Antioxidant, anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activities of Phyllanthus emblica, Manilkara zapota and silymarin: an in vitro comparative study for anti-aging applications

Chemical Profiling and Enzyme Inhibitory Activities of Essential Oil Isolated from Pistacia khinjuk Leaves: Insights On GC-MS Analysis and Skin Aging-Relevant Enzymes

Pistacia khinjuk is a species of flowering plants belonging to family Anacardiaceae, with promising pharmacological activities like antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and antimicrobial. This study aimed to investigate the GC-MS chemical composition of essential oil isolated from Pistacia khinjuk leaves and its inhibitory properties against aging-relevant enzymes such a collagenase and elastase. The isolated oil showed predominance of β-cadinene (15.34 %), γ-amorphene (8.50 %), α-cadinol (8.14 %), τ-cadinol (7.57 %), (E)-β-caryophyllene (5.77 %), α-pinene (4.70 %), phytol (4.57 %), α-muurolene (3.30 %), (+)-epi-bicyclosesquiphellandrene (3.21 %), and cubenene (3.16 %). Further, it showed remarkable inhibitory activities against collagenase and elastase with IC50 values of 15.61±0.69 and 41.12±2.09 μg/mL, respectively compared to epigallocatechin gallate (IC50=29.52±1.3 μg/mL and 26.86±1.37 μg/mL). as a conclusion, the leaf oil is recommended for topical cosmetic preparations to retard skin aging symptoms such as wrinkles. However, the bioavailability assessment and toxicological profile should be considered in the future studies.

Bioactive Compounds and Potential Health Benefits through Cosmetic Applications of Cherry Stem Extract

Cherry stems, prized in traditional medicine for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, derive their efficacy from abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. This makes them an ideal option for addressing skin aging and diseases. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cherry stem extract for potential skincare use. To this end, the extract was first comprehensively characterized by HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS. The extract's total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant capacity, radical scavenging efficiency, and its ability to inhibit enzymes related to skin aging were determined. A total of 146 compounds were annotated in the cherry stem extract. The extract effectively fought against NO· and HOCl radicals with IC50 values of 2.32 and 5.4 mg/L. Additionally, it inhibited HYALase, collagenase, and XOD enzymes with IC50 values of 7.39, 111.92, and 10 mg/L, respectively. Based on the promising results that were obtained, the extract was subsequently gently integrated into a cosmetic gel at different concentrations and subjected to further stability evaluations. The accelerated stability was assessed through temperature ramping, heating-cooling cycles, and centrifugation, while the long-term stability was evaluated by storing the formulations under light and dark conditions for three months. The gel formulation enriched with cherry stem extract exhibited good stability and compatibility for topical application. Cherry stem extract may be a valuable ingredient for creating beneficial skincare cosmeceuticals.

Skin Anti-Aging Potential through Whitening and Wrinkle Improvement Using Fermented Oil Derived from Hermetia illucens Larvae

As the aging population increases, so has interest among emerging seniors in anti-aging ingredients that enhance functionality by incorporating fermentation with natural materials. In this study, fermentation conditions for enhancing the functionality of Hermetia illucens larvae oil (HIO) were established, and its anti-aging potential was evaluated. First, the lipase activity and amount of lipid degradation products of the fermentation strains were measured in order to select Lactobacillus gasseri and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum as the strains with high fermentation ability. A fermentation period of 28 d and a fermentation method that uses only the strain culture medium were established by evaluating the fermentation degree after fermenting HIO with the selected strains. The whitening functionality test results of fermented HIO (FHIO) showed an increase of approximately 20% in extracellular tyrosinase inhibition activity compared with HIO. Additionally, within melanocytes, there was a 12% increase in tyrosinase inhibition activity and a 26% enhancement in melanin production inhibition ability. For wrinkle-improving functionality, it was observed that, for fibroblasts, there was a 10% increase in collagen production, a 9% increase in collagenase inhibition ability, and an 8% increase in elastase inhibition ability. Therefore, FHIO was confirmed to be an effective cosmetic raw material, with high functionality for anti-aging within the senior generation. This is achieved through increased whitening and wrinkle-improving functionality.

Cosmetic application of the stem-bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K

OBJECTIVE

The Amazon has a rich biodiversity where many different plant species can be found. This diversity is an important source of bioactive substances, mainly due to the different structural components of their phytometabolites. Research for natural products is a strategy for the development of new agents in therapeutic applications, especially cosmetic applications, that have better pharmacological potential. Within this perspective, the objective of the study was to investigate the cosmetic application (anti-aging potential) of the stem-bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K - (SBEBE), popularly known as the Brazil nut tree, here called SBEBE, a noble plant species of the Amazon that is rich in selenium.

METHODS

Enzymatic, glycation, proliferation, cell-healing, collagen quantification, toxicity and genotoxicity assays were used.

RESULTS

Among the enzymes involved in the extracellular matrix of the skin, SBEBE was able to inhibit only elastase (62.67 ± 3.75) when compared to the standard sivelestat (89.04 ± 0.53), and the extract was also able to inhibit both the oxidative and the non-oxidative pathway. When cell toxicity in fibroblasts (MRC-5) and keratinocytes (HACAT) was evaluated, SBEBE did not present toxicity in 24 h of incubation. After this period, the extract showed average cytotoxicity in 48 and 72 h, but not enough to reach the concentration of 50% of MRC-5 fibroblasts. In the trypan blue assay, the extract promoted fibroblast proliferation in 24, 48 and 72 h of incubation, which was evaluated through exponential cell growth, with emphasis mainly on the lowest concentration with results higher than the standard. When the cell healing capacity was evaluated, in 48 h of exposure to fibroblast, SBEBE was able to induce a cell carpet (cell film) in the cell monolayer scratch assay.

CONCLUSIONS

SBEBE stimulated collagen production at all concentrations tested. In the alkaline comet assay, at the lowest concentration, the extract did not induce DNA damage when compared to the reference drug doxorubicin. This study proved that SBEBE extract can be considered an ally in the treatment of skin anti-ageing as a possible biotechnological, phytocosmetic product.

Protective potential of frankincense essential oil and its loaded solid lipid nanoparticles against UVB-induced photodamage in rats via MAPK and PI3K/AKT signaling pathways; A promising anti-aging therapy

Frankincense oil has gained increased popularity in skin care, yet its anti-aging effect remains unclear. The current study aimed to investigate the anti-photoaging effect of frankincense (Boswellia papyrifera (Del.) Hochst., Family Burseraceae) essential oil in an in vivo model. The oil was initially extracted by two methods: hydro-distillation (HD) and microwave-assisted hydro-distillation (MAHD). GC/MS analysis revealed the dominance of n-octyl acetate, along with other marker compounds of B. papyrifera including octanol and diterpene components (verticilla 4(20) 7, 11-triene and incensole acetate). Thereafter, preliminary investigation of the anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activities of the extracted oils revealed the superior anti-aging effect of HD-extracted oil (FO), comparable to epigallocatechin gallate. FO was subsequently formulated into solid lipid nanoparticles (FO-SLNs) via high shear homogenization to improve its solubility and skin penetration characteristics prior to in vivo testing. The optimimal formulation prepared with 0.5% FO, and 4% Tween® 80, demonstrated nanosized spherical particles with high entrapment efficiency percentage and sustained release for 8 hours. The anti-photoaging effect of FO and FO-SLNs was then evaluated in UVB-irradiated hairless rats, compared to Vitamin A palmitate as a positive standard. FO and FO-SLNs restored the antioxidant capacity (SOD and CAT) and prohibited inflammatory markers (IL6, NFκB p65) in UVB-irradiated rats via downregulation of MAPK (pERK, pJNK, and pp38) and PI3K/AKT signaling pathways, alongside upregulating TGF-β expression. Subsequently, our treatments induced Procollagen I synthesis and downregulation of MMPs (MMP1, MMP9), where FO-SLNs exhibited superior anti-photoaging effect, compared to FO and Vitamin A, highlighting the use of SLNs as a promising nanocarrier for FO. In particular, FO-SLNs revealed normal epidermal and dermal histological structures, protected against UVβ-induced epidermal thickness and dermal collagen degradation. Our results indicated the potential use of FO-SLNs as a promising topical anti-aging therapy.

Exploring Major Flavonoid Phytochemicals from Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn. as Potential Skin Anti-Aging Agents: In Silico and In Vitro Evaluations

Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn., an aquatic medicinal plant (Nelumbonaceae family), has a history of use in traditional medicine across various regions. Our previous study demonstrated the skin anti-aging potential of its stamen ethanolic extract by effectively inhibiting collagenase and tyrosinase enzymes. While the major constituents of this extract are well documented, there is a lack of research on the individual compounds' abilities to inhibit skin aging enzymes. Therefore, this study aimed to evaluate the anti-aging potential of the primary flavonoids found in N. nucifera using both in silico and in vitro approaches. Our initial step involved molecular docking to identify compounds with the potential to inhibit collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase. Among the seven flavonoids studied, kaempferol-3-O-robinobioside (Kae-3-Rob) emerged as the most promising candidate, exhibiting the highest docking scores for three skin aging-related enzymes. Subsequent enzyme-based inhibition assays confirmed that Kae-3-Rob displayed robust inhibitory activity against collagenase (58.24 ± 8.27%), elastase (26.29 ± 7.16%), and tyrosinase (69.84 ± 6.07%). Furthermore, we conducted extensive 200-ns molecular dynamics (MD) simulations, revealing the stability of the complexes formed between Kae-3-Rob and each enzyme along the MD simulation time. MM/PBSA-based binding free energy calculations indicated the considerably stronger binding affinity of Kae-3-Rob for collagenase and tyrosinase compared to elastase, which was related to the greater percentage of hydrogen bond occupations. These computational findings were consistent with the relatively high inhibitory activity of Kae-3-Rob against collagenase and tyrosinase observed in our in vitro experiment. In conclusion, the results obtained from this comprehensive study suggest that Kae-3-Rob, a key flavonoid from N. nucifera, holds significant potential as a source of bioactive compounds for anti-aging cosmeceutical and other phytopharmaceutical application.

Selection of Mexican Medicinal Plants by Identification of Potential Phytochemicals with Anti-Aging, Anti-Inflammatory, and Anti-Oxidant Properties through Network Analysis and Chemoinformatic Screening

Many natural products have been acquired from plants for their helpful properties. Medicinal plants are used for treating a variety of pathologies or symptoms. The axes of many pathological processes are inflammation, oxidative stress, and senescence. This work is focused on identifying Mexican medicinal plants with potential anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and anti-senescence effects through network analysis and chemoinformatic screening of their phytochemicals. We used computational methods to analyze drug-like phytochemicals in Mexican medicinal plants, multi-target compounds, and signaling pathways related to anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and anti-senescence mechanisms. A total of 1373 phytochemicals are found in 1025 Mexican medicinal plants, and 148 compounds showed no harmful functionalities. These compounds displayed comparable structures with reference molecules. Based on their capacity to interact with pharmacological targets, three clusters of Mexican medicinal plants have been established. Curatella americana, Ximenia americana, Malvastrum coromandelianum, and Manilkara zapota all have anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and anti-senescence effects. Plumeria rubra, Lonchocarpus yucatanensis, and Salvia polystachya contained phytochemicals with anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and anti-senescence reported activity. Lonchocarpus guatemalensis, Vallesia glabra, Erythrina oaxacana, and Erythrina sousae have drug-like phytochemicals with potential anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and anti-senescence effects. Between the drug-like phytochemicals, lonchocarpin, vallesine, and erysotrine exhibit potential anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and anti-senescence effects. For the first time, we conducted an initial virtual screening of selected Mexican medicinal plants, which was subsequently confirmed in vivo, evaluating the anti-inflammatory activity of Lonchocarpus guatemalensis Benth in mice.

Evaluation of the Biological Activity of Hydrogel with Cornus mas L. Extract and Its Potential Use in Dermatology and Cosmetology

Due to the growing popularity of herbal extract-loaded hydrogels, this study assessed the biological activity of extracts and hydrogels containing three types (water (WE), water-ethanol (EE) and water-glycerin (GE)) of Cornus mas L. (dogwood) extracts. The content of biologically active compounds in the extracts was assessed using the UPLC-DAD-MS technique. Antioxidant properties were assessed by using DPPH and ABTS radicals and measuring the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species. Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests were used to measure the cytotoxicity of the tested samples on skin cells-fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Cell migration and the anti-aging activity of the tested extracts and hydrogels were assessed. Transepidermal water loss and skin hydration after applying the hydrogels to the skin were also determined. A chromatographic analysis revealed that the extracts contained polyphenols, including gallic, caftaric, protocatechuic, chlorogenic, ellagic and p-coumaroylquinic acids, as well as iridoids, with loganic acid as the predominant component. Additionally, they contained cyanidin 3-O-galactoside, pelargonidin 3-O-glucoside and quinic acid. The obtained results show that the tested extracts and hydrogels had strong antioxidant properties and had a positive effect on the viability of skin cells in vitro. Additionally, it was shown that they stimulated the migration of these cells and had the ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase. Moreover, the tested hydrogels increased skin hydration and prevented transepidermal water loss. The obtained results indicate that the developed hydrogels may be effective delivery systems for phytochemicals contained in dogwood extracts.

The Potential of Mangifera indica L. Peel Extract to Be Revalued in Cosmetic Applications

The constant growth of the cosmetic industry, together with the scientific evidence of the beneficial properties of phytochemicals, has generated great interest in the incorporation of bioactive extracts in cosmetic formulations. This study aims to evaluate the bioactive potential of a mango peel extract for its incorporation into cosmetic formulations. For this purpose, several assays were conducted: phytochemical characterization; total phenolic content (TPC) and antioxidant potential; free-radical scavenging capacity; and skin aging-related enzyme inhibition. In addition, the extract was incorporated into a gel formulation, and a preliminary stability study was conducted where the accelerated (temperature ramp, centrifugation, and heating/cooling cycles) and long-term (storage in light and dark for three months) stability of the mango peel formulations were evaluated. The characterization results showed the annotation of 71 compounds, gallotannins being the most representative group. In addition, the mango peel extract was shown to be effective against the •NO radical with an IC50 of 7.5 mg/L and against the hyaluronidase and xanthine oxidase enzymes with IC50 of 27 mg/L and 2 mg/L, respectively. The formulations incorporating the extract were stable during the stability study. The results demonstrate that mango peel extract can be a by-product to be revalorized as a promising cosmetic ingredient.

Phytochemical composition, antioxidant, in vitro and in silico studies of active compounds of Curculigo latifolia extracts as promising elastase inhibitor

Curculigo latifolia is a plant in the Hypoxidaceae family commonly used in herbal medicine. The study objective was to evaluate the antioxidant and anti-elastase properties of C. latifolia extracts in vitro and silico as a candidate for antiaging active ingredients. This study identified secondary metabolites of the hexane (HE), ethyl acetate (EAE), and ethanol extracts (EE) from the root (R), stem (S), and leaf (L) organs by LC-ESI-MS and evaluated in vitro antioxidant and inhibitor elastase activity. An antioxidant evaluation was performed using ABTS, Beta Carotene Bleaching (BCB), and Ferric Reduction Antioxidant Power (FRAP). Evaluation of anti-elastase was carried out using elastase and followed by an in silico study of molecular docking using the target protein elastase (1B0F). Fifteen C. latifolia metabolites were identified in C. latifolia extracts, most of which were phenolic compounds. In antioxidant testing, REE, REAE, SEE, and SEAE extracts showed potent antioxidant activity based on the ABTS, BCB, and FRAP methods. In anti-elastase testing, it was found that SEE, REE, REAE, and RHE extracts gave powerful inhibition of elastase activity (in the ranges of 16.89 to 27.91 µg/mL). The in-silico study demonstrated the potential of the identified metabolites to bind to the target protein 1B0F involved in remodeling the skin aging process. This research concludes that the extracts from C. latifolia have the potential to serve as an active antiaging source.

Manilkara zapota "chicozapote" as a fruit source of health-beneficial bioactive compounds and its effects on chronic degenerative and infectious diseases, a review

Manilkara zapota "chicozapote" is an autochthonous evergreen tree from the Southern regions of Mexico, Belize, and Guatemala. Currently, it is widely distributed and extensively grown in Mexico and Southeast Asia. Traditionally, different structures of the plant have been used for medical purposes; seeds have diuretic and purgative properties, aiding in digestive complications and eliminating bladder and kidney stones. Tree bark has antidiarrheal, antipyretic, antibiotic, and astringent properties. Fruits and leaves have been used to treat cold, cough, diarrhea, indigestion, fever, hemorrhages, wounds, and ulcers. Chicozapote fruit is yellow and brown, with an oval shape and rough peel, it is an excellent source of nutrients, such as sugars, proteins, amino acids, and minerals, and is rich in phytochemical components, such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, and tannins. These bioactive compounds exert several biological activities, i.e., as an antioxidant, antidiabetic, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, cytotoxic, and anti-arthritic agents, to name a few. These beneficial properties assist in preventing chronic and degenerative diseases, such as cancer, diabetes, neurological, infectious, and cardiovascular diseases. The use of chicozapote is still limited to its fresh form, and its non-edible structures produce a lot of waste. Therefore, an alternative valorizing and preserving strategy is to use the fruit as a raw source to design functional foods and pharmacological products. Here, the nutritional and phytochemical profiles and the current view regarding methodologies and conditions, for the extraction and characterization of its bioactive compounds, are described, and focus is placed on their multiple biological effects and specific functional mechanisms.

Added-Value Compounds in Cork By-Products: Methods for Extraction, Identification, and Quantification of Compounds with Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Interest

The growing threat of climatic crisis and fossil fuel extinction has caused a boom in sustainability trends. Consumer demand for so-called eco-friendly products has been steadily increasing, built upon the foundation of environmental protection and safeguarding for future generations. A natural product that has been used for centuries is cork, resulting from the outer bark of Quercus suber L. Currently, its major application is the production of cork stoppers for the wine industry, a process that, although considered sustainable, generates by-products in the form of cork powder, cork granulates, or waste such as black condensate, among others. These residues possess constituents of interest for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, as they exhibit relevant bioactivities, such as anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant. This interesting potential brings forth the need to develop methods for their extraction, isolation, identification, and quantification. The aim of this work is to describe the potential of cork by-products for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry and to assemble the available extraction, isolation, and analytical methods applied to cork by-products, as well the biological assays. To our knowledge, this compilation has never been done, and it opens new avenues for the development of new applications for cork by-products.

Optimized multiherbal combination and in vivo anti-skin aging potential: a randomized double blind placebo controlled study

The present study aimed to optimize a multi-herbal combination exerting the greatest antioxidant property using statistical method for anti-skin aging application as well as to elucidate its in vivo safety and anti-skin aging potential. The multi-herbal combination was optimized using a two-level, full factorial approach by exploring the correlation between the concentrations (0-3%w/v) of three extracts from Centella asiatica (CA), Momordica cochinchinensis (MA), Phyllanthus emblica (EM). An anti-skin aging emulsion containing the optimized combination was then developed and evaluated for its physicochemical characteristics with its stability under storage conditions. The in vivo anti-skin aging potential of the emulsion was subsequently investigated among 60 women in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Skin hydration, elasticity and wrinkles at eye and cheek areas were measured at baseline, after 30 and 60 days of application. Before performance testing, in vivo skin irritation was evaluated using the patch test and homogeneity between groups was also statistically analyzed. According to the model describing the significant main effects of each extract and interaction effects between extracts on percent inhibition against DPPH radicals, the best multi-herbal combination consisted of 3%w/v EM and 3%w/v CA. The developed emulsion containing the combination presented smooth soft texture with good stability in terms of physical characteristics and biological property. Regarding the clinical study, no skin erythema and edema was reported among in all volunteers. After 60 days of application, significantly improved skin hydration, elasticity and wrinkles were observed in the test group. In addition, significantly reduced wrinkles were observed after 60 days in both skin areas of the test group. The anti-skin aging emulsion containing this optimized combination exhibited good safety and performance. Ultimately, this product comprises an effective anti-skin aging formulation for applications.

Anti-cancer, Anti-collagenase and Anti-elastase Potentials of Some Natural Derivatives: In vitro and in silico Studies

The anti-cancer activities of the compounds were evaluated against KYSE-150, KYSE-30, and KYSE-270 cell lines and also on investigated esophageal line HET 1 A as a standard. Modified inhibitory impact on enzymes of collagenase and elastase were used Thring and Moon methods, respectively. Among both compounds, both of them recorded impact on cancer cells being neutral against the control, both had IC50 lower than 100 µM and acted as a potential anticancer drug. The chemical activities of Skullcapflavone I and Skullcapflavone II against elastase and collagenase were investigated utilizing the molecular modeling study. IC50 values of Skullcapflavone I and Skullcapflavone II on collagenase enzyme were obtained 106.74 and 92.04 µM and for elastase enzyme were 186.70 and 123.52 µM, respectively. Anticancer effects of these compounds on KYSE 150, KYSE 30, and KYSE 270 esophageal cancer cell lines studied in this work. For Skullcapflavone I, IC50 values for these cell lines were obtained 14.25, 19.03, 25.10 µM, respectively. Also, for Skullcapflavone II were recorded 20.42, 34.17, 22.40 µM, respectively. The chemical activities of Skullcapflavone I and Skullcapflavone II against some of the expressed surface receptor proteins (CD44, EGFR, and PPARγ) in the mentioned cell lines were assessed using the molecular docking calculations. The calculations showed the possible interactions and their characteristics at an atomic level.

In Vitro and In Silico Pharmacological and Cosmeceutical Potential of Ten Essential Oils from Aromatic Medicinal Plants from the Mascarene Islands

In this study, 10 essential oils (EOs), from nine plants (Cinnamomum camphora, Curcuma longa, Citrus aurantium, Morinda citrifolia, Petroselinum crispum, Plectranthus amboinicus, Pittosporum senacia, Syzygium coriaceum, and Syzygium samarangense) were assessed for their antimicrobial, antiaging and antiproliferative properties. While only S. coriaceum, P. amboinicus (MIC: 0.50 mg/mL) and M. citrifolia (MIC: 2 mg/mL) EOs showed activity against Cutibacterium acnes, all EOs except S. samarangense EO demonstrated activity against Mycobacterium smegmatis (MIC: 0.125-0.50 mg/mL). The EOs were either fungistatic or fungicidal against one or both tested Candida species with minimum inhibitory/fungicidal concentrations of 0.016-32 mg/mL. The EOs also inhibited one or both key enzymes involved in skin aging, elastase and collagenase (IC₅₀: 89.22-459.2 µg/mL; 0.17-0.18 mg/mL, respectively). Turmerone, previously identified in the C. longa EO, showed the highest binding affinity with the enzymes (binding energy: -5.11 and -6.64 kcal/mol). Only C. aurantium leaf, C. longa, P. amboinicus, P. senacia, S. coriaceum, and S. samarangense EOs were cytotoxic to the human malignant melanoma cells, UCT-MEL1 (IC₅₀: 88.91-277.25 µg/mL). All the EOs, except M. citrifolia EO, were also cytotoxic to the human keratinocytes non-tumorigenic cells, HaCat (IC₅₀: 33.73-250.90 µg/mL). Altogether, some interesting therapeutic properties of the EOs of pharmacological/cosmeceutical interests were observed, which warrants further investigations.

The Role of Probiotics in Skin Photoaging and Related Mechanisms: A Review

Solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is the primary pathogenetic factor in skin photoaging. It can disrupt cellular homeostasis by damaging DNA, inducing an inflammatory cascade, immunosuppression, and extracellular matrix (ECM) remodeling, resulting in a variety of dermatologic conditions. The skin microbiome plays an important role in the homeostasis and maintenance of healthy skin. Emerging evidence has indicated that highly diverse gut microbiome may also have an impact on the skin health, referred to as the gut-skin axis (GSA). Oral and topical probiotics through modulating the skin microbiome and gut-skin microbial interactions could serve as potential management to prevent and treat the skin photoaging by multiple pathways including reducing oxidative stress, inhibiting ECM remodeling, inhibiting the inflammatory cascade reaction, and maintaining immune homeostasis. In this review, the effects of oral and topical probiotics in skin photoaging and related mechanisms are both described systematically and comprehensively.

Recent Advances in Herbal-Derived Products with Skin Anti-Aging Properties and Cosmetic Applications

Although aesthetic benefits are a desirable effect of the treatment of skin aging, it is also important in controlling several skin diseases, mainly in aged people. The development of new dermocosmetics has rapidly increased due to consumers' demand for non-invasive products with lower adverse effects than those currently available on the market. Natural compounds of plant origin and herbal-derived formulations have been popularized due to their various safe active products, which act through different mechanisms of action on several signaling pathways for skin aging. Based on this, the aim of the review was to identify the recent advances in herbal-derived product research, including herbal formulations and isolated compounds with skin anti-aging properties. The studies evaluated the biological effects of herbal-derived products in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies, highlighting the effects that were reported in clinical trials with available pharmacodynamics data that support their protective effects to treat, prevent, or control human skin aging. Thus, it was possible to identify that gallic and ferulic acids and herbal formulations containing Thymus vulgaris, Panax ginseng, Triticum aestivum, or Andrographis paniculata are the most promising natural products for the development of new dermocosmetics with skin anti-aging properties.

Plant polyphenols as green sunscreen ingredients: A systematic review

BACKGROUND

Excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation has harmful effects on human skin. At present, synthetic and mineral types of sunscreens used to protect against these harmful damages have been reported to cause negative health and environmental effects. The studies involving characterization and isolation of phytoconstituents from natural botanical sources are important to discover their potential beneficial effects on sunscreen development AIM: This systematic review provides specific and compiled information on the photoprotective properties of natural botanical sources for sunscreen development. The efforts in research and innovation are essential to ensure the safety and sustainability of plant-based sunscreen products.

METHODS

In this review, a total of 35 articles were selected using the Scopus database based on the inclusion and exclusion criteria RESULT: The significant correlation between total phenolic content, total flavonoid content, antioxidant activities, and sun protection factor were shown in these studies which confirmed the potential benefits of natural plants in sunscreen development.

CONCLUSIONS

In addition, natural botanical sources also exhibit excellent anti-tyrosinase, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory activities. However, the biological activities of plants were dependent on the solvents used for extraction.

Bioactivities and phenolic composition of Limonium boitardii Maire and L. cercinense Brullo & Erben (Plumbaginaceae): two Tunisian strict endemic plants

Limonium genus is traditionally used in North Africa for disease treatment and in cosmetic. This study investigates for the first time the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and enzyme inhibitory activities of two Tunisian endemic plants, L. boitardii and L. cercinense. Analysis of phenolic compounds was carried out by using RP-HPLC. Total phenolic and flavonoid contents, antioxidant activity (antiradical, reducing and total antioxidant activities), tyrosinase and α-glucosidase, collagenase inhibition activities were determined. Inhibiting of NO release in LPS-stimulated macrophages was assessed. L. cercinense exhibited strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. In the tyrosinase and α-glucosidase inhibitor activity tests, the two species were highly active, especially L. cercinense. High total phenolic and flavonoid contents were recorded in L. cercinense and myricitrin, myricetin, myricetin 3-O-β-D-galatopyranoside, luteolin 7-O-glucoside and rutin were the main phenolics in both species. The results obtained render L. boitardii and L. cercinense as valuable new natural sources for cosmetic and pharmacological applications.

In Silico Studies, Biological Activities, and Anti-human Pancreatic Cancer Potential of 6-Hydroxy-4-methylcoumarin and 2,5-Dihydroxyacetophenone as Flavonoid Compounds

Coronavirus is one of the RNA viruses with the largest genome; It is a group of viruses known to infect humans very little until the end of the 20th century, generally causing infection in animals (bird, cat, pig, mouse, horse, bat). It is the causative agent of 15-30% of seasonal lower and upper respiratory tract infections, and may rarely cause gastrointestinal and nervous system infections. We have obtained results for the collagenase and elastase enzymes were at the micromolar level. We obtained IC₅₀ results for the collagenase enzyme for 6-hydroxy-4-methylcoumarin 257.22 ± 34.07 µM and for 2,5-dihydroxyacetophenone 74.46 ± 8.61 µM. 6-Hydroxy-4-methylcoumarin and 2,5-dihydroxyacetophenone were considered good inhibitors for elastase enzyme. Additionally, these compounds significantly decreased human pancreatic cancer cell viability from low doses. In addition, 100 µM dose of all compounds caused significant reductions in human pancreatic cancer cell viability. IC₅₀ results (IC₅₀: 10-50 µM) were better than control. In the otherwords, the docking results suggest that both compounds tend to have lower efficacy on the main protease targets of SARS-CoV-2 than standard compounds, (NL-1 and NL-2). The reason for this is that the standard compounds interact strongly and more frequently with the target proteins, and the surface areas they cover on the active surface are much larger than the small ligand molecules studied.

Potential Anti-aging Components From Moringa oleifera Leaves Explored by Affinity Ultrafiltration With Multiple Drug Targets

Moringa oleifera (M. oleifera), widely used in tropical and subtropical regions, has been reported to possess good anti-aging benefits on skincare. However, the potential bioactive components responsible for its anti-aging effects, including anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activities, have not been clarified so far. In this study, M. oleifera leaf extracts were first conducted for anti-elastase and anti-collagenase activities in vitro by spectrophotometric and fluorometric assays, and the results revealed that they possessed good activities against skin aging-related enzymes. Then, multi-target bio-affinity ultrafiltration coupled to high-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (AUF-HPLC-MS) was applied to quickly screen anti-elastase, anti-collagenase, and anti-hyaluronidase ligands in M. oleifera leaf extracts. Meanwhile, 10, 8, and 14 phytochemicals were screened out as the potential anti-elastase, anti-collagenase, and anti-hyaluronidase ligands, respectively. Further confirmation of these potential bioactive components with anti-aging target enzymes was also implemented by molecule docking analysis. In conclusion, these results suggest that the M. oleifera leaves might be a very promising natural source of anti-aging agent for skincare, which can be further explored in the cosmetics and cosmeceutical industries combating aging and skin wrinkling.

Biological Evaluation of Avocado Residues as a Potential Source of Bioactive Compounds

Avocado seed and peel are the main by-products from avocado industrialisation, and account for nearly 30% of fruit weight. Although they are usually discarded, their high phenolic content has been deeply associated with several nutritional and functional benefits. Thus, for a comprehensive analytical evaluation of both semi-industrial extracts, various steps have been developed: tentative characterisation and quantification of the phenolic composition using HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS, determination of TPC and antioxidant activity by Folin–Ciocalteu, FRAP, TEAC and ORAC methods, evaluation of scavenging capacity against different ROS and measurement of the enzymatic inhibitory potential against potentially harmful enzymes. Finally, their bioactive potential was tested in a human platelet model where antiaggregatory activity was measured. Hence, 48 different compounds were identified, where flavonoids and procyanidins were the most representative groups. The higher TPC was found in avocado peel extract (190 ± 3 mg/g), which showed more antioxidant power and more capacity to decrease ROS generation than seed extract (60 ± 2 mg/g). In addition, both extracts showed enzymatic inhibition, especially against hyaluronidase, xanthine oxidase and acetylcholinesterase. Lastly, avocado peel was proven to inhibit platelet aggregation with significant results at 1, 0.75 and 0.5 mg/mL, where the extract showed reducing effects on agonists’ expression such as p-selectin or GPIIb/IIIa complex. These results demonstrate that both semi-industrial extracts—above all, avocado peel—have an interesting potential to be exploited as a natural by-product with antioxidant properties with multiple applications for the prevention of different pathologies.

Phytochemical profile, antioxidant, antiproliferative, and enzyme inhibition-docking analyses of Salvia ekimiana Celep & Doğan

Salvia ekimiana Celep & Doğan is an endemic species of Turkey. To our knowledge, the number of studies on biological activities and phytochemical profiling of this plant is quite limited. Therefore, this study aimed to analyze its activities and phytochemical content in detail. The qualitative-quantitative compositions were determined via spectrophotometric and chromatographic (LC-MS/MS and HPLC) techniques. 1,1-Diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH^•) and 2,2'-Azino-bis 3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS^•+) radical scavenging and ascorbate-iron (III)-catalyzed phospholipid peroxidation experiments were performed to measure antioxidant capacity. Hyaluronidase, collagenase, and elastase enzyme inhibition tests were determined in vitro using a spectrophotometer. Antiproliferative activity was evaluated in human lung cancer (A549) and human breast cancer (MCF7) cells. The murine fibroblast (L929) cell line was used as a normal control cell. While the subextract rich in phenolic compounds was n-butanol extract, rosmarinic acid was defined as the main secondary metabolite. The highest antioxidant activity observed for the n-butanol subextract included the following: DPPH^• EC50: 0.08±0.00 mg/mL, TEAC/ABTS: 2.19±0.09 mmol/L Trolox, MDA EC50: 0.42±0.03 mg/mL. The methanolic extract, the ethyl acetate, and n-butanol subextracts displayed significant inhibitory activity on collagenase, while the other subextracts did not show any inhibitory activity on hyaluronidase and elastase. Due to strong interactions with their active sites, molecular docking showed luteolin 7-glucuronide, apigenin 7-glucuronide, and luteolin 5-glucoside had the highest binding affinity with target enzymes. The chloroform subextract showed significant cytotoxicity in all cell lines. These novel results revealed that S. ekimiana has strong antioxidant, collagenase enzyme inhibitory, and cytotoxic potential.

Functional and Nutraceutical Significance of Amla (Phyllanthus emblica L.): A Review

Phyllanthus emblica L. (also popularly known as amla) is a tree native to the India and Southeast Asia regions that produces fruits rich in bioactive compounds that could be explored as part of the increasing interest in naturally occurring compounds with biological activity. Thus, this review aims to highlight the nutritional aspects, rich phytochemistry and health-promoting effects of amla. Scientific evidence indicates that polyphenols are central components in fruits and other sections of the amla tree, as well as vitamin C. The rich composition of polyphenol and vitamin C imparts an important antioxidant activity along with important in vivo effects that include improved antioxidant status and activity of the endogenous antioxidant defense system. Other potential health benefits are the anti-hyperlipidemia and antidiabetic activities as well as the anticancer, anti-inflammatory, digestive tract and neurological protective activities. The promising results provided by the studies about amla bioactive compounds support their potential role in assisting the promotion of health and prevention of diseases.

Coriander (Coriandrum sativum L.) essential oil and oil-loaded nano-formulations as an anti-aging potentiality via TGFβ/SMAD pathway

Aging has become a concern for many people, especially women. Given that high-quality anti-aging products are of high cost; it has imperative to search for other economical sources. Essential oils are frequently used in cosmetics products due to a wide range of biological activities as well as their pleasant odor. The current study aimed to investigate the biochemical effect of the cosmetic potential of selected Apiaceous essential oils, traditionally used for skincare, by evaluating their anti-wrinkle activity. It is worth noting that, coriander essential oil showed the highest collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase, and hyaluronidase inhibitory activities compared to other Apiaceous oils (fennel, anise, and cumin). GC–MS proved that coriander essential oil showed a very high level of oxygenated monoterpenes, with linalool (81.29%) as the most abundant constituent. Intriguingly, coriander oil cream and Coriander Essential Oil-loaded Lipid Nanoparticles (CEOLNs) formulations attenuated in vivo UV-induced skin photoaging that was manifested by significantly decreased MDA, COX-2, PGE-2, MMP-1, JNK, and AP-1 levels. Moreover, these pharmaceutical dosage forms significantly increased skin collagen content compared to UV-injured group. Also, coriander essential oil significantly increased TGFβ, TGFβII, and SMAD3 protein expression levels compared to UV-injured group. In conclusion, the pharmaceutical dosage forms of coriander oil possess anti-wrinkle activities that could have an auspicious role in amending extrinsic aging.

Evaluation of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Kombucha-Fermented Berry Leaf Extracts Considered to Be By-Products

Leaves of Rubus fruticosus L., Vaccinum myrtillus L., Ribes nigrum L. and Fragaria vesca L. are considered agro-waste of the berry industry, but they can be a rich source of valuable bioactive compounds used in cosmetic industry. In this study, kombucha-fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. Polyphenol compounds were identified by HPLC/DAD/ESI-MS. The antioxidant potential was analyzed by evaluating the scavenging of intracellular free radicals contained in keratinocytes and fibroblasts and by DPPH and ABTS assay, obtaining a higher radical scavenging capacity for the ferments, especially for R. fruticosus and V. myrtillus ferments. Assessment of the cytotoxicity on skin cell lines showed their positive effect on the viability of fibroblasts and keratinocytes (especially for the ferments after 10 days of fermentation). The potential anti-ageing properties were determined by their ability to inhibit the activity of metalloproteinases, obtaining almost 30% inhibition of collagenase and elastase in the case of fermented V. myrtillus. Moreover, when the samples were applied to the skin, the positive effect of ferments on skin hydration and pH was demonstrated, which indicates that kombucha berry leaf extracts may be an innovative cosmetic ingredient.

Determination of Flavonoids in Selected Scleranthus Species and Their Anti-Collagenase and Antioxidant Potential

A new 5,7-dihydroxy-3′-methoxy-4′-acetoxyflavone-8-C-β-d-arabinopyranoside-2″-O-(4‴-acetoxy)-glucoside (6) and three known flavone C-glycosides—5,7,3′,4′-tetrahydroxyflavone-6-C-xyloside-8-C-β-d-glucoside (lucenin-1) (7), 5,7,3′-trihydroxyflavone-6-C-glucoside-8-C-β-d-glucoside (vicenin-2) (8), and 5,7,4′-trihydroxy-3′-methoxyflavone-6-C-β-d-glucopyranoside-8-C-α-arabinopyranoside (chrysoeriol-6-C-β-d-glucopyranoside-8-C-α-arabinopyranoside) (9)—were isolated from aerial parts of Scleranthus perennis L. (Caryophyllaceae). Their structures were determined through the use of comprehensive spectroscopic and spectrometric methods, and a method for the quantification of the major constituents of S. perennis and S. annuus L. was developed. Furthermore, the anti-collagenase and antioxidant activities of all isolated compounds obtained from extracts and fractions from both Scleranthus species were evaluated. The highest percentage of collagenase inhibition (at 400 µg/mL) was distinguished for methanolic extracts (22.06%, 32.04%) and ethyl acetate fractions (16.59%, 14.40%) from S. annuus and S. perennis. Compounds 6–9 displayed moderate inhibitory activity, with IC₅₀ values ranging from 39.59–73.86 µM.

Towards the Pharmacological Validation and Phytochemical Profiling of the Decoction and Maceration of Bruguiera gymnorhiza (L.) Lam.—A Traditionally Used Medicinal Halophyte

Decoctions (leaves and roots) of Bruguiera gymnorhiza (L.) Lam. are traditionally used against diabetes in many countries, including Mauritius. This study endeavoured to evaluate the inhibitory potential of leaves, roots, twigs and fruits extracts (decoction and maceration) of B. gymnorhiza against key enzymes relevant to diabetes. Considering complications related to diabetes, other clinical enzymes, namely, acetylcholinesterase (AChE), butyrylcholinesterase (BChE), tyrosinase, elastase and pancreatic lipase, were used. Identification of compounds was carried out using ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography/electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (UHPLC-ESI-MS/MS). Antioxidant capacities were assessed using DPPH, ABTS, FRAP, CUPRAC, phosphomolybdenum, metal chelating. The relationship between mode of extraction, plant parts and biological activities was determined using multivariate analysis. Macerated fruits, rich in phytochemicals (phenolic, flavanol, tannin, and triterpenoid), exhibited substantially high antioxidant capacities related to radical scavenging (DPPH: 547.75 ± 10.99 and ABTS: 439.59 ± 19.13 mg TE/g, respectively) and reducing potential (CUPRAC: 956.04 ± 11.90 and FRAP: 577.26 ± 4.55 mg TE/g, respectively). Additionally, the same extract significantly depressed AChE and BChE (3.75 ± 0.03 and 2.19 ± 0.13 mg GALAE/g, respectively), tyrosinase (147.01 ± 0.78 mg KAE/g), elastase (3.14 ± 0.08 mg OE/g) and amylase (1.22 ± 0.01 mmol ACAE/g) enzymatic activities. Phytochemical results confirmed the presence of 119 compounds in all maceration and 163 compounds in all decoction samples. The screening also revealed important compounds in the extracts, namely, quinic acid, brugierol, bruguierol A, epigallocatechin, chlorogenic acid, to name a few. Multivariate analysis reported that the plant parts of B. gymnorhiza greatly influenced the observed biological activities in contrast to the types of extraction methods employed. Docking calculations have supported the findings of the experimental part through the high binding affinity and strong interactions of some compounds against tyrosinase, AChE, BChE and elastase enzymes. The decocted root and leaf of B. gymnorhiza showed low to moderate antidiabetic activity, thereby partially supporting its traditional uses in the management of diabetes. However, the fruit, the most active organ, can be used as a diet supplement to reduce the risk of diabetes complications after evaluating its cytotoxic effects.

Oral acute toxicity study extract ethanol of balakka fruit (Phyllanthus emblica)

Phyllanthus emblica (PE) is a plant widely found in Indonesia, especially in Sumatra island, and in India. This study followed the OECD No. 420. The groups were divided based on gender, male and female rats. Male rats were divided into 6 groups, which were male/female control, male/female 2000 mg/kgBW, and male/female 5000 mg/kgBW. This study revealed that the ethanol extract of Phyllanthus emblica (EEPE) doses of 2000 mg/kgBW and 5000 mg/kgBW did not cause histological changes in the heart, liver, testes, ovaries, and kidneys, and did not cause changes to the hematological parameters, kidney biochemical parameters, liver biochemical parameters, and electrolyte parameters both in male and female rats. The results show that the LD50 of EEPE is higher than 5000 mg/kgBW. In short, this study provides information regarding the antioxidant activity and the safe use of EEPE. The LD50 of extract ethanol of Phyllanthus emblica is higher than 5000 mg/kgBW.

Purification of polyphenols from Phyllanthus emblica L. pomace using macroporous resins: Antioxidant activity and potential anti-Alzheimer's effects

Phyllanthus emblica L. pomace is a waste residue obtained following juicing that contains many polyphenols. In this study, NKA-II resin was selected as the optimal macroporous resin for separation and employed to separate the crude polyphenol extract of P. emblica pomace. The separation conditions were optimized, and the polyphenol content, polyphenol components, antioxidant activity, and potential anti-Alzheimer's effects of the extract were measured before and after purification. Results showed that the polyphenol content of the purified extract was 656.85 mg/g, which was 2.1 times higher than that of the nonpurified form. Further, the polyphenol components of the pomace, which was like that of the fruit, did not vary after purification. The antioxidant activity of the purified extract was also significantly improved. Moreover, purified extract significantly reduced the paralysis rate of the transgenic Caenorhabditis elegans model of Alzheimer's disease, and the mechanism was related to maintenance of redox homeostasis. PRACTICAL APPLICATION: The polyphenol content and antioxidant activity of purified polyphenol from Phyllanthus emblica L. pomace extracts were significantly improved using optimal separation methods with NKA-II macroporous resin and 70% aqueous ethanol as the eluent in this study. Moreover, purified polyphenols showed potential effects in alleviating Alzheimer's disease. These results suggest that polyphenols separated from P. emblica pomace are valuable for further research and development, and the utilization rate of P. emblica fruit is improved due to the further development of P. emblica pomace.

Biotechnological Applications and Health-Promoting Properties of Flavonols: An Updated View

Flavonols are a subclass of natural flavonoids characterized by a remarkable number of biotechnological applications and health-promoting properties. They attract researchers' attention due to many epidemiological studies supporting their usage. They are phytochemicals commonly present in our diet, being ubiquitous in the plant kingdom and, in particular, relatively very abundant in fruits and vegetables. All these aspects make flavonols candidates of choice for the valorization of products, based on the presence of a remarkable number of different chemical structures, each one characterized by specific chemical features capable of influencing biological targets inside the living organisms in very different manners. In this review, we analyzed the biochemical and physiological characteristics of flavonols focalizing our attention on the most promising compounds to shed some light on their increasing utilization in biotechnological applications in processing industries, as well as their suitable employment to improve the overall wellness of the humankind.

Flower Extracts as Multifunctional Dyes in the Cosmetics Industry

Flowers are a natural source of bioactive compounds that not only have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties, but can also be used as natural dyes. For this reason, nowadays plants are widely used to produce natural cosmetics and foods. In these studies, the properties of the water extracts of Papaver rhoeas L., Punica granatum L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., and Gomphrena globosa L., as bioactive, natural dyes, were investigated. Plant flower extracts were tested for their antioxidant (ABTS and DPPH radical methods) and anti-inflammatory effects by determining the ability to inhibit the activity of lipoxygenase and proteinase. The extracts were tested for their cytotoxic effect on skin cells, using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests. The ability to inhibit the activity of enzymes responsible for the destruction of elastin and collagen was also studied. Research has shown that extracts have no toxic effect on skin cells, are a rich source of antioxidants and show the ability to inhibit the activity of elastase and collagenase enzymes. P. rhoeas extract showed the strongest antioxidant properties with IC50 value of 24.8 ± 0.42 µg/mL and 47.5 ± 1.01 µg/mL in ABTS and DPPH tests, respectively. The tested plants are also characterized by an anti-inflammatory property, for which the ability to inhibit lipoxygenase at a level above 80% and proteinase at the level of about 55% was noted. Extracts from P. rhoeas, C. ternatea, and C. tinctorius show the strongest coloring ability and can permanently dye cosmetic products, without significant color changes during the storage of the product.

GANE can Improve Lung Fibrosis by Reducing Inflammation via Promoting p38MAPK/TGF-β1/NF-κB Signaling Pathway Downregulation

There is a trend to use nanoparticles as distinct treatments for cancer treatment because they have overcome many of the limitations of traditional drug delivery systems. Gallic acid (GA) is an effective polyphenol in the treatment of tissue injuries. In this study, GA was loaded onto niosomes to produce gallic acid nanoemulsion (GANE) using a green synthesis technique. GANE's efficiency, morphology, UV absorption, release, and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis were evaluated. An in vitro study was conducted on the A549 lung carcinoma cell line to determine the GANE cytotoxicity. Also, our study was extended to evaluate the protective effect of GANE against lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced pulmonary fibrosis in rats. GANE showed higher encapsulation efficiency and strong absorption at 280 nm. Transmission electron microscopy presented a spherical shape of the prepared nanoparticles, and FTIR demonstrated different spectra for the free gallic acid sample compared to GANE. GANE showed cytotoxicity for the A549 carcinoma lung cell line with a low IC₅₀ value. It was found that oral administration of GANE at 32.8 and 82 mg/kg.b.w. and dexamethasone (0.5 mg/kg) provided significant protection against LPS-induced pulmonary fibrosis. GANE enhanced production of superoxide dismutase, GPx, and GSH. It simultaneously reduced the MDA level. The GANE and dexamethasone, induced the production of IL-4, but suppressed TNF-α and IL-6. On the other hand, the lung p38MAPK, TGF-β1, and NF-κB gene expression was downregulated in rats administrated with GANE when compared with the LPS-treated rats. Histological studies confirmed the effective effect of GANE as it had a lung-protective effect against LPS-induced lung fibrosis. It was noticed that GANE can inhibit oxidative stress, lipid peroxidation, and cytokines and downregulate p38MAPK, TGF-β1, and NF-κB gene expression to suppress the proliferation and migration of lung fibrotic cells.

Traditional uses, bioactive composition, pharmacology, and toxicology of Phyllanthus emblica fruits: A comprehensive review

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The fruits of Phyllanthus emblica Linn or Emblica officinalis Gaertn (Phyllanthaceae), (FPE) commonly known as Indian gooseberry or Amla, gained immense importance in indigenous traditional medicinal systems, including Ayurveda, for its medicinal and nutritional benefits. It is used to cure several diseases such as common cold, fever, cough, asthma, bronchitis, diabetes, cephalalgia, ophthalmopathy, dyspepsia, colic, flatulence, hyperacidity, peptic ulcer, erysipelas, skin diseases, leprosy, hematogenesis, inflammation, anemia, emaciation, hepatopathy, jaundice, diarrhea, dysentery, hemorrhages, leucorrhea, menorrhagia, cardiac disorders, and premature greying of hair.

AIM OF THE STUDY

In the present review, we presented a comprehensive analysis of the ethnopharmacology, bioactive composition, and toxicity of P. emblica to identify the gap between research and the current applications and to help explore the trends and perspectives for future studies.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We collected the literature published before April 2021 on the phytochemistry, pharmacology, and toxicity of FPE. Literature in English from scientific databases such as PubMed, ScienceDirect, Wiley, Springer, and Google Scholar, books. These reports were analyzed and summarized to prepare this review. The plant taxonomy was verified by "The Plant List" database (http://www.theplantlist.org).

RESULTS AND CONCLUSION

s: FPE have been used as a rich source of vitamin C, minerals, and amino acids. Several bioactive molecules were isolated and identified from FPE such as tannins, flavonoids, saponins, terpenoids, alkaloids, ascorbic acid etc. The in vitro and in vivo pharmacological studies on FPE revealed its antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-diabetic, anticancer, radioprotective, hepatoprotective, immunomodulatory, hypolipidemic, anti-venom, wound healing, HIV-reverse transcriptase effect. Toxicological studies on fruits indicated the absence of any adverse effect even at a high dose after oral administration.

CONCLUSIONS

Although FPE showed remarkable therapeutic activities against several diseases such as diabetes, cancer, inflammation, hepatitis B virus, and malaria, there were several drawbacks in some previous reports including the lack of information on the drug dose, standards, controls, and mechanism of action of the extract. Further in-depth studies are required to explain the mechanism of action of the extracts to reveal the role of the bioactive compounds in the reported activities.

Black Bean (Phaseolus vulgaris L.) Polyphenolic Extract Exerts Antioxidant and Antiaging Potential

Phenolic compounds present in common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris L.) have been reported to possess antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and ultraviolet radiation (UVR) protective properties. UVR from sunlight, which consists of UV-B and UV-A radiations, induces reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radical formation, consequently activating proteinases and enzymes such as elastase and tyrosinase, leading to premature skin aging. The objective of this work was to extract, characterize and evaluate the antioxidant and antiaging potential of polyphenols from a black bean endemic variety. The polyphenolic extract was obtained from black beans by supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) using CO₂ with a mixture of water–ethanol as a cosolvent and conventional leaching with a mixture of water–ethanol as solvent. The polyphenolic extracts were purified and characterized, and antioxidant potential, tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory potentials were measured. The extract obtained using the SFE method using CO₂ and H₂O–Ethanol (50:50 v/v) as a cosolvent showed the highest total phenolic compounds yield, with 66.60 ± 7.41 mg GAE/g coat (p > 0.05) and 7.30 ± 0.64 mg C3GE/g coat (p < 0.05) of anthocyanins compared to conventional leaching. Nineteen tentative phenolic compounds were identified in leaching crude extract using ESI-QTOF. Quercetin-3-D-galactoside was identified in crude and purified extracts. The purified SFC extract showed IC₅₀ 0.05 ± 0.002 and IC₅₀ 0.21 ± 0.008 mg/mL for DPPH and ABTS, respectively. The lowest IC₅₀ value of tyrosinase inhibition was 0.143 ± 0.02 mg/mL and 0.005 ± 0.003 mg/mL of elastase inhibition for leaching purified extract. Phenolic compounds presented theoretical free energy values ranging from −5.3 to −7.8 kcal/mol for tyrosinase and −2.5 to −6.8 kcal/mol for elastase in molecular docking (in silico) studies. The results suggest that the purified extracts obtained by SFE or conventional leaching extraction could act as antioxidant and antiaging ingredients for cosmeceutical applications.

Two triterpenoids from Rubus fraxinifolius leaves and their tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activities

Numerous therapeutic compounds have been isolated from naturally abundant organic resources, which may offer economical and sustainable sources of compounds with safe and efficacious biological activities. In the cosmetics industry, natural compounds with anti-aging activities are eagerly sought. Thus, we prepared various extracts from Rubus fraxinifolius leaves and used enzyme inhibition assays to isolate compounds with protective effects against skin aging. Two triterpenoids were isolated from Rubus fraxinifolius Poir. leaves. The structures were characterized by spectroscopic analyses (LC-ESI-MS, 1D/2D NMR) and comparison to reported data. Compound 1 and 2 were determined as 2,3-O-ethyleneglycol, 19-hydroxyurs-12-en-23,28-dioic acid and 2,3-O-propanediol,19-hydroxyurs-12-en-28-oic acid. Methanol extract and isolates were assessed for their inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase. Compounds 1 and 2 inhibited elastase with IC₅₀ 122.199 µg/mL and 98.22 µg/mL, and also inhibited tyrosinase with IC₅₀ 207.79 µg/mL and 221.51 µg/mL, respectively. The molecular docking proved that both compounds have affinities toward the enzymes.

Phyllanthus emblica L. (amla) branch: A safe and effective ingredient against skin aging

BACKGROUND AND AIM

Skin aging influences the changes in skin, including skin dryness, wrinkle, and irregular pigmentation. Amla (Phyllanthus emblica L.) branch has shown several benefits, but not the anti-skin aging. The study aimed to evaluate the anti-skin aging efficacy of amla branch.

EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURE

Amla branches were standardized the phenolic acids. The extract was investigated anti-skin aging activities, including antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-melanogenesis, and matrix metalloproteinase-2 inhibitory assays. Topical gel containing extract was prepared and evaluated the skin irritation by a single closed patch test. Randomized, double-blind, placebo-control study was performed in 20 volunteers for 84 consecutive days. The tested skin was evaluated by Chromameter® CR 400, Dermalab® USB, Mexameter® MX 18, Corneometer® CM 825, and Visioscan® VC 98.

RESULTS

Amla branch extract, a dark brown powder, consisted a variety of phenolic acids, mainly sinapic and ferulic acids. The extract exhibited the potent antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory activities in vitro assays and the melanin suppression through inhibition of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-2 activities, the strong antioxidant, and the potent matrix metalloproteinase-2 in cellular assays at 0.1 mg/mL. Topical gel containing 0.1% extract was a stable and safe formulation. Clinical study was proved the superior anti-skin aging efficacy, including the lightening skin color, the enhanced skin elasticity and hydration, and the skin wrinkle reduction.

CONCLUSION

The study results suggested that amla branch is a rich source of bioactive compounds and can be a potential ingredient for utilization in anti-skin aging products.

Dermal Drug Delivery of Phytochemicals with Phenolic Structure via Lipid-Based Nanotechnologies

Phenolic compounds are a large, heterogeneous group of secondary metabolites found in various plants and herbal substances. From the perspective of dermatology, the most important benefits for human health are their pharmacological effects on oxidation processes, inflammation, vascular pathology, immune response, precancerous and oncological lesions or formations, and microbial growth. Because the nature of phenolic compounds is designed to fit the phytochemical needs of plants and not the biopharmaceutical requirements for a specific route of delivery (dermal or other), their utilization in cutaneous formulations sets challenges to drug development. These are encountered often due to insufficient water solubility, high molecular weight and low permeation and/or high reactivity (inherent for the set of representatives) and subsequent chemical/photochemical instability and ionizability. The inclusion of phenolic phytochemicals in lipid-based nanocarriers (such as nanoemulsions, liposomes and solid lipid nanoparticles) is so far recognized as a strategic physico-chemical approach to improve their in situ stability and introduction to the skin barriers, with a view to enhance bioavailability and therapeutic potency. This current review is focused on recent advances and achievements in this area.

Potency of bisresorcinol from Heliciopsis terminalis on skin aging: in vitro bioactivities and molecular interactions

Background

A bisresorcinol was isolated as the main constituent of Heliciopsis terminalis’s trunk (Proteaceae). Recently, resorcinol is applied as an active whitening agent in various cosmetic products. Because of the structural mimic to resorcinol, benefits of the bisresorcinol as an aging-enzyme antagonist were demonstrated in this study.

Methods

The bisresorcinol was purified from the crude ethanolic extract of H. terminalis’s trunk by solvent extraction and preparative chromatography, respectively. Inhibitory activity on collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase of the compound was investigated by using a different spectroscopic technique. Molecular docking was carried out to predict possible interactions of the substance around the enzyme active sites.

Results

The IC₅₀ values on collagenase of the bisresorcinol and caffeic acid were 156.7 ± 0.7 and 308.9 ± 1.6 µmole L⁻¹, respectively. For elastase activity, the IC₅₀ of 33.2 ± 0.5 and 34.3 ± 0.3 µmole L⁻¹ was respectively determined for the bisresorcinol and ursolic acid. The bisresorcinol was inhibitory to tyrosinase by exhibiting the IC₅₀ of 22.8 µmole L⁻¹, and that of 78.4 µmole L⁻¹ was present for β-arbutin. The bisresorcinol bound to collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase with the respective binding energies of −5.89, −5.69, and −6.57 kcal mol⁻¹. These binding energies were in the same ranges of tested inhibitors. The aromatic phenol groups in the structure were responsible for principle as well as supporting binding interactions with enzymes. Hydrogen binding due to hydroxyl groups and π-related attractive forces from an aromatic ring(s) provided binding versatility to bisresorcinol.

Conclusion

The bisresorcinol purified from H. terminalis might be useful for inclusion in cosmetic products as an aging-enzyme antagonist.

Epilobium angustifolium L. Extracts as Valuable Ingredients in Cosmetic and Dermatological Products

Epilobium angustifolium L. is a popular and well-known medicinal plant. In this study, an attempt to evaluate the possibility of using this plant in preparations for the care and treatment of skin diseases was made. The antioxidant, antiaging and anti-inflammatory properties of ethanolic extracts from Epilobium angustifolium (FEE) were assessed. Qualitative and quantitative evaluation of extracts chemically composition was performed by gas chromatography with mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The total polyphenol content (TPC) of biologically active compounds, such as the total content of polyphenols (TPC), flavonoids (TFC), and assimilation pigments, as well as selected phenolic acids, was assessed. FEE was evaluated for their anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties, achieving 68% inhibition of lipoxygenase activity, 60% of collagenase and 49% of elastase. FEE also showed high antioxidant activity, reaching to 87% of free radical scavenging using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 59% using 2,2'-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS). Additionally, in vitro penetration studies were performed using two vehicles, i.e., a hydrogel and an emulsion containing FEE. These studies showed that the active ingredients contained in FEE penetrate through human skin and accumulate in it. The obtained results indicate that E. angustifolium may be an interesting plant material to be applied as a component of cosmetic and dermatological preparations with antiaging and anti-inflammatory properties.

Effects of Tiarella polyphylla D. Don Callus Extract on Photoaging in Human Foreskin Fibroblasts Hs68 Cells

Ultraviolet (UV)-irradiation causes an overproduction of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and collagen (COL) degradation causing skin sunburn, inflammation, or photoaging in human. In this study, we prepared callus from Tiarella polyphylla D. Don ( T. polyphylla) stem and its phytochemical profiles were analyzed using HPLC-MWD. The effects of T. polyphylla callus extract evaluated against on UVB-induced damage in human foreskin fibroblast (Hs68). Hs68 was exposed to UVB in the presence or absence of T. polyphylla callus extract at concentrations of 100 and 250 µg/mL. Cell damage caused by UVB was inhibited by T. polyphylla callus extract, which was tested by cell viability and caspase 3 activity in Hs68 cells. Further experiment revealed that T. polyphylla extract suppressed the level of MMP-1, but increased the level of type I procollagen. In addition, T. polyhylla callus extract inhibited UVB-mediated COL (-1 and -3) protein degradation and MMP (-1, 2, and -3) overexpression in Hs68. These results suggest that T. polyphylla callus extract has considerable potential as a cosmetic ingredient with anti-aging effects.

Potential Use of Amla (Phyllanthus emblica L.) Fruit Extract to Protect Skin Keratinocytes from Inflammation and Apoptosis after UVB Irradiation

Ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure is the primary risk factor for the deadliest type of skin cancer—melanoma. Incorporating natural antioxidants in skin protection products is currently a favored research theme. For this study, we selected Phyllanthus emblica L. fruit extract (PE) to assess its potential use in dermal protection against UVB-induced keratinocyte inflammation and apoptosis. High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was used to investigate PE’s phytochemical constituents (ascorbic acid, ellagic acid, gallic acid, chlorogenic acid, and quercetin), while ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP), oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC), total ROS, OH^•, O₂^•−, and H₂O₂-scavenging activities were used to determine the antioxidant properties. PE significantly increased the cell viability (MTT assay) and reduced apoptosis (Hoechst staining) in HaCaT cells exposed to UVB (40 mJ/cm²). PE abolished oxidative stress by reducing the production of intracellular ROS, O₂^•− and H₂O₂ production. Catalase activity (but not superoxide dismutase or glutathione peroxidase activity) was enhanced in keratinocytes incubated with PE prior to UVB exposure. Western blot analysis suggested that PE inhibited cytochrome c release and inhibited the dysregulation of PI3K/Akt without any impact on p38 activation. PE attenuated the inflammatory response to UVB irradiation by inhibiting AP-1, NF-κB, and the mediator PGE₂. Thus, PE is a candidate with great potential for use as an active ingredient in skin care products.

Bioactivities of Karanda (Carissa carandas Linn.) fruit extracts for novel cosmeceutical applications

The aim of this research was to determine the total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidation, antiaging, and antibacterial activities of Carissa carandas Linn., and aims at the novel plant sources which is utilized for their cosmeceutical applications. The two conditions (fresh and dried) and three stages (unripe, ripe, and fully ripe) of C. carandas were extracted by ethanolic maceration. Folin–Ciocalteu assay was used for determining the TPC. 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2′-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) assays were used for estimating antioxidant activity. The inhibitory tyrosinase activities were measured using the modified dopachrome assay. Antiaging was evaluated by inhibition of collagenase and elastase, and antibacterial activities. The result of six extracts from C. carandas showed that the highest phenolic content and elastase inhibition of the fresh fruit in fully ripe stage were 100.31 ± 2.64 mg GAE/g extract and 14.11% ± 0.95%, respectively. The fresh fruit in the unripe stage showed that the strongest percentage of DPPH IC₅₀ and collagenase inhibitory activity were 29.11 ± 0.23 μg/mL and 85.94% ± 2.21%, respectively. The ethanolic extract of unripe dried fruit exhibited the highest antioxidant activity in the of ABTS assay, with an IC₅₀ of 0.17 ± 0.01 μg/mL. The MBC displayed the dried fruit ripe stage anti Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Staphylococcus aureus strains were 25.0, 25.0, and 16.25 mg/mL, respectively. The fresh fruit in the ripe stage showed that the strongest inhibition tyrosinase was 93.88% ± 5.64%. The conclusion of this research indicates that the fresh fruit of C. carandas fruit extracts has high potential as a novel cosmeceuticals’ applications to antiaging and skin whitening. The dried fruit in ripe stage extract has the most effective ingredient for antiacne products.

Antielastase Activity of Macassar Kernels (Rhus javanica) Stem Extract and Skin Elasticity Evaluation of Its Topical Gel Formulation

Background

Macassar kernels (Rhus javanica L.) has potential as an antiaging agent as it has antielastase activity, especially its stem extract which has best percent inhibition compared to its leaves and fruit extract. Moreover, the antiaging agent can be commonly used in the form of gel for topical applications. Hence, formulation of HEC-based topical gel from the stem extract of Macassar kernels was conducted. This study aims to determine the antielastase activity of the stem extract of Macassar kernels and evaluate the skin elasticity of its topical gel formulation by conducting dermatological safety and skin antiaging efficacy test.

Methods

The stem extract was in vitro tested for antielastase activity using a microplate reader. Then, a formulation of a topical gel containing Rhus javanica stem extract was made. Five stages of quality control, which consisted of an organoleptic test, homogeneity test, pH measurement, viscosity measurement, and physicochemical stability test, were conducted to ensure the quality of topical gel formulation. Last, clinical studies were conducted to evaluate the dermatological safety and antiaging efficacy of gel preparation containing stem extract of Rhus javanica. Results. The stem extract provided antielastase activity (IC50 = 245.68 μg/mL), and its polyphenol was valued at 23.28 ± 1.52 mg GAE/g). The gel containing 10% stem extract had better stability than the gel containing 5% stem extract. The dermatology safety test and efficacy test results indicated that the topical gel containing 10% Rhus javanica stem extract did not cause any skin irritation and significantly improved skin elasticity (p < 0.05). In the treatment group, the moisture parameter was significantly changed on day 14 (p < 0.0001), day 21 (p < 0.0001), and day 29 (p < 0.0001). The elasticity parameter was also changed significantly on day 14 (p=0.0485), day 21 (p=0.0537), and day 29 (p=0.0002).

Conclusion

The stem extract of Rhus javanica has potential antielastase activity. The topical gel containing Rhus javanica stem extract also has potential antielastase activity by increasing the skin moisture and enhancing skin elasticity.

A Unique Acylated Flavonol Glycoside from Prunus persica (L.) var. Florida Prince: A New Solid Lipid Nanoparticle Cosmeceutical Formulation for Skincare

Polyphenols are known dietary antioxidants. They have recently attracted considerable interest in uses to prevent skin aging and hyperpigmentation resulting from solar UV-irradiation. Prunus persica (L.) leaves are considered by-products and were reported to have a remarkable antioxidant activity due to their high content of polyphenols. This study aimed at the development of a cosmeceutical anti-aging and skin whitening cream preparation using ethanol leaves extract of Prunus persica (L.) (PPEE) loaded in solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) to enhance the skin delivery. Chemical investigation of PPEE showed significantly high total phenolic and flavonoids content with notable antioxidant activities (DPPH, ABTS, and β-carotene assays). A unique acylated kaempferol glycoside with a rare structure, kaempferol 3-O-β-⁴C₁-(6″-O-3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetyl glucopyranoside) (KDPAG) was isolated for the first time and its structure fully elucidated. It represents the first example of acylation with 3,4-dihydroxyphenyl acetic acid in flavonoid chemistry. The in-vitro cytotoxicity studies against a human keratinocytes cell line revealed the non-toxicity of PPEE and PPEE-SLNs. Moreover, PPEE, PPEE-SLNs, and KDPAG showed good anti-elastase activity, comparable to that of N-(Methoxysuccinyl)-Ala-Ala-Pro-Val-chloromethyl ketone. Besides, PPEE-SLNs and KDPAG showed significantly (p < 0.001) higher anti-collagenase and anti-tyrosinase activities in comparison to EDTA and kojic acid, respectively. Different PPEE-SLNs cream formulae (2% and 5%) were evaluated for possible anti-wrinkle activity against UV-induced photoaging in a mouse model using a wrinkle scoring method and were shown to offer a highly significant protective effect against UV, as evidenced by tissue biomarkers (SOD) and histopathological studies. Thus, the current study demonstrates that Prunus persica leaf by-products provide an interesting, valuable resource for natural cosmetic ingredients. This provides related data for further studying the potential safe use of PPEE-SLNs in topical anti-aging cosmetic formulations with enhanced skin permeation properties.

Antimicrobial and anthelmintic activities of the ethanolic extract, fractions and isolated compounds from Manilkara zapota L. P. Royen (Sapotaceae)

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate the antibacterial, antifungal and anthelmintic activities of the ethanolic extract (EEMz), fractions (LPFMz and HPFMz) and compounds isolated from the leaves of Manilkara zapota L. P. Royen.

METHODS

Extract and fractions were produced by turbolization. LPFMz fraction was analysed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The isolated compounds from HPFMz were purified by flash and preparative chromatographic methods, and chemically characterised by UPLC-ESITOFMS, optical rotation, and one- and two-dimensional 1H and 13C NMR techniques. Anthelmintic against Strongyloides venezuelensis and antimicrobial activities against Candida albicans, Trichophyton rubrum and Staphylococcus aureus were evaluated.

KEY FINDINGS

EEMz showed mainly phenolic compounds and pentacyclic triterpenes from Δ12-oleane/Δ12-ursane series. Chlorogenic acid, myricetin-3-O-β-D-glucopyranoside, mearnsitrin, germanicol and germanicol acetate were reported to M. zapota leaves for the first time in this work. EEMz, HPFMz, LPFMz showed significative activity against C. albicans (16 µg/mL), while isolated flavonoids were active against S. aureus (<32 µg/mL). EEMz, phenolic-rich compounds (F2), and chlorogenic acid were potentially active against S. venezuelensis at 24 h.

CONCLUSIONS

M. zapota and its bioactive compound can be eligible such as a potential phytomedicine for the treatment of microbial and strongyloidiasis drug-resistant infections.

Functional ingredient from avocado peel: Microwave-assisted extraction, characterization and potential applications for the food industry

Avocado peel is a by-product obtained in high amounts in the food industry with no further applications despite its richness in bioactive compounds. In this context, an efficient "green" microwave assisted extraction (MAE) was optimized to maximize the extraction of bioactive polyphenols. Moreover, the phenolic composition of the developed green avocado extract was characterized by HPLC coupled to MS analysers and the potential applications for the food industry were studied assaying different bioactivities. Thus, the matrix metalloproteinases inhibition, the antioxidant capacity and the antimicrobial activity against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeast and mold were tested. The results pointed out both, high matrix metalloproteinases inhibitory capacity and antioxidant activity of avocado peel MAE extract. These findings suggest the potential food industry applications of this extract as natural food preservative, functional food ingredient or nutraceuticals with antioxidant and anti-aging activities.