quinone oxidoreductase 1, and NF-E2-related factor 2, a transcriptional factor for heme oxygenase-1 and NAD(P)H: quinone oxidoreductase 1. Although enzymatically synthesized glycogen did not increase in its mRNA expression level of NF-E2-related factor 2, enzymatically synthesized glycogen retained its protein degradation. Knockdown of heme oxygenase-1 and NAD(P)H: quinone oxidoreductase 1 canceled enzymatically synthesized glycogen-suppressed reactive oxygen species accumulation in normal human epidermal keratinocytes. It is, therefore, concluded that enzymatically synthesized glycogen inhibited ultraviolet B-induced oxidative stress through increasing the expression level of heme oxygenase-1 and NAD(P)H: quinone oxidoreductase 1 through the NF-E2-related factor 2 pathway in normal human epidermal keratinocytes.

Phenolic acids: Natural versatile molecules with promising therapeutic applications

Plant phenolics are considered to be a vital human dietary component and exhibit a tremendous antioxidant activity as well as other health benefits. Epidemiology evidence indicates that a diet rich in antioxidant fruits and vegetables significantly reduces the risk of many oxidative stress related diseases viz. cancers, diabetes and cardiovascular. The number and position of hydroxyl group in a particular phenolic compound leads to the variation in their antioxidant potential. Polyphenols are the main source of dietary antioxidants, and are effortlessly absorbed in the intestine. Phenolic acids, a sub class of plant phenolics, possess phenol moiety and resonance stabilized structure which causes the H-atom donation results in antioxidant property through radical scavenging mechanism. Other mode such as radical quenching via electron donation and singlet oxygen quenching are also known for the antioxidant activity of phenolic acids. Furthermore, phenolic acids are found ubiquitously and well documented for other health protective effects like antimicrobial, anticancer, anti-inflammatory, anti-mutagenic etc. The contribution emphasize on the phenolic acids potential in drug discovery. In addition their occurrence, biosynthesis, metabolism and health effects are discussed in detail.

Anti-aging properties of Curcuma heyneana Valeton & Zipj: A scientific approach to its use in Javanese tradition

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Temu giring, the rhizome of Curcuma heyneana Valeton & Zipj (C. heyneana), is native to tropical regions, especially in Indonesia. It is traditionally used as a skin care, for cosmetic and body freshness, in Javanese and Balinese women, and has many other bioactivities such as antioxidant, anticancer and antiinflammatory.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The purpose of this study was to determine the antiaging activity of C. heyneana to prove its traditional use.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The antioxidant activity was determined using the DPPH free radical method, and anti-aging activity was examined using in vitro assays such as tyrosinase inhibitor and collagenase inhibitor. In vivo tests were performed by observing histomorphologic changes in rat skin exposed to Ultraviolet (UV) rays. The total curcuminoid contents and chromatographic profiles were determined by Thin Layer Chromatography (TLC) - densitometry.

RESULTS

In all in vitro assays, all of the extracts showed a dose-dependent manner in the final concentration range from 62.5 to 500 µg/mL for DPPH assay and 31.25 to 250 µg/mL for tyrosinase inhibition and collagenase inhibition assay. Curcuminoid (CUR), the active principle of Curcuma genus shows antioxidant, tyrosinase inhibitor and collagenase inhibitor activity greater than all C. heyneana extracts. The in vivo assay results showed that the topical application of the crude extract of C. heyneana produced significant improvement effects on the UV-induced skin structure damage. The total CUR content was correlated with the anti-aging activity of Curcuma heyneana.

CONCLUSIONS

The results show that C. heyneana contains antioxidant compounds and has potent anti-aging activity, indicating that it can be used as an anti-aging drug candidate or as a phyto-cosmeceutical.

Comparative proteomic analysis of Nostoc flagelliforme reveals the difference in adaptive mechanism in response to different ultraviolet-B radiation treatments

Nostoc flagelliforme is a pioneer organism in the desert and highly resistant to ultraviolet B (UV-B) radiation, while the involved adaptive mechanism has not been fully explored yet. To elucidate the responsive mechanism, two doses of UV-B radiation (low: 1 W/m² and high: 5 W/m²) were irradiated for 6 h and 48 h, respectively, and their effects on global metabolism in N. flagelliforme were comprehensively investigated. In this study, we used iTRAQ-based proteomic approach to explore the proteomes of N. flagelliforme, and 151, 172, 124 and 148 differentially expressed proteins were identified under low and high UV-B doses for 6 h and 48 h, respectively. Functional classification analysis showed these proteins were mainly involved in photosynthesis, amino acid metabolism, antioxidant activity and carbohydrate metabolism. Further analysis revealed that UV-B imposed restrictions on primary metabolism including photosynthesis, Calvin cycle, and amino acid metabolism, and cells started defense mechanism through repair of DNA and protein damage, increasing antioxidant activity, and accumulating extracellular polysaccharides to minimize the damage. Moreover, high UV-B dose imposed more severe restrictions and activated stronger defense mechanism compared with low dose. The results would improve the understanding of molecular mechanisms of UV-B-stress adaption in N. flagelliforme.

UV-Protective Compounds in Marine Organisms from the Southern Ocean

Solar radiation represents a key abiotic factor in the evolution of life in the oceans. In general, marine, biota-particularly in euphotic and dysphotic zones-depends directly or indirectly on light, but ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) can damage vital molecular machineries. UV-R induces the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and impairs intracellular structures and enzymatic reactions. It can also affect organismal physiologies and eventually alter trophic chains at the ecosystem level. In Antarctica, physical drivers, such as sunlight, sea-ice, seasonality and low temperature are particularly influencing as compared to other regions. The springtime ozone depletion over the Southern Ocean makes organisms be more vulnerable to UV-R. Nonetheless, Antarctic species seem to possess analogous UV photoprotection and repair mechanisms as those found in organisms from other latitudes. The lack of data on species-specific responses towards increased UV-B still limits the understanding about the ecological impact and the tolerance levels related to ozone depletion in this region. The photobiology of Antarctic biota is largely unknown, in spite of representing a highly promising reservoir in the discovery of novel cosmeceutical products. This review compiles the most relevant information on photoprotection and UV-repair processes described in organisms from the Southern Ocean, in the context of this unique marine polar environment.

Molecular docking of selected phytoconstituents with signaling molecules of Ultraviolet-B induced oxidative damage

Abstract

The signaling molecules TNF-α, AP-1, and NF-κB act to integrate multiple stress signals into a series of diverse antiproliferative responses. Disruption of these processes can promote tumor progression and chemoresistance. Naturally occurring plant derived compounds are considered as attractive candidates for cancer treatment and prevention. Phytoconstituents can control and modify various biological activities by interacting with molecules involved in concerned signaling pathways. The aim of this study was to find binding conformations between phytoconstituents and these signaling molecules responsible for multiple stress signals of UVB induced photodamage. Induced fit docking was carried out for understanding the binding interactions of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5); 3,4,5-trihydroxy benzoic acid (gallic acid); madecassic acid and hexadecanoic acid, ethyl ester (palmitic acid) with TNF-α, AP-1, and NF-κB. Favorable binding conformations between these signaling molecules and the four phytoconstituents were observed. A number of poses were generated to evaluate the binding conformations and common interacting residues between the ligands and proteins. Among them, the best ligands against TNF-α, AP-1, and NF-κB are reported. The present investigation strongly suggests the probable use of these flavonoids for the amelioration of UVB induced photodamage.

Graphical abstract

Effects of low levels of ultraviolet radiation on antioxidant mechanisms of Japanese Medaka (Oryzias latipes)

Extreme weather events like drought are expected to increase with climate change, which will increase exposure of freshwater fish to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Compared to fully grown adult fish, fish in early life stages are more susceptible to UV radiation due to the lack of well-developed pigmentation. Even though several studies have described affectation of fish health after exposure to UV radiation, most of the studies have used intensities that are only found on the surface of the earth crust or at shallow depths in water bodies, and little is known about impacts of weaker UV radiation, which can be found in deep water. This study showed effects on the antioxidant system of Japanese Medaka after 7 days of exposure to very low intensities of UV radiation, levels that can be found at deep locations in lakes and rivers. Exposure to UV radiation (UVA: 360.1 ± 18.4 μW cm^-2 for a dose of 21.6 ± 1.2 mJ cm^-2 min^-1, and UVB: 6.3 ± 0.5 μW cm^-2 for a dose of 0.38 ± 0.03 mJ cm^-2 min^-1) caused a reduction in the catalase activity (over 50%) and enhanced oxidative damage to lipids. Results of this study showed that environmentally relevant, low levels of UV radiation affect mechanisms by which fish deal with enhanced production of reactive oxygen species and oxidative damage. The results raise concerns about early life stages of fish under scenarios of increased exposure to solar light, such as in tropic regions or during summer in temperate regions.

Polyphenols and Sunburn

Polyphenols are antioxidant molecules found in many foods such as green tea, chocolate, grape seeds, and wine. Polyphenols have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antineoplastic properties. Growing evidence suggests that polyphenols may be used for the prevention of sunburns as polyphenols decrease the damaging effects of ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation on the skin. This review was conducted to examine the evidence for use of topically and orally ingested polyphenols in prevention of sunburns. The PubMed database was searched for studies that examined polyphenols and its effects on sunburns. Of the 27 studies found, 15 met the inclusion criteria. Seven studies were conducted on human subjects and eight on animals (mice and rats). Eleven studies evaluated the effects of topical polyphenols, two studies examined ingested polyphenols, and two studies examined both topical and ingested polyphenols. Polyphenol sources included the following plant origins: green tea, white tea, cocoa, Romanian propolis (RP), Calluna vulgaris (Cv), grape seeds, honeybush, and Lepidium meyenii (maca). Eight studies examined green tea. Overall, based on the studies, there is evidence that polyphenols in both oral and topical form may provide protection from UV damage and sunburn, and thus are beneficial to skin health. However, current studies are limited and further research is necessary to evaluate the efficacy, mechanism of action, and potential side effects of various forms and concentrations of polyphenols.

The Establishment of an Assay to Measure DNA Polymerase-Catalyzed Repair of UVB-Induced DNA Damage in Skin Cells and Screening of DNA Polymerase Enhancers from Medicinal Plants

An in vitro assay method was established to measure the activity of cellular DNA polymerases (Pols) in cultured normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) by modifying Pol inhibitor activity. Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation enhanced the activity of Pols, especially DNA repair-related Pols, in the cell extracts of NHEKs. The optimal ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure dose and culture time to upregulate Pols activity was 100 mJ/cm² and 4-h incubation, respectively. We screened eight extracts of medicinal plants for enhancement of UVB-exposed cellular Pols activity using NHEKs, and found that rose myrtle was the strongest Pols enhancer. A Pols’ enhancement compound was purified from an 80% ethanol extract of rose myrtle, and piceatannol was isolated by spectroscopic analysis. Induction of Pol activity involved synergy between UVB irradiation and rose myrtle extract and/or piceatannol. Both the extract and piceatannol reduced UVB-induced cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer production, and prevented UVB-induced cytotoxicity. These results indicate that rose myrtle extract and piceatannol, its component, are potential photo-protective candidates for UV-induced skin damage.

Plant-based active photoprotectants for sunscreens

Excessive exposure to the sun's radiation is the major exogenous mediator of skin damage, which accelerates skin ageing and increases the risk of developing skin cancer. Compounds with photoprotectant activity are extremely useful for decreasing the effect of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin; however, numerous sun filters, especially organic sunscreens, are allergenic. Therefore, the development of formulations containing plant extracts, which may be potentially safer, is extensively being explored. Plant-based cosmetics are commonly used to avoid skin ageing because they contain antioxidant agents that minimize free radical activity, and numerous studies have investigated the skin-protectant effects of related plant species. In addition to their antioxidant properties, plant-based cosmetics protect the skin against solar radiation because they contain polyphenols such as flavonoids and carotenoids. Therefore, this study aims to present a review of plant species commonly used in sunscreens to protect the skin against damage due to sunlight exposure.

Rosmarinic Acid Attenuates Cell Damage against UVB Radiation-Induced Oxidative Stress via Enhancing Antioxidant Effects in Human HaCaT Cells

This study was designed to investigate the cytoprotective effect of rosmarinic acid (RA) on ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced oxidative stress in HaCaT keratinocytes. RA exerted a significant cytoprotective effect by scavenging intracellular ROS induced by UVB. RA also attenuated UVB-induced oxidative macromolecular damage, including protein carbonyl content, DNA strand breaks, and the level of 8-isoprostane. Furthermore, RA increased the expression and activity of superoxide dismutase, catalase, heme oxygenase-1, and their transcription factor Nrf2, which are decreased by UVB radiation. Collectively, these data indicate that RA can provide substantial cytoprotection against the adverse effects of UVB radiation by modulating cellular antioxidant systems, and has potential to be developed as a medical agent for ROS-induced skin diseases.

In vitro antioxidant, collagenase inhibition, and in vivo anti-wrinkle effects of combined formulation containing Punica granatum, Ginkgo biloba, Ficus carica, and Morus alba fruits extract

BACKGROUND

In phytotherapy, the therapeutic potential is based on the combined action of different herbal drugs. Our objective was to evaluate the antioxidant, anti-collagenase (in vitro), and anti-wrinkle (in vivo) effect of combined formulation containing Ginkgo biloba, Punica granatum, Ficus carica, and Morus alba fruits extract.

METHODS

Antioxidant evaluation was based on the scavenging activity of free radicals (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, H2O2, and O2 (-)) and the anti-collagenase activity was based on the reduction of collagenase enzyme in vitro. In an in vivo study, 21 female subjects were examined in a placebo-controlled trail. Facial wrinkle, especially the crow's feet region of eyes, was treated with topical formulated 2% cream for 56 days and compared with the placebo.

RESULTS

In the in vitro study, the combination of fruits extract showed a higher antioxidant activity which was comparable with the positive standard (ascorbic acid, butylated hydroxyanisole, and Trolox). The data also showed a dose-dependent inhibition of collagenase. In the in vivo study, treatment with 2% formulated cream for 56 days significantly reduced the percentage of wrinkle depth, length, and area with 11.5, 10.07, and 29.55, respectively.

CONCLUSION

The combined formulation of fruit extracts showed excellent antioxidative and anti-collagenase activity as well as a significant effect on anti-wrinkle activity on human skin.

Mass spectrometry-based metabolite profiling in the mouse liver following exposure to ultraviolet B radiation

Although many studies have been performed on the effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin, only a limited number of reports have investigated these effects on non-skin tissue. This study aimed to describe the metabolite changes in the liver of hairless mice following chronic exposure to UVB radiation. We did not observe significant macroscopic changes or alterations in hepatic cholesterol and triglyceride levels in the liver of UVB-irradiated mice, compared with those for normal mice. In this study, we detected hepatic metabolite changes by UVB exposure and identified several amino acids, fatty acids, nucleosides, carbohydrates, phospholipids, lysophospholipids, and taurine-conjugated cholic acids as candidate biomarkers in response to UVB radiation in the mouse liver by using various mass spectrometry (MS)-based metabolite profiling including ultra-performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole time-of-flight (TOF)-MS, gas chromatography-TOF-MS and nanomate LTQ-MS. Glutamine exhibited the most dramatic change with a 5-fold increase in quantity. The results from altering several types of metabolites suggest that chronic UVB irradiation may impact significantly on major hepatic metabolism processes, despite the fact that the liver is not directly exposed to UVB radiation. MS-based metabolomic approach for determining regulatory hepatic metabolites following UV irradiation will provide a better understanding of the relationship between internal organs and UV light.

Tannase-converted green tea catechins and their anti-wrinkle activity in humans

BACKGROUND

This study was performed to investigate the anti-wrinkle effects of topical applications of green tea extract with high antioxidant activity by tannase treatment. Increases in gallic acid (GA), (-)-epigallocatechin (EGC), and (-)-epicatechin (EC) were observed in the green tea extract after tannase treatment.

OBJECTIVES

This study was performed to investigate the anti-wrinkle effects of topical applications of green tea extract exhibiting high antioxidant activity after tannase treatment.

METHODS

Subjects, randomly divided into two groups, received the application of either tannase-converted green tea extract (TGE) or normal green tea extract (NGE) on their crow's feet for 8 weeks. The anti-wrinkle effects were evaluated with two methods: (i) self-assessment; and (ii) average roughness of skin surface (R(a), R(z), and R(t) value) using skin replica and Skin-Visiometer SV 600.

RESULTS

The scavenging abilities of TGE against radicals were significantly higher compared to NGE. The evaluation of skin wrinkle index values after 8 weeks of treatment showed that reductions of R(a), R(z), and R(t) values in the TGE group were significantly greater than in the NGE group, which indicated that tannase treatment improved the anti-wrinkle effects of green tea extract. According to the overall ratings for wrinkle treatment by applying the formulations, most of the TGE group (63.60%) reported marked or moderate improvement in wrinkles compared with only 36.30% of the NGE group.

CONCLUSION

Tannase treatment can improve the antioxidant activity of green tea extract, conferring anti-wrinkle activities. These results suggest that TGE may have beneficial properties as an anti-wrinkle agent.

Faria T, Baracat MM, Casagrande R, Georgetti SR. Topical formulations containing Pimenta pseudocaryophyllus extract: In vitro antioxidant activity and in vivo efficacy against UV-B-induced oxidative stress

Pimenta pseudocaryophyllus is a Brazilian native plant that presents high concentrations of flavonoids and other polyphenolic compounds. Herein, we evaluated: (1) the chemical properties of P. pseudocaryophyllus ethanolic extract (PPE), (2) the in vitro antioxidant activity (AA) of PPE and of two different topical formulations (F1 and F2) containing PPE, (3) physico-chemical and functional stability, (4) in vitro release of PPE, and (5) in vivo capacity of formulations to prevent UV-B irradiation-induced skin damage. Results show that the polyphenol and flavonoid contents in PPE were 199.33 and 28.32 mg/g, respectively, and HPLC results show the presence of eugenol, tannic acid, and rutin. Evaluation of the in vitro AA of PPE demonstrated a dose-dependent effect and an IC50 of 4.75 μg/mL in 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 3.0 μg/mL in 2,2'-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) assays. The ferric-reducing antioxidant power (FRAP assay) was 0.046 μmol/L trolox equivalent/μg/mL of extract. Among the AA, only the capacity to scavenge DPPH radical of PPE was maintained in F1 and F2. In addition, both formulations satisfactorily released the extract. The evaluation of the functional stability of F1 and F2 did not demonstrate loss of activity by storage at room temperature and at 4°C/6 months. In irradiated mice, treatment with F1 and F2 added with PPE significantly increased the capacity to scavenge ABTS radical and the FRAP of skin compared to vehicle-treated mice. In conclusion, the present results suggest that formulations containing PPE may be a topical source of antioxidant compounds to decrease oxidative damages of the skin.

Chafuroside B, an Oolong tea polyphenol, ameliorates UVB-induced DNA damage and generation of photo-immunosuppression related mediators in human keratinocytes

Chafuroside B was recently isolated as a new polyphenolic constituent of oolong tea leaves. However, the effects of chafuroside B on skin function have not been examined. In this study, we investigated the protective effects of chafuroside B against UVB-induced DNA damage, apoptosis and generation of photo-immunosuppression related mediators in cultured normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK). Chafuroside B at 1 µM attenuated both UVB-induced apoptosis, evaluated in terms of caspase-3/7 activity, and UVB-induced DNA damage, evaluated in terms of formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD), in NHEK exposed to UVB (20 mJ/cm²). In addition, chafuroside B at 0.3 or 1 µM suppressed the UVB-induced production of interleukin (IL)-10, tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α, and prostaglandin E2 (PGE₂), as determined by ELISA, and conversely enhanced IL-12 mRNA expression and production, as measured by RT-PCR and ELISA. Further, chafuroside B at 1 µM also suppressed UVB-induced expression of receptor activator of nuclear factor κB ligand (RANKL) mRNA. These results indicate that chafuroside B promotes repair of UVB-induced DNA damage and ameliorates the generation of IL-10, TNF-α, PGE₂, and RANKL, all of which are UVB-induced immunosuppression related mediators. These effects of chafuroside B may be mediated at least in part through induction of IL-12 synthesis in human keratinocytes. Because chafuroside B might have practical value as a photoprotective agent, a further study of the in vivo effects of chafuroside B seems warranted.

Antagonizing effects and mechanisms of afzelin against UVB-induced cell damage

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces DNA damage, oxidative stress, and inflammatory processes in human keratinocytes, resulting in skin inflammation, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis. Adequate protection of skin against the harmful effects of UV irradiation is essential. Therefore, in this study, we investigated the protective effects of afzelin, one of the flavonoids, against UV irradiation in human keratinocytes and epidermal equivalent models. Spectrophotometric measurements revealed that the afzelin extinction maxima were in the UVB and UVA range, and UV transmission below 376 nm was <10%, indicating UV-absorbing activity of afzelin. In the phototoxicity assay using the 3T3 NRU phototoxicity test (3T3-NRU-PT), afzelin presented a tendency to no phototoxic potential. In addition, in order to investigate cellular functions of afzelin itself, cells were treated with afzelin after UVB irradiation. In human keratinocyte, afzelin effectively inhibited the UVB-mediated increase in lipid peroxidation and the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers. Afzelin also inhibited UVB-induced cell death in human keratinocytes by inhibiting intrinsic apoptotic signaling. Furthermore, afzelin showed inhibitory effects on UVB-induced release of pro-inflammatory mediators such as interleukin-6, tumor necrosis factor-α, and prostaglandin-E2 in human keratinocytes by interfering with the p38 kinase pathway. Using an epidermal equivalent model exposed to UVB radiation, anti-apoptotic activity of afzelin was also confirmed together with a photoprotective effect at the morphological level. Taken together, our results suggest that afzelin has several cellular activities such as DNA-protective, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory as well as UV-absorbing activity and may protect human skin from UVB-induced damage by a combination of UV-absorbing and cellular activities.

Protective effect of a Phyllanthus orbicularis aqueous extract against UVB light in human cells

CONTEXT

One approach to protect human skin against the dangerous effects of solar ultraviolet (UV) irradiation is the use of natural products, such as photoprotectors. Phyllanthus orbicularis Kunth (Euphorbiaceae) is a Cuban endemic plant used in popular medicine. Its antigenotoxicity effect against some harmful agents has been investigated. However, the effect in ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated human cells has not been previously assessed.

OBJECTIVE

The protective effect of a P. orbicularis extract against UVB light-induced damage in human cells was evaluated.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

DNA repair proficient (MRC5-SV) and deficient (XP4PA, complementation group XPC) cell-lines were used. Damaging effects of UVB light were evaluated by clonogenic assay and apoptosis induction by flow cytometry techniques. The extent of DNA repair itself was determined by the removal of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs). The CPDs were detected and quantified by slot-blot assay.

RESULTS

Treatment of UVB-irradiated MRC5-SV cells with P. orbicularis extract increased the percentage of colony-forming cells from 36.03 ± 3.59 and 4.42 ± 1.45 to 53.14 ± 8.8 and 14.52 ± 1.97, for 400 and 600 J/m(2), respectively. A decrease in apoptotic cell population was observed in cells maintained within the extract. The P. orbicularis extract enhanced the removal of CPD from genomic DNA. The CPDs remaining were found to be about 27.7 and 1.1%, while with plant extract, treatment these values decreased to 16.1 and 0.2%, for 3 and 24 h, respectively.

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

P. orbicularis aqueous extract protects human cells against UVB damage. This protective effect is through the modulation of DNA repair effectiveness.

Kanglaite attenuates UVB-induced down-regulation of aquaporin-3 in cultured human skin keratinocytes

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation plays an important role in the pathogenesis of skin photoaging. Depending on the wavelength of UV, the epidermis is affected primarily by UVB. One major characteristic of photoaging is the dehydration of the skin. Membrane-inserted water channels (aquaporins) are involved in this process. In this study we demonstrated that UVB radiation induced aquaporin-3 (AQP3) down-regulation in cultured human skin keratinocytes. Kanglaite is a mixture consisting of extractions of Coix Seed, which is an effective anti-neoplastic agent and can inhibit the activities of protein kinase C and NF-κB. We demonstrated that Kanglaite inhibited UVB-induced AQP3 down-regulation of cultured human skin keratinocytes. Our findings provide a potential new agent for anti-photoaging. The related molecular mechanisms remain to be further elucidated.

Neuroprotective effects of a new skin care formulation following ultraviolet exposure

BACKGROUND

Chronic ultraviolet (UV) exposure is a major environmental factor involved in extrinsic skin ageing (photo-ageing). Skin nerve fibres are significantly reduced in number following UV irradiation and new skincare compounds with neuroprotective effects are thus highly warranted.

OBJECTIVES

We developed a new skincare formulation from a plant extract and evaluated its neuroprotective effects of ex vivo UV irradiation.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The new skincare emulsion was formulated from Echinacea purpurea extract and was enriched with antioxidants (patent no. PROV020110087075). Skin samples were obtained from 20 healthy patients enrolled for plastic surgery and were immediately treated with placebo (SPF 15) or test emulsions. Skin samples were exposed to UVA and UVB for 60 min. Nerve fibres were identified by immunofluorescence using a monoclonal antibody, anti-human CD56. Cell damage was quantified by image analysis.

RESULTS

UVA and UVB significantly reduced (40-60%) densities of nerve endings in control samples treated with placebo (P < 0.001). Samples treated with test emulsion completely blocked UV-related effects on skin nerve endings. These neuroprotective effects were similarly observed regardless of age or tissue analysed (breast versus abdomen).

CONCLUSIONS

Our new skincare formulation obtained from E. purpurea provides important neuroprotective effects of UV irradiation and could be used together with SPFs to prevent chronic deleterious effects of solar exposure.

Acute exposure to solar simulated ultraviolet radiation affects oxidative stress-related biomarkers in skin, liver and blood of hairless mice

The ultraviolet (UV) region of solar radiation is a critical factor in the initiation and development of a number of skin diseases. However, it is not only skin which is directly exposed to solar light that is affected by UV radiation, through low molecular weight mediators, generated upon irradiation, "non-skin" tissues can also be affected. The aim of this study was to examine in detail, the acute effects of UVA and UVB wavebands on hairless mice. Female SKH-1 hairless mice were exposed to a single dose of UVB (200, 800 mJ/cm(2)) or UVA (10, 20 J/cm(2)) using a solar simulator. The effects on haematological parameters, activity and/or expression of antioxidant enzymes, level of glutathione (GSH), markers of oxidative damage (lipid peroxidation and carbonylated proteins) were analysed in erythrocytes, plasma, liver and whole skin homogenates. No macroscopic changes were observed either 4 or 24 h after UVA/UVB exposure. The blood count showed a significant increase in leukocyte number and reduction of platelets 4 h following UVA and UVB irradiation, which disappeared 24 h after irradiation except for the higher UVA dose. Changes in oxidative stress-related parameters, particularly activity of catalase (CAT) and superoxide dismutase (SOD) and level of GSH and lipid peroxidation products, were found in skin, erythrocytes and liver. The expression of several enzymes (CAT, SOD, glutathione transferase (GST), nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (phosphate) quinone oxidoreductase (NQO1) and hem oxygenase-1 (HO-1)) in skin was affected following UVA and UVB radiation. Increase in carbonylated proteins was found in plasma and skin samples.

Quercetin inhibits UV irradiation-induced inflammatory cytokine production in primary human keratinocytes by suppressing NF-κB pathway

BACKGROUND

Topical flavonoids, such as quercetin, have been shown to reduce ultraviolet (UV) irradiation-mediated skin damage. However, the mechanisms and signaling pathways involved in this protective effect are not clear. UV irradiation leads to activation of two major signaling pathways, namely nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) and activator protein-1 (AP-1) pathways. Activation of NF-κB pathway by UV irradiation stimulates inflammatory cytokine expression, whereas activation of AP-1 pathway by UV irradiation promotes matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) production. Both pathways contribute to UV irradiation-induced skin damage, such as photoaging and skin tumor formation.

OBJECTIVE

To elucidate the underlying mechanism, we examined the effect of quercetin on UV irradiation induced activation of NF-κB and AP-1 pathways.

METHODS

Primary human keratinocytes, the major skin cell type subjected to physiological solar UV irradiation, were used to study the effects of quercetin on UV irradiation-induced signal transduction pathways.

RESULTS

Quercetin decreased UV irradiation-induced NF-κB DNA-binding by 80%. Consequently, quercetin suppressed UV irradiation-induced expression of inflammatory cytokines IL-1β (∼60%), IL-6 (∼80%), IL-8 (∼76%) and TNF-α (∼69%). In contrast, quercetin had no effect on UV irradiation activation of three MAP kinases, ERK, JNK, or p38. Accordingly, induction of AP-1 target genes such as MMP-1 and MMP-3 by UV irradiation was not suppressed by quercetin.

CONCLUSION

Our data indicate that the ability of quercetin to block UV irradiation-induced skin inflammation is mediated, at least in part, by its inhibitory effect on NF-κB activation and inflammatory cytokine production.

Influence of the photostabilizer in the photoprotective effects of a formulation containing UV-filters and vitamin A

Vitamin A palmitate has been used in cosmetics; however, studies report that this substance shows photoreactivity that can lead to loss of safety and efficacy. On the other hand, photostabilizers have been used to increase sunscreen photostability and consequently their safety and effectiveness. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on the photoprotective effects of a cosmetic formulation containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate. The formulation containing UV-filters was supplemented with vitamin A palmitate and the photostabilizers diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN), bumetrizole and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC). Hairless mice were treated daily by topical applications and irradiated (UVA/B). Erythema index, transepidermal water loss, histological/histometric analysis and number of sunburn cells (SBC) were evaluated. The results showed that all formulations protected from UV-induced enhancement of erythema and SBC but there was no difference among them. The formulation with no stabilizers reduced viable epidermis thickness due to atrophy induced by UV radiation. Thus, it can be concluded that the presence of photostabilizers influenced the effects of formulations containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate, which could be seen by histological and histometric analysis. Furthermore, the formulations containing the stabilizers DEHN and BTDC showed better protective effects on hairless mice skin.

Solar radiation induced skin damage: review of protective and preventive options

PURPOSE

Solar energy has a number of short- and long-term detrimental effects on skin that can result in several skin disorders. The aim of this review is to summarise current knowledge on endogenous systems within the skin for protection from solar radiation and present research findings to date, on the exogenous options for such skin photoprotection.

RESULTS

Endogenous systems for protection from solar radiation include melanin synthesis, epidermal thickening and an antioxidant network. Existing lesions are eliminated via repair mechanisms. Cells with irreparable damage undergo apoptosis. Excessive and chronic sun exposure however can overwhelm these mechanisms leading to photoaging and the development of cutaneous malignancies. Therefore exogenous means are a necessity. Exogenous protection includes sun avoidance, use of photoprotective clothing and sufficient application of broad-spectrum sunscreens as presently the best way to protect the skin. However other strategies that may enhance currently used means of protection are being investigated. These are often based on the endogenous protective response to solar light such as compounds that stimulate pigmentation, antioxidant enzymes, DNA repair enzymes, non-enzymatic antioxidants.

CONCLUSION

More research is needed to confirm the effectiveness of new alternatives to photoprotection such as use of DNA repair and antioxidant enzymes and plant polyphenols and to find an efficient way for their delivery to the skin. New approaches to the prevention of skin damage are important especially for specific groups of people such as (young) children, photosensitive people and patients on immunosuppressive therapy. Changes in public awareness on the subject too must be made.

Prunella vulgaris extract and rosmarinic acid prevent UVB-induced DNA damage and oxidative stress in HaCaT keratinocytes

Solar radiation is a very important exogenous factor in skin pathogenesis and can lead to the development of a number of skin disorders. UVB irradiation is known to induce oxidative stress, inflammation and especially DNA lesions in exposed cells. It is important, therefore, to identify agents that can offer protection against UVB-caused skin damage. Natural compounds have been studied for their possible ability to control/modulate various lifestyle-related diseases. The application of plant compounds/extracts with screening, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities may also successfully protect the skin against UV-caused injury. We assessed the potency of Prunella vulgaris extract (PVE) and its main phenolic acid component, rosmarinic acid (RA), to suppress UVB-induced (295-315 nm) alterations to human keratinocytes HaCaT using a solar simulator. Pre- and post-treatment of HaCaT cells with PVE (5-50 mg/l) and RA (0.18-1.8 mg/l) reduced breakage together with the apoptotic process. PVE and RA also significantly eliminated ROS production and diminished IL-6 release. Taken together, both PVE and RA prevent UVB-caused injury to keratinocytes. However their efficacy needs to be demonstrated in vivo.

Lonicera caerulea and Vaccinium myrtillus fruit polyphenols protect HaCaT keratinocytes against UVB-induced phototoxic stress and DNA damage

BACKGROUND

Sunlight is a very potent environmental factor in skin pathogenesis and can induce skin cancer. UVB irradiation is known to cause oxidative stress, inflammation and especially DNA damage. Topical application of agents with UV absorbing, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities is a successful strategy in the protection of the skin against UV-caused damage.

OBJECTIVE

To examine the ability of the phenolic fraction of Lonicera caerulea and Vaccinum myrtillus fruits to moderate UVB-induced damage.

METHODS

HaCaT keratinocytes, a well-established in vitro system for investigations on UV radiation induced cell damage, were used to assess the effects of pre- and post-treatment with L. caerulea (LCE) and V. myrtillus (VME) phenolic fractions (5-50 mg/l) on keratinocyte damage induced by a solar simulator (295-315 nm).

RESULTS

In this study, a model of UVB-induced damage to HaCaT was established. LCE and VME efficiently reduced the extent of DNA breakage (especially at concentrations of 25 and 10 mg/l) together with caspase-3 and -9 activity and DNA laddering induced by UVB (100 or 200 mJ/cm(2)). LCE and VME significantly decreased RONS generation and partially diminished IL-6 expression. LCE pre-treatment also prevented keratinocytes proliferation.

CONCLUSION

The results suggest that the phenolic fraction of L. caerulea and V. myrtillus fruits suppress UVB-caused injury to keratinocytes. These results now need to be demonstrated in vivo.