Assessment of the photo-degradation of UV-filters and radical-induced peroxidation in cosmetic sunscreen formulations

The Impact of Lignin Biopolymer Sources, Isolation, and Size Reduction from the Macro- to Nanoscale on the Performances of Next-Generation Sunscreen

In recent years, concerns about the harmful effects of synthetic UV filters on the environment have highlighted the need for natural sun blockers. Lignin, the most abundant aromatic renewable biopolymer on Earth, is a promising candidate for next-generation sunscreen due to its inherent UV absorbance and its green, biodegradable, and biocompatible properties. Lignin's limitations, such as its dark color and poor dispersity, can be overcome by reducing particle size to the nanoscale, enhancing UV protection and formulation. In this study, 100-200 nm lignin nanoparticles (LNPs) were prepared from various biomass by-products (hardwood, softwood, and herbaceous material) using an eco-friendly anti-solvent precipitation method. Pure lignin macroparticles (LMPs) were extracted from beech, spruce, and wheat straw using an ethanol-organosolv treatment and compared with sulfur-rich kraft lignin (KL). Sunscreen lotions made from these LMPs and LNPs at various concentrations demonstrated novel UV-shielding properties based on biomass source and particle size. The results showed that transitioning from the macro- to nanoscale increased the sun protection factor (SPF) by at least 2.5 times, with the best results improving the SPF from 7.5 to 42 for wheat straw LMPs and LNPs at 5 wt%. This study underscores lignin's potential in developing high-quality green sunscreens, aligning with green chemistry principles.

Photoprotective efficacy of Sunset Yellow via inhibition of type-I and type-II pathway under exposure of sunlight

Exposure to phototoxicants and photosensitizers can result in the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), leading to oxidative stress, DNA damage, and various skin-related issues such as aging, allergies, and cancer. While several photo-protectants offer defense against ultraviolet radiation (UV-R), their effectiveness is often limited by photo-instability. Sunset Yellow (SY), an FDA-approved food dye, possesses significant UV-R and visible light absorption properties. However, its photoprotective potential has remained unexplored. Our investigation reveals that SY exhibits remarkable photostability for up to 8 h under both UV-R and sunlight. Notably, SY demonstrates the ability to quench ROS, including singlet oxygen (1O2), superoxide radicals (O 2 · - $$ {\mathrm{O}}_2^{\cdotp -} $$ ), and hydroxyl radicals (·OH) induced by rose bengal, riboflavin and levofloxacin, respectively. Moreover, SY proves effective in protecting against the apoptotic and necrotic cell death induced by the phototoxicant chlorpromazine (CPZ) in HaCaT cells. Further, it was observed that SY imparts photoprotection by inhibiting intracellular ROS generation and calcium release. Genotoxicity evaluation provides additional evidence supporting SY's photoprotective effects against CPZ-induced DNA damage. In conclusion, these findings underscore the potential of SY as a promising photoprotective agent against the toxic hazards induced by phototoxicants, suggesting its prospective application in the formulation of broad-spectrum sunscreens.

Substantial Confinement of Crystal Growth of Organic Crystalline Materials in Metal-Organic Membrane Microshells

This study proposes a robust microshell encapsulation system in which a metal-organic membrane (MOM), consisting of phytic acids (PAs) and metal ions, intrinsically prevents the molecular crystal growth of organic crystalline materials (OCMs). To develop this system, OCM-containing oil-in-water (O/W) Pickering emulsions were enveloped with the MOM, in which anionic pulp cellulose nanofiber (PCNF) primers electrostatically captured zinc ions at the O/W interface and chelated with PA, thus producing the MOM with a controlled shell thickness at the micron scale. We ascertained that the MOM formation fills and covers ∼75% of the surface pore size of PCNF films, which enhances the interfacial modulus by 2 orders of magnitude compared to that when treated with bare PCNFs. Through a feasibility test using a series of common OCMs, including ethylhexyl triazone, avobenzone, and ceramide, we demonstrated the excellent ability of our MOM microshell system to stably encapsulate OCMs while retaining their original molecular structures over time. These findings indicate that our MOM-reinforced microshell technology can be applied as a platform to substantially confine the crystal growth of various types of OCMs.

Photochemically Inert Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen by Metal-Phenolic Network Coatings of Titanium Oxide Nanoparticles

Titanium dioxide (TiO2) nanoparticles are extensively used as a sunscreen filter due to their long-active ultraviolet (UV)-blocking performance. However, their practical use is being challenged by high photochemical activities and limited absorption spectrum. Current solutions include the coating of TiO2 with synthetic polymers and formulating a sunscreen product with additional organic UV filters. Unfortunately, these approaches are no longer considered effective because of recent environmental and public health issues. Herein, TiO2-metal-phenolic network hybrid nanoparticles (TiO2-MPN NPs) are developed as the sole active ingredient for sunscreen products through photochemical suppression and absorption spectrum widening. The MPNs are generated by the complexation of tannic acid with multivalent metal ions, forming a robust coating shell. The TiO2-MPN hybridization extends the absorption region to the high-energy-visible (HEV) light range via a new ligand-to-metal charge transfer photoexcitation pathway, boosting both the sun protection factor and ultraviolet-A protection factor about 4-fold. The TiO2-MPN NPs suppressed the photoinduced reactive oxygen species by 99.9% for 6 h under simulated solar irradiation. Accordingly, they substantially alleviated UV- and HEV-induced cytotoxicity of fibroblasts. This work outlines a new tactic for the eco-friendly and biocompatible design of sunscreen agents by selectively inhibiting the photocatalytic activities of semiconductor nanoparticles while broadening their optical spectrum.

Facile preparation of cellulose/lignosulfonate derivatives composite films with high UV-shielding and gas barrier properties

Herein, a serial of full cellulose and lignosulfonate derivatives (LS), including sodium lignosulfonate (LSS), calcium lignosulfonate (LSC), lignosulfonic acid (LSA), composite films were generated through dissolving cellulose in reversible carbon dioxide (CO₂) ionic liquids solvent system (TMG/EG/DMSO/CO₂ solvent system), followed by a facile solution-gelation transition and absorption strategy. The findings indicated that LS aggregated and embedded inside the cellulose matrix via H-bond interaction. The cellulose/LS derivatives composite films showed good mechanical properties which the tensile strength reaches the maximum value of 94.7 MPa in MCC3LSS film. While for the MCC1LSS film, the breaking strain increases to 11.6 %. The outstanding UV shielding effect and high transmittance in the visible region of composite films were also achieved and the shielding performance of the whole UV region (200-400 nm) tended to 100 % for MCC5LSS film. In addition, thiol-ene click reaction was selected as model reaction to verify the UV-shielding performance. It was also found that the oxygen and water vapor barrier performances of composite films were evidently associated with the intense H-bond interaction and tortuous path effect. The OP and WVP of MCC5LSS film were 0 and 6 × 10^-3 g·μm/m²·day·kPa, respectively. These outstanding properties make them with great potential for packaging field.

Chitosan-coated mesoporous silica particles as a plastic-free platform for photochemical suppression and stabilization of organic ultraviolet filters

Photochemical instability and reactivity of organic ultraviolet (UV) filters not only degrade the performance of sunscreen formulations but also generate toxic photodegradation products and reactive oxygen species (ROS). Although the encapsulation of organic UV filters into synthetic polymer particles has been widely investigated, synthetic plastics were recently banned for personal care and cosmetic products due to marine and coastal pollution issues. Here we present a plastic-free, photochemically stable and inactive UV filter platform based on chitosan-coated mesoporous silica microparticles, denoted 'mSOCPs', incorporating octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) as a sunscreen agent. Sunlight induced the degradation of ∼80% free OMC in artificial sweat in 1 h at room temperature, while only 20% of OMC degraded for 3 h when encapsulated within mSOCPs. Moreover, mSOCPs efficiently suppressed the photochemical generation of ROS by about 99% through the combined effects of the mesoporous silica structure and chitosan coating. Accordingly, mSOCPs substantially increased the cell viability of fibroblasts exposed to UV irradiation. This work demonstrates that the biopolymer coatings of mesoporous inorganic particles can be a promising approach to the plastic-free encapsulation of organic UV filters for suppressing their photochemical reactivity and degradation.

Effects of UV-filter Photostabilizers in the Photostability and Phototoxicity of Vitamin A Palmitate Combined with Avobenzone and Octyl Methoxycinnamate

A challenge for cosmetic and dermatologic products is to develop new high-performance and safer anti-aging products based on new compounds to enhance the stability of retinyl palmitate combined with broad-spectrum UV-filters. Consequently, the aim of this work was to evaluate the effects of three often used avobenzone photostabilizers-ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (EHMCR), tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate (TTMHP) and tris-biphenyl triazine (TBPT)-on the photostability and phototoxicity of the combination of avobenzone (AVO), octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and retinyl palmitate (RP). The photostability studies were performed by the exposure of formulations to UVA radiation. The phototoxicity was evaluated by the 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxic assay (OECD TG 432). The addition of EHMCR, TBPT, and TTMHP in the formulations, with/or without RP, improved the photostability of AVO and RP, but EHMCR was the most effective in stabilizing RP. In the phototoxicity assay, the combinations AVO-OMC containing or not RP showed phototoxic potential. EHMCR and TTMHP reduced the phototoxicity of the combination AVO-OMC, whereas EHMCR also decreased the phototoxicity of the combination containing RP. Therefore, EHMCR might be used to the photostabilization of formulations of AVO-OMC with/or not RP, while TTMHP can be added to this photounstable UV-filter combination.

Nano-Structured Lignin as Green Antioxidant and UV Shielding Ingredient for Sunscreen Applications

Green, biocompatible, and biodegradable antioxidants represent a milestone in cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications. Lignin is the most abundant polyphenol in nature, recovered as a low-cost waste from the pulp and paper industry and biorefinery. This polymer is characterized by beneficial physical and chemical properties which are improved at the nanoscale level due to the emergence of antioxidant and UV shielding activities. Here we review the use of lignin nanoparticles in cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications, focusing on sunscreen and antiaging formulations. Advances in the technology for the preparation of lignin nanoparticles are described highlighting structure activity relationships.

Insights into the stabilization of photolabile UV-absorbers in sunscreens

Sunscreens are used to protect human skin against harmful UV radiation. Today there is a trend towards high sun protection factors (SPF) and good UVA protection. Methods for the assessment of SPF and UVA protection involve irradiation of the product, and the photostability properties of the sunscreen have an influence on its performance. Sunscreens often contain more than one UV filter. Some photolabile UV absorbers may be stabilized by the presence of other photostable UV-absorbers. Stabilization can be achieved just by a certain optical density due to the presence of such UV-filter substances. However, photostabilization may also be caused by quenching mechanisms, such as singlet-singlet or triplet-triplet energy transfer. Investigation of butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate as photolabile sunscreens in the presence of either octocrylene or bis ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine showed that both mechanisms may apply. With the systems butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane plus octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate plus bis ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine the quenching mechanism appears to be predominant.

Insights and controversies on sunscreen safety

Although sunlight provides several benefits, ultraviolet (UV) radiation plays an important role in the development of various skin damages such as erythema, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis. Despite cells having endogenous defense systems, damaged DNA may not be efficiently repaired at chronic exposure. In this sense, it is necessary to use artificial defense strategies such as sunscreen formulations. UV filters should scatter, reflect, or absorb solar UV radiation in order to prevent direct or indirect DNA lesions. However, the safety of UV filters is a matter of concern due to several controversies reported in literature, such as endocrine alterations, allergies, increased oxidative stress, phototoxic events, among others. Despite these controversies, the way in which sunscreens are tested is essential to ensure safety. Sunscreen regulation includes mandatory test for phototoxicity, but photogenotoxicity testing is not recommended as a part of the standard photosafety testing program. Although available photobiological tests are still the first approach to assess photosafety, they are limited. Some existing tests do not always provide reliable results, mainly due to limitations regarding the nature of the assessed phototoxic effect, cell UV sensitivity, and the irradiation protocols. These aspects bring queries regarding the safety of sunscreen wide use and suggest the demand for the development of robust and efficient in vitro screening tests to overcome the existing limitations. In this way, Saccharomyces cerevisiae has stood out as a promising model to fill the gaps in photobiology and to complete the mandatory tests enabling a more extensive and robust photosafety assessment.

Toxicity of UV filters on marine bacteria: Combined effects with damaging solar radiation

Organic UV filters are of emerging concern due to their occurrence and persistence in coastal ecosystems. Because marine bacteria are crucial in the major biogeochemical cycles, there is an urgent need to understand to what extent these microorganisms are affected by those chemicals. This study deciphers the impact of five common sunscreen UV filters on twenty-seven marine bacteria, combining both photobiology and toxicity analysis on environmentally relevant species. Seven bacteria were sensitive to different organic UV filters at 1000 μg L^-1, including octinoxate and oxybenzone. This is the first report demonstrating inhibition of bacterial growth from 100 μg L^-1. None of the UV filters showed any toxicity at 1000 μg L^-1 on stationary phase cells, demonstrating that physiological state was found to be a key parameter in the bacterial response to UV-filters. Indeed, non-growing bacteria were resistant to UV filters whereas growing cells exhibited UV filter dependent sensitivity. Octinoxate was the most toxic chemical at 1000 μg L^-1 on growing cells. Interestingly, photobiology experiments revealed that the toxicity of octinoxate and homosalate decreased after light exposure while the other compounds were not affected. In terms of environmental risk characterization, our results revealed that the increasing use of sun blockers could have detrimental impacts on bacterioplanktonic communities in coastal areas. Our findings contribute to a better understanding of the impact of the most common UV filters on bacterial species and corroborate the importance to consider environmental parameters such as solar radiation in ecotoxicology studies.

Y2O3 decorated TiO2 nanoparticles: Enhanced UV attenuation and suppressed photocatalytic activity with promise for cosmetic and sunscreen applications

Nanoparticulate titanium dioxide (TiO₂) is widely used in cosmetic products and sunscreens. However, primarily due to their photocatalytic activity, some TiO₂ products have been shown to be cytotoxic. Thus, the aim of this study was to reduce the photoactivity and consequent cytotoxicity of TiO₂nanoparticles. As such, in this work, yttrium oxide (Y₂O₃) was deposited onto TiO₂, at 5% and 10% Y/Ti weight ratio, via a hydrothermal method. The nanocomposites produced, TiO₂@Y₂O₃ 5 and 10 wt%, were characterised to assess their physical, photochemical and toxicological properties. These materials exhibit a uniform yttria coating, enhanced UV attenuation in the 280-350 nm range and significantly reduced photoactivity compared with a pristine commercial TiO₂ sample (Degussa Aeroxide® P25). Furthermore, the comparative cytotoxicity and photo-cytotoxicity of these materials to a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT), was assessed using a colorimetric tetrazolium salt (MTS) assay. Following 24-hour incubation with cells, both Y₂O₃ loadings exhibited improved biocompatibility with HaCaT cells, compared to the pristine TiO₂ sample, under all subsequent test conditions. In conclusion, the results highlight the potential of these materials for use in products, applied topically, with sun protection in mind.

Retinoic acid grafted to hyaluronan for skin delivery: Synthesis, stability studies, and biological evaluation

All-trans retinoic acid (ATRA) was grafted to hyaluronan (HA) via esterification. The reaction was mediated by mixed anhydrides. A perfect control of the degree of substitution (0.5-7.5%) was obtained by varying the molar ratio of retinoic acid in the feed. The degree of substitution plays a significant role in the long-term stability. The photodegradation of HA-ATRA upon UVA irradiation resulted in β-ionone, β-cyclocitral and 5,6-epoxy-(E)-retinoic acid. The photostability of the conjugate had increased with the combination with morin. The chemical structure of HA-ATRA and its degradation products was elucidated using NMR spectroscopy, SEC-MALLS, and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). ATRA did not loss its biological activity after conjugation, as demonstrated by gene expression. The derivative was able to penetrate across the stratum corneum. Besides, HA-ATRA downregulated the expression of anti-inflammatory interleukins 6 and 8. HA-ATRA would be expected to be used for transdermal drug delivery or cosmetics.

Photostability of Terbinafine Under UVA Irradiation: The Effect of UV Absorbers

The photostability of drugs administered topically on unprotected skin is a complex phenomenon that could be connected with the loss of activity or, rather rarely, the occurrence of toxic degradation products. In this study, an in-depth investigation of the photostability of terbinafine, in both solutions and formulations, was conducted, taking into account the presence of UV absorbers such as TiO₂ , ZnO, avobenzone, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, octocrylene, benzophenone-1 and benzophenone-2. The clear photocatalytic degradation of terbinafine in ethanol solution was observed in the presence of TiO₂ and/or ZnO. In other cases, terbinafine was stable, with the exception of, in the presence of octocrylene. The presumed degradation products of terbinafine were identified for the first time using LC/MS/MS, and transformation pathways were proposed. In the case of a cream formulation, the percentage of initial terbinafine content was almost unchanged in the presence of the UV absorbers benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2 and 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor. In vitro cytotoxicity risk assessment of terbinafine based on photostability under UVA irradiation was evaluated using the human skin fibroblast BJ (ATCC^® CRL-2522™), and this showed no statistically significant difference in cell viability for all samples analyzed.

Glutathione as a photo-stabilizer of avobenzone: an evaluation under glass-filtered sunlight using UV-spectroscopy

Avobenzone is the most widely used UVA filter in sunscreen lotion and it is prone to degradation in the presence of sunlight/UV radiation. To overcome the photo-instability of avobenzone, various photostabilizers have been used as additives, including antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and ubiquinone. In the present study, the well known antioxidant, glutathione, was evaluated for protecting avobenzone from photodegradation in the presence of glass-filtered sunlight. The features of glutathione as a skin whitener and a radical scavenger in cells have prompted the assessment of the photostabilzing activity of glutathione on avobenzone. Glutathione significantly attenuated the glass-filtered sunlight-induced degradation of avobenzone at equimolar or higher ratios of glutathione and avobenzone. Mutational studies have been undertaken to investigate the role of the thiol group and the isopeptide bond of glutathione on its photoprotection activity towards avobenzone. The thiol group of glutathione plays a vital role in exhibiting the photoprotection activity, which was further supported by the studies on photodegradation of avobonzone in the presence of β-mercaptoethanol. The dual role of glutathione as a skin whitening agent and a photostabilizer of avobenzone may be useful for the development of multipurpose cosmetic lotions.

Photolysis study of octyl p-methoxycinnamate loaded microemulsion by molecular fluorescence and chemometric approach

Octyl p-methoxycinnamate (OMC) is one of the most widely used sunscreen agents. However, the efficiency of OMC as UV filter over time is affected due to the formation of the cis-isomer which presents a markedly lower extinction coefficient (ε_cis=12,600L mol^-1cm^-1 at 291nm) than the original trans-isomer (ε_trans=24,000L mol^-1cm^-1 at 310nm). In this work, a novel carrier for OMC based on an oil-in-water microemulsion is proposed in order to improve the photostability of this sunscreen. The formulation was composed of 29.2% (w/w) of a 3:1 mixture of ethanol (co-surfactant) and decaethylene glycol mono-dodecyl ether (surfactant), 1.5% (w/w) of oleic acid (oil phase) and 69.2% (w/w) of water. This microemulsion was prepared in a simple way, under moderate stirring at 25°C and using acceptable, biocompatible and accessible materials for topical use. OMC was incorporated in the vehicle at a final concentration of 5.0% (w/w), taking into account the maximum permitted levels established by international norms. Then, a photolysis study of the loaded formulation was performed using a continuous flow system. The direct photolysis was monitored over time by molecular fluorescence. The recorded spectra data between 370 y 490nm were analyzed by multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares algorithm. The kinetic rate constants corresponding to the photolysis of the trans-OMC were calculated from the concentration profiles, resulting in 0.0049s^-1 for the trans-OMC loaded microemulsion and 0.0131s^-1 for the trans-OMC in aqueous media. These results demonstrate a higher photostability of the trans-OMC when loaded in the proposed vehicle with respect to the free trans-OMC in aqueous media.

Photostability evaluation of five UV-filters, trans-resveratrol and beta-carotene in sunscreens

Trans-resveratrol (RES) is used in cosmetic formulations and beta-carotene (BTC) is a classical sunscreen antioxidant, but their photostability in sunscreens, a property directly correlated to performance and safety has not been addressed in the literature. This paper reports the assessment of RES and/or BTC influence on the photostability of five UV-filters (octyl methoxycinnamate - OMC, avobenzone -AVO, octocrylene - OCT, bemotrizinole - BMZ, octyltriazone - OTZ) in three different combinations after UVA exposure followed by the identification of degradation products and the assessment of photoreactivity. The evaluation of sunscreen photostability was performed by HPLC and spectrophotometric analysis, and degradation products were identified by GC-MS analysis. Components RES, BTC, OMC and AVO were significantly degraded after UV exposure (reduction of around 16% in recovery). According to HPLC analysis, all formulations presented similar photostability profiles. Eleven degradation products were identified in GC-MS analysis, among them products of RES, BTC, OMC and AVO photodegradation. All evaluated formulations were considered photoreactive, as well as the isolated compounds RES and AVO. Considering HPLC, spectrophotometric and GC-MS results, it is suggested that formulations containing BMZ were considered the most photostable. The combination RES+BTC in a sunscreen improved the photostability of AVO. The benefits of using a combination of antioxidants in sunscreens was demonstrated by showing that using RES+BTC+studied UV-filters led to more photostable formulations, which in turn implies in better safety and efficacy.

Prevention of UVA-induced oxidative damage in human dermal fibroblasts by new UV filters, assessed using a novel in vitro experimental system

BACKGROUND

UVA rays present in sunlight are able to reach the dermal skin layer generating reactive oxygen species (ROS) responsible for oxidative damage, alterations in gene expression, DNA damage, leading to cell inflammation, photo-ageing/-carcinogenesis. Sunscreens contain UV filters as active ingredients that absorb/reflect/dissipate UV radiation: their efficiency depends on their spectral profile and photostability which should then be reflected in biological protection of underlying skin.

METHODS

A set of new UV filters was synthesized, and the most photostable one was compared to BMDBM, a widely used UVA filter. Cultured human dermal fibroblasts were exposed to UVA radiation which was filtered by a base cream containing or not UV filters placed above cell culture wells. The endpoints measured were: cell viability (MTT assay), ROS generation (DCFH-DA assay), mitochondrial function (JC-1 assay), DNA integrity (Comet assay) and gene expression (MMP-1, COL1A1) by RT-qPCR.

RESULTS

The new UV filter resulted more efficient than BMDBM in preserving cell viability, mitochondrial functionality and oxidative DNA damage, despite similar inhibition levels of intracellular ROS. Moreover, expression of genes involved in dermal photoageing were positively affected by the filtering action of the tested molecules.

CONCLUSIONS

The experimental model proposed was able to validate the efficacy of the new UV filter, taking into account important cellular events related to UV-induced intracellular oxidative stress, often underestimated in the assessments of these compounds.

GENERAL SIGNIFICANCE

The model may be used to compare the actual biological protection of commercial sunscreens and suncare products aside from their SPF and UVA-PF values.