Emerging Strategies to Protect the Skin from Ultraviolet Rays Using Plant-Derived Materials

Therapeutic effect of NEO400, perillyl alcohol conjugated to linoleic acid, in a mouse model of UV-induced skin damage

Excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) causes harmful effects on human skin. Pre-exposure application of sunscreen can be protective, but not after damage already has occurred. There is a need for agents that can be applied post-UVR exposure to repair the damage. We investigated a novel compound, NEO400, that appears to meet this medicinal need. NEO400 was created by conjugating linoleic acid to perillyl alcohol. UVR was repeatedly administered to the skin of mice over several weeks, where it caused the typical signs of UV damage, including scaling of the skin, DNA damage, and elevated levels of inflammatory cytokines. However, when NEO400 was applied immediately post-UVR, it triggered the appearance of markers for dermal stem cell proliferation, and no signs of skin damage emerged. Furthermore, when NEO400 was applied to skin that already had incurred significant damage, it accelerated skin healing. When applied individually, linoleic acid and perillyl alcohol were ineffective, indicating that they had to be conjugated in order to exert therapeutic efficacy. None of these skin-protective effects could be achieved with Aloe vera gel, a popular and widely used post-exposure remedy. Our study suggests that NEO400 holds potential as a regenerative treatment for excessively UVR-exposed skin.

Can Plant Extracts Help Prevent Hair Loss or Promote Hair Growth? A Review Comparing Their Therapeutic Efficacies, Phytochemical Components, and Modulatory Targets

This narrative review aims to examine the therapeutic potential and mechanism of action of plant extracts in preventing and treating alopecia (baldness). We searched and selected research papers on plant extracts related to hair loss, hair growth, or hair regrowth, and comprehensively compared the therapeutic efficacies, phytochemical components, and modulatory targets of plant extracts. These studies showed that various plant extracts increased the survival and proliferation of dermal papilla cells in vitro, enhanced cell proliferation and hair growth in hair follicles ex vivo, and promoted hair growth or regrowth in animal models in vivo. The hair growth-promoting efficacy of several plant extracts was verified in clinical trials. Some phenolic compounds, terpenes and terpenoids, sulfur-containing compounds, and fatty acids were identified as active compounds contained in plant extracts. The pharmacological effects of plant extracts and their active compounds were associated with the promotion of cell survival, cell proliferation, or cell cycle progression, and the upregulation of several growth factors, such as IGF-1, VEGF, HGF, and KGF (FGF-7), leading to the induction and extension of the anagen phase in the hair cycle. Those effects were also associated with the alleviation of oxidative stress, inflammatory response, cellular senescence, or apoptosis, and the downregulation of male hormones and their receptors, preventing the entry into the telogen phase in the hair cycle. Several active plant extracts and phytochemicals stimulated the signaling pathways mediated by protein kinase B (PKB, also called AKT), extracellular signal-regulated kinases (ERK), Wingless and Int-1 (WNT), or sonic hedgehog (SHH), while suppressing other cell signaling pathways mediated by transforming growth factor (TGF)-β or bone morphogenetic protein (BMP). Thus, well-selected plant extracts and their active compounds can have beneficial effects on hair health. It is proposed that the discovery of phytochemicals targeting the aforementioned cellular events and cell signaling pathways will facilitate the development of new targeted therapies for alopecia.

Skin Color Analysis of Various Body Parts (Forearm, Upper Arm, Elbow, Knee, and Shin) and Changes with Age in 53 Korean Women, Considering Intrinsic and Extrinsic Factors

Background/Objectives: Skin color is innately determined by race and other genetic factors, and it also undergoes acquired changes due to various intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Previous studies on skin color have mainly focused on the face, and research has recently expanded to other body parts. However, there is limited information about the age-dependent changes in the skin color of these body parts. The purpose of this study is to analyze the differences in skin color between various body parts and the changes in skin color of each body part with age. Methods: This study examined the skin color of 53 Korean women subjects evenly distributed in age from the 20s to 60s on several body parts: forearm, upper arm, elbow (extended or folded), knee (extended or folded), thigh, and shin. The lightness (L*), redness (a*), and yellowness (b*) were measured using a spectrophotometer, and the individual typology angle (ITA°) was calculated from the L* and b* values. The melanin index and erythema index were measured using the mexameter. Results: The results showed that the elbow skin had the lowest L* and ITA° values and the highest a* and b* values among the examined body parts, followed by the knee. The melanin index and erythema index were also high in the skin of these body parts. In the analysis of age-dependent changes in the skin color of various body parts, the forearm skin exhibited the most notable decrease in the L* and ITA° values and increases in the a* and b* values, followed by upper-arm skin. The melanin and erythema indices in the forearm also increased as the subjects aged, whereas those in the elbow and knee rather decreased with age. Conclusions: This study suggests that differences in intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging in various body parts may be expressed as different changes in skin color and raises the need for cosmetic and dermatological research to identify the physiological significance of these changes.

Photoprotective effect of topical treatment with Lopezia racemosa extract against deleterious UVB irradiation effects in the skin of hairless mice

Lopezia racemosa is known as a "mosquito flower or perlilla." It is commonly found in corn crops. In traditional Mexican medicine, this plant is used to treat stomach cancer and urinary tract infections. Likewise, compounds and extracts isolated from plants have shown cytotoxic and anti-inflammatory effects. The objective of this study was to evaluate the photochemoprotective effect of topical treatment with the methanolic extract of L. racemosa (MELR) as a photochemoprotective agent against the harmful effects of UV irradiation (UVR) on a bacterial model and hairless mice. The MELR components were separated and analyzed via HPLC-UV-ESI-MS. Antioxidant activity was evaluated by the ability of MERL to scavenge DPPH and ABTS free radicals and by its FRAP capacity. The toxicity of MELR was evaluated in keratinocyte cultures. The photoprotective capacity of MELR was assessed through challenge experiments using models with bacteria and hairless CD1 et/et mice; cytokines related to the damage caused by UVR were also measured. In the methanolic extract of L. racemosa, five metabolites were detected and identified: two isomers of quercetin 6-C glycoside, orientin, quercetin 3-(6″-acetylglycoside) and quercetin 3-(6″-galloylglycoside) 7-(2,3-dihydroxytetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-yl acetate). MELR exhibited DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging properties, in addition to Fe ion reducing activity. MELR showed a photoprotective effect against UVB radiation-induced death in Escherichia coli bacteria. At the histological level, topical treatment of CD-1 et/et mice with MERL reduced the damage caused by UVR. Quantification of interleukins in the blood of mice revealed that the expression of IL-12 was greater in the control group treated with ultraviolet radiation than in the group protected with MELR. The methanolic extract of L. racemosa has photochemoprotective properties.

Proteomics analysis to investigate the potential mechanism of theacrine against UV-induced skin photodamage

AIM

This study aimed to explore the underlying mechanism of theacrine treatment of UV-induced skin photodamage.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Tandem Mass Tag (TMT) relative quantitative proteomics analysis was used to characterize the proteins and pathways associated with the ability of theacrine to combat photodamage in mouse skin by modeling UV irradiation of the backs of ICR mice.

RESULTS

Apoptosis-related proteins and signaling pathways play a key role in the ability of theacrine to protect against skin photodamage, according to proteomic and bioinformatics analysis; molecular docking and Western blotting further revealed that theacrine was associated with apoptosis-related proteins (p53, Bcl-2, Bax, caspase-3, and cleaved-caspase-3) with strong binding affinity, which can significantly reduce skin cell apoptosis induced by UV exposure.

CONCLUSION

The findings revealed that theacrine can reduce UVB-induced epidermal damage by controlling the apoptosis signaling pathway, implying that theacrine could be a useful anti-UVB damage agent.

Chemical composition, antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase potentials of Acacia cyclops trunk bark using in vitro and in silico approaches

The purpose of this paper was to evaluate the phytochemical profile of Acacia cyclops trunk bark methanol extract using LC-MS/MS, as well as to assess its antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities. Thus, total phenolic and flavonoid contents of the studied extract were established and 19 compounds were detected and quantified. In addition of their antioxidant potential against DPPH and ABTS assays, in vitro and in silico studies were adopted to evaluate tyrosinase inhibitory property of A. cyclops extract. Methanol trunk bark extract showed significant total phenolic content, antioxidant potential in terms of free radical scavenging, as well as an interesting tyrosinase inhibitory action (IC50= 05.12 ± 0.41 μg/mL). The molecular docking analysis and the drug-likeness prediction of the major selected compounds supported the significant anti-tyrosinase activity of the studied extract. The obtained results suggest that A. cyclops extract could be a promising candidate in the treatment of skin hyperpigmentation disorders.

Factors associated with older adults' knowledge, attitude and practice on skin cancer prevention

OBJECTIVES

to identify factors associated with older adults' knowledge, attitude and practice regarding skin cancer prevention.

METHODS

this is a cross-sectional study, carried out with 120 older adults from a Basic Health Unit in Quixadá, Ceará, from September to November 2018.

RESULTS

individuals aged 60 to 69 years and working were statistically associated with adequate knowledge (p=0.038). Having light skin, eyes and hair was associated with adequate attitude (p=0.030). Having skin problems, such as bleeding wounds, was associated with adequate practice (p=0.016). With regard to inappropriate behavior for skin cancer prevention, there was a statistically significant association between working or having worked under direct exposure to the sun, inadequate knowledge (p=0.036), inadequate attitude (p=0.010) and having incomplete primary education and inadequate practice (p<0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

sociodemographic and clinical factors influence older adults' knowledge, attitude and practice regarding skin cancer prevention.

Novel Hydrogenated Derivatives of Chemically Modified Curcumin CMC2.24 Are Potent Inhibitors of Melanogenesis in an In Vitro Model: Influence of Degree of Hydrogenation

Chemically modified curcumin, CMC2.24, is a promising therapeutic that has shown efficacy in ameliorating excessive pigmentation in our previous studies. However, its inherent disadvantages of color, stability, solubility, and cytotoxicity to melanocytes and keratinocytes at concentrations > 4 µg/mL posed challenges in its use in cosmetic formulations. To overcome these limitations, chemical reduction by hydrogenation of CMC2.24 (compound 1) was developed to yield products at different time points of hydrogenation (1 h, 2 h, 4 h, and 24 h) referred to as partially (2, 3, 4) or fully hydrogenated (5) products, and the effects of the degree of hydrogenation on melanogenesis in vitro were explored. Compound 1 and products 2-5 were evaluated using mushroom tyrosinase activity assays with two substrates (L-tyrosine and L-DOPA), then cellular assays using B16F10 mouse melanoma cells, MNT-1 human melanoma cells, and physiological normal human melanocytes (HEMn-DP cells). The cytotoxicity, melanin contents, cellular tyrosinase activities, and cellular oxidative stress were evaluated. Moreover, the recovery of melanin contents in HEMn-DP cells was also studied. Our results provide novel insights into the role of the degree of hydrogenation of compound 1 on the biological effects of melanogenesis, which were dependent on cell type. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study to show that in HEMn-DP cells, the anti-melanogenic efficacy of the yellow-colored CMC2.24 is retained as early as 1 h after its hydrogenation; this efficacy is enhanced with longer durations of hydrogenation, with a robust efficacy achieved for the 24 h hydrogenated product 5 at the lowest concentration of 4 µg/mL. A similar potency could be achieved for product 4 at higher concentrations, although interestingly, both differ only by a minor amount of dihydro-CMC2.24. Our results indicate promise for using products 4 & 5 as a skin-lightener in cosmetic formulations with the advantages of lack of color combined with a potency much greater than that of the parent compound 1 at lower concentrations and reversibility of the effects on melanocytes. This, along with the easy synthesis and scale-up of the hydrogenation method for CMC2.24 and the documented higher solubility, stability, and bioavailability of tetrahydrocurcumin, provides further impetus to incorporating these derivatives in cosmetic formulations. The results of this study can help to extend the therapeutic window of the lead compound CMC2.24 by providing options for selecting partially or fully hydrogenated derivatives for cosmetic applications where a trade-off between color and efficacy is needed. Thus, the degree of hydrogenation can be tuned for desired biological effects. Further studies are warranted to evaluate the efficacy of products 4 & 5 at suppressing pigmentation in 3D skin-tissue equivalents and in vivo models.

The Prophylactic Effect of Vitamin C and Vitamin B12 against Ultraviolet-C-Induced Hepatotoxicity in Male Rats

Ultraviolet C (UVC) devices are an effective means of disinfecting surfaces and protecting medical tools against various microbes, including coronavirus. Overexposure to UVC can induce oxidative stress, damage the genetic material, and harm biological systems. This study investigated the prophylactic efficacy of vitamin C and B12 against hepatotoxicity in UVC-intoxicated rats. Rats were irradiated with UVC (725.76, 967.68, and 1048.36 J/cm²) for 2 weeks. The rats were pretreated with the aforementioned antioxidants for two months before UVC irradiation. The prophylactic effect of vitamins against UVC hepatotoxicity was evaluated by monitoring the alteration of liver enzyme activities, antioxidant status, apoptotic and inflammatory markers, DNA fragmentation, and histological and ultrastructural alterations. Rats exposed to UVC showed a significant increase in liver enzymes, oxidant-antioxidant balance disruption, and increased hepatic inflammatory markers (TNF-α, IL-1β, iNOS, and IDO-1). Additionally, obvious over-expression of activated caspase-3 protein and DNA fragmentation were detected. Histological and ultrastructural examinations verified the biochemical findings. Co-treatment with vitamins ameliorated the deviated parameters to variable degrees. In conclusion, vitamin C could alleviate UVC-induced hepatotoxicity more than vitamin B12 by diminishing oxidative stress, inflammation, and DNA damage. This study could provide a reference for the clinical practice of vitamin C and B12 as radioprotective for workers in UVC disinfectant areas.

Recent Applications of Melanin-like Nanoparticles as Antioxidant Agents

Nanosized antioxidants are highly advantageous in terms of versatility and pharmacokinetics, with respect to conventional molecular ones. Melanin-like materials, artificial species inspired by natural melanin, combine recognized antioxidant (AOX) activity with a unique versatility of preparation and modification. Due to this versatility and documented biocompatibility, artificial melanin has been incorporated into a variety of nanoparticles (NP) in order to give new platforms for nanomedicine with enhanced AOX activity. In this review article, we first discuss the chemical mechanisms behind the AOX activity of materials in the context of the inhibition of the radical chain reaction responsible for the peroxidation of biomolecules. We also focus briefly on the AOX properties of melanin-like NP, considering the effect of parameters such as size, preparation methods and surface functionalization on them. Then, we consider the most recent and relevant applications of AOX melanin-like NPs that are able to counteract ferroptosis and be involved in the treatment of important diseases that affect, e.g., the cardiovascular and nervous systems, as well as the kidneys, liver and articulations. A specific section will be dedicated to cancer treatment, since the role of melanin in this context is still very debated. Finally, we propose future strategies in AOX development for a better chemical understanding of melanin-like materials. In particular, the composition and structure of these materials are still debated, and they present a high level of variability. Thus, a better understanding of the mechanism behind the interaction of melanin-like nanostructures with different radicals and highly reactive species would be highly advantageous for the design of more effective and specific AOX nano-agents.

Targeted and untargeted metabolomics reveals deep analysis of drought stress responses in needles and roots of Pinus taeda seedlings

Drought stress is one of major environmental stresses affecting plant growth and yield. Although Pinus taeda trees are planted in rainy southern China, local drought sometime occurs and can last several months, further affecting their growth and resin production. In this study, P. taeda seedlings were treated with long-term drought (42 d), and then targeted and untargeted metabolomics analysis were carried out to evaluate drought tolerance of P. taeda. Targeted metabolomics analysis showed that levels of some sugars, phytohormones, and amino acids significantly increased in the roots and needles of water-stressed (WS) P. taeda seedlings, compared with well-watered (WW) pine seedlings. These metabolites included sucrose in pine roots, the phytohormones abscisic acid and sacylic acid in pine needles, the phytohormone gibberellin (GA4) and the two amino acids, glycine and asparagine, in WS pine roots. Compared with WW pine seedlings, the neurotransmitter acetylcholine significantly increased in needles of WS pine seedlings, but significantly reduced in their roots. The neurotransmitters L-glutamine and hydroxytyramine significantly increased in roots and needles of WS pine seedlings, respectively, compared with WW pine seedlings, but the neurotransmitter noradrenaline significantly reduced in needles of WS pine seedlings. Levels of some unsaturated fatty acids significantly reduced in roots or needles of WS pine seedlings, compared with WW pine seedlings, such as linoleic acid, oleic acid, myristelaidic acid, myristoleic acid in WS pine roots, and palmitelaidic acid, erucic acid, and alpha-linolenic acid in WS pine needles. However, three saturated fatty acids significantly increased in WS pine seedlings, i.e., dodecanoic acid in WS pine needles, tricosanoic acid and heptadecanoic acid in WS pine roots. Untargeted metabolomics analysis showed that levels of some metabolites increased in WS pine seedlings, especially sugars, long-chain lipids, flavonoids, and terpenoids. A few of specific metabolites increased greatly, such as androsin, piceatanol, and panaxatriol in roots and needles of WS pine seedlings. Comparing with WW pine seedlings, it was found that the most enriched pathways in WS pine needles included flavone and flavonol biosynthesis, ABC transporters, diterpenoid biosynthesis, plant hormone signal transduction, and flavonoid biosynthesis; in WS pine roots, the most enriched pathways included tryptophan metabolism, caffeine metabolism, sesquiterpenoid and triterpenoid biosynthesis, plant hormone signal transduction, biosynthesis of phenylalanine, tyrosine, and tryptophan. Under long-term drought stress, P. taeda seedlings showed their own metabolomics characteristics, and some new metabolites and biosynthesis pathways were found, providing a guideline for breeding drought-tolerant cultivars of P. taeda.

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate Potentiates an Anti-Inflammaging System in Keratinocytes

Skincare products play a crucial role in preventing the dry skin induced by various causes. Certain ingredients can help to improve the efficacy of skincare products. Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF) is such a functional ingredient. Its use originated from the empirical observation that the hands of sake brewers who deal with yeast fermentation retain a beautiful and youthful appearance. Consequently, skincare products based on GFF are widely used throughout the world. Recent studies have demonstrated that GFF activates an aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR) and upregulates the expression of filaggrin, a pivotal endogenous source of natural moisturizing factors, in epidermal keratinocytes. It also activates nuclear factor erythroid-2-related factor 2 (NRF2), the antioxidative master transcription factor, and exhibits potent antioxidative activity against oxidative stress induced by ultraviolet irradiation and proinflammatory cytokines, which also accelerate inflammaging. GFF-mediated NRF2 activation downregulates the expression of CDKN2A, which is known to be overexpressed in senescent keratinocytes. Moreover, GFF enhances epidermal terminal differentiation by upregulating the expression of caspase-14, claudin-1, and claudin-4. It also promotes the synthesis of the antiinflammatory cytokine IL-37 and downregulates the expression of proallergic cytokine IL-33 in keratinocytes. In addition, GFF downregulates the expression of the CXCL14 and IL6R genes, which are involved in inflammaging. These beneficial properties might underpin the potent barrier-protecting and anti-inflammaging effects of GFF-containing skin formulae.

Protective Effects and Molecular Mechanism of Total Flavonoids from Lycium Barbarum Leaves on Photoaged Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Objective

To investigate the effects and corresponding mechanisms of total flavonoids (TFL) from Lycium barbarum leaves on photoaged human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs).

Methods

Crude TFL was extracted with 70% ethanol, and a Rutin standard curve was drawn using the sodium nitrite-aluminum nitrate-sodium hydroxide colorimetry method to calculate its yield and mass concentration. After that, the photoaging HDFs model was established by UVA combined with 8-MOP. CCK-8 was performed to assess the influence of TFL on the proliferation of HDFs and photoaging HDFs. β-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) staining and activity assays were performed to evaluate the activity of SA-β-gal and the rate of SA-β-gal-positive cells in HDFs cells. The level of skin ECM proteins and oxidative stress-related substances in HDFs cells of each group was determined by ELISA and biochemical detection, respectively. Apoptosis of HDFs in each group was assessed by flow cytometry. The expressions of MAPK signaling pathway-related proteins in HDFs were detected by western blot.

Results

The yield rate of TFL extracted by 70% ethanol was 41.9%, and its purity rate was 34.6%. TFL at 25, 50, and 100 μg/mL was able to greatly promote the proliferation of HDFs. A photoaged HDFs model was successfully constructed by combining UVA irradiation at 9 J/cm2 and 8-MOP at 50 mg/L. TFL treatment could significantly inhibit apoptosis, SA-β-gal-positive cell staining rate, SA-β-gal activity, lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) leakage, and malondialdehyde (MDA) content in photoaged HDFs. Further, TFL increased the proliferative activity, superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity, catalase (CAT) activity, type I collagen (Col I), hydroxyproline (HYP), and hyaluronic acid (HA) level of photoaged HDFs in a dose-dependent manner. Additional experiments suggested that TFL played a protective role by downregulating MAPK signaling pathway activity in photoaged HDFs cells.

Conclusion

TFL could inhibit oxidative stress and apoptosis, promote cell proliferation and the level of ECM-related component proteins, and participate in antiphotoaging in a concentration-dependent manner. The protective role of TFL in photoaged HDFs might be related to its inhibition of MAPK signaling pathways.

Recent advances in lignosulfonate filled hydrogel for flexible wearable electronics: A mini review

With the rapid development of flexible wearable devices, various polymer hydrogels have gained immense progress due to their adjustable mechanical properties, high conductivity, super sensitivity, good biocompatibility and adaptable wearability. Lignosulfonate (LS), generating from the sulfite pulping industry, was emerged as a promising filler in polymer hydrogels with great potential for multifunctional wearable electronics. Herein, we comprehensively review the latest research progress associated with LS-based hydrogels. Firstly, the function mechanism of lignosulfonate in diverse polymer hydrogels was introduced in detail. Then, the rational design strategies of LS filled multifunctional hydrogels was summarized as toughening filler, adhesive agent, conductive filler dispersant, UV protectant and catalysts. Finally, the future development of LS filled hydrogel for flexible wearable electronics was proposed.

Role of Phytochemicals in Skin Photoprotection via Regulation of Nrf2

Ethnopharmacological studies have become increasingly valuable in the development of botanical products and their bioactive phytochemicals as novel and effective preventive and therapeutic strategies for various diseases including skin photoaging and photodamage-related skin problems including abnormal pigmentation and inflammation. Exploring the roles of phytochemicals in mitigating ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced skin damage is thus of importance to offer insights into medicinal and ethnopharmacological potential for development of novel and effective photoprotective agents. UVR plays a role in the skin premature aging (or photoaging) or impaired skin integrity and function through triggering various biological responses of skin cells including apoptosis, oxidative stress, DNA damage and inflammation. In addition, melanin produced by epidermal melanocytes play a protective role against UVR-induced skin damage and therefore hyperpigmentation mediated by UV irradiation could reflect a sign of defensive response of the skin to stress. However, alteration in melanin synthesis may be implicated in skin damage, particularly in individuals with fair skin. Oxidative stress induced by UVR contributes to the process of skin aging and inflammation through the activation of related signaling pathways such as the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein-1 (AP-1), the phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K)/protein kinase B (Akt), the nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) and the signal transducer and activator of transcription (STAT) in epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts. ROS formation induced by UVR also plays a role in regulation of melanogenesis in melanocytes via modulating MAPK, PI3K/Akt and the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R)-microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) signaling cascades. Additionally, nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)-regulated antioxidant defenses can affect the major signaling pathways involved in regulation of photoaging, inflammation associated with skin barrier dysfunction and melanogenesis. This review thus highlights the roles of phytochemicals potentially acting as Nrf2 inducers in improving photoaging, inflammation and hyperpigmentation via regulation of cellular homeostasis involved in skin integrity and function. Taken together, understanding the role of phytochemicals targeting Nrf2 in photoprotection could provide an insight into potential development of natural products as a promising strategy to delay skin photoaging and improve skin conditions.

Antioxidant Effects of Korean Propolis in HaCaT Keratinocytes Exposed to Particulate Matter 10

Air pollution causes oxidative stress that leads to inflammatory diseases and premature aging of the skin. The purpose of this study was to examine the antioxidant effect of Korean propolis on oxidative stress in human epidermal HaCaT keratinocytes exposed to particulate matter with a diameter of less than 10 μm (PM₁₀). The total ethanol extract of propolis was solvent-fractionated with water and methylene chloride to divide into a hydrophilic fraction and a lipophilic fraction. The lipophilic fraction of propolis was slightly more cytotoxic, and the hydrophilic fraction was much less cytotoxic than the total extract. The hydrophilic fraction did not affect the viability of cells exposed to PM₁₀, but the total propolis extract and the lipophilic fraction aggravated the toxicity of PM₁₀. The total extract and hydrophilic fraction inhibited PM₁₀-induced ROS production and lipid peroxidation in a concentration-dependent manner, whereas the lipophilic fraction did not show such effects. High-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (HPLC-DAD) analysis showed that the hydrophilic fraction contained phenylpropanoids, such as caffeic acid, p-coumaric acid, and ferulic acid, whereas the lipophilic faction contained caffeic acid phenethyl ester (CAPE). The former three compounds inhibited PM₁₀-induced ROS production, lipid peroxidation, and/or glutathione oxidation, and ferulic acid was the most effective among them, but CAPE exhibited cytotoxicity and aggravated the toxicity of PM₁₀. This study suggests that Korean propolis, when properly purified, has the potential to be used as a cosmetic material that helps to alleviate the skin toxicity of air pollutants.

Melissa officinalis: Composition, Pharmacological Effects and Derived Release Systems-A Review

Melissa officinalis is a medicinal plant rich in biologically active compounds which is used worldwide for its therapeutic effects. Chemical studies on its composition have shown that it contains mainly flavonoids, terpenoids, phenolic acids, tannins, and essential oil. The main active constituents of Melissa officinalis are volatile compounds (geranial, neral, citronellal and geraniol), triterpenes (ursolic acid and oleanolic acid), phenolic acids (rosmarinic acid, caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid), and flavonoids (quercetin, rhamnocitrin, and luteolin). According to the biological studies, the essential oil and extracts of Melissa officinalis have active compounds that determine many pharmacological effects with potential medical uses. A new field of research has led to the development of controlled release systems with active substances from plants. Therefore, the essential oil or extract of Melissa officinalis has become a major target to be incorporated into various controlled release systems which allow a sustained delivery.

Metabolic Basis and Clinical Evidence for Skin Lightening Effects of Thiol Compounds

Melanin pigment is a major factor in determining the color of the skin, and its abnormal increase or decrease can cause serious pigmentation disorders. The melanin pigment of the skin is divided into light pheomelanin and dark eumelanin, and a big difference between them is whether they contain sulfur. Melanin synthesis starts from a common reaction in which tyrosine or dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) is oxidized by tyrosinase (TYR) to produce dopaquinone (DQ). DQ is spontaneously converted to leukodopachrome and then oxidized to dopachrome, which enters the eumelanin synthesis pathway. When DQ reacts with cysteine, cysteinyl dopa is generated, which is oxidized to cysteinyl DQ and enters the pheomelanin synthesis pathway. Therefore, thiol compounds can influence the relative synthesis of eumelanin and pheomelanin. In addition, thiol compounds can inhibit enzymatic activity by binding to copper ions at the active site of TYR, and act as an antioxidant scavenging reactive oxygen species and free radicals or as a modulator of redox balance, thereby inhibiting overall melanin synthesis. This review will cover the metabolic aspects of thiol compounds, the role of thiol compounds in melanin synthesis, comparison of the antimelanogenic effects of various thiol compounds, and clinical trials on the skin lightening efficacy of thiol compounds. We hope that this review will help identify the advantages and disadvantages of various thiol compounds as modulators of skin pigmentation and contribute to the development of safer and more effective strategies for the treatment of pigmentation disorders.

Elucidating the photoprotective properties of natural UV screening agents: ZEKE-PFI spectroscopy of methyl sinapate

As a prominent derivative of a natural sunscreen, methyl sinapate is an ideal candidate to provide fundamental insight into strategies on how to come to a rational design of artificial sunscreen filters with improved photoprotective properties. Here, static and time-resolved Zero Kinetic Energy-Pulsed Field Ionization (ZEKE-PFI) photoelectron spectroscopy has been used to study the spectroscopy and decay pathways of its electronically excited states. We find that different conformers are subject to distinct structural changes upon electronic excitation, and trace the structural changes that occur upon excitation back to the character of the LUMO. Ionization efficiency spectra in combination with pump-probe ZEKE-PFI spectra are consistent with the conclusion that the long-lived electronically excited state observed in the decay of the lowest excited singlet state is the lowest excited triplet state. Concurrently with providing information on the electronically excited states, the studies allow for a detailed characterization of the spectroscopic properties of the ground state of the radical ion, which is important in the context of the use of cinnamates in nature as antioxidants. Our studies determine the adiabatic ionization energies of the syn/cis, anti/cis and anti/trans conformers as 60 291.1 ± 0.5, 60 366.9 ± 0.5 and 60 503.9 ± 1.0 cm^-1, respectively, and provide accurate vibrational fequencies of low-frequency modes of the molecular ion in its electronic ground state. Finally, the studies emphasize the important role of vibrational and electronic autoionization processes that start to dominate the ionization dynamics in non-rigid molecules of the present size.

Anti-Aging Effects of Terminalia bellirica, Phyllanthus emblica, Triphala, and Carica papaya Extracts for Sustainable Youth

As the human lifespan becomes longer, many people invest time and money in managing external beauty. However, managing external beauty has the disadvantage of causing side effects or that the effect does not last. Therefore, research and development are required to maximize effectiveness, eco-friendliness, and sustainably in beauty management. The purpose of this study was to experimentally identify the anti-aging effects, such as skin wrinkle and elasticity improvement, of extracts from Bahera, Phyllanthus emblica, Triphala, and Carica papaya, and to confirm their development as whitening and wrinkle functional cosmetic materials. In this study, a solid mixture was prepared using eco-friendly Terminalia bellirica, amla (Phyllanthus emblica), Triphala, and Carica papaya, and experimental samples were extracted. Antioxidant tests, antibacterial activity tests, polyphenol and flavonoid content, and deodorization tests were conducted to test the efficacy of experimental samples. The procedures and methods of these experiments are summarized in the following article. In this study, we found that the Bahera, Phyllanthus emblica, Triphala, and Carica papaya extracts had significant effects on whitening and wrinkle improvement, and that the effects of using ethanol-based extracts as the co-solvent were even greater. In other words, extracts of Bahera, Phyllanthus emblica, Triphala and Carica papaya showed antioxidant, whitening, and anti-wrinkle effects, and extracts that used ethanol as a co-solvent showed greater effects. In particular, we found that the optimal concentration of ethanol as a co-solvent maximizes its effectiveness at 70%.

Flavonoid Nobiletin Exhibits Differential Effects on Cell Viability in Keratinocytes Exposed to UVA versus UVB Radiation

The polymethoxylated flavonoid nobiletin has been shown to suppress inflammatory responses to UVB radiation and to enhance circadian rhythms. Because expression of the core nucleotide excision repair (NER) factor XPA and the rate of removal of UV photoproducts from DNA are regulated by the circadian clock, we investigated whether the beneficial effects of nobiletin in UVB-exposed cells could be due in part to enhanced NER. Although nobiletin limited UVB-irradiated human keratinocytes from undergoing cell death, we found that this enhanced survival was not associated with increased NER or XPA expression. Instead, nobiletin reduced initial UV photoproduct formation and promoted a G1 cell cycle arrest. We then examined the implications of this findings for exposures to solar radiation through use of a solar simulated light (SSL) source that contains primarily UVA radiation. In striking contrast to the results obtained with UVB radiation, nobiletin instead sensitized keratinocytes to both the SSL and a more defined UVA radiation source. This enhanced cell death was correlated with a photochemical change in nobiletin absorption spectrum and the production of reactive oxygen species. We conclude that nobiletin is unlikely to be a useful compound for protecting keratinocytes against the harmful effects of solar UV radiation.

Sustainable and efficient protocols for in vitro germination and antioxidants production from seeds of the endangered species Araucaria araucana

Background

The Pehuén or Monkey puzzle tree (Araucaria araucana) is an evergreen coniferous tree, which has been historically used for social, medicinal, and nutritional purposes. We have recently showed the value of A. araucana seeds as a rich source of micronutrients and antioxidants. This endemic species present in a reduced area in Argentina and Chile is endangered because of the low germination rate and the overexploitation of its edible seeds. Thus, the massive extraction of its seeds is ecologically non-viable resulting in limited availability of its active metabolites. However, biotechnological approaches are attractive strategies of production of valuable metabolites and healthy specimens of endangered plants. The aim of this work was to develop a protocol for in vitro production of antioxidants derived from A. araucana seeds and to obtain healthy plants by optimized seed germination.

Results

Calli of Pehuén seeds were induced in Murashige and Skoog medium with different combinations of auxins and cytokinins, in light and dark conditions. Callus from embryonic axes developed in medium with 1 mg/l α-naphthaleneacetic acid and 1.5 mg/l 6-benzylaminopurine in light conditions had efficient biomass production, antioxidant activity, high phenolic, and flavonoid content and no cytotoxicity on mammalian cells. Additionally, 100 % germination was obtained in vitro and healthy plants were acclimatized to non-sterile conditions.

Conclusion

In conclusion, in vitro culture of A. araucana could provide new and sustainable options for production of its valuable metabolites with possible therapeutic and nutritional uses. Also, optimized plant germination and acclimatization of endangered species can contribute to the preservation of pristine environments.

Siegesbeckiae Herba Extract and Chlorogenic Acid Ameliorate the Death of HaCaT Keratinocytes Exposed to Airborne Particulate Matter by Mitigating Oxidative Stress

Airborne particulate matter with a size of 10 μm or less (PM₁₀) can cause oxidative damages and inflammatory reactions in the skin. This study was conducted to discover natural products that are potentially useful in protecting the skin from PM₁₀. Among the hot water extracts of a total of 23 medicinal plants, Siegesbeckiae Herba extract (SHE), which showed the strongest protective effect against PM₁₀ cytotoxicity, was selected, and its mechanism of action and active constituents were explored. SHE ameliorated PM₁₀-induced cell death, lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) release, lipid peroxidation, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in HaCaT cells. SHE decreased the expression of KEAP1, a negative regulator of NRF2, and increased the expression of NRF2 target genes, such as HMOX1 and NQO1. SHE selectively induced the enzymes involved in the synthesis of GSH (GCL-c and GCL-m), the regeneration of GSH (GSR and G6PDH), and GSH conjugation of xenobiotics (GSTκ1), rather than the enzymes that directly scavenge ROS (SOD1, CAT, and GPX1). SHE increased the cellular content of GSH and mitigated the oxidation of GSH to GSSG caused by PM₁₀ exposure. Of the solvent fractions of SHE, the n-butyl alcohol (BA) fraction ameliorated cell death in both the absence and presence of PM₁₀. The BA fraction contained a high amount of chlorogenic acid. Chlorogenic acid reduced PM₁₀-induced cell death, LDH release, and ROS production. This study suggests that SHE protects cells from PM₁₀ toxicity by increasing the cellular antioxidant capacity and that chlorogenic acid may be an active phytochemical of SHE.

Tropical Fruits and Their Co-Products as Bioactive Compounds and Their Health Effects: A Review

Tropical and subtropical fruits are recognized as a source of a high content of bioactive compounds and health promoting properties due to their nutritional composition. These beneficial health effects are related to the content of several of these bioactive compounds, mainly flavonoids and non-flavonoid phenolics. Many of these compounds are common in different tropical fruits, such as epicatechin in mango, pineapple, and banana, or catechin in pineapple, cocoa or avocado. Many studies of tropical fruits had been carried out, but in this work an examination is made in the current literature of the flavonoids and non-flavonoid phenolics content of some tropical fruits and their coproducts, comparing the content in the same units, as well as examining the role that these compounds play in health benefits.

Arbutin as a Skin Depigmenting Agent with Antimelanogenic and Antioxidant Properties

Arbutin is a compound of hydroquinone and D-glucose, and it has been over 30 years since there have been serious studies on the skin lightening action of this substance. In the meantime, there have been debates and validation studies about the mechanism of action of this substance as well as its skin lightening efficacy and safety. Several analogs or derivatives of arbutin have been developed and studied for their melanin synthesis inhibitory action. Formulations have been developed to improve the stability, transdermal delivery, and release of arbutin, and device usage to promote skin absorption has been developed. Substances that inhibit melanin synthesis synergistically with arbutin have been explored. The skin lightening efficacy of arbutin alone or in combination with other active ingredients has been clinically evaluated. Combined therapy with arbutin and laser could give enhanced depigmenting efficacy. The use of arbutin causes dermatitis rarely, and caution is recommended for the use of arbutin-containing products, especially from the viewpoint that hydroquinone may be generated during product use. Studies on the antioxidant properties of arbutin are emerging, and these antioxidant properties are proposed to contribute to the skin depigmenting action of arbutin. It is hoped that this review will help to understand the pros and cons of arbutin as a cosmetic ingredient, and will lead to future research directions for developing advanced skin lightening and protecting cosmetic products.

Lignin Nanoparticles and Their Nanocomposites

Lignin nanomaterials have emerged as a promising alternative to fossil-based chemicals and products for some potential added-value applications, which benefits from their structural diversity and biodegradability. This review elucidates a perspective in recent research on nanolignins and their nanocomposites. It summarizes the different nanolignin preparation methods, emphasizing anti-solvent precipitation, self-assembly and interfacial crosslinking. Also described are the preparation of various nanocomposites by the chemical modification of nanolignin and compounds with inorganic materials or polymers. Additionally, advances in numerous potential high-value applications, such as use in food packaging, biomedical, chemical engineering and biorefineries, are described.

Functional polysaccharide-based film prepared from chitosan and β-acids: Structural, physicochemical, and bioactive properties

β-Acids are natural antibacterial and antioxidant ingredients, obtained from supercritical CO₂ hop extract. In this study, β-acids/chitosan complex films were prepared using the casting method. Complex films were characterized using scanning electron microscopy (SEM), atomic force microscope (AFM), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and X-ray diffraction analysis (XRD). Structure analysis revealed that β-acids can be successfully combined with the chitosan matrix. Mechanical tests demonstrated that the tensile strength of the films showed a significant upward trend (1.9 MPa to 9.6 MPa) with increase in β-acids content (0.1%-0.3%). Interestingly, the chitosan-based films showed excellent UV barrier capability below 400 nm. The release of β-acids from the film followed Fickian diffusion (n < 0.45). In addition, the complex films inhibited the growth of five food-borne pathogens (Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus subtilis, Salmonella enteritidis and Listeria monocytogenes). This study highlights the promising nature of composite film as a desirable alternative for active packaging.

Promelanogenic Effects by an Annurca Apple-Based Natural Formulation in Human Primary Melanocytes

Introduction

Melanocytes are engaged in synthesis, transport, and release of pigments at the epidermal-melanin units in response to the finely regulated melanogenic pathway. A multifaceted combination of both intrinsic and extrinsic factors – from endocrine and paracrine dynamics to exogenous stimuli such as sunlight and xenobiotics – modulates expression and activity of proteins involved in pigmentation, including the rate-limiting enzyme tyrosinase. As well as playing critical physiological functions comprising skin photoprotection, melanins define hair and skin pigmentation which in turn have impacted considerably to human social communication since time immemorial. Additionally, numerous skin diseases based on pigmentation alterations can have serious public influence. While several melanogenesis inhibitors are already available, the number of melanin activators and tyrosinase stimulators as drug-like agents is still limited.

Methods

To explore the biological effects of an Annurca Apple-based nutraceutical preparation (AMS) on melanin production, experiments in cellular models of human skin were performed. Both primary cultures and co-cultures of epidermal melanocytes (HEMa) and follicular keratinocytes (HHFK) were used.

Results

We show that AMS, by now branded for its cutaneous beneficial effects, induces in total biocompatibility a significant promelanogenic effect in human primary melanocytes. In line, we found melanin cytosolic accumulation consistent with tyrosinase up-regulation.

Conclusion

Disposal of skin pigmenting agents would be attractive for the treatment of hypopigmentation disorders, to postpone skin photoaging or simply for fashion, so that discovery and development of melanogenesis stimulators, especially from natural sources, is nowadays a dynamic area of research.

Improvement of Ferulic Acid Antioxidant Activity by Multiple Emulsions: In Vitro and In Vivo Evaluation

Ferulic acid is a derivative of cinnamic acid showing efficacious anti-oxidant activity. It catalyzes the stable phenoxy radical formation, upon absorption of ultraviolet light, giving the strength to ferulic acid for terminating free radical chain reactions. Ultraviolet rays are one of the most dangerous factors that daily assault the skin, causing excessive generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are regarded to be important contributors to a variety of cutaneous alterations. The skin possesses endogenous antioxidant defense systems, but the excess of ROS leads to an oxidant–antioxidant imbalance. Although ferulic acid is daily introduced in human organism with the diet, its bioavailability after oral administration is poor, particularly in the skin. The aim of this investigation was to evaluate three types of emulsions (W/O/W multiple emulsions and two simple emulsions) as suitable formulations for topical application of the active compound. In vitro studies were performed to investigate the stability and release profiles of these systems. Multiple emulsions showed great stability and the best ability to carry and release ferulic acid. In vivo evaluations highlighted their best capability to treat UV-B-induced erythema. These findings suggested multiple emulsions as an innovative and more efficient vehicle for topical application of ferulic acid.

Medical Plaster Enhancement by Coating with Cistus L. Extracts within a Chitosan Matrix: From Natural Complexity to Health Care Simplicity

Our investigation was focused on the preparation and characterization of novel plasters based on Carboxymethyl Chitosan derivative (CMC), to be used for the treatment of radiation dermatitis with Biologic Active Compounds (BACs) in a moist wound-healing environment. After performing the extraction and characterization of BACs from Cistus L., we optimized the BACs/CMC solution for subsequent plaster preparation. Then, plasters were prepared by dip-coating with a different number of layers, and we characterized them by Environmental Scanning Electron Microscopy (ESEM), Contact Angle (CA) and release tests in water for 24 h. Taking into account the flexibility of the plasters and the amount of released BACs after 24 h, the sample obtained after two dip-coating steps (2La) appeared promising in regard to comfortable mechanical properties and active principles administration. The 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) test performed on keratinocytes cultured in standard medium shows that cells treated with released extract from 2La start to proliferate, extend cellular viability and form colonies typical for epidermal cells.

Pehuén (Araucaria araucana) seed residues are a valuable source of natural antioxidants with nutraceutical, chemoprotective and metal corrosion-inhibiting properties

In the last decade, green chemistry has been attracting great interest in many contexts, including, among others, natural antioxidants. However, only a few works deal with natural residue extracts and biowaste, which could be an efficient, economical and environmentally friendly source for the production of useful compounds. In this study, we look for antioxidant activity in Araucaria araucana seeds, an iconic pine species of the Argentine and Chilean Patagonia commonly known as "pehuén". Piñones are the edible pehuén seeds, and it is estimated that approximately 40 tons of piñones are harvested annually in Argentina and Chile. The chemical composition, antioxidants, metal corrosion-inhibiting properties and biological activity of edible and discarded piñón tissues were determined. Acute toxicity was discarded by in vitro testing and double fluorescent staining. Biological activity was evaluated in vivo by determining redox markers in salivary glands from rats treated with Cyclophosphamide (an oncological drug). All piñón tissues had antioxidants and antioxidant activity, with the coats showing the highest levels (up to 404 µg ascorbic acid equivalent per mg). The coats, in particular, had high gallic acid, catechin, quercetin and tannin contents, and more antioxidant activity, polyphenols and flavonoids than berries from the region. Results by X-ray fluorescence spectrometry showed that Na, Mg, P, S, Cl, K, and Ca were majority elements in the coat, embryo and endosperm. Furthermore, coat extract also showed significant anti-corrosion activity and in vivo protection against oxidative damage. The results indicate that piñón biowaste is a low-cost attractive source of natural antioxidants with potential nutraceutical, medical and metal corrosion protection applications.

Up- or Downregulation of Melanin Synthesis Using Amino Acids, Peptides, and Their Analogs

Harmonious synthesis and distribution of melanin in the skin contribute to the expression of beauty and the maintenance of health. When skin pigmentary disorders occur because of internal or external factors or, when there is a need to artificially increase or reduce the pigmentation level of the skin for aesthetic or therapeutic purposes, various pharmacological therapies are applied but the results are not always satisfactory. Studies have been conducted to improve the efficacy and safety of these treatment strategies. In this review, we present the latest studies regarding peptides and related compounds that may be useful in artificially increasing or reducing skin melanin levels. Certain analogs of α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH) and oligopeptides with the sequences derived from the hormone were shown to promote melanin synthesis in cells and in vivo models. Various amino acids, peptides, their analogs, and their hybrid compounds with other chemical moieties were shown to inhibit tyrosinase (TYR) catalytic activity or downregulate TYR gene expression. Certain peptides were shown to inhibit melanosome biogenesis or induce autophagy, leading to decreased pigmentation. In vivo and clinical evidence are available for some compounds, including [Nle⁴-_D-Phe⁷]-α-MSH, glutathione disulfide, and glycinamide hydrochloride. For many other compounds, additional studies are required to verify their efficacy and safety in vivo and in clinical trials. The accumulating information regarding pro- and antimelanogenic activity of peptides and related compounds will lead to the development of novel drugs for the treatment of skin pigmentary disorders.

Natural Nrf2 Modulators for Skin Protection

Since the discovery of antioxidant responsive elements (ARE), which are commonly found in the promoter of the Phase II metabolism/antioxidant enzymes, and nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), the transcription factor that binds to ARE, the study conducted in this field has expanded remarkably over the decades, and the Nrf2-mediated pathway is now recognized to occupy a central position in cell defense mechanisms. Induction of the Phase II metabolism/antioxidant enzymes through direct activation of Nrf2 can be a promising strategy for preventing degenerative diseases in general, but a dark side of this strategy should be considered, as Nrf2 activation can enhance the survival of cancer cells. In this review, we discuss the historical discovery of Nrf2 and the regulatory mechanism of the Nrf2-mediated pathway, focusing on the interacting proteins and post-translational modifications. In addition, we discuss the latest studies that examined various natural Nrf2 modulators for the protective roles in the skin, in consideration of their dermatological and cosmetic applications. Studies are reviewed in the order of time of research as much as possible, to help understand how and why such studies were conducted under the circumstances of that time. We hope that this review can serve as a steppingstone in conducting more advanced research by providing a scientific basis for researchers newly entering this field.